1334: Across the Top of the World 21 Aug 2013

 

"Across the Top of the World"
A Voyage Through Northeast Chukotka

 

MV Spirit of Enderby/Professor Khromov

 
Aug 21 - Day 1
Embarkation

After making our way to Anadyr from all over the world, we finally settled in on the Spirit of Enderby for the evening. An introduction from Rodney and an opportunity to meet the staff was followed by dinner, a drink in the bar, and then a bit of rest, relaxation and unpacking. Our first night on the ship, our new home for the next couple of weeks, was a calm and restful one as we looked forward to our big adventure.



 
Aug 22 - Day 2
Preobrazheniya Bay

The next morning we woke to calm seas and overcast skies. After a good breakfast some chose to explore the ship while others settled in for some bird watching from the bridge. An introductory ship briefing and a Zodiac safety briefing rounded out the activities for the morning. After a hearty lunch we participated in the all-important life boat drill and then got ready for our afternoon Zodiac excursion to explore the extensive and impressive bird cliffs near Cape Kekilin. A high diversity of seabirds take advantage of the varied terrain here, with murres and kittiwakes sharing the ledges along the towering cliff faces while unusually high numbers of Tufted and Horned Puffins take advantage of several large grass-covered boulder fields to make their burrow nests. Parakeet and Crested Auklets also nest here, and we saw vast flocks of the latter gathering as dusk approached. We made our first official landing on the Chukotka coast when we landed briefly in a lagoon near the back of the bay to stretch our legs.

Aug 23 - Day 3
Yttygran Island and Gilmilmyl Bay

We woke to blue skies and quickly mobilized for a trip to Yttygran Island to visit ‘Whale Bone Alley’. This is an important archaeological site consisting of the remains of an extensive and elaborate corridor of whale skulls and jawbones arranged along the long gravel beach. It was here that the ancient Chukchi whale hunters would butcher their catch and express their thanks to the whale spirits. Though now largely overgrown with grass, most of the many hundreds of bones are still clearly visible, with some still sticking straight up into the sky as they were originally placed. Many of us enjoyed a stroll down the beach towards some small but easily accessed bird cliffs where fantastic close-range looks at a number of species were to be had. Although these cliffs only support a population of mere hundreds of birds, the opportunity to study Tufted and Horned Puffins as well as Thick-billed Murres, Pelagic Cormorants and Kittiwakes at a leisurely pace was a real highlight, especially for those wishing to take full-frame photographs of these species at the nest.
After lunch the weather took a turn for the worse, but we still went ahead with our plan to visit Gilmilmyl Bay and explore the small river which ran down from the hills. We were joined by a number of crew members from the Spirit of Enderby armed with mushroom collecting buckets, and set off to explore. Some crisscrossed the braided channels of the river in search of birds while others headed directly towards the main attraction – the hot springs and the promise of a long relaxing soak. After a few hours of rambling (and/or soaking), we worked our way back to the Zodiacs and ‘home’ for dinner.


 
Day 4 - August 24
Cape Dezhnev

We steamed north through the evening and the dawn found us just south of Cape Dezhnev. A light swell breaking onto the narrow landing beach was countered by favourable offshore winds, and so we all loaded into the Zodiacs and headed in towards this major geographical and historical landmark. The remains of an old village as well as a more modern lighthouse stood in marked contrast to the rugged wilderness extending all around. After a few hours of exploring the cape, we headed north in hopes of visiting the village of Uelen, but a rising swell and increasing winds quickly took that option off the table. Following Rodney's oft-repeated maxim of 'remaining rigidly flexible' we changed plans as well as course and decided to head directly to Wrangel Island. There was however some consolation (particularly for the birders on the bridge) as we enjoyed the spectacular sight of tens of thousands of Short-tailed Shearwaters, Crested Auklets and other seabirds moving past the easternmost point of Chukotka, as well a large group of Humpback Whales feeding off the coast near Uelen.
 
Day 5 - August 25
At Sea

Excellent conditions allowed us to make good speed towards Wrangel Island and a day at sea gave many a chance to dry their boots, download their memory cards and enjoy some quiet time on the ship. Birding from the bridge was at times slow, at times quite rewarding, and as always, those who put in their time 'on watch' were rewarded with some great sightings. Today these included Minke and Humpback Whales, the rare and beautiful Sabine's Gull, many good looks at Short-tailed Shearwaters and other seabirds, and towards evening, lots of beautiful ice. Around mid afternoon we entered a thicker band of ice southeast of Wrangel and all eyes were out looking for Polar Bears and walrus. We enjoyed great close-range looks at no fewer than five Polar Bears, several of which barely took notice of the ship quietly drifting less than a hundred metres away. Walrus were also seen swimming among the ice. After some lectures and briefings concerning the birds, history and people of Chukotka, we headed to our cabins to prepare for our first day ashore on Wrangel Island.



Day 6 - Aug 26
Wrangel Island

We made our first landing on Wrangel Island at Rodgers Cove, the site of a former village and now a virtual ghost-town. There we wandered amongst the old buildings and houses of what was once a bustling community and dropped off our first group of overland explorers, entrusting them to the care of the Wrangel Island rangers who came to meet us. After lunch we enjoyed some relaxed birding from the bridge as we headed northeast and out of the ice. Towards evening we anchored off Komsomol Lake, a lagoon off the northern coast of the island which often attracts bears. Even from the ship we could see several on the shoreline and despite the strong wind and waves, we managed to approach and drift downwind. Two bears approached to investigate and for about half an hour we enjoyed spectacular views of them from only a few dozen metres away. This was definitely one of the best bear encounters one could hope for!


 
Day 7 -Aug 27
Wrangel Island

This morning when we awoke the ship was anchored not far from Ptichy Bazaar, a major bird colony on the island. After breakfast we piled into the Zodiacs and headed out under blue skies for a cruise along the cliffs. There we marvelled at the sheer number of birds crowding into the clefts and ledges along the sheer rock faces. There were excellent views of Puffins, Murres, Kittiwakes and Shags, and we also enjoyed getting up close and personal with many birds on the water around the Zodiacs. Although breeding success appeared low, activity was still high and everywhere we looked we saw something else to attract our attention. Here a pair of Kittiwakes fought in the air, tumbling towards the water together; there a Murre was trying to squeeze in amongst its neighbours with a fish still in its bill, a meal for some hungry chick hidden away. This colony was an spectacular sight which offered a fantastic opportunity to get some great photographs.
 
Day 8 - Aug 28
Wrangel Island

We woke at the crack of dawn this morning and made for Cape Thomas where we split up into several groups to explore the tundra. Some hiked up into the hills and enjoyed watching Snowy Owls, while others strolled around the beach and lagoons, and also enjoyed good looks at Snowy Owls. When conditions are right, these iconic tundra raptors are easily spotted even from a great distance. Although lemming numbers this year were not high, there were still several successful nesting pairs in the area. We welcomed back the first overland excursion group and sent off the second group for their inland experience.
 
Day 9 - Aug 29
Herald Island and Cape Waring

We woke this morning under the magnificent snow-dusted cliffs of Herald Island. Despite sub-zero temperatures we headed out for a morning cruise under the bird cliffs along the southern shore. Great looks at a number of now familiar species were had by all and the sun soon came out turning a chilly morning into a glorious, balmy day. As we rounded a rocky headland a group of walrus was spotted near shore, with some already hauled out on the beach, while others bobbed around in the water. With the wind at our backs we shut down the engines and slowly drifted into their midst. The light was perfect and most of us managed to get at least a few (hundred) once-in-a-lifetime photos of these curious and charismatic creatures. We continued our exploration of the bird cliffs and even squeezed in a brief landing which allowed some folk the opportunity to join the very select group lucky enough to set foot on this remarkable island. A few hours later we were back at Wrangel Island for our second cruise of the day around Dragi Bay, protected from the somewhat confused seas by dramatic Cape Waring, the north-western point of the island. On this excursion we got spectacular looks at a mother Polar Bear with her cubs as well as a bear hunkered down in a snowdrift. Then as we slowly meandered through the ice towards the bird cliffs at the cape we all got good looks at a family of foxes that had infiltrated the bird colony, much to the chagrin of the kittiwakes which loudly voiced their displeasure.

 
Day 10 - Aug 30
Wrangel Island 

A foggy morning greeted us as we awoke for a late breakfast. With a few hours to spare before heading back south, the decision was made to cruise slowly along the coastline to the southwest of Rodger's Cove in the hope of seeing a Musk Ox, a species that has thus far eluded us (except for the overland groups that both enjoyed good looks). After several hours of searching in the fog, our hard work was eventually rewarded. Off on a low hillside near a dry river bed we saw a small herd of about a dozen Musk Oxen. We quickly launched the Zodiacs and headed for shore, although from the ship it wasn’t possible to tell whether we could make it through the thick band of ice washed up on the beach. We managed to find an opening and beach the boats so we could slowly advance up the river towards the herd. Eventually we crept close enough for some fantastic looks and great photos, which satisfied our wish to connect with the last of the "big three" target species of the trip. We left Wrangel behind us in the afternoon and headed south towards Kolyuchin Island. The huge flocks of thousands of Short-tailed Shearwaters we watched in the evening were an indication of what was to come when we arrived at the highly productive Kolyuchin Inlet the next morning.


 
Aug 31 - Day 11
Kolyuchin Inlet

Morning saw us at the mouth of Kolyuchin Inlet just off Kolyuchin Island. The sloppy sea conditions we experienced yesterday had followed us, but we decided to try and find some shelter in the lee of the island while we searched for walrus. They often haul out on the low gravel spits extending from the otherwise steep cliffs of the island. Sadly there were no walrus to be found there so we were content to enjoy the thousands of shearwaters milling around for the rest of the morning. After lunch, Rodney announced an impromptu plan to try and find a group of nomadic Chukchi reindeer herders that may have moved their herd to the shores of the inlet. In the late afternoon we found the herders, but there were no reindeer in sight. After conferring with one of the herders, we made a plan to wait at the temporary camp his family had set up near the beach while some of his party drove the reindeer closer to the shore. And so the waiting began. It was a true meeting of cultures. We watched the herders prepare a fire to boil some tea and get some dinner going, then some of us decided lie down on the soft tundra mosses and soak up the warmth of the sun. A couple of hours slid by and we passed the time in companionable silence. Finally a long row of antlers appeared on the horizon. These were followed by heads, which in turn were followed by reindeer. The herders had brought their entire herd of around 2,500 deer to the camp. The animals walked slowly towards us until we were eventually surrounded by them. The clicking of antlers and camera shutters was the only sound to be heard as we soaked up this surreal experience. We were amazed at how docile the animals were despite our presence as they simply milled around us. As the sun sank slowly behind the hills, we reluctantly packed up and returned to the ship happy to have enjoyed this remarkable experience in such a beautiful setting.


 
Sept 1 - Day 12
Uelen

Weather-wise, today was one of the nicest days of the voyage, and the warm sun and light breeze lured many of us out onto the decks even before breakfast. As we approached Cape Kekurnyi and the village of Uelen, we began to see whale spouts off in the distance. The closer we got, the more we saw and by the time the captain slowed the ship a few kilometres off shore we were virtually surrounded by Humpback Whales. A huge group several hundred strong, was feeding and relaxing in the shallow water off the cape. Thousands of Crested Auklets streamed amongst them, and we also got good looks at shearwaters, puffins, gulls and more. We drifted slowly with the whales until after lunch, when we were briefed in anticipation of our visit to Uelen. Once ashore we split up and headed off in two groups to explore the village. We had a tour of the school and learned about the Chukchi language and cultural programmes on offer there. At the museum we learned about walrus ivory carving and saw many marvellous examples of this local art. Some of the group picked some up as souvenirs to take home. Once the tour was over we were treated to a performance of songs and dances which showcased the unique culture of these hospitable people. It was an enlightening visit to this town, which is in some ways completely familiar yet in others completely foreign. After a short (and wet for some!) run back to the ship it was time for a late dinner and a chance to trade stories.


 
September 2  - Day 13
Masik Village Site

Late last night after consulting with the staff and crew, Rodney decided to take advantage of the good weather and check out an ancient (and seldom-visited) village site further south along the coast in Mechigmen Bay. According to Rodney it is almost impossible to reach by Zodiac in anything but the lightest winds, so very few have had the good fortune to see what is widely considered to be one of the most important and spectacular archeological sites in Chukotka. On a narrow gravel spit we found a sprawling version of the site we saw earlier on Yttygran Island. The remains of many yarangas as well as hundreds of huge whale bones were arranged around the ridges behind the beach stretching for over a kilometre along the shore. We tried to imagine what it must have been like to live here amidst this beautiful scenery and could feel a tangible energy around the place. The opposite side of the spit had a marshy area of small lakes and lagoons which offered some excellent birding as well as berry picking opportunities. Once back aboard, we reluctantly left this amazing site behind and headed off with the sun still shining down on us towards Anadyr. A strong but favourable wind began to build offshore and we enjoyed a spectacular sunset over the rising (but following) seas.
 
September 3 - Day 14
At Sea

Our final day aboard the ship was bittersweet. Our adventure was almost over and we were preparing to return to the real world. We would leave our new friends behind, but were secure in the knowledge that we had had a truly amazing expedition with enough memories to last a lifetime. A relaxed morning featured some lectures on wildlife and history and in the late afternoon we gathered for one final briefing. After recapping our trip, Rodney shared a slideshow of images taken by both staff and passengers highlighting our marvellous experiences. Any chance to visit this remarkable part of the world is special, but this particular trip seemed to bring everything together in a way that few others could. We had shared the amazing morning with the whales, the incredible evening with the reindeer, the birds, the bears, the scenery and the sunshine. While we were entertained in the Lecture Room, Jeremy and Bruce were hard at work preparing a true feast in the galley. After a few drinks in the bar and a final read-through of the species list, we gathered in the restaurant for our final dinner together, a gala buffet that could have fed an army of hungry of Polar Bears!


 
From the staff and crew of the Spirit of Enderby:
“Thank you for joining this expedition, sharing our adventures and making so many wonderful memories. Happy travels wherever life may take you!"