1460: Birding Down Under 11 Nov 2014
11 November - 24 November 2014
11 November 2014
At Sea, Snares en-route to Enderby Island
Seas built overnight as we left Bluff and steamed towards the Snares. Rolling swells, driven by westerly winds built the sea steadily overnight, meaning a sleepless night for many as we adjusted to the movement. We arrived at the Snares about 0730 and were pleased to see that seas weren’t as choppy in the lee of the island as anticipated, and the call was to head out Zodiac cruising as quickly as possible to take advantage of the good conditions. We cruised in under the cliffs at Mollymawk Bay (no Buller’s in residence yet though), and proceeded north hugging the island, through the cave into Hoho Bay. Puttering about in Hoho Bay and Ship’s Cove we had excellent viewings of the endemic Snares Tomtit, Fernbird and Snares Crested Penguin. Other highlights included excellent viewings of Southern Skua in full territorial display, Antarctic Terns, male Hooker’s Sealions (juveniles and bulls) lolling about in the water and New Zealand Fur Seals. The weather held for us and we experienced sunshine and light winds – a rare treat at the Snares! At 1000 we headed back to the ship, treated to porpoising Snares Crested Penguins around the Zodiacs and a raft of Cape Pigeons. Having only her Zodiac-driving learner plates, Rachael was pleased to have undertaken the cruise without difficulty and thanked all her excellent passengers.
Back on board we enjoyed a leisurely late breakfast, followed by a solid day of more excellent birding from the bridge. Conditions built as we departed the Snares, but eased somewhat into the afternoon. Highlights of the afternoon included many Cape Pigeons, White-chinned Petrel, the ever magnificent Mottled Petrel (fast becoming everyone’s favourite – no surprises there), Black and White-bellied Storm Petrels, Southern Royals, Salvins, White-capped and Campbell Albatrosses, Giant Petrels and a plethora of often hard to identify prions. So ended an excellent first full day at sea – a taste of things to come. 
©M.Kelly
12 November 2014
Enderby Island
We arrived at Enderby Island in the wee hours, a safe anchoring in the harbour heralded by calming seas. The day dawned partly cloudy, with a stiff sou’wester blowing. Undeterred by the conditions and in anticipation of the wonders to come, everyone was fair chomping at the bit to get ashore. Before we could proceed a briefing was held, full of helpful information such as ‘say no and walk away when a horny Sea Lion approaches’ and ‘yes, more than a t-shirt is required for this jaunt around a Subantarctic island’. The first boatload proceeded ashore around 0930 and was greeted by Yellow-eyed Penguins standing to attention on the dunes above the landing, a bevy of Northern Giant Petrels overhead and Pipits flitting amongst their feet. Once everyone was ashore we ran a gauntlet of juvenile Sea Lions in order to get to the huts at the other end of the beach so that we could change gumboots for shoes and drop gear. When everyone was ready we set off en-mass over the board walk, first through Rātā and Dracaphilum forest, out into Hebe scrub (where we were treated to two Southern Royal Albatross on the ground a mere 5m away), and burst out into a field of Bulbinella. Spreading out in a line, we scanned the tussocked area for the infamous Auckland Island Snipe. It wasn’t long before several were spotted and everyone had a chance to see them up close. We then wandered down to a good spot to spy Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nesting on the cliff edges. Here the group split, with a quarter staying behind to get a better look at the Light-mantled, while the others set off on a loop of the island, round Derry Castle Point and back to Sandy Bay through a variety of terrain which included boulder fields, peat swamp, tussock meadows, Rātā forest and Hebe scrub. Many of the mega-herbs were in flower: Stilabcarpa were in full bloom with a delicate scent, some Bulbinella were out, and Anisotome were still to come through. Birding highlights included: Auckland Island Shag and Teal, a Northern Giant Petrel chick, New Zealand Falcon, Red-crowned Parakeet, Brown Skua, Banded Dotterel, Tui, Bellbird and several well-meaning but unlikely sightings of rare and/or exotics. A 10km round trip was a tiring but rewarding experience for many and we were aided by delightful weather which was sunny in patches and refreshingly breezy. A few people relayed the startling experience of accidently coming too close for comfort to a cheeky Sea Lion, but no harm was done. Everyone arrived back at the ship content and full of stories, many which would have to wait for another day as people were ready to head off to bed early to rest their tired bodies for the activities tomorrow. 
©M.Kelly
©M.Kelly
13 November 2014
Auckland Island Zodiac cruise & the Shy Albatross Colony
In the early hours of the morning we raised the anchor and headed down the eastern side of Auckland Island and into Carnley Harbour. Here we were offered two choices. We could take a Zodiac cruise around the shores of Adams Island in the hope of sighting Red and Yellow-crowned Parakeet, having closer views of Auckland Island Shags, Teal, Bellbird and Tui, and with luck a view of the Banded Rail. The other option was to attempt a rough landing onto a break platform, followed by an arduous walk straight up 200m to a Shy Albatross colony. Many people opted for the first option given the cold conditions (occasional hail and showers) and the tough climb, but a hardy bunch set off in two Zodiac loads to attempt the landing. They made it ashore without too much hassle and slogged up the hill to be rewarded with excellent views of Shy Albatross on nests as little as 5m away which was a real treat after all their labours. Cold, blustery conditions were reported from the colony.
The Zodiac expedition experienced some success. They had clear views of a Red-crowned Parakeet feeding in a Hebe close to shore, excellent views of Teal feeding in and around the shoreline, including clear views of male vs female colouration (males with the green sheen around the head and neck), size (males slightly larger), and views of the birds flapping their stumpy wings. We crossed over to the Western Arm of Carnley Harbour in hope of spotting more parakeet, though unfortunately Yellow-crowned Parakeet didn’t put in an appearance. The current was racing through Victoria Passage and waves were breaking with force, making everyone glad that we didn’t have to pass through that area. Back on board, we had lunch in the shelter of the harbour before setting a course for Macquarie Island. As we eased out of the harbour into open waters we were pleased to find that conditions were calmer than expected and we made good progress into the afternoon. The birding went quiet at this stage as we were passing over deep, unproductive waters.
©M.Kelly
©M.Kelly
14 November 2014
Day at sea; Auckland Islands to Macquarie Island
A day at sea was welcomed by many as a chance to sleep in, relax, catch up on reading and lists. Conditions at sea remained favourable and we made good time progressing towards Macca. The calm conditions gave us a chance to enjoy the first lectures of the trip. Morten kicked things off with a very informative lecture giving an overview of marine mammals in the region. Rachael happily discussed the world’s best Pterodroma (Mottled Petrel – no debate there), and Rodney brought it home with an introduction to Macquarie Island, including a briefing on the landings to come. The Sea Shop opened for the first time this trip, proving popular with queues out the door. Sadly demand for Tuatara hats couldn’t be matched, though we can report a record day for Tuatara toy sales. A documentary exploring the recent eradication of rabbits and mice from Macca was played just before dinner. Quiet birding continued up on the bridge, with sightings few and far between compared to the previous days. A lucky few caught glimpses of Striped Beaked Whale, Blue Petrel and Soft-plumaged Petrel. Despite the slow birding, favourable conditions made the bridge a popular and relaxing place to be and many enjoyed whiling away the hours up there. 
©M.Kelly
15 November 2014
Sandy Bay, Macquarie Island
We anchored off Buckles Bay (the bay where the ANARE base is stationed) around 0300 and awoke to blustery, southerly conditions, with patches of sunshine. Rodney and Adam picked up the five Macca rangers from the base (Chris & Andrea the parks rangers, Keon 2IC/BOM crew, Meg the doctor and McGuiver the carpenter). Once they were aboard we headed down the east coast to anchor off Sandy Bay, our landing point for the day. Wasting no time, the Macca inhabitants made a beeline for the fruit bowl, temporarily cleaning us out of bananas. Once their potassium levels had returned to normal ranges, they gave us a briefing and we shuttled ashore by Zodiac, dodging King Penguins in the water as we went. Once ashore we were free to explore the bay to take in the splendour of our surroundings - tussock covered hills towering over us to the west, black volcanic sand beaches and the wildlife, oh the wildlife! King Penguins (adults and chicks), Royal Penguins and Southern Elephant Seals abounded. Overwhelmed at first, many of us soon cottoned on to parking up in a chosen spot and watching the animals pass on by, unperturbed by our presence. Ignoring the 5m rule, weaner Elephant Seal pups were keen to cuddle/search for milk, while curious Kings pecked at offensive gumboots. The Royal Colony was a sight to behold, with approximately 4,000 birds on nests with eggs. The local skua gangs punished inattentive parents, with at least five successful predation events observed in just 45 minutes. The stiff southerly breeze continued to blow, and many were pleased to head back to the ship for a warming lunch and some respite from the cold. Once circulation had returned to toes and fingers, many were keen to head back out once again for another dose of Macca magic. We were lucky to be treated to surprise views of a vagrant Leopard Seal and even a lone/lost Macaroni Penguin. Some were witness to a nasty GP attack on a King Penguin chick – luring the unsuspecting youngster into the surf before half-drowning then taking turns murderously pecking at the poor thing. It was a terribly drawn out process and one not pleasant to watch. The Macca team lodged with us on board that evening and were thoroughly tickled with the range of fresh food and conversation. One table in particular seemed to be having more than their fair share of fun, which entertained us all.
©M.Kelly
©M.Kelly
©M.Kelly
16 November 2014
Lusitania Bay Zodiac cruise + Buckles Bay tour
As we had to wait until the Macca team at the ANARE base were awake (being two hours behind on eastern Australian time), we were spent the time crusing a little way down the coast to Lusitania Bay. Views over the island were striking: snow had fallen on the tops overnight, while the water looked bluer than ever and hundreds of King Penguins porpoised and performed around the boat. Taking breakfast in shifts, we launched the Zodiacs and cruised along the shores of the bay, which is home to around 250,000 King Penguins of all ages. Stretching out several kilometres along the beach and at least 500m inland, the sight, sound and smell of the colony was something to behold. We also caught glimpses of Eastern Rockhopper Penguins from afar and were able to observe white nellies (pale morph of Southern Giant Petrels) at close range. Toddling back up the coast after breakfast, we were treated to clearing skies and by the time we arrived back at Buckles Bay the sun was beating down. On shore, we were split into small groups and were escorted around the base and its surroundings by the Macca rangers. We were introduced to other Macca team members (also keen for a yarn with new faces and fresh stories). With the eradication completed, the number of core staff at the station has reduced (currently 26 and very male dominated), and most work is focussed on post-eradication monitoring, weather and atmospheric data collection, as well as base maintenance. We watched a weather balloon being released (Robin ably assisted with this process), and were treated to Devonshire tea in the mess. All in all it was a most civilised visit. We were given the opportunity to wander down the west coast and up a board walk to a high point which gives excellent views over the base and the isthmus on which it sits. Along the way many of us observed a group of Giant Petrels feeding on an Elephant Seal carcass. There was a definite hierarchy within the group of birds and many circled, waiting for their chance to pounce. Elephant Seals were out in force, enjoying the sunbathing opportunity, while we were also treated to close views of a small Gentoo Penguin colony. As we Zodiaced back to the ship we passed by a small Rockhopper Penguin colony near the base and sightings were made of a large, unknown and very active species of penguin…most assuredly a Macca endemic. The clouds started building as we pulled anchor and set sail for Campbell Island – perfect timing. Birding picked up as we moved on, with sightings of both Blue and Soft-plumaged Petrel. Seas, now behind us, continued to be kind, which was appreciated by all.
©M.Kelly
©M.Kelly
17 November 2014
Day at sea enroute to Campbell Island
Many enjoyed the sleep-in this morning, as people took the opportunity to relax into a full day of birding, punctuated by meals, cups of tea and lectures. Shallower, more productive waters between Macca and Campbell meant that bird numbers were up and many caught a glimpse of Blue and Soft-plumaged Petrels. Seas continued to be favourable and the wind swung round to tail us from the sou’west. Adam started the lecture programme for the day, talking about various albatrosses and how to identify them. Rachael followed with a pre-lunch lecture on specialist adaptations of seabirds, while Rodney gave an informative introduction to Campbell Island in the afternoon. 
©M.Kelly
18 November 2014
Carnley Harbour/ Col Lyall/ Northwest Bay Circuit, Campbell Island
The day dawned bright and sunny, with light winds as we sailed into Carnley Harbour and set anchor about 0600. Following a briefing we split into two groups: those who chose to head off on the Northwest Bay Circuit with Adam and Dr Jim, and those who chose to Zodiac cruise around the harbour in search of Campbell Teal in the morning, followed by a walk up to Col Lyall in the afternoon. Given the strenuous nature of the NW Bay Circuit, most chose the latter option and a group of ten set off with Adam, ready to stretch their legs. This team reported a good days walk, with two excellent sightings of Snipe, and five Campbell Teal in Camp Cove where they were picked up at the end of the day.
Zodiac cruisers were also treated to excellent views of a pair of Campbell Teal and were able to closely observe the difference in size and colour between the sexes. Snipe were heard calling not far in-land, though were not sighted from the boats. Campbell Shag were perched on boulders along the shore, and proceeded to strike many a pose for the cameras. During our cruise of the inlets, we made stops at the old homestead site, where many had close encounters with a territorial sub-adult male Sealion. He seemed especially interested in those with big cameras, but luckily no gear was lost to his enthusiastic approaches. Two Giant Petrel nests were seen close to the homestead site, with chicks quite exposed to the elements and predation. A group of parents were parked up nearby keeping an eye on us, and we could only presume they were taking time out from demanding offspring. A further stop was made to visit ‘the loneliest tree’- a spruce planted in Camp Cove. It is a matter of debate in whose memory the tree was planted, though Ranfurly seems to be the most popular theory. Before stopping for lunch we raced across the harbour in the hope of spotting Light-mantled Sooty Albatross on the nest. Keen eyes spotted one about 15m up a cliff, tucked in under Draccaphilum trees which made an ideal hiding spot.
A packed lunch was enjoyed picnic style out in the sunshine on the deck before we headed off again, this time for an excursion up to the Southern Royal colony at Col Lyall. Some were lucky enough to spot Snipe with Rodney, while others went ahead to maximise their time at the albatross colony. A well graded boardwalk took us up to the tops, and we burst out of the bush-line into tussock and megaherb country. Here we were greeted by courting Southern Royals, some on nests, some strutting their stuff and many wheeling overhead. We were all amazed at the variety of noises these birds could produce: pops, rrrrrs, clicks, brays… they didn’t hold back and seemed entirely unperturbed by our presence. The flip-flop of their huge paddle feet was comical, as was their style of walking. They appeared hunched over like old men, shuffling along with hands clasped behind their backs. We whiled away several happy hours enthralled by their behaviour. During this time the wind dropped and despite the occasional hail shower, conditions were very pleasant. By the time we reached the landing to head back to the ship, the waters in the harbour were as calm as a mill pond. Dinner was served while we stayed in the lee of the harbour and most would have been very happy to spend a further few days in the area, but unfortunately the schedule dictated our movement onwards and upwards towards the Antipodes. We were treated to incredible soft light as we made our way out of the harbour. All in all, Campbell made a very striking impression and was generally agreed to have been one the highlights to date.
©M.Kelly
©M.Kelly
19 November 2014
Day at sea enroute to Antipodes Island
With the wind on our tail, we continued to ride the swell towards the Antipodes. Favourable birding conditions continued and representatives from all expected species called in around the boat. Sightings of Wandering Albatross began to increase (nearly all males, returned early to complete renovations on the nest before the Mrs was back in residence in a couple of weeks). Several sightings of Grey Petrel and Little Shearwater were made too, though were not seen by all. The weather proved glorious and sunny, and many spent happy hours out on the fantail of the ship photographing birds trailing behind while occasionally dodging rogue waves as they washed over deck. The lecture programme continued to break the day. Firstly two films documenting pest eradication from Campbell Island and the subsequent recovery of Campbell Island Teal were screened. Adam then sorted peoples petrel identification puzzles, and Rachael reported on the decline of the Eastern Rockhopper population on Campbell Island. She told us that there has been a 94% decline since 1942, with changes in sea surface temperatures altering the distribution of prey species. It appears that the volume of prey, as opposed to the ‘quality’ of prey is the main driver of population decline. Currently populations are experiencing slight positive population growth, associated with localised SST cooling, but this is anticipated to be only a short term hiatus from an overall long term trend towards warming SST. The Sea Shop opened for a second time this trip, with possum/merino gloves proving to be the trendy item of the day.
20 November 2014
Half day at sea + Antipodes Island Zodiac cruising
We pushed on through the morning, edging ever closer to the Antipodes. The wind and swell built as we went, coming in from the south-west. The sun still ruled overhead and the photographers were happy with the range and number of birds that followed the ship. Several Grey Petrel and Little Shearwater were observed, though not all were lucky enough to catch a glimpse. Perhaps this was an omen of things to come? We made good time to the Antipodes, nudging into Ringdove Bay around 1100. The volcanic nature of the island was immediately obvious, with large, layered cliffs erupting out of the ocean, and sweeping remnants of caldera edging the archipelago. The bathymetry is such that we were unable to lay anchor – dropping off sharply to over 700m deep not far from shore. Nudging into the lee of the island, we were able to enjoy lunch in relatively calm seas before coming around again to launch Zodiacs, and once again in order the load passengers into said Zodiacs. A rolling swell, gusting westerlies and a drifting ship, made loading Zodiacs into a fine art of haste and precision.
All boarded without incident and we were able to jet our way inshore to begin searching for four big ticks: Antipodean Parakeet, Reischek’s Parakeet, Erect-crested Penguin and Subantarctic Fur Seal. The latter two presented themselves readily, obligingly residing at close range in the middle of Ringdove Bay. Not long afterwards a group of five parakeets made themselves apparent (though with their cryptic colouration, they tested some peoples’ patience). Despite the fact that they are often in mixed flocks, on closer inspection they all proved to be the red-crowned Reischek’s. Onwards and upwards, we cruised south along the shoreline when a Humpback Whale surprised us by surfacing nearby. Taking a few breaths, she dived and popped up again 10 minutes later between the boats and the shore, most likely having swum directly under us! Making our way slowly north along the west coast we encountered several more pairs of parakeets, though frustratingly only Reischek’s. Still we were able to appreciate the wild nature of the island, with dirty waterfalls hinting at the sodden nature of the plateau and large slips caused by a large cyclone centred on the island on 6 January 2013 and estimated to have affected 20% of the island. Other highlights were close observations of the Erect-crested Penguins, and feeding flocks of Cape Petrel. With the swell and wind increasing (and body temperatures decreasing) we eventually had to call the search off and admit defeat. A disappointing result, but such is life. As we sped back towards the ship we had an encounter with a smaller Humpback (which may have been the calf of the first one we saw), which breached several times before sending us off with a graceful wave of the tail fluke. Showers set in as unloading took place and many were glad to be back in the warmth on-board. After warming up with drinks and dinner, the unlucky few not to have seen Grey Petrel gave it one more crack as we departed the island, but unfortunately had no luck. Dr Jim really felt the double blow – it had been a tough day at the office. As we pulled away from the shelter of the island, seas and winds started to build and we all braced ourselves for a bumpy night.
©M.Kelly
©M.Kelly
21 November 2014
Sail-by Bounties and day at sea enroute to Chathams
We pitched and rolled through the night, tilting up to 40° at times, making a sleepless night for many. Many gave up on sleep and tried to read, while others decided a drink was the best option. However, conditions were such that the internal bar door jammed shut, and a treacherous mission through the external door was required to make it back to the safety of the cabins. Conditions improved in the early hours as we neared the Bounty Islands, an archipelago of 13 rock stacks erupting from the ocean floor. Unfortunately with large rolling swells and 35kn westerly winds, Zodiac cruising was a definite no-go. Luckily, the key species were very obliging and came to us. Bounties Shag abounded in the air around the boat. In the high winds they had a tough time making any leeway flying anywhere, but their slow progress at close range lent itself to lovely views, and photos of this rare endemic. Salvin’s Albatross soared around the ship in good numbers, and Fairy and Fulmar Prions made their presence known. Even from a distance the chaos of the mixed colonies on the islands was apparent, with Erect Crested Penguins, prions, albatross and New Zealand Fur Seals squeezed cheek by jowl on any available space. With no vegetation or real soil, it appeared the birds scraped a nest of guano, small rocks and loose feathers together. The shags appeared to nest on a couple of separate, exclusive rock stacks, with mainly fur seals for company. Challenging wind and sea conditions meant that we were only able to make two passes before heading on our way. The slight change of direction bought easier sailing, much to everyone’s relief, and many stayed on deck in the hope of glimpsing the elusive Magenta Petrel, but had no luck. Rodney and Adam gave a talk on the joys of cruising in the Russian Far East, which whipped up some scheming and planning for future trips. Many turned in early hoping to catch up on lost sleep to be in peak condition for Magenta Petrel spotting the next day. 
©M.Kelly
22 November 2014
The day of the Magenta Petrel (day at sea enroute to Chathams)
Today was the day, the day to see Magenta Petrel. Dawn broke at 0530 and with it came a wave of the keenest of the keen on deck, with all eyes peeled and binos at the ready. And so the wait began…. People settled in and got comfy. We knew it would likely be a marathon, not a sprint. As the sun edged further over the horizon some ventured inside to answer the call of nature or for the quick comfort of a cup of tea. Then all of a sudden the call from Adam came over the PA system: “Magenta Petrel close in at the back of the boat!” Before we could fully grasp the significance of this statement the bird had gone as fast as he’d come. The lucky few celebrated while the unlucky few lamented. Expert opinion suggests that this was the closest one had ever been to the ship and provided some of the best photos ever taken of this species. Spirits were not dampened for too long however as those who had missed out picked themselves up and doubled their vigilance, stopping only for a quick bite (a delicious brunch and hors d'oeuvres – thanks boys) and a briefing from Rodney regarding activities at the Chatham Islands. Thankfully conditions were magnificent on deck with light winds, light seas and sunshine, glorious sunshine. Photographic opportunities were numerous as Northern Buller’s and Chatham Albatross began to trail the boat. Still no joy on the Magenta Petrel front as the day wore on.
An early dinner (thanks for being so understanding Cy and Connor) refuelled the tanks and we were energized to settle into the home stretch while the ship completed laps of the SW corner off ‘the horns’ of Chatham Island, the site of their known breeding grounds. Patiently we waited while Adam periodically dripped fish oil off the back of the boat in the hope of luring one in. The light was softening in the west and daylight was beginning to run short when all of a sudden eagle-eyed Adam spotted the distinctive jizz of a Pterodroma on the southern horizon. Calling the attention of all and sundry, 63 pairs of eyes strained to lock onto the bird, which became easier and easier as it flew in closer, completing a small lap around the stern and flew off. Emotions were running high, shouts of joy echoed around, adrenalin was pumping and dance moves were busted. The unfortunate few who managed to miss a sighting in all the excitement were awarded not only a second, but a third chance to view the bird, as it came in on the boat again and again, before heading off into the sunset. This climax ended an unprecedented day of viewing as it was only the second time two birds had been spotted in one day and the most number of viewing opportunities in a day. A life bird for many, this was truly the cherry on top of a fantastic trip. While many indulged in a celebratory drink, frivolity was kept in check owing to another extremely early start the next day.
23 November 2014
Awatotora Reserve, Chatham Island
Westerly winds and swell forced us to anchor on the east side of the island overnight in Owenga Bay. Despite an optimistic start time of 0530 this morning, which would give us enough time for a briefing and to make our packed lunches, conditions were deemed too unpleasant to continue until they had lessened. Once cleared with various parties ashore, the call was made to hold off until the afternoon as the forecast was for easing winds. Most gave a grateful sigh and headed back to bed for a blissful snooze. At 1300 we set off for the golden sand of Owenga. Plentiful whitecaps made for a wet and bumpy ride, but the breeze soon dried us off. We were picked up by school buses, so some of the taller people found themselves with their knees around their ears. As we passed through the main township of Waitangi we noticed that most of the town seemed to be gathered at the rugby club. We drove for 45 minutes down to the Awatotoroa Reserve on Liz and Bruce Tainui’s land at the south west corner of the island. Several Weka and many Harrier Hawkes were spotted enroute, while lambs and calves frolicked in the fields. Awatotoroa is just one part of the conservation work undertaken by Liz and Bruce. They also run the Taiko Trust, facilitate Chatham Petrel, Taiko (Magenta petrel) and Chatham Albatross translocations and undertake extensive predator control. Awatotoroa is a 2,000 acre reserve of regenerating native forest, with is heavily trapped. Here we were greeted by Chatham Pigeons as we hopped off the bus, one of our target species. We were given the chance to head off down the track in the gully through to the coast or to amble around at our own pace in order to spot our other target species, Chatham Grey Warbler. Its distinctive song is a dead giveaway and everyone soon managed to lock onto one. The bush structure along the gully dominated by tree ferns, ribbon wood and Kawakawa trees proved quite unique compared to the rest of the main island. In the end only four people made it all the way to the end and were rewarded with views of the Chatham Island Forget-me-not and Pitt Shags nesting in the distance. Others who stayed close got to observe a Fantail on a nest and Weka chicks. All enjoyed the sunshine and were pleased not have visited there in the howling wind and showers that dominated the morning. It was an easy ride back to the ship by Zodiac as the seas were now flat, though large swells through Pitt Strait meant we stayed off the east coast overnight. 
©M.Kelly
©M.Kelly
24 November 2014
The Pyramid, South-East Island, Mangere Island
The final morning of our expedition dawned cool and cloudy, though this did not put people off enjoying some excellent birding. Crepuscular rays made for striking photographic opportunities as we steamed south towards The Pyramid, a rock stack resembling a sharks tooth with a large cavity, which erupts out of the ocean. This spectacular feature is the stronghold of 5,000 breeding pairs of Chatham Albatross (and one confused Salvin’s). We chummed as we circumnavigated the island a couple of times and it didn’t take long for the waters around the boat to be inundated with scrappy Chatham Albatross and Northern Buller’s. They provided a real spectacle as they came into land like floatplanes on their big paddle feet and tussled greedily over fish scraps.
Our next excursion was a Zodiac cruise close to the shores of South East Island. In shore it didn’t take long for us to spot the sassy little Shore Plovers who, with their black caps and white headbands, resembled little bald monks scurrying around the shore line. Much to everyone’s delight Adam spotted a pair of Chatham Island Oystercatchers as we poked our nose around into the next bay. Two big ticks! Unfortunately Snipe and Black Robin were not inclined to make an appearance (dreams are free), but we enjoyed excellent views of fur seals, nesting Pitt Shags and White-fronted Terns, while Tui, Kakareke and Fantail were spotted in the bush. While we were cruising, the crew and chefs were busy fishing out the back, hauling in beautiful blue cod, though sadly not enough for all of our lunches. Pulling anchor we made a beeline for Mangere Island, off the northwest corner of Pitt Island in the hope of taking a Zodiac cruise there. Enroute we saw Chatham Shag, another big tick. During this time we had our final briefing for the disembarkation and debriefed the trip. Those who were unsure were assured that taking a flight from the Chathams dressed in gumboots would be considered normal. Megan put together a wonderful slideshow summary of our expedition, with many striking shots of the plants, wildlife and people along the way. When we arrived at Mangere the call was made to abandon our plans for a Zodiac cruise as conditions were too difficult to launch the boats, so we circumnavigated the island as close as possible. Mysterious cetacean sightings were made, with some swearing they saw dolphins, while others said they were Shepherd’s Beaked Whales. No consensus could be made, but it was an exciting, if brief, viewing so close to the ship. From here we made a final pass of ‘the horns’, hoping for views of the Chatham Petrel as we had heard from Liz that one was in residence at the colony. Winds had dropped significantly, so conditions were not ideal for gadfly petrels. Best efforts were made to attract anything in the vicinity, with fish oil being dropped and even war-whopping, but to no avail. There was not a gadfly in sight so luckily the company of those who chose to ride it out was excellent. With darkness falling we admitted defeat and headed inside to enjoy Cy and Connor’s delicious farewell buffet dinner.
All in all this was a particularly fantastic trip due in part to the especially good weather, the unprecedented sightings of a number of rare species and also the people who shared in the excitement and wonder of it all. Many thanks for the excellent company and for choosing to experience this special part of the world with us.
