1357: Melanesia Discoverer 12 Oct 2013

 

Day One: Saturday 12 October 2013

Madang

The expedition team and passengers for the Spirit of Enderby arrived in Madang via Port Moresby over two days and met to share their experiences of reaching this remote part of the world over dinner at the Madang Resort. Early on 12 October our adventure began in earnest. The bird watchers left the resort at 5am in search of PNG’s iconic Birds of Paradise. Their expedition included walking across the slippery forest floor in the dark, after waking the villagers who were to guide them. Their excursion took in a demonstration from the villagers on the correct way to chew betel nuts for the best effect.

The rest of the group opted for a tour around Madang that included a cultural performance at Hobe village. The elders spoke of their traditions and the villagers performed a dance wearing crimson and gold clothing dyed using ancient techniques, and head-dresses adorned with feathers from Birds of Paradise. The dancers were accompanied by drummers as young as four who had already mastered the many complex and compelling rhythms. The butterflies, orchids and birdlife added to the vibrancy and grace of the dancers. The group also visited a lighthouse that had been erected in commemoration of the PNG Coast Watch whose efforts assisted the allies during WW2. Later the group visited the Madang Museum which houses a collection of artefacts and local crafts. What struck many of us on this first day was the beauty and friendliness of the children in particular.

Being a Saturday, the Madang market was very busy with many shoppers and traders, many of whom had travelled long distances to be there, even from other islands. The market sells a huge variety of fruits and vegetables as well as brightly coloured clothing, woven baskets and shopping bags cleverly designed from recycled packaging. It’s a good place to pick up locally made souvenirs.

Everyone gathered on the Spirit of Enderby at 3pm when the expedition team introduced themselves and it became clear that we are in safe and expert hands. The team is truly talented and skilled and it will be a pleasure to spend the next two weeks with them. We set sail just after 4pm and after the pilot departed we had lifeboat drill. This was a first for many of us and we were amazed and amused by the sardine-like conditions in the lifeboats. There was no choice but to cosy up close to our fellow travelers, so it was a good icebreaker. Our expedition leader, Aaron Russ, also provided advice and instructions on the best way to get in and out of a Zodiac.

Later we all met in the bar/library for pre-dinner drinks and nibbles, another good opportunity to talk to staff and fellow travellers. The ship’s dining room was transformed for the evening meal and we were treated to a delicious three-course meal served to us by our charming Russian waitresses. It’s an early start tomorrow as we begin our exploration of the Sepik River.

Day Two: Sunday 13 October 2013

Sepik River

The second day of the expedition was devoted to exploring the Sepik River, the largest in PNG. It was our first Zodiac outing on Heritage Expedition’s inaugural Melanesia Discoverer. A large sand bar at the river mouth made us decide to enter the system through a tributary river where we visited the settlement of Watam. Alex, our Cultural Adviser and Expedition Leader, Aaron had visited the village elders earlier in the morning to ensure our visit could go ahead. Nothing could have prepared us for the wonderful welcome we received. As we approached the village, children ran and waved to us from the shore. A boat full of dancers, drummers and singers – all in ceremonial dress – made its way towards our fleet of Zodiacs and led us towards the village. One of the villagers named Donnie, whose English was perfect, explained that we were to wait on the shore until the performers led us to a surprise. This turned out to be the most magnificent undulating dragon inhabited by several male dancers and led by a group of village elders. We followed the dragon into the village and continued to watch the spectacle especially performed for us. As it was a Sunday, the villagers would normally be attending church, but church today had been postponed in honour of our visit.

Aaron explained later that the dragon is an unusual symbol in PNG culture. In Watam mythology the dragon is the off-spring of a dolphin and a snake, symbolising the peoples' unique place between the forest, river and sea. Our welcome was very warm and moving, and some of us were even adopted by groups of beautiful, beguiling children who took our hands and looked after us. There was an opportunity to buy artefacts from the village craftspeople. Although the people live a traditional life it was good to be able support them in this way so they can buy essentials such as fuel for the boats they use to go to and from market. A number of us joined Heritage’s bird expert, Adam Walleyn, on a walk around the shore where we were accompanied by an ever-increasing group of Watam’s solicitous children.

The return to our mother ship for lunch was unexpectedly challenging due a change in the sea conditions which made the going fairly choppy. It felt rather like being on the back of a very old truck moving along a deeply rutted road – exhilarating and a lot of fun – but our bottoms may never recover. After lunch many of us enjoyed a siesta in preparation for our next foray into the Sepik to look for wildlife. Among the birds we spotted were a Hornbill, the magnificent White-bellied Sea Eagle and a Brahminy Kite. We were also invited to see some small crocodiles which had been captured by a local who had them in a pen to be fattened for sale. We continued up the river by Zodiac making regular diversions into small pockets of mangroves surrounded by forest.

We returned to the ship as the sun was setting. A large volcano on the horizon was sending out a long plume of smoke across a mauve sky. It was a truly sublime sight and the perfect end to a wonderful day as we enjoyed the increasingly warm atmosphere generated as people get to know each other.

Day Three: Monday 14 October 2013

Sepik River, enroute to Manus Island

The morning was spent exploring the Sepik River proper after the ship was able to lay anchor near the river mouth. The bird watchers set off before dawn and the Zodiacs departed at 6.30am with the promise of a second breakfast on our return. The highlights for the bird watchers were a wide variety of pigeons and parrots, including the Fig Parrot. Other species spotted included the Dwarf Fruit Dove, the Rufus-bellied Kookaburra, the Whiskered Tern and the White-bellied Sea Eagle.

The main group of Zodiacs entered a narrow channel near Kopar Village where we stopped to collect our river guides. After our tour it was great to see the villagers go about their normal day to day tasks and make the most of another opportunity to purchase some beautifully carved artefacts. One of the villagers proudly showed off his tamed sea eagle, a magnificent bird whose wing span can reach up to two metres.

The ship departed around 10.30am for Manus Island. During this voyage there was time to rest and research in the ship’s well-stocked library. Some of the passengers on deck spotted flying fish. Adam Walleyn delivered a fascinating lecture on the Cetaceans (dolphins and whales) of Melanesia during which the difference between whales and dolphins was revealed. Adam told us that one of the best spots to see these marine mammals is the Bougainville Trench, which drops to a staggering 8,000m. Like much of the wildlife here, the best time for spotting is at the beginning and end of the day. Adam’s lecture provided definitions and images of the cetaceans we are most likely to see during the voyage.

Later in the day Aaron gave a snorkelling briefing in preparation for tomorrow where we expect to be able to snorkel around Bipi Island near Manus. To our knowledge, the Spirit of Enderby will be the first expedition vessel to visit Bipi, where the islanders will welcome us with a ‘sing-sing’.

All the snorkelling equipment is available on the ship including flotation devices for the novices. It will be a relaxed experience and we expect to spend at least an hour enjoying water temperatures of 28 degrees. As these are largely uncharted waters, the Captain has chosen to approach Bipi in the daylight. Aaron said that as no guide books have been written on snorkelling in this part of the world, this really is wilderness snorkelling and he will be setting out very early tomorrow to identify a good spot for us. Day Three ended with another delicious meal conjured up by Bruce and the galley staff, starting with fresh crab bisque.

Day Four:  Tuesday 15 October 2013
Bipi Island, Manus Island

In the early morning the Spirit of Enderby laid anchor just off Bipi Island where we were greeted by a flotilla of small decorated dug-outs and banana boats carrying dancers and drummers. Bipi, just off Manus Island and is seldom visited by outsiders. In fact ours was the first tourist ship ever to have visited. We boarded the Zodiacs and made our way towards the island where we were treated to a wonderful welcome. The people were incredibly warm and friendly and gave us a spectacular dancing and singing performance. The island's councillor provided us with a background to his people’s culture and explained the challenges of being so isolated. After the welcoming ceremony we wandered through the village and had plenty of time to talk to the locals who generously shared their knowledge and experience of life on Bipi. We were also able to visit the school and Church. This was a truly authentic cultural experience with the people living in the northern-most tip of Papua New Guinea.

The kayaks had their first outing today and were a source of great amusement to the children on Bipi who were fascinated by these strange fluoro dug-outs. It took some coaxing to get them out of the kayaks when it was time to leave.

Kayaking Guide Judd Hill reports: “Morning at Bipi Island. No wind and sunny. Some large swell on the northern end of the reef. We circumnavigated Bipi Island clockwise both inside and outside reef. The water was very clear and some nice coral. Many kids climbed on the kayaks hitching a ride. Had a stop at the start to see sing-sing and a stop at the end for a snorkel. 5 kayakers, 10.6km”

After returning to the ship we prepared to snorkel from a site Aaron had identified earlier in the morning. After an hour exploring the coral reef in the bath warm waters we returned to the ship for lunch. Later in the afternoon Mark Ziembicki, a conservation biologist with Heritage Expeditions, gave us an introduction to the natural and cultural history of Melanesia. Mark reminded us that the region we are exploring is an exciting place for biologists to explore. His talk focused on the extraordinary diversity in the region and we are looking forward to his next lecture on conservation ecology in Papua New Guinea. After our Bipi experience we set sail for Mussau Island far to the north of New Ireland and just 90 miles south of the equator. As there are no soundings in the area around Mussau, the Captain will approach cautiously and take care to find a suitable place to anchor.

Day Five: Wednesday 16 October 2013
Bismark Archipelago

We awoke in unchartered waters off the Bismarck Archipelago where soundings have not previously been taken. For this reason the Captain decided that with a depth of 300m the ship would not lay anchor so we drifted throughout the day. This was to be the furthest point north we would sail during the expedition.

Our first excursion of the day was by Zodiac to a tiny island just off Mussau. Mussau is a matrilineal society and we were graciously invited onto the beach by the island’s ‘mother’, Margaret. We were the first tourists to visit this particular island and were presented with leis upon arrival. A small choir (accompanied by an electric organ and bass guitarist!) sang songs in English about the island’s beauty. One of the local men explained how Mussau culture has been transformed by Seventh Day Adventism and few of the island’s pre-Christian beliefs remain. He did however show us one of the stones that had been revered in the past as a sacred talisman. The welcome to Mussau had none of the exuberance of our experience at Bipi yesterday, but it was gentle and charming in its own way.

Our Mussau stop was another opportunity for kayaking in perfect conditions. The usual guidebook clichés of clear sparkling turquoise waters cannot do justice to the colours of the sea in this region. It was only a short hop in the Zodiacs for the rest of us to land on the main Mussau Island where we set out on a well marked track to see the rainforest from higher up. In terms of temperature, if you imagine a furnace in a greenhouse and then add a few degrees you will have a good appreciation of the conditions – we were very close to the equator after all! Relief from the heat came in the form of a swimming hole below a waterfall in which we all cooled off. There were no crocodiles but there were some rather large eels. One of the local kids who had tagged along with us demonstrated how to chase them away by slapping the water.

Kayaking Guide report: “Morning at Mussau Island south coast. Flat calm and sunny conditions. We paddled from ship to a small island for a welcome, then headed NW to a larger island and paddled up its west coast. Some beautiful islets off the northern end and an awesome lagoon on the western side. We had a brief stop on another small island. Had an interesting local (drunk) guy following in a canoe. Eight turtles seen in the water. Great paddle. 5 kayakers, 13.6km. Afternoon at Mussau Island (same anchorage). Conditions still calm but overcast sky with some squalls coming through. We paddled to a small island for a snorkel then across to Eloaua Island to have a look at the village there. Very nice village and people. 4 Kayakers, 10.2km”

We were lucky to have as a fellow passenger Moshe Agami who is a botanist and expert on tropical flora. Moshe, a former Director of the Tel Aviv Botanical Gardens, identified many of the unique plants we encountered on our walk. After lunch there was time for some more snorkelling when we saw some giant clams (measuring around 60cm in diameter), large numbers of fish, spectacularly shaped corals and a type of reef shark called a Tasselled Wobbegong. The kayakers meanwhile had circumnavigated the smaller island accompanied by a group of locals in dugouts. They had visited a beautiful crescent-shaped bay full of fish where they also saw turtles and then visited a pretty village with houses built on stilts above the water. Meanwhile those less inclined to water sports enjoyed a relaxing afternoon on a pristine white-sand beach.

Bird watchers who were marking off their Heritage Expeditions species lists were today able to tick off the Blue-faced Parrotfinch, the endemic Mussau Monarch (a “lifer” for Heritage’s bird expert, Adam), the large white Collard Kingfisher and the heavily hunted and elusive Yellow-Bibbed Fruit Dove. The birders also saw the large butterflies known as Bird-winged Swallow Tails. We departed in the late afternoon for Kavieng, the capital New Ireland.

Day 6: Thursday 17 October
Kavieng

We anchored in Kavieng Harbour around 7am and after breakfast and delayed customs clearance we travelled by Zodiac and kayak to the Nusa Island Retreat, a resort on the tiny island of Nusa. In the shade of the retreat’s courtyard we were treated to a sing-sing, beginning with a flotilla of singers, followed by several performing groups including five dancers in grotesque masks. (We were later to learn more about the meaning of the masks and the animal-like movements of the dancers.) The locals seemed to enjoy the performance as much as we did and a big crowd turned out. The costumes for each performance grew ever more spectacular and in the last one the dancers wore springy headdresses that on closer inspection were topped with a model of an outrigger. There was some interesting local art on sale at the retreat, including pretty jewellery, masks and other items intricately carved from wood.

From Nusa we had a few options on how to spend the rest of the morning. There was a walk to a memorial to the local people who lost their lives in WW2 on the neighbouring island of Nusalomon or free time to explore Kavieng. While it lacks the charm of the outlying islands, Kavieng is a useful place to change money and send postcards. As it has an airport, the town is an important centre in this remote part of Papua New Guinea.

In the afternoon, the snorkelers snorkelled and the swimmers swam in clear warm water from a tiny uninhabited island close to the ship. One of the group ventured into the island's vegetation and got a photo of a large bright yellow spider (yet to be formally identified!).

Many reported that the snorkelling here is the best they have experienced with great visibility and benign currents. Among the myriad of fish they saw in the reefs were several big fat Groper, Puffer Fish, Blue Starfish and Butterfly Cod or Lionfish. They commented that the conditions are getting even better as the trip progresses. Bird watchers in the meantime, who had had a very early start at 3.15am in the midst of a lightning storm, reported a very successful day. Their day’s highlights included the Paradise Drongo; the White-backed Woodswallow; Forbes’s and Huntstein’s Mannikins; the Bismarck White-eye; and the undescribed Bismarck Flyrobin. After dinner we listened to a lecture from botanist, Moshe Agami, on why the plant-life in the tropics is so unique.

Kayaking Guide Report: “Morning at Kavieng. Conditions were sunny with 1.5m swell and 5 knots of wind. We paddled to Nusa Resort for a sing sing then through the channel between Nusa and Nusalik Islands, over the reef and around the west and north sides of Nusa Island. Returned to ship via town side of harbour. Nice blowhole on NW side of Nusa Island. 5 kayakers, 9.8km”

Day 7: Friday 18 October 2013
Rabaul, New Britain

Our itinerary took us today to Rabaul in New Britain. We landed by Zodiac at Kokopo, the new capital after the town of Rabaul was virtually destroyed after Tavurur erupted in 1994. We were collected by two vans, which took us for a closer look at the volcanoes and to visit relics of the Japanese occupation of that part of the Pacific. We prepared for a hot drive when our guide Robert warned us the air-conditioning was “em buggid up” – pidgin for faulty.

This was the most developed of the places we had visited. The roads were on the whole good, as was much of the housing. We passed the first hospital and high schools we have seen since setting off. On the way to the former Japanese base we saw several tunnels and other infrastructure that the Japanese built using the local people as forced labour. Here we met a local landowner, an elderly gentleman called George Tamon. He showed us that his toe had been shot off by a Japanese soldier during the occupation. He would only have been about 10 at the time.

From there we drove to the Rabaul Volcanological Observatory for a perfect view of the caldera and surrounding volcanoes, one of which was smoking. The harbour was the scene of an air and sea battle between Japanese and Australian forces in which the Japanese were defeated. From there we visited the bunker where Yamamoto, the commander behind the bombing of Pearl Harbour, hid after this defeat. His plane was later shot down in Honiara as he was trying to escape. The bunker and a museum next door are in the part of old Rabaul destroyed by the eruption and a lot of effort has gone into restoring the site. On the way back we visited an enormous tunnel where the Japanese hid five large barges which are there to this day. In an ironic twist, the tunnels are now occupied by thousands of swifts who use them as nesting sites.

Along with other interesting vegetation, botanist Moshe pointed out a type of tropical mimosa (known to Australians as ‘sensitive weed’) that has the extraordinary ability to turn its leaves into a stalk when brushed against to deter hungry herbivores.

After lunch (yes this all happened before lunch!), the ship sailed a short distance towards Duke of York Island. The kayakers circumnavigated the island while two groups of snorkelers explored the reefs. Conditions were beautiful and the snorkelers reported seeing the Crown of Thorns starfish and Spider Crayfish as well as a myriad of stunning tropical fish. The highlight for bird watchers today was seeing the Beach Stone Curlew. At the end of the day, we watched the sun set behind the three main volcanoes of Rabaul. The bright orange sky filtered through grey plumes of smoke was an irresistible photo opportunity. Later in the evening Adam delivered a lecture on how to identify fish of the coral reef.

Kayaking Guide Report: “Afternoon at Duke of York Islands. 10 knots of wind with overcast and sunny skies. Some wind chop. We paddled to the northern shore of Ulu Island and followed the coastline east as far as Ruruan Island (which we circumnavigated) and then returned to shore the same route. Very nice coastline and beaches. One stop for a snorkel on the north coast of Ulu Island. Returned to ship in the dark. 4 kayakers, 10.1km”

 

Day 8 – Saturday 19 October 2013
Nissan, Bougainville

Today we visited the island of Nissan, part of the Autonomous Region of Bougainville with a population of 7,000. We were met on the beach by elders who sprinkled us with water in a ceremony similar to that at Bipi. The sprinkling of water is a custom that symbolises removing the sea sprits from a person before coming onto the land. We were then presented with a pendant of fragrant herbs and leaves before setting off on a walk. Nissan is the first true atoll we have visited on the expedition and has an unusually deep 60m lagoon. Our guides, George and Henry, were mines of information and very patiently and graciously answered our many questions about life on Nissan, as well as its history and traditions. We walked through the school grounds and on to the medical centre, passing the longest airstrip in the Southern Hemisphere (3000m) constructed by Kiwis in WW2 for the US air force, although it is no longer in use. Nissan was bombed during the war and there are still several unexploded bombs on the island which cannot be defused because their mechanisms have rusted away. We were told that the local children collect bullets to use as sinkers when they go fishing!

One of the Australian passengers, John Rennie, had an unexpected reunion with several old colleagues from their days working together in the Panguna Copper Mine in Arawa. Although the island has a clinic we were told that a doctor visits only quarterly and while there are some community health workers, there are no formally trained nurses. In a medical emergency patients are taken to Buka, which is seven hours away by boat. The islanders hope that there will be a flying doctor or helicopter service one day. They have already successfully lobbied central government for free education and boarding facilities for children attending Nissan’s junior high school.

The kayakers paddled over 30km today along the lagoon’s beautiful coastline with hanging coral cliffs and trees providing shade and shelter. They ventured into an estuary at one point, but as it looked suspiciously like crocodile territory, they decided to reverse. They found a particularly lovely beach for lunch where they were joined by a family who live on the beach.

Kayaking Guide Report: “Nissan Island. Sunny skies and a light breeze greeted us in the morning and stayed that way all day. We paddled from the ship adrift through the middle channel into the lagoon of the atoll. Had a stop at the high school on the eastern side then followed the inner coastline to the south. Had a beautiful lunch with some locals and paddled back outside the atoll through South Channel and had a snorkel stop. Awesome paddle and day on the water. 4 kayakers, 30.2km”

The bird watchers had another successful day, reporting that their walk through a beautiful high canopied forest was the best of the trip so far. The bird list included: the Melanesian Megapode; the seldom seen Atoll Starling; the Louisade White-eye; the Island Monarch; and lots of Island Imperial Pigeons. They also saw one Nicoban Pigeon fly by and hoped to see more, but as they are a food source for the islanders they are difficult to find. Other species seen today were the Metallic Starling, the Wedge-tailed Shearwater and the Red-footed Booby.

In the afternoon, those not birding or kayaking had the option of snorkelling or spending time on the beach. The swimmers were joined by a large group of children who were as interested in us as we were of them. Snorkelers reported that while it was a challenging site it was well worth the effort. They were able to see into the lagoon’s deep ravines and encountered several types of coral they had not seen before. During the evening Sue gave a talk about travelling through Melanesia on her yacht.

Day 9: Sunday 20 October 2013
Arawa, Bougainville, PNG

We had an early wakeup call on this our last morning in Papua New Guinea to prepare for landing at Arawa, situated about two thirds down the east coast of Bougainville. The morning could hardly have been more beautiful as we sailed towards Arawa at day break. The full moon was still shining on the ocean and the colour of the sky was an almost indescribable pink/mauve blending into duck-egg blue. The terrain in this area is mountainous and covered in lush tropical forest. Bagani, Bougainville’s active volcano, was clearly visible and emitting clouds of steam, smoke and ash. We were accompanied by two pods of dolphins as we approached.

After landing we met with our drivers and guides and began the steep windy climb to the abandoned Panguna mine, which was the world’s largest copper mine until it was abandoned in 1991. The mine was opened by Rio Tinto trading as Bougainville Copper Limited in 1972. It closed in 1989 due to a conflict that escalated into a bitter civil war that was to last 10 years and cost the lives of thousands of people. During this time the PNG government blockaded Bougainville and the people there did not have contact with the outside world until 1994. Those events have been fictionalised in Mr Pip, a novel by Lloyd Jones, and a film adaptation was released recently. The people still living near the mine make a small living panning for gold to buy staples since the mining operation contaminated their traditional food sources. Many of us felt privileged to be allowed to visit the site and to hear first hand from our drivers and guides the devastating effect of the mine and ensuing war. On our way back we stopped for a short walk into the forest where we marvelled at the plant life and enormous butterflies. We collected the bird watchers whose highlights today included: the Imperial Pigeon; a family of Damsel-flies; the Meyers Gosshawk; the White-winged Fantail; the Yellow-throated White-eye; the Red-capped Myzomela; the Island and Solomons Monarchs; and “bird of the day”, the Bougainville Monarch.

When we returned to Arawa, a group of singers, dancers and musicians led us towards the newly opened Mr Pip Library and performed for us there. Again, this was a great honour, especially as we are the first tourists to be welcomed for many years. The music was quite unlike any other we have heard so far. The men played huge pan flutes and percussion instruments also made of bamboo, while the women wore beautiful garlands. The performance was followed by speeches and we were then able to buy local handicrafts including intricately patterned basket ware. We returned to the ship and after a late lunch could either go kayaking, snorkelling or swimming. After circumnavigating the small nearby island of Takanupei, the kayakers joined the snorkelers who reported seeing many fish at the reef drop-off.

The day ended with another stunning meal from our very own Master Chef, Bruce. We also celebrated the 19th birthday of Sous Chef, Paul Richter. Happy birthday Paul!

Kayaking Guide Report: “Afternoon at Arawa, Bougainville Island. Short paddle due to time issues. Overcast with a light breeze and ground swell. We circumnavigated a small island to the north of Arawa clockwise and crossed the outer reef. Had one stop for a snorkel. Nice but short. 5 kayakers, 4.9km.”

 

Day 10 – Monday 21 October 2013
Choiseul, Solomon Islands

Our first stop in the Solomon Islands was near the northern tip of the island of Choiseul just 65 miles from Arawa. We began our day with a Zodiac trip up an estuarine channel through a dense forest of towering mangroves to visit a local conservation initiative. The vegetation changed the further we travelled and the bird life along the channel was prolific. The conservation area was created with help from the US-based NGO Nature Conservancy, which funds a Choiseul conservationist, Jimmy, to work with local volunteers to protect their forest and waterways. We felt privileged to be the first outsiders to walk the track they had cut leading to a waterfall that supplies the village of Poroporo with safe drinking water.

We left a party of bird watchers and nature lovers in the forest and took the Zodiacs to the village where we were met at the jetty by a group of ferocious-looking warriors. Once we disembarked they led us to a communal hall where we were formally welcomed by Chief Ezra Poqetauga. After exchanging gifts the village women treated us to a sing-sing, including a custom dance that depicts turtle hunting. Their graceful movements and beautiful harmonies could not have been in stronger contrast to the young warriors we met earlier! The village women also showed us their weaving technique, an ingenious mix of crochet, French knitting and lace making, using fibre made from tree bark. They also showed us their unusual method for making and firing cooking pots. We were told that Choiseul is one of the few places in Melanesia where this tradition has survived.

The kayakers who had reached the village first had been met with an even fiercer greeting, much to the amusement of the kids. They were also shown how to light a fire from sticks and scamper up a palm to gather coconuts. Their new-found knowledge remains theoretical however as practical application was unsuccessful.

Kayaking Guide Report: “Morning at Choisul Bay, Solomon Islands. Flat calm, hot and sunny. We paddled from the ship to Sipozae Island then crossed to Parama Island, then to the east side of Kondakanimboko Island and up a small channel to the village of Poroporo. We had a lovely stop there then returned to the ship via a channel in the outer reef and the west side of Sipozae Island. 5 kayakers, 14.6km.”

Chief Ezra gave us all freedom to explore the village. We were shown around by happy children who had the day off school in honour of our visit. While most of us were being given a tour of the village, some of the men braved the heat and took on the locals in a game of football. Our visit to Poroporo was an interesting and heart-warming experience which came to an end when we were waved off by a large group of beautiful children.

In the afternoon the snorkelers experienced excellent conditions in a reef protected by the Poroporo conservation initiative. The bird watchers also reported a successful day spotting, amongst other species, the Ducorp’s Cockatoo, the Cardinal Lorikeet, the Ultramarine Kingfisher, the White-billed Crow, the Little Kingfisher and the White-eyed Starling. The kayakers took the opportunity to travel up the channel by Zodiac later in the day and really enjoyed the magical light of the afternoon when the bird life was particularly vocal.

Day 11 – Tuesday 22 October 2013
Kolombangara

The birders were up early to get into the hills of the Imbu Rano Conservation Area in Kolombangara (near New Georgia) to make the most of their morning. The beautiful forest has huge trees and many interesting ferns and palms on its steep slopes. Underfoot the trail was spongy with a deep build up of leaf litter. Highlights today included: 200 Cardinal Lorikeets as well as brief views of the Duchess and Meek’s Lorikeets; the Kolombangara and White-capped Monarchs; and the Crimson-rumped Myzomela, all of which are endemic to the Solomon Islands. Other endemic species spotted included the Solomon’s Cockatoo, the magnificent Solomon’s Sea Eagle. The call of the Buff-headed Coucal was heard although the bird remained hidden from view. Non-endemic species included Finsch’s Pygmy Parrot, the Pale Mountain Pigeon and the Moustached Treeswift.

After landing by Zodiac in the village of Ringgi, the rest of us journeyed to the Imbu Rano Conservation Area on the back of 3-tonne trucks. We learnt that Kolombangara’s elders decided there would be no further logging from the indigenous forests from 400m above sea level, including both common and custom land. Below 400m a sustainable forestry industry of exotic timbers has been established growing mainly teak and eucalyptus.

The gateway to the reserve was set up by the Kolombangara Island Biodiversity Conservation Association (KIBCA for short). From the deck of the lodge we had an uninterrupted view of the enormous forested crater of Kolombangara (an extinct volcano after which the island is named). From there we were taken by guides on walks through the dense forest; one was a very steep descent to a stream and waterfall and the other was along a ridge to a moss-lined grotto.

In the meantime the kayakers set out on a quest to locate a Japanese fighter plane shot down in WW2. They didn’t find it but had a great time trying along with their leader, Kayakmeister Judd Hill. Later a group of snorkelers visited a reef that is being restored by a local man after a tsunami hit the island in 2007. While the reef still showed signs of damage they saw a wide variety of fish there including the bizarre Trumpet fish, a Puffer fish with (courageous) cleaner wrasse attached to it, the Nudibracht, and a Pipefish laden with eggs which are incubated by the male fish.

In the afternoon, a group set out on trucks (the preferred form of transport on Kolombangara) to the airstrip and on the way back joined in a celebration for Women’s Day. They encountered a percussion band with instruments made from drainpipes and beaten with a jandal-shaped instrument. Some of our more talented dancers joined in the fun, including the ship’s doctor, Konrad Richter, who performed a very entertaining version of the Chicken Dance. The ship anchored off Kolombangara for the night before setting off for the uninhabited island of Kerehikapa in the Arnavon Island (Santa Isabel Province).

Kayaking Guide Report: “Morning at Arnavon Islands. Conditions flat calm, sunny and hot. We paddled from the ship to Kerehikapa Island to see Hawksbill turtle station. Stopped to see the turtles hatching. Then we paddled anti-clockwise around Kerehikapa Island and stopped on a small island of the southern coast for a snorkel. 4 kayakers, 14.8km. Voyage total of 11 paddles for 145.3km.”

Day 12 – Wednesday 23 October 2013
Kerehikapa

We spent the morning of our second to last day on the expedition at the Arnavon Community Marine Conservation Area Project on Kerehikapa. The project was set up in 1995 to protect the endangered Hawksbill Turtle. This is true community-based conservation shared amongst the people of the Arnavon Islands, which comprise Katupika, Wagina and Kia, and funded by the provincial governments and Nature Conservancy. Kerehikapa is uninhabited apart from the three conservation officers who oversee the project and a handful of volunteers.

On arrival the officers gave us a rundown of their work. We were then led to nesting sites and witnessed a once-in-a-lifetime experience when Moses (midwife to the Hawksbill) burrowed into two of the nesting sites bringing dozens of tiny Hawksbills to the surface. We were very fortunate to arrive on a day when the eggs had hatched and we aided the hatchlings on their first journey by making a shallow channel to the sea. They must now be the most photographed babies in Melanesia!

While there we met Ken Lewis, a New Zealander working for VSA and Nature Conservancy. As part of his role in communications he took several photos of the event, so if you visit the Nature Conservancy website you may see a photo of some of our group. You can help with the project by donating through the website.

The birdwatchers also had an interesting time at Kerehikapa finding a Megapode nest under a large rotting tree trunk. They also heard them, and spotted an adult flying and a young Megapode perched in a tree. Other highlights included sighting the Eastern Osprey and the Pacific Reef Heron.

We returned to the ship to collect snorkelling equipment and bathing suits and went to a tiny island with a white sand beach. The snorkelers reported seeing several species of fish and coral, the rare Yellow Trumpet fish, giant clams and a black tip reef shark. Earlier the kayakers had seen two adult Hawksbills, half a dozen reef sharks and the nest of a Solomon’s Eagle with a chick.

The afternoon was spent on the ship where Mark delivered a lecture on community-based conservation in Melanesia. Later Aaron gathered us together in the lecture room where we watched a great slide show of photos taken by the expedition staff and edited by Meghan. We finished the evening with a superb buffet dinner. As Aaron said in his farewell speech, the trip showed what an incredibly diverse place Melanesia is. No two islands, villages, cultures and peoples are the same – let alone the flora and fauna – and we have all come away with a greater understanding of this amazing part of the world.