1372: Ross Sea - In the Wake of Scott and Shackleton 7 Feb 2013
7 February – 7 March 2013
Voyage 1372 on MV Spirit of Enderby/Professor Khromov
Click here for species list for this voyage.
Thursday 7 February 2013 – Southward Ho!
Noon position: Latitude 46°35.82’S Longitude 168°20.67’E
On our way at last, with 49 of us about to experience magnificent sub-Antarctic Islands administered by New Zealand and Australia, followed by the natural beauty and links with the extraordinary human history of the Ross Sea region of Antarctica, south of New Zealand.
We arrived yesterday in the southernmost city of Invercargill. Here we stayed at the Kelvin Hotel and had a beautiful meal. This morning we were assisted with our luggage by Heritage Expeditions to the ship and it was placed in our cabins.
Many of us visited the excellent Southland Museum in its beautiful garden setting. Of interest was The Roaring Forties New Zealand Subantarctic Islands video and exhibition of historic artifacts and Maori artifacts.
After lunch we were conveyed by coach to Bluff a small coastal town and port about thirty minutes from Invercargill and famous for Bluff Oysters. Here we boarded the Spirit of Enderby, and were shown by staff to our cabins and cleared by Customs.
We left on schedule at 4pm with a Little Blue Penguin swimming beside the ship. Following escort with the Pilot we were then on our way. At 4.45 we assembled in the lecture room for our first briefing - introduction to the ship and safety. A practical demonstration as required by international maritime regulations, took place with the two lifeboats.
By 9p.m the sea was up a little although this did not prevent a few of us from enjoying the sun going down about ten minutes later, the sunset and view of Stewart Island to starboard. By now the ship was beginning to “dance” and we preferred to head for the cabins.
Friday 8 February 2013 – en-route to Auckland Islands; arrival Enderby Island
Noon position: Latitude 48°56.72’S Longitude 166°32.28’E
Rodney advised soon after 5a.m that we were off the Snares Islands and some of us went up to the bridge. Although still fairly dark, we were able to see hundreds of Sooty Shearwaters in “rafts” or flying about, before heading further afield to feed.
With the ship rolling, a day of rest was declared and many took the opportunity to catch up with sleep, read or visit the Bridge. At noon the sea was still rough with “white horses” from the westerly swell, along with a good 30 knot northerly.
From the Bridge several species of albatross and Cape Petrels could be seen. A few Shy Albatross were on the water and environmental scientist Roy reported a Giant Petrel killing a Cape Petrel while in flight.
At 7.50p.m we were at 50°20.57’S 166°24.50E. Although the sea was still, our progress was good with 11-12 knots being maintained. Not so many sea birds about although it was a good day for sighting birdlife. A Shy Albatross and a Black-bellied Storm Petrel were seen to take small fish.
By 8.20 Enderby Island appeared through the murk off to Starboard and soon we were entering Port Ross Harbour, with considerably calmer waters. We anchored at Port Ross at 9.07pm. Once again we enjoyed an excellent meal and the birthday celebrations for a passenger, complete with cake.
With our first day now concluded, we prepared for what promises to be a most interesting landing and full day tomorrow.
Saturday 9 February 2013 – Enderby Island
Historic Event! At 2a.m 100 years ago today (then a Monday) the SS Terra Nova hove to off Oamaru, New Zealand. Two Officers were landed to dispatch a message to London via Christchurch, advising the deaths of Captain R.F. Scott and his party.
Noon position: Latitude 50°30.46S Longitude 166°16.7E
We all benefited from a comfortable night and arose this morning to a beautiful day with just a light breeze stirring the sheltered waters of Port Ross.
We had a briefing at 8.15a.m where Rodney gave an excellent introduction to the Auckland Islands. This included a précis of the geology and human history including phases of settlement along with the diverse natural history.
While the Zodiacs were prepared for landing, we carried out mandatory quarantine measures including vacuuming of clothes and back packs and boot scrubbing with a bio-control liquid.
The day was beautiful with just a light breeze and all of us were ashore at Sandy Bay by 10.30a.m.
Of interest was a “finger post” with inscriptions perhaps by WW2 coast –watchers, giving direction to the castaway depot; the “Stella Hut” in Rata and primeval-looking Dracophyllum trees and stunted Rata nearby.
Rodney gave a brief talk before Katya led us over a grassy sward, thence through Casinia bushes and red-flowering Rata to an excellent NZ Department of Conservation board walk. This eventually saw us on top of the island and crossing an extensive area of seedling Rata and other plants.
The Southern Royal Albatross observed last month on a nest beside the board walk was still in residence and is one of 60 pair on the island. Also seen was a New Zealand Falcon being chased by a Skua.
Once across the island, time was spent enjoying the wild surface of the sea as waves crashed into cliffs far below. We had good viewing of Shags and a group led by Rodney, set out to try and find an Auckland Islands Snipe, being successful with one sighting.
Katya took a further group along the cliff top, to view three adult Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, with four large chicks. A keen northerly was blowing, although this did not in any way hinder activities.
Rodney, Brent and Konrad with around 33 passengers, set out on the eight mile hike around the eastern end of the island. On the way they passed the reef where the Derry Castle was wrecked in 1887, then continued past Bones Bay. A mass grave is in the vicinity and the original wooden marker is exhibited in the Southland Museum, Invercargill.
The remainder of us headed back via the board walk, to once again enjoy the beauty of the extraordinary, natural environment. In the Rata forest we were treated to the superb sound of a Bellbird chorus, as several birds fed on nectar of Rata flowers in the canopy. Many of us obtained good photographs of the birds. Also observed in the same area were Red-crowned Parakeet, Tomtits, Pipit and a Blackbird.
Some seals had tags on each fore-flipper along with a white or yellow disc on the head. A small number of immature bulls were making their presence known, while a large grey bull Elephant Seal lay nearby and was probably preparing for moulting.
The long walkers enjoyed the trip immensely. Birds seen included Yellow-eyed Penguins, a Snares Crested Penguin, Erect Crested Penguin, Banded Dotterels, Red-crested Parakeets, three Snipe, two New Zealand Falcons along with New Zealand Fur Seals. Konrad particularly enjoyed his first visit, saying that the highlight for him was recording a Bellbird’s song with the bird barely a metre away.
By late afternoon we were all on board after a wonderful first landing in the Subantarctic islands. Needless to say, discussion continued in the bar and library area. After a splendid dinner Katya convened the first bird and mammal meeting for the voyage.
Sunday 10 February 2013 –Auckland Island – North Arm Carnley Harbour and Tagua Bay – WW2 Coastwatcher huts; en-route to Macquarie Island
Noon position: Latitude 50°78.8’S Longitude 166°04’E
The anchor was lifted at 3a.m and the ship relocated via the east coast of Auckland Island to Carnley Harbour. Here numerous seabirds including Sooty Shearwaters, Auckland Islands Shag and albatross were present. With a choppy sea and mist shrouding the hillsides, the landscape seemed a fairly forbidding place.
After breakfast the Spirit of Enderby was moving up North Arm and by 8a.m had passed Musgrave Peninsula and a number of historic sites including shipwrecks.
A pre-landing briefing was held at 9a.m and we were told of the background to the World War 2 Cape Expedition No.2 Coastwatcher huts at Tagua Bay. We then prepared for our last landing while at the Auckland Islands.
By 10am we were on a beach consisting of basalt and limestone boulders, Rimu and Dracophyllum scrub. One Rimu tree was exceptionally large and probably several hundred years old. Some sighted a New Zealand Falcon. A Yellow-crowned Parakeet was briefly sighted, as a second bird was heard calling nearby.
We trekked up the narrow track, until we reached derelict buildings from the Number 2 Coastwatcher Station. The main complex had most of the roof and walls missing and was in a very decrepit state. The brief stop enabled photographs to be taken.
Continuing on, it was not long before the former Coastwatcher aerial mast was seen, followed a little higher up by the restored lookout hut. Inside were a few artifacts including an old shoe, some tins and a tattered sheet of meteorological instructions including the Beaufort scale for estimating wind speed. From here there was a commanding view east through the trees toward the entrance to Carnley Harbour. We spent a few minutes taking photographs of the hut and its contents, along with a delicate mauve orchid nearby, which Rodney said is one of several species on Auckland Island. We then trekked back down the hill and a buffet lunch was enjoyed.
At 1.30 the anchor was raised and we were on our way in a stiff 20-25 knot nor-west sea and on a south-westerly course toward Macquarie Island. By 3p.m we were passing windswept Adams Island with its forbidding partially mist shrouded landscape. From the Bridge one could observe numerous albatross and other birds.
Following the evening meal and Katya’s bird/mammal discussion, the small number of attendees also had the opportunity to see outstanding photographs of the New Zealand Falcon and video of a singing bellbird.
Monday 11 February – Southern Ocean; en-route to Macquarie Island.
A hundred years ago the SS Terra Nova arrived Lyttelton New Zealand
Noon position: Latitude 53°16.85’S Longitude 161°30.66’E
The Spirit of Enderby danced during the night. At midnight we passed over water sounded as 4444m deep on the Emerald Basin. The naming of this feature on the sea floor has not been established. By 8a.m we were still on our south-west course.
The ship was very quiet this morning, as we continued to make good progress with an average speed. A few Shy Albatross were accompanying us although with the deep water of around 3840m, bird numbers tend to drop off dramatically. It is also unusual to see mammals in this area.
This afternoon the seas seemed a littler calmer. Credit to our chefs who along with the waitresses continue to produce and put high quality meals on the table irrespective of the conditions.
By 7p.m the wind had eased and the calmer sea was a deep cobalt blue with a few scattered “white horses”. We had our bird and mammal meeting when lists were up-dated and items of interest were discussed.
Tuesday 12 February – Macquarie Island [World Heritage Area] – Sandy Bay and Buckle’s Bay
Noon position: Latitude 54°34.027’S Longitude 158°55.925’E
The Spirit of Enderby arrived at Macquarie Island just before Midnight and anchored off the ANARE (Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions) Station at Buckle’s Bay, in about 30m of water. The position here was 54°30’S 158°57.09’E
Macquarie Island is approximately the same size as Adams Island in the Auckland and Campbell Islands, and is located approximately mid-way between Tasmania and Antarctica. It is a ‘young’ island centered on an underwater ridge known as the Macquarie Ridge, which is part of a fault zone marking the Australian-Pacific Tectonic Plate Boundary. This started forming 30-11 million years ago.
After breakfast a Zodiac was sent ashore and returned with resident rangers from the Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service. We then relocated to Sandy Bay. Rodney assembled us in the lecture room at 9.45 for our briefing and by 10.30, we were being shuttled ashore. The morning was sunny although a brisk breeze blew. To greet us on the shore was a hunter who is part of the pest eradication programme (rabbits), along with his two dogs.
We had a memorable morning with time spent at the King Penguin colony, where a ranger and scientist answered our many questions. There were developing chicks in light brown down along with many penguins with eggs or very small chicks on their feet beneath a warm fold of vascular tissue.
We were fortunate to be able to obtain good photographs at close range. The gorgeous colouration of the head ranged from cadmium orange “ear patches” down to burnt sienna on the throat, then fading into a deep to pale lemon-yellow. We also obtained a record of amusing incidents such as a Brown Skua being challenged by three King Penguins probably because the Skua wished to remain on a certain mound of grass.
Along the beach were groups of moulting Elephant Seals. Younger Elephant Seals were occasionally sparring and chest-butting as if to show who was in charge. Some of the bulls were huge and showed little respect for smaller animals as they launched themselves on top. A few in the water roared and made half-hearted attempts to bite one another as they exerted a challenge for retention of the particular area of water.
Most of us walked up to the viewing platform, which over-looked the vast number of feisty Royal Penguins. These were also moulting and the Station Leader was very helpful at the lookout by answering numerous questions. Moulting was well advanced and there was a continual procession of birds moving from and to the sea by way of Finches Creek. At least one Royal Penguin fell victim to a Brown Skua as we watched.
About midday some of us who were at the Royal Penguin viewing platform felt a short, sharp jolt from beneath. Trevor said ‘it lasted about three seconds and was a sideways shudder.’ Earthquakes are not uncommon here, with one being recorded last December. The island began emerging some 600-700,000 years ago.
Other birds sighted, included Northern and Southern Giant Petrels including a white morph, with these birds making up 10% of the southern species. We also saw the Macquarie Island Shag and albatross. As often happens at Macquarie, a squall with sleet came through and a short time later the sun was again shining. Most of the days of the year there is some rain.
Once back onboard we prepared for our next excursion to the ANARE Station. With time moving on, Rodney called us together for a briefing before the next stage of our visit to ‘Macca’ as the island is affectionately known to ANARE expeditioners.
By 4.30p.m the landing for Buckle’s Bay was underway. On shore we were met by Wildlife Service Rangers who took us in groups by way of the excellent board walk up the side of Razorback to a viewing platform. Birds sighted from here included Light-mantled Sooty Albatross with a pair giving a brilliant display of formation flying, Northern and Southern Giant Petrels, Brown Skua and the non-endemic Redpoll. A few large bull Elephant Seals in wallows created in tussock grass, gave the occasional grunt from their resonating chamber in the large wrinkled proboscis, forming part of the nose.
During the remainder of the afternoon short-lived squalls with hail and sleet moved through and after being taken along the beach beside Hasselborough Bay named after Captain Frederick Hasselborough who discovered the island in July 1810, we enjoyed seeing numerous Giant Petrels, moulting Gentoo Penguins followed by a look at various facilities.
The ANARE staff made us very welcome in their Mess Hall. Here we were treated to fresh scones with cream and jam along with a nice hot cup of tea. Many of us bought postcards from the friendly station postmaster. Proceeds from these went to those suffering from the recent Tasmanian bush fires. Our tour was concluded with a further look at other facilities including large iron try-pots associated with early whaling. Unfortunately a large bull Elephant Seal on the board walk meant we were unable to view an excellent display of pictorial panels beside two steam digesters! These were associated with the infamous entrepreneur Joseph Hatch who in the 1890’s, rendered down penguins for their oil.
A brief visit was made to the small Rockhopper penguin colony located on a cliff below the former ANARE ‘ham radio’ hut. Back on board we had a very convivial hour in the Globe Bar and Library before enjoying a late meal at 9.15p.m. So ended a most interesting and educational day on Macquarie Island. We now prepare for the next phase of our expedition.
Wednesday 13 February – Macquarie Island
Noon position: Latitude 54°31.25’S Longitude 158°57.81’E
We had a good, well-needed nights rest, rising this morning to a cool 3°C at 8.15a.m, along with a light coating of snow on the higher points of Macquarie Island. The wind was up and sea had scattered “white horses”. At 8.45 an announcement was made that a pod of 20 plus Broad-finned Pilot Whales, was off the stern of the ship.
We assembled in the lecture room for a briefing by Rodney on what we can expect for the next stage of our expedition. Ice maps indicate conditions for entering the Ross Sea are in our favour. He outlined three reasons: the Ross Sea current, the high pressure system and melting of ice over the summer months. Our course will probably be from about Latitude 70°, then along the 160° Meridian. Rodney also mentioned that the fuel tanker for McMurdo Station re-supply is presently discharging at the ice pier, and the icebreaker chartered by the US National Science Foundation is working in the channel.
In his second lecture, Rodney provided further useful information on Macquarie Island. This included the geology, human history and natural history, which because of the remoteness of the island, includes 40 species of vascular plants, 80 mosses, 100 lichens, 23 sea birds (12 pair of Wandering Albatross are highly protected) along with four species of seals. This lecture was followed by an excellent presentation, ‘Ocean Wanderers – Southern seabirds’ and will assist considerably in identification as we proceed south on the expedition.
By 1.20p.m the wind had increased to 35-40 knots and a confused sea was covered with “white horses”, sheets of spray off the wave crests and patches of foam.
Thursday 14 February – St.Valentines Day. Macquarie Island – Lusitania Bay; en-route to the Ross Sea
Noon position: Latitude 55°10.20’S Longitude 159°24.69’E
Soon after breakfast, we proceeded west and enjoyed an excellent view of the large King Penguin colony spread along the coast. From a distance one could make out three rusting steam digesters, now surrounded by tens of thousands of penguins. Large numbers of them were swimming and calling in the vicinity of the ship. Yesterday Rodney remarked that having been almost wiped out by Joseph Hatch’s operation, it is fitting that the penguins will outlast the steam digesters. With the maritime environment, these will eventually continue to corrode then disintegrate. Some Royal Penguins were also seen in the water by the ship.
Once past Hurd Point the second engine was engaged. Our ship has two 1500h.p two-stroke engines, linked to a Swedish gear box with variable pitch propeller. We now headed for Longitude 180 and the Ross Sea. By 9.45 the ship was away from the comparatively sheltered lee of Macquarie Island and started rolling. With no programme in the lecture theatre today, few were about the ship and many took the opportunity to rest. Fortunately this afternoon the sea calmed and the bar was the focus for the usual convivial discussion.
Once again the chefs and kitchen staff did an outstanding job with the evening meal. The bird and mammal list was completed with recorded bird sightings including three penguin species, four albatross species along with six petrel species. Antarctic prions have been recorded on seven out of the eight days. As the setting sun painted the sky we called it a day. Beneath mauve-grey clouds, the sky turned gold with broad corpuscular rays and sea birds added to the Southern Ocean splendour.
Friday 15 February –Southern Ocean; en-route to the Ross Sea; Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton’s birthday (1874)
Noon position: Latitude 58o55.95’S Longitude 164o07.5’E
Thanks to a much calmer sea, we had a good rest last night and rose to a fine day with high cloud.
This morning the first Wilson’s Storm Petrel was sighted, this being an indication that soon we expect to encounter a new range of sea birds.
This morning we have been making steady progress at 12.5 knots, helped by a calmer sea and lunch was enjoyed by all. We were at this time passing over about 4200m of water. There is usually interesting discussion often of a serious nature at tables over meals, along with occasional humorous banter.
After lunch David H. gave his first lecture titled ‘Douglas Mawson: Stalwart of the Heroic-Era’ which examined Mawson’s Australasian Expedition 1911-1914 on which four New Zealanders (two on Macquarie) were included. On board a number of passengers are from Australia and there was keen interest in David’s presentation along with discussion of scientific and geographical achievements. Sir Douglas Mawson paved the way for Australia’s claim for 47% of the Antarctic continent.
Just before 3p.m a small pod of Broad-finned Pilot whales was seen some distance away and the presence of albatross indicated the whales may have been feeding. Katya’s excellent presentation ‘Cetaceans of the Southern Ocean’ was enjoyed by a full house at 4p.m when she outlined the evolution from a coastal living, hooved carnivore 35-40 million years ago, the various orders, species and main features, that will assist with identification.
Not many species were recorded at the evening meeting with this doubtless to do with the great depth of water we are passing over. This is expected to improve over the next two days, when the Convergence is crossed at an angle. This evening as we progress south, the sea is reasonably calm with a few “white horses”.
Saturday 16 February –Southern Ocean; en-route to the Ross Sea; First iceberg; Antarctic Convergence; Fin whales
Noon position: Latitude 62°46.22’S Longitude 169°29.05’E
We had a very comfortable night and rose to a calm sea, although unfortunately with 35 knot winds from the south-west on the beam forecast this evening and a low pressure area of 961m, the calm conditions may not continue. The day began with blue sky, patches of low level strato-cumulus cloud and cool air temperature of 3°C. About 8.30a.m the first iceberg was sighted at 62°S from the Bridge to Starboard with the 'first iceberg sighting' competition winner announced also. A few Black-browed Albatross were about. At 9a.m Rodney advised that we had 490 nautical miles to run to the Way-point on 180° latitude.
This morning David H. presented his second lecture entitled ‘Forerunner to the Heroic-era – from Ross to Borchgrevink 1841-1900’. This lecture began with the early voyages of D’Urville, Wilkes and Ross, with the latter discovering the Ross Sea in 1841. The first landing on the Victoria Land coast according to the log book appears to be from Captain Cooper’s sealer Levant in 1853. This was followed by a landing from the whaler Antarctic at Cape Adare in 1895. The first winter spent by an expedition on the continent took place in 1899. The same year on Adrian de Gerlache’s Belgian expedition, his ship Belgica wintered-over off the Antarctic Peninsula.
Before lunch the first part of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ based on Roland Huntford’s controversial book Scott and Amundsen (the title is from the US edition) where comparisons are made of the two explorers. Of interest was that Frank in 1966-69 served as an AB on the Hvaler a passenger/cargo vessel and that Amundsen’s wooden home is outside Fredrikstad, where most of the whaling ships were maintained.
Steve gave an excellent, beautifully illustrated lecture, entitled ‘Feathered fish or Flippered Fliers” when he outlined the evolution of penguins, including the ancestral bird ‘Waimaunu’ having been 1.4m tall and with fossil remains found in New Zealand. Penguins were originally named by Thomas Cavendish after the Welsh Pen Gwyn. Today there are 17+ species ranging from 1-38kg. The middle of the lecture was interrupted for a short time by announcement of a whale sighting. Many converged on the deck although by now the whale of an unidentified species was some distance off. Fog was over the sea beyond the stern and about this time, we were crossing at an angle the Antarctic Convergence, having come out of the southern side.
Just before 5p.m an estimated three Fin whales were seen about 100m off the bow. A few seabirds including Pintados were about and the water depth was according to the chart 260m. The sea was now up with increasing “white horses”. Most retired to the cabin and prepared for what promised to be a rough night.
Sunday 17 February –Southern Ocean; Antarctic Circle; en-route to the Ross Sea
Noon position: Latitude 66°37.49’S Longitude 170°51.82’E
As expected, the ship rock n’ rolled during the night with this increasing by early morning. Today we got up to find port holes iced over and a temperature at 8.15a.m of -5°C. Only a few were at breakfast, with many laying low in the cabin. By late morning the sky was beginning to clear as the low pressure system moved off to the east. The sea was very disturbed and flecked with “white horses”. At 11.30 we crossed the Antarctic Circle (66°34’S) although the planned celebration was postponed. At this point, the sun does not set on the longest day of summer. Occasional squalls with snow passed by, while the crane, rigging and other fixtures had an icy shroud.
At 12.30 the first Southern Fulmar was seen and by 1p.m an interesting iceberg. This had several components above the sea and was seen as it passed to Starboard to be a delicate pale blue colour.
By mid-afternoon with calming seas, quite a few sea birds were present. Light-mantled Sooty Albatross were present and more Southern Fulmar appeared. The Antarctic Petrel also made its initial appearance. The chefs once again did us proud with a beautiful meal topped off with rum truffles and lemon sorbèt. The bird and mammal discussion meeting was followed by a debate as to the species of one bird photographed. In spite of the excellent library reference books, along with the combined on-board knowledge, the matter was not resolved and the photograph was simply noted as a bird species.
With the nice evening light many took the opportunity to take photographs of icebergs and also of ice that had accumulated on the rear deck including the Zodiacs festooned with icicles. By this evening we had turned to the south-east and were making our way toward the 180°meridian. We should reach this by noon tomorrow. The wind is dropping and the ice edge is not far away.
Monday 18 February –Southern Ocean; Ross Sea; ice edge; whales
Noon position: Latitude 68°01.44’S Longitude 179°08.71’E
This morning now in clear seas, we began passing ice floes with a large belt of pack ice off to Starboard. In the gentle swell were scattered floes, ‘bergy-bits’ and the occasional ‘growler’(blocks of ice barely visible on the surface and about one metre tall). Numerous seabirds included Southern Fulmar, Cape Petrel, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and Sooty Shearwaters.
At 10a.m we assembled in the lecture room where Rodney used the whiteboard to give an interesting and useful description of where we were and what we hoped to do in the days ahead. Mention was made of the low-pressure system of 940mb with the expected arrival about 2p.m on Wednesday 20th. The ice left McMurdo Sound three days ago and at this stage it looks good for landings at Capes Royds and Evans (Scott’s Terra Nova Hut 1911-13), along with further south, Hut Point (Scott’s Discovery Hut 1902-04), Observation Hill with a memorial to Scott erected January 1913 and perhaps New Zealand’s Scott Base. Unfortunately US authorities have advised a tour of McMurdo Station is not possible because of dangerous ship unloading/loading operations. No word has yet been received concerning a visit to Scott Base but we remain hopeful of a visit. From Ross Island we will then begin our way north.
David H presented his second lecture on early exploration of the Ross Sea region entilted ‘Antarctica Unveiled - Scott’s National Antarctic (Discovery) Expedition 1901-1904’. In this lecture he outlined key events of the expedition and introduced Ernest Shackleton, the subject of his next lecture. Of interest was reference to David’s contact with Reginald Ford, steward on the ship Discovery and of Edward Wilson’s early interest in the life cycle of the Emperor penguin.
Part 2 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ was screened with a pause to spend time on the Bridge that was rewarded with 15 Humpback Whales, five Orca and a Crabeater Seal. A Humpback Whale appeared to have had the top edge of the dorsal fin chewed off and a calf had unusual white markings. For those on the Bridge there was more to come. We were treated to a superb display of 15 Fin Whales blowing. Also seen were three flocks of 50+ Sooty Shearwaters.
By now patches of blue sky were appearing, although much of the sky had extensive stratus cloud. Rodney gave a very informative lecture ‘The Antarctic Treaty System with reference to tourism’. This was very appropriate as we were now south of Latitude 60° , and under the governance of the Treaty.
The origin of the Treaty, Consultative Members along with those with observer and non-voting status, Claimants, Articles of the Treaty and duties required by such organisations as Heritage Expeditions was carefully explained.
Katya presented another very interesting lecture entitled ‘The World of Contrasts-Arctic versus Antarctica’. Many interesting comparisons including ice and permafrost, plant and animal life, human inhabitants, political differences and why people have in historic times travelled to the polar regions of the world, was artfully explained. By 5p.m after a break from the ice, we again had floes of varying shapes and sizes, along with a few icebergs passing the ship. The wind was up and there was a noticeable increase in the swell.
Tuesday 19 February – Ross Sea – en-route Ross Island and McMurdo Sound; Crossed International Date Line
Noon position: Latitude 71o33.35’S Longitude 179o56.0’E
Another comfortable night as we began heading south although we were too far away to see Scott Island. We did however cross the International Date Line into Wednesday then today at 11.45a.m today crossed back into Tuesday. By 8a.m we were passing through a thin belt of ice floes and had sighted six Crabeater Seals. Several Antarctic Petrels and the occasional Southern Fulmar were accompanying the ship.
David H. gave his presentation entitled ‘A Charismatic Hero- Shackleton’s 1907-1909 Antarctic expedition’. This was of interest as Shackleton had been a member of Scott’s Discovery expedition a few years previously. The lecture began with further discussion concerning the problem of dogs on Scott’s long journey in the 1902-03 summer, then focused on the establishment of Cape Royds and scientific accomplishments including the first ascent of Mt. Erebus and long sledging journeys to near the Geographic South Pole, attainment of the Magnetic South Pole along with a western geological expedition. The Sea Shop opened and many of us bought books, garments and other interesting items.
By noon intermittent snow was driving in from the south. The sea continued to be relatively calm with scattered “white horses” with ‘bergy-bits’ and ‘growlers’. More Crabeater Seals were reported, also a whale, possibly a Minke. Some penguins were observed enjoying a free ride on a ‘bergy-bit’ and at 1:30p.m we had a distant view of the South Korean research support ship Aaron.
At 4.30 Steve gave his presentation ‘Frozen Gardens: Antarctica’s Coolest Secrets’. This lecture focused on ice of both freshwater origins via snow over the continent, the frozen surface of the sea, the importance of the ice, along with the many forms and great beauty some of which we have already enjoyed. An indication of perhaps an early autumn appeared today in the form of some frazil or ‘grease-ice’. By early evening we were still in open water with ‘bergy-bits’ riding on a swell as if to the direction of an orchestral accompaniment.
The bird and mammal discussion was a fairly short one although now we are getting further south, we can expect to see more seals and hopefully increase the species list for sea-birds. As we turned in for the day, the sea was calm with only an occasional ice flow and we looked forward to seeing new places in the days ahead.
Wednesday 20 February – Ross Sea – en-route Ross Island and McMurdo Sound
Noon position: Latitude74°09.90’S Longitude 173°34.65’E
Last night was mostly calm however we were in for a further reminder that in Antarctica the weather can change very quickly. We have also begun to appreciate the sheer magnitude of the Ross Sea which including the Ross Ice Shelf, is a giant embayment on the coast line of continental Antarctica, along with its continental shelf.
A Snow Petrel was sighted on the water where the wind speed is lower and under such conditions, the sea surface is favoured by birds. No mammals were seen. At noon the sea had some very large swells with water freezing on the bow and deck equipment. Large patches of sea had foam and “white horses” had sheets of spray streaming off their crests. Icicles were forming along the top of the Bridge windows.
The bird meeting this evening was not a long one, with only four birds with three species – Snow Petrel (1); Antarctic Petrel (2); Wilsons Storm Petrel (1). The sun set below the horizon at 11.45.
Thursday 21 February – Views of Franklin Island; Beaufort Island; Ross Island – McMurdo Sound; Cape Royds; Cape Evans
Noon position: Latitude 77°32.6’S Longitude 166°02.5’E
Had a pleasant calm night and those who rose about 5a.m when the ship was near Franklin Island, were treated to a glorious sunrise. At 5.30 two or three Humpback Whales (and later one Minke Whale) “were enjoying what seemed like their first sun rise with blows transformed to a gold colour”.
At 7.30a.m a large tabular iceberg from the Ross Ice Shelf lay off the Port bow while to Starboard, we could make out Beaufort Island near the entrance to McMurdo Sound. Recent snow had dusted the eastern slopes since our visit last month, leaving steep volcanic ridges in relief and valleys prominent. On the southern corner is an Adelie Penguin colony. Far to the west were the vast Trans-Antarctic Mountains.
We were now in open water with occasional ‘bergy-bits’ and moving at a steady 12 knots. The air temperature was -1°C. As cloud moved off the summit we had an excellent view of Mt. Bird (1800m). Patches of rock, small volcanic cones along with a distinct shallow crater rim, were visible in the soft morning light. Ice cliffs around the northern coast also had areas of rock visible at the base. It was a beautiful morning and as Rodney said, “this is what you have come here for”. At last, a darkened sky beyond the stern indicated that we had left the Ross Sea weather system and were now enjoying better weather over McMurdo Sound. A light wind was present and the sea a little choppy. Two small green New Zealand refuge/science huts became visible as we moved along the coast from Cape Bird, and soon Mt Erebus (3974m) reared its massive summit with a cloud of steam issuing from the active crater. Along the coast features such as the Shell Glacier and Quaternary Icefall presented a totally different appearance to that seen in January because of recent snow.
Rodney called us together in the lecture room at 10.30 when he explained the landing procedure for Cape Royds and for other visits today and tomorrow.
We began the landings for Cape Royds at 1p.m. With an opening found in ‘push ice’ along the beach, we were soon assembled on Black Sand Beach, a short distance north of Cape Royds. The weather was beautiful and we began our 35 minute walk up a short snow and ice slope. Soon we were passing the site of the American penguin research camp which was all strapped up for the winter.
We walked down a track where we assembled at the edge of the ASPA (Antarctic Specially Protected Area No.157) then with 40 allowed in the area at any one time we proceeded down the gentle slope to Shackleton’s hut erected in 1908. This has been conserved by the Antarctic Heritage Trust which also looks after the artifacts within and outside the building. Only eight were allowed in the hut at any one time and of course everyone wanted to see Shackleton’s signature, his cubicle and to know where the whiskey and brandy was stored.
All of us had a marvellous time and the visit was definitely a dream come true. Some passengers gave a special toast with replica whisky from a silver flask to the memory of Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton. Near the hut were Adelie Penguins well advanced with their moulting and many of us walked about the perimeter of the ASPA. Pony Lake had a thick deposit of snow on the surface along with melt water channels. Beyond over an almost white-coloured calm sea, were the beautiful Transantarctic Mountains while behind the hut was an ice-free Backdoor Bay, then beyond lay the great bulk of Mt.Erebus.
All too soon it was time to leave and retrace our steps up the slope down which Shackleton’s motor car had been driven and ponies led 105 years ago. Back on the ship, Rodney took advantage of the good weather to hold a briefing at 8.30p.m for a landing at Cape Evans. Here Scott’s Terra Nova Hut was the place from which he and his men departed for the South Pole in 1911 and were destined never to return. The hut then became in 1915, home for members of the Ross Sea party supporting Shackleton’s 1914-16 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition.
The ‘wet landing’ was soon underway and again with only 40 allowed in the ASPA (No.155), some of us were landed near the camp and laboratory hut complex of the Antarctic Heritage Trust. A total of 12 including a guide were permitted in the hut at any one time. The visit here meant a great deal to all of us. One passenger remarked “the hut left a strong impression of the people who had been here.", and all passengers came away with their own precious, yet shared memories of the visit. The Cape Evans visit was concluded about 10p.m. Many had enjoyed a second look in the hut and also taken the opportunity to inspect other historic features including the cross on Wind Vane Hill, erected in 1916 to the memory of the three Ross Sea Party members. By 11p.m we were ready for a good rest after a great day and looking forward to tomorrow.
Friday 22 February – McMurdo Sound; Ross Island – Scott Base; Hut Point (Discovery Hut).
105 years ago today, Ernest Shackleton’s expedition was left at Cape Royds and the Nimrod departed for Lyttelton New Zealand.
Noon position: Latitude 77°49.8’S Longitude 166°21.6’E
We awoke to a cloudy, cool morning. Many of us visited the Bridge after breakfast to enjoy the beautiful new ice forming on the surface of the sea with ’pancakes’ in some places resembling lily pads with up-turned edges. On one ice floe were two Emperor Penguins, the first seen on the expedition and here the water was about 70m deep. The Russian icebreaker Vladimir Ignatyuk was in the ‘turning circle’ of Winter Quarters Bay and the cargo ship Ocean Giant was at the ice wharf. Beyond could be seen the sprawling (albeit tidy from our distance) US McMurdo Station with not a sign of life anywhere. The three Meridian wind turbines on Crater Hill had two gently turning in the breeze. At 7a.m we were at 77°51.1503’S 166°38.0388’E. On Observation Hill (230m) the memorial cross to Scott and his party could be seen. We assembled in the lecture room at 7.15 for a briefing, when the first group was told to be ready for departure at 8a.m. Although Scott Base was pleased to assist and provide transport, US authorities were unfortunately unable to allow a visit to the station. Soon after the briefing the wind had got up and the bay where we had hoped to begin our landings became filled with ice. All we could do was accept the situation and hope that perhaps this may change and that we could at least visit Hut Point.
At 10.30 David H. gave a lecture entitled ‘Fortunes and Misfortunes – Shackleton’s Ross Sea Party 1914-1917’. By noon we had moved a little further north. The ship was again surrounded by new ice with floes fragmented around the edges from colliding with one another. An Orca was sighted in a lead. Further contact was made with New Zealand’s Scott Base and at 2.30pm the first of four groups each with staff members, began to shuttle ashore. A good landing site was seen at the ice foot below the US helicopter hanger. Here we were met by two hospitable and friendly staff from New Zealand’s Scott Base and driven around the base of Observation Hill, through The Gap and down to Pram Point on which Scott Base is located at Latitude 77°51S Longitude 166°45’E. About the pressure ridges were an estimated 400-500 Weddell seals. After viewing the unusual Ngaitahu Maori carving recently unveiled by New Zealand’s Prime Minister John Key, we briefly inspected memorials to New Zealanders who have died during service with the New Zealand programme in Antarctica and were then taken into the base.
Here we met the Winter-Over Base Leader, had an opportunity to shop, view the spacious kitchen, dining and bar facilities and in the vast new Hillary Field Centre, meet four conservators from the Antarctic Heritage Trust, working on 1500 artefacts from Cape Evans. Those undertaking the specialised work have come from several countries including the UK, Holland and France. Of interest was a conservation carpenter using timber from Norway to replace pieces missing in a Colman’s flour box. Other artefacts were on display.
The afternoon slipped by very quickly and soon we were in the Globe Bar. By 8.30p.m Rodney advised conditions were suitable for a landing at Hut Point. The landing was underway by 9p.m with us alighting on the ice foot, beside a low cliff of volcanic basalt cracked by freeze-thaw action. We made our way up a low icy incline to Scott’s Discovery Expedition hut (ASPA 158), dwarfed against a backdrop of the sprawling US logistic support and science station. The container ship Ocean Giant was busy nearby. About 30 of us had the history explained by David who pointed out many features linked to the ‘heroic-era’ expeditions. For example, we saw where gravity measurements were taken in 1903-04; the window left open by Shackleton’s men in 1908; the blubber stove made by Scott’s men in 1911 and on this, a frying pan with pieces of seal blubber, cooked by the Ross Sea party members in the winter of 1916.
The hut, an important staging point for all the early sledging parties, was surprisingly warm inside although we had been advised to wrap up warmly and by doing so kept any cold out. By 10.15p.m with light snow driving in from the South and a temperature of -9oC we were back on board. It had been a great day.
Saturday 23 February – Russia’s Protectors of the Motherland Day and World Men’s Day; Ross Island and McMurdo Sound – Observation Hill; Furthest South; Cape Bird; Cape Crozier; Ross Ice Shelf
Noon position: Latitude 77°16.4’S Longitude 166°12.0’E
This morning we were woken about 5.15a.m by Rodney on the PA suggesting that anyone who wished to climb Observation Hill to get ready for departure. At 7.15a.m the ship moved briefly further south of Observation Hill to 77°51.47’S 166°38.16’E. This point can be taken as our ‘furthest south’ during the expedition. About 30 took up the challenge and were driven by Steve and Katya to the ice foot. On return to the ship, Steve said as a result of spray, they were each covered with a sheet of ice. It was very cold with a 30 knot wind at the top, which took about an hour to reach over a very icy track surface. About eight walkers reached the summit. Others in the party were about ten metres lower, when a message was received from the Captain that the ship was dragging her anchor. With the cold, strong, wind, the decision was made to retreat. Nevertheless it was a rewarding experience for all.
At 9.10 we departed from our anchorage of the last few hours and headed for Cape Bird and the Ross Ice Shelf. The morning was declared a time for rest and an opportunity to catch up with diaries, letter writing and reading. Soon we were passing the Erebus Glacier ice tongue, Dellbridge Islands, Turk’s Head visited by Griffith Taylor with his bicycle (in the Cape Evans hut) in 1911, Cape Evans, the Barne Glacier, Cape Barne and Cape Royds. By 10.45 it was bleak and snowing.
As we approached Cape Bird the sea in spite of its roughness, was very beautiful and made more interesting by the contrast of the forbidding landscape beyond. Because of the conditions there was no possibility of landing at Cape Bird where we could have seen further clusters of moulting adult Adelie Penguins. Instead we continued past the New Zealand refuge and science hut, this clearly visible on the post-glacial terrace, along with ice cliffs tinted a subtle light blue. After rounding Cape Bird the sea became much calmer. We proceeded over Lewis Bay below slopes which were the setting of the Air New Zealand Erebus tragedy and thought of those who had lost their lives.
The imposing bulk of Mt. Erebus (3974m) along with the companion peak of Mt. Terror (3230m) made for a lovely sight.
At 5.15 as we passed Cape Crozier with the site of the large Adelie Penguin colony, Rodney drew our attention to the presence of a message post placed by the crew of the ship Discovery during Scott’s first expedition in 1902. He also pointed out the Knoll beside which although not visible is the rock ‘igloo’ built during the famous ‘worst journey in the world’.
The mist cleared to give a good view of the vast Ross Ice Shelf. This is about the area of France and varies in height with the ice shelf here being about 30 metres. Rodney said that on one occasion his expedition followed the ice shelf as far as the former Bay of Whales, with the journey taking three days. A Minke Whale was seen. During the bar hour David H. became a salesman for MacKinley’s replica Shackleton 1907 whiskey. To help create an appropriate atmosphere, Katya put on music from a pipe band. Several of us including some staff, sampled the pale golden spirit with the shot glass bearing Heritage Expeditions logo as part of the cost. Proceeds will go to the Antarctic Heritage Trust for purposes of artifact conservation.
The bird and mammal list was shared for the past three days, and then most of us retired for an early night. With an improvement expected from the weather, we retraced our route west to Cape Bird where the evening will be spent and an assessment made in the morning for a possible landing. A very nice sunset appeared over the summit of Mt. Bird, with the sun’s rays reflected in the sea.
Sunday 24 February – Cape Bird; Polar plunge; Depart McMurdo Sound for Ross Sea; Outstanding whale sightings off Beaufort Island; a large tabular iceberg
Noon position: Latitude 77°07.11’S Longitude 166°18.74’E
Once again we had a very good night's rest. This morning we rose to a nice sun rise with the sky tinged pale apricot, a calm sea and with our ship lying off the New Zealand Cape Bird field station. To the north Beaufort Island looked magnificent.
Most of the penguins had left and clustered, fat, moulting Adelies, were in places along the beach or the largely vacated northern colony area. Numerous Skuas soon to leave for the north, always on the lookout for food, were wheeling overhead. From the ship one could not fail but smell the odour of guano from the now almost vacant, extensive main colony area.
After breakfast we had a briefing then at 8a.m began our landing. We greatly enjoyed the opportunity to stroll about the idyllic locality, with close views of the penguins and Skuas, along with the icecap entering the water nearby. Some of us walked around the refuge/science hut where considerable science has been undertaken since the 1960’s, or viewed the automatic weather station, along with the red box of survival equipment below the terrace. The Cape Bird landing made a special impression on to all who landed this morning. On return to the ship a small number became elite members of the ‘Polar Plungers Society’. About 20 women and men in various stages of dress braved the waters! The water temperature was 0°C and the brave souls were rewarded with hot chocolate and time in the sauna beside the lecture room.
It was a great morning and Rodney summed it up by saying “the weather played in our hand again”. Before lunch the anchor was lifted and having completed this part of our programme, we said goodbye to Ross Island.
At 4.30p.m Rodney gave us an update on what we could expect for the remainder of the trip. Heavy ice has unfortunately ruled out any possibility for Terra Nova Bay, with the ice increasing all the time due to the current moving north.
David H. gave his final presentation entitled ‘Triumph and Tragedy-Scott’s ill-fated expedition 1910-1913’. This was of interest to all present and concluded the lecture series on the ‘heroic-era’. The Globe Bar had a special feature this evening, a large ball of ice retrieved by Steve from Cape Bird.
Monday 25 February – Northward in the Ross Sea
Noon position: Latitude 73°36.35’S Longitude 171°26.06’E
We had a good rest last night and continued our voyage northward. This morning at 8.15a.m we were at 74°S 171°E, with an air temperature of -1°C. The sea was up a little and the occasional “white horse” was present.
The weather was overcast with no land visible to the west. Marieke arranged a full programme for the day with the first item Part 4 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’. An Antarctic Petrel was found near the bow and taken to the Bridge - although released the petrel returned and for some time maintained a presence in the vicinity of the bow. Other birds seen this morning included Mottled and Snow Petrels along with the South Polar Skua, which indicated we are now encountering a greater diversity of species.
Before 2p.m Rodney accompanied by the Captain had us in the lecture room for a briefing where the present situation was explained. It seemed a possible landing at Cape Adare is for the second time this summer was not possible. While yesterday there was a degree of optimism, the forecast for wind is not good with about 40-45 knots from the S-SE. A low pressure system in the outer Ross Sea was important to consider, not only the ice and exit from this, but also the fact that being further north, darkness is setting in. The Captain stated the ice was “very dangerous” along with the fact that Robertson Bay where Ridley Beach with Borchgrevink’s huts is located, has a 4-7 knot current. Both Rodney and the Captain wanted us to be aware of the situation with the result being that Cape Adare would not happen. Instead a course change would be made to 72°/180°, thus ensuring we can reach open water with the added possibility of having wind behind us. The Captain concluded his remarks by stating “this is not the Bahamas”.
By late afternoon it was still bleak outside. We saw the excellent documentary ‘The Last Ocean’ which focuses on tooth fishing along with the need for creation of a marine reserve in the Ross Sea. Rodney then gave his lecture on Pelagic Whaling in the Ross Sea during the 1920’s - 1930’s when we were astonished to see figures for the numbers of various species taken; in particular the Blue and Fin whale species. Of special interest was that Rodney when a student at Otago University, interviewed several former whalers as part of an oral history project. These men led a hard life and the information Rodney recorded is already a valuable archive of New Zealand and whaling history.
Tuesday 26 February – Northward in Ross Sea ice
Noon position: Latitude 71o37.9’S Longitude 179o38 ’E
Another very comfortable night and by breakfast, the ship was passing through ice. Light snow had fallen during the night and continued intermittently during the morning. Antarctic and Snow Petrels were about the ship and mid-morning a Minke Whale was seen along with further sightings later.
During the morning Marieke arranged for us to view the ‘Last Place on Earth’ Part 5, followed by ‘With Byrd to the Pole’.
It was not very warm about decks with the light coating of snow though by lunch time the sun was trying to break through. At 2p.m a large iceberg was barely visible. At 3p.m Steve presented his fascinating lecture ‘Golden Door of Adventure - The life and crimes of Australia’s Photographer/Explorer Frank Hurley - a candid focus on the man behind the camera’. Hurley is well known for his photography including cine film on Mawson’s 1911-14 expedition along with Shackleton’s 1914-16 expedition.
We left the beautiful ice about 4p.m when at 71°22’S. The sea now became a little choppy with a few “white horses” and Rodney recommended we made sure all was firmly stowed in our cabins. After yet another beautiful meal, the bird and mammal meeting was held with species of birds now beginning to increase. A few ‘bergy bits’ were about.
We entered heavy floes with some above the surface of the sea, a good two or three metres thick and occasionally piled up. A large rounded ice berg was passed and many of us who ventured on deck could not get over how dark it was outside. The berg astern was absorbed by the darkness along with an estimated 80 Adelie Penguins on a floe nearby. One passenger said “now I know what the berg must have looked like at night from the Titanic”. To obtain photos of floes by the ship many used flash. The ice lasted until about 10.30 when again we were over a largely ice-free inky black sea.
Wednesday 27 February – Northward to the Southern Ocean; Scott Island; Antarctic Circle re-crossed
Noon position: Latitude 67°28.73’S Longitude 179°56.29’W
With the exception of a few small pieces, most of the ice appeared to have left us in the night. This morning we rose to a cloudy day with a fairly calm sea along with only a few white caps. At 8.15 our position was 68°S and the air temperature 0°C. During the afternoon Katya gave an excellent lecture entitled ‘Adaptions of Marine Mammals’ This was followed by the film ‘Ice Bird’ which portrayed the life cycle of the Adelie Penguin. Numerous bird species including a Blue Petrel were seen today, along with a Humpback Whale. Having sighted Scott Island we had now entered the Southern Ocean. By this evening the ship was starting to move about on a rising sea.
Thursday 28 February – Southern Ocean; en-route to Campbell Island; Antarctic Convergence crossed
Noon position: Latitude 63°46’S Longitude 176°55’W
Most of us had an uncomfortable night and at 9a.m we were doing 9.5 knots into a north-easterly airflow, with around 740 NM to go to Campbell Island.
During the day we watched the final episode of ‘The last Place on Earth’, ‘Solid Water, Liquid Rock’ centered on Mt. Erebus and ‘90° South’, Herbert Ponting’s film on Scott’s ill-fated expedition 1910-1913. The ship was pretty quiet for most of the day with passengers resting in cabins or having clandestine meetings to discuss ‘The Great Enderby Review’ production planned for early next week. A pod of Long-finned Pilot Whales was sighted. They were not very close and estimates ranged from 5-20 mammals. Feeding very close to the whales was a group of albatross in the middle of which was a solitary Grey Petrel.
The swells continued to make life uncomfortable with only a few out and about. Dinner was followed by the bird and mammal discussion and we retired hoping for a better night.
Friday 1 March – Southern Ocean; en-route to Campbell Island
Noon position: Latitude 60o37’S Longitude 174o05.5’E
The ship put on a great dancing performance in the night due to a strong westerly airflow catching us on the beam and disrupting our north heading. Our chefs continue to do an outstanding job producing beautiful meals under very difficult circumstances.
The Captain then effected a course change, breakfast was split into two sittings and crew closed the 300 Level porthole covers. To make life more comfortable, we were now running 30° to Starboard with big swells four to five metres and making around 8.5 knots. The weather outside was overcast. Little happened during the day and unfortunately lectures or documentaries were not possible. A hardy core however, was checking the skies and ocean for birds and mammals and some managed photography by braving the ‘monkey bridge’.
By this evening we had 455 NM to run for Campbell Island with a little improvement forecast for the ‘albatross latitudes’. Tomorrow the wind is expected to turn to the south-west with a speed of 25-30 knots.
Saturday 2 March – Southern Ocean; en-route to Campbell Island
Noon position: Latitude 57°49’S Longitude 170°45.8’E
Very little sleep for anyone and we made the best of the day confined to cabins although a few of us played card games or prepared for ‘The Great Enderby Review’. At 8.50am Rodney advised we had made good time overnight although wind from the west was expected to ease tomorrow. Around 345 NM is left to run for Campbell Island which we expect to reach late tomorrow evening. At noon we were passing over water 4755m deep with the chart indicating 5607m and the Campbell Plateau expected this evening. Some of us on the Bridge were intrigued with sighting a New Zealand Fur Seal swimming off the bow.
Of interest was a news release advising that yesterday a three km piece calved from the Erebus Ice Tongue. This has taken place from time to time including in 1911 during a storm, the 1940’s and in 1980. Dr Tim Haskell, a New Zealand sea ice specialist, estimated each km would have five million tons of water and if five km had calved, this would supply water needs for Auckland lasting 150 years.
By this evening the wind had picked up and we had 251 NM to go.
Sunday 3 March – Southern Ocean; by-pass Campbell Island; en-route to Lyttelton
Noon position: Latitude 54°45.04’S Longitude 171°51.9’E
Another one of those nights with rocking, the usual creaks and groans, rolling and little sleep. At 8.15a.m we were at 55°S 171°E with 174 NM still to run. The ship has been going north-east since midnight on a course of 40°with a speed of 11-12 knots and with big rolling swells from the south-west. Rodney said he could not recall a north-bound trip such as this. We have had two low-pressure systems in 24 hours, with deep lows and wind of 35-40 knots, oscillating north-west to south-west to west. By noon there were a few patches of pale blue sky, areas of mist (perhaps rain) with a little sun lighting up the horizon. The sea was very confused with large swells. There were a few albatross and smaller petrels around the ship due to the proximity of Campbell Island.
At 2.30p.m we assembled in the Starboard dining room for a briefing from Rodney with the Captain present. Campbell Island was still 150 NM away and we have been traveling east with the hope of then returning north-west to the island, although this would take two days. Rodney and the Captain were unable to recall ever experiencing two low-pressure systems in one day. We have been managing 12-12.5 knots and it is important to maintain good, straight steerage so they had taken the difficult decision that because of the big swells of nine metres we had to abandon hope of a landing at Campbell Island and instead, to run for the Port Lyttelton. As Rodney said “it would be foolhardy and irresponsible to go against a swell of nine metres, with risk of damage to the ship and people. I can only recall one other occasion like this.” Contact has been made with Heritage Expeditions office in Christchurch, with staff ready to amend travel arrangements where necessary. Now we had an indication of changed arrangements, there was a chance to begin packing or rest.
After dinner Katya called us together for one of the last bird and mammal discussions and by 8.30 most people had retired for the night.
Monday 4 March – En-route to Lyttelton
Noon position: Latitude 50°21’S Longitude 175°03.6’E
It was much calmer last evening and this morning we got up to a sunny day with scattered cumulus clouds along with a good swell prevailing. At 8.15a.m we had a variety of birds now accompanying the ship. The weather map indicates a fifth low pressure system lies behind us with 55+ knots of wind in the vicinity of Campbell Island, so we were relieved that the right decision had been made to head north.
A variety of birds was with us today. Only a few of us were on the Bridge today to enjoy the birds and wild waves. A young albatross was seen to land on the water and investigate a Fur Seal. In addition to the albatross, Black-bellied Storm Petrels could be seen with their distinctive flight as they flew close to the sea for food and to evade predators such as Skuas.
Tuesday 5 March – En-route to Lyttelton; crossed 45th Parallel
Noon position: Latitude 45°53.57’S Longitude 174°03.54’E
The sea was certainly calmer and today we were greeted after 7a.m with a very nice sunrise that transformed cumulus clouds on the horizon to gold. Numerous albatross were accompanying us while to starboard was the Bounty Trench, a potential source of food. With return of life jackets from the landings, along with our insulated Antarctic jackets and settling of accounts and travel arrangements, the expedition really was drawing to an end. This afternoon a few albatross and smaller birds were about although nothing like the number seen earlier today and between 4.45-5p.m the 45th Parallel north of Oamaru was crossed.
The ‘Great Enderby Review’ was held in the bar. At 7p.m we enjoyed the final celebratory dinner. This was an outstanding meal beginning with a seafood entreè, followed by a superb roast meal with ham off the bone, roast beef and chicken, along with a selection of roasted or steamed vegetables; salads with fillet of salmon; a variety of desserts including apple crumble and pavlova and of course, a cheese board.
We had our final recap in the lecture room when Rodney thanked all of us. He said that nothing is pre-ordained; nothing is simple and the trip had been made possible by all of us. The expedition team was then introduced with Brent on behalf of the Department of Conservation, thanking us all for treating protected sites with respect. Wilson then spoke on behalf of us and said Rodney had put on a ‘brilliant show’. Katya’s fine power-point slide presentation was screened which will provide a lasting memory. So after traveling 5070 miles, our expedition was drawing to a close.
Wednesday 6 March – Lyttelton and Christchurch; Canterbury Museum. End of our expedition.
Noon position: Latitude 43o36.28’S Longitude 172o42.93’E
About midnight the Spirit of Enderby anchored almost opposite the City of Christchurch. After the closing activities of last evening, we had an excellent nights rest. This morning we were greeted with a beautiful sunrise, a small flock of Cape Petrels and two Bullers Albatross but the ‘blowing whales’ proved to be pieces of kelp and the discharge from the city’s treated sewer outfall! At 8a.m the Pilot vessel came along side and the pilot boarded for the remainder of the journey to the inner harbour of Lyttelton. We had beautiful views of the historic town which suffered considerably from earthquake damage in 2010-2011. We tied up at 9a.m and Customs had our documents checked and prepared to leave our home of the past 30 days.
We disembarked the ship and many of us went with David to the Canterbury Museum, where he was a former Curator and assisted with establishment of the then named National Antarctic Centre. The morning was warm and the city was beautiful despite what it has gone through in recent years. On the way we passed an oak tree in Ensors Road. Here is a plaque unveiled by Sir Ernest Shackleton in 1917 following rescue of the men from the Aurora, who had been left on Ross Island in 1915. We then stopped at Canterbury Museum in Rolleston Avenue. Here we met Paula Granger, the Communications Manager for the Antarctic Heritage Trust. Courtesy of Heritage Expeditions and the AHT, we were able to view the renowned Scott 1910-13 centenary exhibition, complete with a simulated lay-out of the Cape Evans hut. Many interesting artefacts included the White Ensign flown half-mast when the Terra Nova returned to Lyttelton in 1913. David then took us on a tour of the Sir Robertson Stewart Hall of Antarctic Discovery, which he helped the Museum Trust Board and fellow curatorial staff establish in 1975. Many artefacts associated with the ‘heroic-era’ expeditions mentioned by David in his lectures were explained to us. Then it was into packing and closure to a wonderful four weeks with Heritage Expeditions.
