03 Jun 2025

Hanging Out in Hagi

Today, we explored the charming town of Hagi, a former castle town renowned for its traditional pottery craftsmanship and historic samurai residences.

On a rainy morning, we explored Yamaguchi prefectures Akiyoshido Cave, one of the largest in Japan with its perfect stalactites and stalagmites thousands of years in the making – most towering above us as we followed the path along the water cut cave. Reaching the outer end, we tried some of the 130 flavours of ice cream including Karst, wasabi and coal flavours!

After lunch, where some opted to stay ashore and have lunch at the local fish market; we headed to the ruins of Hagi castle for a wander and a look at the local pottery shops.

Later in the afternoon we wandered around Hagi’s samurai quarter looking at the samurai residences and more pottery shops, along with trying the local summer oranges.

At the Hagi Castle Ruins in Shizuki Park, we stood by the moat in the rain, imagining the grandeur that once was. The castle was dismantled in the late 19th Century, following the Meiji government's efforts to abolish the feudal system during the Meiji Restoration. Today, stone steps, crumbling walls, and solemn statues are all that remain—silent echoes of a bygone era.

At Tokoji Temple, we were transported back in time to a peaceful Buddhist sanctuary built by the Mori clan in 1691 during the Edo period. Classic Japanese architectural elements surrounded us — massive red wooden gates, stone statues and lanterns, wooden buildings, and tiled roofs. Dozens of moss-covered stone lanterns lined the path to the burial grounds of five Mori Lords.

Lunch featured an impressive traditional Japanese spread of local delicacies, each beautifully presented in handcrafted ceramic dishes and bowls. Many of us sampled the famous fugu (puffer fish), expertly prepared for the perfect taste and safety, including deep-fried fugu with vegetables, sashimi, and fugu fish ball soup.

In the Hagi Samurai Quarter, we savoured refreshing kabosu citrus and ice cream cones, and explored numerous pottery shops showcasing the distinctive ceramics Hagi is famous for – simple, slightly rustic and elegant.

We ended our day with a memorable visit to Hagiyaki Shiryokan, a charming family-owned pottery studio steeped in tradition. As we wandered through the open-air kilns and carefully curated museum, we were immersed in the rich legacy of Hagi-yaki ceramics. A highlight of the visit was a live demonstration by the founder’s grandson, accompanied by two master potters. Before leaving, we eagerly browsed the studio shop and filled our backpacks with beautifully handcrafted Hagi-yaki treasures to take home!

Images © C. Perry & G. Payne, Heritage Expeditions