02 Sep 2017

SOE: Exploring Yttegran Island

So what might the last day of excursions deliver? We woke to a light breeze riffling the surface of Pengenkay Fjord. Clouds swept the snow-dusted peaks around us, and half a dozen gray and humpback whales fed lazily around the ship. Captain ordered the anchor weighed at 6 am and by breakfast time we were on our way out of the fjord then south to the waters west of Yttegran Island. Yes, we had been here before. On our trip north it was here that we had our best whale encounters. Was it possible that it could happen again?

From the bridge we could see several blows along the shorelines to the south. By the time Captain dropped anchor, it was clear that there were at least a dozen or so whales about. As the first few Zodiacs were loaded, a humpback began breaching in the distance. Over the next couple of hours, we were privy to an extraordinary display of breaching, fin slapping and tail fluke displays. In one Zodiac, one of our expeditioners, Nancy, jokingly asked when the occupants were going to get wet, so close were some of the displays. As if in response, one of the livelier humpbacks landed a breach just metres from the bow of Nancy’s Zodiac and yes, her wish was fulfilled.

After lunch we relocated to the south side of Yttegran Island, where we all went ashore. The long walkers followed Sarah on a fast-paced climb up to the summit of a 400-metre-plus peak, then down by another route. Kostya and Howard gave Chris and his medium walkers a ride around the southeast corner of the island to begin a one-way tundra walk past whalebones, Chukchi burials and exquisite tundra vegetation in full autumn colours. Near the original landing place, Tania and Suzi encouraged the short-walkers to not walk at all, but to simply flop down on the tundra, enjoy the serenity and gorge on the perfectly ripe crowberries that could be found everywhere.

By the time we returned to the ship, it seemed that everyone had had an individual experience, perfectly tailored to each one of us. It was a lovely way to bid goodbye to this remote and wondrous corner of the planet. Who could have imagined what lay in store when we boarded the ship in Anadyr nearly two weeks ago! One thing is certain, we will never forget the incredible experience we’ve had, the wildlife we’ve seen and the new friends we’ve made. And we’re not finished yet!