HA250103: Unseen Fiordland & Stewart Island: Exploring New Zealand's Remote Backyard
UNSEEN FIORDLAND
&
STEWART ISLAND
on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER
3 - 8 January 2025
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 1
3rd January 2025
Queenstown
Our Unseen Fiordland adventure began in Queenstown, New Zealand’s world-famous alpine resort town, as we arrived from around the globe. We checked into our accommodations and met fellow guests alongside some of our Expedition Team in the lobby. Later that evening, we enjoyed a welcome dinner where everyone soon became fast friends. The Expedition Team then gave a brief introduction and welcome to prepare us for our upcoming adventure.
Day 2
4th January 2025
Bluff/Stewart Island
At breakfast, we had the chance to reconnect with our fellow adventurers before we boarded coaches for the transfer through the pastoral countryside of Southland to Bluff Harbour to begin our adventure. We boarded a ferry arriving at Stewart Island, and had the opportunity to explore Oban, with options to visit the history museum, stroll the many bays, enjoy a coffee, fish and chips or perhaps a beer at the local pub.
After a delicious lunch on board, we hopped on the Zodiacs to visit nearby Ulva Island. We met our guides and set off on a 90-minute exploration around the tracks on this stunning predator-free Island. Ulva Island is a prime example of a lowland Podocarp Forest with plenty of interesting plants and many New Zealand birds which thrive here due to the absence of predators. It allows us to observe some of these special species including Saddleback, Yellowhead, South Island Robin, Weka and Kākāriki, most not found on mainland New Zealand. The history is fascinating. We learned about the exotic trees planted over 150 years ago - to the leaves from the Muttonbird Scrub once used as official postcards until the early 1970’s.
This evening, we had a recap of today’s highlights and a briefing on tomorrow's plans for Fiordland. Over dinner, we met with our new travelling companions, quickly becoming fast friends.
© P. Martin, Heritage Expeditions
© P. Martin, Heritage Expeditions
© P. Martin, Heritage Expeditions
© C Finch, Image from file, Heritage Expeditions
Day 3
5th January 2025
Fiordland, Dusky Sound
We awoke to a beautiful blue-sky day with little cloud as we entered Tamatea/Dusky Sound to anchor offshore from Pigeon Island. We embarked on a Zodiac cruise to explore Facile Harbour and learned the story of New Zealand’s first shipwreck in 1795 - the Endeavour. We immersed ourselves in stunning scenery as steep-sided mountains loomed above us and dense Beech and Podocarp Forest hung down to the water’s edge.
Following our cruise, we were dropped ashore onto predator-free Pigeon Island, a lovely little cove with crystal clear water. We heard the remarkable story of Richard Henry, considered the ‘Godfather of Conservation’, and his work on this remote island. Little remains of his boatshed or house, aside from the chimney, a few broken bottles and glass slides. A short walk to a lovely viewpoint along the track offered fabulous views towards nearby Anchor Island. Over a wonderful BBQ lunch on the open decks, Heritage Adventurer repositioned to Anchor Island. The scenery was breathtaking, and we spent the afternoon exploring the Many Islands by Zodiac. We detoured into Luncheon Cove (named by James Cook) to visit the site of New Zealand’s first European Settlement and where the first boat was built. In the sheltered bays, we observed several New Zealand Fur Seal mothers and pups, and nearby rocks were home to Spotted and Little Black Shags.
Those not cruising walked the track on predator-free Anchor Island, home to a third of the world’s population of the endangered Kākāpō. Through a remote terrain, we had spectacular sightings of Mohua/Yellowhead, Tieke/Saddleback and Kākā (the forest parrot). At Lake Kirirua, Pied Shags were roosting and swimming in the lake. When we looked closer at the lake, we noticed many large eels, with those thinking of swimming changing their minds! The weather was fabulous for the walk, and we returned to the landing site, enjoying more bird encounters, before boarding the Zodiacs back to Heritage Adventurer. Those wanting to swim at the lake chose instead to swim in the sea at the landing. A great day for a swim, by all accounts!
After our briefing and recaps, we adjourned to dinner, where a large pod of very energetic Bottlenose Dolphins was putting on a great display of acrobatics. Heritage Adventurer departed Dusky Sound through Acheron Passage, past Resolution Island, and out to the Tasman Sea.
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© P. Todd, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 4
6th January 2025
Fiordland, Milford Sound/Doubtful Sound
An early morning ‘Bingbong’ from Expedition Leader Dan announced we were about to enter Milford Sound/Piopiotahi. We couldn’t believe our luck as we were welcomed by another stunning day and ready to enjoy a spectacular sunrise cruise. Milford Sound is, no doubt, one of the most impressive of Fiordland’s fiords, with towering snowcapped peaks, hanging valleys, spectacular Stirling and Bowen waterfalls and the mighty Mitre Peak.
After a leisurely breakfast, we re-positioned to Doubtful Sound, enjoying presentations by Rob Franklin on Lost in Fiordland and Gen hosted a Q&A with two artists on board and Rob Vennell (author and museum curator), The Forgotten Forest, all about the weird and wonderful world of mushrooms, moulds and more! Following another delightful lunch, we prepared for the afternoon’s excursions. First away were the walkers who trekked from Grono Bay to The Gut Bay, all on Secretary Island. The verdant bush impressed us with natural beauty and the dense understory told the tale of regeneration now that the deer have been removed from the island. We enjoyed the bird song and delighted in the sight of Brown Creepers, Kākā, Kākāriki, Piwakawaka, Bellbirds and Tūī. At The Gut, some of us enjoyed swimming in the bay before returning to our trusty expedition vessel.
Others enjoyed a Zodiac cruise around Blanket Bay, visiting the crayfish hotel and waterfall, including Bauza Island, and down the sound along the coast, taking in the beautiful scenery. Those on the optional helicopter ride had a choice between a short or long flight, including a stop at a high peak alongside a mountain tarn. The day could not have been better to enjoy the magnificent views of the sound.
Back on board, we had a presentation from museum curator Rob, who had us all interested in lichens and mosses. The afternoon finished with cocktails by the pool and a lovely farewell from our Captain and all the amazing crew on board who have made our journey so memorable.
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 5
7th January 2025
Fiordland, Dusky Sound
Fiordland brought its low fog as we awoke to cloud-draped mountains. After breakfast, those choosing the Lake Forster walk were dropped at Astronomer’s Point where the track starts. It was a lovely moss-laden track following a creek to a picturesque lake, named after Captain Cook’s botanists on board the Resolution, the ‘Forster brothers’. Thankfully, we returned to the comforts of Heritage Adventurer just as the first drop of rain for the voyage started.
The rest of us enjoyed a short Zodiac cruise, including visits to Cascade Falls, Astronomer’s Point, where Captain James Cook had his ship for 5 weeks during his second voyage in 1773. The time here was spent resting his men after a long voyage in the Southern Ocean, they also brewed some Rimu and Manuka beer, another New Zealand first. It was at nearby Indian/Mamaku Island that Cook had his first encounter with Māori. Back on board, just as the rain set in, we enjoyed a relaxing lunch before afternoon presentations for those who wished to learn more. To cap off a fantastic voyage, we enjoyed a slide show presentation and celebrated our journey with a final feast with new friends.
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 6
8th January 2025
Port of Bluff
Today, we arrived in Bluff signalling the end of our voyage. After a final breakfast together, we said our farewells before departing to various destinations. It has been an incredible voyage exploring Stewart Island and Fiordland. We will depart with lasting memories, friendships and an inspiration to continue travelling to unexplored destinations.
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
