1363: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 3 Dec 2013
Day 1: 3 December 2013
Dunedin
At 9am the bus swept onto the wharf in Dunedin and expeditioners began to board the Spirit of Enderby (aka Professor Khromov) and luggage and cabins were organized. Once aboard most found the deck where entertainment was provided by a pipe band, augmented by a saxophone, piano accordion and singing guitarist. An addition to the band was one very burly, beautifully socialized and friendly dog belonging to one of the wharf workers. He was obviously accustomed to the wharf-side environment and pranced and gamboled about as the band played a selection of Scottish tunes and some updated medleys.
At 1000 we slipped our moorings and the Spirit of Enderby, guided by the pilot, proceeded down the channel heading for the open sea. Off the Aramoana Mole the Dunedin pilot boat burbled alongside to collect the pilot waiting on the rope ladder hanging down the ship’s side. With a nimble ‘Zorro-like’ leap the pilot landed on the deck of his vessel and waved us off. We rounded Tairoa Head where we could see Royal Albatrosses nesting amongst the long grass and soaring over the upper slopes of the Head. At 1130 we filed down through the ship to the lecture room where Nathan gave his informative introduction to the ship and the staff.
It was not long before we felt the gentle roll and lift of the open sea. Captain Dimitry Zinchenko set our course for the Subantarctic islands and the voyage began. Lunch was announced and the chefs produced the first in a series of superb meals which we would enjoy throughout the voyage.
At 1330 we all participated in the mandatory lifeboat drill which precedes every voyage. As the alarms rang (7 bells followed by one long one) expeditioners donned their life jackets and made their way to the boat deck where all climbed into the bright orange lifeboats. Conditions in full lifeboats can only be described as ‘intimate’, but what better way to meet your fellow travellers? Passengers were advised that the boats contain food and water for a full complement for about 6 days. “Excuse me” said one querulous voice, “but where do we go to the bathroom?” In the afternoon Nathan gave his introductory lecture on the use of the Zodiac inflatables and followed that with an illustrated introduction to the Snares Islands, our first destination.
Conditions for our first day at sea were superb. A light northwesterly wind and sea followed us as we made our way south past Saddle Hill, the Catlins coast, Murderers Bay and Nugget Point. The evening meal was excellent and the sunset beautiful as we sailed south along the east coast of Stewart Island. 
Departing Otago Harbour. Photo credit: A.Breniere
Day 2: 4 December 2013
Snares Islands
Weather forecast: Northerlies 15-20kts freshening to 40-45kts in the afternoon, swell from north at 2-3m. Sea conditions moved from benign to decidedly more malignant overnight and the run on sick bags was like the New Year sales.
0730 Breakfast was attended by a few hearty stalwarts and a parade of pale faces who had to rapidly learn the art of eating cereals without spilling the milk.
During the morning Samuel and Martin were on the bridge birding and whale watching respectively. Samuel saw our first Mottled Petrel of the trip and some Sooty Shearwaters. Martin saw three whale blows but the height of the swell and the wind speed prevented identification. As we travelled south, moving out of the lee of Stewart Island, conditions became increasingly rough. Nathan decided it was too rough for the planned Zodiac cruise of the Snares Islands and the ship would travel as close as possible to the islands to allow passengers a relatively close look instead. Wisely, in deference to the tender state of many of the passengers and aware that in rolling conditions sitting in the lecture room is akin to being inside a galloping cow’s stomach, Nathan postponed the mid-afternoon lecture. Meanwhile the super-keen bird watchers were out on deck while other passengers popped in and out the doors to get some fresh air. At 1620 a pod of 6 Common Dolphins was seen 15-20m off the port side. Among the birds seen were Wandering, Royal and Salvin’s Albatrosses, Black Bellied Storm Petrels, White-chinned and Giant Petrels and a Thin-billed Prion.
The wet aft-deck is particularly slippery in a heavy roll as one of our number discovered when he fell onto his back and shot towards the gate where, fortunately, he prevented himself from being the first man-overboard with a well placed foot on the superstructure. During this caper his grandson stood aghast, mouth open, clutching his camera – but no photos. What a missed opportunity! Up on the port side 400 level, another passenger, unused to the roll, inadvertently toppled out through the open door onto the deck among the legs of those lining the rail. One of the staff got her upright and back inside, shaken but not bent. Some minutes later she took another tumble and fell down the stairs tragically breaking her femur in the process. Dr Sam, an A&E expert, rapidly attended to her in the ship’s hospital and made her as comfy as possible for the overnight run back to Port Pegasus, Stewart Island, while Nathan arranged for her to be helicoptered off the ship the next morning and taken to Kew Hospital in Invercargill.
The meals today were again excellent even though they were prepared under very trying conditions by chefs Bruce and Dean. What a shame 31 crème caramels remained uneaten. The “Mal de Mer” won again!
Snares Islands. Photo credit: S.Blanc
Day 3: 5 December 2013
Stewart Island
After breakfast in the sheltered, bush-clad calm of Port Pegasus, one of New Zealand’s most beautiful natural harbours, Martin gave a comprehensive introductory talk on the Hooker’s (New Zealand) Sea Lion which we were to encounter in coming days at Sandy Bay, Enderby Island. At about 1000 our unfortunate patient was taken by Zodiac into North Arm at Port Pegasus where she was uplifted and flown by helicopter to Invercargill for further treatment. As soon as Nathan returned, the Zodiac was loaded and secured and Captain Dimitry resumed our course south to Enderby Island.
After lunch, Samuel gave an introductory talk on sea birds of the region illustrated with some exceptional photographs. At 1530 everyone went to the Bar/Library where the DOC rep, Kirsten Ralph, was overseeing the important task of cleaning and vacuuming all packs and walking gear to be taken ashore of any vegetable matter to prevent the accidental introduction of alien seeds to at Enderby Island.
The last talk of the day was Nathan’s fascinating introduction to the Auckland Islands. He covered the geological history, sealing, settlement, the shipwrecks, farming, the wartime activities of the ‘Cape Expedition’ coast watchers and finally, the implementation of reserve status and removal of feral animals.
Day 4: 6 December 2013
Auckland Islands - Enderby Island
At 0430 the Spirit of Enderby dropped anchor about 500m offshore from Sandy Bay, the location of the second largest breeding rookery of New Zealand Sea Lions. The weather was not quite what we’d hoped as thick sea fog blanketed the island and driving mist promised a soggy walk around the coast.
After breakfast, the chefs, Bruce and Dean, assisted expeditioners to assemble their packed lunches and by 1000 all passengers going ashore had been landed at the convenient gap in the rock platform west of the beach. We all walked in single file past the massive bachelor male sea lions guarding their territories in anticipation of the arrival of the females coming ashore to pup in about 7 days and climbed up to the historic boatshed erected in 1888 by the crew of the NZ government vessel “Stella”. Life jackets and gumboots were stored there in bins from the ship and we then made our way across the sward past the restored Stella Hut (built in 1880) to the boardwalk crossing Enderby Island to the northern cliffs. The boardwalk snakes its way through the wind-sculpted Rata forest where we saw Red-fronted Parakeets (“Kakariki”) and out into the open where we walked among wind-shorn Rata bushes with crimson new growth and aromatic Cassinia bushes to the top of the island (elevation about 30-35m asl). At that point, those who wished to continue the walk eastward around the island set off with some of the expedition team, while those content to botanise and spend more time in the Sandy Bay area were free to return to Sandy bay and the Sea Lions under the watchful eye of Arthur.
As time was limited the walkers set a fast pace and despite the awful conditions, managed to see Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses soaring through the murk, Red-billed Gulls, Auckland Island Shags, Skuas, Black-backed Gulls, Giant Petrels, Red Polls, Pipits, Red-crowned Parakeets , Flightless Teal and Yellow Eyed Penguins. The walkers returned to Sandy Bay between 1430 and 1500. There was little activity among Sea Lions on the beach where only 4 females and one stillborn pup were present.
Everyone was back on board the ship by 1645 when the anchor was lifted and we left Sandy Bay. Captain Dimitry ran a course south in the lee of Auckland Island in oily, foggy calm, so we could dine in relative comfort. At 2130 we cleared the lee of Auckland and Adams Islands and rolled our way across the westerly swells south west to Macquarie Island, 360 nautical miles (and 1.5 days) away.
Yellow Eyed Penguins. Photo credit: L.McKenzie
Day 5: 7 December 2013
At Sea enroute to Macquarie Island
Throughout the night and in the early morning, despite the 20kt southerly wind and a 2m swell on the port quarter, we maintained a brisk speed of 11-11.5kts en route to Macquarie Island. As the Southern Ocean would have it, by 1000 our speed was reduced to 9kts with rising sea and wind. A few albatrosses and prions followed the ship but the hardy birders on deck reported nothing unusual.
In the late morning Samuel gave a superb lecture on penguins, demonstrating once again his profound knowledge of his subject and his ability as an excellent photographer. Lunch was a perfect lasagne produced by Bruce and Dean under tricky conditions in the galley where the ship’s roll caused anything unsecured to levitate and fly about the stove, ovens and benches.
Just after 1415 Duade spotted 2 sperm whales at 53°10’S 161° 50’E. Fifteen minutes later, Martin gave a repeat of his lecture on Hooker’s Sea Lions for the benefit of those who missed it the first time around. The lecture was well attended, despite the roll, probably because of group’s recent experience of these animals on Enderby Island. By and large, this was a day when people either stayed on their bunks or in the Bar/Library reading, playing cards, editing photographs or just socializing. However, as might be expected, a small coterie of hardy birders made it out on deck looking for those ‘life list’ sightings or the one remaining species they haven’t seen.
Our speed had been reduced to 9kts and once again the chefs gave us a hard choice, Blue Cod fillets or Short Ribs. When conditions are difficult for the chefs the staff usually help out in the galley. Tonight Martin was the fish cook.
2130 Our speed had risen to 10.8-11.2kts and we had a little over 50nm to run to Macquarie Island with an ETA around 2am.
Day 6: 8 December 2013
Macquarie Island - ANARE Station at Buckles Bay and Sandy Bay
Soon after 0200 we dropped anchor in Buckles Bay, Macquarie Island. The motion ceased and all aboard dropped into a deep and restful sleep in preparation for a busy day ahead. After the miserable conditions at Enderby Island and on the way to Macquarie Island, one could be forgiven for thinking the weather was not going to improve much. How wrong you can be. The morning was sunny and clear and in the lee of the island the westerly wind was hardly apparent. A pod of Orca patrolled the water just off the beach followed by hopeful Giant Petrels and Skuas.
After Nathan’s comprehensive introduction to Macquarie Island we all prepared for a much anticipated landing. Martin and Arthur went ashore first with Nathan to act as boat ‘grabbers’ at the landing and by 1000 all passengers were ashore enjoying close encounters with King, Gentoo and Royal penguins, the predominantly white Southern Giant Petrels and Elephant Seal weaners about 2 months old. Our party was split into groups, each accompanied by one of the efficient TASPAWS (Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service) rangers. One group climbed to the lookout platform from where you get a panoramic view of Buckles Bay on the eastern side, Hassleborough Bay on the west, and along The Neck to the Base Station where most of the inhabitants of Macquarie Island do their work. Another group was down on the beach photographing. We made our way along Hassleborough Bay beach to the balloon shed where the meteorologist explained the workings of a hydrogen filled, high-altitude met balloon and the data collecting package it carries. Finally we stopped at the Base mess hall where the hospitality and quality of the scones is legendary (for all you bakers, lemonade is the secret raising agent) and the tea and coffee come just at the right time. Passports were stamped with the Macquarie Island ‘visa’ by the ‘postmaster’. For one of our number this visit to the Macquarie Base had special significance. Graham Lodwick was a physicist here 50 years ago to the day and found the group photo on the wall to verify it. Back at the landing, we farewelled our Macquarie wildlife Ranger escorts and boarded the Zodiacs, which made a brief run past the Rockhopper Penguin rookery on the way back to the ship for lunch.
At 1530 the weather was holding but the accumulation of high cirrus and other clouds suggested a northerly change was on its way. Captain Dimitry lifted the anchor in Buckles Bay and steamed south along the coast to Sandy Bay where all were landed for a three hour walkabout among the Royal and King Penguins and the Elephant Seals. Here all the animals and birds are fearless and inquisitive. Penguins would nibble at boots and clothing, while Elephant Seals were accepting and playful. After first investigating Dr Sam, who was lying prone on the beach, an Elephant Seal pup licked his face, then crawled up onto his back and went to sleep! Sam had to record this or nobody back in Lyttelton would believe him. He passed his camera to Martin who took the shot, handed the camera back and walked away laughing, leaving Sam to work out how to get out from beneath the affectionate, and fairly hefty youngster.
After 3 hours ashore, our group and rangers were shuttled back to the Spirit of Enderby which, by this time, was rising and falling 1.0m – 1.25m on the increasing swells. Transfers from Zodiacs to the gangway were tricky but everyone managed to board safely, thanks to some timely ‘strong arming’ by the Bosun Yuri and one of the Russian crew. We steamed back to Buckles Bay in an increasing northerly wind and swell to drop the rangers at the Base. Local safety rules require that we have two Zodiacs in the water at any one time, and perhaps that is just as well. Nearing the landing, we noticed a big (8-9m) male Orca with an exceptionally large dorsal fin, patrolling the kelp edge close to the beach. He was on the lookout for a tasty young Elephant Seal yearling. We waited until he had cleared the area, then quickly dropped the rangers at the beach and made our way back to the ship. The Zodiacs were craned aboard and lashed down at the end of a great day ashore. It is a rare occasion indeed when you can get excellent weather on Macquarie Island which allows excursions at both Buckles Bay and Sandy Bay in one day. Bruce and Dean produced yet another superb dinner and the Captain steered us slowly southward in the lee of the island towards Lusitania Bay, the site of a huge King Penguin rookery.
Sandy Bay, Macquarie Island. Photo credit: S.Blanc
Day 7: 9 December 2013
Macquarie Island - Attempt at Lusitania Bay and enroute to Campbell Island
Lusitania Bay, the site of Joseph Hatch’s infamous (failed) 1899 penguin oiling venture, was hidden from view by sea fog driven by a stiff northerly wind. Given our tight schedule, there was no point in hanging about so the Captain set a course for Campbell Island. The wind on our beam and the westerly swells on the port quarter promised a rolly trip. Breakfast was marked by human cannonballs with plates of food lurching about the restaurant. Fortunately nobody was hurt.
In the galley where Bruce was preparing lunch it was like a war zone, with the air punctuated by bangs and curses. Bruce was showered with spices and black pepper corns which rolled about the deck making walking interesting. Dean made repeated trips to the hold for lunch ingredients emerging with terse comments such as, “it’s carnage down there mate”. But, as usual, Bruce and Dean put out an excellent lunch for those passengers who were brave enough to come to the dining room. The food would never have made it onto the tables without the athleticism and extraordinary balancing skills of Natalia, the Chief Stewardess and Zoya her assistant. Despite the conditions, these two never dropped a plate, were always cheerful and somehow always knew where vertical was.
In the afternoon a visitor to the galley would have seen Dr Sam, his Hobbit feet dusted white with flour, sitting watching the bread mixer as it prepared the dough for the naan bread to accompany the curry at dinnertime. The clingfilm-covered dough was left to prove in a large roasting pan in the warmth of the galley. As the afternoon wore on the dough rose and rose and showed signs of escaping from under or, exploding from its clingfilm bonds. It was rapidly punched down and Sam and Martin spent the rest of the afternoon rolling the naan bread which Sam cooked for the evening meal.
Day 8: 10 December 2013
Enroute to Campbell Island
At sea en route for Campbell Island. Course 075°, wind 040°, 20 - 30 kts. Swells 3m. Rough. In the words of the Chief Mate Evgenii (Zhenia), “Is very good weather for this place”. Nathan decided there would be two lectures in the morning, by Samuel and Martin respectively. In the afternoon, Agnès opened her ‘Sea shop’ and trade was brisk as usual. Later, Nathan gave his introduction to Campbell Island. He then asked for a show of hands of all those interested in walking across the island to Northwest Bay and back. The remainder elected to walk to Col Lyall.
After a very rough, rolly and sleepless night (the ship was rolling up to 30° each way) Campbell Island appeared through the murk at about 1830. About 30 minutes later we entered the calm of Perserverance Harbour. The air was cold and rain showers came scudding down the harbour from the northwest. We passed Davis Point on the northern side of the harbour entrance and Martin made repeated counts of the Sea Lions hauled out at what is the largest rookery on Campbell Island.
Davis Point rookery: Males 42 (incl 3 harem bulls); Females 30, Pups 1
About ½ mile further into the harbour, on the south side, is the euphemistically named Paradise Point where Sea Lions have bred in the past. Because of the nature of the terrain here – a 25-30° peat and tussock slope dropping to a 2.5m cliff with rain pools at the waters edge – pup mortalities have been very high in past seasons.
Paradise Point rookery: Males 3-4; Females 1. Pups 0
At about 1930 we dropped anchor off the meteorological station (Beeman Base).
At Sea. Photo credit: S.Blanc
Day 9: 11 December 2013
Campbell Island
After breakfast Nathan and the Northwest Bay walkers were dropped ashore at 0930 to begin their trek across the island. The weather looked alright at this time but we knew it could change quickly. One hour later, Samuel and Martin began landing passengers at the base before setting off for Col Lyall. The wind was gusting strongly and the rain began slashing down driven by the strong northwest wind. Agnès, Samuel and Arthur led off with the main group while Dr Sam and Martin helped Joan along the boardwalk. Joan made steady progress, stopping frequently to admire the plants (she trained as a botanist) and the views, which she said were “so much better than looking at my feet all day”. The sleety rain, low cloud and strong, gusty wind made for a cold, wet walk. As the first Zodiac back to the ship was at 1300, people started down soon after reaching the Col Lyall saddle. Although there were a few albatrosses sitting in the shelter of tussocks or on nests in the vicinity of the saddle no displays had taken place. Sam, Joan and Martin had a late lunch in the shelter of the huge tussocks as albatrosses ghosted out of the murk, wings whooshing in the wind barely 4-5m above ground. Fifteen minutes later the cloud and mist lifted a little and a full changeover display occurred – just what Joan and Michelle had wanted to see. We set off back down the boardwalk for the base and 2 ½ hours later Samuel came and picked us up. Joan, complete with sticks, was craned aboard in the Zodiac, ending a very creditable day for this remarkable 84 year old ex-Himalayan climber. The Northwest Bay walkers had returned after a tough but rewarding walk with stunning views when the weather permitted. Notable observations today were Campbell Island Teal, Hooker’s Sea Lions and young Elephant Seals around the landing, Snipe up the boardwalk and of course, Southern Royal Albatrosses. Along the boardwalk the prickly shield fern Polystichum vestitum and the water fern Histiopteris incisa were common, mosses are everywhere and spectacular lichens cling to the trunks of the grass trees Dracophyllum longifolium and D.scoparium.
Up around Col Lyall, three species of the megaherb daisies Pleurophyllum were common as were the two large relatives of carrots Anisotome latifolia and A.antipoda. The iconic Subantarctic yellow flowering lily Bulbinella rossi, the gentian Gentiana antarctica is endemic to Campbell Island as is the beautiful blue flowered hebe H.benthamii found next to the boardwalk.
The animated chatter over dinner was the best indication of a good day’s activities.
Southern Royal Albatross, Campbell Island. Photo credit: A.Breniere
Day 10: 12 December 2013
Campbell Island
Three activities were planned for the morning before our departure at about 1230:
Mt Honey walk, Zodiac cruise, a return to the Mt Lyall boardwalk for those who missed out yesterday.
At 0530, the 13 Mt Honey (569m) climbers, accompanied by Samuel and Dr Sam were dropped at their departure point at the eastern end of Garden Cove. At about 0620 an amazing phenomenon occurred in Perseverance Harbour, a blinding sunrise in a largely clear sky! At 0840 Nathan briefed everybody opting for the Zodiac cruise and Col Lyall.
At 1030 the cruise and Col Lyall groups boarded the Zodiacs and were away. The walkers were landed at Beeman Base and the Zodiac cruisers with Agnès, Nathan and Martin set off around the head of Perserverance Harbour visiting Tucker Cove and the farm site, the ‘loneliest tree in the world’ at Camp Cove, and Garden Cove. As usual the wind got up and blew strongly around Beeman Hill with great willwaws ripping towers of spray off the sea and raising an ugly chop – just when the Zodiac drivers had to land their passengers back on the ship. Martin collected the Col Lyall walkers while Agnès and Nathan brought Samuel, Dr Sam and the Mt Honey climbers back aboard without incident.
Captain Dimitry lifted the anchor at about 1230 and we sailed up the east coast of Campbell Island so all aboard could have lunch in relative comfort before setting our course for the Snares Islands, about 30 hrs steam away.
View from Mount Honey, Campbell Island. Photo credit: S.Blanc
Day 11: 13 December 2013
Enroute to Snares Islands
Both the lectures and Nathan’s briefing re disembarkation procedure were cancelled due to the rough conditions encountered as we push into a strong northerly wind and a beam sea. Nevertheless, we were making a good 11.3kts and our ETA at the Snares was 1530.
0830 Position: 49°07’S 167° 11’E. 1 fin whale crossed the bow from starboard to port.
At 1530 we hove to in South Bay. A heavy swell was running with a wind chop over the top. Two Zodiacs were dropped, with Nathan and Sam in one, Samuel and Martin in the other. The boats proceeded out through the passage between the islands on the eastern side of the bay heading up the coast for the biological station where four ornithologists, who have been working on the islands for 14 days, were picked up for return to New Zealand.
In the Bar/Library before dinner Nathan gave his disembarkation briefing. He was followed by Samuel who presented a superb chronological slide show of the trip he and Agnès had prepared. This was made available free to any passengers either on a memory stick or DVD.
This evening, under very trying conditions, Bruce and Dean excelled themselves in the galley preparing a special end of cruise buffet of roast lamb, ham, prawns, mussels, salmon, salads, potatoes, kumara and vegetables. For dessert there was a selection of crème caramel, meringue baskets with mascarpone, raspberries and cream. It was the perfect fare to complement a similar trip.
Photo credit: A.Breniere
Day 12: 14 December 2013
Port of Bluff
At 0630 on a sunny Bluff morning we were slowly making our way to the pilot station.
The pilot boarded at 0700 and 30 minutes later the Spirit of Enderby was secured alongside. It was sad to see all the corridors lined with baggage as we prepared to disembark. Customs and Immigration and biosecurity officers come aboard and, in no time we were cleared for landing. A short time later we had boarded the bus for the airport or town centre taking with us new memories, new friendships and memory cards stuffed with unforgettable images. Our adventure was at an end.
