1462: Birding Down Under 25 Nov 2014
25 November to 10 December 2014
25 November 2014
Christchurch to Chatham Islands; Waitangi & off ‘The Horns’
Around 20 degrees C. Part cloudy part sunny. Light winds (Beaufort force 1-2) from NW. Visibility good.
This morning, we headed to Christchurch Airport and were in for a surprise when we were driven right onto the tarmac next to the plane. The New Zealand Customs officials were there to meet us, check our passports and then we were free to board the plane. We were off towards the Chatham Islands, with a one and a half hour flight ahead of us. Time flew with us, and we had a quick group photo on the tarmac in front of the plane.
After landing we headed to the Hotel Chathams in the township of Waitangi, where we were met by Adam our Expedition Leader who invited us inside for lunch. The ship was at anchor in the bay and excitement was building. The keen birders decided lunch could wait and headed back to the beach where a couple of Chatham Island Oystercatchers had been spotted. After some good prolonged views, the birds took flight, but photos were already in the can, and lunch was calling. After lunch we had free time for a few hours to roam the local area, with some checking out the local museum, or just wandering the beach. We met up again later at the main wharf where the Zodiacs arrived to shuttle us to the ship.
At 1600 the operation began to get everyone aboard the Professor Khromov, also known as the Spirit of Enderby. The luggage arrived about an hour later and then there were a number of briefings in the lecture room. Adam introduced himself and the team of hotel manager Meghan, guides Rachael, Brent (B1) and Morten, chefs Cy and Connor, Doctor Lauren as well as the Department of Conservation (DOC) representative Brent (B2). Meghan introduced the ship and various household procedures, after which we were given the mandatory safety briefing as well as a full run down on Zodiac boarding, disembarking and safety.
In the meantime, the ship had sailed out of the bay and proceeded to south and then north several times along the shores off ‘The Horns’ in a search of the elusive and rare local petrels. By now there was very little wind so conditions were not the most promising for finding those species, but we enjoyed close views of some Northern Buller’s Albatross, Northern Giant Petrels and White-fronted Terns, as well as the first couple of New Zealand Fur Seals of the voyage.
Come 2030 we were all hungry and we enjoyed our first great dinner on board. After the meal, the concept of bird listing was introduced, and Brent (B1) summarized the sightings of the day.
26 November 2014
Chatham Islands, Awatotora Reserve, Pitt Strait & off ‘The Horns’
Around 20 degrees C. Overcast until 4 pm, then sunny. Rain until 10 am, then dry. Winds Beaufort 5-6 from NW, swell building to 3 metres. Visibility good after the rain.
After an 0600 breakfast, a briefing and a packed lunch making session, it was time for our first very wet and bumpy Zodiac ride. Everyone did very well on the gangway, and by 0900 we had boarded the bus to make our way to the Awatotora Reserve. Bruce and Jill introduced the area and conservation efforts, after which we dispersed. Some shopped for T-shirts, some strolled about on the road, while some went various distances down the path towards the coast, a few all the way. Apart from the wonders of a native forest full of local plants and trees, the attraction for most was the endemic bird species. The Pigeon and the Warbler were soon localized and most had good views also of the Tui, the Parakeet, the Fantail, the Silvereye and the Pipit. Along the way, we enjoyed our lunches and when the rain had stopped, it was a very pleasant morning altogether. At 1315 we boarded our buses again and headed across the island, this time all the way east to Owenga, to where the ship had repositioned to avoid the by now unworkable swell back on the west side. We had a stroll along the beach until it was once again time for a choppy and wet Zodiac ride back to the vessel.
Soon after returning to the ship, everyone was summoned to partake in the mandatory safety drill, which was executed smoothly. Adam announced the plans for the remaining part of the day, and soon afterwards Meghan opened the bar.
We cruised Pitt Strait during the early evening and saw several Cook’s Petrels and Grey-faced Petrels as well as a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins and thousands of prions in the distance. After an early dinner, we continued to make passes off ‘The Horns’, scanning the sea continuously. When the sun set on a clear horizon, some began to lose hope, while others refused to give up. About ten minutes later, there it was – Magenta Petrel! It came in from the west and made a brief but very distinct visit off the stern, before wheeling off into the distance. It seemed that everyone who was on deck got onto the bird, and spirits soared.
Photo: L.Roycroft
27 November 2014
Chatham Islands, South East Island, The Pyramid & Mangere Islands
Around 20 degrees C. Early morning and late afternoon: Blue skies and sunny, wind NW Beaufort 3. Late morning until afternoon part cloudy, winds NW Beaufort 5. Visibility good.
An 0600 wake-up call announced a much better day than the forecast had promised. At 0645 we were all in the Zodiacs for a 2-hour cruise along the shores of South East Island. Good conditions allowed us to enjoy great views of most things that could be expected: Shore Plovers, Chatham Island Oystercatchers, Red-crowned Parakeets, Pitt Island Shags, Chatham Island Pipits and one Tomtit. There were numerous New Zealand Fur Seals along the shores as well. It was with reluctance that we headed back to the ship for a 0845 breakfast.
The winds picked up to about force 5 as forecast by mid morning but the sun was still out, so we circumnavigated the spectacular Pyramid Rock in wonderful conditions. Adam chummed and the ship was beset by hundreds of albatrosses of various species, while the rock itself lay covered in more yet. A spectacle not easily forgotten! The ship headed north again on the east side of Pitt Island, past Rabbit Island during lunch, where a few Chatham Shags flew out to greet the vessel. Conditions around the Mangere Islands made a Zodiac cruise impossible, so we had a quick look at them from the ship, after which the course was set for the waters south of South East Island, the main breeding area of the Chatham Petrel.
It was a quiet afternoon, so many took the change to snooze. After our 1800 dinner, it was up and down, or rather east and west, back and forth south of the Pyramid, hoping for sightings of pterodromas, but we mostly saw prions, storm-petrels and albatrosses. After dark we held the regular bird-listing session then it was time for sleep. This evening we gained 45 minutes as we went back to New Zealand time.
Photo: M.Kelly
Photo: R.Sagar
28 November 2014
At sea towards the Bounty Islands
Around 15 degrees C. Mostly sunny, briefly clouded over in the morning with one rainsquall. Wind morning NW to SW Beaufort force 2-3, afternoon W force 5. Swell SW 3-5 metres. Visibility good.
Sunrise at 055 was beautiful, over a calmly rolling sea with hardly a breath of wind. Morning birding provided good views of White-chinned, Soft-plumaged, Grey-faced and Mottled Petrels as well as our first White-headed Petrel. There were many storm-petrels and prions about, and the first wanderers of the voyage. A small pod of Long-finned Pilot Whales showed briefly.
At 1000 Rachael delivered a talk on seabird adaptations and physiological character traits, while at 1130 B1 delivered a lecture on identification at sea of many of the expected species of our voyage. The great lunch was cooked up for us once again by Cy and Connor was followed by the screening of ‘Beyond the Roaring 40’s’, a good introduction to the islands we will visit. More detail was unveiled in Adam’s late afternoon introduction to the Bounties and Antipodes, which was followed by B2’s description of the planned mouse eradication project for the Antipodes. The afternoon gave us many good birds, most notably many Soft-plumaged and some White-headed and Mottled Petrels, several Antipodean Wandering Albatrosses and much more. The first Light-mantled Sooty Albatross of our voyage made an appearance towards dinnertime.
During dinner, we learned that we would arrive at the Bounties around 0800 tomorrow. The seas did build during the day so our progress was slowed. Some were also somewhat stricken with motion sickness during the day. After Morten had read the daily bird list (26 tubenose species seen today) there was time to relax, chat, have a drink or simply catch up on some rest.
Photo: M.Kelly
29 November 2014
Bounty Islands & at sea towards the Antipodes Islands
Around 12 degrees C. Mostly sunny in the morning, with scattered cloud and a few rainsqualls. Wind morning W Beaufort force 3, afternoon W force 5, now overcast. Swell confused, mostly SW and W 3 metres. Visibility good.
From sunrise until after breakfast, we steamed slowly closer and closer to the Bounties. A confused sea and old swell made it seem unlikely that we would be able to launch the Zodiacs for an inshore cruise, but the combined talents of Adam and the Captain allowed us to experience this very special and rare treat. From up close, we marvelled at the amount of life on these seemingly remote and barren rocks – but what is remote depends on your point of view, and what is not barren here is the sea. Countless Bounty Shags, Salvin’s Albatrosses, Erect-crested Penguins, Fulmar Prions, Cape Petrels, Kelp Gulls, Antarctic Terns and New Zealand Fur Seals have made this their home. We enjoyed excellent views of all these species, flying, swimming, standing, walking, crawling, nesting, preening, squabbling, etc. All too soon, it was time to return for a tricky disembarkation at the gangway as we set a course for the Antipodes.
After lunch Morten delivered a talk on marine mammals covering aspects of distribution, adaptations, social structure and identification markers as we sailed south. The birders on deck added numerous Black-bellied Storm-petrels to the list, as well as the first Wilson’s Storm Petrels and Black-browed and Campbell Albatrosses. The bar hour was well attended and we enjoyed a dinner of chicken, lamb curry or the vegetarian option, followed by Pavlova – sweet and interesting! It was a fairly quiet ship after the bird listing due to an early start tomorrow!
30 November 2014
Antipodes Islands & at sea towards Campbell Island
7-10 degrees C. Morning overcast with occasional showers, afternoon increasingly sunny. Wind SW Beaufort force 3 dropping to 2, late afternoon rising again to force 5. Swell SW 2-3 metres and rising. Visibility good.
It was only 0530 when Adam woke us up and by 0600 we were in the five Zodiacs at Ringdove Bay, on the southeast side of Antipodes Island, where we had shelter from the winds and most of the swell. Apart from the occasional brief shower, the entire duration of the outing was spent in balmy and sometimes even sunny conditions. We sat and cruised off the island, marvelling at the rock formations, the colours, the rich vegetation – be it tussock grass, ferns or giant kelp – and the prolific wildlife. We had enjoyable and prolonged views of everything that the island has to offer. Both species of Parakeet, three species of seal, two species of crested penguin, numerous Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses wheeling and courting, Antarctic Terns, Kelp Gulls, Brown Skuas, singing New Zealand Pipits and the local Fairy Prions, circling over the sea and near their nest sites. A highlight was entering into a cathedral-like cave that Gaudi would have found inspiring. Life was happening all around us, in all its manifestations. The planned two hours out turned into three, before we tore ourselves away. Once again we had been blessed with far better than usual conditions for a unique opportunity to experience yet another of these mythical island formations of the Subantarctic.
We were all more than ready for breakfast when we returned to the vessel which then set a SW course towards Campbell Island. About 10 knots of head wind was all we had, but under the grey sky strangely few birds showed in the morning. Most of us had a wee bit of rest.
After our burrito lunch, the skies began to clear, while the winds continued to drop even further. The sea was still up some three meters, but it was not unpleasant as the swell was right on our nose and rather old. Pterodromas were mainly represented by White-headed and Mottled Petrels. A few Antipodean Wanderers and Campbell Black-brows showed as well. At 1500 Adam ran us through the measures and procedures necessary for us to land bio-securely at the islands ahead. This briefing was followed by everyone carefully vacuuming their outer layers and backpacks, all of which were duly inspected by B2.
As the winds began picking up slightly in the late afternoon, a few new birds appeared. The first Grey-headed Albatross of the voyage was seen well, and B1 noted a Chatham Petrel flying by from the bridge. After dinner and reading of the bird list most were ready for an early night.
Photo: M.Kelly
1 December 2014
At sea towards Campbell Island
Around 7 degrees C. Mostly overcast, part sunny especially morning, showers. Wind SW Beaufort force 3 increasing to 6 then afternoon dropping to force 4 W. Swell confused, mostly SW 2 meters increasing to 5 metres then dropping to 3 metres. Visibility good.
Our speed was slowed somewhat by the oncoming sea, as we continued on towards Campbell Island. The morning offered a lecture by B1 entitled ‘Extinctions and Re-discoveries’, which told a sad story of the mass extinction occurring at the hand of man, but with some good news thrown in as well. One bright note was the rediscovery and consequent conservation management efforts related to the Taiko, or Magenta Petrel and the Kakapo. A personal account of Brent’s and others’ rediscovery of the presumed extinct New Zealand Storm-petrel, not seen for 170 years, but found recently to exist and breed near Auckland and now ‘twitchable’ by almost anyone, was an entertaining part of the lecture. At 1130, the ship’s shop opened for a while, giving everyone an opportunity to stock up on clothing, literature, gifts and postcards.
Most attended lunch and then went down to the lecture room to listen to Adam’s introduction to Campbell Island, with an overview of its geology as well as human and natural history. At 1700 two documentaries were screened back to back, one about the successful and very ambitious rat-eradication project on the main Campbell Island, the other about the rediscovery and recovery of the Campbell Island Flightless Teal. Birding was slow today, but there were some good Campbell and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross as well as an early evening Southern Fulmar, perhaps the bird of the day.
2 December 2014
Campbell Island, Perseverance Harbour, Tucker Cove, Camp Cove, North West Bay & Cole-Lyle Saddle
6-8 degrees C. Mostly overcast, slivers of sun occasionally, frequent showers in the morning, dry all afternoon. Wind WSW Beaufort force 5 dropping to 2, evening increasing to 3-4. Visibility good.
In the early hours of the morning we arrived in the sheltered anchorage of Perseverance Harbour at Campbell Island. After wake-up, breakfast, briefing and packed lunch making, it was time to disembark the small but hardy group of 4 long hikers who were to spend all day walking to Northwest Bay and back. Shortly afterwards, everyone else embarked on a 3-hours plus Zodiac cruise of the inner harbour. We came back aboard for lunch, then in the afternoon set out for a dry landing at the abandoned meteorological station for a trek up the 3km board walk.
The day was magnificent for all. The weather was grey, misty, wet and windy in the morning. However by the afternoon, it was dry, the winds died down and the skies opened a little every now and then. It was as good as any day gets here.
The various groups ended up with a variety of experiences, and the sum total was quite impressive. Great encounters were had with all the best birds this part of the island can offer – the flightless Teal, the enigmatic but recolonising Snipe, Yellow-eyed Penguins, the magnificent Southern Royal Albatrosses, the endemic Shag, nesting gulls and terns and giant petrels. A rare vagrant was even spotted on the west coast, a Pacific Swift. Hooker’s Sea Lions cavorted in the water and on land, intimidating some but fascinating all. The mega-herbs impressed and so did the woods, the lichens and the mosses. In the time we were there, the tide rose from low and went back to low – the hours passed quickly and the day was thoroughly enjoyed.
During dinner, our anchor was lifted, and we headed back out after a wonderful day at Campbell Island – onwards to new adventures.
Photo: R.Sagar
3 December 2014
At sea towards Macquarie Island
Around 7 degrees C. Overcast all day with much rain and shorter periods of dry. Wind NNW Beaufort force 4 to N 5 morning and early afternoon, late afternoon SW force 3 increasing in the evening to S force 8. Sea confused 1-2 metres, building evening from S. Visibility varying, impaired much of the day.
A much quieter night than expected/feared was followed by a 0830 breakfast. The day progressed with limited birding opportunities due to weather and visibility, but a number of albatrosses: Light-mantled Sooties, Campbells, White-cap’s and Southern Royals were seen through the day. Many Antarctic Prions were also around and some Mottled and White-headed Petrels as well as a few Soft-plumaged added spice. An old female Antipodean Albatross followed us for more than 12 hours. Considering our average speed of near 12 knots, and her wheeling around from front to back, left to right, she must have travelled well over 500 miles today!
Rachael spoke to us in the morning about the Eastern Rockhopper Penguin and its crisis, while Adam later introduced us to Macquarie Island and the plans we have for our activities there. After a chicken curry lunch and a little break, it was time to hear B1 give us tips on photography in his lecture ‘The World through a Lens’, while the late afternoon was set aside for once again vacuuming off any seeds that may have been clinging to bags and outer garments after our visit to Campbell Island. In the evening, a video about the rabbit eradication program on Macquarie was screened. During bar-hour, there was an opportunity to hand in passports and postcards, to have them stamped at Macquarie. A dinner of pork, fish or vegetarian was as usual much appreciated. Chefs Cy and Connor are still getting many compliments.
4 December 2014
Macquarie Island: Buckles Bay & Sandy Bay
5-8 degrees C. Sunny all day with only scattered cloud. Wind SW Beaufort force 3 to W 4. Visibility good.
After quite a rocky night, during which most of us only got little or highly interrupted sleep, we found that the gale had passed and the winds had died away by morning. On its tail we had sunny conditions and only mild winds. It was looking good for our visit to Macquarie Island, and even better when the resident pod of Orcas greeted us an hour before arrival. B1 and Morten took two boats ashore and soon the local rangers were on board. Adam and head-ranger Chris briefed us on the plans for a guided tour around the base on the isthmus at Buckles Bay and the necessity of a stern landing onto a boulder beach.
Once everyone was ashore we split into five groups and set off accompanied by base staff. Highlights of our tour included the razorback board walk with great views from the top, the weather balloon release, the Gentoo chicks already creching, the tussock grass recovering, even the earth’s crust. The west beach and its life-and-death scenes, such as the big round wet eyes of the Southern Elephant Seal weeners contrasted by the Southern Giant Petrels going into the eye-sockets of the deceased of the same species. In the mess hall, we had coffee and snacks and the opportunity to chat with the base staff or buy souvenirs.
A quick repositioning brought us to Sandy Bay and another view of the Orcas seemed to indicate good fortune once again. At 1600 ship’s time (1400 local time) we headed ashore for the true wildlife highlight of the voyage. We spent four hours on half-a-mile of beach, marvelling at the numbers and behaviours of the local residents. These were primarily King and Royal Penguins and Southern Elephant Seals, but there were also numerous Brown Skuas, Southern Giant Petrels and a few other birds. The sun kept shining on us with few interruptions, but by the end of the landing, the cold of the wind had crept through most people’s layers. A quick ride back in the Zodiacs brought us to the comfort of warm showers and warm tea, or dry clothes and dry martinis, as one’s taste would have it.
Photo: R.Sagar
5 December 2014
Macquarie Island, Lusitania Bay & Sandy Bay
Around 3 degrees C morning, 10 afternoon. Morning partially overcast with sunny spells, afternoon mostly sunny with scattered cloud. Wind W Beaufort force 1-2 morning and N force 1-3 afternoon. Visibility good.
After a leisurely breakfast, we were at the huge King Penguin colony of Lusitania Bay. Perhaps some 100,000 pairs breed here, the census this year gave 50,000 chicks on the island, most of which were in this colony. We had easy conditions and enjoyed an hour long Zodiac cruise along the shores. A few Royal and Rockhopper Penguins, and the ubiquitous giant petrels completed the picture. Whether gazing at the masses on shore or enjoying the flocks of penguins cavorting around the boats, it was a spectacle to admire. The rusting boilers on the shore bore witness to a historically different approach to the animals here.
Later in the morning, we repositioned back north to Sandy Bay. An early lunch freed the entire afternoon for yet another amazing landing at Sandy Bay, giving everyone an opportunity to see what we felt we missed yesterday, or to take everything in today at a less frantic pace and with more peace of mind to spend time at each little scene happening. It was not easy to decide on which were the favourites: the darling Elephant Seal pups, the inquisitive Royal Penguins or the handsome but comical Kings. Many of us simply sat and watched, becoming so much part of the environment that penguins and seals alike idled up to us and made contact. If Adam had not called everyone together, we would not have made the last Zodiac.
An hour later when we dropped the rangers back at Buckles Bay, most didn’t notice as they were having drinks in the bar instead. A delicious fish/steak dinner with chocolate mousse to follow was served up while we were still at anchor, after which we took off for the Auckland Islands.
6 December 2014
At sea towards the Auckland Islands
Around 6 degrees C morning, 12 afternoon. Overcast. Wind SW Beaufort force 0-1 morning, gradually increasing to force 4-5 afternoon. Swell old SW and newer NE both 1 metre. Visibility good.
We enjoyed a leisurely day at sea. Calm as almost never, we enjoyed cruising along at good speed, with good sea-birding along the way. In the early part of the day, both Rockhopper and Royal Penguins were seen. White-headed Petrels were seen consistently throughout the day in good numbers, Mottled Petrels too, though in fewer numbers. Antarctic and Fulmar Prions were also with us, as were many Black-bellied Storm-petrels and some Grey-backed too. Over the course of the day, eight species of albatrosses were seen. Before lunch, some had a couple of brief views of small pods of Hourglass Dolphins, while one sighting of two distant Southern Bottlenose Whales and another of a speeding Minke Whale were the best cetaceans today. Gradually, the unusually calm conditions turned into something more normal for these latitudes, with the winds picking up from the SW.
B1 delivered a witty lecture in the morning entitled ‘Birding 101 – an introduction to tweety birds and the weird people that watch them’ and then Meghan opened up the ship shop for the last time. Lunch was buffet style and the pizzas were happily devoured. In the afternoon, Rachael talked about her special interest, Mottled Petrels. Later B2 introduced and screened two ‘Intrepid New Zealand’ documentaries about the shipwrecks of the Grafton and the Invercauld at the Auckland Islands.
After bar hour, dinner and bird-listing, the movie ‘The Big Year’ starring Steve Martin and Angelica Houston was screened in the lecture room. Today was all about learning what makes birders tick – or not.
7 December 2014
Auckland Islands, Carnley Harbour, Adam’s Island & North Arm
7 degrees C morning, 11 afternoon. Overcast with a few sunny spells. Wind SW Beaufort force 6 morning, gradually decreasing to force 3 afternoon and evening. Visibility good.
The winds were high in the morning, so early risers enjoyed good seabirds before the ship entered into Carnley Harbour, and there was a small pod of Dusky Dolphins seen briefly bow-riding too. In the calmer waters of the harbour, huge rafts and flocks of Sooty Shearwaters impressed as we sailed deep into the waterway, and there were also good numbers of Auckland Island Shags, Grey-backed Storm-petrels and even two New Zealand Falcons seen near the ship. At 0945 we began a one and a half hour Zodiac cruise that turned into two and a half hours because of the great weather and sighting conditions. Numerous Bellbirds were seen and heard and we had great views of half a dozen or so Auckland Island Flightless Teal, New Zealand Falcon, Yellow-eyed Penguins as well as more shags, shearwaters, gulls, skuas, albatrosses and Sealions.
Once everyone was back aboard, Meghan announced some household items to bear in mind, while Adam sketched the plans for the afternoon. Lunch was then heartily devoured – Cy and Connor had done it again. By 1415 we were up the north arm of Carnley Harbour, where we had a 2-hour landing at the site of the wreck of the Grafton. The afternoon was used (for all but a few in vain) to search for Yellow-crowned Parakeet, others simply enjoyed beach combing, Rata forest exploration, studies of mosses and lichens, or simply hanging out and relaxing.
At 1700 Adam gave an overview of the Auckland Islands and their geology as well as natural and human history, as we sailed out of Carnley Harbour and up the east coast of the main island. The weather was great, still overcast but with less wind and quite balmy temperatures. The birders on the bow picked up a number of Subantarctic Little Shearwaters as well as photogenic Grey-backed Storm-petrels. We had an early dinner (much praised lamb taking the prize tonight) and Adam warned us of an early start tomorrow. B1 completed the day with the listing of all of today’s wildlife sightings.
8 December 2014
Auckland Islands, Enderby Island & at sea towards the Snares
9 degrees C morning, 12 afternoon. Partly overcast with some sunny spells. Wind nil morning gradually picking up from NNE to Beaufort force 4-5 afternoon and evening. Rain evening. Visibility good.
We awoke to a beautiful morning, sunlit and still. After breakfast at 0600, Adam gave a thorough briefing on the options for the day. By 0800, after packed lunch making, we were in the Zodiacs, shuttling ashore at Sandy Bay where we were “welcomed” by Hooker’s Sea Lions and Yellow-eyed Penguins. We also felt the potential power of the surging swell on the beach. With the wind forecast to increase, plans for the day were modified, and instead of a circuit route, everyone was offered to go as far as Derry Castle Reef and then back, to be shuttled back to the ship by 1400.
We traversed the island on the boardwalk, enjoying the Rata forest and the scrubland above, Southern Royal Albatrosses dotted across the landscape at their nesting sites. After a walk into the flowering Bulbinella field to look for Auckland Island Snipe, and successfully seeing several, we headed further along the shore to see the Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses on their nests. The group split up, and most walked as far as the reef, while others meandered to and fro and eventually back to Sandy Bay. Wildlife encountered included more penguins and Sea Lions, many Double Banded Plovers and Auckland Island Pipits. We enjoyed seeing lovely Gentians and Anisotome in flower and amazing scenery along the shores and on the flatter bits of land.
Adam extended the landing time to 1500 as the landing beach swell – having built steadily until about noon – suddenly dropped almost right out. Shortly after having everyone back on board, the decision was made to anchor up and head for the Snares – the forecast gale making it wise to gain some time for the crossing. Soon after we sailed, birders were seeing unidentified diving petrels, identified storm-petrels and fair numbers of Subantarctic Little Shearwaters. For now, it was still a mere force 4 from the NE and a swell of about one metre. An early dinner was consumed as everyone prepared for a potentially rocky night en route to the Snares.
Photo: R.Sagar
9 December 2014
The Snares & at sea towards Bluff
10 degrees C morning, 13 noon and afternoon. Overcast with considerable rain. Wind NNW Beaufort force 7-8, by late afternoon veering to W and then S, decreasing gradually to force 4. Seas rising through the day to 6 metres plus, then dying out. Visibility reduced, clearing towards evening.
There were 30-35 knot winds on the bow when we awoke at 0700. This caused some pitching with sudden lurches, but wasn’t too uncomfortable. The ship came close into the lee of the south end of the Snares at 0830 and then cruised the east coast, where numerous white specks on the rocks were the best views most had of Snares Crested Penguin, although a few people were lucky to spot one or two between monster waves nearer to the ship. One or two Southern Buller’s Albatrosses were seen as well. The Cape Petrels were effortlessly soaring everywhere. By 0930 the Captain had set a safe NE course through the gale force winds and the 20-foot waves crashing onto the bow. There was no further programme for the morning except to hunker down and stay safe!
Amazingly, Natalia, Lina, Connor and Cy had lunch for us at 1300, and in the afternoon Megan was in the bar/library to settle accounts. Over the course of the afternoon the winds began to die down and late in the afternoon we came into the lee of Stewart Island. The afternoon allowed for reasonable views of more Southern Buller’s as well as a couple of Fiordland Crested Penguins – the eighth penguin species of the voyage.
A disembarkation briefing was followed by a wonderful photographic expedition recap of our voyage put together by Rachael with images from most of the staff. During bar hour we had a celebratory toast to one of the best ever ‘Birding Down Under’ expeditions, the weather having been extremely kind to us almost right to the end and with almost every species possible seen over the course of our two weeks together. The farewell dinner was a wonderful buffet created once again by the galley team.
10 December 2014
Bluff
We disembarked under a leaden but mercifully dry sky after breakfast and all the packing, boot washing, immigration procedures and farewells were concluded at 0900. Each group headed off in a different direction, looking for new adventures, but taking with them the treasured memories of this one shared on the remote islands of the untamed Southern Ocean.
