1568: Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific 4 Jan 2015
4 – 11 January 2015
Spirit of Enderby
Sunday 4th January
Leaving Bluff, enroute to Snares Islands
The expedition proper got underway at 1430 when the Spirit of Enderby let the lines go and sailed from Port of Bluff. Before this we had all come together at the Kelvin Hotel in central Invercargill where we had been met by Alex Ferguson, the Expedition Botanist. He and the Cruise Director conducted the mandatory luggage security check, which seemed a bit laughable. You wonder who might want to highjack a vessel sailing to the Subantarctic Islands, but then rules are rules!
The ‘security cleared’ luggage travelled to the ship by special truck and was waiting for us in our cabins when we boarded the ship. We travelled in the comfort of a coach and had our own security check before entering the wharf area. Expedition Leader Don McIntyre welcomed us to the ship and staff showed us to our cabins, leaving us to unpack, settle in, explore the ship and meet our fellow expedition members.
The harbour pilot came on board at 1430 and guided the ship out of the harbour. The weather conditions were good but the wind was forecast to rise briefly to 40 knots overnight. At 1530 we were all summoned to the Lecture Room where Don introduced the staff, ship and gave us a safety briefing followed by a Zodiac briefing. Hopefully we would be using the Zodiacs at the Snares the following morning.
At 1745 we experienced the practical life boat drill when the signal sounded and took our life jackets to the allocated muster stations adjacent to the life boats. The bar opened at 1830 giving everyone a chance to enjoy a drink and meet a few more expeditioners. Dinner followed at 1930 and sea conditions remained calm as we continued our way south along the eastern coast of Stewart Island. The forecast was for gale force winds from northerly quarter and as we were a little ahead of schedule, the plan was to hove-to off Port Pegasus for the worse of the front to go over. The winds arrived and were spectacular, gusting to 70+ knots at times with the sea whipped into a white frenzy – an impressive if disconcerting sight. Despite this, the sky was clear and we had great views of the hills surrounding Port Pegasus. The Captain steamed off the coast until approx 0200 on Monday morning when the wind eased and we headed to the Snares Islands.
Monday 5th January
Snares Islands
I think we all felt the movement of the vessel change as we headed past South Cape on the southern tip of Stewart Island and by morning the wind had eased and swung to the west. There was still about 3-4 metres swell on the beam and as a result the vessel was rolling a bit making it uncomfortable for some. Breakfast was served at 0715 and the planned Snares Islands briefing was postponed as we were running a little behind schedule. Our new ETA at the Snares was now 1000 and we did not know whether conditions would allow us to take a Zodiac cruise there or not.
The weather was fine and we had great views of the islands as we approached. There was a good variety of birds around as well including Sooty Shearwaters, Cape Pigeons, Buller’s Albatross, Diving Petrels and Salvin’s Albatross.
The decision was made to launch the Zodiacs as it was calm inshore, if a little lumpy at the ship. The transfer of passengers went well and when all 5 Zodiacs were full we cruised inshore and along the coast exploring the bays, caves and coastline. We could see Buller’s Albatross breeding on the cliff tops and there were numerous New Zealand Fur Seals and Hooker’s Sea Lions swimming around and hauled out on the rocks. We had good views of the Snares Island Tomtit, but only fleeting glimpses of the endemic Fernbird. The Snares Crested Penguin was a highlight, both in the water and on the land. We stopped to watch them clambering up the rocks in several locations including the large ‘Penguin Slide’ which was steep and a considerable distance up, demonstrating an impressive effort to get up and down. We could see the huts the researchers use when they are occasionally on this tiny island outcrop which is managed by New Zealand’s Department of Conservation.
It was a little easier to get back aboard the ship from the Zodiacs as the sea conditions had improved. Lunch was served at 1300 while the Captain kept the ship in the lee of the island. We then set a course for the Auckland Islands at 1400. The improved conditions meant that sailing conditions along the way weren’t too bad. It was a busy afternoon aboard as we all firstly underwent a Bio security check. Bio security is a concern for these islands and so we used the vacuum cleaners made available in the Lecture Room to ensure clothing, packs and footwear did not carry any seeds or dirt.
At 1530 Alex gave a lecture on the botany of the Subantarctic Islands which is of great interest to many of us. This was followed at 1700 by Don’s ‘Introduction to the Auckland Islands’ which prepared us for what was to come on our first landing. Some folk were still not feeling 100%, so there was not a full muster for dinner. 
Tuesday 6th January
Enderby Island, Auckland Islands
The vessel entered the calm waters of Port Ross at Enderby Island and came to anchor around 0430, much to the relief of many aboard. The day dawned relatively clear and fine with about 15 – 20 kts of wind from the SW and the forecast indicated that it would remain much the same throughout the day. Breakfast was well attended and there was an air of expectation as everybody was keen to get ashore. Don gave a briefing and outlined the two options for the day. The first was a long walk around Enderby Island and the second a shorter walk across to the Western Cliffs and the Light Mantled Sooty Albatross nests before retracing our steps back to Sandy Bay. Before we went ashore we created our lunches to take ashore. The chefs had laid out the ingredients so we could choose what we wanted.
The large group of ‘long walkers’ got away first and made an easy landing on a wave platform. Rodney, Alex, Sam and Jenny accompanied us on the walk. The track started as a well constructed board walk across the island which certainly reduces the impact on the soils and vegetation. From the Western Cliffs there is no marked track, though there is an obvious route along the cliff tops. There were numerous highlights apart from simply being on the island. Some made a successful search for Snipe, the Anisotome flowers were prolific and abundant and there were still good numbers of Bulbinella flowers in full bloom. On Derry Castle Reef we had really good views of the Auckland Island flightless Teal (including one dead one), and there were also significant numbers of New Zealand Fur Seals on the outer edges of the reef. We stopped for lunch amongst the tussock on the northern cliffs and a small detour through the Rata forest with all the Stilbocarpa polaris was a highlight. The walk ended back where we had started at Sandy Bay Beach where we spent some time simply observing the sea lions. There was a considerable amount of activity on the beach with large bulls holding harems, females with pups and of course the younger males trying their best to get some of the action.
We were all back aboard by 1700 and contrary to what had been forecast, the wind had increased, frustrating our plans to visit the old Coastwatchers hut in Ranui Cove. The Captain moved the ship across Port Ross and anchored close to Ocean Island but it was simply too windy to use the gangway safely. We went into a ‘holding pattern’ while we enjoyed dinner and then all of a sudden the wind eased and two Zodiacs were launched so a group of about 10 went and visited the old Coastwatchers hut. While they were away the chefs put out a desert buffet and the day concluded with a choice of sweets. The vessel remained at anchor with plans to leave for Carnley Harbour while we slept.
Wednesday 7th January
Carnley Harbour, Auckland Islands
We raised the anchor at around 0230 and set sail for Carnley Harbour in the south. Sea conditions were good although as we approached the entrance to the Harbour (which is in fact the caldera of an extinct volcano) there was a bit of swell. Don gave a wake up call and invited people onto the bridge as we sailed into the harbour. Don had explained in the daily programme that our activities this morning depended very much on the weather, so we had to wait for the team to assess our options. We sailed up the north arm of harbour where Rodney gave a commentary of the history of the area including the wreck of the Grafton and the vessel Erlagen which cut firewood to fire its boilers here at the outbreak of World War II. This event contributed to the origins of the Cape Expedition (codeword for Coast watchers). Rodney also pointed out Figure 8 Island, an important breeding ground for the New Zealand Sea Lions.
The south west wind was reaching all the way into the upper harbour and as there was very little shelter the team made the decision to go to anchor at Tagua Bay. It was an easy landing with Don and Dr Sam driving the Zodiacs so we could walk up to the old Coastwatchers hut. Rodney’s story of the history here was particularly interesting to Robyn (nee Fleming) who was born while her Coastwatcher father was on this island. We then climbed a little higher to the actual lookout where the men spent many hours scanning the horizon.
Everybody returned to the beach and was back aboard by 1130. Once stowed, the Zodiacs were washed out and boots were cleaned thoroughly ready for a new island. Lunch was served at 1230 and shortly after 1330 the Captain ordered the engines started and anchor up for our journey to Campbell Island. In the afternoon we attended a lecture from Alex on Environmental Change in the Subantarctic Islands in the last 200 years. Then at 1600 Jane opened the Sea Shop for those in need of some retail therapy. Travelling conditions weren’t too bad with westerly winds were coming just aft of the beam causing us to roll but not excessively and the weather actually improved later in afternoon. The chefs prepared a magnificent meal that was enjoyed by most folk with the notable exception being Dr Sam who was feeling a little under the weather. 
Thursday 8th January
Campbell Island
After a relatively comfortable night we came to anchor in Perseverance Harbour at Campbell Island and most people were woken with Don’s wakeup call at 0645 announcing breakfast. At 0745 everybody attended a briefing in which Don outlined the three options for today. They were:
a) A walk to NW Bay
b) A Zodiac Cruise in the Upper Harbour
c) A walk to Col Lyall Saddle.
Following the briefing it was time to make our packed lunches then the NW Bay walkers led by Alex with Dr Sam and DoC Rep Jenny was the first group away. This walk started from the Met Station buildings, travelled to the head of Tucker Cove and from there along Homestead Ridge and onto the ridge overlooking NW Bay. There was a steep descent into Capstan Cove. From the cove the route follows up the 1980 fence line until it intersects the track between Camp Cove and Penguin Bay. At this point it was a simple matter of following the poled track along the lower slopes of Mt Duma and then a muddy descent past Cave Rock to Camp Cove. The group was met by Don in a Zodiac about 1700 and brought back to the ship for hot showers and cool beers.
Those who did not take the NW Bay walk joined Don, Rodney and Marcus on a Zodiac cruise of the upper harbour. We started by cruising the coast line looking for Campbell Island flightless Teal and throughout the cruise we saw about 8 of these birds which were rediscovered in 1975 on Dent Island and subsequently reintroduced to the main island after it was declared rat free – a great conservation success story. The cruise included Tucker Cove where the war time Coastwatchers base had been and then we made a landing at the site of the old farm homestead (1895-1934). All that remains today is the old cast iron stove. From Tucker Cove we cruised into Camp Cove where we made another landing and visited the ‘loneliest tree in the world’ and also saw where Will Larson’s book ‘The Lady of the Heather’ was set. On our way back to the ship we cruised into Garden Cove and finally Venus Cove (the site where the French expedition to observe the Transit of Venus was based in 1874). Those on the cruise enjoyed their picnic lunch in the comfort of the ship before heading out again up to Col Lyall. There is an excellent board walk which starts from the old metrological base at Beeman Hill and from there it takes about 1 hour to climb (gradually) to the saddle between Mt Lyall and Col Peak and then to the ridge overlooking NW Bay. The wind had increased by the time we reached there but that was good for albatross. Those that stayed later enjoyed some speculator displays (both aerial and on the ground) of birds returning to the colony. There were also extensive areas of flowering mega herbs to enjoy and photograph. The views over into NW Bay were well worth the effort of the climb and having walked up as a group we were able to wander back down at our leisure. Don was there with a Zodiac to transfer us back to the ship.
The boys had worked their magic in the galley once again and we enjoyed a great meal in the company of the Sea Lion Research Team from the island who joined us for dinner. We remained at anchor for the night. 
Friday 9th January
Campbell Island
The crew had to re anchor the vessel on at least a two occasions as we were dragging the anchor during a very windy night. When Don checked the weather at 0500 there was a small amount of cloud on top of Mt Honey and he hoped it would burn off during the day. He and Jane transferred 12 keen folk ashore so they could set off on a summit climb with Alex and Marcus at 0600 while the rest of the group slept. The wind had intensified by breakfast time at 0730 so Don cancelled a proposed Zodiac cruise leaving a walk up Col Lyall the only option. The weather conditions were still OK as the group started the walk up the boardwalk at 0830.
Rodney and Don managed to run the Sea Lion team back to Davis Point (saving them a 6 hour walk) at 10am despite wind gusting over 60 kts near the entrance to the harbour and driving rain. In the meantime the Mt Honey group had been battered by deteriorating weather conditions and had been forced back 50 metres from the summit with gale force winds and low cloud. The Col Lyall group were a little less exposed but they also encountered wet and windy conditions and were returned to the ship around 1100. Despite the weather everybody had had a good time, in what was the first rain for the expedition. Some typical Subantarctic weather had been encountered at last!
Pizza was served for lunch at 1230 and then the Bridge was closed while the Captain lifted the two anchors that had been struggling to hold us. It was still blowing a gale as we steamed out of the harbour and bid farewell to the Sea Lion team as we set a course for Port of Bluff some 360 nm miles to the north. Once we cleared Bull Rock off Campbell Island we felt the full force of the wind and sea. It was on the Port bow and it wasn’t too uncomfortable, more pitching than rolling but never-the-less some of the rougher weather we had experienced. The afternoon programme which had been promoted was cancelled and most folk went to their cabins while some of the more adventurous souls remained on the bridge to try and capture photos of the sea breaking over the bow.
Dinner was a slightly abridged version and the chefs had done a tremendous job under the circumstances. Extra staff went into the galley to help with the service and those who came for dinner totally appreciated the effort that had gone into getting it to the tables as well. A vote of thanks should also go to Natalia and Lena. Sea and weather conditions were forecast to improve from about midnight onwards so we all went to bed hoping for a better day tomorrow. 
Saturday 10th January
At Sea, enroute to Bluff
True to the forecast the sea conditions had improved considerably by morning. The wind had eased to about 5 kts of northerly and the swell was dropping. Our day at sea began with breakfast at 0830 and was punctuated by various lectures and presentations. Marcus gave the first lecture of the morning on the ‘Geology of the Southern Islands’. This was followed by a talk from Rodney on the Russian Far East. This gave an overview of its human and natural history and covered the regions where Heritage Expeditions operates voyages.
Lunch served at 1230 was pretty well attended with everyone feeling much better after the storm. Don gave a presentation on some of his adventures including living for a year in Commonwealth Bay, Antarctica and retracing Bligh’s small boat journey through the Pacific. Later it was time to settle accounts, just as the sea conditions chose to deteriorate as the wind and sea picked up from the NW. Fortunately this didn’t last long and at 1700 we all assembled in the lecture room for a disembarkation briefing and an Expedition Recap. Don acknowledged the work of the chefs who had done a great job and received a round of applause. Then Alex shared a Power Point presentation that he had put together showing images from each day of the expedition. This was very well received and was made available to anybody who wanted to copy it. The farewell dinner was a beautifully presented buffet with lots to choose from. Then everybody retired to their cabins to pack and enjoy a final night of sleep rocked by the now benign ocean.
Sunday 11th January
Bluff, New Zealand
We anchored in calm seas off Bluff Hill in the early hours of the morning. At 0630 we lifted anchor and moved towards the Pilot Station where the Pilot joined us and took us into the port. Rain greeted us in Bluff and the skies were claggy and grey. Breakfast was at 0700 and then the coach arrived to transport us to the Kelvin Hotel or Invercargill airport. The final act of the expedition was to capture the moment with a group photo alongside the ship before bidding farewell to the Spirit of Enderby, the Expedition Team and the excitement of the Southern Ocean.
