HA250424: Discover The Islands of Japan: Voyage of Japan Between Tokyo & Osaka, Including South Korea

DISCOVER THE ISLANDS OF JAPAN

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

24 April - 5 May 2024

Day 1
Thursday 24 April 2025
Osaka

Our journey began in Osaka as we met at Hilton Osaka, where we connected with Heritage Expeditions staff in the lobby and met some of our fellow adventurers, to share a meal to mark the start of our Discover the Islands of Japan expedition. As we got to know each other better, we indulged in an Asian-fusion buffet and dessert, a sign of the fabulous food we would be enjoying on the journey ahead.

With our cabin numbers on our luggage tags, we closed the evening catching up on sleep from international flights or went on a self-exploration of the famed Dotonbori with its numerous kitchens and attractions.

Day 2
Friday 25 April 2025
Osaka and departure

At breakfast, we had the chance to reconnect with those we met at dinner, or meet new fellow travellers, before heading out on our pre-selected activities in Osaka.

Some visited Nara Park, well known for its bowing Sika Deer and one of the largest wooden structures in the world, the Tōdai-ji Temple. The deer were ever-present and quick to determine who might have a food offering. The temple houses one of the largest buddha statues in the world carved entirely from wood. En route we learned from our Japanese guide, Katie, that huge timbers, such as those used for the temple, are now exhausted in Japan and must be imported from places such as Canada.

All had the opportunity to visit the impressive 8-story Osaka Castle. As we approached the castle, we were first impressed with the magnificent dry-stone wall construction of the giant moat. The castle itself held a commanding position over the surrounding area and had views from the top that were well worth the effort. Exhibits on each floor told the Samurai history of the area. When we descended, we roamed the lovely castle gardens and then made the short walk to the Osaka Museum of History nearby.

In the late afternoon we arrived at Osaka Port, under the huge Ferris wheel, to board our beautiful new home for the next 11 days, Heritage Adventurer. We scattered to explore, then came together for the lifeboat drill and introductory briefings. Hotel Director, Andrew, introduced us to life aboard, and Expedition Leader, Steve, told us what to expect during our travels and introduced the Expedition Team and local Japanese guides – the experts who will help us get the most out of our time in Japan.

Shortly thereafter we had our first chance to sample the delights provided by the galley and dining room staff. Just as dinner was ending, we were called to the outside decks to enjoy a farewell serenade from a local troupe. With the lights from the nearby amusement park and suspension bridge adding colour to the evening, we were off into the Seto Inland Sea.

© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions

Day 3
Saturday 26 April 2025
Uno Ko

We berthed at Uno Ko (Uno Port) during a delicious breakfast, and afterwards, we boarded the coaches in the morning sun, which stayed with us all day.

The first group set off for Okayama Castle and Koraku-en Garden. The all black “Crow Castle”, set by the river, is an imposing structure. The stone ramparts, built in the late 16th century, and ports in the walls for dropping stone or firing guns, made us glad that we were not an invading army. The gold leaf on the ornaments, and the blooming mountain azaleas, completed the scene. Once inside, we climbed to the upper floors for the view and to explore the historical displays inside.

Across the river was the Koraku-en Garden, first established by the Daimyō (feudal lord) in the Edo Period. It is a “strolling garden” set around a large pond and consistently ranked as one of the top three gardens in Japan. It was easy to see why, with many quirky bridges, Koi carp and turtles in the pond, Wisteria dripping from the trellises, and many little nooks for quiet contemplation. The Koi streamers flying for the upcoming Children’s Day added another splash of colour.

We were back in the coaches to head to the historic district of Kurashiki. Our first stop was at a local restaurant for a traditional bento box lunch. Then we joined locals for another stroll – this time along the canals lined with white-walled Kura (storehouses). These had been repurposed into shops selling a variety of local arts and crafts – and tasty treats. We were lucky to see a bride, dressed in her traditional kimono, floating by on one of the riverboats.

The Ōhara Museum of Art, Japan’s first museum to showcase Western masterpieces, attracted many of us.

The second group started with a visit to the historic Nozaki house in Kojima. It was the former family residence of Nozaki Buzaemon, who operated a large-scale salt production facility in the late Edo period. As we wandered the various rooms and storehouses, we were swept back in time and sensed the prosperity associated with the family’s success.

The street adjacent to Nozaki house is famous for the manufacture of denim and its use in clothing. Initially the fabric was copied from the American product but then improved and was used for imaginative creations which were well-displayed in a series of shops lining the narrow street.

We learned that the area is also important for fruit production, namely peaches and grapes. Some fruit is very expensive in Japan because of the intensive way it is grown to maximize quality. Because of the high cost, this fruit is not consumed frequently but instead is used as a gift when visiting family and friends much the same way westerners use flowers.

In the afternoon we took the ferry to Naoshima, a nearby island famous for its art. Our visit included 2 famous museums: Benesse House Museum and Chichu Art Museum.

Benesse House Museum, also a hotel, housed contemporary art exhibits, some beautiful, others quirky that certainly caused us to stop and appreciate the creativity of Japan’s modern artists. Chichu Art Museum is mostly underground to avoid affecting the beautiful natural scenery, and exhibits inspiring artworks by Claude Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria.

Back aboard it was time for the Captain’s Welcome Cocktails and our chance to meet the heads of the various departments that keep us safe, comfortable, and well fed. To prove the latter, we retired to the dining room for the special Welcome Menu. It was becoming clear to us that the variety and quality of the meals would challenge our waistlines. Oh well.

© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions (from file)
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions

Day 4
Sunday 27 April 2025
Uwajima

The welcoming committee was out in force in Uwajima Port, including two young girls in traditional kimonos. Our golden weather continued as we set out for our morning’s exploration.

The climb to the castle was up a few staircases, those that made it to the top agreed that it was worth it for a chance to see one of the 12 original castles remaining in Japan. Uwajima Castle is small and photogenic in its lovely parklike setting with captivating views over the town. The climb to the top was via more stairs, some so steep that they were essentially ladders.

Tensha-en Garden is a smaller strolling garden. It was built at the time of the Meiji Restoration by the feudal lord from the Date clan. The name “a place where a greater power allows us to enjoy our life” is in keeping with the intended purpose of relaxation in retirement. We all enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere and delicate features during our circuit of the lake.

Some of us visited the Doi Pearl Company where we saw first-hand the process of creating cultured pearls. The second and third generation of this family run business gave us a hands-on demonstration. The highlight for many was seeing the pearl emerge from the oyster under the gentle pressure from the old man’s thumb. This industry involves many local people in all stages of the cultivation of oysters, and the production of the beautiful jewellery tempted many of us in the shop.

Another contingent went to the Yusumizugaura Terraced Potato Fields. After a joyful introduction by one of the local residents, we hiked up the narrow terraces taking in the marvellous ocean views as we climbed to the 80-metre summit. The terraces were originally built from earth, but over time the earth was replaced by dry-stone walls. In times past, the terraces were more widespread than they are today and were at the centre of the local lifestyle. Now, many are over-grown, but it was evident from those remaining that it was, and is, an ingenious use of the very steep slopes backing the village. We were treated to potato chips and croquettes made fresh that morning before resuming our journey back to Heritage Adventurer.

Our welcome had been warm, and our farewell from Uwajima was spectacular. The wharf was full of colourful flags waved by the large crowd. The local school Taiko (Japanese drumming) ensemble was out with their beautiful large drums. They allowed us to play ourselves before they showed us their power and skill. Somehow, they never missed a beat, even the youngest, while the complex rhythms wove together for a dramatic departure.

After lunch, we gathered in the lounge for an Introduction to Japan – etiquette from Hide-san, history from John, and geology from Yulia. In preparation for our visit to Nagasaki, it was then time to learn the art of making Origami paper cranes. We planned to use our cranes as offerings at the peace park to follow the tradition established in memory of Sadako Sasaki, the girl who died because of radiation poisoning after the Hiroshima bombing, after making thousands of paper cranes. She inspired others and turned the paper crane into a symbol and token for peace. We followed the instructions and soon had several strings of cranes ready to be offered at Nagasaki.

Our first recap and briefing introduced us to this portion of our day, a beverage, education relevant to the day’s activities, and preparation for the next day. Dinner was a chance to share stories and meet new friends.

© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions

Day 5
Monday 28 April 2025
Yakushima

Yakushima Island is the wettest part of Japan, so it wasn’t a surprise to look out the window as we reached the port. Still, you can’t have rain forests without rain, and we were here for the rain forest.

We gathered our wet-weather gear and umbrellas and boarded the coaches. The drive was first along the rugged coast and through small villages and towns before we turned toward the misty mountains and entered the UNESCO World Heritage area. The road quickly became narrow and twisty, climbing steeply with many one-lane sections. We arrived at Yakusugi Land in the same steady rain, which continued through most of the morning, breaking into sunshine at the very end.

Undeterred, we set off on the circuits of various lengths that we had selected. The track was normally boardwalks with steps, but, for the longer walkers, some rougher country required scrambling. Either way, we were up-and-down the sides of valleys and crossing the rushing streams. A true expedition adventure. At the stream crossings, and on the mountain tops (when they appeared) we could see the tough granite rock that characterize the island – so different than the normal Japanese volcanic landscape. The forest was composed of many different species of trees, undergrowth, and mosses, but the “Sugi” were the stars. Sometimes incorrectly called Japanese Cedar, Cryptomeria japonica, formed the bulk of the tree cover. It was heavily logged for hundreds of years both for wood shingles and for lumber, but some ancient specimens survived. The oldest “Yakusugi” are estimated to be 5,000+ years old, and we saw several over 1,200 years old.

Some of us made a stop at the Yakusugi Museum where we learned about the natural and human history of the area and saw the beauty of the timber from which the museum was built.

Then, in clearing weather, it was back to Heritage Adventurer for a well-earned lunch before heading along the coast in the other direction. Our destination was Inakahama Beach, Japan’s largest turtle nesting site. The beach was being prepared with restricted areas as the Loggerhead Sea Turtles were due in May. They are only seen at night, but the information from our guides, combined with the wild and gorgeous sand, surf and rocks made for an excellent afternoon out.

After a full day we retired to the lounge for refreshments, recap and briefing before treating out taste buds to another excellent dinner.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions

Day 6
Tuesday 29 April 2025
Nagasaki

After enjoying breakfast, we soon saw the quirky city skyline and the hills surrounding Nagasaki as we boarded the coaches for our excursions.

For some, the first destination was the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum. There we saw the devastating effect of the bomb dropped at 11:02am on August 9, 1945. The exhibits made clear the tragedy that exploded on that warm summer day, and the destruction and radiation that have continued to affect the place and the people for decades – even until today. A short stroll through the city brought us to the Nagasaki Peace Park. This is a sculpture garden where many different aspects of the population united to show their commitment to peace. We were able to leave our offering of paper cranes near the principal statue to show our support for this noble cause. As we returned to the port for lunch, we could see that Nagasaki has become a vibrant and picturesque metropolis with colourful shops, clacking trams, and a busy populace. To get a better view we walked up the hill to the Glover Garden with its iconic western houses and lovely gardens.

The rest took a longer drive into the countryside, past rice fields, and up a winding mountain road to Mount Unzen. We rode the Unzen Ropeway for extensive sea views, made better as we climbed to the summit for vistas in both directions. Back down the ropeway, we entered ‘Unzen Hell’. In this geothermal area we walked around boiling and pungent sulphur springs and hissing plumes of steam, giving ample evidence of Japan’s volcanic forces. Lunch was a “hot pot” of local cuisine.

In the afternoon, all of us visited the famous district of Dejima Island. We assembled in the upper floor of the Captain’s House for a traditional Geisha performance. We saw up-close the lovely kimonos and graceful dancing of the two performers with a Shamisen player for music, with fans and cherry blossoms as props. Then, the bravest among us were added to the musical ensemble on drums and bells, and as dancers, to try to follow the motions of our hostesses. Everyone enjoyed our efforts.

Dejima was the only point of contact for Japan with Europe for the entire Edo Period, when Japan was closed to the world. The district has been faithfully restored, and, with many displays and excellent English interpretive signage, we were able to see how this small island played an important part in preserving links that blossomed in the eventual opening of Japan.

As we arrived back to our trusty expedition vessel and cast off, we were treated to the farewell performance by the almost-all-girl Nagasaki High School Brass Band. From Indiana Jones to We Are the World, they showed real spirit, talent and enthusiasm in what was a rousing sendoff.

The day was not yet complete as after dinner a special Kimono Demonstration was held. The history was discussed then our Japanese guide, Hannah-san, and a volunteer went through each of the many layers of robes and obis to explain the special cultural significance of this uniquely Japanese garment.
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions

Day 7
Wednesday 30 April 2025
Fukuoka

We were greeted by the start of another lovely summer’s day as we arrived at Hakata Port in Fukuoka City. This day marked the first time in the voyage that we could choose among three optional excursions, instead of the normal two. As ever, there were no bad choices. All of us made the drive through, and overlooking, Fukuoka and Kokura cities with a stretch of wooded hillsides in between, and visited the Kokura Castle, a truly impressive reconstruction of a feudal period citadel. We were welcomed by friendly Samurai Warriors and tried making our own strand of Kokura-Ori weaving. For lunch we enjoyed a double-decker bento box with a wide assortment of local delicacies.

The other attractions of the day included Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine which featured several smaller shrines and lovely gardens across the red arched bridge. We continued to Nanzo-in Temple, to view the enormous brass reclining Buddha statue, one of the largest in the world. We entered to see a relic of one of the bones from The Buddha. For something completely different, we stopped at the TOTO Museum, being the makers of the famous Japanese toilets. Perhaps surprisingly, the “toilet museum” was fascinating, including a full rundown of the development of this essential part of everyday life, plus information on the company’s commitment to creating a sustainable society and outreach to support the improvement in hygiene in developing countries.

For some, a highlight of the day was the Kawachi Fujien Wisteria Garden. We were lucky to visit this garden near the peak season of the blooms. Our jaws dropped as the sea of vibrant flowers of many colours filled our eyes, and the sweet aroma filled our nostrils. We carried along up the tunnels of hanging blossoms in convoy with the many local people finding places for family, or sweetheart, photos, or to simply sit and enjoy. The gardeners among us all agreed that we had seen wisteria before in many places – but never anything like this. It was truly indescribable.

The local Tanga Market gave us another chance to mingle with the locals, and to take home Koi streamers for our own versions of Children’s Day.

For others, a visit to the Ashiyagama no Sato Iron Works showed a slice of Edo Period technology as modern craftsmen recreated the feudal process of casting the delicate iron pots used to boil the water for the tea ceremony.

This was an exciting day, but wasn’t over yet, as we remained at the dock for a barbeque dinner. The mild evening had us all on the aft deck, with the lights of Hakata Port all around, as we laughed and shared memories. It was a wonderful, multi-faceted, day.

© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions

Day 8
Thursday 1 May 2025
Hagi

Today we had our first, and likely only, Zodiac cruise of the voyage. With Heritage Adventurer anchored offshore, we followed our briefing instructions, went down the gangway, and enjoyed the ride across the sea, through the breakwater and onto the wharf.

So, it was onto the coaches and off to explore the area. The first group crossed the city and country to reach the limestone region of the Akiyoshido Cave, one of Japan’s largest and most impressive caves. Upon arrival, we headed to the time tunnel, descending through the theme park-style art into the natural world of the cave. Often a limestone feature or formation was highlighted by lights, with recorded information available in four languages. The cavernous nature of the underground system became apparent as we joined the main river, where terraces of creamy-white limestone filled with water provided reflections of the overhanging stalactites. At the exit, we selected between the 100+ flavours of ice cream. For lunch, we had the choice of eating at the local fish market or back aboard.

The afternoon activities for the other group, and the whole day for the rest of us, was spent in Hagi city. We explored the ruins of the Hagi Castle, following the moats and stone foundations to where the keep had been. We had seen a few castles on previous landings, so these ruins evoked our imagination of 400 years previously, with the ancient remnant gardens and old teahouse, making an enthralling experience. While at this location we also toured the house of an important samurai.

A quick transit took us to visit the Kikuya Residence, the home of a wealthy merchant from the Edo Period. This traditional house and garden, full of artefacts from the time, gave a glimpse of what life was like for a close friend and supporter of the local Daimyo, or lord.

Another stop was the Yoshika Taibi Memorial Museum and workshop. We learned the story of the introduction of Hagi-ware (or Hagi yaki) pottery from Korea, and the transformation from daily-use
items to art by Taibi Yoshika, the founder of this pottery business. We saw his stunning works in the museum and the potters at their wheels. Finally, in the shop, many of us took the opportunity to support the Japanese economy!

For something completely different, we stopped to explore Tokoji Temple, an impressive old Buddhist temple and the site to the tombs of the odd-numbered generations of the Mori dynasty. The grounds featured more than 500 stone lanterns which are candle-lit every night.

After a shuttle to bring us back on board, we cleared the immigration formalities to exit Japan and started our crossing of the Sea of Japan to South Korea. The galley team put on a special Japanese-themed dinner to add to our immersion in this culture.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions

Day 9
Friday 2 May 2025
South Korea

Our crossing of the Sea of Japan was smooth and South Korea welcomed us with a cool and sunny day. After immigration processes, we headed out to explore Gyeongju or Busan. We passed through the active heart of Ulsan, “Hyundai City” and into the countryside.

The Gyeongju group made their first stop at the burial tombs of The Kingdom of the Heavenly Horses. The Silla empire had ruled this region, and much of the Korean Peninsula, for a thousand years up to circa 1000AD. Hundreds of their rulers were buried in large mounds, only a few of which have been excavated. We entered one of those to view the golden treasures that had been discovered inside. The crowns and ornaments were delicate and finely crafted. Next, we took a short trip took us to the Woljeonggyo Bridge. This is the largest wooden bridge in South Korea and an impressive reconstruction of the original with was built to access the royal palace in 760AD. From there, it was off to lunch at a fun, huge buffet restaurant. It called itself a “sushi bar” but the selection included much more than sushi. We sampled all the various options and most went back for more.

We learned that May 5^th will be the celebration of both the Buddha’s birthday and Children’s Day. When we reached Bulguksa Temple the crowds were streaming in to enjoy the splendour of the beautiful grounds and temples. Originally built in the 8th century, but destroyed, the temple has been faithfully restored with detailed paintings and decorative motifs throughout. On this day, it was accented with a vast array of colourful paper lanterns for the occasion. We watched families writing their prayers and wishes and attaching them to the lanterns hanging from racks in the plazas.

For a bit of relief from the hustle and bustle, our last stop was at the Taehwagang River Bamboo Forest. We again joined the locals as they enjoyed the park set in what had once been a polluted river.

Those choosing to visit Busan, learned that people living here are among the wealthier citizens in South Korea, because of the relatively high manufacturing wages and advantages that families of workers enjoy, such as university grants.

Our first stop was at the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple. The place was bustling, though our guide assured us that it gets much busier than today. The walking trail was dotted with small shrines, Buddhas, stone statues, which included a row of horoscope animals carved in stone and golden pigs thought to bring good luck. A set of steep stairs led to the temple bridge. Bridges are symbolic of the divide between Earth and the holiness of the temple. Many decided to rub the belly of the Buddha statue offering the hope of a grandson. Stalls along the return offered a chance to buy a souvenir as well as sample a variety of treats and drinks.

At the 100-story building, BUSAN X the SKY, a super-fast elevator transported us to the top for an unmatched view over the landscape, the beach, and out to sea.

By now, everyone had built up a good appetite; time to stop for lunch. The lunch buffet was extraordinary. Specializing in seafood, there were dozens of fish, shellfish, and octopus’ dishes. The sushi bar was also a highlight. Much fun was had discussing favourite flavours and, on occasion, trying to identify ingredients.

With full bellies, we headed to Gamcheon Culture Village. Once a slum, this small neighbourhood has transformed itself into an eccentric streetscape lined with souvenir shops, craft galleries, food stalls, cafes and eateries. Built on a hillside, there were many retaining walls, all painted in bright colours. Particularly popular was a statue of the Little Prince, the neighbourhood’s mascot likely due to Antoine de Saint-Exupery’s charming and wise little character’s message of faith and good will.

Our final stop was the Jagalchi Fish Market, the biggest of its kind in South Korea. Our stop took us to a modern building whose roof takes the shape of seagulls in flight. We saw vendors selling seafood of all sorts, most living in tanks, to eager customers, both individuals and restaurant representatives. We were told that one can choose a fish and have it prepared in a restaurant on the second level. We were once again reminded of all the ocean offers us and how important it is to be good stewards of its rich resources.

The drive back to our trusty expedition vessel offered a chance for a well-deserved rest after a full day enjoyed by all. After taking time to relax, we enjoyed a recap and briefing as Heritage Adventurer cast off and sailed out through the busy harbour to start our return to Japan after an eventful day in South Korea.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© Heritage Expeditions

Day 10
Saturday 3 May 2025
Sakaiminato/Matsue

Crossing the Sea of Japan allowed for a sleep-in, a leisurely breakfast, and a bit of welcome downtime. By mid-morning we continued our education with Tina’s presentation on The Essence of Japanese Gardens, before an early lunch and immigration back into Japan. From there, the normal rhythm of this expedition resumed, and we boarded the coaches for today’s activities.

Some of us went first to the Adachi Gardens and Museum of Art. Founded in 1978, Adachi is a garden and art gallery of international renown having been awarded the title of “Best Garden in Japan” 22 consecutive years by the Journal of Japanese Gardening. On the ground floor, the garden was created to be viewed through the windows as living works of art. One floor up, the art gallery was completely dedicated to the works of Yokoyama Taikan, a core member of the modern Japanese art world in the 20th century. To mark the 55th anniversary of the museum their full collection of his work was displayed. Superb on both levels.

Matsue Castle, one of the 12 remaining original castles in Japan, was only a short ride away. The climb to the castle rewarded us with photo opportunities of samurai warriors in costume. Walking up the steep stairways within the castle showed the formidable structure of beams and rafters dating back to the 1600s. The open-air gallery at the top gave stunning views across the city. We have seen many castles, but this one will find a special place in our memories.

The group traveling to Mount Daisen could clearly see the mountain towering in the distance as we left Heritage Adventurer. Our two local guides directed us along the winding paths through the Beech Forest for a visit to Daisenji Temple, and then up the final staircase to Ōgamiyama Shrine for great views at the summit. Along the way we learned the properties of the various plant species, and the history of the Buddhist monastery that was once the home of more than 3,000 soldier-monks. Both the shrine and the temple featured outstanding wooden architecture, while numerous small statues honour the Jizo Bodhisattva, protector of the souls of children who died as infants.

We all came together for a reception and exploration of the Yuushien Gardens. We started with a selection of superb Sushi with tea or coffee and then had the gardens nearly to ourselves. The bright and beautiful Peony flowers were eye catching and worthy of our attention. Still, the delicate beauty of the central red bridge, the moss-covered banks, the dry rock spaces and the central pond area of this exquisite garden somehow overshadowed the showy blossoms. We have seen many gardens, but this one will find a special place in our memories.

As the light rain set in, we made our way back to Heritage Adventurer for the Captain’s Farewell Cocktails. We had the chance to thank many of the members of the crew that have made our voyage so special, before heading to the dining room for another delectable meal. Can it really be true that tomorrow will be our last full day?

© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Minty, Heritage Expeditions

Day 11
Sunday 4 May 2025
Kanazawa

The warm weather continued as we broke into three groups for our selected activities in and around Kanazawa.

Option 1 started with a bus ride, but we were delighted that soon after we left the port, the city lay behind us and we were treated to verdant hillsides leading to the mountains.

The first of two stops today took us to Ogimachi Village, known as Shirakawa-go, a designated UNESCO World Heritage site due to its important role in preserving traditional Japanese houses that were common in this area about 400 years ago. These unique houses feature roofs thickly thatched with pampas grass or rice straw. The houses themselves are constructed in a unique way featuring beams, posts and poles that are tied together with hefty ropes. No nails are used in the building of these homes, making them strong, yet flexible. Shops lined the streets, and we were lucky enough to discover several Cherry Trees still in blossom due to the cooler mountain temperatures.

By now we had worked up an appetite and a delicious Japanese lunch awaited featuring a variety of traditional local delicacies including a hot pot, a whole roasted fish in a salt crust and tempura vegetables.

We ventured on a 2.5km walk along an old road, which offered spectacular views of mountains, waterfalls, an icy-blue river, and hillsides covered in resplendent shades of green.

A short drive took us to Suganuma Village, a smaller, quainter, version of Ogimachi also featuring Gassho-zukuri houses. We parked in a spot overlooking this charming village dotted by rice and vegetables fields set against a backdrop of giant Japanese Cedar Forest. Frogs in the rice paddies croaked as we wandered the streets. Surprisingly, there was an elevator built into the mountain, giving us a welcome transport back to the top of the hill where out bus was waiting to take us back to Heritage Adventurer, tired but content with this wonderful excursion.

Option 2 drove south through a rice and wheat farming area to Yunokuni no Mori, a traditional handicrafts village. The village was created by relocating old-style houses onto a hillside site, with each house dedicated to a particular traditional craft. After walking along the main street to see what was available, we each selected our craft. We tried Japanese paper making, glasswork, gold inlay chopstick etching, buckwheat noodle making, and more, as we learned from skilled artisans of the time-honoured traditions. The grounds made for a pleasant stroll, and the shopping at each house offered high quality merchandise from that craft, which many found irresistible.

Option 3 began with a visit to Omicho Market. Kanazawa’s main market since 1603, and full of fresh seafood, including oysters and crabs, and many other tempting local delicacies. Nearby was the Nagamachi Samurai District which we explored on foot. This a historic district once home to the elite samurai of the city, where narrow streets are lined with traditional wooden houses. Also nearby, but completely different, was the Kutaniyaki Art Museum. Here we browsed the displays in the shop for a closer look at the work of the artists with vivid colours and intricate designs.

Our day concluded with a Gold Leaf Pasting Experience in the Geisha District where we used the gold leaf that Kanazawa has produced for more than 400 years to create our own personalized chopsticks to take home.

Multiple options visited the famed Kanazawa Castle and Kenroku-en Garden. The Castle is vast and set in large parklike grounds. While not original, the rebuild, which is still in progress, is being done using historically accurate techniques and materials. The gardens are one of Japan’s most celebrated, always being ranked in the nation’s top three strolling gardens. Dating back to the 17th century, it combines six characteristics of spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water sources and magnificent views, embodying the ideal garden attributes.

After another bustling day we gathered for one last evening in the lounge. Not for a normal recap and briefing but for a special recap of the entire voyage – the slideshow. Steve somehow managed to encapsulate the expedition in a series of images that showed how much we have seen and done. What a wonderful way to remember and share this Discover the Islands of Japan expedition. We headed off to dinner with the memories fresh in our minds to laugh and remember all the special highlights.

Day 12
Monday 5 May 2025
Kanazawa and departure

Our adventure came to an end as we put our luggage outside our doors before enjoying one last breakfast together and exchanging contact information with new friends. Time then for a final walk down the gangway and one last farewell to the Expedition Team as we headed off on new adventures, secure in the knowledge that this expedition, and our time together onboard Heritage Adventurer, will linger in our memories for a very long time.