1464: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 10 Dec 2014
11 December 2014
Port of Bluff, New Zealand
46° 35’ 9 S 168° 20’ 5 E
Forty seven keen passengers boarded the Spirit of Enderby in the afternoon at New Zealand’s southern most port Bluff. After familiarising ourselves with the ship, clearing customs and completing safety and ship briefings we departed Bluff in uncharacteristic light easterly wind conditions. These conditions had the local birdlife confused with very few to be seen in the first few hours, but before long we had our first Black Brow and Bullers Albatross, complemented with a growing number of Sooty Shearwaters, Cape Pigeons and Prions.
With conditions suitable for a trip down the west coast of Stewart Island, we were treated to magnificent views of Masons Bay and Cod Fish Island which is home to New Zealand’s endangered Kakapo. The chefs started the trip with an excellent dinner which everyone enjoyed in calm conditions.
12 December 2014
Snares Islands
48° 01’ 9 S 166° 37’ 5 E
Dawn greeted the Spirit of Enderby on station in the lee of the Snares Islands. Thousands of Sooty Shearwaters were departing the island for their days fishing with an urgency that only parents expecting hatchlings can have.
After an early 0630 breakfast we had a short Zodiac briefing before loading the Zodiacs and heading in to discover the joys of the Snares in pretty calm conditions.
Excellent views of early Bullers Albatross pairs, Sooty Shearwaters and Snares Erect- crested Penguins were obtained close up to the Zodiacs. In the more sheltered bays there were views of Tom Tits and occasionally the elusive Fern Bird. A small group in Rodney’s boat sighted the rare Snares Snipe. Most of the headlands had New Zealand Fur Seals hauled out and we were witness to a great sparing match between adolescent Hooker’s Sea Lions. At the penguin slide further to the north of the island we witnessed the great feats of dexterity as the Snares Erect-crested Penguins in their hundreds exited and entered the water.
After an excellent morning at the Snares Islands we departed for Auckland Island accompanied by the usual host of birdlife including a few Salvin’s Albatross which nest on the western chain of the Snares.
13 December 2014
Enderby Island, Auckland Islands
50° 31’ 4 S 166° 15’ 3 E
After a rough night the Spirit of Enderby anchored in the calm waters of Port Ross at the Auckland Islands. A hearty breakfast was enjoyed before we were briefed on the landing and plan for the day. By 0930 we had begun loading the Zodiacs in a stiff south west breeze and enjoyed our first landing in the Subantarctic Islands. Within minutes of landing we had experienced the extreme contrasts of the heated aggression of Hooker’s Sea Lions preparing for the breeding season and the serene solitary existence of the Yellow Eyed Penguin. On the boardwalk over to the wild-west side of the island we sighted the stately Southern Royal Albatross who had commenced nesting and the territorial behaviour of Banded Dotterel defending their nests. The mega herb Bulbunella rossii was in full bloom on the western side of the island so as not to be outdone by the more diminutive Gentions. We enjoyed several glimpses of the Auckland Island Snipe in the vegetated depressions of the western coast as well as a great view of Light Mantled Sooty Albatross which were nesting in the cliffs there. Martin led the party doing the short walk back across the island with opportunities to stop and savor the delights of Enderby Island at a more leisurely pace.
The party embarking on the round trip of the island found a delightful lunch spot just past Derry Castle Reef on the edge of the Rata forest. Further on we had a chance to enter the forest and experience the surreal ‘Hobbit-like’ environment which was home to Tom Tits and Bellbirds. On the final stretch along Sandy Bay Beach we got to see the beginnings of the Sea Lion season with three pups in evidence and a couple of harems starting to form, with all the associated fighting and posturing of the males. After a glorious day ashore we were treated to a fine dinner and a well-deserved sleep back aboard the Spirit of Enderby.
14 December 2014
Carnley Harbour, Auckland Islands
50° 48’ 8 S 166° 04’ 6 E
After an excellent nights sleep in the calm of Port Ross, the Spirit of Enderby motored down the east coast of Auckland Island and arrived at the head of Carnley Harbour at around 0615. We were greeted by overcast skies and calm conditions as the ship dropped anchor in Tagua Bay, home to the old New Zealand government coast watching station during World War II.
After a short Zodiac ride ashore in flat conditions we assembled on the beach and got ready to commence the short climb to the coast watching station huts. A young male Sea Lion had other ideas and had to be gently persuaded by Rodney and Don to let us pass. After a short walk we arrived at the remains of the accommodation huts which are in near collapse. Some of the great names in New Zealand nature conservation were resident here during wartime coast watching operations and it is their research that formed the base line for subsequent scientific investigation of the natural history of these Islands. Another short climb and we were able to view the observation buildings which had to be manned from dawn to dusk throughout the duration of the war. However, no enemy ships were ever sighted from this station.
Back aboard the Spirit of Enderby we enjoyed a fine lunch before commencing our journey south towards Macquarie Island.
15 December 2014
En-route to Macquarie Island
53° 01’ 9 S 162° 01’ 0 E
After the excitement of our landings in the Auckland Islands it was good to spend a day at sea and enjoy the luxury of a sleep in. The pelagic birding remained good with plenty of Gibson’s Wandering Albatross, Storm Petrels and Prions.
We attended a most insightful lecture on Hooker’s Sea Lions by Martin whose experience with these fascinating creatures is second to none. After lunch we enjoyed a talk on Cultural Landscape Change by Matt which brought together much of the history we had experienced on our landings so far. By 2100 we were approaching Macquarie Island and had the unusual experience of seeing another ship in these waters. It was the Royal New Zealand Navy Frigate Wellington no less, on an inspection of the Subantarctic Islands. We were blessed with a relatively quiet night in the lee of Buckles bay.
16 December 2014
Buckles Bay/Sandy Bay Macquarie Island
54° 30’ 3 S 158° 56’ 9 E
An early morning swap over of Macquarie Island staff was completed in foggy calm conditions at Buckles Bay near the ANARE station. With the rangers aboard we were given briefings on our landing at Sandy Bay by while the Spirit of Enderby moved anchorage.
The landing was completed in near flat conditions and a spectacular morning was had wandering amongst the Royal Penguins, King Penguins and the lounging Elephant Seals. With many weaners on the beach we anticipated seeing Orca who were reportedly patrolling the area but to no avail. The look out at the end of the boardwalk offered spectacular views of the Royal Penguin rookery which was at full capacity and very noisy with many chicks apparent.
After a short trip back to the ship for a late lunch we steamed back up to Buckles Bay and prepared to go ashore to look at the ANARE base. The fog had rolled in so we were surprised when we arrived at the beach to see a wedding party turned out to welcome the returning former base leader Jeremy Smith. After a short tour of the base facilities we were invited into the mess for the world famous scone and cup of tea. We got to experience the warm hospitality of the base which is arguably one of the more remote of Australia’s bases and a keen few also got to sample some of the ginger beers and stouts produced by the island’s boutique brewery.
Outside the birders were able to catch a glimpse of a lone Adelie Penguin which had arrived at the island as a vagrant and also to view the small group of Rock Hopper Penguins on the return journey by Zodiac to the ship. A late dinner and a well deserved rest awaited us back aboard the Spirit of Enderby.
17 December 2014
Off Macquarie Island
54° 37’ 0 S 158° 57’ 5 E
We awoke to thick fog and a building northerly wind which precluded any attempts at landing or seeing the sights of Lusitania Bay. As we had wisely already boarded the returning Macquarie Island staff we decided to set a course for Campbell Island. Fog remained with us for much of the day which meant bird watching was severely restricted, so we were treated to a documentary on the history of Macquarie Island and an interesting talk by Jeremy Smith who was station leader at Macquarie in the 2010 season, at the beginning of the rabbit eradication programme.
18 December 2014
En route to Campbell Island
53° 35’ 5 S 164° 24’ 2 E
The ship made good time over night towards Campbell Island and the rolly northerly swell began to ease back to the northwest, making conditions more comfortable as the day wore on.
We enjoyed a full programme of lectures beginning with Heather’s fascinating insight into the Albatross species of the Southern Ocean. This was followed by Don’s talk on his experiences of living at Cape Dennison, East Antarctica for a year. His descriptions of the majesty and the fear of experience a whole seasonal cycle in Antarctica was a feat very few have achieved.
After a delicious lunch we heard from Matt who gave us insights into the wind, waves and weather of the Southern Ocean. By evening we were experiencing that rare condition in the Southern Ocean of calm. Rodney introduced us to Campbell Island in his lecture which had us all keenly anticipating a big day ashore tomorrow. After dinner we experienced some great birding from the decks before retiring for a good sleep.
19 December 2014
Campbell Island
52° 32’ 9 S 169° 09’ 5 E
The Spirit of Enderby reached the calm waters of Perseverance Harbour at 0200 and we awoke to a light southeasterly breeze and overcast conditions. After a quick breakfast and briefing, 28 keen hikers shuttled ashore to begin the walk to northwest bay with Rodney and Don as guides. The wind conditions meant the usually wild west coast was relatively calm and the bird watching was up to its usual high standard with Royal Albatross at close range, along with Snipe and Teal on the lower reaches of Camp Cove.
The Col-Lyall group enjoyed a leisurely Zodiac cruise up to Garden Cove with a stop at Camp Cove to visit the ‘loneliest tree in the world’. The tree was guarded by a lone male Hooker’s Sea Lion which Martin managed to subdue and made us think of a boy and his dog! A further stop in Tucker Cove at the old farm homestead site along with its resident Giant Petrel population was enjoyed before a cut lunch and rest back aboard the Spirit of Enderby.
The afternoon expedition up to the Col-Lyall saddle was rewarded with excellent views of the Southern Royal Albatross nesting, gamming and swooping overhead. By 1700 the Northwest Bay walkers had arrived at Camp Cove where Matt forfeited his wages by forgetting the lifejacket bin on the Zodiac pick up!
By 1800 everyone was back aboard the ship and enjoying the pleasure of a hot shower and a fine meal. This was followed by a sound nights sleep.
20 December 2014
Campbell Island
52° 33’ 0 S 169° 09’ 6 E
A brilliant morning on Enderby Island was greeted by the hardy souls who had volunteered for the Mt Honey walk. After a quick briefing at breakfast and the production of one of Rodney’s hand drawn maps, the party was shuttled to Garden Cove over a glassy calm Perseverance Harbour. It soon became apparent that Rodney’s comment “muddy in spots” was very much an understatement! Once the bush line had been gained it was slog to the top of the 557m mountain. The herb fields, Snipe spotting and Royal Albatross nests were impressive as was the view from the top which happily coincided with the clearing of the early morning cloud that had shrouded the peak.
While this expedition was taking place Rodney lead a group on a Zodiac cruise of the upper reaches of Perseverance Harbour, while others elected to walk the board walk to the Col–Lyall saddle. A select few of the Mt Honey walkers decided to cap the morning off with a swim from the ship followed by a sauna. Martin also went for a swim at the Campbell Island wharf, but instead of a sauna he basked in the warm humour of his peers!
By 1200 we were all back aboard the Spirit of Enderby enjoying a delicious lunch before taking in the abundant bird life along the northeastern coast of Campbell Island. Grey headed, Campbell Black Brow and Southern Royal Albatross were in abundance as we headed north in calm conditions.
A relaxed afternoon was had watching documentaries on the Campbell Island rat eradication and the reintroduction of the Campbell Island Teal before yet another fabulous dinner prepared by Cy and Conner.
21 December 2014
En route to Bluff
48° 53’ 1 S 168° 40’ 0 E
A calm night at sea and a late breakfast saw a well-rested group greet our last full day of the voyage. A light westerly breeze sprang up as we crossed on to the continental shelf south of Stewart Island and we were rewarded with an increase in birds following the ship.
For those interested in birds of the extinct kind, Martin gave a wonderful talk on the Auckland Island Merganser which was last reported on the island in 1902. He followed this up with a documentary on the search for treasure on the infamous Auckland Island wreck of the General Grant. A much younger Martin starred in the section on Sandy Bay and the resident Hooker’s Sea Lion colony.
Just before another delicious lunch Rodney presented us with an introduction to the Russian Far East which the Spirit of Enderby explores in the northern hemisphere summer. This destination looks equally as enthralling as the Subantarctic and sparked a keen interest in many of us.
By mid afternoon the outline of Stewart Island was in view from the bridge. Rodney took us through some of the great experiences we have had in an expedition recap which was followed by a slide show prepared by Heather and Doug of our adventures on the voyage.
Just before dinner the ship came to anchor in the calm lee of the east coast of Stewart Island and the Mutton Bird Islands of Foveaux Straight. Cy and Conner prepared a sumptuous banquet for our final dinner which was enjoyed by all.
At 0500 the next morning the Spirit of Enderby headed for the pilot station at the port of Bluff where we arrived alongside at 0730. We bid our farewells to our newfound friends and departed with some special memories of the Subantarctic and the Southern Ocean.
