04 Jun 2025

A Day in South Korea

After crossing the Korea Strait overnight, we arrived in the industrial powerhouse of Ulsan, South Korea, early in the morning. A total contrast to the small ports we have visited recently in Japan, we were awestruck by the scale and logistics on display with thousands of new Hyundai vehicles ready on the docks for shipping. We had two locations to explore today – either north, to the historical sites of Gyeongju, or south to the bustling city of Busan. With full sun and 28°C forecast, we were ready to don our hats and explore what South Korea has to offer. 

Our journey north of Ulsan began in Gyeongju with a special visit to Bulguksa Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temple’s intricate wooden reliefs and vivid colours were stunning. Rows upon rows of lanterns — each a paper wish for someone’s future — swayed gently in the breeze. We were fortunate to witness a monk in deep meditation, his stillness accompanied by the soft, rhythmic beat of temple percussion. At the Ulsan Museum, our local guide walked us through a fascinating collection of Korea’s national treasures. Among the highlights: an enormous ceremonial bell that once echoed through ancient temples, exquisitely crafted gold crowns worn by royalty, and delicate ceramics that spoke volumes about daily life in centuries past.

We walked off our lunch by visiting a royal burial mound near Ulsan in Gyeongju’s Tumuli Park, where we entered an excavated tomb from the Silla Kingdom. Inside, we saw replicas of ancient treasures like gold crowns and artifacts, offering a glimpse into Korea’s royal past.

This was followed by a peaceful stroll through the Taehwagang Bamboo Forest — a tranquil ecological park spanning over 200 acres, with nearly 4 kilometres of gardens and walking paths enjoyed by locals. Due to limited space in urban areas, this lush green haven was purposefully developed along the Taehwagang River to reconnect the city with nature. We strolled through towering bamboo (which is actually a grass!), wandered past fields of chrysanthemums, and paused by a large fountain and pond, where ducks and swans were swimming and bathing in the spray.

In Busan, we made our way to Haedong Yonggungsa Temple. A modern temple, with most of the building work completed since the 1930s, the elegant and colourful architecture perched on the rocky coastline made for a beautiful stroll. For a taste of Busan from above, we raced up in a high-speed elevator to the 100^th floor of X the Sky building, towering over the city at 411 metres high. Panoramic views of the city and coast (even from the bathrooms!), a glass floor, and a pop-up art exhibition gave us an experience of South Korean urban modernity.

The colourful small buildings of the Gamcheon Culture Village, nestled into a steep hillside, were our next stop for the afternoon. Beginning life as a shanty town for refugees of the Korean War, seeking refuge in Busan, the area has found new life following a revitalisation in the early 2000s. We delved into the history of Gamcheon in the Little Museum, then the winding alleyways and secret staircases let us explore the art installations. Still used as a residential area, many of the vendors and artisans live above their shops, making for a vibrant melding of everyday life and popular shopping.

South Korea’s seafood scene was on show at Jagalchi Market. A wet market used by locals and visitors alike, you can select from a dazzling array of seafood and have it prepared for you in restaurants upstairs. In the late afternoon, we all reconvened at the port to board Heritage Adventurer and sail back across the strait to resume our journey in Japan.

Images © C. Perry & S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions