26 Apr 2025

In awe of the Crow Castle in Uno Ko – Or a day in Naoshima

Our Discover the Islands of Japan adventure continued as we arrived at Uno Ko (Uno Port), where we enjoyed breakfast in the morning sun. 

Our first destination was Okayama Castle and Koraku-en Garden. The all-black “Crow Castle”, set by the river, is an imposing structure. The stone ramparts, built in the late 16th century, and ports in the walls for dropping stone or firing guns, made us glad that we were not an invading army. The gold leaf on the ornaments and the blooming mountain azaleas completed the scene. Once inside, we climbed to the upper floors, appreciating the spectacular view and exploring the history displays.

Across the river was Koraku-en Garden, first established by the Daimyō (feudal lord) in the Edo Period. It is a “strolling garden” set around a large pond and consistently ranked as one of the top three gardens in Japan. It was easy to see why, with many quirky bridges, Koi and turtles in the pond, Wisteria dripping from the trellises, and many little nooks for quiet contemplation. The Koi streamers flying for the upcoming Children’s Day added another splash of colour. 

Next, we headed for the historic district of Kurashiki. Our first stop was at a local restaurant for a traditional bento box lunch. Then we joined locals for another stroll – along the canals lined with white-walled kura (storehouses). These had been repurposed into shops selling a variety of local arts and crafts – and tasty treats. We were lucky to see a bride dressed in her traditional kimono floating on one of the riverboats. The Ohara Museum of Art, Japan’s first museum to showcase Western masterpieces, attracted many of us.

As would be the theme on this voyage, we had multiple options to choose how to spend our day. Another group spent the day exploring the Former Nozaki Residence in the morning and the gardens of Buzaemon Nozaki, who built the ‘Salt Farm Kingdom’ in the late Edo period. Elegant tatami rooms, a private shrine and a stunning garden made the morning. 

After lunch on board, we took a ferry to the world-famous island Naoshima – a paradise for art lovers. Benesse House Museum and Chichu Art Museum, designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando, were a highlight of the visit. Returning to the ferry, we stopped at Yayoi Kusama’s captivating pumpkin sculpture to take an iconic picture.

After a fabulous day of exploration, we enjoyed the Captain’s Welcome Cocktails. 

Images © S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions