1166: Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific 4 Jan 2011

Trip Log Voyage # 1166
Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific
4th - 12th January 2011

Tuesday 4th January
DAY 1 – Bluff and the Foveaux Strait
1358: Departure from Bluff 46˚30S, 166˚20E

The group are met by Nathan, Yuri and Martin at the Kelvin hotel from 0900 this morning and proceed with baggage checks.  At 1030 the group board the coach for the 25 minute trip to port of Bluff.  Passing through the security check, we make our way through the port and shipping containers to pull alongside the ‘Spirit of Enderby’.  Aaron our Expedition Leader and the team are there to greet us and welcome us onboard.  We find ourcabins and have some time to explore the ship before a briefing in the lectue hall at 1145.  Our welcome briefing allows us to familiarise ourselves with the staf onboard and find out about ship operations.  At 1230 wehave our first lunch onboad prior to departure at 1400.  Heading out of the port of Bluff the weather is pleasant, the sun reflects of the water and quaint houses that sit on the hillside as we leave the harbour. Our pilot disembarks and the calm water starts to change as we enter into the Foveaux Strait, the swells surge against the ships sides, let our adventure on the Southern Seas begin.  Passing Stewart Island we follow its coastline south.  We gathered in the lecture hall once again for an introduction to the Snares and Zodiac with a safety briefing afterwads completed the practical part of the life boat drill; the lifeboats are cosy proving a quick way to get to know some of the fellow passengers onboard.  Time at leisure until our pre-dinner drinks in the bar which is followed by a lovely first dinner at sea pepared by Stephen and Brad, most people opted for an early night as we headed south, the ship is rolling as we drift off into slumber.

Wednesday 5th January
DAY 2 – The Snares
1200: 48˚22S, 166˚49E

We arrive at the Snares Islands at 0430, drop anchor and await the early morning departures of the Sooty Shearwaters from their nests in burrows under the tussock and forest of these beautiful islands.  Our 0530 wake-up call alerts us before day breaks and we are able to view them taking flight and gathering speed over thecalm waters of the bay.  As the sun rises over the horizon we can make out the distant Tree Daisies on the islands which we are excitedly await to zodiac around.  We don our gear and head out into the zodiacs to explore the eastern coast of the main island.  At 0615, five zodiacsare launched and soon fill with their passengers andhead off across the calm waters, weaving in and out of the small outlets, past waving kelp as it sways with the tide, wave’s crash against rocks and seals sit basking in the warm rays of the early morning sun.  High on the cliffs the Tree Daisies stand tall reaching towards the skies, birdlife darts in and out the branches and Bullers Albatross glide towards them, suddenly averting themselves to land on a small space nearby, we can view albatross on their nests and preening themselves.  Around another outcrop and we are greeted with our first sighting of the endemic Snaes Crested Penguin, followed closely by a group of them attempting to jump into the water, they are not intimidated by our presence and they stand to watch us floating close b, they are busy - shall we take this path or shall we take that one, is it time to wash and swim or shall I sunbath on this ledge?  Passing through caves and gaps in the rocks reveals further dark wide caves and holes which the sea swells through.  Penguins haul themselves up the penguin slide, a steep height reaching up to near the top of the island; we float at the bottom watching thepenguins.  Richie our NZ Geographic photographer swims at the base waiting to catch a penguin’s entrance.  After an hour and a half the zodiacs return to the ship, calm waters still gracing us, the weather had been superb for our visit.We have had opportunities today to view Cape Petrels, White capped albatross, Buller albatross,Grey headed albatross, Shearwaters, Tomtit, Fern birds, Antarctic tern, NZ fur seals, Sea Lions a Leopard seal and some saw a Shark.After we disembark, 7 snorkellers return to one of the bays, cameras in hand they take the opportunity of the calm conditions to view the Snares Crested Penguins in action in the water, they also viewed a Sea Lion playing close to the kelps.  Returning with smiles and reports of some wonderful pictures, the water was clear and offered a host of photographic opportunities.At 1015 the ship turns its bow and heads south, the swells are approx 2 metres as we cut our way through the waves of the Southern Ocean heading for Campbell Islands.  After lunch this afternoon, Martin Cawthorn briefs us on Whale & Seal Evolution and shares with us some of his photos and experiences, followed by Richie Robinson who, as a NZ Geographic photographer has many years of memories and an ability to catch the moment and bring a simple photographic opportunity to life.  Richie shared with us some of his recent photos, finishing with some wildlife photos of his zodiac cruiseand snorkelling this morning among the Snares Crested Penguins.At 1730, we join Aaron on the bridge as he identifies bid species.  After bar drinks and debrief of the day, dinner is once again served.  Many head to their cabins shortly afterwards as the fresh air and early morning zodiac cruise begin to catch up with them.

Thursday 6th January 2011
DAY 3 – Campbell Island
1200: 52˚30S, 169˚15E

After our breakfast this morning, Gus introduces us to the history of Campbell Island; a detailed lecture guides us through the past to the present. Campbell Island is New Zealand’s southernmost territory and lies 660 km south of Bluff, volcanic islands, there is much evidence of old peat erosion scars, volcanic rock and limestone formations from over the many million years.  We arrived at the north end of Campbell Island by 1100, ahead of schedule but the island could only be seen on the radar because of thick fog, at 1130 fog encases our ship but as we cruise inshore in the Zodiacs, Cossack Rock slowly appears within our sight from the mist, the ship disappears into the mist behind us.  We travel north following the coast line, Rock hopper and Yellow-eyed penguins can be seen swimming close by, whilst the many rock ledges and nooks offer a variety of birdlife.  As we travel through a rock arch the fog begins to lift slightly and we are able to view some of the megaherbs which have clung onto the cliffs of this Northern area.   As we turn the final ocky peninsula, we are treated to the magnificent sight of the Campbell Island Albatoss, the colony here is large, many with large light grey coloured chicks on nests can be seen sitting on the rock faces and up high in the tussocks, a few Grey-headed Albatross also nest here with them.  It is the volume of them gliding through the sky that leads us all to look up high.  The Albatross bank this way and that, closely passing the zodiacs, they are so close we could almost reach out to them; they tease us with their presence.  At Bull Rock we turn back to the ship in awe of what we have just experienced, arriving back at 1315 we have our lunch before heading down to Aaron’s lecture introducing us to Campbell Island and preparing us for what we can expect later today and tomorrow from this historic island.By 1630 the ship has relocated to Perseverance Harbour.  We once again cruise out into the calm waters of the bay in our zodiacs to view Tucker Cove, our firstwet landing, and we are greeted by a Sea Lion watching us from his vantage point.  Our group walk the 10-15 minute track up to the old 1939-45 coast watcher station and pushing our way through the foliage we are treated to a small taste of the flora that we will view tomorow, the yellow flower heads of the mega herb Bulbinellarossii can be seen along the pathway whilst the ground is soft underfoot and overgrown in places.  A soft drizzle falls as we turn back to the zodiacs.   Next we head further around the inlet past a couple of elephant seals who glide through the rippled bay.  Rounding the corner, Cave Rock where the coast watchers had their emergency hideout can be seen up high on the ridge.  We see a Sitka Spruce ‘the loneliest tree in the world’ which was planted at Camp Cove in the early 1900s.  There, an ambitious young sea lion bares his teeth and awaits our arrival, he stands his ground and tests our courage as he swiftly darts from one person to another, he makes a number of attempts to move close to the passengers and warn them of his presence.  From the tussocks behind he is joined by a much larger sea lion who sits on the other side of the stream observing us. 
We are able to view the tree and tread our way carefully back to the shore side and continue around the harbour passing Garden Cove and Venus Cove on the way and we are accompanied by numerous birds including good views of the endemic Campbell Island shag.  Other sightings today have included the Campbell Island Albatross, Grey-headed Albatross, Light Mantled Sooty Albatross, Giant Petrel, Rock hopper penguins, Antarctic Tern, Mallard Duck, Sea Lion and Elephant seal.The ship in the harbour in all her grandeur awaiting our return, the evening sun shines down as we board her at 1900.  Dinner awaits us shortly after as we are joined by 4 guests from the Campbell Island Bi-Centennial Research Team.

Friday 7th January 2011
DAY 4 – Campbell Island
1200: 52˚32S, 169˚09E

After an early breakfast and a night at anchor in Perseverance Harbour we organised our packed lunches for the day and prepared for our day ashore.  Half the group opted for the days walk to Northwest Bay and the others opted to follow the boardwalk up to the Col-Lyall Saddle.  A small group of divers had already headed out to dive at Davis Point; it was dark and gloomy but still provided opportunities to view the kelp forest, spider crabs and white nudibranchs.  At 0915 the zodiacs transferred the Northwest Bay Walk passengers to the wharf at Beeman Base and the group set off into the low cloud which hung over Perseverance Harbour this morning.  There was no sign of sun as the cloud cover obscured much of the scenery around us.  As we pushed through the tussocks, over ridges and around bays we were treated to the many landscapes of Campbell Island.  The soft peat cushioned by moss in places and surrounded by megaherbs and tussocks accompanied our journey as we climbed high to the fieldof megaherbs that appeared as we moved across the top of the plateau and headed down into Northwest Bay.  Among the tussocks Southern Royal Albatross sat, their feathers ruffled by the winds which ae blowing across the undulated landscape.  They watch us closely as we walk past and observe us with inquisitive eyes.  They walk within metres of us as we observe their rituals and beauty.  We wound our way down to Capstan Cove for lunch, sharing our rest stop with Elephant seals and Sea Lions, the waves gently lapping in the cove.  The light rain swept through the valley for a short moment and as quickly disappeared as we climbed back up to the DOC hut overlooking North West Bay.  Passing through goblin like forests, waded through thick peat and pushed through the scrub.  After a short break at the hut we continued around the side of Mt Dumas, stopped at the Coast watchers cave, then back down into Camp Cove to meet the zodiacs, with many smiling faces and a sense of achievement after this 10km walk we made our way back to the ship.The Col-Lyall Saddle group arrived at the wharf from the ship shortly after the Northwest Bay walkers.  We passed by the unmanned and derelict buildings of the New Zealand met station, and carried on up through thick Dracophyllum scrub.  As we continued higher we were accompanied by numerous curious and confiding Campbell Island Pipits.  e moved out of the shrub zone and into the tussock zone where the spectacular megaherbs such as Pleurophyllum, Bulbinella, Stilbocarpa and Anisotome are blooming.  Of even more interest were the numerous southern royal albatross, we could appreciate their true size and their stronghold breeding colony.  The albatross sat amongst the tussock, patient and quiet. Almost everybody made it right to the end of the boardwalk at the western cliffs where the views out over Dent Island and the southern ocean were unfortunately obscured by cloud, but even that was breathtaking.  As the day wore on, people drifted back to the landing site at Beeman Base and the ship.  Today we have also viewed Campbell Island Albatross, Campbell Island Teal, Pipit, Sea Lion and Elephant seal.Our day was rewarded by an excellent dinner prepared by our amazing chefs as we raised the anchor and slowly left the calm waters of Perseverance Harbour.  As we rounded the Heads the ship once again began its rhythmic rolling motion and the cloud cover which had obscured Campbell Island for most of the day lifted to reveal the rugged coastline of the Island, the sunset was spectacular as we looked back over some of the terrain that has cast memorable moments from our day on the Island.

Saturday 8th January 2011
DAY 5 – Auckland Islands
1200: 50˚54S, 166˚18E

As we steamed our way to the Auckland Islands, we spent the morning at sea.  Gus had prepared a lecture on the ‘History of the Auckland Islands’ for us and this was followed by a lecture from Rowley regarding the ‘Discovery of the Auckland Island’ (in 1807) in the context of those times, Rowley has been involved with this Island for many years, first venturing hee back in 1954.  Our final lectue from Aaron, prepared us for a choice of two afternoon activities a zodiac cruise or a walk to the Mollymawk colony.  As we enter Carnley Harbour, steep sheer cliffs face us; we make our way through Carnley Harbour, the remains of an ancient volcano.  We could not have asked for more ideal weather conditions, the water was calm, the sky was blue and the sun showed the grandeur of this beautiful remote harbour in all its glory, rich in history of shipwrecks and standings.  Those hiking prepared for the walk and at 1430 the two zodiacs are lowered and head across the dark water, past Victoria Passage to a small rocky outcrop to disembark.  We weaved our way across the boulders at the base of the hill as a lone Sea Lion swam over to inspect our arrival, the kelp once again stretched out across the water moving with the tide.  The boulders sparkled with crystals in the sun light and as we came to the end of this small cove we headed up over soft peat and grass where evidence of recent pig activity could be viewed, the grass recently disturbed revealing patches of brown peaty soil.  We continued on into thick shrub, climbing over deep cuts in the landscape which seemed to be sliced into the hillside and squeezed under or around branches, the thicket in places was sharp, prickly and unfriendly.  Tussocks grown deep into the peat covered the hillside as we pushed through a small track high up to the plateau, a challenging climb but definitely worth the views thatit offered as we stood admiring the ‘Spirit of Enderby’ as she sat majestically in the Harbour far below us, the views were as clear as the eye could see, the Auckland Islands really had delivered us with the most beautiful weather.  Looking out across Victoria Passage we made our way across to the South West Cape, as we looked down and across at the birds, an albatross colony of White-capped could be viewed sitting on the rock ledges and many gliding through the air far down below.  The sun beamed down as we sat amongst the tussocks marvelling at the serenity of this remote outcrop, we were here for at least an hour just watching the colony and its spectacular views.  We negotiated our way back down through the hillside and were met at the bottom by zodiacs, with great memories of the walk that we had completed; we then headed back to the ship.Those that completed the zodiac cruise around the bay followed the coast line of Adams Island North West past Fairchild’s Garden and Monumental Island and out to the open ocean past Break sea point.  We arrived at a deep cove below the Albatross colony and entered a Sea Cave.  There were two large purple jellyfish in the waterand hundreds of White-capped albatross were on the cliffs and in the air.  Also light-mantled Sooty Albatross were here.  We returned to Carnley Harbour and cruised Western Harbour to its head, while returning to the ship we explored the coast of Auckland main Island seeing Hookers Sea Lion and New Zealand fur seal, Tui, Bellbird, Blackbacked gull, red-billed gull, Antarctic Tern, Skua and Giant Petrel amongst other wildlife.Our divers were able to dive near Victoria Passage in the late afternoon sun, Macrocystis kelp forests floated aound them and as they surfaced a female Sea Lion came up close, she swam around playing for the camera, enjoying the opportunity that had presented itself to her.  Gus was waiting on the zodiac watching human and nature interact as one.      This evening we were treated to a BBQ on deck, passengers mingled sharing their day’s adventures and swapping stories as the BBQ sizzled away and the drinks flowed, against the stunning backgound of the bay.  What a wonderful end to a wonderful day.  Thank-you Brad and Steven.

Sunday 9th January 2011
DAY 6 - Enderby Island, Auckland Islands
1200: 50˚30S, 166˚16E

In the early hours of the morning we anchored off Sandy Bay, Enderby Island.  There was an Easterly swell gently rocking the ship but the weather was fine andonce again plenty of sun tan cream would need to be applied and reapplied through the day.  As we sat for an early breakfast and thought of our great day ahead, our Expedition Leader Aaron went to check the landing sites that would be best.  The diving passengers set of in the early morning light with Gus to Butterfield Point,white nudibranchs and lots of large spider crabs are seen here, conditions are gloomy.   Martin provides a lecture about ‘The Hooker Sea Lions of Enderby Island’ and then Aaron briefs us on the day’s activities, we pack lunch and head ashore via the zodiacs. It was a wet landing today to the east of the beach, and as we walked across the sand we were able to view the Hooker Sea Lions in their groups on the beach, there were many pups grouped together, and the bleat of a lone pup could be heard as it called for its mother.  Large Bull Sea Lion could be viewed competing for their space, asserting their dominance.  We walked across to the huts, passing between the two streams where Yellow-eyed penguins walk, suddenly from the Rata forest behind a Yellow-eyed penguin idled its way down over the grass and headed towards the sea, we kept moving forward so as not to disrupt its path.  We met with two scientists who were down on the island studying the Hookers Sea Lions and they gave us a brief outline of their work, those that wished to change into walking shoes were able to do so before we headed off across the broad walk to the western cliffs, here we searched for Snipe in the megaherbs and at least two were seen and photographed.  We then split into two groups, with the smaller group returning to Sandy Bay with Nikki, Brad and Steven and spending much of the day around Sandy Bay.  The larger group headed off on a fantastic walk around the island.  Covering varied terrain of flat or gentlyrolling hills, pushing through a discrete tussock path against sheer cliffs and on into the Rata Forest, this was a highlight and had a very different character to that of the open coastal regions and where bellbird could be heard.  Everybody came back with great experiences and memories.  Hooker Sea Lion were lying all around in the grasses and along sections of the coast.  Seemingly menacing, they were in fact harmless and everyone enjoyed watching them.  There were birds all around.  Of particular interest on Enderby are the healthy populations of subantarctic snipe and the flightless Auckland Island eal.  Almost everyone ended up seeing a Snipe at some point scuttling through the tussock or megaherbs and most people also saw the Teal along the shoreline or swimming on small ponds around the island.  There was also a Teal chick that some of us viewed swimming with its mother on one of the ponds.  Other birds recorded include: Red-crowned Parakeet, Bellbird, Tui, the Auckland Islands pipit, Auckland island tomtit, and of course the majestic Light mantled Sooty Albatross, arguably the most beautiful of all the albatross. These were nesting on the cliff faces to the north of the island as also were many colonies of Auckland Island Shags. Along the coast were Antarctic and White-fronted Tern, kelp and Red-billed Gull, and Brown Skua.  The botanizing also proved interesting,  plenty of Bulbinella was present on this Island and there were good examples of Stilbocarpa, Anisotome, and Gentiana.Eventually we all returned to the landing beach and sat above the colony watching and savouring our last hour ashore, a female and bull Hooker Sea Lion jumped up close to the resting group scattering us as we grabbed for our cameras and bags to catch this close encounter, we all remarked at the speed that they had jumped up onto the embankment.  Shortly afterwards we boarded the zodiacs from the west side of the beach and returned to the ship.  The divers once again slipped out in the late afternoon conditions, viewing crabs, a bright coloured shrimp and Trumpeter fish.  The wind was stillslight which made for a straightforward return to the ship and a very pleasant night at anchor in historic Port Ross.Monday 10th January 2011DAY 7 - Ranui Cove 1200: 50˚32S, 166˚16EDuring the early hours of the morning the ship moved across the bay to near Ranui Cove and at 0830 we had a pleasant breakfast in the calm waters. The divers were already out at Crozier Point where once again Macrocystis Kelp forests welcomed them, visibility was good and the conditions were excellent to dive in with no surge or strong current.  At 0930 we were all ready for our last expedition ashore, we alighted the zodiacs in Ranui Cove where an old coast watchers hut still remained.  As you rounded into the Cove there was no evidence to the huts existence, but after a short walk into the Rata forest the hut could be viewed, awaiting us was Rowley who gave us a talk on the history of the wartime coast watchers where past history could still be clearly viewed in the hut.  Aaron led us up through a winding trail to the coast watchers lookout where high above the bay you would have been able to view any ship approaching, it was a lovely walk though Rata forest, moss covered enclinement and across a silent stream, as we walked we could view Gentiana and Orchid.  Bellbirds sang in the branches close by allowing us clear sightings of these pretty olive coloured birds.  As the group once again gathered at the base of the inlet, you could sense that many did not want to leave; this was the last stop before we head north back to Bluff.  There was a reluctance to embark the zodiacs which were waiting to provide their final shuttles back tothe ship for this voyage, and as passengers looked back as the zodiac slowly wound their way out of the cove, all eyes tried to capture the last memories of beautiful Ranui Cove.After a lovely buffet lunch, at 1330 the ship headed past Ewing Island and out into the open ocean. The sea has a slight swell and we make sure our cabins are secure, as we head back to Bluff and turn our thoughts to leaving our comfortable home on the ‘Spirit of Enderby’.  In such a short time friendships have formed as we are all joined together by the magical experience we have shared.  This afternoon Dr Pat delivers a lecture on Scientist and the Seal, up on deck Pilot Whale and Dusky Dolphins were sited.  After a cuppa and biscuit we all gather soon after in the bar to recap our day, at 1930 we once again head down for another delicious dinner and for those that have not been worn out by the day’s activities a movie follows.  Outside the evening is perfect a slight swell carries us north as we surf the waves and birdlife swoops close by in the evening light.

Tuesday 11th January 2011
DAY 8 – At Sea
1200: 47˚28S, 169˚05E

Steaming north towards Dunedin on calm sea, after breakfast, Martin shares with us his knowledge of ‘Marine Mammals and Man’ in the lecture theatre, followed by Aaron briefing us on our disembarkationdetails for tomorrow.  Aaron summarises how great the weather has been for us and how unusual this is for the Southern Ocean, we have a wonderful mixture of people on board with common interests, soaking up the new experiences that the Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific have ofered them.  Recapping the highlights of the past week it was summarised in a photo slideshow which brought back many memories.  As most of us head out on deck to enjoy the sun, this was the perfect time for us to reflect individually or independently onthe expedition, dusky dolphins joined us and could be seen riding the bow and around the ship.  What a great afternoon for reading a book or chatting with new friends, others sat in the library organising the photos that they had taken on the expedition.  Our last lunch onboard once again is delicious, the dessert divine.  Gus takes a small group of passengers to the deep inner sole of the ship, where engines work hard as they push us home.   Later in the day Aaron takes us on a journey around the globe, elaborating on the many varied small ship expeditions which can be taken in many remote and beautiful places, capturing our imagination with amazing photos, we look forward to sharing these amazing places with you all again in the near future! In the evening the bar was full for one last time, as we all met to tell and share stories of the trip and then off for our final dinne, Steven and Brad provided a wonderful farewell dinner then it was time to finish packing.

Wednesday 12th January 2011
DAY 9 – Dunedin

Some woke very early this morning to watch us pick up the pilot at 0500, the wind was strong and lights of the Otago peninsula flickeed against the black sky, as we sailed towards Port Chalmers, day had just broke and the overcast sky showed signs of rain when we docked at 0600.  After one final beakfast it was time to board the bus, as we disembarked, we joined together for one last time for our group photo, the rain started to lightly fall and we laughed together remarking on how we had at last been able to wear some of the warm clothing we had packed but not worn.  With fond farewells we boarded onto coaches, many were returning home and others have taken the opportunity to extend their holiday or catch up with local friends.  Everyone went their separate ways and everyone will carry their own memories with them.  The magnificently calm sea atsunset as we zodiac around The Snares with amazing sightings of the endemic Snared-crested Penguin, the silence of the albatross colony gliding above us at Bull Rock at Campbell Island and our amusing encounter with a lone Sea Lion at Camp Cove, the fields ofmegaherbs that surrounded us on our walks.  At South West Cape in the Auckland Islands, high on the cliffs, where White-capped Albatross encircled us.  At Sandy Bay the Hooker Sea Lions snoozed on the beach, whilst the Bull Sea Lions asserted their dominance and young pups gathered in groups bleated against the gently crashing waves, Yellow-eyed Penguin stood in all their grandeur with the ‘Spirit of Enderby’ as a back dropped, Rata Forests dotted the beautiful coastline around Enderby Island.  Lastly tranquil Ranui Cove where we stepped back and wove our way through the silent Rata forest accompanied by the sounds of Bellbird, let us not forget the amazing weather conditions we have experienced.  These are but a few of the memories that will live on with us as we move forward.  The sights, sounds, and smells of the southern ocean, the subantarctic islands are experienced by few.  You are among the lucky few.  We have taken pleasure in sharing these islands with you, so that you can continue to advocate for the protection and conservation of these remarkable islands, which we here at Heritage Expedition care so passionately about.  Thank-you for sharing our journey and our enthusiasm, the places we visit year after year are special to us and watching our many new friends experience it for the first time and seeit touch your hearts as it does ours, reinforces our belief that Expedition Cruising offers memorable and magical travel experiences.