24 Jun 2025

A fantastic adventure in the Spice Islands

The day started on a high as we passed the tiny Run Island where we saw one of the first colonies of the British Empire and the much fought over nutmeg trees in the Banda Islands.

These are the fabled Spice Islands that led to so much conflict in the 17th and 18th Century as Holland, Spain, Portugal and England all attempted to monopolize the trade of spices found here.

Our first visit was to Naira Island, seeing Banda Api that erupted in 1988. We were able to snorkel amongst the remarkable coral gardens that had grown back in 37 years on the lava flows. Many rated it as their favourite snorkel, with plenty of colourful fish, anemones, corals and the warm water with thermoclines making it exceptional.

After a fabulous BBQ on board Heritage Adventurer, we were greeted by a fleet of Kora-Kora boats for our welcome ashore at Banda Neira.

We enjoyed traditional dance and music played on the Bonang, a Javanese Gamelan instrument. Afterwards the local guides helped us explore this remarkable town that was once the centre of the Dutch East Indies empire. We saw the Governors house built in 1633 and the two forts that protected the islands from attack, the local museum and church. 

Finally, we were shown through the nutmeg and cinnamon orchards and were able to purchase their fresh products. 

Images © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions