01 Jun 2025

Potatoes or Pearls – the Uwajima Dilemma

This morning, we arrived on the tranquil shores of Shikoku Island, docking in the quiet port town of Uwajima. Unlike the polished cruise destinations along Japan’s more frequented routes, Uwajima is off the radar — a hidden gem, rarely visited by tourists. Today we had a difficult choice – pearls, or potatoes?

For some, the journey took us high into the hills above the bay, where we visited a remarkable potato farm carved into the steep, rocky landscape. The terraced fields, stacked like ancient steps, evoke the dramatic agricultural sites of the Inca highlands in Peru. This cooperative farm, owned by 30 local families, produces an impressive 50–60 tonnes of potatoes each year.

The stone walls supporting these terraces were laid by hand over 130 years ago — without a drop of mortar. This ingenious dry-stone technique allows rainwater to drain naturally, preventing the erosion that once plagued the area. Before these walls were built, the terraces had to be rebuilt after every major storm. At the summit, we discovered a quiet cemetery, where the oldest grave dates back nearly 400 years.

Next up we headed to Nanrakuen Garden, the largest Japanese garden in Shikoku. Winding walkways led us around large ponds and a breathtaking display of thousands of irises, bonsai shrubs and trees, azaleas, and hydrangeas. A dynamic live music duo entertained onlookers in one corner of the park.

Others enjoyed a scenic ride along the coast towards the Doi Pearl Farm, where techniques of growing and harvesting Akoya pearl oysters have been perfected since the Meiji period. After our pearl experience, we headed to Tenshaen Garden to enjoy the seasonal magic of blooming irises and the exceptionally rare sight of flowering bamboo.

Everyone on board concluded their morning trips with an ascent to Uwajima Castle, one of only 12 original castles in Japan. Our journey mirrored that of past adversaries, as we navigated the rugged, uneven stone steps winding through the lush forest. At the summit, the three-tiered tenshu stood proudly, its wooden interior housing artifacts from the feudal era and providing panoramic views of the city below.

Adventurous hikers spent the afternoon in Yakushidani Gorge soaking up the dappled sunlight and river views. A spectacular waterfall was a picturesque focal point of the loop track before we descended back through the mossy forest to the port. After boarding Heritage Adventurer, we were graciously farewelled by the lovely locals of Uwajima and a troupe of taiko drummers as the sun set.

Images © C. Perry & M Darling, Heritage Expeditions