HA250504: Discover the Islands of Japan: Voyage of Japan Between Tokyo & Osaka, Including South Korea
Day 1
Sunday 4 May 2025
Tokyo
As we arrived at The Westin Tokyo, we met the Heritage Expeditions staff in the lobby and a few of our fellow adventurers. After settling into our rooms, we headed off to enjoy a meal to mark the start of our Discover the Islands of Japan expedition. We started to get to know our fellow adventurers as we indulged in an Asian Fusion buffet and dessert. With our cabin numbers on our luggage tags, we closed the evening catching up on sleep from international flights or went on a self-exploration of the local attractions.
Day 2
Monday 5 May 2025
Tokyo/Kanazawa
We enjoyed a fabulous breakfast, which was a chance to reconnect with those we met at dinner, or meet new fellow travellers, before heading out for our activities in Tokyo. The weather was hot and sunny, and, as this was a Public Holiday, the area was bustling with locals. We first visited the lively Tokyo Fish Market, and after an hour of free time, we gathered again for the drive to the Imperial Palace Gardens. It was interesting to see the area where the Emperor lived and gain an insight into the gardens and building design of Japan.
At 12.30 pm we arrived at the Tokyo Train Station to commence our journey to Kanazawa. The station was buzzing with people, so we stuck close to our guides through the maze of corridors and escalators! In the end, we all made it onto the Shinkansen Bullet Train and got underway.
Straight away the team delivered our bento box lunches, and we excitedly explored the contents. With the train travelling at speeds up to 300km per hour, we soon left the high-rise buildings of Tokyo behind and were travelling past small towns and rural farmhouses surrounded by rice paddies. The mountains around us still had plenty of snow on them and the scenery was equally stunning and captivating.
The 2.5 hours passed quickly, and we soon pulled into Kanazawa Station and onto the coaches to the port to board our beautiful new home for the adventure ahead, Heritage Adventurer.
We scattered to explore, then came together for the lifeboat drill and introductory briefings. Hotel Director, Andrew, introduced us to life aboard, and our Expedition Leader, Steve, told us what to expect during our travels and introduced the expedition team and local Japanese guides – the experts who will help us get the most out of our time in Japan.
Shortly thereafter we had our first chance to sample the delights provided by the galley and dining room staff.
© K. Riedel, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© K. Riedel, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© K. Riedel, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 3
Tuesday 6 May 2025
Kanazawa
After our first night on board, we awoke for the morning briefing, where Steve reminded us that we had made choices for the optional excursions for each destination on this expedition. We had found blue, green or yellow tickets in our cabins to indicate our plan to take Options 1, 2, or sometimes 3. We also found the lists with our names, and the pre-selected options for the next day’s destination. We were given the chance to review and possibly change our choices. Having established this process, we were ready to board the coaches for our first day of activities. Kanazawa greeted us with a cool, cloudy start perfect for adventure.
Option 1 drove through the city and up to the mountains. At only 400m elevation, the village of Shirakawa-go is not high, but there was still quite a bit of snow on the higher mountains above. This village is still occupied and is maintained in traditional “folk style” housing, the majority with thick thatched roofs. It was wonderful to see some beautiful cherry and peach trees still in blossom due to the elevation. Tulips and daffodils were flowering in bright colours as well.
Our timing was perfect, as we were there before the crowds, thus able to take great photos despite the light rain. We toured the Kanda House where 400 years ago they made paper, gunpowder and silk. The walk up to the observation point warmed us and provided a lovely view over the village and a nice location to enjoy a bit of free time. We had a short drive to the lunch spot at the historic village of Gokayama. The hotel in the forest was quite scenic and at the restaurant, we were greeted with a feast of Japanese delights, including a whole Japanese Char, fried and presented with head, tail and body! The bravest of us ate it all.
After lunch, we toured Suganuma, another traditional “folk style” village, but much smaller, with only 12 houses. We had the place to ourselves while our local guide, who was born there, gave us a unique insight into life in this remote region.
Option 2 began with a visit to the famed Kanazawa Castle and Kenroku-en Garden. The Castle is vast and set in large park-like grounds. While not original, the rebuild, which is still in progress, is being done using historically accurate techniques and materials. The gardens are one of Japan’s most celebrated, always being ranked in the nation’s top three strolling gardens. Dating back to the 17th century, it combines six characteristics of spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water sources and magnificent views, embodying the ideal garden attributes, some of us even sampled the gold leaf ice cream that the area is well-known for.
Nearby was the Nagamachi Samurai District which we explored on foot. This historic district was once home to the elite samurai of the city, where narrow streets are lined with traditional wooden houses. Inside the ancient house of the Nomura family, we admired the beautiful architecture and design, with tatami mats underfoot and sliding doors opening onto an exquisite courtyard garden with many stone lanterns, lush plantings and giant Koi in the pond. Nearby we explored the streets and browsed many shops selling Kutani pottery with vivid colours and intricate designs.
After lunch onboard we visited Omicho Market, Kanazawa’s main market since 1603, full of fresh seafood including oysters and crabs and many other tempting local delicacies, many enjoyed tastings. Our day concluded with a stroll through the Geisha district followed by Gold Leaf Pasting Experience where we used the gold leaf that Kanazawa has produced for more than 400 years to create our own personalized chopsticks to take home as a souvenir.
Option 3 was a morning for Japanese arts and crafts enthusiasts. Our excursion took us to Yunokuni no Mori craft village where artisans of many disciplines offered the opportunity to try our hands at traditional crafts such as paper making, gold leaf impressions, silk painting and even Soba Noodle making. Each craft had a dedicated house where we admired the skilled work of the artisans.
After lunch onboard Heritage Adventurer, we visited Kenroku-en Garden. This lovely Japanese garden has been open to the public since 1874 and is most known for the rare quality of incorporating all six ‘excellent elements’ alongside man-made lanterns and bridges, ancient plants, abundant water, panoramas, and vast expanses with secluded areas. Our charming, knowledgeable guide, Yumiko-san, was so entertaining that we declined her offer to wander and followed her for the rest of our time there, pausing for a while under a large wooden shelter in the shape of a boat lined with benches that invited some time for reflection.
We all returned aboard just in time for Heritage Adventurer to cast off. As we pulled away from the wharf, Kanazawa came out in force to thank us for the visit and wish us farewell, with traditional music from a trio composed of drum, flute and koto (13 stringed instrument played by plucking). The characteristic sounds of classical Japanese music made for a touching send-off.
After time to refresh ourselves, it was time to gather in the lounge for the Captain’s Welcome Cocktails. Here we met Captain Sergiy and the heads of the departments that will be looking after us. The captain had also arranged for the galley team to serve a special menu for Captain’s Welcome Dinner. We were off to a great start.
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
Day 4
Wednesday 7 May 2025
Sakaiminato/Matsue
After a very smooth ride across the Sea of Japan, Heritage Adventurer berthed at the wharf in the port city of Sakaiminato for our exploration of the region around the city of Matsue.
Onboard, those on Option 1 could see Mount Daisen towering in the distance, with the summit hidden in the clouds. The drive took us across the city, through a rural area and into the wooded foothills of the mountain.
On arrival, we met our three local guides and separated into shorter and longer walking groups. Both groups followed the guides along the winding paths through the beech and impressive Japanese Cedar Forest passing shrines, temples and statues, including many small statues, with knitted red caps, to honour the Jizo Bodhisattva, protector of the souls of children who died as infants. This Buddhist monastery was once the home of more than 3,000 soldier monks. Those who made the climb visited both the Daisenji Temple and the Ogamiyama Shrine featuring outstanding wooden architecture.
Having whet our appetites, we were soon satisfied with a sumptuous barbeque lunch in a spacious and picturesque venue. We sampled everything from salads and scallops to steak and fruit with lots in between. Everyone went back for seconds and thirds.
The drive back past Heritage Adventurer to the coastal village of Mihonoseki allowed for a nap for most of us. At the village, we visited the large Shinto shrine dedicated to the Kami (Shinto gods) associated with seafaring and fishing and walked through the old town of traditional wooden houses. From the harbour, we finally got a clear view of the summit of Mount Daisen across the bay.
The excursion for Option 2 took us to the Adachi Museum of Art. Opened in 1970, this museum’s most unique feature is the use of stunningly beautiful Japanese garden vistas framed by windows as living art. The Adachi Gardens, which actually consists of six separate, unique gardens, is known as Japan’s most beautiful garden. In addition to the gardens, the museum is home to the impressive collection of Japanese prints and pottery collected by Adachi over his lifetime.
A short walk then took us to the Yasugi-Bushi Engeikan, a small theatre. Our seats were very low to the ground, in traditional style, but comfortable with a couple of big cushions. We enjoyed a humorous theatre performance. Most memorable was the participation of a couple of guests and several expedition staff members in a comical pantomime performance. Our lunch restaurant offered us the chance to try our hands at cooking our own food over a barbeque set in the middle of our tables.
At Matsue Castle, we climbed a lot of stairs, but it was worth it. The ancient castle showed its best side in the bright sunshine. Many of us stopped not once, but twice to admire a magnificent Chinese Fringe tree resplendent in full bloom with white draping blossoms giving off an intoxicating scent.
In the late afternoon, our two option groups came together at the Yuushien Gardens. Our visit started with a selection of superb sushi with green tea or coffee, and then we had the gardens to ourselves. The delicate beauty of the central red bridge, the moss-covered banks, the raked Zen dry rock gardens, and the mist-covered central pond area of this exquisite garden had us crossing the stepping stones, or wandering the twisting paths, trying to find the perfect spot to capture the shapes and symmetries planned by the designer.
Back on board, we learned Japanese etiquette from Hide-san and were prepared for tomorrow’s Zodiac shuttle by Katja before heading down to the next flavoursome offering from the galley team. After dinner photographer Steve met us to present his tips on improving our Travel Photography. 
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 5
Thursday 8 May 2025
Hagi
Hagi turned on perfect weather and sea conditions for our first and only Zodiac rides of the voyage. We boarded the little rubber boats for the quick transfer to the marina in light winds and warm sunshine. Both options took the shuttle ride then we split into our separate groups.
Option 1 headed out through the town, into the rice paddies, and up onto the limestone plateau for our visit to the Akiyoshido Cave, one of Japan’s largest and most impressive caves. Upon arrival, we headed to the time tunnel, descending through the theme park-style art into the natural world of the cave, or taking the shortcut down the elevator. Either way, the cavernous nature of the underground system became apparent as we joined the main river. Many of the cave’s highlights were illuminated with commentaries in English. As the cave narrowed, we found terraces of creamy white limestone filled with water providing reflections of the overhanging stalactites. At the exit, we faced the difficult choice of selection from the 100+ flavours of ice cream.
As we neared the marina for our return to Heritage Adventurer for lunch, a few of us took the opportunity to sample local cuisine at the Hagi Fish Market.
The afternoon took those on Option 1 first to the remains of Hagi Castle for a brief stroll through the stone fortifications to the moat. A quick transit took us to visit the Samurai district, formerly the home of the warriors who served the local Daimyo, or lord, of the castle. We walked through the neighbourhood before touring the Kikuya Residence, the home of a wealthy merchant from the Edo Period. This traditional house and garden, full of artefacts from the time, gave a glimpse of what life was like for a close friend and supporter of the Daimyo.
Option 2 started with a visit to the accommodation of one of the Mori Clan who ruled this area from 1604, and a walk through the nearby ruins of the Hagi Castle, following the moats and stone foundations to where the keep had been. We had seen a few castles on previous excursions, nonetheless, the ruins evoked our imagination of 400 years previously, with the ancient remnant gardens and old teahouse, it made a pleasant ramble.
We then moved on to explore Tokoji Temple, an impressive old Buddhist temple and the site of the tombs of the odd-numbered generations of the Mori dynasty. The grounds featured more than 500 stone lanterns which are candle-lit once a year, which must be a very impressive sight. For lunch, we went to a hotel that provided a fabulous feast of local cuisine, featuring Fugu or Pufferfish safely prepared by an expert. Everything was a tasty treat.
We overlapped with the Option 1 tour in the Samurai district and split again for a stop at the Yoshika Taibi Memorial Museum and Workshop. There we learned the story of the introduction of Hagi-ware (or Hagi yaki) pottery from Korea, and the transformation from daily-use items to art by Yoshika Taibi, the founder of this pottery business. We saw his stunning works in the museum and the potters at their wheels. Finally, in the shop, many of us took the opportunity to support the Japanese economy!
Another pleasant Zodiac ride returned us to our trusty expedition vessel where we presented our passports to clear immigration out of Japan. We were now starting to get into the rhythm of Heritage Adventurer and had our beverages and curiosity ready for the recap and briefing, and our appetites ready for another delectable feast. South Korea here we come!
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 6
Friday 9 May 2025
South Korea
Our day in South Korea started wet and got wetter and windier. Undeterred, we grabbed our umbrellas and raincoats and headed out to the coaches as soon as the immigration clearance was completed. We stopped at the gate to satisfy the authorities that we were not a threat, then drove through the active heart of Ulsan, “Hyundai City”, and into the countryside.
For Option 1 the undisputed highlight of the day was our guide, Sam (Sung-Ju). He brightened our very rainy day with stories, jokes, as well as a lot of interesting information and interpretation. Our first stop was the Flying Horse Tomb, an ancient Silla burial mound that has been excavated and turned into a superb museum featuring replicas of the treasures found within.
We went on to the magnificent Bulguksa Buddhist temple. We saw monks chanting and took shelter from the rain under the many covered, intricately carved walkways. Sam told us about Buddhism’s beliefs of reincarnation, karma, and kindness towards all other beings as the path of enlightenment. He also pointed out that the very long earlobes we see on most Buddha statues are to remind us to listen more and say less.
We ate our fill of sushi, Korean and western fare at a local buffet restaurant. It had the unique feature of robots sporting smiley faces bussing tables when called.
It was pouring rain by the time we reached the bamboo forest, but undeterred and with most of us sporting umbrellas, we walked through towering bamboo groves that gave us additional cover. Back at Heritage Adventurer, we bid a fond farewell to Sam. It truly is the people you meet along the way that make any expedition truly special.
Option 2 headed south along the coast. Much of the drive was through the wooded hills, but the city skyscrapers were never absent from view for very long. Soon we entered Busan, the second-largest city in South Korea with a population of 3.3 million. Our first stop was at the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple. The place was bustling. The walking trail was dotted by little shrines, Buddhas, and stone statues including a row of horoscope animals, and even a couple of golden pigs thought to bring good luck. A set of steep stairs led to the temple bridge. Bridges are symbolic of the divide between the Earth and the holiness of the temple. A sign proclaimed it as “The Most Beautiful Temple in Korea”, which was easy to believe. Even in these conditions the combination of the rocky coast, ornately carved buildings, and colourful Buddha’s Birthday lanterns made a splendid scene.
At the 100-story BUSAN X the Sky Building, a super-fast elevator transported us to the top. The animation in the elevator was fun, which was a good thing as the view was of fog. Some took the chance for a coffee at the world’s highest Starbucks.
With our appetites whetted (sorry), it was time to stop for lunch. The buffet was extraordinary. There were dozens and dozens of dishes including the sushi bar, freshly cooked seafood, the roast carvery, spicy stir-fries, many types of kimchee, and plenty of fruits, veggies, and sweets. Everyone went back for more of their favourite, or to try something different.
With full bellies, we headed on to Gamcheon Culture Village. Once a slum, this small neighbourhood has transformed itself into an eccentric streetscape lined with souvenir shops, craft galleries, food stalls, cafes and eateries. Built on a hillside, there were many retaining walls, all painted in bright colours, and loads of hidden little quirky touches. We explored the shops for shelter and to appreciate the many hand-crafted items.
Our final stop was the Jagalchi Fish Market, the biggest of its kind in Korea. The huge central hall was filled with stalls and tanks overflowing with a wide variety of sea creatures. We were again reminded of all the ocean offers us and how important it is to be good stewards of its rich resources.
After a great day of adventure, we were back aboard to get dry and warm and meet in the lounge for the evening's programme followed by dinner. After dinner, we had the chance to learn a bit of history, geology and culture as John, Katja and Yulia presented an Introduction to Japan.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© K. Riedel, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
Day 7
Saturday 10 May 2025
Fukuoka
Our captain had warned us that our passage back across the Sea of Japan could entail a bit more motion of the ocean, and it did. Still, it was no trouble as we were ready to re-enter Japan and set off on our next excursions.
From the wharf in Hakata Port, Option 1 headed for the Sasaguri Forest. We have enjoyed several Japanese strolling gardens formed around lakes. This morning, we also strolled around a lake, but through a natural, not garden, environment. The contrast was marked, and we re-connected with the untamed trees, ferns, undergrowth, caterpillars and skinks. The next stop, Nanzoin Temple, was man-made but in a natural environment. The focus was the largest reclining brass Buddha statue in the world, but there were plenty of other attractions. In many side temples of the hillside site, or along the pathways, we found smaller Buddha statues, often in large groupings. Some of these wore the red woven caps of the Boddhisatva Jizo, protector of the innocent children.
After lunch aboard, we spent a warm Saturday afternoon at Ohori Park. This city park, set around a large lake with islands and bridges, was the perfect venue to watch the world go by. The locals were out to walk their dogs, dress up in kimonos, ride the pedal-powered swan boats, have a barbeque or an ice cream, play baseball, or otherwise enjoy the day. So, we enjoyed another lakeside stroll with another uniquely Japanese attraction. Our final call was to the Fukuoka City Museum, where we checked out the special exhibit for the area’s history from the prehistoric, through the development of international trading, to the modern era.
First on the agenda for Option 2 was a visit to Hakata Machiya Folk Museum, where we learned about the ancient Yamakasa Festival. The festival takes months of preparation as men build elaborate floats on huge wooden poles which they then carry on their shoulders as they race through the streets of Hakata. We also saw many arts and crafts on display and witnessed a craftsman as he painted plaster figurines.
A quick jaunt across the street brought us to the Kushida Shrine. A magnificent sacred Ginkgo Tree thought to be over 1000 years old, stood towering over the site. Stalls lined the square in front of the shrine, selling fortunes and good luck charms. A few children dressed in traditional garb, most memorably a little girl dressed in an elaborate red kimono, were there to be blessed on their birthdays.
Lunch took us to a local restaurant where we had the chance to try many Japanese delicacies, including a stacked bento box accompanied by local beer or sake.
Then it was off to Kokura Castle, which calls itself ‘the most entertaining castle in Japan’. We were greeted by actors in Samurai garb and toured the castle before heading back down the hill for a short walk to the Kokura Castle Gardens. Here we had a chance to try our hands on traditional weaving methods instructed by very eager volunteers. In no time we each had made our own keychain and went on to explore the museum, featuring spinning wheels and looms that produce the very fine cloth specific to this region of Japan. After a wander through the little garden, we headed back to Heritage Adventurer with memories of another day well spent.
We were back aboard for a session with Hide-san and our Japanese guides on the folding of origami paper cranes to honour the memory of Sadako Sasaki and prepare our peace offering for our visit to Nagasaki tomorrow. The fine summer evening continued with a barbeque dinner on Deck 6 aft as Heritage Adventurer cast off into the sunset light. Tommy entertained and educated us after dinner with his presentation on Japanese Folklore.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© T. Mulholland, Heritage Expeditions
© K. Riedel, Heritage Expeditions
© K. Riedel, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 8
Sunday 11 May 2025
Sasebo/Nagasaki
After a delicious breakfast, we disembarked our trusty expedition vessel and boarded the coaches for a day of adventure.
Option 1 drove through the city of Sasebo and out past lush hillsides to arrive in Nagasaki. Our first destination was the Atomic Bomb Museum. There we saw the devastating effect of the bomb dropped at 11:02 am on August 9, 1945. The exhibits made clear the tragedy that exploded on that warm summer day, and the destruction and radiation that have continued to affect the place and the people for decades – even until today. A short stroll through the city brought us to the Peace Park. This place is a sculpture garden with many different aspects of the population united to show their commitment to peace. We could leave our offering of paper cranes near the principal statue to show our support for this noble cause. Lunch was a delicious bento box of local cuisine.
A short drive took us to the famous district of Dejima. We assembled on the upper floor of the Captain’s House for a Geisha performance. We saw up-close the lovely kimonos and graceful dancing of the two performers with a shamisen player for music, and fans and cherry blossoms as props. Then, the bravest among us were added to the musical ensemble on drums and bells, and even as dancers trying to follow the motions of our hostesses. Everyone enjoyed our efforts. Dejima was the only point of contact for Japan with Europe for the entire Edo Period when Japan was closed to the world. The district has been faithfully restored, and, with many displays and excellent English interpretive signage, we saw how this small island played an important part in preserving links that blossomed in the eventual opening of Japan.
For Option 2, the first destination was across the city at the historic Yamashita House. A wealthy sake brewer of the Edo Period had constructed this lovely guesthouse to host the local Daimyō (Feudal Lord) for one-night stays during his journeys to Edo (Tokyo) to see the Shogun, or on other trips. With a retinue of 150, it must have been quite a sight. The guesthouse would have made a comfortable stop, with luxurious furnishings, and a splendid tiny garden off the back deck. For us, and perhaps for the Daimyō, a highlight was the sake brewed on-site. We sampled some of the many varieties offered, and more-than-a-few of us found a favourite to bring home. Next, we headed to the Kujukushima Observatory. Kujuku is 99 in Japanese, their metaphor for “uncountable”. There were indeed too many to count in the sweeping vista of sprawling islands.
After lunch aboard we again crossed town to visit Mikawachi, a renowned hub for traditional pottery. This is the village where in the 1500’s, Korean potters first discovered the correct limestone rock to craft fine porcelain. At the gallery and museum, we saw the potter at his wheel and the painter with his brush, learned the history, and viewed exceptional examples of the craft. From there, we walked through the village from workshop/kiln to workshop/kiln guided by the artists themselves. We had the place to ourselves, as we were welcomed by family, saw the various traditional specialities, and had demonstrations. The art was amazing, but the walk through this unspoiled village was also a highlight.
As we arrived back to Heritage Adventurer, a nearby local market with street food and beer stalls was a hive of activity. As we cast off, we were treated to a farewell performance by a young, energetic, athletic and colourful group of Taiko drummers, as the crowd waved yellow flags to see us off. Completely fantastic.
We had little time to collect ourselves before recap, briefing and dinner had us wondering if this was the best day yet.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© K. Riedel, Heritage Expeditions
© K. Riedel, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© K. Riedel, Heritage Expeditions
Day 9
Monday 12 May 2025
Yakushima
Yakushima Island is the wettest part of Japan, so it was not a surprise that we were greeted with a bit of drizzle as we reached the port. We were informed that this morning’s walks, long or short, would be up, down and across some difficult terrain, so several of us chose to enjoy a relaxing morning aboard.
The rest of us gathered our wet-weather gear and umbrellas and boarded the coaches. For today the destination for both options was the same. The drive was first along the rugged coast and through small villages and towns before we turned toward the mountains and entered the UNESCO World Heritage area.
Happily, the weather cleared during the drive and the remainder of the day was warm, dry and occasionally sunny. The road quickly became narrow and twisty, climbing steeply with many one-lane sections. The drying weather enticed the local Japanese Macaque population onto the road, as it dries and warms quickest. We saw many groups from the coach windows, grooming and socializing, including mothers with infants.
We arrived at Yakusugi Land and set off on the circuits of various lengths that we had selected. The track was normally boardwalks with steps, but, for the longer walkers, some rougher country required scrambling. Either way, we were up and down the sides of valleys and crossing the rushing streams. At the stream crossings, and on the mountainsides, we could see the tough granite rock that characterizes the island – so different than the normal Japanese volcanic landscape. The forest was composed of many different species of trees, undergrowth, and mosses, but the “sugi” were the stars. Sometimes incorrectly called Japanese Cedar, Cyptomeria japonica, formed the bulk of the tree cover. It was heavily logged for hundreds of years both for shingles and for lumber, but some ancient specimens survived. The oldest “Yakusugi” are estimated to be 5000+ years old, and we saw several over 1200 years old. Some of us stopped at the Yakusugi Museum where we learned about the natural and human history of the area and could see the beauty of the timber from which the museum was built.
Then, it was back to Heritage Adventurer for a well-earned lunch before heading along the coast in the other direction. Our destination was Inakahama Beach, Japan’s largest turtle nesting site. On the beach, we saw the restricted areas where the Loggerhead Sea Turtles build their nests and lay their eggs. We also saw turtle tracks from the previous night. The turtles are only seen at night, but the information from our guides, combined with the wild and gorgeous sand, surf and rocks made for an excellent afternoon out.
Upon our return to Heritage Adventurer, we were excited to see Taiko drums ready to be set up. We were treated to a second consecutive Taiko drumming farewell. Compared to Sasebo, this group was larger (in number) but smaller (in age). The school children displayed the same energy, flair and coordination as the adults. We loved it. To top it off, they released soap bubbles that floated their wishes up to us on the decks, as they waved their colourful flags to send us off.
Back on board, the education programme continued with John’s talk on The Life of a Geisha and Katja’s on Japanese Philosophy. We looked in the shop before recap and briefing. Dinner featured a special Japanese menu.
The day was not yet complete as after dinner a special Kimono Workshop was held. The history was discussed with our Japanese guide, Yumiko-san, and a volunteer went through each of the many layers of robes and obis to explain the special cultural significance of this uniquely Japanese garment.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 10
Tuesday 13 May 2025
Uwajima
With the long overnight transit, we enjoyed the opportunity for a sleep-in. After breakfast, Shirley Russ gave us an insight into her and her family’s passions in Heritage Expeditions: The Story So Far. Out on deck, it was a rare opportunity to enjoy a daylight ship’s cruise through the hazy layered hills and islands as we approached Shikoku, eventually being joined by flag-waving escorts as we neared Uwajima. To make the most of our day, we had an early lunch before getting out into the sunshine for our excursions.
Option 1 visited the Doi Pearl Company where we saw first-hand the process of creating cultured pearls. The second and third generations of this family-run business gave us a hands-on demonstration. The highlight for many was seeing the pearl emerge from the oyster under the gentle pressure of the old man’s thumb. This industry involves many local people in all stages of the cultivation of oysters and the production of the beautiful jewellery that tempted us in the shop. Later we went to the Tenshaen Garden, which is a small strolling garden. It was built during the Meiji Restoration by the feudal lord from the Date clan. The name “a place where a greater power allows us to enjoy our life” is in keeping with the intended purpose of relaxation in retirement. We all enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere and delicate features during our circuit of the lake. Feeding the Koi was quite a fun component as there were plenty of hungry fish.
Meanwhile, Option 2 set off for the Yusumizugaura Terraced Fields, snaking our way along the coast, in and out of numerous inlets, bays and fishing villages. We were amazed looking up the 80-metre climb to the top. Along the way, we learned that in the past the terraces were made from earth and used for Buckwheat. Over time, the earth was replaced by dry-stone walls and, 60 years ago, potatoes were introduced. What we saw was only a remnant of the much larger area previously farmed. The harvest was mostly complete, but, at the top, we met one old couple digging their crop. The view from the top over the bay, full of fish farms and distant mountains, was spectacular. Back at the base we were treated to fresh potato chips and steamed potatoes that were no doubt in the earth only a few days ago. We snaked our way back to town and then out into the hills to visit Nanrakuen Garden. This is the largest traditional Japanese garden in Shikoku, so we had plenty of room to wander around the ponds, through the woods, along the canals lined with cloud pines, and across the bridges. Some took the alternative strategy of finding a comfortable spot in the shade to enjoy the atmosphere.
We all visited Uwajima Castle. The climb of the hill to get to the castle is a gentle one through the forest at the start but ends with a series of uneven and twisting staircases built as part of the defences. Those who made it to the top agreed that it was worth it for a chance to see one of the 12 original castles remaining in Japan. Uwajima Castle is small and photogenic in its lovely park-like setting, with stunning views over the town.
In case of the unlikely event of us being hungry, the galley team had prepared an ample afternoon tea for us on our arrival back at the port. Refreshed, we gathered on the outside decks for a flag-waving farewell to match our flag-waving welcome, before returning to the lounge for Tina’s talk on Japanese Gardens and Lanterns. As soon as she had finished, we were out on deck for another ship’s cruise. This time along the coast and into the Seto Inland Sea.
As ever, the recap and briefing were informative and entertaining, and dinner was filling and tasty. The only downside of the whole day was the bit about preparing for disembarkation. Say it isn’t so!
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 11
Wednesday 14 May 2025
Uno Ko
As we approached the port of Uno Ko, the soft light of dawn created a Japanese watercolour in the eastern sky, promising a good day for the last shore excursion of our Discover the Islands of Japan expedition. By breakfast time we were secured to the wharf, and everyone was excited about their coming adventures.
The Option 1 group set off for Koraku-en Garden first established by the Daimyō (feudal lord) in the Edo Period. It is a “strolling garden” set around a large pond and consistently ranked as one of the top three gardens in Japan. It was easy to see why, with many quirky bridges, Koi carp and turtles in the pond, herons stalking among the lily pads, and many little nooks for quiet contemplation. Japan’s famous, Red-crowned Cranes were on display in an aviary.
Okayama Castle, the imposing, all-black “Crow Castle”, stood beautifully in its riverside setting. It has many modern features compared to other castles on our itinerary including a lift between the first and fourth floors so a few of our guests who don’t like steep stairs were able to reach the upper floors with ease and take in the great views. The stone ramparts, built in the late 16th century, and ports in the walls for dropping stone or firing guns, made us glad that we were not an invading army. The gold leaf on the roof-top ornaments dazzled in the sunlight.
We were back in the coaches for a journey across town to the historic district of Kurashiki. The first stop was at a local restaurant for a traditional bento box lunch. Then we joined the locals for another stroll – this time along the canals lined with white-walled kura (storehouses). These had been repurposed into shops selling a variety of local arts and crafts – and tasty treats. Punters poled their flat-bottomed boats filled with bamboo-capped guests back and forth in the quiet water as Koi drifted beneath. One section with many shops specialising in all thing’s denim including, believe it or not, denim-coloured ice cream.
The Ohara Museum of Art, Japan’s first museum to showcase Western masterpieces, attracted many and did not disappoint. As the day heated up, some found relief on shady benches and cooled themselves with ice cream.
For a change of pace, the Option 2 group headed on a short walk to start the day. We crossed the park past the sculptures of Sea Bream made from rubbish collected from local beaches. Well done team Uno Ko. We boarded the ferry for the 15-minute cruise to the renowned Naoshima Island, starting with a fine view of Heritage Adventurer.
Naoshima is noted as the home of some of Japan’s finest contemporary art. Our visit started at the Art House Project, a unique collection of art installations set within traditional houses. We saw a variety of installations, including one in a Shinto shrine. We stopped for a bento box lunch at a pleasant seaside restaurant, from which it was only a short stroll to the famous yellow pumpkin made by Yayoi Kusama, and a set of unusual animal sculptures.
We drove up the hill and split into groups to visit to Benesse House Museum and Chichu Art Museum, both designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando. The buildings themselves are giant works of art, designed and built to provide large, naturally lit, spaces for the celebrated works that they contain. Perhaps most notable is the large room housing Claude Monet’s water lilies at the Chichu.
We caught an earlier ferry back to Uno Ko, so we had a chance for an evening walk in the local park, before freshening up for the Captain’s Farewell Cocktails and Dinner.
This was our chance to thank the many people who have worked together to make this adventure so enjoyable for all of us. We skipped the normal recap and briefing but had a special recap of the entire voyage – the slideshow. Steve somehow managed to encapsulate the expedition in a series of images that showed how much we have seen and done. What a wonderful way to remember and share this wonderful trip. We headed to dinner with the memories fresh in our minds to laugh and reminisce over all the special highlights.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 12
Thursday 15 May 2025
Osaka and departure
Our Discover the Islands of Japan adventure came to an end as we put our luggage outside our doors before enjoying one last breakfast together and exchanging contact information with new friends. Time then for a final walk down the gangway and one last farewell to the Expedition Team as we headed off on new adventures, secure in the knowledge that this expedition, and our time together onboard Heritage Adventurer, will linger in our memories for a very long time.
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
