1233: Across the Top of the World 9 Aug 2012
EXPEDITION LOG 1233
ACROSS THE TOP OF THE WORLD - WRANGEL AND HERALD ISLANDS, RUSSIAN FAR EAST
8 AUGUST 2012 – 22 AUGUST 2012
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Wednesday 8th August
Anadyr
Surprisingly calm conditions welcomed our new guests from around the world to the town of Anadyr in often windswept Anadyr Bay. Perched on the edge of the Russian Far East, eight time zones from Moscow and washed by the Bering Sea, this is the gateway to a remote and exotic region more scarcely visited than Antarctica.
For crew and expedition staff this is the most industrious day of all, resupplying, cleaning and preparing the ship, dashes from seaport to airport and return, and welcoming new guests. All of this activity takes place in an environment peppered with the inevitably lengthy negotiations required to make travel as smooth as possible in Russia.
The wildlife was immediately apparent from the ferry crossing on arrival. Elegant white Beluga Whales were feeding close to shore, some mothers with growing young, and a large number of Largha (Spotted) Seals made their presence known. We saw one catch a salmon then hold it up in the air to tease hungry seagulls, and repeatedly take it underwater at the last moment. This game carried on for a few minutes to the amusement of the human audience. Early arrivals took the chance to spend a little time in the township.
The day passed relatively smoothly and soon all the expeditioners were on board. Excited faces greeted their travelling companions and explored the ship which was to be their new home for the next two weeks. A welcome dinner and an ‘Introduction to the Staff and Ship’ briefing brought the day to a close and many retired early for a deep sleep to recover from their long day of travel.
Thursday 9th August
Preobrazheniya Bay, Chukotka
The gentle rocking motion of the ship sailing on the Bering Sea accompanied by a tasty breakfast provided by chefs Monique and Noel was our introduction to the expedition proper. After breakfast, Expedition Leader Rodney Russ gave a ‘trifecta briefing bonanza’, which included a trip overview with a word on changeable ice conditions; lifeboat theory, learning about signals and muster (gathering) stations in an emergency event; and Zodiac (rubber inflatable boats used for expedition exploring) travel and procedures.
After a scrumptious lunch, the practical matter of passport collection to ease periodic checks by Border Guards on our permits was attended to. For some it was then time for a siesta while others were delighted at the sight of Humpback Whales passing the ship.
The ships horn signalling to abandon ship brought everyone quickly to the lifeboats on the 5th level outer deck for our practical lifeboat drill which was soon completed.
At 4 pm the Zodiacs were lowered for the first of many excursions. Donning lifejackets everyone made their way to the gangway and boarded the trusty craft, custom made for expedition travel. We were welcomed by a gentle swell which persisted from the south and relatively mild temperatures. These provided ideal conditions to closely observe a spectacular set of cliffs, populated on every available ledge, nook and cranny by nesting seabirds, which plunder the rich food source in this part of the Bering Sea.
Gregarious auks were the largest bird family represented on the cliffs. This group includes comical Tufted Puffins, birds full of character, which fly with legs splayed outward and ‘eyebrow’ plumes of bright yellow feathers curled up over each side of their heads. Some spluttered along the surface, wings beating frantically, to escape our gentle approach. Moulting feathers had removed their short term ability to fly effectively creating an awkward looking auk!
By contrast, the enchanting dark black Pigeon Guillemots with white wing patches and glowing red legs and feet, calmly floating up and down in rhythm with the ocean were lovely to watch.
Common Guillemots crowded narrow ledges in rows high above the water. Their eggs have evolved in shape to minimise the danger of rolling off and in individual colorations to help returning parents identify their own pale green egg. Predatory Herring Gulls had occupied prime nesting and hunting sites long before other species had arrived. Having selected the tiniest of ledges, they use grass and earth nests to avoid egg loss to the drop below. Glaucous Gulls took up other vantage points. We were also lucky enough to see a Peregrine Falcon standing watch over his kingdom below.
A seemingly endless parade of life presented itself – birds leaving the cliffs to feed and birds returning, making a thrilling and engaging spectacle. A large group of miniature Harlequin Ducks then stole the show with timid movements in formation around the waterline, showing their beautiful dark plumage with white colorations and shy, watchful ways.
The fluted rock formations provided a majestic and craggy backdrop to the seabird city. Rising high above the sea, seabed sedimentary rocks uplifted to show a myriad of different colours and occasional vital volcanic intrusions in a blaze of stark blacks and browns. Back on board we relaxed over drinks, an informal recap of the day’s highlights and a sketch plan for the morning. Then it was time for dinner and a satisfied sleep.
Friday 10th August
Calm waters greeted our arrival at anchor off Yttrgran Island. Breakfast was followed by a series of briefings in which Rodney spoke about plans for the day, Katya gave an overview of the cultural significance of our first landing and Grigory gave us information about his specialist subject, Grey Whales.
We were soon boarding the Zodiacs for the short trip ashore to begin exploring. Previous landings here had offered sightings of Wolverine and brown bear, so while our expedition team kept one eye on the surrounds, guests relaxed and enjoyed freedom to explore this mysterious setting. Our first sight was of the rib bones of multiple Bowhead Whales standing upright in the earth, creating a promenade of several hundred metres with the tundra hills as a backdrop. We had arrived at ‘Whalebone Alley’, once a central shrine for many nearby island villages. The bones were possibly used as a processional route used by shamanic sea-hunting peoples during ritual and ceremony as early as the 14th Century. Only re-discovered in 1976, this area is one of the most significant ceremonial sites in the Arctic.
Natural stones on site have been arranged to create about 150 meat storage pits for harvested walrus and whale meat, which were possibly also used for ceremonial burnings. Around 60 Bowhead Whale skulls (each two tonnes in weight) also decorated the grassy foreshore in symbolic groups of two or four. The work involved in their placement another indication of the importance of this place to its worshippers. Everyone found something to intrigue or cause reflection, including a hardy dozen that took on the challenge to climb a nearby rocky outcrop for a birds eye view.
Grey Whales frequent shallow coastal feeding grounds along much of the Russian East coast. We went in search of their characteristic heart shaped blows; five Zodiacs full of watchful eyes scanned the horizon for a sign. These creatures are legally hunted in sustainable numbers by native Chukotkan peoples who follow centuries of tradition. We came with a gentler agenda, merely wanting to catch a glimpse of these graceful sea giants in their natural world. Patience was rewarded with some fairly close views, the whales busy feeding below and surfacing for air regularly as we watched. Those close enough to smell the out breath were gifted a good sniff of their seafood diet! Delicious!
An easy cruise in midday sun brought us by island sea cliffs full of feathered activity and nesting. Perched on ledges were various species of guillemots, murres, Pelagic Cormorants, kittiwakes and gulls (on the nest and wing). At one point a whole masquerade of Harlequin Ducks paddled past. A great lunch was followed by a walk through the tundra with options to soak in deliciously relaxing natural thermal pools, enjoy summer wild flowers or simply wander at leisure and admire stark, beautiful mountain scenery, sculpted by the glacial and volcanic past.
Some of us met with a very interesting Chukchi family living in their summer dwelling beside a lagoon rich with salmon. The Grandmother genuinely enjoyed our company and our interest in her simple life. She spoke freely to our guides Katya and Grisha while kneading locally grown watercress, which stays preserved in its own juices for the winter and provides basic salad nutrients, high in Vitamin C. She explained that this was used in a variety of ways including flavouring seal meat. Her children helped with the work and the grandchildren sat watchfully on a brown bear skin rug in her reindeer skin tent while above them hung drying Red Fox and Grey Wolf skins. The tent which would be used as a nomadic shelter further south was used as a frame for drying Largha Seal skins on the outside.
It had been a really satisfying and full day at a relaxed pace and we discussed our experiences of whales, bird cliffs, an Arctic shamanistic site, thermal hot pools and meeting some locals over dinner.
Saturday 11th August
Cape Dezhnev and Uelen Village
Overcast foggy skies created an appropriate setting on our approach to Cape Dezhnev. This was once a Cold War military watch station located on the most easterly point of Eurasia. The Cape is named after Semyon Dezhnev, a Cossack and hired protector for one of the most important Arctic Expeditions ever undertaken. In 1648 the rich Russian fur trade prompted Moscow to act on rumours of untold wealth of fur bearing animals and walrus and mammoth ivory in the Anadyr region of the Russian Far East. Wealthy Moscow merchants put together a fleet of seven small sailing ships to discover a sea route across the top of Russia seeking these treasures. By the time of their arrival in Chukotka, five ships had already been wrecked when Dezhnev and a prominent merchant guided the two surviving boats through the Bering Strait and the Pacific Ocean. A further wreck left Dezhnev alone, overwintering twice inland of Anadyr, before a remarkable unscheduled rendezvous with another independent expedition that had arrived overland from Moscow. Dezhnev eventually retired in Moscow, on a pension granted in honour of his discoveries.
Our own Expedition Leader, Rodney, had prepared us for potentially tricky conditions (thankfully less so than Dezhnev faced), letting us know the Cape’s open position was exposed to swells from all directions. In a pre-landing briefing, Katya deepened our understanding of the significance of the old stone dwellings used for at least 2,000 years by native Chukotkan peoples. She showed a short slideshow of older photos taken here and shared her own personal experiences and understanding of this atmospheric place. She explained how marine mammal dependant peoples lived here overlooking the migration routes of their quarry from cliff-top housing made from stone bases with whale bone frameworks clad with skins.
The surf was friendly and conditions satisfactory to attempt a landing in this notoriously challenging area. As we prepared for disembarkation, the call went out that a pod of Killer Whales were close to the ship and most of the group enjoyed great views of a group of five whales including one mature male with a huge dorsal fin. What an exciting start to the day!
Guided by Least Auklets the Zodiacs approached the site through the mist. In addition to the Eskimo village, there lay a small huddle of dishevelled abandoned patrol buildings decaying on a fast eroding shoreline amidst monuments honouring fallen Russian sailors, Dezhnev and neighbouring (across the Bering Strait) Inuit Eskimo peoples. We explored the sad remains of the village which inhabitants were forced to abandon in the late 1950’s due to Cold War anxieties in Moscow over fraternisation with Americans across the strait. In remembrance, I saw someone reach down, touch a whale-bone and say “to the spirit of the whales.” I was not surprised when later that same person had a Grey Whale surface right next to their Zodiac during the return to the ship.
Soon after lunch we transferred to the village of Uelen, a tiny Chukchi outpost of scattered buildings, the most remote settlement in north-east Russia and home to 800 people. The village, which has survived with a marine mammal harvesting culture for at least 2,000 years, welcomed us with many children on shore plainly delighted at our visit. We were lucky to have arrived on a festival day, which was happening right on the stony landing beach. Families, the elderly, children and foreign Ukraine builders all joined in the festivities. Games included lifting a 25 kilo weight one-handed above ones head as many times as possible and a Tug-of-War. We were invited to join in and put forward a team of men and a team of women.
It was all great fun and though we faced some serious opposition of both nuggetty male villagers (accustomed to hauling marine mammals about) and equally tough women (accustomed to hauling their men about?) we emerged triumphant on both counts. The Spirit of Enderby women won 3rd place and the men were placed 5th. Some evocative dancing then gave way to a wrestling contest and our hero ‘Grisha the Great’ would soon add ‘champion wrestler’ to his staff biography!
Men were asked to fight topless, and Grisha complied, women visibly bracing as he revealed his muscular torso. After making light work of the local ‘whale haulers’, he met his nemesis in the final, a Ukraine contractor about twice his size. But it’s the size of the fight in the man, not the size of the man in the fight and Grisha valiantly held his own, finally achieving a 2nd placing only due to the Ukrainian’s obvious edge in experience.
We tore ourselves away from the festivities to visit the local museum and the ivory workshop. A breathtaking display of finely carved ivory was on show and a few pieces were snapped up by the willing. We were treated to a spirited send-off and moving scenes on shore as the children waved farewell. It had been a wonderful day mingling with the colourful villagers as we moved ever closer to Wrangel Island.
Sunday 12th August
Kolyuchin Island
During the night the Spirit of Enderby moved through occasional ice on course to Kolyuchin Island and before breakfast the unusual movement woke many. Some bleary eyed but excited early risers appeared on deck to photograph the scene as the ship slowed to navigate the icy maze. Views of Ringed and Bearded Seals were the reward to those willing to brave the hour and the chill outside.
After breakfast we arrived within a few kilometres of Kolyuchin Island, but our approach was foiled by impenetrable fog and very heavy ice conditions. With no choice but to sit tight and wait for the weather to clear, some of the group sat and peered into the mist on the lookout for Polar Bears which thrive in these conditions. Others caught up with sorting photos, or fired off emails to jealous family and friends, while others took the opportunity to simply relax with a good book and a cup of tea.
The conditions did not relent around Kolyuchin, so it was time to move on. If all goes well we may have a further opportunity to visit on the return leg. After lunch Katya gave an ‘Introduction to Wrangel Island’ giving us an excellent and personal detailed introduction to the wonderful world of Wrangel Island. Rodney then followed with ‘The Russification of Siberia’ illuminating the chequered conquering of Russia’s remote east, in a broad tapestry from Ivan ‘the Terrible’ to fur traders to the assimilation of peaceful native cultures.
It had been a good day to recharge and prepare for all the activity that lay ahead.
Monday 13th August
At Sea
We awoke this morning to very heavy ice conditions. The Captain had had a fairly sleepless night keeping personal watch on the Bridge, taking responsibility to find best passage and safely make the best speed. Many of us stayed away from the Bridge to give the crew space to communicate and concentrate, so we checked out the view from the front deck.
Breakfast was later than usual at 8.15am and it had been nice to have a sleep-in. Our onboard botanical expert Alex turned up the tempo with his lecture on ‘Surviving Climactic Extremes – Arctic Adaptations in Plants’. His presentation of rapturous photos drew a full house as he whetted our appetites for the botanising to come on Wrangel Island.
Steve then prepared us for close encounters with the Arctic’s lovable, moustached, toothy marine mammal with a presentation entitled ‘Walrus – Tooth Walker’. A lazy late lunch was shortened with a call on the P.A. system that two Polar Bears had been sighted off the starboard bow, and everyone rushed out on deck leaving the dinner plates for our return. We were treated to the wonderful sight of a mother Polar Bear shepherding her cub behind ice ridges, following her instincts to protect her young from the strange looking blue and white ‘iceberg’ the Spirit of Enderby. It was a very exciting first sighting of Polar Bears on the trip!
After the buzz had settled, Katya offered us her poignant presentation on ‘the future of Polar Bears in a changing world’. This was a far reaching and insightful look at many aspects of the Polar Bears world, from the personal viewpoint of growing up with her father as Russia’s eminent Polar Bear expert. No amount of research can replace her personal experiences in telling such a great story.
We finally cleared the most challenging ice fields, enabling faster movement toward our destination and an E.T.A of 3 or 4am off the coast of Wrangel. This gave the ‘Overlanders’ a chance to get excited and meet to make plans for tomorrow. These hardy folks had pre-booked to join Wrangel Rangers on a cross-country 4WD foray into the heart of the island, beyond the mountains that fringe the coast.
The second heaviest ice conditions in the 40 years records have been kept, meant there was little chance to sail around the island for a rendezvous on the Northern side, so plans were adjusted to provide a circular route of the interior, returning the group to the original drop-off point. Everyone was still enthusiastic about such a rare opportunity to visit the untouched centre of this beautiful place. They would overnight in a field study hut near the largest Snow Goose population six hours away from the coast. They would be accompanied by Wrangel Rangers and Katya.
Social time in the bar was upbeat with relief of arriving through so much ice and in expectancy of our visits to this mysterious island. After another delicious dinner served up by Monique and Noel in the galley we relaxed in the bar before dispersing to our cabins.
Tuesday 14th August
Wrangel Island
Early risers woke to the first clear sight of Wrangel Island. Shallow depths kept us anchored well off shore and as fog moved in at out, different views unfolded of both shoreline buildings and inland hills, carpeted in rusty coloured tundra. Although we had successfully navigated the ice belts between here and Siberia, the last barrier to landing had still to be crossed, and a low pressure system had built up, sending stiff easterly winds and swells our way.
After breakfast, we were all keen to step ashore after the days at sea required to reach this Arctic outpost. The Zodiac transfer to shore was fairly wet, once safely ashore we split into groups according to interest. Alex took his troupe to the flower hot spots and Grisha led a long walk towards the hills. Both groups enjoyed exploring the various signs of wildlife until a sleeping female Polar Bear awoke in the tundra just 50 metres from the group. The group was delighted when another female also appeared briefly before shuffling off to escape the sight of our brightly coloured group of interlopers. A third group spent a more relaxing time exploring the various buildings and skeletons brought in from surrounding tundra. They commented on the surprisingly heavy walrus skulls and the even more robust Musk Ox skulls with their heavy-duty battle horned adornments. It was also very special to see the Mammoth tusks lying exposed on the river beds.
Meanwhile ‘Overlanders’ equipped with gear and food for two days away, said their goodbyes and took off with the rangers for far-flung places. They had stopped en route to check out the Polar Bears with us.
Back on board we sailed north into clearer conditions. In the early evening we encountered some of the most magnificent scenery we had seen on the voyage so far. The soft blue water sprinkled with ice was offset by all the shades of brown colouring the foreshore. A backdrop of mountains loomed high overhead while processions of seabirds commuted in and out of cliff-edge nests. Then a Polar Bear appeared centre stage traversing the tundra to complete the picture.
Rodney, never hesitating to seize the moment, announced from the Bridge that we would drop Zodiacs, and take a sunset cruise which was met with much excitement by all. These breaks in the weather must be grasped at every opportunity when travelling in the Arctic and Antarctic.
After enjoying guillemots, gulls, cormorants and puffins, some of us switched motors off at the base of the cliffs to take in the full splendour of this wild place and hear the uninterrupted bird sounds. Amazing! We watched the citrus orange sunset splashing the ocean with its golden glow as we returned replete to the ship where dessert and a satisfied sleep awaited us.
Wednesday 15th August
Wrangel Island
We awoke to peaceful conditions as the low pressure system and ice forced us south again. After breakfast, we were privileged to see the self-made documentary of Nikita Ovsyanikov, Russia’s foremost Polar Bear expert, who had been based on Wrangel Island. Personal, informative and surprisingly intimate experiences of close encounters with Polar Bears kept all eyes keenly focussed on his observations of natures Arctic King. We were fascinated by his insightful commentary on their behaviour, hard won by extreme exposure to elements, danger and isolation.
Cape Blossom was our next landing site. It was good to stretch the legs again and take a look around what is quite an iconic location for Wrangel Island research. This is the site of Nikita’s hut which we had seen featured in the documentary. Thick fog made us wary of venturing too far inland as the ever present danger of Polar Bears needs careful consideration in such poor visibility. Once ashore however, the fog lifted enough for Wrangel scientist Irina, Grisha and Alex to take groups out into the tundra while others chose to stroll the shoreline and observe a flock of Snow Geese.
After a refreshing session ashore the weather cooled and the fog returned indicating it was time to return to the ship for lunch. Twice in 12 hours we had been lucky with a favourable weather window.
Following lunch, there was a meeting of the second ‘Overland’ group, who would take the places of those returning with the first group tonight. As the afternoon wore on we were again enveloped in fog and the ship slowed to navigate safely. We were grateful to have such an experienced Captain and crew in these tricky icy waters. The mesmerising maze and distinctive raw sound of year old ice making way for the ship kept many entertained. The fog was interspersed with occasional sunny spells when we caught tantalising glimpses of Wrangel Island.
Evening arrived and the rendezvous planned to welcome back the first group of ‘Overlanders’ went smoothly. The accompanying Rangers were delighted to accept an invitation to join us for dinner before escorting the second group of ‘Overlanders’ off for their own adventure. All returning travellers looked fresh and excited from sights and experiences inland.
After dinner the fog bank lifted and we saw the raw and wild scene of rustic tundra, ramshackle buildings and stripes of blue and pink lighting up the sky in the last gasp of sunset. It had been another day of new experiences in the true spirit of expedition and exploratory travel in the Arctic.
Thursday 16th August
Wrangel Island
Today it was Rodney, not Marieke who made the wake-up call. While the Cruise Director was still sleeping, Rodney was one step ahead, sighting a Polar Bear off the bow of the ship. Most of us leapt out of bed, grabbed something warm, binoculars, cameras, and made for the nearest exit. A dozen or so made it to the bridge. A beautiful big male bear looked up at us, sniffed the air to see exactly what we were, stood upright to get a better view of us, and then slowly walked away, giving us a clear side-on view. What a great start to our day!
During breakfast more bears were sighted, with a count of nine before lunch. The last one was also a large male. He looked very healthy and was pacing about confidently on his solitary icefloe surrounded by water. He sniffed the air and considered retreating to the safety of the water before deciding to stand his ground and give us fantastic close range photo opportunities.
After lunch, we traced the east coast of Wrangel to the north on the lookout for walrus and more Polar Bears. Occasional sightings of bears and sensational wild east coast scenery captured our attention along the way until we anchored in the bay where the saga of the Karluk disaster took place. This intriguing drama was played out as a result of a Canadian High Arctic expedition led by the infamous Vilhjalmur Stefansson.
Stefansson naively (or manipulatively) claimed the Arctic a wonderland of plenty, seeing Inuit cultures thrive there he sold an Arctic Expedition as an uncomplicated venture. Captain Bartlett of North Pole expedition experience (and perhaps the finest available at that time) however had serious doubts about the ship and the organisation of the expedition. By September a motley mix of sailors, scientists and Inuit hunters were stuck fast in the ice. Stefansson announced he was walking to shore to hunt Caribou and disappeared with personnel and the best dogs. He was not seen again by the crew.
The ship was carried a while by the icefloes, but finally sank with Captain Bartlett the last to abandon ship – Chopin’s ‘Funeral March’ playing on his gramophone as it disappeared from view. From here parties were sent out to Herald and Wrangel Islands, reaching Wrangel on 12th March 1914 after a gruelling 20 day trek. With spring fast approaching, they headed south and after 45 days of picking their way across the worst ice Bartlett had ever encountered, they had travelled 320 kilometres to make it to the Siberian Coast.
With replenished supplies, they travelled another 650 kilometres overland to the shore of the Bering Sea and found a ship bound for Alaska. To keep a short story long, pocket knife gangrene surgery, hacksaw blade amputations, murder and starvation beset the survivors left on Wrangel Island. Captain Bartlett finally met the few remaining survivors, who had been picked up by a Russian trading vessel.
Stefansson discovered some Canadian Arctic islands during the Karluk survivor’s hardships, and the First World War provided a convenient distraction from his part in the disastrous affair. He lived out his days in reasonable celebrity but only today is the truth being told – that Bartlett was the real hero.
After a Zodiac cruise through caves and along the shoreline, we took a short walk to explore the site of a survivor’s camp, and then returned to enjoy the comfort of our sturdy ship.
Friday 17th August
Wrangel Island
We woke early today for one of Rodney’s optional ‘this is a place I’ve always wanted to take a closer look at’ specials. And special it was. The discovery of the unknown is what drives us to go expedition voyaging! Intrepid adventurers wanting to make the most of each opportunity came ashore in calm seas to Clark Creek to explore with us. Alex took off with the budding botanists, Grisha with the fitter crowd and the rest relaxed near the ice draped sea cliffs.
Common Eider females, various reindeer antlers and larger bones were seen around the shallow river mouth. Wrangel Island Rangers accompanied Grisha along the dry side of the exposed riverbed looking for revealed mammoth tusk, which they find almost every day on Wrangel.
Everyone enjoyed the subtle colours and textures of the tundra fabric, and when the clouds lifted distant views of the interior mountain ranges, shadowed in assorted washes of greens and browns were revealed. Rounding the river bend we came upon the arresting sight of a couple of hundred Snow Geese with young amongst them relaxing in soft morning light. These birds were fattening up on tundra blooms in preparation for the migration south. Some of them took to the air giving us amazing photos of white geese silhouetted against the rusty tundra hillsides.
Back on board a very welcome hot breakfast was devoured by all as the anchor was lifted and we set sail for Rogers Bay, a shamble of what was once a small village complete with school, shop and a ‘main street’. Alex led a group of ‘plant people’ to discover the botanical treasures of the area while Grisha and Irina walked with the rest to take a look at the life and history of a place inhabited by man for less than 100 years. Village windows had boards that could be slid into their frames with huge 10 centimetres nails pointing outwards to discourage curious bears from wanting to join dinner parties inside. We noted a new weather station, some memorials and the scattered bones of Mammoth, walrus, reindeer, Musk Ox, Polar Bears and whales resting by a Ranger’s house. A storage shed housed many of the village’s proudest possessions including a new Zodiac, snowmobiles (though many of them were more vintage than modern) and an old ‘bulletproof’ Snow/Cross country 4WD that must be stored for sentimentality rather than any practical use.
Later in the afternoon, we slipped through ice fields to Blossom Bay where we picked up the second group of very happy ‘Overlanders’ who had arrived on a stony spit to shorten the longish Zodiac ride in shallow waters. It was great to see the weary but smiling faces and have the whole team back together on board.
During the evening a study of the latest ice maps sent through from New Zealand, showed that a southerly route towards the Siberian mainland would be best option in what may be a tricky journey back to the Bering Sea.
Saturday 18th August
Kolyuchin Island
Today we enjoyed a welcome sleep-in, which was particularly appreciated by the ‘Overlanders’. Following a leisurely breakfast we enjoyed a series of lectures presented on a wide variety of themes by our expedition team.
Alex kicked things off in his engaging, informative, easy-going style, with ‘Botany 101 – An Introduction to Arctic flora’ which gave a colourful overview of the plants and flowers we had seen on this voyage. After a morning tea ‘Grisha the Great’ (the Chukotkan reserve wrestling champ) showed he had brains to go with the brawn, and delivered a scientific lecture on Grey Whales, enlightening the audience with his in-depth knowledge.
Steve’s ‘Great Adaptations – Arctic Survivors’, an eye-opening romp through the surprisingly unique ways creatures great and small manage life in this northern extreme was the subject after lunch.
We arrived at Kolyuchin Island earlier than expected, as the Captain and crew found the going much easier on the southbound journey than anticipated. A staff scout boat went ashore to assess safety regarding Polar Bears, and once they had given the OK, guests were transferred by Zodiac to a gravelly beach in close reach of cliffs of nesting auks (Brunnich’s Guillemots and Horned Puffins), Pelagic Cormorants and various gulls. Here abandoned research station buildings littered a grassy plateau. We all thoroughly enjoyed the excursion in cool conditions, especially being so close to these nesting birds, privy to their view of the world from the cliff tops.
Back on board it was time for social hour in the bar, then yet another great dinner and more socialising afterwards – a good night was had by all.
Sunday 19th August
Kolyuchin Inlet
We made an early start today for Kolyuchin Inlet, where the fresh breeze whipped up the sea and ice washed lazily against the shore. Despite the brisk conditions most of us grabbed another chance to go ashore and explore. This site was littered with the remains of tidal debris and the signs of human settlement – weathered posts, fuel drums and a monument to those who came and never returned home. Nature-wise, particularly endearing Loon chicks brightened our morning.
We lunched back on board while heading south, hoping to visit the Diomedes, sometimes referred to as ‘yesterday’ and ‘tomorrow’ islands, with Big Diomede and Little Diomede lying either side of the International Date Line. The afternoon entertainment began with a documentary on Polar Bears, featuring hidden camera footage of day to day life over the seasons. It was an intriguing, informative and fun look at the antics of bears in the wild, unaware of our ‘eye’ on them.
Later in the afternoon Katya presented a fascinating lecture on the ‘Indigenous Peoples of Chukotka’, including period photographs, origins of different cultures and the effects of modern assimilation on the original peoples. Meanwhile those on the Bridge spotted two Minke Whales, which appeared in a short cameo in the distance.
Social hour in the bar included a recap of the past few days and a preview of what was to come including the likelihood of seeing walrus (which drew cheers from the crowd) and 30 knot winds expected at sea tomorrow (which drew sighs all round). Most retired early to recharge before the ‘motion on the ocean’ which would invariably greet us as we journeyed south into the Bering Strait.
Monday 20th August
Yttygran Island
A healthy swell rocked some of us awake and then asleep again as we gently slipped south on rendezvous to Big Diomede. Those staying awake witnessed fair sized waves in the Bering Strait as we slowed to see ‘today’ and ‘tomorrow’ islands, peering through the ‘mists of time’, as it were.
More than half of our party joined Expedition Leader Rodney on the bridge at 5.30am to see this incongruous time warp – standing in Russia looking over to America and backward 20 hours. Rodney asked the officers to steer the ship closer so we could make out the Border Guard buildings on the Russian (Eastern) Island and reminded us that only two miles separated Russia and the U.S.A. at this point.
Early birds also watched squadrons of auks patrolling the ocean surface, occasional Short-tailed Shearwaters, Horned Puffins and Pelagic Cormorants also winging their way past our bridge observation window. Then it was time to head south toward Yttygran Island, where we hoped to find some more walrus and take a late afternoon tundra excursion.
A viewing of an Arctic documentary on Siberia and some of its indigenous descendants and their modern day triumphs and challenges was well received by the group after a late breakfast. Grisha followed up his Grey Whale lecture with ‘Marine Mammals and Sound’, in which he elaborated on different communication and receiving abilities and behaviour – we listened, learned and enjoyed.
Lunch was followed by our resident botanist Alex demonstrating his extensive knowledge in ‘A Longitudinal Transect of Russian Vegetation’ where he gave an overview of the wide diversity of habitats for plants in the region.
We arrived at a known walrus haul out but had no luck finding any this time, but did see some Grey Whales as we moved on south to Yttrgran to take a last nostalgic ‘tiptoe through the tundra’. We would push dinner back a bit to allow plenty of time ashore.
Beautiful last light streamed across the nameless bay on Yttrgran Island. A few Grey Whales quietly feeding in the shallows, their heart shaped blows announcing their presence. On shore we listened to the comic sound of tweeting Pikas (imagine a cross between a rabbit and a mouse) as they communicated our presence to each other from the safety of their burrows. The sensational Woolly Bear Caterpillars (the world’s oldest!) were out in force, feasting on the Arctic willow leaves that would see them through another one of their 13 winter seasons of frozen dormancy.
Alex introduced people to the botanical delights of this area and had them prostrated on the ground taking photographs of the delicate tiny plants which survive against all odds in this harsh climate. We all admired the luscious rusty brown palette of this peaceful bay, inhabited by just a few curious spotted Largha Seals which popped up to see what we were. All too soon it was time to depart this lovely place and we reluctantly made our departure.
Heading south with anchor uplifted we dined contentedly, these last days giving us time to reflect on what we had done, seen and experienced, the new friends made and our eyes opened to the truly magical world that lies beyond the Arctic circle. We were nearing the end of our expedition.
Tuesday 21st August
At Sea
Calm seas greeted our last day on board together as Katya presented a comparison of Arctic and Antarctic in her ‘World of Contrasts’ lecture this morning. She highlighted the differences and similarities between the Polar Regions, illustrated with sparkling images to enjoy.
Before lunch Rodney presented ‘Saving the Spoon-billed Sandpiper’, an often moving and informative account of Heritage Expeditions’ involvement in a project designed to help preserve the last remaining of these lovable birds, which are in such a vulnerable state of existence. At the last lunch engagement for us all, Noel and Monique turned the taste temptations up another notch in appreciation of the excellent feedback they were receiving from grateful guests.
Afternoon provided the chance to tie up final accounts and pre-order drinks for our final night together before we all assembled to enjoy a slideshow of the voyage which captured many of the fun and special moments we had shared along the way. It was a fitting and poignant walk down memory lane for everyone.
After the viewing our Expedition Leader Rodney addressed the group and invited expedition team members to do the same. Many expressed genuine gratitude to the participants for being such a gregarious, fun, warm and participatory group of guests for the shared journey over the past two weeks. A briefing of departure procedures was followed by a final banquet dinner.
Wednesday 22nd August
Anadyr
We arrived here in Russia’s Far East with enquiring minds, seeking uncommon experiences where creatures and landscapes are the stuff of legends.
White whales, seals with teeth a metre long, white ‘ice’ bears, mammoth tusks and flying penguins really do have to be seen to be believed. Paint them on a movie set backdrop of Salvador Dali rustic contours and frozen icescapes that shape this northern world and it is immediately apparent that there is no other place like this on earth.
Into this picture bring the descendants of people who have eked out a meagre existence for thousands of years in tune with nature. Humans who survive in abodes and craft of bone and skin, who dance before you with the spirit that has sustained them through the ages.
Somehow our journey to this place had crossed over from the ‘real’ life at home to a world previously known only in our imagination. It was now time to cross back, but we would do it with full hearts and so many stories to tell.
