05 Jun 2025

Matsue’s Mountain Gods and Art Gardens

Heritage Adventurer was warmly welcomed into the port of Sakaiminato after a leisurely, sunny morning at sea and we were ready to discover the highlights of the region.

We ventured up Mount Daisen to explore its sacred temples and serene mountain trails. Known as the ‘Mountain of the Great God’, Daisen has been a revered site of worship since the 8th century.

Halfway up the mountain sits Daisenji Temple, founded in 718 AD by the ascetic Koren Shonin. Over the centuries, it evolved into a prominent Buddhist centre, protected by powerful clans during the turbulent Sengoku period. Although it appeared boarded up and abandoned, our guide explained that it only opens when a monk is in residence — something that happens less frequently than at more accessible locations.

Higher still stands Ōgamiyama Shrine, a peaceful sanctuary devoted to the mountain deity, nestled among towering cedars at the top of ancient stone steps. The path leading to the shrine is paved with large, uneven stones and flanked by narrow channels where water gently trickles down from the mountainside. Several hikers passed us on their descent from the summit, carrying trekking poles and large packs. This park offers a perfect setting for ‘forest bathing’, the Japanese practice of immersing oneself in nature to relax and recharge.

At the Adachi Museum of Art, we were left speechless by the impeccably laid out and manicured garden. A garden set aside purely for viewing, it is experienced by viewing from outdoor corridors and enormous windows at the museum. This design truly showcased how Japanese-style gardens are a work of art in themselves, with the views changing dramatically depending on the perspective of viewing. Inside, we contemplated the exceptional collection of Yokoyama Taikan’s art, the father of the Nihonga art movement in Japan.

At Yuushien Garden, we enjoyed a gorgeous, and unexpected, feast of seafood and vegetarian sushi and nigiri, hot tea, and fruit jelly. Afterwards, we strolled through the exquisite gardens, which at this time of year boast over 250 varieties of peonies. The elegantly designed rocky hardscape, softened by beds of moss and ferns, was enhanced as the garden’s misters emitted water vapour to keep plants in top condition.

Images © C. Perry, Heritage Expeditions