1365: Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific 15 Dec 2013

Day 1: 15 Dec 2013

Departing Bluff

We all gathered at the Kelvin Hotel in central Invercargill as checked our bags through the Heritage bag security system with the help of Dave, Max, Martin and the radio operator from the Spirit of Enderby. Bags were loaded onto the truck which left for Bluff immediately. Martin checked us aboard the coach and found that two of the group were not present. Undaunted, we set off for Bluff, leaving Dave to search them out. The trip through the flat countryside past paddocks dotted with herds of red deer, occasional sheep and dairy cattle, took about 30 minutes. We stopped at the wharf security office where we were once again checked by the jovial Port of Bluff wharf security officer. Fortunately Dave located the two missing passengers in the pub in Invercargill having a quiet beer and delivered them to the ship. Aboard the Spirit of Enderby, staff and crew directed us to our cabins where we found our bags, name tags and information about the ship and the Subantarctic islands.

At 1530 Nathan gave a welcome aboard briefing and introduced the expedition team. At 1630 Nathan gave a comprehensive safety briefing followed by Agnès, who described the operation of the domestic side of the services provided on the Spirit of Enderby. The Bluff Harbour Pilot boarded at 1800, mooring lines were dropped and we proceeded slowly out of Bluff Harbour passing the Sterling Point light on the starboard side. Twenty minutes later the pilot launch burbled alongside, the Pilot leapt nimbly aboard and waved us away. Our expedition to the Subantarctic islands had begun! Samuel, Agnès and Alex opened the bar and did brisk trade as we crossed Foveaux Strait. Dinner was called as we progressed south in the lee of Stewart Island where conditions were thankfully calm with just a slow, gentle roll. By 2115 we were due east of the Breaksea Islands and Port Adventure. Most people took advantage of the calm conditions and took to their bunks early.

Day 2: 16 Dec 2013

At Sea

Conditions were not comfortable for new sailors as we headed south east for Campbell Island. At 0700 the wind was NW 20-25kts with a westerly swell of 4m.

The Spirit of Enderby (aka Professor Khromov) is an icebreaker and as such, does not possess such niceties as large, active, wing-like stabilisers protruding from the hull which would be ripped off in the ice. The consequence of this is a propensity to roll like a crewman heading home from the pub after a night of serious drinking. The best place to appreciate this is in the galley. There the chefs produce top quality dishes while under fire from jars of olives escaping from the cupboards, pots slopping mysterious boiling liquids over the stove and jars of sun-dried tomatoes in oil and peeled garlic cloves leaping from the fridge to smash on the tiled floor. Then there are the feats of extraordinary balance and athleticism as the stewardesses, Natalia and Zoya, carry armfuls of food-laden plates through the dining rooms without touching the walls or dropping a thing.

A few hardy souls trickled in for breakfast but left soon after to wedge themselves into the relative safety of the seats in the Bar/Library or take to their bunks – the best place to be in those conditions. Despite this, some of the more vertical bird enthusiasts roamed the decks adding to their lists. The unpleasant conditions prevailed all day.

Day 3: 17 Dec 2013

Campbell Island

We could see the outline of Campbell Island through the murk and entered Perserverance Harbour at about 0715. Martin was up on the bridge deck counting the Sea Lions at the breeding rookery on Davis Point and later the cynically named Paradise Point where Sea Lions have bred in smaller numbers over the last few years. The counts were as follows:

Davis Point: Males (including Beachmasters) 45; Females 35-40 Pups about 6

Paradise Point: Males 3-4; Females 1; pups 0

The Captain dropped anchor opposite Beeman Base, the old Meteorological Station and suddenly all was quiet and still. Passengers we’d not seen since Bluff emerged from their cabins, pale and relieved. At 0815 Nathan gave a comprehensive briefing and introduction to Campbell Island and outlined the plan for the day. There would be a walk to Northwest Bay led by Alex or a climb to the Col Lyall Saddle up the boardwalk.

After breakfast, everyone prepared their own packed lunch for the day with the help of the chefs. The first Zodiac left the ship at 0930 with Alex, Dr Lucinda, Kathryn Pemberton the DOC representative and the Northwest Bay walkers. Later Zodiacs ferried the remainder of the group to Beeman Base from where they could walk up the boardwalk at their own pace and according to their agility. Along the boardwalk the prickly shield fern Polystichum vestitum and the water fern Histiopteris incisa were common, mosses are everywhere and spectacular lichens cling to the trunks of the grass trees Dracophyllum longifolium and D.scoparium. Progress was leisurely as there was a keen group of botanists among the walkers and the temptation to photograph orchids, mosses, lichens etc was constant. About 500m from the first platform on Col Lyall progress for some of the walkers was briefly held up by a large 5-6year old male Sea Lion which had found a pleasant place on the boardwalk to rest. He saw no reason to move when confronted by a group of brightly coloured people but eventually huffed his way off into the tussocks. Surprisingly, Yellow-eyed Penguins are also frequently found way up the boardwalk considerable distances from the sea. The most common bird encountered is the Pipit which is unafraid of humans and will obligingly pose near the camera. Up around Col Lyall three species of the megaherb daisies Pleurophyllum are common as are the two large relatives of carrots Anisotome latifolia and A. antipoda, along with the iconic bright yellow subantarctic lily Bulbinella rossi. The gentian Gentiana antarctica is endemic to Campbell Island as is the beautiful blue flowered hebe H.benthamii found next to the boardwalk.

At the Col Lyall saddle the Southern Royal Albatrosses begin flying around in the mid to late afternoon and most of the walkers had started back down the boardwalk by then. True to form, we saw albatross soaring overhead between 3-4pm. We watched a couple of greeting ceremonies but activity was slow and the last walkers departed from Col Lyall around 1630. What you miss with one species you often make up for with another however. As the last group of walkers reached Beeman Base they flushed a Snipe and watched Teal and a young Elephant Seal puddling about just off the wharf. Once everyone was back on board and rigorous boot washing was completed, most made their way to the bar for a refresher while Nathan set the activity plan for the next day.

Day 4: 18 Dec 2013

Campbell Island

At 0500 Nathan, Samuel and Martin met on the bridge to assess weather suitability for the Mt Honey climb. Unfortunately it was raining backed by a stiff north westerly wind and the fog was down to sea level so the walk was cancelled. The botany enthusiasts were ferried ashore at 0800 to begin a short walk up Col Lyall boardwalk once again while the remaining passengers took a Zodiac shoreline cruise. We noted that the ‘resident’ Sea Lions, Teal and young Elephant Seal were still present at the Beeman Base and then made our way to Tucker Cove. This was the site of the ill fated farm where the jetties and the fence line up the hill could still be seen. Giant Petrels and Antarctic Terns were present near the entrance to the cove. We motored on into Camp Cove where people could see the lone Sitka Spruce, reputedly planted by Lord Ranfurly in the early 1920s, and now known as ‘The loneliest tree in the world’ if you believe the Guinness Book of Records . The Zodiacs then moved on into Garden Cove, where sealers reputedly planted root vegetables to sustain themselves. By this time the wind had risen and the rain started. Nathan called the boats back to the Spirit of Enderby, and arranged for the botanists with Alex to be picked up. By 1100 we were all back on board, the Zodiacs stowed and secured for the passage north. An early lunch was announced so we could eat in the relative lee of Campbell Island’s east coast.

At 1130 Captain Dimitry lifted the anchor and the Spirit of Enderby departed Perserverance Harbour. We steamed up the coast, passing North East Harbour and the Bull Rock albatross colony before rounding North Cape and setting what was to be a lumpy course into the wind and sea northwest en route to the Auckland Islands.

At 1500 Martin gave a lecture on Hooker’s (New Zealand) Sea Lions in the Bar/Library. He covered the natural history and population status of this animal, which we would see in good numbers on Enderby Island.

Day 5: 19 Dec 2013

Enderby Island

The Spirit of Enderby dropped anchor at 0430, 500m offshore from Sandy Bay, Enderby Island, the northernmost of the Auckland Islands. After a dreadful night the weather had improved and the southerly wind had dropped. By 0800 the sky was clear and the sea calm delivering perfect conditions for our landing.

The first Zodiac went in to assess the landing site and dropped wader-clad Alex and Martin off to assist with landings. The group was then ferried ashore by Zodiacs where they landed on the rock platform west of the beach. When the tide is right, landings there are easy and all stepped ashore to be met by two pairs of Auckland Island Teal dibbling about in tide pools and under the kelp. We walked past territory holding bachelor Sea Lions and climbed up to the old boatshed constructed originally in 1888 by the crew of the Stella (Capt. Fairchild). There the lifejackets were stowed in bins and gumboots changed for walking boots before setting off. Nathan gave us three options to choose from: a short walk to the top of the boardwalk taking in the Sooty Albatrosses before returning; a walk concentrating on botany with Alex; or a long walk around the eastern end of the island back to Sandy Bay.

Choices made, we passed the Stella shipwreck provision hut (1880) and set off up the boardwalk through the wind-twisted Rata forest. Red-crowned parakeets and Bellbirds were seen flitting through the canopy. The boardwalk wound its way out of the forest and through the wind sculpted rata, myrsine and aromatic Cassinia bushes. About 200m up the boardwalk a Royal Albatross was sitting serenely on its nest about 1m away. We walked through the meadow of yellow Bulbinella rossi interspersed with pink flowering Anisotome megaherbs and beautiful clumps of gentians ranging in colour from white to deep magenta. At the top of the boardwalk Martin flushed two Snipe as we walked toward the Sooty Albatross which were nesting on the cliffs. Those feeling like a short walk or botanising went back down the boardwalk, while the long walkers set off at a rapid pace as they had to get back to the beach by about 1600. Martin went down to spend time watching Sea Lions which had only recently begun pupping.

While walking between Derry Castle Reef and Northeast Bay, Isabella and Yuin saw a whale rolling about not far offshore, which Yuin managed to photograph. The animal turned out to be a Right Whale. Observations of Right Whales in the summer are unusual but not rare. At this time they are seen solo or in pairs. During June-July these whales come into Port Ross to breed and more than 150 have been recorded there in a single day.

By 1430 people had begun to drift back toward the Boatshed. The first Zodiac took passengers back to the ship at 1500 then hourly after that. The long walkers began to arrive back at the beach around 1600 and spent time watching the Sea Lions pupping. At 1000 Martin had counted 15 pups and 1 stillborn pup. By 1600 there were 32 pups and 1 stillborn pup. Watching pups being born, bonding with their mothers then suckling is an unforgettable experience for most people. Also unforgettable is the speed and efficiency of the ever present Skuas in cleaning up the beach! By 1800 all expeditioners were back on board and the Bar/Library was buzzing with conversation after a superb day.

(c)ABreniere Expeditioners and ship at Sandy Bay Enderby Island
Enderby Island - Expeditioners and Hooker's Sea Lion. Photo credit: ABreniere

Day 6: 20 Dec 2013

Auckland Island

As we proceeded south toward Carnley Harbour in the lee of Auckland Island we could see the clouds speeding downwind at a good 25kts. At about 0800 we entered Carnley Harbour between the main island and Adams Island and were confronted by a very strong northerly wind lifting whitecaps everywhere. The wind was driving heavy rain showers and dense clouds hung well down the hill slopes. The Captain dropped anchor in Tagua Bay in the lee of Musgrave Peninsula and those wanting to go ashore made ready for a walk through the Rata Forest to the Tagua Bay Coast watchers hut and lookout.

Once all the walkers were ashore, the Zodiacs were anchored and we set off up the track toward the Coastwatcher site. The walk to the hut site took about 20 minutes through dripping Rata forest. At the midway point along the track we got reasonable views of the harbour toward Figure of Eight Island which was just visible through the rain and murk. The accommodation hut is now a sorry ruin of delaminating plywood panels and rusting iron. The kitchen still contains the original Shacklock Orion wood stove, now descending through the rotting floor. On the shelves opposite there were tins which once held raisins, sugar, powdered ginger and other necessities, rusting away. We moved on to the Tagua observation hut with its view straight down Carnley Harbour to the entrance. This 2m square building, in contrast to the main accommodation hut, is in good condition and still dry inside. By 1130 the weather had not improved and we made our way back down to the shore of Tagua Bay where the Zodiacs began ferrying us back to the ship.

Everyone was back aboard for lunch as the weather began to clear and the clouds were lifting. After clearing Carnley Harbour, Captain Dimitry set our course for the Snares Islands, our last stop on the way back to New Zealand. During the afternoon Samuel gave an excellent lecture on Sir James Clark Ross one of the most eminent polar explorers of the 19^th century. Port Ross is named after him.

Day 7: 21 Dec 2013

The Snares

In the morning we arrived off the Snares Islands where conditions looked promising for a Zodiac cruise, despite the quite heavy swell which made boarding both Zodiacs and the ship at the end of the cruise quite an athletic event. The Spirit of Enderby was hove to and as the weather cleared, 4 Zodiacs were launched, collected their passengers without incident and motored close inshore. The sun came out and the weather could not have been better for Zodiac cruising. The drivers explained the geology and vegetation of the islands and introduced us to the very special birdlife. We saw Snares Tomtits, Snares Fernbirds, Snares Crested Penguins, Sooty Shearwaters (over 1.5 million pairs), great rafts of Cape Petrels, Buller’s Albatross and Antarctic Terns. Along the shore the local Hebe elliptica bushes fringed the vegetation beneath the dominant tree daisy forest of Olearia lyalli and Brachyglottis stewartiae. As we cruised around the coves near the Biological Station we were followed by juvenile male Sea Lions. The last site visited along the shore was the spectacular Penguin Slide. Here the glittering muscovite granite cliff rises from the sea at an angle of about 35°. At the tide line a small patch about 3m wide has been scraped clear of kelp by penguins landing. Above this, the rock face has been cleared of vegetation and peat all the way to the colonies on top by generations of penguins daily passing up and down. At 1030 we had to move back to our rendezvous point and 30 minutes later we were safely aboard again with Zodiacs secured for the trip to Bluff.

Our course was set for the 64nm trip north to Stewart Island. The rest of the day was taken up with settlement of onboard accounts with Agnès, Nathan’s disembarkation briefing and our final dinner onboard. The chefs really did us proud with a buffet style final dinner which included roast turkey or roast beef with vegetables and all the trimmings, followed by Dean’s famous tiramisu which, if lit, would burn with a blue flame. At 2010 we dropped anchor off The Neck in calm seas with no roll so all enjoyed a restful night.

Day 8: 22 Dec 2013

Bluff

After breakfast all bags, colour-marked for their destination, were put out into the corridors then quickly offloaded onto the wharf and into the luggage truck. At 0900 it was time to bid farewell to our fellow travellers and board the bus which took us away from the The Spirit of Enderby, our home for the last 8 days.