1361: Birding Down Under 14 Nov 2013

Thursday 14 November 
Invercargill

We gathered at the Kelvin Hotel, Invercargill from around the globe, all in happy anticipation of our adventure on the Southern Ocean. At dinner we met our Expedition Leader Rodney Russ and his son Nathan who is responsible for the operation of their Russian owned and crewed vessel the Professor Khromov, better known to us as the Spirit of Enderby. Rodney outlined the programme for tomorrow and we retired to our rooms to prepare for boarding tomorrow.

Friday 15 November
Bluff and departure

Our luggage was collected and transferred to the ship, so we were free to explore Invercargill or visit the very interesting Southland Museum. There we saw the excellent Southern Ocean exhibit and the weird native Tuataras which can be linked to the dinosaurs. We reassembled at the hotel at 2pm for the transfer to Bluff where we boarded the ship and were shown to our cabins. After some time to unpack we gathered in the Lecture Room for a formal introduction to the Expedition Team and a ship briefing from Rodney and Cruise Director, Meghan. Light rain had started to fall after the Life Boat drill so most of us adjourned to the bar for a social drink before dinner. Adam convened the first meeting for what was to become a regular after dinner feature for the voyage – the reading of the bird list. Then it was time to retire for the night and dream of adventures to come.


Departing Bluff.  Photo credit: ABreniere

Saturday 16 November 
The Snares

The ship was rocking and rolling all night so sleep was difficult and there were many bleary eyes at the 6.45am breakfast. We had arrived off the Snares in the early hours and drifted off South Bay as Captain Dmitry and Rodney assessed whether we could take the planned Zodiac cruise. Winds were NW at about 20 knots but conditions were marginal due to a heavy swell. We went ahead with the Zodiac briefing and waited while conditions were assessed. At around 8.30 we were off in the 5 Zodiacs driven by Adam, Samuel, Meghan, Agnes and Rodney. We made our way between the main island and Broughton Island to Hoho Bay where we found ourselves in a very sheltered little inlet favoured by numerous Snares Crested Penguins. A few New Zealand Fur Seals dozed on the rocks and further up the hill lay the occasional Sea Lion. Fernbirds and Tomtits in the area were most obliging and many good images were captured by inquisitive lenses. Unfortunately our visit to this little oasis was cut short due to a predicted wind change to the SW, so we raced back to the ship and headed further South towards the Auckland Islands.

The afternoon was spent listening to an introduction to the Auckland Islands from Rodney and bird watching from the bridge and all decks. A small pod of Long Finned Pilot Whales was pointed out by Adam around 5pm. Then it was time for dinner with a choice of delicious New Zealand lamb or chicken for the main course, followed by the regular reading of the bird list in the bar.


Snares Crested Penguins.  Photo credit: MKelly

Sunday 17 November 
Enderby Island

A grey dawn greeted us as we sat off Port Ross, on Enderby Island. The ship had arrived there around 2am and dropped anchor in the sheltered harbour of ‘Sara’s Bosom’ so we had enjoyed a much needed restful sleep in the calm waters. Two Zodiacs were launched after our morning briefing, gear cleaning and lunch packing to shuttle the group ashore. We ran the gauntlet of inquisitive male Hookers Sea Lions on landing and assembled on the beach and set off to walk the boardwalk across the island. It was surprising and exciting to see a New Zealand Falcon in the landing area. Along the way the distinctive shapes of nesting Southern Royal Albatross could be seen and flying overhead were Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. A Yellow-eyed Penguin had very obligingly decided to make a home right next to the boardwalk and a researcher had set up camera equipment there to monitor the bird’s movements. Once we reached the Western Cliffs the group split up to look for Subantarctic Snipe. All groups were successful in this challenge, and then moved on to look at Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nesting on the cliffs. At this point Adam led the way for people wanting to walk to Derry Castle Reef with Rodney at the end of the group. During their long walk around the island they saw several more Snipe, Yellow-eyed Penguins (one even up a small Rata tree), Auckland Island Flightless Teal (which were nesting so fairly shy) and Banded Dotterel.  In and around the Rata forests many Tui, Bellbirds, Pipits and Red Crowned Parakeets were seen. One of the more memorable scenes of the day was watching several Giant Petrels tearing into a New Zealand Fur Seal carcass on the rocks.

Samuel and Agnes led the remainder of the group back along the boardwalk towards Sandy Bay once more. Some of us decided to walk through the tussock towards the beach where the female Sea Lions would be hauled out prior to giving birth at Sandy Bay. Samuel accompanied us and found a nice sheltered spot in the tussock for our picnic lunch. Soon after setting out again we came across a Yellow-eyed Penguin just a few metres away from where we had been reclining. On our return it was a challenge to pass through the many male Sea Lions who seemed to like to congregate on the grass near the DOC huts above Sandy Bay. One in particular seemed to take a great liking to Agnes and appeared determined to have her in his harem. The last Zodiac shuttle left the beach at 7pm and all reported to have had a wonderful day on this unique island.

The reading of the bird list took place before a dinner of venison or pork, and most retired early after the exertions of the day.

Hookers Sealion and Spirit of Enderby on Enderby Island, Auckland Islands. Photo credit: ABreniere

Monday 18 November
Carnley Harbour, Auckland Islands

Rain and low cloud accompanied our entry into Carnley Harbour, so Rodney postponed the morning briefing until he had had time to assess the best options for the day. It was clear that the climb to see the Shy Mollymawk Colony on South West Cape would certainly not be worth the effort in such claggy conditions, so that would not be on the agenda. He decided we would make a brief landing at Epigwatt where the Grafton was wrecked in 1864. All five men aboard survived this wreck and built a hut here where they lived for 18 months before sailing their modified dinghy to New Zealand. The remains of the ship and their hut can still be seen. A hardy few of our group ventured out in the inclement weather to take a stroll around the area and to look for Yellow-crowned Parakeets in the surrounding mossy and moist Rata forest.

Tuesday 19 November
At Sea

It was a choppy ride south towards Macquarie Island, with many preferring the comfort of their bunks to the windy decks. Chefs Bruce and Dean and wait staff Natalia and Katya did a magnificent job of preparing and serving meals under extremely difficult circumstances.


Riding the ocean waves.  Enroute to Macquarie Island.  Photo credit: MKelly

Wednesday 20 November
Sandy Bay, Macquarie Island

We came to anchor at 2am off Buckles Bay, the site of the ANARE base. Rodney went ashore and returned with the Station Leader, Mark Gasson, Chief Ranger Chris and Ranger Kris. They remained on board as we cruised south to Sandy Bay where everyone was ferried ashore by Zodiac for free time to observe the King and Royal Penguins and Elephant Seals. It was sunny and a balmy 5 degrees when we arrived, but the wind chill factor made it seem colder, particularly when sleet showers swept by with some regularity. We were met on shore by Dana, Billy and Ange, 3 of the hunters who patrol the island with their dogs looking for rabbits, rats and mice. They were glad of our company and happy to share their experiences of living in such a remote and challenging place. The wildlife was prolific and the sounds and smells very memorable, particularly in the Royal Penguin colony at the end of the boardwalk. Fat young male Elephant Seals lay in a pile burping, grunting, scratching and wrestling for space while cute weaners lay all around the beach waiting for mothers who will no longer return. Fluffballs of grey feathers disguised emerging King Penguins while adults, some still moulting, trudged to and fro for no apparent reason. A pair of Brown Skuas nested just near the boardwalk to the Royal Penguin colony, nice and handy for a takeaway meal whenever they felt hungry, penguin eggshells around the nest testament to their preferred snack. We saw one lone Chinstrap Penguin wandering the beach, which seemed to take a great interest in us, perhaps in the hope that we might keep him company until he could find others of his kind. Two Macquarie Shags sat preening on the point as we departed. As one of the last Zodiacs made its way back to the ship for lunch a small pod of around 6 Orca was spotted, with one large male clearly visible above the waves. They were no doubt cruising the coast on the lookout for unsuspecting weaners. Most of the group returned to Sandy Bay after lunch for another walk amongst the prolific wildlife, which apart from the odd peck or grunt, seemed unaware of these long lens toting humans. It had been a wonderful day on this magnificent stretch of Macquarie coastline.


Sandy Bay, Macquarie Island.  Photo credit: SBlanc

Thursday 21 November
Buckles Bay, Macquarie Island

Snow had covered the island overnight, so we admired the glistening coastline as we made our way south to view the huge Royal Penguin colony on the Southern tip of the island. Conditions were too cold and blustery for a Zodiac cruise so we saw what we could from the ship and returned north to anchor off Buckles Bay. There we went ashore under sunny skies and were split into 5 groups to tour the ANARE Base (founded in 1947) and the surrounding area in the company of base staff. Just opposite the landing site and all along the approach road to the base, Gentoo Penguins were nesting with one or two chicks. It was wonderful to be able to see them so close. Very close to this site of new life stood a sombre reminder of the past in the form of rusting digesters which had been used by employees of Josef Hack to render penguins to oil when the Elephant Seal population had been decimated. The beach on the Western side of the small isthmus was a wild and windy place, littered with Elephant Seal weaners, kelp, rocks and the occasional pile of weathering bones. The colours of the sea here were nothing short of spectacular, ranging from deep aqua to a vivid blue. Elephant Seals lay everywhere, taking shelter in the work sheds around the base, although the station proper is afforded a little protection by a fence. This did not deter one huge male however who had managed to break down a section and make himself at home in a cosy spot between two of the buildings. Staff have thus far been unable to get him to budge, and can only wait until the monster decides to move on. Inside the station mess the ‘postmaster’ stamped our mail and our passports at a table next to the bar while we viewed the wall of photos showing staff from ages past. It was interesting to see one of our group as a young man (with long flowing locks) who had been the base doctor here in his younger days. All too soon it was time to transfer back to the ship, with Zodiacs pausing at a rocky outcrop on the ride back to see some Rockhopper Penguins. After a late lunch we said farewell to this wonderful island, departing on our journey to Campbell Island at 3pm.


Elephant Seal roadblock, Buckles Bay, Macquarie Island.  Photo credit: ABreniere

As we sailed today we enjoyed lectures from Samuel on Penguins, Adam on Prions of the Southern Ocean and Agnes on Albatross. Later Rodney gave an introduction to Campbell Island. Birders spent much of the day on deck scanning the skies, recording a number of Blue Petrels, while others sorted their numerous Macquarie Island photos, caught up on their reading or dozed.

Saturday 23 November
Campbell Island

We came to anchor in Perseverance Harbour at around 3.30am. At 8.45am Rodney departed with a group of 15 to enjoy a day long walk which included skirting Col Peak to Windless Cove and returning to Camp Cove. Next Adam set off with a group to Garden Cove where they walked along the foot of Mt Honey on a hunt for the Campbell Island Snipe. The difficult walk was worth it and they returned triumphantly with photographs of this elusive species. The remainder of the group went for a Zodiac cruise stopping off firstly at Tucker Cove where we examined the only remaining relic of the original homestead, the redoubtable Shacklock stove. Our next landing was at Camp Cove, where the ‘loneliest tree in the world’ (according to the Guinness Book of Records) sits guarded by Hooker’s Sea Lions, one of which seemed very keen to board one of the Zodiacs, and then escorted us towards Garden Cove. Along the coastline we saw half a dozen Campbell Island Flightless Teal, numerous New Zealand Pipits and a couple of White-fronted Terns. On our way back to the ship we saw a young Southern Royal Albatross attempting to launch into the skies from the sea without much luck. He probably needs more time to work on his technique. Once back aboard it was time for some lunch before donning the wet weather gear again for our 1.30pm landing to walk the boardwalk on the Col Lyall Saddle between Col Peak and Mt Lyall.

Adam led the way up the boardwalk towards the Southern Royal Albatross which we could see nesting in large numbers. The boardwalk made walking much easier for the humans, and also for the wildlife. We encountered two Hookers Sea Lions very high up on the walkway who obviously make a habit of using this most convenient thoroughfare and are not so inclined to share it. After some persuasion the groups made it safely past these growling creatures. The Bulbinella rossii (commonly known as the Ross Lily) were in flower, dotting the landscape with yellow and very close to the walkway we saw the Blue Hebe in flower – the deep blue with a hint of mauve made a very pretty sight. There were Southern Royal Albatross dotted all over the hillside, and one even decided stroll right past the group and across the boardwalk. It then climbed to the top of a small ridge and after a few moments launched into the stiff breeze. It was truly magnificent to see this huge bird in close-up. One pair was observed mating and other birds were displaying and ‘sky calling’. More birds appeared as the afternoon wore on. The walk back down to the bay was less challenging due to the one remaining Sea Lion being in an easier spot to pass. Samuel and a few others had the privilege of being approached by a Campbell Flightless Teal while waiting for transfer back to the ship. It actually walked right up to him and nibbled at his fingers. A truly memorable moment with the world’s rarest duck! 

Rodney’s group also reported a very successful day scrambling through the scrub and sliding down muddy patches. They found huge numbers of albatross at the top of the ridge. They had also seen teal on the coast and a nesting Campbell Island Snipe right next to the track. By 7.30pm everybody was back on board for dinner at 8pm.


Southern Royal Albatross, Campbell Island.  Photo credit: ABreniere

Sunday 24 November
At Sea

When not out on deck we enjoyed some documentaries and lectures while making our way from Campbell Island to the Antipodes. Firstly there was a double feature on Pest Eradication on Campbell and then Macquarie Islands. Adam followed with an introduction to the cetaceans of the Southern Ocean. After lunch we saw a documentary detailing how the Campbell Island Flightless Teal was rescued and re-introduced to the island. Samuel ended the day’s presentations with a talk about Sir James Clark Ross, asking “was he the greatest Subantarctic explorer ever?” Dinner offered a choice of salmon or venison.

Monday 25 November
Antipodes Islands

When we awoke we still had some way to go until our arrival off the Antipodes. Rodney gave an introduction to the Antipodes and Bounties at 10am and most spent the rest of the time on deck in light winds and calm seas. We came to anchor in Anchorage Bay in the Antipodes after our arrival at around midday. After lunch it was time to venture out under sunny skies in the Zodiacs for a closer look at these rocky outposts where we were lucky enough to see Erect-crested and Rockhopper Penguins and Antipodes and Reischek’s Parakeets. During the journey south from Anchorage Bay to Leeward Island and back we also saw numerous New Zealand Fur Seals, a few Elephant Seal weaners and a lone Subantarctic Fur Seal surveying us from the rocks. We spent a wonderful two hours exploring caves and inlets along the rocky coastline of these seldom visited islands. The ship stayed at anchor until after dinner at 7.30pm when we set out to cover the 70 miles to the Bounty Islands.


Antipodes Islands.  Photo credit: ABreniere

Tuesday 26 November
Bounty Islands

We reached the Bounty Islands at around 6.30am. The swell was too large to Zodiac cruise these giant volcanic rocks which had been thrust up from the seabed in relatively recent geological times. The ship made three passes of the islands which we could see were teeming with birdlife. Many hundreds of Salvin’s Albatross flew over the decks or were grouped on the surface, and as Rodney had promised, the Bounty Islands Shags also flew out to investigate the ship. As we departed, Adam did some chumming which attracted a large amount of interest, particularly from the Salvins. At 10.30am Meghan and Agnes opened the Sea Shop in the Port side dining room and did a brisk trade. The rest of the day was spent on the decks in the bright sunshine. We continued to enjoy excellent sailing conditions and Rodney was very pleased with our progress towards the Chatham Islands.


Bounty Islands.  Photo credit: MKelly

Wednesday 27 November
Pyramid Rock, Chatham Islands

After a 7.30am breakfast, Rodney called us all to a briefing to discuss our activities in the Chathams. He announced that the privately funded Taiko Trust had offered to take people for a close up viewing of the Taiko (or Magenta Petrel) at their Sweetwater property in exchange for a NZD1,000 donation. Four people signed up for this rare and very special experience to see one of the world’s rarest seabirds with an estimated population of less than 150.

Adam did some chumming from the back deck and attracted hundreds of albatross including Salvins, Chatham Islands, Buller’s, Northern Royal, Southern Royal and Black-browed. Rodney gave a general introduction to the Chatham Islands as we cruised the calm seas.

We reached Pyramid Rock at around 1pm and the ship completed a circumnavigation of this distinctive Chatham Islands landmark showing bright patches of bright pink ‘Ice Plant’ flowers dotted around its steep sides. We were fortunate to be able to see it in all its glory in bright sunshine with the deep blue sky as a backdrop. New Zealand Fur Seals relaxed on the rocks at its base, possibly taking a break from checking out the numerous cray pots which were places at regular intervals. Meanwhile various bird species including Chatham Islands Albatross and terns surveyed us from high above. Rodney had checked the Chatham’s weather forecast and decided that since a strong Easterly front was coming we should take the opportunity today to take a Zodiac cruise along the lee of South East Island before wind and swell made it impossible.

We set off after a late lunch, and although conditions were not ideal, as Rodney said it was “now or never”. We managed to see numerous Pitt Island Shags sitting along rocky ledges and Shore Plovers darting amongst the rocks. Little Blue Penguins, Tuis, Tomtits, Buller’s Albatross and Pipits were also in evidence. Some caught fleeting glimpse of parrots, but the Black Robin was a little too difficult to locate from the shore. Zodiacs back aboard, we headed for Waitangi.

Thursday 28 November
Waitangi, Chatham Islands

We slipped quietly into our anchorage off Waitangi at around 1.30am and received Megan’s 5.45am wake-up call for a 6am breakfast. After breakfast we attended a short briefing from Rodney, packed our lunches and were ferried ashore for a day on the main island. The group was delighted by the timely appearance of a Chathams Oyster Catcher which obligingly waited near the pier where we landed. School buses then transferred us to the Tuku Reserve, Bruce and Liz Tuanui’s property, where we walked a track through native bush to the sea and most got to see the Chatham Island Pigeon and Chatham Grey Warbler. Fantails and Weka were also seen, but as steady rain began to fall many cut their walk short and picnicked in the buses. Four of the group took the opportunity to be taken inside the predator proof fence at Springwater to see the Taiko or Magenta Petrel. They declared it a magnificent experience well worth the large donation to the programme. 

We returned to the township and enjoyed some free time to explore. Probably due to the now heavy and persistent rain, most made a bee-line for the pub and had a few cultural exchanges with the locals, along with hot and cold drinks. Chefs Bruce and Dean were already in residence in the bar playing darts. Rodney announced that he had heard from the Captain that conditions in the bay were not good for retrieving everyone from Zodiacs so he had decided to move the ship to another anchorage further around the island. The trusty school buses having returned from their primary task of returning children home from school would transfer us by road to the new location. Unfortunately when the ship arrived at this new point it was discovered that conditions there were even worse, so the ship returned to the original anchorage. However the only safe way to board the Zodiacs was off the beach which meant we would all get very wet. We boarded the buses again and headed for the beach which by this time was a very wet and windswept place to be. Fortunately the very kind bus drivers allowed us to wait on board until Cally called us in groups of 8 to go down and meet Meghan on the shore where we donned our lifejackets. One of the Russian crew, Doctor Roger, Agnes and Meghan man-handled the craft on shore as Rodney and Samuel drove to and from the ship. It was a wild and wet ride and everyone got soaked but hot showers and drinks cheered us on our return.

Once everyone was back aboard, Rodney announced that there was no point in us staying in the Chathams as the weather was only going to deteriorate further, so we would set a course for Dunedin that night after dinner, cutting our time short by half a day. We had had excellent weather up until then but the ‘purple patch’ had now come to an end. Some keen birders stayed on the bridge or out on deck in the 40 knot winds as dinner was served at 7.30pm and were rewarded with sightings of the rare Taiko or Magenta Petrel and the Chatham Islands Petrel. It was a fitting end to an eventful day as we bade farewell to our last island at 10.30pm.


Chatham Islands forest.  Photo credit: MKelly

Friday 29 November
At Sea

The ship was rocking and rolling quite a lot all day so lectures were suspended. Bird species highlights included the Great Shearwater, Fluttering Shearwaters, Gould’s, Black-winged and Westland Petrels.

Saturday 30 November
At Sea

Another day of heavy swells meant many hunkered down in their cabins. Those who ventured onto the bridge or upper decks saw a large Sperm Whale early in the morning. Bird species of note included Hutton’s, Fluttering and Flesh-footed Shearwaters. In the late afternoon Rodney gave a presentation on the Spoon-billed Sandpiper and the work Heritage is doing to support its conservation in the Russian Far East.


Enroute to the mainland of New Zealand again.  Photo credit: MKelly

Sunday 1 December
At Sea

It was our final day at sea on the long trek back to New Zealand’s South Island. During the morning Samuel gave a presentation on his winter at the French base in Antarctica. Some spent a last day enjoying the sunshine on deck while others began packing. Megan and Agnes finalised the ship accounts and at 5pm we all gathered in the Lecture Room for the last time for a briefing about our disembarkation and a recap of the expedition highlights. Rodney thanked everyone for entering into the spirit of the expedition and each team member said a few words. Adam then gave a short summary of the wildlife highlights and commented that we had counted a staggering 49 tubenoses (later revised to 48) which is a new record for this itinerary. He gave credit to the many sharp eyed birders in the group who put in long hours on the bridge and decks. Rodney then asked the two Enderby Trust recipients, Henry and Joshua to sum up their experience in a few words. Henry was unusually reticent but said he would be drawing the birds for years to come. The gathering ended with the showing of a beautiful slide show Meghan had put together from photos she, Agnes and Samuel had taken during the voyage. This presentation was available in the bar afterwards for everyone to copy onto their laptops, tablets and memory sticks to take home. Dinner was a buffet extravaganza as Bruce and Dean pulled out all the stops to make it a memorable last meal together. ‘Second stomachs’ were required to do the dessert selection justice. Reluctantly we tore ourselves away from the dining rooms to continue packing or take a final few photographs of the beautiful sunset.

Monday 2 December
Dunedin

The pilot boarded at 5am and guided us into the inner harbour to the port of Dunedin where we came alongside at 7am. After Customs clearance we posed for an official group photo on the wharf and then boarded buses for transfer to the city or airport. We had spent a wonderful few weeks together, made and cemented many friendships and seen islands and wildlife many can only dream about. We may not meet again, but the memories and photos will linger on. Sail well my shipmates!


Spirit of Enderby.  Photo credit: MKelly