1473: Ross Sea - In the Wake of Scott and Shackleton 9 Feb 2014

In the Wake of Scott and Shackleton

Voyage #1473
9 February – 8 March 2014
Voyage 1473 on MV Spirit of Enderby/Professor Khromov

Day 1 - Sunday 9 February – Invercargill, Bluff and at sea 
Noon position: Latitude 46^o35.613’ South; Longitude 168^o.20.317’ East
Positions and other data are taken from the Deck Log Book.
Air temperature: 21^oC; Water 15^oC
Yesterday we arrived at New Zealand’s southernmost city and settled down in the Kelvin Hotel. Here we enjoyed a sumptuous dinner and had the pleasure of meeting Heritage Expeditions staff including Meghan, the ship’s Hotel Director, Adam, Martin, and Dr John who made us very welcome. Today we were greeted with beautiful weather, with just a few scattered clouds and a light wind. Max the Ship Manager for Heritage Expeditions, along with David expedition historian, one of the lecturing staff and compiler of this Log, greeted us in the hotel foyer. Our luggage was then carefully taken care of and loaded into a vehicle for delivery to the Spirit of Enderby.
David then escorted us to the Southland Museum and Art Gallery which a few of us had seen yesterday, for a most interesting two hours. Curator of Tuataras and Photography Lindsay Hazley, who had a young Tuatara resting on one arm, provided a very interesting explanation on the biology of the animal. Henry the oldest, estimated to be over 110 years old, lay outside his burrow, unconcerned with proceedings on the other side of the glass. Lindsay said had a vicious bite that could take off a finger. The earliest tuatara at Invercargill was in the Athenaeum during the 1870’s. The creature was kept in a shower and was found by the cleaning lady who was bitten. The tuatara was killed and his days ended in a glass specimen jar. Working with the Department of Conservation (DoC), Lindsay’s goal is to see the animals released on islands in Fouveaux Strait, but only once the islands are rat-free. Some of us touched the Tuatara and were surprised how soft the leathery looking skin along with the spines on top of the back felt. Most of us then enjoyed the outstanding Roaring Forties film followed by the fine exhibit on New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands. Interesting artefacts associated with the shipwreck and castaway era, farming and World War 2, provided a perfect introduction to some localities we hope to visit.
A special member of our group that day, although unfortunately not travelling south with us, was Allun Breeze. Allun was once with the Royal New Zealand Air Force, and spent several months maintaining the Beaver and Auster aircraft at New Zealand’s Scott Base. These were the aircraft used by the late Sir Edmund Hillary for his Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition 1957-1958.
For our journey south however, we do have the pleasure of being on board with:
-Robin Burton, Grandson of William Burton a member of the Crew on the SS Terra Nova during Captain. R.F. Scott’s British Antarctic Expedition 1910-1913
-Malcolm Thomson, grandson of Leslie Thomson First Officer on the SY Aurora and his son Michael, during Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Imperial Transantarctic Expedition 1914-1917 Ross Sea Party, led by Lieutenant Aeneas Mackintosh
-Meredith Trunk, whose father Lieutenant Thomas Brady served with the US Navy during Operation High Jump, the United States Antarctic Developments Project (Admiral R.E. Byrd’s 4^thexpedition of 1946-47 which involved 13 ships and 4700 men
-Michele Hosking, whose uncle Peter Kamp, while a geology student at Waikato University, in the 1978-1979 summer worked in the Darwin Mountains of Victoria Land Antarctica, 325 km from Scott Base. Peter helped compile the first geological map of the Britannia Range and when on Derrick Peak, assisted in the collection of 15 nickel-iron meteorites with the largest 200 kg.
Back at the hotel we enjoyed an excellent lunch and soon boarded a coach for Bluff and the Spirit of Enderby. Our documents were inspected by a security officer who boarded the coach and at the ship, Rodney Russ our Expedition Leader, Meghan and other staff very kindly showed us to our cabins. Here we were reunited with our luggage and familiarised ourselves with the ship. Before departure we attended our first briefing in the Lecture Room on Level Four. Rodney who has visited the Subantarctic Islands around 100 times and the Ross Sea on 40 or more visits, then introduced the staff. Meghan followed with information regarding the ship, and then Rodney spoke about the lifeboat drill and Zodiac procedures. At 4.15 the Pilot boat came alongside to escort us from Bluff Harbour and by 4.30 we were on our way. In accordance with international law, the lifeboat practical drill is held within 24 hours. This duly took place with us hearing seven short blasts and one long blast from the ship’s horn three times. Following dinner, many of us assembled at the bow to enjoy the ambience of a peaceful and perfect evening with the Tin Range of Stewart Island visible to starboard. The sea was calm and a few Sooty Shearwaters were about. At approximately 9.30 the sun which resembled a golden ball of fire, dipped below the horizon. We then called it a day in readiness for possible Zodiac cruising tomorrow.



Day 2 Monday 10 February– At sea – Snares Islands - en-route for Auckland Islands
Noon position: Latitude 48^o15.514’ South; Longitude 166^o29.398’ East
Air temperature 17^oC
Water temperature 14^oC
We had a good rest and this morning the sea was calm. Bands of pink cloud heralded the start of a fine day. The Spirit of Enderby arrived off the Snares at South Bay just before 6am. The island group was discovered by Captain George Vancouver from the HMS Discovery in 1791. The main island is named North-East Island and the second largest is Broughton Island, this named after Lieutenant William Broughton commander of HMS Chatham. To the south-west is a group of five small islands known as the Western Chain; each with a Maori numeral as its name. Until 1830 the islands were visited by numerous sealing parties from Australia, which almost wiped out the New Zealand Fur seal (Arctocephalus forsteri) colonies. No ship wrecks have been recorded.
After an early breakfast, we attended a briefing and at 8am the Zodiac operation began using five boats. These are powered by 60 h.p fuel-efficient, four-stroke Yamaha engines. This morning we spent our time at South Bay and had excellent viewing of the mica-rich granite rocks which are ringed at the base by a band of kelp. There were patches of green algae and white, pale green and red lichens. The cliffs were topped by stunted vegetation with two ‘tree-daisies’ - the pale green Olearia lyalli and the darker green Brachyglottis stewartiae. Numerous sea birds sighted included moulting Snares Crested penguin, Sooty Shearwaters, Buller’s, Southern Royal and Shy Albatross along with Giant Petrels, Antarctic Terns, Red-billed Gulls, a Fairy Prion, Brown Skua, several Fern Birds, the Black Tomtit and numerous Cape Petrels with many in ‘rafts’. Bullers Albatross (Diomedia bulleri), one of the small albatross species we viewed today, were perhaps late breeders sitting on eggs. Many birds were also circling above the colonial nesting areas. The bird resembles the Grey-headed Albatross however Bullers have a bright yellow bill with a black edge. The Snares is one of the few places where albatross nest in the forest and there are an estimated 8700 breeding pairs here. At least 150 birds over two concentrations were seen on nests and from time to time calls resembling those made on a child’s ‘kazoo’ musical device, were heard by us as we passed below the nesting areas.
At least one Sea Lion and several colonies of adult Fur Seals along with some pups were in small colonies on large granite boulders that had fallen from the cliffs. Small islands off-shore had the occasional patch of vegetation and many rocks had curious features with one resembling an Easter Island statue. A ‘finger post’, one of three or four on North East Island, was seen on the skyline. These provided directions to the castaway depot. At 10am our five Zodiacs returned to the ship. All were unanimous that we had enjoyed a wonderful Zodiac practical to one of the most pristine habitats. We had a good view of the five islands as headed south passing the Western Chain of the Snares. During a quiet, relaxing afternoon Rodney gave a well- illustrated, introductory lecture for the Auckland Islands. This took in the human history with various phases; Sealing 1806-1820’s; Settlement by New Zealand Maori 1845-1856 and by Europeans 1849-1852; Shipwrecks/castaways 1864-1907; Farming 1874-1934; Wartime activities 1939-1945 and the present phase of island restoration and tourism. The scientific expeditions of 1840 to 1912 were also covered.
A second presentation by Rodney that afternoon focused on the essential quarantine requirements. Rodney stressed the danger of becoming ‘a vector for the transfer of seeds such as bidi-bids, along with disease, with Sea Lions being particularly susceptible.’ Vacuum cleaners were then made available to use on our packs, jackets, boots and other garments; particularly those with Velcro strips. It was a little rough this afternoon as we made good time south and anticipated anchoring in Port Ross at Enderby Island the following morning.



Day 3 Tuesday 11 February – Auckland Islands – Enderby Island
Noon position: Latitude 50^o30.398’South; Longitude 166^o16.576’ East
Air temperature 11^oC
Water temperature 11^oC
We had a comfortable night and an early start with breakfast at 6.30am followed by a briefing. This morning Adam found four South Georgian Diving Petrels on the decks, attracted by the ship’s lights during the night. From the ship we had an excellent view of Enderby Island with its stunted vegetation. To the left and right of Sandy Bay, the cliffs above an intertidal platform were comprised of volcanic columnar basalt encrusted with white and yellow lichen. The island was named after Charles Enderby of sealing fame. Before disembarking we were required to disinfect our footwear with ‘Virkon’. The sea was calm and by 9am we were being shuttled ashore to Sandy Bay beach.
It was pretty bleak with light rain and as soon as the long walk group set out. Unwanted gear was left in the old boat shed near a small collection of huts nearby which are owned by New Zealand’s Department of Conservation. Of interest nearby was a ‘finger post’ with inscriptions, perhaps by WW2 coast–watchers, giving direction to a castaway depot and the ‘Stella Hut’ in Southern Rata and primeval-looking Dracophyllum trees. Robin recalled a university field trip when a stunt took place to see if the so-called ‘turpentine tree’ (also called the ‘grass tree’) would light if had a match was applied and it did! Ten Yellow-eyed Penguins (Eudyptes chrysocome), emerged from the bush and after calling, headed down to the beach. Rodney gave a brief talk before both groups set out over a grassy sward, thence through Casinia vauvilliersii bushes and red-flowering Southern Rata to the start of the DoC board walk. This eventually saw the party on top of the island and crossing an extensive fell field. The windswept vegetation had a variety of plants in flower including young Southern Rata and the small endemic mauve and white Gentiana cerina. The large yellow-flowered mega herb Bulbinella rossii had finished flowering by this time. Beside the walkway we were privileged to have an excellent view of a nesting Southern Royal Albatross, one of around 60 pairs on the island. Also of interest were the bones of two young albatross, along with fish, shag and Teal; the latter perhaps taken by a Brown Skua.
Once across the island, a brief spell was spent enjoying the wild surface of the sea as waves crashed into cliffs far below. This gave an indication as to what it must have been like for people on the wrecked barque Derry Castle. The short walk group saw several Tomtits and Bellbirds in the bush along with endemic Pipits and Auckland Island Shags near the end of the boardwalk. The endemic Auckland Island Snipe (Coenocorypa aucklandica) was elusive today and because of mist obscuring the cliff face it was not possible for the short walk group to see the three Light-mantled Sooty Albatross chicks that we knew were there from the Expedition team’s last visit. As the light rain became heavier this party decided to return to Sandy Bay. With the breeding season over there were very few New Zealand (Hookers) Sea Lions on the beach, with pups likely to have been concealed in the scrub.
Those who completed the long walk, although putting up with wet conditions, very much enjoyed their hike. Howard was particularly interested in the vegetation; especially the Rata forest with the view into the basins. He appropriately summed up the seedling and adult plants as ‘natures gardening’. Malcolm was ‘impressed with the closeness of the birds that came up to me.’ The walkers were all rewarded with excellent sightings of numerous bird species. Examples included Red-crowned Parakeets with their plumage darker owing to rain; Tomtits; four Teal; Brown Skua; 3 or 4 Auckland Islands Snipe; Red Poll; Giant Petrels; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross chicks; Kelp Gulls; Antarctic Terns; Southern Royal Albatross; White-faced Heron; migrant Turnstones(?); a Bar-tailed Godwit and a Pied Oyster Catcher which Adam thought was a first for the island. Amongst the many mature Sea Lions were this season’s pups along with a large number New Zealand Fur Seals and an Elephant Seal. The removal of rabbits and other animals has led to a dramatic recovery of flora and fauna at this beautiful place and by 4pm six drums of aviation fuel had been put on the beach and we were all back aboard, with the passageways festooned with wet clothing.
Late afternoon it was very bleak outside and some of the smaller islands south of Enderby Island, were almost obscured by the mist. With the wind up, the sea was beginning to have a few white caps. We enjoyed an excellent meal once again which this time featured a venison stew marinated in Russian Baltika beer. Hot steamed date pudding with custard followed.



Day 4 Wednesday 12 February – Auckland Island
Noon position: Latitude 50^O50.635’ South; Longitude 165^O55.850’ East
Air temperature 18^oC
Water temperature 11^oC
We enjoyed a calm night during which the ship relocated to near the entrance of Carnley Harbour and two Diving Petrels attracted by the ship’s lights, landed on the deck. In the morning we entered the Western Arm of Carnley Harbour with Adams Island to port. The water was calm as a mill pond and the early sun coupled with mist about the tops, presented a wonderful photographic opportunity. Above sea level the bush with its high canopy appeared very dense, and consisted of Rata (mostly about to come into flower), Dracophyllum, Hebe and other species. Above the waterline with a mostly boulder shore and the seaweed D’Urvillea antarctica, a few mega-herbs were flowering and the glaciated landscape of Adams Island with its highest point Mt Dick (704m) made a superb sight. A briefing was held at 8.30am to discuss the plan for the day. We would split into two groups. The first would land on a wave-cut platform then climb up the steep hillside to about 200m to view nesting White-capped (Shy) Albatrosses. The remainder would go on a Zodiac cruise to the head of Western Harbour and investigate the possibility of going through the Victoria Passage to view the large albatross colony there.
Group A led by Rodney left at 9.15 and thirty minutes later the remainder of us boarded three Zodiacs driven by Martin, Chris and Adam for two hours of ornithology and sight-seeing. We slowly made our way to the head of the Western Harbour where on a terrace, archaeologists have investigated an early sealers’ camp site. The morning was excellent for birding with several Tui, Auckland Islands Shag, a New Zealand Falcon seen chasing two gulls, Black-backed (Kelp) and Red-billed Gulls with a well-developed chick of the former which according to Martin, resembled ‘a bottle brush on legs’, Brown Skua and a pair of Red Poll. Shortly before turning towards the Victoria Passage, three Sea Lions put on a magnificent display as they cavorted about the Zodiacs. Some time was spent enjoying their antics along with the sound of a female in the scrub, calling her pup. We then turned around Break Sea Point to pass through the strong tidal eddies and four metres of water, of the channel formed where the caldera of the Carnley Volcano had breached also forming Adams Island. Near the outer entrance was South West Cape.
This was a rare and exhilarating ride with large waves breaking at the base of volcanic cliffs, where the foaming water as it shot up the steep rock, was transformed into a beautiful shade of aquamarine. As we entered the open sea, to our left was Monumental Island with blocky stone shapes resembling the remains of a fortress. We soon came to steep cliffs consisting of lava flows with steep vegetated slopes with tussock, hebes and mega-herbs with some Anisotome latifolia in flower, providing a home for a vast number of White-capped Albatross nests. There were both single and pairs of birds along with a large number circling above. Mist flowed down the steep valleys and without sun it was an eerie place. Somewhere in the mist above was Group A. From here we headed back through the channel on the east side, towards the West Arm, passing two large off-shore volcanic rock stacks on the way and soon entered calmer waters with amazing clarity. Again we were treated to a further display by Sea Lions with numerous males and cows on nearby rocks. Further along the shore was a colony of shags. The Group A participants arrived back having enjoyed a good climb to the albatrosses although at times the party was in thick fog. They were however surprised to see a Sea Lion pup perhaps 100m up the steep hillside.
We had a late lunch with Bruce and Chris once again providing superb pizzas in two flavours. While having lunch the anchor was lifted and we proceeded to depart Carnley Harbour en-route for Macquarie Island. At 4pm Martin gave his first lecture. This was enticingly titled ‘There is nothing like a Happy Hooker’ and so attracted much interest. I proved to be a very interesting lecture on the Hooker (New Zealand) Sea Lion which included aspects of the life cycle and physiology, mortality and its causes, along with his work which took place from 1975 to1994. After an hour in the bar, we had dinner at the earlier time of 7pm and then retired hoping for calm seas.
 


Day 5 Thursday 13 February – en-route to Macquarie Island
Noon position: Latitude 53^o19.975’South; Longitude 161^o25.119’East
Air temperature 9^oC
Water temperature 10^oC
We enjoyed a more leisurely start to the day with breakfast at 8.30. It had been a comfortable night so most felt well rested for the day at sea. At 9.30am many of us had an excellent sighting of a pod with four Hourglass Dolphins when some good photographs were taken. A second pod of six dolphins was seen at 11.15. This morning also we benefited from a calm sea. We crossed east of the Campbell plateau and good conditions enabled the Spirit of Enderby to maintain a good speed of 11.8 knots. By noon we were over 3840m of water and the Emerald Basin. The Sea Shop was opened so we could purchase quality books, clothing, post cards and mementoes from the trip. Later in the morning Adam gave an excellent lecture entitled ‘Penguins of the Southern Ocean-everything you need to know about these charismatic birds’. He began with the evolution of penguins and told us about the origin of the name penguin (perhaps from the Welsh)-Pen-Gwyn, which was given to the Great Auk, extinct since 1844. We also leant that they evolved several million years ago with 40 species now extinct. Some of these are found in the New Zealand fossil record. Today there are only 17 species with six different genera and a curious aspect of breeding with the crested penguins is the laying of two eggs with one larger than the other; the smaller not hatching. The well-illustrated lecture informed us of the various penguin species with maps also showing their distribution.
After lunch Martin screened an NZBC DVD entitled ‘Yesterdays Gold’ which focused on one expedition hoping to locate the wreck of the General Grant that sank on 13 May 1866 with the loss of 68 lives. The ship later proved from the presence of metric fittings to be the Anjou. TheGeneral Grant along with the manifested 2600 ounces of gold has remained elusive. Martin, who participated in the 1975 expedition, appeared in the film discussing the Hookers Sea Lion.
By 5pm we were 56 nautical miles from Macquarie Island as we assembled in the lecture room where Rodney presented an excellent introduction to the island in which he also discussed the island’s long human history. By early evening we had our first glimpse of the long, narrow island which lies along the boundary of the Australia-Pacific Plate. Macquarie Island achieved World Heritage status in 1997, with this based on the unique geology including oceanic crust, volcanic and sedimentary rocks. The island began emerging 600-700,000 years ago and because the land is continually rising, earthquakes are a regular occurrence. With the calm sea, it was good to spend time on the bow and in addition to cloud-capped Macquarie away to starboard we could see the Judge and Clerk Islands. As we neared our overnight anchorage off Buckles Bay, we saw the occasional penguin. In Rodney’s words we had had a “dream run” with exceptionally calm conditions from Auckland Island. With another pleasant day over, many of us enjoyed an after-dinner drink in the bar as we looked forward to landing on Macquarie.

Day 6 Friday 14 February – Macquarie Island – Sandy Bay
St. Valentine’s Day
Noon position: Latitude 54^o34.036’ South; Longitude 158^o54.041’ East
Air temperature 10^oC
Water temperature 7^oC
With a calm sea last evening we had an excellent sleep and rose to a sunny morning with scattered cloud. Four staff from the Australian station boarded after breakfast using three Zodiacs which is a safety requirement. A briefing was held at 9.30 when we were introduced to the Macquarie staff. Chris Howard the Ranger; Barry Becker from the Bureau of Meteorology; Jimmy Pitcher the Chef and Mike Goldstein a Plant Operator. Rodney explained the need for quarantine measures and these were emphasised by Chris who said that only yesterday, an introduced grass species found in Australia and New Zealand had been identified.
The Zodiac operation to put us all ashore began at 10am and we landed in beautifully calm conditions. Once ashore, Chris outlined further instructions and we were then left to enjoy ourselves. Soon many of us were taking photos at close range of the inquisitive King Penguins. We had earlier observed many swimming near the ship, occasionally emitting their distinctive calls and were impressed with the gorgeous colouration of the head. This ranged from cadmium orange on the ‘ear-patches’ to a burnt sienna on the throat, then fading into a pale lemon-yellow and finally white on the breast. Nearby were an estimated 30 grunting, moulting Elephant Seals which resembled large, brown, logs of wood and sounded like pigs or hippos. Beside the landing area and taking care not to slip, some of us walked to the rocky reef where large fronds of the seaweed D’Urvillea antarctica drifted to and fro in rocky channels. Some Macquarie Island Shags and Antarctic Terns were present along with numerous Giant Petrels including White Morphs. A short distance away was the King Penguin colony with large and small chicks, some of which were well developed. A few adults were perhaps sitting on eggs and there was no sign of any ‘oakum-boys’, the large downy chicks from last season. Opportunistic Brown Skuas were keeping clear of adult penguins and waiting for a chance to take a young chick. An old hut standing nearby was linked to the early days of ANARE and in a previous life had been an aircraft crate. This now stands derelict but in the past had been used by scientists. Links with the sealing era are now under sand. At the other end of the beach near Finch’s Creek, many Royal Penguins at various stages of moulting were present.
Taking care to avoid three Elephant Seals we took a walk up an excellent boardwalk to the Royal penguin colony. This was a hive of activity with commuting, sleeping, fighting and the preening of chicks (some clustered in crèches) or sleeping. During his visit, Adam saw a Giant Petrel cause a stampede when it ran at a group of moulting Royal Penguins. The noise from the birds was extraordinary and the odour left a lot to be desired. Also of interest was the extent of flora rejuvenation, since the rabbit eradication programme. This morning care was taken to maintain a five metre distance from wildlife although with the King Penguins in particular this was difficult. The weather was beautiful although Barry said he missed wearing his shorts and tee-shirt. At 1pm we were back on board and after lunch there was another opportunity for us to revisit Sandy Bay and further enhance our collection of photographs. Such was the enthusiasm that some cameras stored several hundred images. Would we have done the same in the days of slide or print film? Once again our hard working chefs Bruce and Chris produced a magnificent meal with trays of antipasto and fine New Zealand Gurnard or roast rump of lamb for the main. On this occasion we were pleased to have the four Macquarie Island staff with us for the evening and immensely enjoyed discussing their work with them as we looked forward to visiting the station in the morning.
 


Day 7 Saturday 15 February – Macquarie Island – Buckles Bay – Lusitania Bay – en-route to Antarctica.
Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton’s birthday (1874)
Noon position: Latitude 54o30.317’ South; Longitude 158^o50.918’ East
Air temperature 7.3^oC
Water temperature 10^oC
One again we enjoyed a comfortable night and woke to a sunny morning, with a moderate north-west wind and slight choppy sea. As with yesterday, numerous penguins with King and also on this occasion Gentoo and Rockhopper were swimming around the ship. At the 8.30 briefing Rodney advised that we could expect a wet landing on rocks because of the swell which comes in via a seaweed free channel, through which the Zodiac enters and then has a stern approach to the shore. Landings began at 9.30 and within 30 minutes Martin and Adam had us all ashore (albeit a bit damp). Once ashore we assembled into groups with Macquarie Island and our own staff taking us on a tour of the isthmus and the Australian station. This morning we had our first viewing of Gentoo Penguins and were led via a track, past grunting Elephant Seals sprawled amongst large clumps of course Poa anua tussock grass. Our walk took us up an excellent boardwalk with viewing platforms, leading to the top of Razorback, a rocky ridge below which Douglas Mawson established his first hut at the start of the Australasian Expedition on 8 January 1912. Behind the ANARE (Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions) station is Wireless Hill, where Mawson’s men established the original communication link between Antarctica and Australia. From the Razorback viewing platform there was excellent viewing northward over the isthmus towards the Station and across the isthmus to the west and east. We were fortunate to view Light-Mantled Sooty Albatross and a few Redpolls which are not endemic as this bird arrived independently many years ago.
The walk along the coarse grey sand beach on the west side of the isthmus was interesting and here a number of Gentoo Penguins, Giant Petrels, Brown Skuas, Campbell Island Shags along with Antarctic Terns were observed. Hasselborough Bay was named after Captain Frederick Hasselborough who discovered Macquarie Island in July 1810 (because of an earlier wreck this is questioned) and was later drowned at Campbell Island. Rocks were covered with bright yellow, crustose, salt-tolerant, lichen. The tour continued to the Station where very hospitable ‘Macca’ staff provided scones, tea and coffee for ‘smoko’ (morning tea). The Postmaster was also on duty selling stamps and postcards, the latter a contribution to a charity. Some of us enjoyed meeting the Station Leader Mark and Clive the Station Doctor gave our Dr John a tour of the medical facilities. Of interest in the staff Mess Hall was the bar area with personally labelled bottles; photographs of winter-over personnel, a display of rocks and minerals and comfortable lounge furniture. Elsewhere was a good stock of ‘homers’ (home-brew) for the winter months ahead. Meghan arranged for our passports to be stamped and delivered mail unlikely to arrive until after our return. Local buildings including one of the oldest, a ‘donga’ (sleeping quarters) were shown along with other components including the communications dome made of Kevlar-type material and containing two satellite dishes and the ‘garden’ - a neatly mown area of grass with instruments of the Australian Meteorological Bureau, operating since 1948. Included was a Stevenson’s screen with thermometers, soil thermometers, rain gauges and a Campbell Stokes glass sphere sunshine recorder. The latter operating as a magnifying glass burns a trace on a graduated strip of card, thereby recording sunshine hours. At the station were links with the sealers – iron try pots used to render blubber from Elephant Seals. Near the landing we saw some of the steam digesters used for rendering penguin oil; these associated with a former Mayor of Invercargill and entrepreneur Joseph Hatch. The interpretation panels here were excellent and described the equipment and rendering process for the large rusting iron ‘pressure cookers’. At 12.15pm we saw a meteorological balloon with a radiosonde (instrument package) released by the Australian Bureau of Meteorology. It was then time to return to the ship and en-route the Zodiacs took a quick look at the Rockhopper penguin colony.
By 2pm with anchors raised, we were moving down the east coast of Macquarie Island and an hour later had a good view of the large King Penguin colony at Lusitania Bay in which we could see three rusting steam digesters, now surrounded by penguins. As Rodney said, eventually the digesters will have rusted away and the penguins will have reclaimed their home on the coast. The afternoon was sunny and we were treated with fine views of the island with craggy cliffs was superb. Soon we had reached Hurd Point, the location of a vast Royal Penguin colony with about 200,000 breeding pairs and from here turned south toward Antarctica. We now have 771.5 nautical miles to travel to the Antarctic Circle located at 66⁰33.3’ and we should be helped considerably by the 30 knot north-easterly presently chasing us along. The remainder of the day passed quietly and provided a good opportunity to catch up with our diaries and to enjoy our photographs. Robin said it was quite spectacular to see the moon rise above the horizon at 9.30 pm.
 


Day 8 Sunday 16 February – en-route to Antarctica
Crossed 60^oSouth and now in the area of the Antarctic Treaty
Noon position: Latitude 58^o20.676’ South; Longitude 161^o45.333’ East
Air temperature 8^oC
Water temperature 5^oC
We had a good sleep last night and got up to a cloudy morning and moderate sea with scattered white-caps. Rodney anticipated that the wind would move around to 30 knots from the north which would aid our comfort during the day, rather than having a westerly on the beam as is often the case. Lectures were postponed this morning. We did however enjoy time with our photographs along with scrabble and card playing which has proved popular. This morning the rules for the First Iceberg Sighting Competition were put on the notice board. These were:
* No staff or crew; no bribes
*Iceberg must be at least the size of a double-decker bus above water
* Must be seen by eye, not radar
* Entries close today at 7.30 pm
During this morning we reached a waypoint and turned at 159.9 to a new heading. We were now over 4000m of water, the sea was up a little and we were making 12.7 knots. Apart from a Wandering Albatross and the occasional petrel, not a lot of birdlife was about. We were informed that this was likely to change when we crossed the Antarctic Convergence (a temperature and salinity boundary of the Southern Ocean) about 90 nautical miles south of Macquarie. The sea temperature would then fall 4-6^oC (winter 1-3^oC) to 2-3^oC and we should then observe more species of oceanic birds owing to the upwelling of nutrients and as we moved further south. As Jo put it, today was a ‘pyjama day’. We did however watch two excellent documentaries. The first focused on the A$24 million rabbit eradication programme on Macquarie Island. This was followed by ‘The Silence Calling’ by well known Australian journalist Tim Bowden, who compiled the 50^thJubilee history on ANARE. By the evening the wind had backed around to the west, creating two metre swells on a confused sea. At 7pm we were at 59^o45.513’South; 162^o22.068’East and by 8.30 the ship was doing 13.5 knots on both engines. Rodney said he could not recall having such a good run during these expeditions. However we took his advice and with the ship expected to roll during the night, we made our possessions secure. Today was also significant as we crossed 60^oSouth and were now in the area covered by the Antarctic Treaty.
 
Day 9 Monday 17 February – en-route to Antarctica – Antarctic Convergence crossed –Ingrid sights the 1^st iceberg
Noon position: Latitude 62^o30.965’ South; Longitude 165^o38.401’ East
Air temperature 4^oC
Water temperature 3^oC
By this morning the wind had gone around to the west. The ship rolled quite a bit and really picked up at 3am. At 8am the water temperature was 3^o indicating we were crossing the Antarctic Convergence with the temperature the same at noon. The sea was quite angry and late morning a squall with sleet passed by. By mid-afternoon it showed signs of abating, with only the occasional large wave and the largest roll registered at 30^o. In the meantime we continued to make progress with a speed of 11-12 knots being maintained along with a heading of 157^o. Not a lot was done after lunch and the bridge continued to have a few observers eager to see the first iceberg. By 4.30pm we were over 2000 metres of water with a temperature of 2.2^oC and the sea was still in a confused state. At 5.07pm the first iceberg was sighted by Ingrid who won a bottle of wine; Latitude 63^o21.386’S.
Before dinner we had a quiz with six of the eight groups scoring the optimum total. The Captain made a slight course change for the evening meal, making it more comfortable for everyone including the galley and those serving plated food and drinks. The water temperature at 8.45pm had fallen further to 1.9/2^oC so it would be interesting to see what this would be in the morning. We expected to cross the Antarctic Circle in the morning and at noon on Wednesday, all going well would be at Cape Adare, the site of the first winter spent by an expedition on the Antarctic mainland.



Day 10 Tuesday 18 January – en-route to Antarctica 
Antarctic Circle Latitude 33^o 33.3 South crossed  
Noon position: Latitude 66^o20.639’ South; Longitude 169^o46.778’ East
Air temperature 3^oC
Water temperature 1^oC
A large iceberg was sighted at 9.30 am with further bergs later in the morning. Today we received our Antarctic jackets, not an easy job for staff as they had to be brought up from the rear hold and carried over a deck at times awash with water. At 10.15 am a course change was made with the Spirit of Enderby now heading due south on longitude 170^o, in the direction of Cape Adare. By lunch time we were able to see a further two bergs and the occasional bergy-bit passing the ship. The Antarctic Circle 33^o33.3’South was crossed at 1.15pm and following lunch (chicken curry and poppadums) we assembled in the library at 2 pm for a ceremony to mark our crossing of the Circle. Rodney and Martin then dispensed a generous measure of mulled wine and Rodney read the following:
‘By anyone’s standards this event is an auspicious occasion-very few people have crossed the Antarctic Circle by ship. So on this occasion we want to both celebrate the occasion and acknowledge its importance.
Today each one of us joins a unique group of explorers that have gone before us, not only showing us the way, but giving us courage to follow and to make our own destiny. We follow explorers such as Sir James Clark Ross, Robert Falcon Scott, Sir Ernest Shackleton, Roald Amundsen, Sir Douglas Mawson, Richard Byrd, Sir Edmund Hillary and others who pioneered new routes south of the Circle. Today we acknowledge them and their efforts.
Crossing the Circle also carries with it responsibility-a responsibility that those explorers who went before us took seriously which is part of the reason that we are here today. They advocated for the protection of these lands and wildlife that inhabited them, ensuring that future generations would have them to enjoy.
So today as we cross the Circle, I would like each of you to take this vow and receive the Mark of the Penguin-as evidence that you have crossed the Antarctic Circle and have taken the pledge which I am going to ask you to say after me.
Having endured the privations of the Roaring Forties, the rigours of the Furious Fifties and the ice-strewn waters of the Screaming Sixties to cross the Antarctic Circle, pay homage to those early explorers who have not only shown the way, but have demonstrated what it means to advocate for the continued protection of Antarctica and its wildlife and history. I [put own name]hereby pledge that in accepting the Mark of the Penguin will, until I take my last expedition, advocate to everybody, even those who will not listen, the importance of the Antarctic and its wildlife and history.
Would you please step forward and receive the Mark of the Penguin.’
This was applied to the forehead by Adam and many photographs were taken.
About 2 pm fog (often an indicator of passing over the Antarctic Convergence) appeared and was followed by light snow which persisted off and on during the afternoon. Lauren from Australia was especially interested as she had not previously seen snow.
In the afternoon David gave his first history lecture. This was entitled ‘Forerunner to the “heroic-era” - from Ross to Borchgrevink 1841-1900’. The lecture began with the early voyages of D’Urville, Wilkes and Ross with the latter discovering the Ross Sea in 1841. The first landing however on the Victoria Land coast, according to the log book, may have been from Captain Cooper’s sealer Levant in 1853. This was followed by a landing from the whaler Antarctic at Cape Adare in 1895. In 1898 the Belgica had during De Gerlache’s expedition spent the winter off the Antarctic Peninsula. The following year, the first winter spent by an expedition on the continent took place with ten men at Cape Adare in 1899. The British Antarctic Expedition or Southern Cross Expedition (after the ship) in 1898-1900 obtained valuable scientific data, however was not without problems as biologist, 28 year-old Nicolai Hanson, died and was buried on top of Cape Adare.
At 4 pm Rodney gave the next lecture ‘The Antarctic Treaty System with special reference to tourism’. This very much applies to us as we are south of Latitude 60^o and are under the governance of the Treaty. This talk focused on the Antarctic Treaty System and its governance; IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tourism Operators) and obligations, were each covered along with what we hope to achieve during our visit to the Ross Sea region. The origin of the Treaty, originally 12 Consultative Members, along with those with observer and non-voting status and Claimants; Articles of the Treaty and duties required by such organisations as Heritage Expeditions was carefully explained.
By late afternoon the sea had calmed considerably and before dinner a second quiz held had an overall winner with 9 points out of the 13 required. The galley once again produced a superb, nicely presented meal, with the main either monkfish or pork belly. At 8.45 pm we still had 201 nautical miles to go before reaching Cape Adare where we had fingers crossed for a landing. Rodney pointed out that we will not really know the conditions until arriving at around 2pm. The evening was quite bleak outside, however we continue to make good progress and looked likely to be near the entrance to the Ross Sea by the following evening.
 
Day 11 Wednesday 19 February – Cape  Adare 
Noon position: Latitude 70^o34.074’ South; Longitude 169^o53.226’ East
Air temperature -2^oC
Water temperature 0^oC
This morning we were pleased to see a calmer sea and the sun shining. Unfortunately this did not last as there was soon full cloud cover and light snow falling. A few Snow Petrels and an Antarctic Petrel were about the ship and by 8am the wind had picked up and a two metre swell was beginning to make the ship roll. The wind from the south-east was gusting to 35/40 knots. The first entertainment of the day was the showing of the documentary ‘The Last Ocean’. This excellent programme focused on the tooth fish and covered such aspects as the biology; research undertaken along with aspects still to be found out; fishing and impact on the fishery and opinions of scientists along with the need for creation of a marine reserve in the Ross Sea. This screening was followed by a lecture from Martin entitled ‘Whales and Humans’. This presentation began with evidence of rock drawings done in Norway 6,000 years ago followed by details of exploitation by various peoples around the world; evolution of the IWC (International Whaling Commission) founded in 1946; whaling by Russia in 1949 to c.1964; the present status of whales and finally discussion on tourism.
By lunchtime the sea was still rough with swells from the south-east not very pleasant. Speed was reduced from 11 to six knots. After lunch Part One of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ was screened and by mid-afternoon we were having our first glimpse of the Antarctic continent. The sea had also moderated. David gave his second presentation at 4.30 pm. ‘Antarctica Unveiled –Scott’s first expedition 1901-1904’ focused on the many achievements relating to geographical discovery and science during the expedition. Of interest was David’s contact with retired Auckland architect Reginald Ford, a steward on the ship Discovery, Edward Wilson’s early interest in the life cycle of the Emperor penguin further studied during Scott’s 1910-1913 expedition, discovery of the Polar Plateau and one of the Dry Valleys.
By early evening we had a view of Cape Adare on the northern tip of the Adare Peninsula. The feature was named by Sir James Clark Ross for his friend Viscount Adare MP for Glamorganshire in Wales. The ship was now surrounded by bergy-bits and pieces of ice floes some of which had brown staining of phytoplankton (minute single-celled plant life or diatoms), a key component of the Antarctic marine food chain and food for zooplankton including krill. At least 30 large icebergs, some with delicate tints of blue, were also the perfect photographic subjects for many of us. Anne’s camera (actually a rapid firing machine gun or Canon) captured many images of a Snow Petrel, a large number of which were about the ship. In the lee of the Adare Peninsula, the sea gradually calmed and by 5.35 pm the ship was in Robertson Bay where we had an excellent view of the two 1899 Borchgrevink huts along with the porch of Scott’s 1911 Northern Party hut. On Ridley Beach Doctor John calculated there were perhaps 750 Adelie Penguins beside North Beach. Adam considered these were probably moulting birds or birds which were late developers and unlikely to survive. The remainder of the guano covered spit (correctly termed a cuspate foreland) appeared to be clear of penguins. Many Skuas which would soon begin their migration to the northern hemisphere, including as far as Japan, were flying overhead.
We enjoyed excellent views of the Warning Glacier, Duke of York Island and large glaciers descending from the mountains to the coast. The high peaks of the Admiralty Range however were hidden by cloud. Unfortunately the southerly had resulted in an extensive strip of push-ice along both North and South Beaches, preventing access by Zodiac. Near the end of Cape Adare, only Rose, one of the ‘Sisters’ present on Borchgrevink’s expedition, was still standing. Gertrude toppled over some years ago. We also enjoyed the excellent view of the volcanic rocks in the cliffs with black and brown shades of rock. At 6.45pm the ship was positioned at 71^o18.666 South as we enjoyed a meal of venison pie or chicken, both of which were superb, without ship movement. Lauren was asked what she thought of the vista surrounding the ship and summed it up with ‘This is the most amazing thing I have ever experienced.’ At 10pm the anchor was lifted and we began a journey of 340 nautical miles to Ross Island so will have a sea day tomorrow. While we were disappointed not to land on Ridley Beach, we did have excellent viewing of the huts at this now desolate place, with most of the penguins having left.



Day 12 Thursday 20 February – Ross Sea
Noon position: Latitude 72^o53’ South; Longitude 170^o55’ East
Air temperature -5^oC
Water temperature 0^oC
We awoke to overcast conditions and rough seas and by 8am we had passed Hallett Peninsula. The ship was now forging through widely spaced southerly rollers at just over six knots. The sea was fairly shallow here with a depth less than 300 metres. This is the area where tooth fish and fishing boats tend to congregate. Occasionally frozen spray was seen on the bridge windows and by 9.30am driving snow had begun and the sea had swells around four metres. The temperature was -4.6^oC and the wind chill -23^oC. A 32 knot wind did not prevent a solitary South Polar Skua from paying a visit. Apart from this there was little other bird life present.
An excellent documentary filmed at the penguin colony at Cape Bird informed us about the life cycle of the Adelie penguin. As a result of viewing ‘Icebird’ we now have a much better understanding of the species which we will see on Ross Island. Later in the morning David gave his next presentation called ‘A Charismatic Hero’. This focused on the British Antarctic (Nimrod) Expedition 1907-1909 led by Ernest Shackleton whose winter over hut at Cape Royds, we look forward to visiting this week. The lecture focused on the establishment of Cape Royds hut. Cape Royds was named by Scott in 1902 after Lieutenant Royds on the Discovery. Major scientific and geographical accomplishments included the first ascent of Mt. Erebus and three long sledging journeys to within 98 miles of the Geographic South Pole, attainment for the first time of the Magnetic South Pole, along with a western geological expedition in South Victoria Land. The sponsored Arrol Johnston motor car taken, although having limited use, marked the introduction of mechanised transport in Antarctica. On return to Britain Shackleton was knighted and by now Scott was immersed in planning his British Antarctic Expedition 1910-1913 that would commence the following year.
By early afternoon the wind had turned to a westerly of about 15 knots and we were picking up speed. We were making good progress down the Ross Sea and passing to starboard volcanic Coulman Island. This large island was named by Ross in 1841, for his father-in-law Thomas Coulman. In 1902 Scott at the beginning of his National Antarctic (Discovery) Expedition 1901-1904, left a message post at Cape Wadworth on the northern end, for the relief ship Morning the following summer. The ice-capped island is three miles (4.8km) long and the highest point is 1998m (6555ft) while at the northern end, is a point at 640m. A beautiful icefall was near Cape Anne at the southern end and talus cones had formed below steep couloirs (steep, rocky, snow-filled, gullies). By 3pm the sea had calmed considerably with few white-caps to be seen. An hour later Rodney advised that the 110 passenger ship Orion had a problem with the ship’s cooling system and had requested assistance. We briefly retraced our track, although the ship required no further help. The Orion requested details for a possible anchorage and Rodney was able to suggest Robertson Bay.
Part 2 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ was screened as we continued our journey on a course of 162^o. Occasional belts of brash ice and bergy-bits provided interest along with a good view of the south end of Coulman Island, the top of which was obscured by cloud. Black volcanic rock was protruding through snow and ice while the coast had a long strip of ice with a cliff around 30 metres high. Beyond Cape Anne the Mariner and Borchgrevink Glacier Tongues were partially visible through the murk to the west and two nice bergs were passed. Few birds apart from a Snow Petrel and a Light-mantled Sooty Albatross had been seen. This evening the bar opened at the usual time and a third quiz session with Martin as quiz master, again caused much hilarity. By 9pm we had 207 nautical miles to go before we reached Ross Island. It was a beautiful evening with a bright sun and 30-40 Snow Petrels about the ship. Meghan noticed two Skuas with ice on the breast feathers and the sea had an unusual green tinge due to phytoplankton. Later as the sun set at 11pm, the scattered clouds had pink tinged edges which showed promise for a fine new day.
 
Day 13 Friday 21 February – Ross Sea – McMurdo Sound  – Ross Island; Cape Royds
Noon position: Latitude 76^o13.3’ South; Longitude 166^o43.2’ East
Air temperature -4^oC
Water temperature 0^oC
This morning the sun rose at 5am and we were greeted with an almost cloud-free and sunny morning. A Snow Petrel had taken up residence on the bow deck crane which was not surprising given the number about last evening. Soon after 8am Adam announced the presence of around four Minke Whales and by 9am we had passed Franklin Island off to port. Ahead Beaufort Island was visible along with the summit of Mt Erebus protruding above a layer of cloud. Many of us were on deck enjoying the brisk, fresh air as we watched the Bosun and one of the sailors using wooden mallets to knock accumulated ice off the bow and anchor winch gear. At 9.45am we were at 76^o13.943’S 167^o34.479’E.
Part 3 of Roland Huntford’s ‘Last Place on Earth’ was screened in the morning, followed by David’s presentation ‘Triumph and Tragedy’ which also concerned Scott’s ill-fated expedition. This lecture using whiteboard maps, outlined the various components of the expedition and covered the well known polar journey along with reference to that by Amundsen, who arrived a month ahead of Scott, Wilson, Bowers, Oates and Petty Officer Evans. The morning continued to be warm and sunny. Many were on deck and Gill was entranced at the contrast between the blue of the sky and the vivid white of snow slopes. Off Beaufort Island some icebergs had interesting greenish layers of ice. By 1.30 pm we were entering McMurdo Sound with an excellent view of Cape Bird with its ice cliffs tinged aquamarine and of Mt Bird, both places named by Ross in 1841 after Lieutenant Edward J. Bird of the ship Erebus. Exposed pale brown and grey rock was striped as if done by a machine with the surface made prominent by snow. On the far side of McMurdo Sound and beneath cumulus cloud we had an excellent view of the Trans-Antarctic Mountains.
Rodney assembled us in the lecture room after lunch and discussed landings and plans for the next few days. The Cape Royds landing commenced shortly after and having sighted a further three Minke Whales, we were soon standing on Black Sand Beach. This was located a short distance from Cape Royds, named after Lieutenant Charles W.R. Royds meteorologist on Scott’s Discovery expedition. There were a few Adelie Penguins and Weddell Seals near our landing site. Once everyone was ashore we began a 40 minute hike over a ‘moonscape’ of grey Kenyte volcanic scoria and rock including pillow lava along with scattered erratic of granite and other rocks dropped by melting glacier ice. These had originated from rocks on the far side of McMurdo Sound. The walk was certainly needed as with the exception of the stairwells and the decks, we had not had a great deal of exercise and had been very well fed!
We were soon at our destination. Only 40 at any one time were able to enter the SPA (Specially Protected Area) No 157 in which Shackleton’s hut erected in 1908 is located. A total of eight people at a time was allowed inside the hut which has now been restored and is administered by the Antarctic Heritage Trust. Here we enjoyed photographing such items as Shackleton’s signature on a packing case board, used for a headboard on the improvised bed made by Frank Wild; three hams and a side of bacon in the galley; the huge Mrs Sam coal range from which we could imagine the aroma of fresh bread or a large pie being baked and stood on the hut floor, beneath which are cached cases of whisky and brandy. Karen in anticipation of reaching Shackleton,s hut found the walk to the hut a perfect introduction. Caroline H who was familiar with books and had visited Shackleton’s grave on South Georgia, found the visit her ‘biggest thrill’. Most of us also viewed moulting Adelie Penguins near the hut or walked around the northern perimeter of SPA No 121 which contains the most southern Adelie Penguin colony in the world. As we walked back to Black Sand Beach, we passed a small green wannigan that was David’s accommodation during several summers, when along with others he undertook work for the Antarctic Heritage Trust. Back on board a very convivial gathering was held in the bar/library, followed by a sumptuous meal. Most decided to have an early night in anticipation of a long day ahead, as the ship ‘drifted’ in McMurdo Sound.



Day 14 Saturday 22 February – McMurdo Sound – Ross Island; Cape Evans ; Scott Base; Observation Hill
Furthest south – 77^o51.374’ South; 166^o46.878’E at 2.24 p.m
Noon position: Latitude 77^o37.78’ South; Longitude 166^o20.783’ East
Air temperature -6^oC
Water temperature 0^oC
The wake-up call from Meghan had us up and about at 6.15 am. At 8am it was -7^oC outside and bitterly cold from the light southerly. We arrived on a good sandy area below the ice foot right outside Scott’s Terra Nova expedition hut. Here Rodney had set out the boot brushes and mat and Sarndra checked each person prior to entering. David was soon inside the 15x7 metre building which is within SPA No. 155. Here a total of 12 could be inside at any one time and the balance of the 40 within the SPA, was able to explore the immediate vicinity at leisure, taking in the many artefacts including the memorial to the three men who died in 1916. As with our visit to Shackleton’s hut, David carefully explained the occupancy and stories behind many of the artefacts. Although for the AHT the emphasis is Scott’s last expedition, the presence of the ten marooned men (this later reduced to seven)was very evident in the form of blubber-smoke-stained walls and ceiling, improvised clothing, a cache of seal blubber and a poignant inscription by R.W Richards GC of that expedition. The inside of the hut was cold but it was far colder outside. However we could not get away from the fact that from here Scott, Wilson, Bowers, Oates and Petty Officer Edgar Evans, had probably walked out of the same door as we had entered, never to return.
This visit was very special for three of our number. Robin Burton’s grandfather had served on Scott’s ship SS Terra Nova and completed the three voyages to Antarctica. Malcolm Thomson’s father and his son Michael’s grandfather was Lieutenant Leslie Thomson who was First Officer on the SY Aurora. This surely has to be unique in the history of Scott’s hut and indeed this voyage. While waiting outside in the cold wind, many of us walked around the hut inspecting two anchors from the ship Aurora of the Shackleton Ross Sea party 1914-1917. These were left on the beach after the ship was cast adrift in a blizzard in May 1915. Other items of interest were the meteorological screen, pony and dog lines, southern stores dump and the memorial cross to Lieutenant Aeneas Mackintosh, Victor Hayward and the Rev. Arnold P. Spencer-Smith on Wind Vane Hill. Some fine icebergs between Cape Evans and Inaccessible Island along with the beautiful blue of the ice cliffs on the Barne Glacier provided a further photo opportunity and near the Antarctic Heritage Trust field huts, were two Emperor Penguins with one having completed moulting. This was a bonus for our visit.
We were back on board by 11am and the ship was relocated to opposite New Zealand’s Scott Base which was founded in 1957. After lunch Rodney arranged for us to have a brief spell ashore and we were able to walk around the front of the base and inspect the flag pole from Scott’s Discovery expedition; the Maori carving; memorial plaques to four New Zealanders who have died during service with the New Zealand programme; AA sign and to have a view of the base buildings frontage, including the first hut erected at Scott Base. From the ship we had an excellent view of the edge on the McMurdo Ice Shelf on which five Emperor Penguins were briefly seen.
At 4pm the ship again moved to Cape Armitage, named after Albert Armitage, Second in Command and Navigator on Discovery during the expedition. Twenty four of us took the opportunity to walk up the aptly named Observation Hill (230m), used on the ‘heroic-era’ expeditions as a lookout. It was a steep climb on loose volcanic rock. The climb was well worth it however as on reaching the summit we were able to inspect the memorial cross erected in 1913 to the memory of Scott, Wilson, Bowers, Oates and Petty Officer Evans and enjoy the outstanding views. Care was necessary on the descent and all enjoyed the opportunity to see the very special memorial. Those who remained on board enjoyed a relaxing afternoon. Mike Potts from Wales along with Martin in between his Zodiac driving, were both able to enjoy their water-colour paints and added to their personal records of the expedition. This evening we anchored in readiness for the next morning’s activity. A convivial hour with much laughter was spent in the bar library, followed by an early night in readiness for the next adventure ashore.

Day 15 Sunday 23 February – McMurdo Sound – Ross Island; McMurdo Station; Discovery Hut; Cape Crozier; Ross Ice Shelf
Noon position: Latitude 77^o51.045’ South; Longitude 166^o38.586’ East
Air temperature -10^oC
Water temperature 0^oC
Today we got up to an overcast cold morning with temperatures around -11^oC. We went ashore at 9am and landed on a small sand beach with low ice-foot behind at the head of Winter Quarters Bay. Along the edge of the ice foot, were globules of ice and clusters of short icicles. McMurdo Station was very quiet with few people about and almost resembled a ghost town, although steam from some of the buildings indicated much warmer conditions within. Rodney arranged us into two groups. The first group walked with Sarndra and David. They crossed over part of the artificial floating ice pier made by pumping seawater and building to required thickness within surrounding berms, to the road above and then along to Discovery hut. Here the SPA stipulates that only seven people can be inside the hut at any one time. It was bitterly cold out and we were pleased to have taken advice to wrap up warmly. At the hut the Antarctic Heritage Trust had containers on sledges nearby. These contained equipment, timber and other items for conservation work. We were interested in the Trust’s display panels along with a bronze plaque unveiled by HRH Princess Anne in 2002. The plaque commemorated the centenary of the start of Scott’s Discovery expedition and the launch of the Trust’s Ross Sea Heritage Restoration Project.
Near the hut was the memorial cross erected in 1904 to the memory of George Vince RN, who died when he fell over an ice cliff known as Danger Slopes nearby. Most of us inspected this and looked over the sea towards Cape Evans, sadly not reached by Mackintosh and Hayward in 1916. This sad story is told in the book Polar Castaways. The historic hut is undergoing extensive restoration including repairs with timber compatible to that originally used, replacing ‘patch-ups’ done over the years. Most of the artefacts are in storage while conservators work on them and the task is scheduled for completion next summer. Inside the hut David briefly explained the occupancy and how the 1902-04 building had served later expeditions; in particular, the Ross Sea Party in 1915-1916, who regarded the place as a sanctuary. Rodney had also arranged for us to have a short walking tour of McMurdo Station and we were able to see such places as the Admiral Byrd bronze bust by renowned sculptor Felix de Welden; flags of the signatories to the Antarctic Treaty and the Chapel of the Snows.
By 11am we were able to defrost in the warmth of the ship and at noon as we were departing, a pod of 20-30 Orca the largest of the dolphins, were seen off the bow. The Captain now turned the ship northwards and we headed up McMurdo Sound with excellent views of the Erebus icefall and other features, while to the west we had a good view up the Ferrar Glacier, Bowers Piedmont Glacier and the entrance to the Taylor Dry Valley. Numerous icebergs and bergy-bits were about and by now the sea was picking up again. The afternoon quickly came and went with wonderful opportunities for landscape photography as we continued up McMurdo Sound. At 3.30pm we took a break in the Lecture Room with a viewing of the award-winning New Zealand Natural History Unit film ‘Solid Water Liquid Rock’. This focused on benthic life and the sea ice in McMurdo Sound along with the volcano Mt. Erebus. By early evening we were passing the Cape Bird field station on our way towards Cape Crozier and the Ross Ice Shelf. The higher ground on Cape Bird was obscured by cloud and although the sea was now calmer by 6pm all land was obscured. An hour later a forbidding coastline of undulating ice cliffs with occasional areas of rock was evident and soon after 9.30pm, we were at Cape Crozier with the Adelie Penguin colony along with the site of the Knoll linked to the famous ‘worst journey in the world’ now visible. From the Knoll in the July darkness of 1911, Dr Edward Wilson, Lieutenant ‘Birdie’ Bowers and Apsley Cherry-Garrard, scrambled down to the sea ice to secure three Emperor Penguin eggs from the colony on an indentation in the Ross Ice Shelf.
As the Captain manoeuvred the Spirit of Enderby nearer the ice face, this brought us out on the bow, outside the Level 3 side doors and onto the bridge. It was bitterly cold and easy to experience frost nip on the fingers. Viewing this great natural feature as it faded around 600 km (370 miles) into the distance, was to be a memorable experience. Of course we only saw perhaps 20-30m of the ice face with in places up to 90% beneath the surface of the ocean. The surface appeared completely flat and the sides were as if shaped with a palette knife. At the waterline was slight undercutting with a row of icicles and extending from here, patches of ‘grease ice’ along with the occasional patch of  brash and pancake ice, indicated the Ross Sea winter re-freeze was not far off. It was easy to understand why the Great Icy Barrier had been so-named by Ross in 1841 who wrote “Well, there’s no more chance of sailing through that than through the cliffs of Dover.” The ice shelf which is about 800 km wide and 970 km long is about the size of France, attracted later explorers such as Scott, Amundsen, Shirase and Byrd, as a suitable place on which to locate their bases. Today the Ross Ice Shelf continues to fascinate scientists and for over five decades many expeditions have examined its unique characteristics including by way traverses and drilling with a flame-jet drill through to the sea below in the 1970s. At 10 pm we left 77^o25.400’ South 169^o3.356’ East and set course for Terra Nova Bay.



Day 16 Monday 24 February – Ross Sea – Terra Nova Bay with Germany’s Gondwana, South Korea’s Jang Bo Jo and Italy’s Mario Zuchelli Stations sighted.  A continental landing made at the latter.
Noon position: Latitude 75^o08.508’ South; Longitude 164^o55.351’ East
Air temperature -12^oC
Water temperature 0^oC
We had a comfortable night during which the ship headed on a north-westerly course of 331.8^o in the direction of Terra Nova Bay and we crossed our previous southerly track. In the distance we could see the Trans-Antarctic Mountains beneath a very pale cerulean-blue sky and there was an excellent view of the Drygalski Glacier Tongue.
After breakfast David gave his final lecture entitled ‘History that Heroes Forgot’. This focused on the comparatively little known Shackleton Ross Sea Party 1914-1917, led by Mackintosh and was dedicated to Dick Richards GC a member of the shore party and to Leslie Thomson, Polar Medal First Officer of the Aurora, which drew applause from the full audience. The lecture was briefly interrupted with an opportunity for us to see a Crabeater Seal along with three Emperor Penguins on ice floes. The Captain kindly took the ship in a loop so we could have a second view under calmer conditions, as a very cold north-west was blowing. This gave an opportunity for further photographs to be taken. The lecture then resumed and was concluded with the answering of questions.
We were now close to Inexpressible Island and the surface of the sea was refreezing with patches of platelets that would in due course coalesce into larger brash or pancake ice. A most extraordinary sight however, was seeing large patches of surface water freezing and coloured brown from phytoplankton. Verified by Captain Dimitry, the surface resembled large oil slicks and was also visible along the base of some icebergs we passed. The gentle motion of smoothed brown, ice-covered waves could almost have a musical score written. Well to port was the vast Nansen Ice Sheet fed by the coalescing Reeves and Priestley Glaciers. Beyond the brown rock of the Albert Mountains east of the Eisenhower Range, named for President Dwight B Eisenhower President of the United States when the USN Operation Deep Freeze began in 1954, were magnificent. A good view was also enjoyed of the Northern Foothills. These were named by the British Antarctic Expedition Northern Party in 1910-1913 and were originally named ‘Southern Foothills’. We had an excellent hot chicken, rice and coconut milk curry for lunch and the biscuits with their seeds, cranberries and chocolate coating, were superb.
By early afternoon the katabatic over-riding the north-west made it clear we would unfortunately be unable to land on Inexpressible Island. On the bridge the windows were ‘de-iced’ with hot water and we then continued further north over a choppy sea with bergy-bits toward Gerlache Inlet. Beyond this we could see South Korea’s extensive Jang Bo Jo Station, the Korean icebreakerAaron and further out was the large Russian crewed container ship BBC Danube, registered at St. Johns Newfoundland and operated by BBC Chartering. Germany’s unoccupied Gondwana Station first established in the late 1970’s was also briefly sighted. With plans developed for Chinas third Antarctic station, the others being Great Wall (1985) on King George V Island Antarctic Peninsula and Zhongshan (1989) in the Larsemann Hills near Australia’s Davis Station (1957) in East Antarctica. China is now proposing a new station on Inexpressible Island. Unfortunately this will impinge on one of the very special natural environments of the region and also one of considerable historic significance; the site of the 1911 Scott Northern Party ice cave, recognised by the Antarctic Treaty (1959).
An attempt was made to land during the afternoon but this was thwarted by the heavy swell. Of interest however were the Campbell Glacier tongue and an iceberg which had tilted, revealing the extent of ice beneath the surface. This berg was named the ‘dinosaur berg’ by David on account of its initial appearance. The former underwater surface now exposed had been sculpted and smoothed by waves and wind. After leaving our position at 74^o38.753’South 164^o15.580’East, we relocated further south to 74^o41.457’South 164^o08.333’ East, to Italy’s ‘Mario Zuchelli’ Station. The station was named after the late leader of Italy’s Antarctic Programme and was previously named ‘Baia Terra Nova’. The landscape along the coast was beautiful with superb glacial geomorphology including ice-moulded granitic and gneissic rocks, ice cliffs and patches of snow on which sun filtering through cloud, presented a bright sparkling surface. Many of us took the opportunity to make a continental landing which began at 4.50pm. From the pier at the Italian station we walked up the road and had a brief look at the buildings. There was no one about as it was now closed for the winter. Martin was fascinated with two large retaining walls, visible from the ship. Astounded at the size of the rocks used and how it was carefully fitted together, Martin considered “It epitomised Italy and the Colosseum and like the Colosseum, will still be there perhaps in thousands of years”.
We were back on board by 6pm and for those who for one reason or another did not land, the beautiful scenery was every bit as good as for those who had spent a few minutes ashore. With wind estimated at 30-40 knots any thought of landing at Inexpressible Island was abandoned so we bid farewell to the Northern Foothills and turned north. At 9pm we had an excellent view of Mt. Melbourne (2732m) along with Cape Washington and Wood Bay. The dormant volcano with warm ground, fumeroles similar to those on Mt. Erebus and mosses, was named by Ross for Lord Melbourne Prime Minister at the time Ross’s expedition was being formed. Numerous large tabular icebergs could be seen, each with a side or tilted top lit by the sun. Other icebergs were of numerous shapes and sizes. With the wind easing we continued toward Cape Hallett and most of us had an early night after another interesting day.

 
Day 17 Tuesday 25 February – Ross Sea – Coulman Island; Cape Hallett
Noon position: Latitude 73^o07.079’ South; Longitude 170^o45.948’East
Air temperature -4^oC
Water temperature 0^oC
At 8am we were opposite Cape Anne at the southern end of Coulman Island with the position at 73^o46.945’ South; 170^o 18.157’ East. Most of the island was obscured by cloud but we could see exposed rock and extensive ice including along the coastline. Once again we had a rare experience of viewing a large area of the Ross Sea again coloured a light brown from phytoplankton and resembling a dirty lake or large river at home. On this occasion however there was also a concentration of pancake ice, with the edges from contact with other floes, turned up and resembling lily pads. By the time breakfast was over, we were again in largely open water with patches of pancake ice, brash ice and small fragments. At breakfast Rodney recalled an occasion about two years ago, when the ship encountered a vast quantity of small, dead, ice-fish, with many frozen together. Specimens were collected for later study. By 9.15 am we were skirting along a field of pack ice with brown colouration along the outer edge. A few Snow Petrels were about, yet we have yet to see a Southern Fulmar and the bottle of wine remains unclaimed.
In mid morning a full lecture theatre enjoyed an excellent presentation from Robin Burton. This was entitled ‘Scotts Last Man – William (Bill) Burton 1888-1988’. In his lecture Robin presented an overview of his grandfather’s career including the three return voyages on SS Terra Nova during the British Antarctic Expedition in 1910-1913 for which he was awarded the silver Polar Medal at Buckingham Palace, by HM King George IV. Bill then served in World War 1 and revisited Antarctica courtesy the USN in February 1963. Mt Burton (2740m) is in the Barker Range of the Victory Mountains behind Cape Hallett, with the latter named by Ross in 1841 after Thomas Hallett purser on HMS Erebus. Later in the morning snow clad slopes and patches of black rock was visible at times through cloud to the west. We were now doing 10.6 knots on a course of 358.8 over an ice-free sea and light snow was falling. Part 5 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ was screened and later David gave his presentation ‘Preserving Icons of Exploration’. This lecture traced the variety of historic sites in Antarctica and their similarity to many in the High Arctic, however focused mostly on the Ross Sea region, including early restoration, the work of the New Zealand Antarctic Society, the Ross Dependency Research Committee and lead-up to the founding of the Antarctic Heritage Trust in 1987, along with work done by the Trust.
By early evening we were forging through scattered floes, past the Cotter Cliffs also named by Ross in 1841 after Pownall Cotter, Master of HMS Terror. The steep volcanic cliffs are below the Quarterdeck Ridge on top of the Hallett Peninsula. The curious name of this ridge was bestowed on it by New Zealanders in 1957-58 who traversed it and said they felt it was like walking the quarterdeck of ship. Hallett Peninsula had patches of reddish scoria between sheer black basalt lava flows, along with steep rocky couloirs filled with snow which undoubtedly presented a climbing challenge. The cliffs on the edge of the Hallett Peninsula ice cap were clearly seen above. We were now entering Mowbray Bay named by Ross after George Mowbray, clerk in charge of HMS Terror. To port was the entrance to Edisto Inlet named after the icebreaker USS Edisto in February 1956. Later we were pushing through areas of grease ice, brash ice, pancake ice and larger ice floes. A sleeping Weddell Seal woke as we slowly nudged the floe and pushed past. As we turned into Edisto Inlet with Cape Christie to starboard, the captain and his officers carefully took the Spirit of Enderby into clear, calm water. To port was a shingle spit named Seabee Hook, named after the USN Construction Battalion of Seabees, which built the Joint NZ/US IGY station in 1956-57 for the International Geophysical Year 1957-1958. Today the site has an extensive Adelie Penguin colony and an SPA providing protection for plant life. All buildings have been removed, with some along with a crawler tractor now on display in the Canterbury Museum world renowned Antarctic collection. Ahead was Tombstone Hill (1049m) so named because of the tilted slabs of sedimentary rock resembling tombstones with to left, the Edisto Glacier and to right, the Man-haul (after sledging) Glacier. Unfortunately Mt Hershel (3335m) also named by Ross after the English astronomer John Hershel and first climbed by the late Sir Edmund Hillary’s party on 27 October 1967, was in cloud. However the most beautiful blue-tinged icefalls on the lower slopes attracted our attention.
There was an excellent view to the south beyond Seabee Hook, of Football saddle and Football Mountain (823m) dropping down to the Tucker Inlet and behind the vast Tucker Glacier. This area was the focus of the first New Zealand geological expedition in 1956-57. Also seen behind Edisto Inlet were three peaks forming Mt. Trident (the highest peak 1630m) while one of the most curious features was the beautiful folds of ice flowing down the side of the peninsula behind Seabee Hook. This feature was named Bornman Glacier after the USN Operation Deep Freeze doctor and leader, at the IGY Station in 1958. This was certainly a magnificent visit and clearly was a photographic opportunity we would long remember. Although we were unable to land in the small area for visitors beside the SPA because of ice, our views from the ship were very memorable. Probably thousands of digital images were taken during the visit with these remaining a lasting memory. For David, it was glacial geomorphology in action and at its best; a major highlight in his privileged life and times in Antarctica.
By 6pm we had cleared the ice and were continuing our journey north through scattered floes and bergy-bits to the open water of Mowbray Bay. This evening the bar was filled with enjoyment and conviviality. After yet another fine dinner which featured a desert consisting of a pear stuffed with blue cheese and a prune, we headed north past Cape Roget which has an Emperor penguin colony. The ship then tracked east of the Possession Islands and we passed Cape McCormick named by Ross after the surgeon on HMS Erebus and from which the South Polar Skua was originally named. Later we passed the Downshire Cliffs. This long coastal feature was named at the request of Commander Francis Crozier of HMS Terror, for his late friend the Marquis Downshire. The evening was beautiful with soft light on the icebergs and snow capped country behind Cape McCormick. We had an excellent view of the Possession islands including the two tower-like volcanic stacks. Before morning we anticipated our arrival off Cape Adare and looked forward to another interesting day in Antarctica.



Day 18 Wednesday 26 February – en-route to Balleny Islands
Noon position: Latitude 70^o41.155’ South; Longitude 169^o35.492’ East
Air temperature -6^oC
Water temperature 0^oC
Early this morning the ship began to roll and we were not surprised when Rodney came on the PA at 6am to say we were off Cape Adare but the north-west wind and sea conditions would prevent a landing. There was some disappointment but then we are nearing autumn so the days are getting shorter and the weather tends to deteriorate quickly. The A (ntarctic)-Factor was in action again! At 8am the temperature was -6^oC and a few Snow Petrels were about. However the sun was soon shining and with the wind shifting around, the sea was calmer. Part 6 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ was screened as we continued on our course direct for Sturge Island in the Ballenys on 331.6^o at 5.1 knots. The day was fine and sunny with the sea a deep Prussian blue. The north-west wind however was around 40 knots and occasionally waves went over the bow with the water freezing on the deck, cranes, scuppers etc. The wind howled about the superstructure above the bridge where a few Skuas, Antarctic, Giant and Snow Petrels soared. To the west we could see a few icebergs as we sailed the final 190 nautical miles to our next destination where the ice map indicated clear water around the Ballenys.
The Balleny Islands at 66^o55’S; 163^o20’E consist of three large (Young, Buckle, Sturge) and two smaller islands in the group, along with the Balleny Seamount (308m) well to the north and covered by less than 100 metres of water. The islands of volcanic rock are glaciated and trend north-west to south-east for approximately 100 nautical miles. They were discovered by John Balleny, commander of the Enderby Brothers sealing schooner Eliza Scott, on 9 February 1839 and named in his honour by Captain Beaufort, Hydrographer to the Admiralty. An accompanying vessel the Sabrina commanded by Thomas Freeman, was caught in a storm and neither ship nor crew was seen again. Balleny was the second to land south of the Antarctic Circle (the first, Admiral Bellingshausen who named Peter 1 Island) and on return to England with only 200 seal skins, he faded into obscurity.
At 3pm Martin gave a presentation entitled ‘The Evolution of Whales – 60 million years in 45 minutes’. Martin introduced his lecture with an historical geography of the earth which focused on the two former super-continents, Laurasia in the north and Gondwana in the south with the Tethys Sea in-between. This was followed with key palaeontological evidence using fossils spaced over 60 million years and evidence supported by genetic and molecular studies which clearly indicate an evolutionary process whereby terrestrial animals became adapted to an aquatic life. This presentation was followed by Part 1 of ‘Longitude’ which covers the development of the chronometer for calculating longitude by John Harrison. The Harrison clocks are preserved in the National Maritime Museum at Greenwich in London and some of us have seen these.
During the afternoon Dr John sighted and photographed a Greater Snow petrel. Then at a pre-dinner quiz with questions set by passengers, the staff passed handsomely and agreed to a re-match. At 8.30 pm Rodney advised we had 142 nautical miles still to run to the Ballenys which depending on ice conditions we should see in the morning. In the evening the wind dropped off somewhat and the first Southern Fulmar was seen.
 
Day 19 Thursday 27 February – Balleny Islands - Sturge Island; Buckle Island
Noon position: Latitude 67^o12.803’ South; Longitude 164^o39.625’ East
Air temperature 0^oC
Water temperature 0^oC
We had a calm sea and a little snow last night and the morning began with small pieces of ice and a few bergs not far from the ship as we travelled the last 35 nautical miles at nearly 12 knots towards Sturge Island; the most southern of the Ballenys. The morning proved to be absolutely wonderful for viewing wildlife. Pairs of Humpback Whales were seen feeding and we had an excellent view of a circular footprint after one whale dived close to the ship. Two Minke Whales, one a recognisable Dwarf Minke, were also observed nearby. A Chinstrap Penguin was sighted riding on an iceberg. This species has a colony on Sabrina Island at the southern end of Buckle Island; the next island lying to the northwest. Other birds included small flocks of Arctic Terns along with a raft of around 50 Southern Fulmar. We also observed Cape, Giant, Great Snow and Mottled Petrels and Adam thought both Cape and Snow Petrels may have been nesting on the cliffs. The Ballenys are usually surrounded by ice and very few people have an opportunity to view them so we were privileged to see Sturge Island come into view at around 10am. The ship’s position at the time was Latitude 67^o 28.680S Longitude 165^o03.306’E. Sturge Island was named by John Balleny after T. Sturge, one of the merchants who united with Charles Enderby, in sending out the expedition. We travelled along the east coast, occasionally catching glimpses of ice cliffs and bergs along the shoreline. When the cloud cleared, we had glimpses of black volcanic lava flows visible through snow, although the ice cap was not visible. By late morning we were passing over an oily-calm surface with no ice, so the bird life and whales which normally frequent the ice edge had left us temporarily. Before noon the sun appeared and we were treated to an excellent, albeit partial view of Sturge Island with rock outcrops, ice falls, glaciers terminating in ice cliffs along the coast, along with the edge of the ice cap. Soon we were back in a swell with occasional grease ice and small fragments of ice floes. Whales were seen blowing and a flock of 75+ Southern Fulmar went by to starboard by an area of brash ice. By 1pm the sun was shining brightly and Buckle Island, which has according to the bridge chart a contour at 945 metres, was looming beneath cumulus clouds on the horizon. Buckle Island was named after named after J.W. Buckle another merchant, who supported Enderby’s expedition. We had an excellent view of the island, with its extensive corniced ice cap, volcanic rock and beautiful icebergs with subtle blue shades.
Later in the afternoon we launched five Zodiacs and went for a marvellous two hour cruise. This began with Sabrina Island, named after the cutter lost on John Balleny’s expedition in February 1839. The sea was quite choppy and before reaching the island, we were treated to a fine display from eight Orca dolphins including a large male that was previously patrolling the beach off the penguin colony. On the shingle beach which also had some large water worn basalt boulders and blocks of ice, were several hundred Chinstrap and Adelie Penguins, along with about 30 Weddell Seals and two Crabeater Seals. A juvenile King Penguin was identified and was believed by Dr John and Adam to be the first time this species has been sighted south of Latitude 60^o. From here we had a close look at The Monolith, an 80 m tall basaltic column that may have been a lava plug or dyke, formed when the volcano developed. Continuing along the south end of Buckle Island, we stopped off at Chinstrap Islet and here saw two Leopard Seals one of which had taken a penguin. The swell was really rough here and we kept to a safe distance off shore. Some Chinstrap Penguins were clearly aware of the presence of the Leopard Seals and wisely decided to abort their dive and remain on a rocky ramp. An excellent photo was taken by Bill B showing retreating penguins and the head of a Leopard Seal above the water after missing out on a meal. Further along Buckle Island some time was spent examining ice cliffs and icebergs along with a Weddell Seal on an ice floe, which obliged by remaining still for the photographers. Eliza Cone on the south-west corner of Buckle Island named after Balleny’s schooner Eliza Scott, had a small arch which also attracted many photographs. To the south east was Scott Cone, also named by Balleny after the Eliza Scott. By 6pm we were again alongside the ship, with timing crucial to step onto the landing platform, as a good swell was running. Here, Ken A stood on the platform as it rose and descended, assisting the remaining eight of us in the Zodiac along with his wife Jill. The bar staff was kept busy again and many of us enjoyed some glacier ice with the gin, tonic and a wedge of lemon. We have not yet completed our exploration of the Balleny Islands and will continue to examine the west coast of Buckle Island, Boradaile Island and Young Island, the next in the chain.
 


Day 20 Friday 28 February – Balleny Islands - Buckle Island; Borradaile Island; Young Island; Antarctic Circle
Adam’s birthday
Noon position: Latitude 66^o35.601’ South; Longitude 162^o36.258’ East
Air temperature 0^oC
Water temperature 0^oC
This morning Rodney advised we would proceed along the west coast of 20 nautical mile long Young Island, the next and final large island north in the chain. Balleny named the island after merchant G.F. Young. The Spirit of Enderby approached Cape Cornish at the north end of Buckle Island. This land form was named in 1938 for A.W. Cornish meteorologist of the Central Bureau and an observer on board the research vessel Discovery 11 during 1937-1938. Mist concealed much of the mystical island with occasional areas of rugged, black, volcanic rock appearing then retreating again through the mist. We continued on a course of 334.4^o just outside the un-surveyed area. An hour later driving light snow was coming in from the north and a few growlers, always a potential hazard for shipping, were amongst scattered pieces of floes. Soon afterwards we had an excellent view of a large Humpback Whale and bird life included the Greater Snow Petrel.
We next took a closer look at Borradaile Island named after W. Borradaile, another merchant who had supported the London based Enderby-backed expedition. The ship was now in 160 metres of water and positioned at 66^o 34.271’ South 162^o39.362’ East. Rodney and Adam went out to check the sand beach for a landing by the 38 of us interested in stepping onto one of the Balleny Islands. Unfortunately conditions were unsuitable so we were unable to accomplish this rare feat. Before noon we had glimpses of white and black on Young Island through the mist as we moved to where the sea bed dropped steeply from 82-200-781-1434 metres. We were now passing through scattered areas of brash and small floes on one of which was a sleeping Leopard Seal. It took to the water and looked most indignant at our intrusion yet also appeared to be smiling at the large blue monster and humans aiming cameras. After a last glance back at the ship the big seal was gone. Young Island came and went in the murk and we passed several Weddell Seals on floes. Also of interest was a raft of 50+ Southern Fulmars which took to the air. The grey sea blended with a grey sky and at 12.23 pm we crossed the Antarctic Circle on our way north with the ship position at 66^o33.314’ South, Longitude 162^o28.881’ East.
Soon afterwards we made a slight course change and worked our way around the northern end of Young Island towards Cape Ellsworth named in 1936 by Discovery 2 when returning to Australia to collect the well-known American aviator Lincoln Ellsworth and to undertake a survey of the Ballenys. Once again Rodney again hoped there may be a chance of making a landing, but access was blocked by ice and a swell. Mid afternoon we set a new course of 078.1^o as we were escorted away from Young Island by two flocks of Greater Snow Petrels. Lauren watched as the island with its hostile, sheer coastal ice cliffs of snow and black rock, slowly faded from view and vowed to one day return South. This evening there was great hilarity in the bar/library when Bill B and Mike Pemberton performed a superb ‘interview’ conducted by Sir David Attenborough with Adam, on the wonders of the polar world and its natural history. Sonia then followed with her presentation of a doggerel in recognition of Adam’s birthday:
There was a young man named Adam
Who, over Eve, had a preference for Meghan
On the bridge every day
All the birds he would say
From fulmars and petrels, to albatross and prions
Outshining the birdman on Orion...
Over the bridge for him to view
And call Orca, Humpback or Minke
In our trust Kromov so dinky.
Happy Birthday Adam.
 
A fine birthday cake was then carried in and we all sang Happy Birthday. The usual excellent meal followed. Our next landfall would be Campbell Island, some 900 nautical miles to the north and 3¾ days away, at an average speed of 10 knots.
 
Saturday 1 March – At sea en-route to Campbell Island
Noon position: Latitude 62^o43.833’ South; Longitude 164^o20.257 ’ East
Air temperature 2^oC
Water temperature 1.6^oC
The day began with a beautiful sunrise which some of us photographed. The ship was operating on one engine with the speed reduced to 9.9 knots to avoid a major westerly weather system ahead which would make for very uncomfortable travel. While on the bridge our two Mikes from Wales, were each presented by chef Nicky with two leaks. Martin then mentioned the Welsh are very religious – they pray on their knees and prey on their neighbours! Meghan opened the Sea Shop for the last time on the voyage and afterwards we viewed the final instalment of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ with Scott and his men now laid to rest. This morning Robin observed porpoising penguins from his cabin porthole and from the bridge two Royal Penguins were observed on the surface. Adelie and Royal penguins were also seen, perhaps indicative of the Convergence in our region of travel. The morning was also good for whale sightings, including Fin and Humpback species, with a large Fin Whale surfacing near the ship. The sighting of Fin whales also suggested we were in the vicinity of the Convergence. The dotted line on the chart however, is only an estimate as the Antarctic Convergence varies both north and south of the central area. At lunchtime we had the occasional roll to 20^o however expected the wind to move around later to the south-southwest. At this stage Rodney said we are ahead of schedule.
Early afternoon we crossed the track that had taken us south from Macquarie Island and we began to see more varied bird species. These included Blue, White-headed, Wilsons and Giant Petrels, along with three Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses. A small pod of Hourglass Dolphins was also seen. Later three Southern Bottlenose Whales along with a Campbell Island Albatross were seen. At 2.30pm Malcolm gave an extremely interesting talk to a packed audience in the library, on his father’s career including sailing around Cape Horn on square rigger sailing ships. The main focus was however on his father’s appointment and role on the Aurora in 1914-1916 during Shackleton’s Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. Also of interest was Leslie’s subsequent career at sea and association with AWA (Amalgamated Wireless Australia) with the company also involving Lionel Hooke who served on the Aurora. At 4pm the second and final part of ‘Longitude’ was shown and during the bar hour Mike Pemberton commemorated St. David’s Day by having some us wearing red and trying to say the longest place name in Wales. He then proceeded to tell a few jokes which generated further laughter. By dinner time the ship was beginning to roll with a 3.5 m swell so a slight course change was made for two hours so we could eat in relative calm. We had 538 nautical miles to run to Campbell Island. In anticipation of any rough water, we made everything secure in the cabins.
 
Sunday 2 March – At sea en-route to Campbell Island; Jills birthday
Noon position: Latitude 59^o00.886’ South; Longitude 166^o02.275’ East
Air temperature 9^oC
Water temperature 6^oC
The ship rolled a little in the night but in the morning the sea was pretty calm and there was a nice sunrise when two South Georgian Petrels, a Light-Mantled Soot Albatross and a Rockhopper Penguin were seen. Further Rockhopper Penguins, with some resting on the surface, were seen this morning along with Mottled, White-headed, and Diving Petrels, Campbell and Sooty Albatrosses. Later we noted a Fin Whale passing by. At 10.30am Mike Potts screened a DVD entitled ‘The Natural World, Attenborough in Paradise’. Mike together with Richard Kirby, filmed renowned naturalist Sir David Attenborough in New Guinea, when he spent over 250 days in the field. However as Mike said, the rewards outweighed any discomforts, the latter including mosquitoes and the weather. Several species of the unique colourful, plumed birds were filmed in colour for the first time. There was also an interesting insight into some of the New Guinea tribe people and their use of plumes in their hair and through the nostrils. Mike said the expedition must hold a record for payment of excess cargo - £11,000!
By noon we were doing a comfortable 9.7 knots and were over 4685 m of water with a much deeper 5212 m coming up. The chart also indicated the Antarctic Convergence with a depth of 5099 m. Today we had a buffet lunch with Mexican beans and other fillings on a wrap. A surprise birthday cake was also carried into the port dining room and Happy Birthday was sung for Jill. At 2.30 pm Adam gave an excellent non-technical lecture on albatrosses. Good maps used indicated the distribution of various species. As we began to cross over the Campbell Plateau, we expected to see an increase in the magnificent birds, which can fly while asleep, along with flying and feeding day and night. The 3.5 metre wingspan makes this possible for this, the largest of flying birds. As former eminent biologist Robert Cushman Murphy wrote, the following is now applicable to each of us who can say: I now belong to the higher cult of mortals, for I have seen the albatross...
Jill’s cake was cut for afternoon tea and we enjoyed her birthday celebration. Martin then gave his presentation entitled ‘Polynesian extension in the Subantarctic Islands’. Martin began with a brief overview which showed that Polynesians were capable of sailing great distances. He then focused on the Auckland Islands and cited archaeological evidence undertaken in 1998 and 2003. An earth oven below present dune sand had associated basalt and chert (perhaps from Campbell Island) flaked tools, seal bone with cut marks and Sea Lion bone with marks from biting by dogs along with oven stones. Charcoal has been radio-carbon dated at Waikato University New Zealand to 1200-1400 years ago. Polynesians had also stopped at the Kermadec Islands en-route to New Zealand and visited Norfolk Island yet it was later that they settled in the Chatham Islands. It was clear that Polynesians were capable of making long ocean voyages and today there is a resurgence of this activity.
This evening activity in the bar featured a P-Party. One could dress accordingly, whether in polkadot, pink or purple pyjamas, or perhaps as a penguin, prion, pirate etc. There was much hilarity and numerous (potentially incriminating) photographs were taken. After dinner the evening ended quietly with the film ‘Intouchable’ in French with sub-titles which was declared enjoyable by all who attended. Mike Pemberton, Maryann J, Anne, James, Bill B, Lauren and Sue reported seeing a green Aurora on the horizon at midnight which they said resembled a hanging curtain. From the east it spread westward across the crystal clear sky and then faded and became a faint glow in the west.
 
Monday 3 March – At sea en-route to Campbell Island
Noon position: Latitude  54^o57.3’ South; Longitude 168^o08.8’  East
Air temperature 11^oC
Water temperature 9^oC
This morning we arose to a cloudy day with calm sea over the Campbell Plateau. Birds are again beginning to appear around the ship with Grey Petrels, a Brown Skua, Campbell and Light-Mantled Sooty albatrosses seen. At 10am Martin gave a most interesting lecture ‘The 1806 Discovery of the Auckland Islands: In context of these times’ by colleague and friend Rowley Taylor. Martin began with a discussion on early navigation of the Subantarctic Islands below New Zealand, with reference to sealing, whaling and the Enderby Brothers of London. The discovery by Captain Bristow on 18 August 1806 along with the first map drawn and place names, many of which are still used, was of great interest. Afterwards we handed in our blue Antarctic jackets that had served us well and then David gave his final lecture which focused on the great Australian explorer Sir Douglas Mawson. The lecture entitled ‘Douglas Mawson – stalwart of the heroic-era’ covered his early life; work on Shackleton’s 1908 expedition; the Australasian Antarctic Expedition (AAE) 1911-1914; the British, Australian and New Zealand Antarctic Expedition (BANZARE) 1929-1931, leading to formation of the Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions (ANARE) in 1947-1948.
After lunch Rodney gave two lectures – ‘An introduction to the Russian Far East’ followed by ‘An Introduction to Campbell Island’ at 4pm. In the first lecture we were given a brief introduction which covered the geology, geography and human history, which included the early visitation by Simeon Desnev in 1648, followed by the Dane Vitus Bering, who in 1648 and 1725 had two extraordinary expeditions. He also touched on the travel by Bering across Russia by foot from St. Petersburg and the sailing from the Arctic Sea in the Far East to the south. Using beautiful photographs, Rodney gave an excellent overview of the natural history then focused on the areas visited by Heritage Expeditions. These included the diverse landscape, animal, bird and plant life, the diverse and interesting peoples of the Far East and effects on them during Soviet and post-Soviet times. This certainly inspired us to explore this most beautiful and as yet still largely remote part of the world. Rodney’s second lecture provided us with an overview of Campbell Island. The most southern of New Zealand’s Subantarctic islands, Campbell was formed by volcanic action that was later glaciated and with rising sea levels, has drowned valleys or fiords. The island experiences an average rainfall of 1425 mm. Rodney then talked about some of the early human history, which included discovery by Frederick Hasselburgh in 1810 and a visit by the French Transit of Venus Expedition in 1874 when many place names were given. Rodney touched on attempts at sealing, farming (1895-1930s), whaling (1911-14), the World War 2 Cape (coast-watcher) Expedition, establishment of New Zealand’s meteorological station and the rat eradication programme. Campbell Island also has a unique natural flora that has expanded since rats were finally removed in 2004-2005, along with 29 species of birdlife including six species of albatross.
At 5pm we had around 90 nautical miles to go, with arrival expected in the early hours of the morning. Before dinner a Fin Whale was observed close to starboard followed by a Sei Whale a short time later. A second quiz with staff questions set by passengers took place with the staff again winning 19 out of 31. After an excellent meal which included monkfish or roasted pork loin, many of us watched the film ‘Place between the Pines’ with Robert Gosling, while others enjoyed the fresh air and a calmer sea. At 10.30pm another Aurora was seen although Bill I said, because there was some low cloud on the horizon it was not particularly bright.



Tuesday 4 March – Perseverance Harbour; Campbell Island – North-west Bay; Col Lyal; harbour cruising
Noon position: Latitude 52^o33.058’ South; Longitude 169^o07.652’ East
Air temperature 11^oC
Water temperature 10^oC
The Spirit of Enderby reached the entrance to Perseverance Harbour in the wee small hours and anchored in 28 fathoms of water. We woke to a fine day, with cloudy sky and a nice sunrise with barometric pressure still high at 1028 hp. It was good to see the sun come up on theDracophyllum and tussocks on hills and grey rocky outcrops, surrounding the unusually calm water of the harbour. To starboard was Beeman Hill (198m) with buildings of the former New Zealand Meteorological station on the lower slopes. The Department of Conservation is now responsible for overall control of the island which is a Nature Reserve. With Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nesting on Beeman Hill, the hill itself is off-limits. After breakfast Rodney held a briefing when various options for the next two days were outlined. Options offered included a walk up Mt. Honey (569m) the highest point on the island, walks to North-West Bay along with Zodiac cruising on the inner harbour and a mid afternoon walk to Col Lyall to view Southern Royal Albatross. The North West Bay long walk group of around 21 hikers were first away on a fine sunny morning.
Next Martin, Adam and Meghan took around 30 of us on a most enjoyable Zodiac cruise around the upper harbour. Soon after leaving the ship, most of us were treated to a fine display by Sea Lions. These dived and swam about the boats and with the exceptionally clear water, it was interesting to observe the swimming style. Karen managed to obtain 400 photos. Because it was low tide we were unable to land at Tucker Cove, the site of the early farm homestead and woolshed, although we could make out the rusting Shacklock Orion cast iron stove on a rise above the beach. Nearby were two areas of placed boulders that were once part of two jetties on which stores were landed and wool bales and meat off-loaded. Further along the coast was Camp Cove where we could see the Sitka spruce allegedly planted by Lord Ranfurly in 1923-1924, when Governor General of New Zealand. The unusual shape was created as a result of former Campbell Island residents cutting braches off for Christmas trees. We did however land further along the shore near Garden Cove where sealers are said to have lived. Of interest was the large quantity of Blue mussels, some of good size. Martin, who has undertaken a Sea Lion study here, said they are very good although if eaten in quantity, could give one strange dreams! On the beach were numerous colourful pieces of chert which some of us photographed. These may have been a source for early Maori flaked tools found on Enderby Island. An extremely tame endemic Campbell Island Pipit came up to Ingrid and was photographed by Peter. Campbell Island Teal, young Black-backed Gulls, Cormorants, Giant Petrels and Mallard Ducks were also observed and photographed along with some excellent columnar basalt. Another Teal was also seen while at Garden Cove. At noon we returned to the ship.
After lunch those of us who were earlier Zodiac cruisers, then set out for the boardwalk that would take us to Col Lyall (named after Dr Lyall on Ross’s expedition) arriving there about mid afternoon. On our way up we hiked through Dracophyllum scoparium scrub in the Sub-alpine Vegetation Zone below the hill and were soon in more open country. By late afternoon the Southern Royal Albatross at the guard stage and sitting on 2-3 week old chicks, were seen feeding their offspring. They proved to be excellent photographic subjects and observations of species behaviour included bill clapping and gamming. Later in the afternoon many birds were noticed flying high above on air currents, preparing to return to their nest sites and some birds were seen to land. In addition to the Southern Royal Albatrosses, other highlights included an Antipodean Wanderer, a moulting Yellow-eyed Penguin, Pipits, at least five endemic Campbell Island Snipe with a photo obtained by John S and some nice examples of late, purple floweringPleurophyllum speciosum. Those of us on the board walk greatly enjoyed the experience, along with the gradation of vegetation from low level scrub, through more open vegetation and finally the high sub-alpine fell-field with mega herbs, although most of these had completed flowering for the season. On the later, newer section of boardwalk, we were able to take an extension and have a great view down to North-West Bay. By 4pm mist was descending and we headed back, with Michael T doing a side visit to view the Clifton Memorial, named after the Leader of the Cape Expedition.
The North-West Bay party led by Rodney completed a 12 km trip starting at Camp Cove, including a 200m climb followed by a similar descent, to Capstan Cove, all part of a wonderful day. The reported that the walk was excellent for birds including an Antipodean Wanderer Albatross, Southern Royals with chicks and also gamming, a Campbell Island Teal and three Snipe with photographs obtained by Dr John and Sonia. Perhaps the most unusual bird sighting of this trip was of the very rare Greater Pemberton. This bird was calling from within a cave near Camp Cove. It appeared to have hair instead of feathers, a tombstone-like beak and is a rare link with the Jurassic era and the break-up of Gondwana.
A few nice examples of Pleurophyllum speciosum, the Emperor daisy, along with other plants including Anisotome latifolia, the pink, purple and white Gentian, the paper daisy Helichrysum and small green orchids on the glaciated and water worn landscape were seen. Susan’s knowledge of alpine botany was very helpful. Today Adam was pleased to be presented with a box containing a South Georgian Diving petrel found on the boat deck by Bosun Yuri. This was photographed by Meghan and later released. By early evening we were back on board and after a great gathering in the library/bar, enjoyed a fine dinner.



Wednesday 5 March – Perseverance Harbour; Campbell Island – Mt. Honey; Zodiac cruise; Col Lyal. At sea – en-route for Snares Islands 
Noon position: Latitude 52^o33.020’ South; Longitude 169^o09.540’ East
Air temperature 10^oC
Water temperature 10^oC
We had a comfortable night at anchor and got up to fine low mist on the hills and a slight choppy surface on the harbour. After breakfast Rodney gave a briefing for the activities available for the day. These included a ‘walk in the park’ or ascent of Mt Honey, with Adam and Meghan; ‘Duck hunting’ with Dr John; a lecture by David and after lunch a further visit with Martin to Col Lyall. As it turned out, the 19 strong group for the Mt. Honey climb split into two. Eleven climbers who continued to the top became enveloped in fog and after a group photograph, returned via the steep wet tussock slopes. They were however, rewarded with sighting a pair of Snipe. The others who managed about two thirds of the way to the summit, nevertheless enjoyed their climb with time spent enjoying the sub-alpine botany including native orchids, an alpine Anisotome and bird life.
During the great duck hunt, four Teal were sighted with Dr John and others in the party, securing sought after photographs. Six Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, a Sooty Shearwater, a Sooty chick, groups of Campbell Island shags, Wilsons and Giant petrels, a Yellow-eyed Penguin and gulls were also seen. It was indeed a great morning for Subantarctic ornithology. Six who opted out of any field trip this morning were able to attend David’s presentation ‘Stormy Outposts in Southern Seas’ which focused on the Subantarctic Islands we have visited along with their varied phases of human history. The selection of slides and quotations from accounts concerned with the castaway era and from a sheep farmer account of the 1920s was of great interest. This supplemented Rodney’s excellent pre-landing presentations, along with our pre-expedition tour of the Southland Museum.
After lunch those who did not visit Col Lyall yesterday, including some who did the longer walk, seized the chance to hike up the board walk in the afternoon. Some of us were able to obtain photographs of a young, moulting Yellow-eyed Penguin and Robin was lucky to photograph another Yellow-eyed Penguin chick being fed. A small green native orchid beside the boardwalk was also admired by many walkers. The sun was out until just below the Col, however this did not prevent good viewing of albatross with at least one chick viewed on the nest and courtship displays. Late in the afternoon we watched birds cruising on air currents above the nests with one nesting bird moving its head to follow the movements of passing birds above. By 5pm when most of us had arrived at the landing, the mist had further descended and light drizzle began to fall. However Mike Potts, Martin and Chris obtained excellent photographs of albatross in flight despite the heavy ‘Scotch mist’. By 7.30 pm we were all back on board, enjoying our photographs and comparing experiences of the day. The anchor was lifted at 9pm and we prepared to depart for the Snares Islands, a journey of around 288 nautical miles and in total, 360 to Bluff. During the evening two Storm Petrels, a Grey-backed and a Black-bellied attracted by the ships lights, were found on deck by the Bosun and later released.
 
Thursday 6 March – At sea – en-route for Snares Islands 
Noon position: Latitude  50^o37.928’ South; Longitude 168^o318’ East
Air temperature 10^oC
Water temperature 10^oC
By the time the ship had cleared Perseverance Harbour and worked its way around the east end, then north of Campbell Island on a course of 340^o, she was beginning to roll. During the night we had a few good wallops on the hull and sleep was somewhat limited. This morning we were greeted with a grey sky and moderate swell from the north-west, along with a temperature at 8 a.m. of 7^oC. Meghan announced a morning programme which began with a slide presentation by Martin entitled ‘The Uniquely Useful Biology of Pigs Abandoned on the Auckland Islands’. This was a lecture given in Wellington by Professor Bob Elliot at the Auckland Islands Symposium held in April 2006. Martins talk was very interesting and began with the release of 15 black pigs of British origin (including Gloucester), by Captain Abraham Bristow 20 October 1907. Today descendants survive on Auckland Island and in 1994 a team investigated their distribution, although this is not firmly established. The pigs are occasionally seen on beaches eating seaweed. In 1999 the Rare Breeds Association of New Zealand in association with Department of Conservation, removed 17 pigs to Invermay near Dunedin. Kept in quarantine, the pigs were disease-free and following tests on rats a real case has been established to harvest cells to treat chronic neurological diseases and inherited disorders in humans. Martin also discussed the cattle, rabbit (26 recipes are in the Enderby Island Cook Book) and mice removal after which initial impacts on Teal and Skua, the species have since recovered. Fog cleared late in the morning and the sun came out and we saw several albatross including Campbell and a Southern Royal about the ship. Most of us were now packing and in the afternoon attended Martin’s final lecture ‘Extinction by Vice-Regal Command: The Auckland Islands Merganser (1840-1902)’ based on research by Murray Williams. Twenty six specimen skins are known to exist world-wide, along with two ducklings preserved in spirits from the original clutch of four then seen with both parents. It appears that the flightless Merganser inhabited coastal estuarine areas and made use of its saw-tooth-edged bill, to eat the Galaxiid or New Zealand whitebait, which also occurs in the Auckland Islands, although the bird may have also consumed fleshy invertebrates. On the Auckland Islands, the species was perhaps exterminated during two visits in 1901 and 1902 by Lord Ranfurly, who supported the collection of specimens for museums (including Dublin). The matter of competition with shags cannot be overlooked and while Martin was hopeful of making a sighting during his 20 seasons of field work, there has been no report of the Auckland Islands Merganser for many decades.
This afternoon bird species increased with numerous Fairy Prions and hundreds of Sooty Shearwaters flying around the ship. Meghan gave us our passports along with a very nice certificate for having crossed the Antarctic Circle and for our Furthest South. During the bar hour Bill Bingham acted as host for an amusing presentation entitled ‘Spirit of Enderby Awards 2014 or SOFES’. According to Bill the awards recognised - expedition team members who have had the greatest impact on the cold, bleak, wild and merciless expanse we call the Southern Ocean. Lauren was official photographer and there were nine categories:

• Best Plums on Board – Susan K.
• Single MALT award (Single Most Attractive Lieutenant on the Trip award– Sarndra
• Big Mac award (Biggest Inspiration to get going) by the most attractive companion – Meghan
• The Young Under praised Mega-Master Chef Order of YUMMO for services to maritime catering – Bruce & Nicky
• The Walking Encyclopedia award - Wackypedia to David and Adam
• I’m an ancestor get me out of here award – Robin, Malcolm and Michael
• The KK or Knobbly knees award – James, Ross, Howard, Barry and Professor Sergei Petrovich Khromov
• The BB BBB (the Bill Bingham Biggest Bullshitter on the Boat) award– Martin & Dr John
• Special Award of Durex Weddell Seal Onecie – Sir Rodney of Ross on account of his appearance when in his orange immersion suit.

The awards in the form of a biscuit with appropriate lettering, were interspersed with a sea shanty ‘We’re all here together’, led by Bill S. with audience participation; jokes by Bill B - Mary from the diary and James the butler; a beautiful song by Caroline H – ‘I’ll be seeing you’ and a song by Bill B entitled ‘May be its because We’ve been to Antarctica’. After an excellent dinner, the night was spent quietly and photographers were able to capture a beautiful sunset.

 

Friday 7 March – Snares Islands - North-East Island; Stewart Island
Our last day.
Noon position: Latitude 47^o35.469’ South; Longitude 167^o16.483’ East
Air temperature 12^oC
Water temperature 12^oC
This morning we were called early and began the day with breakfast at 6.30 am. The Spirit of Enderby was off North-East Island and riding a south-east swell. Outside the temperature was 10^oC, it was foggy and there was heavy drizzle. The upper half of North-East Island was enshrouded in mist. Many birds including around 50 Diving and Mottled Petrels, along with a few Sooty Shearwaters attracted by the ships lights, were collected by Adam and released with most flying off on their own accord. As the day lightened, the spectacular sight of large flocks of perhaps thousands of shearwaters that had been ashore at night feeding their chicks, were seen flying out to sea. After feeding during the day they would return in the twilight to their burrows. After breakfast we intended to launch Zodiacs for the 20 people who expressed an interest in a short visit to observe the penguin slope and perhaps some penguins, shearwaters and other species. Rodney found it necessary to cancel the landing however as the Captain was having difficulty holding the ship in the very strong winds and the swell had also increased. By mid morning we were on our way to Stewart Island with 70 nautical miles to Port Pegasus. The grey sea beneath grey cloud was still lumpy with white caps and only a few birds were about.
At 10am the documentary ‘Blackfish’ was screened and covered the practice of keeping Orca in captivity with several fatalities of trainers over the years. Sea World in California is a well-known facility with other aquariums in Florida and other countries which all exploit these animals for corporate profit. By using the process of artificial insemination, the Orca seen in these establishments today represent progeny from the original male Orca named Tilikum. By noon the south-east corner of Stewart Island was clearly visible beneath scattered cumulus cloud and we were doing nearly 10 knots on a much calmer sea. Lunch was at the earlier time of 12.30 pm on account of us having had an early start. After we had tucked into our chicken and rice we had a very relaxing afternoon and enjoyed being in milder conditions on deck with views to port of the long Stewart Island coastline. We were soon passing the mutton bird islands to the south, where young shearwater chicks were being taken as part of traditional food gathering rights, along with Port Pegasus where we were unable to land as there is no customs facility. At 3pm course was changed to 70^o as we headed north and saw just how large the island is. High hills were clearly visible along with the bush-clad, occasional sandy beaches and eroded areas.
Meghan arranged for our accounts to be settled and we took it easy for the remainder of the afternoon until it was time to assemble in the lecture room for an expedition recap along with a briefing relating to plans for our disembarkation. Rodney introduced each team member who spoke briefly including Martin who gave a vote of thanks. The highlight to round off proceedings was Meghan’s wonderful slide presentation which was a fitting finale to the expedition and later made available to all as a memento. This summary indicated that we had travelled a total of 4675 nautical miles on this incredible journey. Our final official meeting was followed by a magnificent buffet dinner provided by Bruce and Chris. Mouth watering delicacies were laid out for us to select from a range of dishes including sea food, hot carved ham, beef, chicken, roasted and steamed vegetables followed by a fine selection of deserts. We all thanked Bruce and Chris for this final magnificent effort. After dinner many of us took advantage of the ship being anchored off the coast of Stewart Island by strolling the decks where we could enjoy the smell of the fragrant island vegetation.
 
Saturday 8 March – Port of Bluff 
Position: Latitude 46^o35.509’ South; Longitude 168^o093’ East
At 6.20 am the Pilot launch came alongside and escorted our ship to the inner harbour where we tied up at 7.05 am. After our final breakfast on board we completed requirements of New Zealand Customs and Quarantine and disembarked on a mild sunny morning. Before everyone dispersed we captured a group photo then made our final farewells. It had been a magnificent expedition, due in no small part to the experience, dedication and enthusiasm of Rodney, Captain Dimitry and their dedicated team of lecturers, guides, officers and crew. We thank them all and hope to meet again someday.