1578: Pacific Pelagic Odyssey 23 Apr 2015
Please Note: This is not the same itinerary as the Papua New Guinea Explorer but gives an insight into Papua New Guinea expeditioning.
Day 1 - Kokomo, Papua New Guinea
Thur April 23, 2015
S5°00’.1 E152°38’.4
Today we arrived at Kokopo, Papua New Guinea. After picking up two new passengers we set off around the coast of New Ireland again, ready to head for the North next morning.
Day 2 - Steffan Strait, passing New Ireland, Hannover Island, Trench Island
Fri April 24, 2015.
S2.41.4 E150.37.8
At dawn the Spirit of Enderby was at the entrance to the Steffan Strait, and our last view of any “real” land for the next week or more as we passed between the tip of New Ireland and Hannover Island. Vast numbers of Black Noddys were feeding in the calm waters, as Bismark Crows flew overhead the beautifully calm water.
After a couple of hours of rather quiet sailing through open water we came close to the tiny Trench Island, and a mass of birds. There were several Red-footed Boobys, but it was the Black Noddys that stole the show with an estimated 10,000 or more passing our bow.
After lunch we were well and truly in the open ocean – the so-called Dead Zone, with very few birds indeed. The next couple of days might be a bit of a challenge!!
At about 21.30 we crossed the Equator, and suitable celebrations occurred in the Bar. For several aboard it was a first sea crossing of the line.
Steffan Strait. Photo credit: K.Schlegel
Day 3 - at Sea
Sat April 25, 2015.
N01.26 E 151.15
The morning started with a pretty fair selection of birds, highlighted by a Bulwer’s Petrel for the early risers, and followed by a large feeding flock of Wedge-tailed and Streaked Shearwaters with an attendant Long-tailed Skua. A few presumed Pan-tropical Spotted Dolphins drifted past and then, just before lunch, a fine adult Pomarine Skua overtook us – complete with spoons. Our first pale phase Wedge-tails were seen today.
The afternoon was very quiet, and much more in keeping with the predicted Dead Zone lack of activity.
Day 4 - Chuuk/Truk
Sun April 26, 2015
N 05.51 E 151.15
Another morning of Dead Zone inactivity with just a scattering of birds and the odd dolphin species to break the monotony. More and more pale phase Wedge-tailed Shearwaters were seen among the dark birds – approaching a 50/50 split now, and a single skua (either Arctic or Long-tailed) zipped past going South?!!
Almost everyone was out on deck to get frustratingly poor views of a large whale species which passed close by just before lunch.
The afternoon saw us continuing on into Chuuk/Truk. There were some Bottlenosed Dolphins and lots of birds to keep us amused, including several Tropical Shearwaters and Black-naped Terns among hordes of Brown and Black Noddys.
It took ages to get alongside, but as dusk approached views of Caroline Islands Swiftlet and Micronesian Myzomela were had from the Monkey Deck.
Day 5 - Chuuk
Mon April 27, 2015.
N 07.27 E 151.50
This was to be our last taste of dry land before Japan, so everyone was keen to get off the boat at first light for a bus trip to “Japanese Gun”, a WWII relic overlooking Chuuk town.
For the birders this was an excellent location with all of the 8 target endemics found quite easily. Very good views were had of each, including the slightly wacky Caroline Reed Warbler, and stunning Micronesian Myzomela. A torrential downpour didn’t dampen the spirits and a leisurely stroll back to the Spirit of Enderby was enjoyed by all.
In the meanwhile the shops took a hammering from the non-birders, with tee-shirts and skirts of all hues flying out of the stores and onto the ship.
After lunch many took the opportunity for a snorkel, or at least a wander about, at Blue Lagoon resort, with a bumpy bus ride there and back through areas bearing the scars of the recent typhoon which had hit Chuuk rather hard. Many broken and battered houses and thousands of snapped-off trees gave us a glimpse of how bad it must have been.
We said farewell to Chuuk in the middle of another rain storm and headed North back into the Dead Zone……….
Chuuk. Photo credit: K.Schlegel
Spirit of Enderby. Photo credit: K.Schlegel
Day 6 - at Sea
Tue April 28, 2015.
N 09.09 E 150.53
A quiet day for birds today, just struggling into double figures for species and nothing seen of any real note.
The highlight of this day was of a very different kind as we celebrated the 25th wedding anniversary of our chefs Linzy and Cath – complete with renewal of vows, cake, rings and flowers all organized by the criminal mastermind Natalia.
To give the happy couple a tiny bit of respite, the evening meal was prepared and cooked by the rest of the staff and Nic (who excelled with her profiteroles). We shall do a head count tomorrow to check that the cooking didn’t kill anybody!?
Day 7 - at Sea
Wed April 29, 2015
N 12.49 E 149.17
Another Dead Zone day living up to expectations. Only 7 species of birds were recorded. The avian highlight was undoubtedly the sight of a Brown Booby hunting, and eventually catching, a pink-wing flying fish.
Matt gave a very interesting lecture on Antarctic history, and a light-hearted bird quiz from Chris allowed some to pass a few minutes in the afternoon.
P.S. Everyone apparently survived yesterday’s cooking.
Larger lenses out!
Day 8 - at Sea
Thur April 30, 2015
N 16.15 E 147.12
Still very few birds were in evidence this morning, but 2 Red-footed Boobys had roosted overnight, and while one went for the world record for staying on a mast (ending at 17 hrs and 5 mins) the other set out to find breakfast – eventually nailing 2 flying fish.
From about midday onwards things looked up for the hardy birders out on deck, with several feeding flocks of Sooty Terns encountered. These flocks included smaller numbers of Brown Noddys and White Terns, as well as the odd Wedge-tailed Shearwater.
A handful of Bulwer’s Petrels, some Grey-backed Terns and a couple of Matsudaira’s Storm-petrels were the icing on today’s avian cake.
Red Footed Booby. Photo credit: K.Schelgel
Day 9 - at Sea
Fri 1 May 2015.
N19.45 E 146.22
After yesterday’s taster, where Matsudaira’s Storm-petrels were seen by only a couple of people, expectations were high for more of the same. An oil drip was started about 0600 and it wasn’t long before that paid dividends with at least 6 “Matsies” seen in the wake of the ship before breakfast.
More Matsies were seen throughout the day, almost all in the wake, and almost continually.
After such a good start our expectations were high, but this turned out to be a slightly disappointing day with just a few brief high points. A pale phase South Polar Skua excited for a while as did 2 Pomarines, a couple of Bulwer’s Petrels and the odd small flock of Sooty and White Terns. A lot of time was spent watching empty space though.
Many people took advantage of the sun-shade on the monkey deck to watch various flying-fish hunting techniques by 3 species of booby – with varying degrees of success. It seems that boobies could be assigned to species just by noting which method they employ to attack their flying fish lunch/dinner.
Flying Fish in the Big Blue.
Day 10 - crossing Tropic of Cancer
Sat 2 May 2015.
N23.03 E 144.29
This morning saw us cross the Tropic of Cancer and a farewell at last to any vestige of the Dead Zone. There were plenty of birds all day – with many sightings of new and mysterious species!
The first surprise was a close look at a White-naped Petrel – a species that we last encountered 2 weeks ago. There were plenty of Bonin Petrels in evidence: a new bird for the trip but quite expected. We tried a bit of oiling in the afternoon which attracted a cloud of over 100 Matsudaira’s Storm-petrels and a couple of “black and white shearwaters”. Several more “black and whites” were seen during the day, and apparently of at least 2 different types. It is these birds which gave rise to the most discussion and conjecture for the day, since their specific identity is difficult to establish given the current state of birders knowledge. Our conclusion was that most of our birds should be assigned to Bannerman’s Shearwater (even though the book illustrations were at odds with our observations) but one or more may have been the newly-found/re-discovered Bryan’s Shearwater.
Much less controversial were the 2 Sperm Whales which cruised past in the late afternoon.
The other red-letter occurrence was Keith achieving a grand total of 5000 bird species for the world (only about another 5000 to go!!) duly celebrated with a card and drinks in the bar.
At sea.
Day 11 - Bonin Islands
Sun 3 May 2015
N26.08 E 142.44
Today saw us cruising off the Bonin Islands and turned out to be an excellent day for all.
A barrel of fish bits was broken open, and Chris and Sav spent the morning cutting the bits into smaller pieces and tossing them overboard for the birds.
We soon attracted an entourage of Wedge-tailed Shearwaters and Matsudaira’s Storm-petrels, and then a couple of Black-footed Albatross. Mixed into the flock were the odd Tristram’s Storm-petrel (a new bird for the trip), and plenty more were at the front of the ship. Also several hundred Bonin Petrels were seen through the day.
In the afternoon the bird numbers dwindled, but excitement levels were soon raised by a pod of Orca moving past. These appeared to be particularly big creatures, presumed to be of the deep ocean, truly pelagic type. Mammal-watching took over from birdwatching for a while as a pod of Short-beaked Common Dolphins came and played with us, and then a couple of Omura’s Whales made an appearance, giving really good views for a few minutes. Omura’s Whale was a new species for Chris, but his really big moment was to come just before dusk. The plan was to be near the very newly discovered breeding ground of Bryan’s Shearwater in the late afternoon, in the hope that they might be seen on their way in to roost. A plan with a truly tiny hope of success, but one that actually worked out!! A brief view and some snatched photos were all that was needed to clinch the sighting. Rather obviously a new bird for everybody on board – celebrations all round.
Day 12 - near Torishima Island
Mon 4 May 4, 2015.
N28.52 E 141.48
This was a day of long dull periods interspersed with excellent brief sightings. The excitement started early, well before breakfast, with a group of 4 or more Cuvier’s Beaked Whales ahead of the ship. For beaked whales they put on quite a show and all those on deck got a decent look for once.
Throughout the day there were odd birds of interest: a few Tristram’s, and more Matsudaira’s, Stormies, a brief encounter with our only Leach’s Storm-petrel of the voyage, Bonin Petrels scattered through the day, and a couple of sizeable flocks of both Streaked and Wedge-tailed Shearwaters. It was towards the middle of the afternoon that everyone started to get on edge though, because we were homing in on the island of Torishima where Short-tailed Albatross breeds.
Fish bits were tossed to the horribly empty sea for ages, with almost no result……not only no Alberts but no other birds either! Eventually a Black-footed Albatross put in an appearance and then another, but there were smiles all round when eventually the cry went up for Short-tailed, and a youngish immature bird showed briefly but quite well. The plan is to stay near Torishima, drifting, overnight then start the chumming in earnest at 6 am. Our chances are good, even though this afternoon was inexplicably slow.
Day 13
Tue 5 May 2015
N 30.35 E 140.42
The promised chum session started at 0600 and a fair crowd was gathered right from the start. Birds soon appeared in the wake – lots of Streaked Shearwaters, and the odd Black-footed Albatross, nothing coming too close until Chris shouted “Short-tailed Albatross” – and there was an adult skimming down the port side of Spirit of Enderby only about 50m away!! The next hour or so saw the number of birds increase steadily until at least 8 Black-footed and 5 or more Short-tailed Albatross were wheeling about behind the ship among an ever increasing throng of Streaked Shearwaters. An Arctic Skua, and an immaculate adult Long-tailed Skua added to the general feeling of success until operations were cut short by the skipper inexplicably banning any further chumming at 0730.
The rest of the day was rather anti-climactic. What might have happened if we had been permitted to continue chumming is pure conjecture, but suffice to say that our bird highlight for the rest of the day was the Cattle Egret which rested on the mast for a while (about 1000km from the nearest cow!).
A pod of about 15 Indo-pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphins were a welcome diversion after lunch, but things generally fizzled out with cloudy, dull and windy conditions through the afternoon.
Day 14
Wed 6 May 2015.
Today dawned bright and mild, with a slight sea which bode well for our last main target bird – Japanese Murrelet. The Spirit of Enderby was steaming towards the island of Miyakejima, where these little birds breed, with Streaked Shearwaters streaming past at a rate of about 500 per minute at times. Certainly more than 10,000 birds were involved. Some pale coloured terns gave poor distant views, but the supposition that these may have been Aleutian Terns was given credence by one sitting on a buoy, allowing good close looks – and it was indeed an Aleutian Tern : a species not previously seen on a West Pacific Odyssey.
Some misunderstanding, or miscommunication, led to lunch being brought forward so as to de-conflict with our arrival at Miyakejima – unfortunately the new time was exactly the wrong one as the first Japanese Murrelets came into view a minute or so after the first passengers sat down to lunch!! All was well in the end though, as several small groups of Murrelets performed over the next couple of hours to the satisfaction of all on board.
A couple of interesting “critters” showed as well – a Sunfish, a very large Shark (possibly a Basking Shark?) and 2 pods of Rosso’s Dolphins.
Day 15
Thursday 7 May 2015
This morning we disembarked the Spirit of Enderby after breakfast and headed off for further adventures with many wonderful memories of the expedition to share with friends and family.
