1268: Birding Down Under 21 Dec 2012
Voyage Log 1268
Birding Down Under:
The Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand and Australia
21 December 2012-8 January 2013
Click here for Species List
Day 1. Invercargill/Bluff
We all arrived safely from our varied points of origin and gathered for an enjoyable buffet dinner at the Kelvin Hotel to meet our fellow travellers and have an introduction to the trip from Expedition Leader, Rodney. We all agreed it was a bonus that the world didn't end on this day, as the Mayan calendar had suggested and some around the world believed might happen.
Day 2. At Sea
We were free to wander around Invercargill this morning, with the 'official option' being a visit to the fine Southland Museum where, among other things, we got to touch the legendary Tuatara and learn of its remarkable natural history. After lunch we boarded the bus for the short drive to the harbour in Bluff, where we embarked the Spirit of Enderby, our home for the next 17 days. After time to settle into our cabins and explore the ship we had an introductory briefing and departed about 4pm to head out into the Southern Ocean. The meaning of 'harbour' was graphically apparent as we headed from the flat water of Bluff into the howling winds and rolling seas of Foveaux Strait, which separates the South Island from Stewart Island. Birding in the late afternoon was non-stop action before breaking for dinner and a well-earned sleep. Our first albatross (a White-capped aka Auckland Shy) was spotted as we left the harbour. After that birds were constantly in view, with at least five species of albatross (including our first Royals and Wandering), and many thousands of Sooty Shearwaters and Fairy Prions, along with good numbers of Cook's Petrels, a few giant petrels and Mottled Petrels, and the dapper little Pintado (or Cape) Petrels.
46o35'S 168o20'E (Bluff) ending 8pm at 47o18'S 168o17'E; sea-surface temperature (SST) 15oC. Variably cloudy, sunny, 20-25 knot NW wind and cross swells.
Day 3. The Snares
After leaving the lee of Stewart Island in the early hours we got to experience the notorious 'Southern Ocean Roll' which continued through the day and made for a challenging Zodiac cruise at The Snares, where we arrived in early morning. On our second attempt the Zodiacs were loaded and we were privileged to enjoy an up-close experience with the remarkable flora and fauna of our first island outpost.
The highlight was simply being among masses of the endemic Snares Crested Penguins, with groups standing around on the rocks and amid the lush kelp as well as swimming all around and right up to our Zodiacs. The otherworldly forest, growing on burrow-riddled soil (homes to millions of shearwaters and petrels) held the endemic all-black tomtit and the somewhat elusive fernbird. Watching numerous Southern Buller's Albatross, families of Antarctic Terns, scavenging skuas, lounging Fur Seals and a few Hooker's Sea Lions was also a great experience. Remarkably we also encountered three vagrant seabirds - a Little Penguin, a stunning Chatham Albatross, and a Great Cormorant (aka Black Shag) that seemed to think it was a penguin. Back out to sea and heading south, most people took the chance to relax, while the birders were rewarded with increasing numbers of Mottled Petrels and Black-bellied Storm-Petrels, among numerous other species.
48o00'S 166o40'E (Snares) ending 8pm at 48o58'S 166o44'E; SST 14-11oC. Mostly cloudy morning, becoming variably cloudy, sunny p.m., 20-30 knot NW wind and cross swells.
Day 4. Auckland Islands – Enderby Island
A grey misty dawn found us rounding the low bluffs of Enderby Island in the north of the Auckland group. After breakfast, a briefing and a slide show on the history (natural and 'unnatural') of the Auckland Islands we prepared for what would be a memorable day ashore. Enderby Island, for which the Spirit of Enderby is aptly named, is a great example of an island that is reverting to its natural state thanks to the eradication of non-native mammals. Hence the birds are remarkably confiding, from ubiquitous pipits at one's feet and flightless Auckland Island Flightless Teal to brilliant Red-crowned Parakeets and handsome Double-banded Dotterels running around at very close range. Added to the mix are the spectacular, eye-level courtship flights by Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, groups of Auckland Shags harvesting the lush grass for their nests and cryptic Subantarctic Snipe scurrying underfoot. A scattering of Yellow-eyed Penguins and the spectacle of a colony of Hooker's Sea Lions on the beach (with boisterous sub-adult males scattered around the island) all added to the wildlife encounters and photo opportunities for the day. Then there were the wonderful carpets of flowering megaherbs, nesting Southern Royal Albatrosses, a brief but vivid fly-by from a New Zealand Falcon, the prehistoric looking Rata forest and a vagrant Australian Shelduck. Having a full day to explore the island was indeed a treat, and our individual memories of the sights, sounds, and smells of this Christmas Eve will be indelibly etched in our memories. A small contingent, entertained by lively guitar music provided by Tracey, stayed up to see in Christmas Day - and what a day it would be.
50o30'S 166o16'E (Enderby); SST 11oC. Overcast and misty, brightening slightly before some afternoon rain; winds generally light and overall mild.
Day 5. Auckland Islands – Carnley Harbour
The yacht Oceanopolis being sailed by a Frenchman in a solo around the world race which we found on our arrival off Enderby had pulled away in the early hours of the morning. We hoped he made it back into the race. Overnight we moved south to Carnley Harbor, where a low cloud ceiling and strong north-east winds (gusting to 50+ knots and whipping the water into a swirling white frenzy) limited our choices for landings. We ship-cruised up the north arm of the harbour in the early morning and heard a fascinating talk from Rodney about the history of wrecks on the Auckland Islands, after which there was an option to go ashore at Tagua Bay. One group climbed through the stunted forest to the old coastwatchers' hut and lookout, while another tried birding around the beach. The howling gale made looking for bush birds a wee bit challenging, but being inside the forest with its lichens and gnarled understory was an incredible experience. Some great Zodiac work got us safely back to the ship in the wind-whipped waters, after which we enjoyed a leisurely and very fine Christmas meal, prepared by our chefs Lindsay and Bobbie. Battening down the hatches we headed out from the sheltered waters and attempted to move on towards Macquarie Island. The north-west wind continued to howl and rage, and the seas were spectacular, with waves crashing over the bow as we plunged into mountainous seas. The albatross were dwarfed by the white-capped swells and we agreed were certainly experiencing the legendary Southern Ocean. Many stayed safely in their cabins but for those who braved the conditions, the birding was great, with numerous White-headed Petrels, some nice Grey-backed Storm-Petrels, and plenty of great albatross (mainly the local-breeding Gibson's Wanderers) riding out the storm and gliding around the ship. After a few hours of making very little headway and a memorably rocking dinner, the Captain and Rodney made the very sensible decision to turn back and wait out the storm in the lee of the Auckland Islands. A steady night's sleep was perhaps the best Christmas present any of us could have wished for!
50o48'S 166o04'E (Carnley Harbor), turning back 8pm at 50o58'S 165o20'E; SST 11oC. Overcast and misty, 45-60 knot NW wind and mountainous cross swells (to 8-10m) upon a confused sea.
The Ocean South
It rocks our World
As albatrosses sail
Put food to mouth
Before it's hurled
By one unholy gale
Shredded sapphire
Streaks of white
Climb mountains made of sea
A roaring fire
And candlelight
A Christmas not for me
Day 6. At Sea
We awoke in the lee of the Auckland Islands and after breakfast lifted anchor and headed back out to sea. Conditions had abated somewhat but it was still a rather rocky day. Then again, the wind is what albatrosses like, and we enjoyed the constant presence of Gibson's [Wandering] and Southern Royal Albatross, along with numerous Auckland Shy (White-capped) Albatross and our first Grey-headed Albatross. The spectacular White-headed Petrel was also a regular feature, as were Antarctic Prions. Also seen during the day were Black-bellied and Grey-backed Storm-Petrels, a few Mottled Petrels, and our first cetacean – a Southern Bottlenose Whale.
50o47'S 166o15'E (Auckland Islands) ending (8pm) at 51o49'S 164o22'E; SST 11oC to 9oC. Variably cloudy and sunny, with 30-40 knot WNW to WSW wind and 5-6m swells.
Day 7. At Sea
Dawn found us in gentler seas and in Australian waters, continuing south-west to arrive off Macquarie Island by about 9pm. Birding through most of the day was relatively quiet over these deep ocean waters, although we had great opportunities to study Wandering and Royal Albatrosses and practice some seabird photography. Adam gave a lecture on the world's albatrosses in the morning, followed by shopping opportunities at the Sea Shop; and in the afternoon Rodney and Adam prepared us for our Macquarie Island visit, followed by vacuuming quarantine measures supervised by Igor our DOC representative. After dinner the island was just discernable through the fog, and the cloud ceiling lifted just enough to view the huge King Penguin colony at Lusitania Bay, as the winds whipped up the sea and hundreds of seabirds including our first Soft-plumaged Petrels and Black-browed Albatross flew around the ship.
52o57'S 162o06'E ending at 54o35'S 159o06'E (Macquarie); SST 9oC to 8oC. Overcast with spitting rain showers, 15-20 knot winds and 3m swells, with winds gusting to 40+ knots in the lee of Macquarie.
Day 8. Macquarie Island
We awoke off the Australian Base at Buckles Bay, Macquarie Island, and early risers managed to see all four penguin species around the ship, plus a breaching Orca! The eight Aussie personnel we had brought from Invercargill disembarked after breakfast, when we picked up three outbound personnel, three rangers (Richard, Paul and Lauren) and two rabbit and rat hunters (Kelly and Stephen) to accompany us south to Sandy Bay. Thanks to the efforts of people like Kelly and Stephen, the non-native rats, mice and rabbits were almost completely eradicated in 2011 and the vegetation and bird populations are already showing signs of recovery. However ongoing monitoring and diligence are still needed, but signs are good that Macquarie has become a success story in the annals of island restoration.
Words cannot really describe the experience of arriving at a beach packed with stately King Penguins and groups of hurrying Royal Penguins, complimented by the associated sounds and smells of the lounging and lunging Southern Elephant Seals. Skuas and giant petrels wheel overhead against the green, well-vegetated cliffs, while Antarctic Terns plunge-dive in the bays as Macquarie Shags swing by. Despite the low cloud ceiling and misty conditions, this was a very special day, and it seemed as if we were on another planet named the Planet of the Penguins; with the rest of the world so far removed as to be completely forgotten. The colony of Royal Penguins with chick creches, now accessible via a new and very sturdy boardwalk, and the mass of King Penguins with their 'wooly' youngsters were impressive for their sheer density – what perfect jigsaw puzzles they would make! And how many photos were taken?
With golden ears
And silver shawl
Bills pointed to the skies
They show no fears
And stand so tall
Emitting bugle cries
All ruling here
An island home
Remote and rarely seen
An atmosphere
That few will roam
And fewer still have seen
After leaving Sandy Bay we lunched on the ship and moved north to Buckles Bay, where the whipping wind, rocky beach and driving rain made for a slightly tricky landing. The warmth of our Australian hosts more than compensated however, and a fascinating tour of the base also featured a few Redpolls (much appreciated by some of the birders) as well as delightful Gentoo Penguins, numerous Elephant Seals (making themselves quite at home in the buildings!), and some striking white-morph Southern Giant-Petrels. Hot drinks with scones and cream at the mess allowed us a window into life on the base, but all too soon it was time to head back to the ship, now with three new Australian personnel to transport back to the 'real world’. Luckily, sea conditions had improved and the Zodiacs were able to cruise by the Rockhopper Penguins at Garden Cove before we boarded for another fine hot dinner and a good sleep.
Day 9. At Sea
The rolling swells eased somewhat during our day at sea, heading ENE towards Campbell Island. Katya gave a lecture on the whales and dolphins of the region in the morning, and Rodney talked about the history of Campbell Island in the afternoon. Birding was steady, with a good variety of species logged by the day's end, including 10-11 albatross species, some nice White-headed Petrels, and our first Fulmar Prion (in Australian waters!). We crossed back into NZ waters at about 1pm.
53o55'S 162o11'E ending at 53o12'S 166o15'E; SST 6-10oC. Overcast and misting, becoming foggy in pm, 10-15 knot NW to W winds and 3-4m mixed swells.
Leathery liquid pewter
Heaving and sighing with swell
Foggy and leaden horizon
Foreboding what no-one can tell
Day 10. Campbell Island
A rainy dawn found us just off Campbell Island, with numerous albatrosses, Pintado Petrels, and giant petrels around the ship. Our first Campbell Shags flew out to greet us as we turned into Perseverance Harbour, with cloud-shrouded island tops on either side, and colonies of Hooker's Sea Lions and shags on opposite shores. After dropping anchor and eating breakfast we had a briefing and outline for the day. Some opted for 'the long walk' while others opted for Zodiac cruises around the bay and then climbed the boardwalk to Col Lyall. The 'long-walkers' set off first and had an amazing day, even if the first half was in driving rain. Besides spectacular views and megaherbs, they found a pair of Campbell Teal, two single Antipodes Albatross, and even the little-known endemic (but formally undescribed) Campbell Snipe, only discovered in 1997. Both groups enjoyed close-up and personal experiences with the nesting icon of Campbell, the Southern Royal Albatross. It really is quite a moving experience to be so close to these ocean giants.
All the Zodiac cruisers also had great views of the flightless Campbell Island Teal, with a record-breaking seven birds being seen – something unimaginable even three years ago. It is wonderful to witness the island fauna steadily recovering. As well as 'the world's loneliest tree', an Eastern Curlew was a little out of place, as were three Great Cormorants (aka Black Shags). We were absorbed by the feeding frenzies of gulls and Antarctic Terns, along with the handsome endemic shags, so the rain was little more than a vague background effect. After a chance to dry off and eat their picnic lunches at leisure on the ship, the 'short walkers' ferried back ashore to the boardwalk as the sun came out for a welcome warming.
Despite low clouds the afternoon remained dry, if breezy. The opportunity to see the majestic Southern Royal Albatross nesting and displaying up close will be forever etched in our minds. The unique flora of this island is also something very special. Lush slopes painted in verdant greens, varied purples, and golden yellows by carpets of flowering megaherbs, where confiding pipits made their homes will never be forgotten. Those staying late enjoyed some spectacular 'gamming' as groups of pre-breeding albatross gathered to display, and a few people even managed to glimpse the elusive Campbell Snipe. Overall an exhilarating day, followed by a fine dinner and a well-earned sleep.
52o39'S 169o09'E (offshore in am) to 52o34'S 169o14'E (Perseverance Harbour); SST 10oC. 'Undercast' and rainy through lunchtime, becoming mostly cloudy with sunny spells and a cool NW wind in the pm.
Day 11. At Sea
The day was spent at sea heading ENE towards the Antipodes. It was a day of albatross and sunshine, with a following sea making things very pleasant. We awoke to the classic 'Southern Ocean' spectacle of numerous albatross and White-chinned Petrels circling the ship, and by the day's end we had enjoyed some ten species of albatross, with countless chances to see that elusive 'honey eye' on the handsome Campbell Albatross. At times there were upwards of 20 Southern Royals and two Northern Royals around the ship, and in the late afternoon an optimistic skua tried his chances by harassing these ocean giants, but without success. Videos were shown that discussed the rat eradication from Campbell and the successful reintroduction of the teal there, followed by a talk from Steve entitled Seabirds of the World, Part 1 - What is a Seabird? In the afternoon Adam gave a fine lecture giving an over-view of penguins of the world. After dinner and the reading of the bird list a select band of hardy souls stayed awake to sing in the New Year as the seas rolled beneath us.
51o54'S 171o31'E to 50o47'S 175o18'E; SST 10-11oC. Variably cloudy and mostly sunny, with 15-25 knot NW winds.
The morning sun
Spills silver light
On softened southern seas
Our northward run
Begun last night
The Spirit takes with ease
Day 12. Antipodes Islands
It's not a bad start to the year when five of the first seven species you see are albatross! The first few hours as we approached the remote Antipodes Islands were packed with birds, from good numbers of the endemic Antipodes Albatross to the diminutive Subantarctic Little Shearwater, plus White-headed and Soft-plumaged Petrels. Surprisingly we saw a White-faced Storm-Petrel amongst plenty of prions (including Fairy, Fulmar, and Broad-billed), plus a briefly seen Sei Whale. The towering cliffs of the Antipodes were bathed in welcome sunlight as the braying choruses of penguins carried out to the ship. Pintado Petrels circled all around as we entered the lee of Ringdove Bay. A surprise was finding a yacht already there. The Tiama had just delivered some albatross researchers for the season and was heading back to the South Island.
After lunch we had some amazing Zodiac cruises at these rarely visited outposts of volcanic rock. The lush green, vegetated steep slopes and the amazing, kelp-fringed shores held hundreds of Erect-crested Penguins, smaller numbers of Rockhopper Penguins, and hundreds of New Zealand Fur Seals, among which were a few Subantarctic Fur Seals. There were pipits seemingly everywhere and the endemic Hochstetter's (Red-crowned) Parakeet was also quite conspicuous. It took considerable work combined with a little bit of luck and the sharp eyes of Katya however to find the less common Antipodes Parakeet. Antarctic Terns dived at skuas, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross wheeled overhead, smoky-blue Fulmar Prions flitted in and out of magical caves, and the cliffs, caves, waterfalls, kelp, and crystal-clear waters were mesmerising. After dinner back on the ship we headed on northwards, towards the Bounty Islands.
49o51'S 177o23'E to 49o35'S 178o51'E; SST 9-12oC. Variably cloudy and mostly sunny, with 15-25 knot NW winds.
Day 13. Bounty Islands
A misty but sunny dawn and a rolling swell found us just south of the Bounty Islands, a rugged group of exposed stacks. These islands are one of nature's untold spectacles, absolutely packed with nesting albatross, penguins and fur seals, along with Fulmar Prions and the handsome Bounty Islands Shag, perhaps the rarest (and certainly the most localised) shag in the world. The rough seas and dashing white surf added to the atmosphere as thousands of Salvin's Albatross wheeled on the updrafts or sat on the water. We also noted hundreds of Pintado Petrels and a few Southern Royal Albatross, while groups of shags flew out to circle the ship in greeting. Leaving the dizzying spectacle of the Bounty Islands behind, we headed on north, towards the Chatham Islands, the last island group on our itinerary.
The afternoon at sea was somewhat bumpy (including one memorable 45o roll as we crossed the 180o meridian in mid-afternoon!) but good numbers and an increasing diversity of birds kept the birders out on deck. New species added included Northern Buller's Albatross, Short-tailed Shearwater, and three species of gadfly petrel – Grey-faced, Black-winged and Pycroft's Petrels. Somehow the chefs kept to their work in trying seas and once again produced a wonderful meal, served as always by the redoubtable Natalia and Ala.
48o05'S 179o02'E to 46o13'S 179o20'W; SST 9-12oC. Variably cloudy and mostly sunny, with 20-25 knot NW winds and cross swells.
Day 14. At Sea
The waters we transited today are arguably the richest in the world for seabirds, and an impressive 25 species of tubenoses were recorded. Squadrons of weaving prions accompanied us for a while, allowing great comparisons of Broad-billed and Fairy prions (yes, they really do look different!), while 10 species of albatross including the stunningly handsome Chatham and Northern Buller's, plus both royals as almost constant accompaniment. The most familiar bird of the day however, was the plucky little White-faced Storm-Petrel, which could be seen almost all day long, skipping and splashing over the waves. Instead of heading straight to Pyramid Rock as originally planned due to a strong weather system we headed to the lee of the main island and anchored off Port Hutt for a pleasantly calm night as the storm passed by and the wind dropped.
45o19'S 178o10'W to 43o49'S 176o41'W at anchor; SST 12-16oC. Variably cloudy and sunny, with 25-35 knot NW winds and 6-8m confused cross swells, changing to 5-10 knot S winds by late afternoon.
Day 15. Chatham Islands – Waitangi
A gloomy and rainy dawn greeted us as we prepared for a day ashore on the main Chatham Island, which is 45 minutes' ahead in time from the rest of New Zealand. After two weeks of visiting remote and largely pristine islands, the pastoral landscape and human habitation of the Chathams came as a bit of a shock to the system. We landed at Port Hutt, where some Pitt Island Shags decorated a dilapidated fishing boat, and then headed by bus south through Waitangi, where a vehicle reshuffle allowed us to stretch and see the Chatham Oystercatcher before we pressed on to the Awatotara Valley. This private reserve, under the stewardship of Bruce and Liz Tuanui, gave us a taste of how the island looked before human habitation, and what can be done with some foresight and commitment to conservation. We split into groups to walk along the valley enabling us to see some native and re-vegetated forest habitats. The rain mostly held off, and all groups enjoyed good views of the endemic pigeon and warbler (or gerygone), as well as the Tui, fantail and pipit, along with roadside harriers and Wekas. Back in town there was time to relax, wander, do some shopping, and stop at the hotel for a drink and some fish and chips. By 5pm we were all back aboard and the ship headed south along the coast to waters off The Horns where a dedicated small band skipped dinner and maintained a petrel vigil. Their diligence paid off. A distant Magenta Petrel was followed by a closer Chatham Petrel. Then a second Magenta Petrel made a close circuit of the ship and, in the fading light, another Chatham Petrel whipped across the bows before a memorable sunset. Two of the world's rarest seabirds within an hour, and even photos of both! A euphoric bird list and recap of the day was followed by a welcome sleep.
43o49'S 176o41'W (at anchor) to 44o09'S 176o51'W; SST 15oC. Overcast and misty with morning rain, brightening and drier through the day; 15-25 knot fresh and cool S winds.
Day 16. Pyramid Rock
What a difference a day makes! Dawn found us in calmer seas south of The Pyramid. Here we were treated to the spectacular sight of tens of thousands of albatross circling around this striking islet, ostensibly home to all of the world’s population of the very handsome Chatham Albatross. The sun shone and blue skies made for glorious views of the islands. After circling The Pyramid while Adam chummed in scores of squabbling albatross, we headed over to South East Island, where we took a Zodiac cruise along the coastline. Despite a big swell we all had great views of the very local and unique Shore Plover, along with nesting White-fronted Terns, lounging fur seals, and the distinctive but as-yet-unnamed 'Chatham Skua' - a member of the Brown Skua complex but in some ways looking more like a South Polar Skua. Moving between the islands we all enjoyed the sun out on deck as Chatham Shags flew around the ship. After lunch we made a close pass of Mangere and Little Mangere islands, historic features in the story of the Black Robin, a conservation icon. By 2:30pm we started to head west and away from the Chathams, still in warm sunshine and low, rolling seas with a liberal scattering of White-faced Storm-Petrels and albatross in tow. Some mid-afternoon chumming by Adam offered us great views (and more photo opportunities) of six species of albatross, as well as Pintado Petrels, giant petrels, and even a few prions and storm-petrels. After dinner we were entranced by the very rare sight of a big group of Southern Right Whale Dolphins porpoising off the bow.
44o26'S 176o50'W to 44o26'S 177o40'W; SST 15oC. Sunny and partly cloudy, 5-10 knot S wind with mixed swells.
Day 17. At Sea
A relaxing day on board with gently rolling seas, saw many folk taking the opportunity to be outside and enjoy the sunshine. The opening act in cetacean entertainment for the day was a trio of the very rarely encountered Shepherd's Beaked Whales. The main act of three Orca appeared briefly in the late afternoon. We crossed back over the 180o meridian in the morning and birds were steady throughout the day, with numerous albatross (some recognizable individual Wanderings being with us all day), White-faced Storm-Petrels, and 'Cookilaria' petrels (mainly Cook's but with a few Pycroft's identified courtesy of digital images). Steve gave part 2 of his Seabirds of the World (penguins and albatrosses) lecture in the morning, and in the afternoon Katya gave a fascinating lecture on the human history and natural history of the Russian Far East. After dinner the movie The Big Year was shown in the lecture room.
44o40'S 179o43'W to 45o02'S 176o58'E; SST 15oC. A sunny morning, becoming mostly overcast in the pm; 15-20 knot N wind in am, becoming 5-10 knots in pm, with generally low and rolling seas.
Day 18. At Sea
It was a good morning to rest and start preparing for re-entry into the 'real world’ today as the weather remained fine and the seas calm. Birdlife was dominated by good numbers of Sooty Shearwaters along with a few Hutton's Shearwaters, our last Wandering and Royal Albatrosses. Two tantalizingly brief sightings of whales also punctuated the day. Steve gave the third and final part of his Seabirds of the World presentation after lunch as the wind freshened and the ship started to roll again. We watched the Mottled Petrels and Sooty Shearwaters glide effortlessly on the breeze they are built for.
In the afternoon we had a recap of this remarkable voyage, followed by a briefing for our arrival in Dunedin tomorrow. Meghan put together a wonderful slide show of the trip and Rodney and other members of the Expedition Team reminded us of the places we had visited and the things we had seen on what was truly a remarkable expedition to a little-visited but magical corner of the planet. The group gathered in the bar for drinks as the skyline of the Otago hills on the 'mainland' appeared on the horizon, and then enjoyed a delicious last night dinner buffet prepared by Lindsay and Bobbie.
45o20'S 174o16'E to 45o42'S 170o50'E; SST 13-14oC. Variably cloudy, sunny, some rain and near-sleet showers; 10 knot SW winds, increasing to 25 knots in the pm.
Day 19. Dunedin
The pilot came aboard at 6am. As we cruised up the long harbour channel to Dunedin city, the birders were still adding a few new species to the trip list while others were absorbing the sights of the New Year in the real world. Despite the bright sunshine, a howling wind made it quite cold outside, making us wonder whether we had we brought the Subantarctic back with us. After custom formalities and a group photo it was time to disembark and begin our travel back to various homes around the world. Thanks to everyone for making this such a wonderful and memory-filled trip to some of the most special places on the planet. We had travelled some 2,718 nautical miles and visited seven remarkable island groups on our voyage through the great Southern Ocean.
