1324: Sea of Okhotsk 5 Jun 2013
Sea of Okhostk Expedition Log 1324
5 - 21 June 2013
MV Spirit of Enderby/Professor Khromov
Click here to see the Species List for this voyage.
5 June 2013
Korsakov
Forty expeditioners from around the world converged in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk and in the afternoon we headed from the main city in Sakhalin to the port of Korsakov where the Spirit of Enderby/Professor Kromov was waiting for us. We boarded the ship in eager anticipation for Heritage Expeditions second only expedition through the Sea of Okhostk, surely one of the world’s most rarely visited areas. Our vessel set sail shortly after we boarded and all were out on deck as the port of Korsakov faded into the distance. It was not long before we picked up our faithful following of Slaty-backed Gulls, Northern Fulmars and Black-legged Kittiwakes – birds that would escort us throughout our journey.
Shortly after we sailed, we were called to the Lecture Room by our Expedition Leader, Nathan Russ, where we received a ship orientation briefing and an introduction to the staff. This was followed by a safety briefing, Zodiac briefing and finally a lifeboat drill. Shortly afterwards we sat down to enjoy the first of many great dinners prepared by our chefs Lindsay and Dean. After a stroll around the decks it was time to turn in as we sailed northwards in very pleasant conditions.
6 June 2013
Tyuleniy Island
Calm and clear conditions greeted us as we awoke in a sea of many thousands of moulting Short-tailed Shearwaters sitting on the surface with the snow capped hills of the east coast of Sakhalin Island in the background. Adam gave an introduction to the seabirds of the region and then we headed out on deck to practice our identification. The fog rolled in as we approached Tyuleniy Island, and it was difficult to see anything through the thick blanket of sea mist. We boarded the Zodiacs and set off in the direction of the islands, guided by our trusty GPS. Huge numbers of Common Murres indicated there must be land around somewhere and then it appeared out of the fog. As we approached a little closer we could see impressive numbers of Northern Fur Seals on the beach and even larger numbers of the massive Steller Sea Lions – the world’s largest sea lion. Common Murres and Black-legged Kittiwakes were perched on every available ledge, even the buildings.
Two seal researchers walked out on to the beach for a chat as we made our landing on this wonderful island just as the fog began to burn off – perfect! After spending a considerable amount of time on the beach soaking in the sight, smell and sound of so many birds and seals we were guided to numerous fenced viewing points which protected us from the fur seals. These provided perfect vantage points to revel in the unbelievable concentration of wildlife that occurs here. The commotion from the thousands of fur seals and sea lions was almost overwhelming. The place was teeming with life and every square inch of rock seemed to have either a Murre or Kittiwake sitting on it. We happily spent a couple of hours on this tiny island and had to drag ourselves away to the ship where a very late lunch awaited.
By now the fog had burned off enough that the ship was clearly visible and it was a very pleasant Zodiac ride back to the ship. Once back on-board, fed and watered, we resumed our northward course and Leonid gave a talk on the history of the region. Conditions remained excellent through the evening when it was time for a drink in the bar followed by a hearty dinner.
7 June 2013
Pil’tun Bay
Excellent conditions continued as we continued northwards and we noticed some distant sea ice to the east as the snow capped mountains of Sakhalin lay to the west. The birding was excellent with good numbers of Aleutian Terns amongst the much more numerous Common Tern and also several of the very rare Long-billed Murrelet. Ancient Murrelets were particularly common and large numbers of Arctic Loon were also noted, often running along the water as the ship approached, but unable to fly. In the late morning we began to notice some of the oil platforms that controversially operate in this rich wildlife feeding area. After lunch we made our approach to Pil’tun Bay and came to anchor well off the coast in clear and calm conditions.
We had a long Zodiac run in to the shore as the waters off Pil’tun are very shallow. We noticed some Gray Whale blows in the distance, but decided to head for the shallow entrance to the lagoon and before long we were into the deeper waters of Pil’tun Lagoon. The first Steller’s Sea Eagle of the trip greeted us from the banks and there were many ducks inside the lagoon including Greater Scaup, Red-breasted Merganser, Black Scoter, Stejneger’s Scoter and Mallard. We landed in the area of the lighthouse which required a fairly long walk across muddy ground. Once on dry land we could spread out and climb up to the lighthouse which gave commanding views of the surrounding countryside. We also had a pleasant stroll around the scrubby Siberian Stone Pine and Alder vegetation that carpets the region. Pine Grosbeaks were plentiful and tame and the bright red males were lovely to watch. A couple Siberian Rubythroats were also noted.
On our return to the ship we were quite surprised to locate a small pod of Beluga Whales as we approached the river mouth. There were several adults and at least three dark gray calves and they allowed a reasonably close approach, on a couple of occasions lifting their heads out of the water to have a look at us. Leaving the Beluga in peace, we headed out to the area where four Gray Whales were feeding and had repeated excellent views of these spectacular animals. Pil’tun is probably the last remaining place on earth where one can expect to see the Western Gray Whale, so we counted ourselves extremely fortunate to have had such a great encounter with four of them.
We returned to the ship very content with a great afternoon and had a very enjoyable dinner as we journeyed towards the northern tip of Sakhalin.
8 June 2013
Pack ice north of Sakhalin
The plan was to make an expedition landing in northern Sakhalin, but heavy bumps in the night (which started around 3 am) indicated we had entered some pack ice. The 5am sunrise was a glorious pink with the snow covered mountains of Sakhalin to the south and heavy pack ice extending around us in all directions. We enjoyed our first sightings of ice seals – numerous Largha Seals and a few Ringed Seals, along with a couple of Minke Whales. We had not anticipated such heavy pack ice in this region, so the decision was made to abandon another landing in Sakhalin and head north instead for Iony Island.
We soon found that the ice to the north was impenetrable, but did encounter our first male Ribbon Seal which caused great excitement. It allowed a wonderfully close approach and we were well pleased to have had such a good look at this, the most striking of seals, found only in the Sea of Okhotsk. Adam gave a presentation on the marine mammals we are likely to encounter and Leonid gave us a lecture on the exploration of the region, while the bridge team was kept busy throughout the day navigating through the ice. We slowly worked our way eastwards and southwards and although we did not get off the ship, it was still a wonderful day with the ever changing scenery of ice. It was exhilarating to feel the ship push its way through heavy floes, and we had some great wildlife sightings include several more Ribbon Seals. Just as we sat down to enjoy dinner we felt the telltale swell which told us we were back in open water and setting a course for Iony Island.
9 June 2013
Iony Island
Early morning saw us in fog and swell and boarding Zodiacs to ride in towards Iony, again guided by our GPS. The fog was so heavy we could not see the land until we were within 100 meters of it, but conditions gradually improved over the two hours that we circumnavigated the island. This tiny speck of land in the middle of the Sea of Okhotsk is a haven for wildlife and has one of the densest concentrations of birds and seals of any where in the world. Steller Sea Lions were the most prominent component of the fauna. Females with their pups and the beach master bulls covered any rocky beach big enough to provide a haulout and even the sharp rocky pinnacles had big bulls perched on them. They roared and bellowed and followed us in the Zodiacs with a mix of curiosity and wariness. Kittiwakes and Thick-billed Murres covered the ledges and thousands of Fulmars circled above and around us, creating a blizzard-like effect. For the birders it was the presence of all four species of Auklet that made this place so unique – Crested, Least, Parakeet and Whiskered. The Whiskered Auklet is the rarest and most localised of the four, but on Iony it is very common and we saw hundreds of them, flying around, swimming on the water and clinging on to rocks low down where we could approach quite closely.
Sadly the time came to leave this assault to the senses and we reluctantly left the overpowering sights, sounds and smells of this magical island to find the ship again in the fog. Once back on-board we set a course for the Shantar Islands, which lay beyond the pack ice.
By lunchtime we had left the fog behind and entered a world of bright sunshine and heavy pack ice once again. We launched the Zodiacs for a couple hours of exploration amongst the loose pack. Hundreds of Fulmars and Kittiwakes swam around the boats and towards the end of the jaunt we located a very cute baby Ribbon Seal which allowed a close approach. Everyone enjoyed the novelty of feeling warm sunshine whilst surrounded by pack ice in the middle of the Sea of Okhotsk. We spent the rest of the day cruising along the ice edge and saw another male Ribbon Seal close by. We launched the Zodiacs and made a cautious approach, rowing the boats very close to this stunning seal and were rewarded with unbelievable views and photographs in the evening light. As we returned to the ship and set a course westwards we were treated to a spectacular sunset.
10 June 2013
Malminskie Islands
Breakfast time found us a couple hours out from the Malminskie Islands in clear water and bright sunshine, with the mountains fringing the coast of the Sea of Okhotsk stretched away to the north and south. Near to the islands two Steller’s Sea Eagles sat regally atop their high ice flows amongst the pack ice and we got some great photos from the Zodiacs. We then spent some time cruising around the islands in terrific light. This is another island packed with birdlife and here it is the huge concentration of hundreds of Spectacled Guillemots that is particularly noteworthy. Large numbers of Thick-billed Murre and Horned and Tufted Puffin were also seen before we headed across to the mainland for a landing in the bright sunshine. We had a couple of hours to stretch our legs and explore a small river valley and just the tiniest fraction of the endless Taiga forest (the largest forest in the world) that covers so much of Russia. Wildlife is shy in the Taiga, but we did see several more Steller’s Sea Eagles and even located a nest. A few people also saw Willow Ptarmigan and bear tracks along the beach. After enjoying the walk and the views we returned to the ship and sailed for some more pack ice.
We quickly encountered more Ribbon Seals which allowed a remarkably close approach by the ship, so more excellent photographs were obtained. We also located our first Bearded Seal which permitted us to sail right up to it for some excellent views and photographs. When it became apparent that there were in fact hundreds of seals around us on the ice of all four species found in this region – Ribbon, Bearded, Ringed and Largha – we turned off the engines and drifted under the blue skies to enjoy the experience. Over dinner we left the ice and returned to Malminskie for an evening Zodiac cruise. This was a chance to sample the evening shift of the birdlife and while many of the species present earlier in the day were not in evidence, there were perhaps a thousand Ancient Murrelets gathered on the water and chirping loudly. It was a rare opportunity to get such great views and photographs of this shy species of Alcid. We continued our cruise around the island and enjoyed the wheeling birds and the terrific lighting as the sun slowly dipped below the western mountains, returning to the ship well after sunset.
11 June 2013
Fedora Bay
Our good fortune with the weather held and bright blue skies again illuminated the mountains as we came to anchor in Fedora Bay. After a quick scout trip by the expedition staff we were heading towards shore in the Zodiacs where three Brown Bears were feeding intently on the shoreline. With an offshore breeze blowing we were able to make a relatively close approach. While the large blond bear was quite wary, the two smaller dark brown bears allowed some excellent observations and photography options while they fed and rummaged around in the rocks and ice along the shoreline. Eventually they became wary and one of the bears stood up on its haunches before the two animals ran with ease up the steep scree slope and disappeared into the cover of the Larch forest.
We carried on and made a landing where we could enjoy a walk around a still iced-over lake and explore the Taiga forest and the long gravel beach. Several species of ducks congregated around the open patches of the lake, including Common Merganser, Common Goldeneye and a Peregrine Falcon made a failed attempt at catching a Goldeneye. Steller’s Sea Eagles were also in attendance with two active nests. The walking was easy, the air warm and the scenery breathtaking, so it was a very pleasant morning ashore. In the afternoon we sailed northwards under clear skies, and continued to enjoy calm seas and stunning scenery along the way. Fulmars, Kittiwakes and Murres were regularly sighted but no marine mammals were noted. After dinner we saw several pods of Dall’s Porpoise, a couple of Minke Whales and a truly spectacular sunset over the mountain ranges to the west.
12 June 2013
Okhotsk town
The seemingly endless good weather continued yet another day as our wake up call found us sitting off the mouth of the Okhotsk River in bright blue skies and calm waters. It was a long run in the Zodiacs over the very shallow ground that extends miles out to sea and then we picked our way through the ice and into the river mouth. There we were met with an extremely strong current so we slowly made our way up river and eventually arrived at the small wharf of Okhotsk town where we were greeted by the locals in traditional cossack dress. We were escorted to the cultural centre where there were displays and samples of Evenk culture. From there we went on to the theatre in the town centre where we enjoyed a Russian cultural performance. It was interesting to experience the curious mix of Russian and Evenk culture that is to be found in this part of the world. After a hearty lunch and a wander around town it was time to return to the Zodiacs. Going with the current made it a much speedier trip back to the ship. At the river mouth we saw nine Steller’s Sea Eagles, many Bearded and Largha Seals and Aleutian Terns all feeding on the fish that were moving up the river.
The afternoon presented yet another opportunity to enjoy tremendous views of the spectacular coastline and watch for wildlife. A sighting of two male Orca or Killer Whales was the highlight of the afternoon. Leonid also gave us a presentation on the Russian gulag system, one of the great tragedies of humanity. Following a drink in the bar and dinner, those who still had the energy to stay awake enjoyed yet another unforgettable sunset.
13 June 2013
Magadan
As we entered Magadan Bay we were rather surprised to encounter heavy sea ice. This delayed our arrival into Magadan somewhat, but no one was complaining as it gave us another couple of hours pushing through sea ice. Everyone was out on deck enjoying the glorious conditions and photographing good numbers of all four species of ice seal, including yet again good numbers of Ribbon Seals. There were also several Steller’s Sea Eagles perched out on the taller ice hummocks, but surprisingly few other birds. Eventually we came alongside (a tedious process due to the amount of ice packed against the wharf) and once through the various security and customs protocols were off on a tour of the town.
The most poignant stop on the route was undoubtedly the ‘Mask of Sorrow’, the great memorial to 130,000 people who were sent to the gulags from Magadan, the majority of them innocent of any crime. Other stops included visiting both the geological and the regional museums and also the brand new cathedral – the largest in eastern Russia. Having seen the sights, it was time to return to the ship and head back out through the ice and all those seals as we enjoyed a beer on the front deck. After dinner, most of us in turned in promptly with the announcement that we had a 0445 wake up call ahead of us.
14 June 2013
Talan Island, Koni Peninsula
The promised 0445 wake up call came as a bit of a shock to the system, but looking out at the glowing orange sky above Talan Island it looked to be a more rewarding alternative to sleeping in! We quickly boarded Zodiacs and headed out for a memorable circumnavigation of the island in the early morning light as the birds departed their nesting sites for foraging sites out to sea. Most prominent were the tens of thousands of Crested Auklets whirling around in tight flocks that looked like smoke over the water. Equally impressive were the many thousands of Puffins, both Horned and Tufted, on the wing high overhead. In smaller numbers, but of no less interest were the hundreds of Parakeet Auklets, Spectacled Guillemots and Ancient Murrelets sitting out on the sea. On most islands the sheer cliffs present the spectacle of thousands of Kittiwakes, but unlike most islands, here large numbers of Steller’s Sea Eagles sent the Kittiwakes into a great panic as they swooped through the flocks trying to grab an unsuspecting individual. The sheer number of birds, the towering cliffs and beautiful early morning light made for an experience that will never be forgotten. We then made a short landing which allowed us an opportunity to see, smell, and hear the Puffins and Auklets as they went about their business on the rocky scree slopes. Breakfast was devoured in great quantities when we returned to the ship and we hoisted the anchor and sailed for the Koni peninsula.
Samuel gave a presentation on the Kolyma and gulags in French and we aired the BBC Russian series while the Spirit of Enderby sailed along in calm seas though now overcast conditions. As we neared the Koni Peninsula the weather deteriorated and rain set in along with an easterly chop. As we neared the anchorage the dark gray lenticular clouds over the landscape created a rather ominous looking scene and we were pleased to observe no less than nine brown bears along the beach at the mouth of the Burgauli River, our intended landing spot for the afternoon. Amongst the various bears were a couple of huge males and a sow with two cubs. By the time we had launched the Zodiacs and were heading in to shore, only four bears still remained in sight, the remainder having taken cover in the Stone Pine on the hillside. Two bears allowed a surprisingly close approach and we watched them for some time as they sniffed their way along the shoreline in search of some food – clearly the salmon were not running here yet. As the bears had cleared out of the landing area we decided to go ahead and have a walk ashore. It was pleasant to stretch the legs, enjoy the dark scenery (the rain had stopped by now) and a nice profusion of wildflowers on the grassy areas. Several bears were still in view, but more distant than before and mostly moving away. Eventually we headed back to the ship to warm up and have dinner while the ship continued sail along the southern part of the Koni peninsula.
15 June 2013
Astronomy Bay and the Yamskie Islands
After the rain and dark skies of yesterday we were happy to be greeted by yet another glorious sunny and warm day. After breakfast we all eagerly headed ashore for a landing in Astronomy Bay. A few waterfowl, including Common Eider were noted in the bay and as it was low tide, the drivers had to make a slow careful approach to avoid rocks in the shallows. Once ashore we divided into groups and spread out to explore the Tundra and Larch forests in the warm weather. The profusion of Rhododendrons, Anemones, Louseworts and many other wildflowers made a beautiful display. Birdlife was rather quiet but Dusky Warblers sang heartily and there were also Rubythroats, Willow Tits and a couple Willow Ptarmigan to observe. A pair of Rough-legged Buzzards had a nest in the area and gave great views, while the ever present Steller’s Sea Eagle dominated the air. After an enjoyable walk it was time for a ride back to the ship, now with a higher tide in the bay. Back on-board it was time for a brave few to take the great Sea of Okhotsk polar plunge. Although there were only four takers they provided great entertainment for the rest of the group. Then we heaved anchor and set sail for the Yamskie Islands.
It took the whole afternoon to sail along the bottom of the Koni Peninsula; it was another afternoon for the memory bank with endless beautiful vistas of the towering mountains in bright sunlight, glass calm seas and a final push through sea ice. For the fifth time on the expedition we were able to observe all four species of ice seals and in fact today provided our highest tally of Ribbon Seals which seemed to be on every ice floe! We rounded the bottom of the Koni peninsula and headed for Mantakil Island in the Yamskie group as the wind picked up and large numbers of seabirds surrounded the ship. Conditions improved as we ate a rather hurried dinner and then set out for a never to be forgotten evening Zodiac cruise.
It was a crystal clear, warm, calm evening at Yamskie as millions of birds returned to the island. We started out by cruising around the flocks of Auklets (Crested, Least, and Parakeet) that were slowly starting to mass on the water. We then investigated the cliff faces that were covered in Kittiwakes, Murres, and Fulmars. Rounding the corner we encountered the large Steller Sea Lion colony that dominates the beach. We did not want to disturb the colony, so kept a respectable distance, but some inquisitive Sea Lions swam over to play with us. The best part was still to come however as we returned back to the north coast of the island in flat calm waters with a slowly sinking sun. Earlier in the evening there had been many birds, but now the numbers had reached truly epic proportions. There were millions upon millions of birds massing on the water and flying high in the air. On the water itself, the majority of the birds were Crested Auklets swirling around in blizzards and seeming to glow orange in the evening light. Overhead, enormous numbers of Northern Fulmars wheeled through the air. Higher still, out of view to the unaided eye but clearly visible with binoculars, a black wall of birds covered the sky. These were the Least Auklets returning to their mountaintop colonies. Through the birds swooped the predators – Slaty Backed Gulls and Steller’s and White-tailed Eagles hoping to catch a meal. As the sun gradually set the western sky on fire the Auklets began to land on the boulder covered shoreline. The evening was true sensory overload and it is hard to imagine anywhere else in the world you could see so much life packed into such a small area. It was nearly midnight by the time we were back on-board and the evening had been so intense it took quite a while for most of us to wind down and fall asleep.
16 June 2013
Harlankina River
Yet another blue sky morning found us in the lee of Cape Skedny off the southern coast of the Koni peninsula. After a substantial breakfast we headed ashore to land at the mouth of the Harlankina River. At least a couple of Brown Bears were sighted in the distance as the group split into two walking options. The more energetic amongst us headed up a scree slope and had a fair climb to a peak. This afforded superb views of the surrounding countryside – the low mountains extending off into the north and the sea fog slowly rolling in from the south. The slower walkers meandered along the Harlankina Lagoon. The lagoon itself had a nice assortment of waterfowl including Common Goldeneye, Greater Scaup, Red-breasted Merganser, Eurasian Wigeon and Harlequin Duck. We found a nest of Buff-bellied Pipit and a Common Ringed Plover gave us his broken-wing display, indicating that he too had a nest nearby. The profusion of wildflowers was dominated by the beautiful Kamchatka Rhododendron. A spectacular ice cave cut through the permafrost could be explored and rocky jumbles held shy but vocal Northern Pikas. We found that patient observation resulted in good views. A lucky few had a very close encounter with a curious young Brown Bear that was woken from a deep sleep under the birch scrub.
By the time we returned to the ship for lunch the wind had picked up considerably and the sea fog had nearly enveloped the ship. It was now time to leave the Koni Peninsula and head for the west coast of Kamchatka. We sailed all afternoon through thick fog and it was a chance to catch up on sleep, edit photos, write logs or watch videos. We viewed the Across Russia series, a French video on the gulag system, and a video on the wildlife of Kamchatka. Following dinner a very obliging pod of Dall’s Porpoise playfully rode the bow for some time allowing close observation of this speedy little marine mammal.
17 June 2013
Along the west coast of Kamchatka
The staff were up at daybreak as we were anchored off the Ptichy rocks. Due to the very heavy fog we decided not to proceed with an early morning Zodiac cruise and instead heaved anchor and sailed southwards. After a lie in and breakfast we had a morning of presentations. Guest lecturer Tommy spoke on cultural diversity around the world and Leonid gave a presentation on the fascinating Kuril Islands. We continued southwards throughout the afternoon and eventually sailed out of the fog so we could now see the low lying west Kamchatka coast. There were several sightings of Dall’s Porpoise and also a couple of Northern Fur Seals. During the afternoon Grigory gave a lecture on volcanism in the Kuril Islands. This was followed by a chance to do some retail therapy in the sea shop and the second to last episode of Across Russia. After devouring another delicious dinner created by Lindsay and Dean, many of us headed out on deck to soak up the late evening light. All in all it had been a relaxing day, a good chance to catch up on photographs and notes and process some of the amazing experiences of the past several days.
18 June 2013
Opala River
We were back in the fog as we continued to sail along the west coast of Kamchatka. Another guest lecturer, Alexey, showed his incredible photographs and shared stories of his time at Kuril Lakes. This was followed by Peter giving us a talk on some of his amazing artwork. As we poked our heads outside after the morning’s art presentations it was pleasant to see that we had left the fog behind us again. After lunch we came to anchor and boarded Zodiacs to head up the Opala River. The salmon had just begun to run so there were good numbers of Largha Seal waiting for them at the mouth of the river. As we cruised up the long, shallow river we passed a colony of Larids, with Black-headed and Common Gull and Common and Aleutian Tern flying at the Zodiacs to scold us for our intrusion. It was particularly great to see so many Aleutian Terns. We made a landing on the bank just past the salmon fishing camp that was starting to spring into action. We explored the area around a disused fishing camp and enjoyed the wildflowers including the orchid Dactylorhiza and numerous songbirds including Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warbler and Siberian Rubythroat. There were even more Largha Seals feeding in the current at the river mouth as we returned to the ship. After dinner we had spectacular views of some of the volcanoes along the southern coast of the Kamchatka Peninsula as well as the dominating Alaid Volcano of Atlasova. Through the night we journeyed towards Atlasov.
19 June 2013
Shelikov Bay, Second Strait and Ptichy Rocks - Paramushir Island
We had intended to land at Atlasova but a large swell was rolling through from the Pacific so early in the morning we heaved anchor and sailed southwards to Shelikov Bay. Conditions were quite windy but as we came to anchor within the bay we had a good lee and enjoyed an easy landing at a derelict fishing camp. The landscape was lovely with the mountains of Paramushir coming in and out of the fog and clear views of Alaid volcano. A good variety of birdlife was seen including numerous Brown-headed Thrushes, a couple Rough-legged Buzzards and the recently described Kamchatka Leaf Warbler. A Brown Bear seen in the distance slowly approached and a furtive Red Fox was seen trying to steal eggs from a Raven’s nest.
We returned to the ship and just before the lunch call went out a cetacean was seen in the distance slapping its tail. The staff on the bridge recognized it as the tail of a Right Whale but could not believe they were seeing this mythical beast. As the ship cautiously approached it repeatedly lobtailed and the expedition team dared to hope that it was in fact a Right Whale. Finally the animal surfaced in profile and was indeed confirmed to be a North Pacific Right Whale, the rarest whale in the world and the first ever sighting in our many years of Heritage Expedition voyages to the Russian Far East. But the best was yet to come, as we went dead in the water and this behemoth of a whale approached within a few meters allowing prolonged observation and hundreds of quality images to be taken. We stayed with the whale for about an hour before moving on, an experience even the hardened expedition professionals will remember forever.
After our delayed lunch we approached Second Strait where a massive feeding flock of over one hundred thousand Short-tailed Shearwaters greeted us. As we sailed through the strait surrounded by Tufted Puffins and Northern Fulmars we passed Severo-Kurilsk, Leonid’s home town. We also saw our first few Sea Otters which increased in numbers as we headed towards the Ptichy Rocks. There was a fair swell running as we approached the rocks so we had little trouble launching Zodiacs and heading ashore where we were quickly surrounded by birds and marine mammals. These rocks have incredible numbers of Sea Otters and it was great to watch them running around on the rocks and swimming around our Zodiacs. We also encountered good numbers of Harbour Seals for the first time on the voyage, and there were also many Largha Seals on the sandy beach. As we headed for the most distant of the three rocks, the fog enveloped us and screened the distant volcanoes creating a truly ethereal experience. Hundreds of Pelagic Cormorants and thousands of Slaty-backed Gulls blanketed the rocks that loomed out of the mist and we recorded our first Pigeon Guillemots. As suddenly as it had appeared, the fog evaporated and we were left with the most amazing evening light which allowed excellent photograhic opportunities of Tufted Puffins, Sea Otters, and Harbour Seals. Once again the mist rolled in so we returned to the ship, but by the time we were on-board it was clear again. These ever changing conditions and the effect they had on the scenery were a treat to experience, so we decided it was high time to visit the bar to celebrate this remarkably successful day.
20 June 2013
Bukhta Russkaya
We sailed northwards along the east coast of Kamchatka through heavy fog. A handful of graceful Laysan Albatross were spotted flying close to the ship before we all headed down for the expedition recap led by Nathan. We had accomplished and seen so much it was a good chance to start to process it. Leaving behind the Pacific swell we entered into the sheltered fiord of Bukhta Russkaya. After lunch we were all ashore for a walk along the coastline. Water levels were very high this year with heavy snow melt still going on – clearly spring had come late here. A few salmon were seen just starting to run and evidence of bear was everywhere although we did not actually see any. It felt good to stretch the legs and contemplate the stands of Birch just coming into leaf so late in the season on the hillsides. The Zodiac ride back to the ship along the coast allowed us to view some lovely waterfalls and good numbers of birds including Tufted Puffins and Pigeon Guillemots before spending a quiet evening at anchor. It was a final chance to gather in the bar for a drink and enjoy Lindsay and Dean’s final dinner. Late in the evening we heaved anchor and set sail for Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy.
21 June 2013
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy
Many of us were out early as we sailed up the stunning Avacha Bay and came alongside our wharf in PK. It was time to depart the ship and go our separate ways. We had seen and accomplished much during our time together, creating memories and friendships that will last a very long time.
