1367: Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific 23 Dec 2013
Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific
23rd – 30th December 2013
Monday 23rd December
Departing Bluff
We converged on the Kelvin Hotel, Invercargill at 1400 and Heritage Expeditions staff were there to greet us. Our luggage was loaded onto a truck to be taken directly to the Spirit of Enderby which was berthed in Port of Bluff and thirty minutes later we boarded a coach that took us to the ship. The Security check at the port seemed a little OTT (over the top), but we were eventually cleared to board the ship. On board we were directed to our cabins where our luggage awaited us and the process of unpacking began. Once this was accomplished we explored the ship and discovered a welcome drink and snack available in the Bar/Library.
The pilot came aboard and we sailed at 1600. Sea conditions in the strait weren’t too bad but the ship set a course for sheltered water south of the Northern Muttonbird Islands. When we arrived there we were summoned to a set of compulsory briefings which included an introduction to the staff and ship then a safety briefing. The later was divided into two parts, a theoretical part and a practical part. For the practical part we had to go to our allocated muster stations adjacent to the lifeboats and then climb into the boats. At the completion of this exercise, the bar opened and then dinner was served. Just before the briefings we had a good sighting of a Blue Whale – it was a great way to start the trip.
Tuesday 24th December
The Snares Islands
We arrived off the Snares Islands at approximately 0630. It had been a relatively comfortable trip south but there was a building NE sea and swell. When it was behind us the ship remained fairly stable, but it was not good for Zodiac cruising. The swell was clearly demonstrated by the pattern of the waves breaking along the coastline we wished to explore. The captain put the vessel into a “holding pattern” off the east coast while we had breakfast and watched the conditions closely. Despite the conditions there were some great views of Buller’s and Salvin’s Albatross, Snares Crested Penguins and there were thousands of Sooty Shearwaters massing on the water just offshore prior to going out to feed for the day.
After breakfast we abandoned our plans for a Zodiac cruise and set a course for Port Ross in the Auckland Islands some 140 miles away. Conditions weren’t too bad during this voyage as the NE wind/sea swung throughout the day to SE and there was periods of heavy rain and fog making the journey more real and magical. At 1030 Alex gave a lecture entitled “The Botany of the Subantarctic Islands” which was well attended despite the motion of the vessel. Then at 1200 Katya gave a presentation on Cetaceans of the Southern Ocean and again there was a good turn out for this. Rodney’s briefing on the Auckland Islands scheduled for after lunch was postponed because the sea conditions had deteriorated somewhat, but by late afternoon we were all absorbed quarantine measures required for our landing the next morning. This involved the vacuuming of all clothing and equipment being taken ashore to rid it of seeds which could seriously affect the island ecosystem. The bar opened at 1830 and dinner was served. Folk retired early in anticipation of a calm anchorage in the early hours of the morning.
Wednesday 25th December
Auckland Islands
When we awoke the vessel was anchored in the upper reaches of Port Ross near Shoe Island. It was beautifully calm and the wind had eased and sun was trying to come out. The ship had arrived at anchor at about 0130 and Rodney woke us at 0615 to begin the busy day. It started with a briefing at 0645 which covered the safe use of Zodiacs, an overview of the history and natural history of the Auckland Islands and a description of our first landing at Hardwick (Erebus Cove). Breakfast was scheduled for 0730 and by 0815 the Zodiacs started shuttling people ashore. At Erebus Cove we had the opportunity to visit the small graveyard and inspect the Victoria Tree. Our two hours ashore went very quickly and we were soon back aboard so we could steam the few miles to Ranui Cove. Once there everyone again boarded the Zodiacs and this time we visited the abandoned No 1 Coast Watchers hut. The weather had improved remarkably and by our arrival it was warm and sunny. Ranui Cove is very sheltered and we enjoyed hearing great birdsong from both Bellbirds and Tui. We inspected the hut and then walked to the smaller lookout hut where the coast watchers looked out over the harbour. There were magnificent views from a small promontory above the huts out over the entire expanse of Port Ross which sparkled in the sunshine. The track to and from the lookout was a little muddy and slippery in places, but all felt it well worth the effort. Everybody was back on board by 1300 hours and the captain didn’t waste any time in lifting the anchor and heading to Carnley Harbour while we enjoyed lunch.
The trip south was very pleasant despite the fact that we couldn’t see a lot of the coast as we were quite a way offshore and there was some cloud over the tops. We cruised into the eastern entrance of Carnley Harbour at 1600 where conditions were prefect – blue sky, calm seas and no wind – and steamed up to Epigwatt in the North Arm where we dropped anchor. Rodney had all 5 Zodiacs lowered and we went ashore at the site where the Grafton was wrecked in 1864. There we could see the remains of the ship in the form of timber lying on the shore and the remains of the hut survivors built in the Rata forest. We had about 30 minutes here before re-boarding the Zodiacs and cruising further up the harbour as far as Figure Eight Island where a small number of New Zealand Sea Lions were breeding . As we made our way back to the ship we encountered a group of thousands of Sooty Shearwaters feeding just off the coast. The Bar opened at 1830 so we could enjoy refreshments after our busy day and prepare for our Christmas dinner. Bruce and Colleen the chefs had prepared a sumptuous feast and the staff had decorated the dining rooms beautifully. The atmosphere was buoyant and the table settings were spectacular. The meal began with soup served to the table and then we helped ourselves to the lavish buffet which offered seafood, meats, salads and vegetables – much more than we could possibly eat. Dessert was also served buffet style with a wide variety of dishes available. The meal finished at about 2130 and we retired in anticipation of another great day at Enderby Island. The anchor was lifted at 2230 and we cruised back to Port Ross during the night.
Thursday 26th December
Auckland Islands
It is unlikely anyone heard the anchor drop at 0200 at which time there was a slight change in the motion of the ship as she rolled gently on the easterly swell that was still running. Rodney woke us shortly after 0600 for breakfast at 0630. This was followed at 0715 with a briefing, lunch making and Zodiac departures at 0830. There was still a swell breaking on the beach but Rodney and Sergey were in the water with drysuit/waders on catching the boats and guiding them in through the surf. Alex was on shore to guide us across the beach and up to the Department of Conservation (DOC) huts where we were able to change into walking boots. When everyone was ashore the last Zodiac was sent back to the ship with one of the sailors and we were organised into two groups (as had been described in the briefing). One group set out to walk around the island and the other group visited the Western Cliffs and the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross colony before returning to the beach. Alex, Katya, Agnes and Dr Roger led the group making their way around the island. Rodney and Samuel looked after the rest.
The weather was absolutely perfect for our excursion, with some high cloud which broke up later in the day and not a breath of wind, a very rare and unique experience in this part of the world. Most returned to the beach by lunchtime and watched the Sea Lions or looked for Teal along the shoreline. We were eventually to see a group of seven Teal on the wave platform, but there weren’t many Yellow-eyed Penguins seen. This wasn’t surprising as most of the birds move either early in the morning or late in the evening.
The “around the island” walkers made good time as everybody had to be back by 1500 for our departure to Campbell Island. They watched the Sea Lions for a while before walking across the island to the Western Cliffs. Lunch was enjoyed in the Rata forest near Pebble Point. Jessie was able to collect all the plant specimens she needed for her thesis and most people had good sightings of Snipe. Teal were abundant and most enjoyed great views of Yellow-eyed Penguins and Parakeets.
Samuel starting shuttling people back to the ship at about 1400. With the tide a little lower we were able to work from the wave platform which made it a little easier. Everybody was back on board by 1500 and the captain lifted the anchor and set a course for Campbell Island. ETA at Campbell Island was about 0600 and the sea and weather conditions in the evening were superb. Most folk chilled out reading, downloading photos or talking. Agnes opened the Sea Shop for a short while as we cruised and the bar opened at 1800 for pre dinner drinks.
Friday 27th December
Campbell Island
We dropped anchor off the old Metrological Base in Perseverance Harbour on Campbell Island at about 0530 in flat calm conditions. Breakfast at 0630 was followed by Rodney’s briefing on the history and wildlife of Campbell Island. He then outlined the options for the day which included a walk to North West Bay, a Zodiac cruise in the upper harbour to the main historical sites and a walk to the Col Lyall Saddle. The group was split about 50/50. Alex, Samuel and Sergey led the North West Bay walk while Rodney, Katya and Agnes led the Zodiac excursion and Col Lyall walk. The North West Bay walkers got away immediately after making their lunch and then the Zodiac Cruise departed for Tucker Cove. Here the group landed at the site of the abandoned farm homestead which was guarded by Sea Lions. From there we cruised around to Camp Cove and made a landing at the site of the ‘loneliest tree’ (a Sitka Spruce) and the ‘Lady of the Heather’. After leaving there we cruised into Garden Cove and past Venus Cove, arriving back aboard the ship at about midday. We enjoyed our picnic lunch on board and then were shuttled ashore to the abandoned metrological base at the start of the boardwalk to Col Lyall. It took about an hour to climb up onto the Col Saddle under sunny skies. The views on the way up were speculator and as Rodney had promised, the albatross activity increased as the afternoon wore on. Later in the day the number of birds increased and the amount of activity increased correspondingly. It was a little early in the season for the megaherbs to be at their best, but they still looked quite beautiful dotting the hillsides.
The North West Bay walkers had made exceptionally good time and Alex called up for a pickup at Camp Cove shortly after 1600. Rodney went back down from the Col Lyall Saddle to do that while Katya and Agnes stayed up at the top. Due to their early return, some of the walkers were able to make their way up the boardwalk towards Col Lyall while the remainder returned to the ship. Alex and Jessie headed off so Jessie could collect more plant specimens for her PhD studies (she had a collecting permit to do this) and didn’t get back until 2200. Everybody else was back on board for dinner at 2000. After dinner Chris (Todd) and some of the crew helped Rodney and staff unload 7 x 200 litre drums of helicopter fuel to be stored as an emergency supply on the island. With that done and Alex and Jessie back on board, everybody retired for the night.
Saturday 28th December
Campbell Island
The Expedition staff were up at 0500 to check the weather and were happy to report to the six people interested in climbing Mt Honey (the highest peak on the island) that conditions were clear so they could make their ascent. Fortunately for the remainder of the group they were woken individually, leaving the rest to snooze on until 0715. After breakfast Rodney gave a briefing on the options available for the day. We could walk from Tucker Cove to the old Coast Watchers hut then to Beeman Base with Agnes, return up the board walk with Samuel or take a Zodiac cruise with Rodney.
Rodney and Samuel dropped the Coast Watch hut walkers off at the head of Tucker Cove where the group saw a Teal and several Elephant Seals. Samuel’s group was next ashore and then Rodney picked up those for the Zodiac cruise which followed the shoreline and had great views of Campbell Island Shags, Antarctic Terns and Yellow-eyed Penguins. They also took the opportunity to photograph the Elephant Seals in Tucker Cove. In Camp Cove Charlotte wanted to have a swim, simply to claim that she had swum at Campbell Island. It was perhaps a highlight for those on the Zodiac cruise to watch her being chased out of the water by a very indignant Sea Lion. There was some discussion over whether he was more upset about that fact that she was swimming at his beach or the fact that her dress code was not up to his standard (she was skinny dipping). It was rather hilarious and fortunately for Charlotte, everybody was too polite to photograph or film it!
At 1100 it was time to collect all the groups. Agnes ran her group out to the ship and picked up those that had been on the board walk while Rodney went up to Garden Cove to collect those that had climbed Mt Honey. We departed Campbell Island at 1200 and set a course for the Port of Bluff whilst keeping an eye on the weather to see if the Snares would be workable. During the afternoon Samuel screened two documentaries about Campbell Island which detailed the rat eradication project and the reintroduction of the Campbell Island Teal. Later Alex gave a botanical recap and Jessie spoke about her studies. After dinner we were invited to a presentation by Olga on Killer Whales (Orca’s) in the Pacific. She talked about her studies in the Commander Islands plus work being done in New Zealand and Antarctica.
Sunday 29th December
At Sea
Being Sunday and a day at sea, breakfast wasn’t scheduled until 0830 so everyone could enjoy a relaxing start to the day. The sea conditions were quite comfortable, with the wind from the NE. We had experienced 8 days of easterly weather, which is unheard of in this part of the world where the prevailing weather is from the Westerly quarter. This meant that unfortunately the Snares remained unworkable. It was still calm enough to use the lecture room so Samuel gave us an interesting talk on the Sea Birds of the Southern Ocean, focusing on the ones that we had seen on this expedition. At midday Katya screened a video called “Blackfish” which is a thought provoking documentary on Killer Whales in captivity. After watching this chilling film it is unlikely anybody from this voyage will go to the SeaWorld Park to see Orcas again. Lunch was served at 1300 and the afternoon was taken up with settling on-board accounts. At 1730 we all gathered in the lecture room for a briefing on disembarkation and a recap of the expedition. The recap, compiled by Katya with photos supplied by herself, Alex, Samuel and Agnes, was excellent and very nicely captured the essence and the spirit of the expedition. We were all invited to download this power point presentation to take home so we could show friends and family. The bar opened at 1830 and most attended for a final glass together before our last dinner on board the Spirit of Enderby. Packing was then the focus of the evening for most.
Monday 30th December
Bluff
The pilot was booked for 0700 but arrived a little early so we were alongside by that time as breakfast was served. The luggage was left outside our cabins before we went to breakfast and the crew delivered it ashore for transfer to our chosen destination. We gathered for a group photo before joining our coach for the trip to Invercargill hotels or airport and said our farewells. It had been a unique and memorable Southern Ocean Christmas for us all.
