HA241218: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean: New Zealand and Australia's Subantarctic Islands

GALAPAGOS OF THE SOUTHERN OCEAN

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

18 - 29 December 2024

Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions

Day 1

Wednesday 18 December 2024

Queenstown

Our Galapagos of the Southern Ocean adventure began in Queenstown, New Zealand’s iconic alpine resort town, as we arrived from around the globe. We checked into our accommodations and met fellow guests and some of our Expedition Team in the lobby. Later that evening we gathered to enjoy a welcome dinner where everyone soon became fast friends, and the Expedition Team gave a brief introduction and welcome speech outlaying the adventure awaiting us.

Day 2

Thursday 19 December 2024

Queenstown to Bluff and departure

At breakfast, we had the chance to reconnect with our fellow adventurers before exploring this bustling adventure town. We headed to the waterfront, gardens and mall - doing last-minute shopping or exploring the lake shore.

After lunch we hopped on coaches for the transfer through the pastoral countryside of Southland to Bluff Harbour, to board our beautiful new home for the upcoming adventure, Heritage Adventurer. We had the chance to explore, then undertook the lifeboat drill before checking out the multiple vantage points as we pulled away from Bluff Wharf and the adventure began! Next, we were called into the Lounge for our first opportunity to meet our Expedition Leader, Dan, who talked to us about life on board and our journey ahead. Hotel Director, Erik, introduced us to life aboard, and Dan introduced the Expedition Team – more than 20 experts who will help us get the most out of our expedition. To finish off we were given a briefing on the Zodiacs, which will be our main way to get ashore and closely explore the wildlife of the Subantarctic Islands.

We had our first chance to sample the delights provided by the galley. Next was the Mud Rooms to ensure that our new boots fit properly and that we would be ready for our first excursion tomorrow morning.

Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions

Day 3

Friday 20 December 2024

Snares Islands

After experiencing the ‘motion of the ocean’ during the night, we awoke to find Heritage Adventurer heading to North-East Island at The Snares. As we headed out onto the decks, we saw a vast number of sea birds, mainly the very dark Sooty Shearwater/Tītī. Our Captain navigated Heritage Adventurer close as we watched, in awe, at the sheer number of birds surrounding us. The Expedition Team pointed out the ‘Penguin Slide’, and even from our trusty expedition vessel, we saw several Snares Crested Penguins standing on the rock face. The Sooty Shearwaters, Diving Petrels, Giant Petrels, Cape Petrels and Albatross swirled around us in huge numbers. On the exposed northeast coast of the island, we cruised around the island into the sheltered western side while we finished our breakfast.

Dan informed us that the conditions weren't suitable to operate the Zodiacs. We went to the ‘Penguin Slide’ to observe the action again before heading to the Western Chain, the group of islands to the southwest of the main island. Here we saw more seabirds battling the strong winds, including Salvin’s Albatross and Buller’s Albatross, as well as huge numbers of Sooty Shearwaters and Diving Petrels, Fairy Prions and others. After we completed our transit of the Snares Islands we departed for the Auckland Islands. Matt Jones gave a presentation on the birds on the Southern Ocean, which gave us a lot of helpful hints on identifying many of the birds we might see along the way. At 1100, Ewen gave a presentation on taking photos on your phone, which gave us helpful hints on how to use our phones to take better pictures.

After lunch, we gathered in the lounge as Dan shared the bio-security procedures we had to follow. After that, we cleaned our outerwear and had it inspected in preparation for upcoming landings. We will be careful with the strict biosecurity protocols to prevent the transmission of invasive species or diseases between island groups. As the bio-security procedures wrapped up, Matt Darling gave a great presentation on the geology of the Subantarctic region. The bar was open, so we had a chance to share a beverage during the Recap and Dan’s briefing on our plans for tomorrow. The day was capped off with the Captain’s Welcome Cocktails during which Captain Jacek introduced the heads of the various departments before we went to the restaurant to enjoy the Captain’s Welcome Dinner.

Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions

Day 4

Saturday 21 December 2024

Port Ross, and Carnley Harbour Auckland Islands

The seas calmed as we entered Port Ross, at the northern end of Auckland Island. Around 0600 we anchored of Erebus Cove, where the settlement of Hardwicke was established in 1849. It became the shortest-lived British Colony, abandoned only 3 years later. We enjoyed an early breakfast before we boarded the Zodiacs for the first time and went ashore. Dan greeted us on the beach and gave us a briefing on our options for the walk. The longer walk was challenging, so some explored the former settlement where the gravestones of some unfortunate settlers and shipwrecked sailors were buried, as well as other points of interest in the Hardwicke Settlement. The Southern Rātā was flowering, so the forest had a brilliant red colour on the outside. We saw a New Zealand Sea Lion swimming near the landing, showing some interest in the activity. While ashore Tūī and Bellbird were enjoying the Rātā flowers. As we returned to our trusty expedition vessel, we saw several Prions feeding on the water nearby.

Once back on board, we sought the comfort of a nice hot drink and a biscuit from the jar. There was lots of chatter as we discussed our morning experience. It was anchor-up, as we sailed towards Carnley Harbour. We were entertained by Chris, who gave a presentation on the Māori and Moriori and how they came to be on the Auckland Islands when the first ships of the Hardwicke Settlement arrived. During lunch, we entered Carnley Harbour, and the conditions quickly settled down to a pleasant calm. Dan and some of the Expedition Team went to assess conditions for the walk near South Cape, and we learned we were all set for the cruise for those wanting to go. We prepared for an afternoon ashore, with a packed snack, and set off in the Zodiacs. There was no real track, just some pig trails through the tight scrub. Once there, the views were magnificent, and the White-capped Albatross were visible sitting on their nests and many of them flew right by our heads, just incredible.

While the South Cape walkers were away, the rest of us stayed on Heritage Adventurer for a ship cruise into Carnley Harbour, right up into North Arm with great commentary from the Expedition Team. At 1600, with Heritage Adventurer now near Adams Island, we set off for a Zodiac cruise near Adams Island. There were some great sightings of Yellow-eyed Penguins, Auckland Island Teals, Giant Petrels and other birds. As the weather turned, we returned to our home away from home around 1745. Afterwards, we all reconvened on board to freshen up and enjoy the recap.

During dinner, the ship headed out of Carnley Harbour to Macquarie Island.

Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions

Day 5

Sunday 22 December 2024

At Sea enroute to Macquarie Island

With a sea day ahead many of us took the chance for a sleep-in. Once we emerged, it was to Heritage Adventurer gliding through much calmer seas. The first presentation was from Rachael on Fascinating Facts about Penguins followed by Robyn’s talk on The Sealing Islands.

Because of our landing at Enderby Island, and our upcoming visit to Macquarie Island, we were required to clean our gear and have it inspected by the team. At 1530, there was a fabulous afternoon tea laid out in the lounge, and we had an introduction from Mat about the True Young Explorers while each of them told us a bit about themselves. Chris gave us a presentation on Sea Lions, then the bar was open in the Lounge so we could have a drink and sit back to enjoy the presentation, then the Recap and Briefing gave us a chance to share stories and catch up with new friends. We continued to be spoiled by the Galley and Dining Room teams before we headed off to bed enjoying the gentle ocean.

Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions

Day 6

Monday 23 December 2024

Macquarie Island, The Isthmus

As the dawn broke, we saw a faint outline of Macquarie Island. Following breakfast, and clearance from the Australian Authorities, we got ready to go ashore in this wildlife paradise. For only the third time in Heritage Expeditions history, we landed on the Western side of the Isthmus, where the Australian Antarctic Division has its base. As soon as our Zodiacs touched the sandy beach, we could see a whole lot of wildlife! Penguins and Elephant Seals in all directions. There were mainly King Penguins, but we saw Gentoo Penguins coming ashore, the occasional Royal Penguin, and the adorable Elephant Seal weaners.

We were split into groups of 15, and our Expedition Guides took us across the Isthmus, where we saw many Gentoos nesting, then along the road to the Razorback Lookout track. The Tasmanian Parks Rangers were welcoming and enjoyed a chat with us sharing information about living in such a remote location. Despite the cold wind, the view from the Razorback was great, but the wildlife on the beach called us back to the lower levels and we continued our walk, with faces covered in huge smiles due to the antics and charm of the penguins and Elephant Seals. The sights, sounds, and smells left a large imprint in our minds, but our time was up at the Isthmus, and we had to clean our boots, load into the Zodiacs and return to Heritage Adventurer with memories that will last a lifetime.

After another tasty lunch, our Captain had us underway for a transit along the west coast of Macquarie Island. With only a gentle westerly swell and unusual easterly winds, the conditions were perfect. We marvelled at cliffs seldom seen, as well as the birds flying by. We enjoyed the commentary from the Expedition Team who pointed out the regular groups of nesting penguins along the shoreline. We also stopped to observe Orca, who had made a kill, but they didn’t hang around much for us. As we rounded Southwest Point, we observed Black-browed Albatross, both on the water and nesting on the island. From there we turned north to cruise the largest Royal Penguin colony at Hurd Point with over 100,000 birds, then continued up the east coast to the largest King Penguin Colony at Lusitania Bay, with over 200,000 penguins. At Lusitania Bay, we saw the digesters left from the oiling era of the late 1800s now surrounded by hundreds of thousands of birds. We also saw more Orca in this vicinity, and Heritage Adventurer turned around a few times to enjoy the best possible views.

After we cruised up to Sandy Bay, we dropped our evening anchorage. We had a briefing on our plans for tomorrow and several recaps of interesting topics, before we went up on deck 6 for a BBQ dinner. It was a bit chilly outside, but we put on our jackets and braved the conditions and enjoyed a brilliant BBQ just off the beach of Macquarie Island. How amazing!

Day 7

Tuesday 24 December

Macquarie Island, Sandy Bay

The night was spent at anchor at Sandy Bay, we woke to clouds still hanging low on the hills of Macquarie Island. After the team assessed the landing conditions, we were informed that our excursion would go ahead as planned. We visited a nearby Rockhopper Penguin colony, then landed at Sandy Bay. There was a surge on the beach, but our expert Zodiac drivers and shore team ensured we landed safely. After a quick briefing, we explored to our hearts' content, and what an experience that was! Being among all the King Penguins, Royal Penguins and Elephant Seals was a mind-blowing experience. The penguins would come right up to us, we had to move out of the way to avoid getting too close and the Elephant Seal weaners looked like they would love a cuddle. They were all very noisy and seemed to be chatting to us and certainly didn’t mind us being there at all. We walked to the King Penguin colony and watched the mass of birds, or walked along the beach, past hundreds of penguins and Elephant Seal weaners to the boardwalk. This gave us access to the beach above to see the megaherb fields, which were growing in abundance now that the rabbits have been eradicated. We had two hours to explore at our leisure and there was a lot to take in, some of us had tears in our eyes at the beautiful magnitude of it all, like living in a nature documentary. The sheer quantity of wildlife gave all our emotions a roller-coaster ride like never before.

We were all back on board for lunch, then Dan arranged some extra time ashore, for those who wished to return to Sandy Bay. So, at 1630 we returned to the beach for another hour. It was thrilling to land once again on the sloping sandy beach and be greeted by the penguins and Elephant Seal pups who seemed keen on helping us get ashore. The weather continued to be favourable, with the cloud jostling with the sun for who would spend the most time in our photos. Although it was cool, we were warmed by the sight of the penguins and Elephant Seals in their natural environment doing what they enjoy most. All too soon our time was up on Macquarie Island, we boarded the Zodiacs returning to the comforts of Heritage Adventurer full to the brim with wonderful memories. Back on board we took our time to clean our boots and gear to ensure we were not bio-security hazards before settling back into life on board. The crew weighed anchor, and we steamed off towards Campbell Island. After our usual briefing and recap, we enjoyed another fabulous meal in the restaurant recalling our adventures and excitement of the last couple of days. We sure did sleep well.

Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions
Image © E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions

Day 8

Wednesday 25 December 2024

Christmas Day! At Sea enroute to Campbell Island

The morning found Heritage Adventurer crossing the deep blue sea with grey skies and a slight swell– conditions that persisted throughout the day. Brunch was a casual and extended feast, a theme for the day. It was a terrific tribute to the team in the galley. After some excellent birdwatching, Pam gave a presentation about what things may have been like had Charles Darwin come to the Subantarctic Islands instead of the Galapagos Islands. Nigel Marvin gave a light-hearted presentation on his life in nature documentaries next, then we had an early briefing on our plans for Campbell Island tomorrow.

Dinner started early, and it was an extended dining extravaganza to top off our awesome Christmas Day at sea. The range and amount of eating options left us bulging at the seams, but the crew looked after us so wonderfully. After dinner, we were back in the lounge for a fun quiz, hosted by two of the Matts, dressed ridiculously. The quiz was fun and challenging, we all had a lot of laughs and learnt a fair bit.

Image © H. Dohn, Heritage Expeditions
Image © H. Dohn, Heritage Expeditions

Day 9

Thursday 26 December 2024

Campbell Island

As we cruised into Perseverance Harbour, we ate breakfast and took in the spectacular sights of Campbell Island. The sea was calm, and the low cloud hung on the scrub and tussock covered hills like a thick woollen blanket. Those departing on the all-day walk collected their lunch packs. First away were the small group walking the Northwest Bay Circuit. A group of 11 went for the round-trip walk of 12 kilometres across to the western side of Campbell Island; involving a double crossing of the 220m high ridge to and from Northwest Bay. We climbed steadily up through low fell fields, Dracophyllum shrublands and tussock grasslands toward the ridge, still invisible in the low fog. Antarctic Terns chittered overhead, and we stopped often to admire tiny ground orchids, Gentians and Black-eyed Daisies beside the spongy, sphagnum moss track. Just below the summit ridge the megaherbs grew in profusion, made even more exotic by the enormous white Southern Royal Albatross nesting amongst them.

Once on the ridge the mist cleared to reveal spectacular vistas of the limestone cliffs leading down towards Northwest Bay. We headed below the cliffs, ending in a tiny limestone cleft of the creek bed, which took us onto a bouldery shoreline. A handful of Elephant Seals lay about on the rocks, barely acknowledging our presence. However, the resident New Zealand Sea Lion ensured we knew he owned the bay.

After enjoying lunch, we kept moving up an old line of fence posts, once used to fence off a section of the island to eradicate sheep. We continued onto the tussock-clad tops where Southern Royal Albatross were nesting every 50 - 100 metre’s, their white feathers in stark contrast to the muted browns and yellows of the tussock. Many of the nests were still being built; essentially pedestals in the shape of upside-down dog bowls, made from a combination of grass, moss and peaty mud. In one of the previous year’s nests, we found a poignant reminder of the perils these birds face at sea; a long line trace, various bottle tops and other plastic items they had ingested but managed to regurgitate. We also saw about eight Snipe, their striped bodies invisible against the shrubbery unless they happened to move. We descended a long spur, stopping at a beautifully sheltered cave on an outcrop surrounded by windswept shrubs, before dropping down through Dracophyllum shrubland to Garden Cove. Robyn ferried some of us by Zodiac back to Heritage Adventurer, while we climbed the boardwalk to Col Lyall.

Those who had chosen to do the Mt Honey walk were led by Lindsay and dropped off at Garden Cove. After a morning greeting from the resident New Zealand Sea Lion, it was a gentle climb through Dracophyllum forest towards the southeast harbour. They saw orchids, sundews and other new plants. The 6-foot lake was visible, the lower slopes were dotted with Southern Royal Albatross nesting and the occasional swish of wings from low fliers was heard. The climb to the summit of Mt Honey was shrouded in mist, a Snipe was photographed as well as flowering megaherbs and a great variety of plant life for our botanists. Descending the summit, everyone headed for an exploration of Col Lyall.

Those enjoying the early morning Zodiac cruise loaded up and headed off for 1.5 hours of exploring. There were lots of New Zealand Sea Lions around alongside several interesting birds. We heard a lot about the history and geology of Campbell Island.

Around 1030, the group that had chosen to spend all day on the Col Lyall boardwalk headed away. Those on board had an early lunch before heading out again for the shorter time on the Col Lyall boardwalk. The cloud had lifted by the afternoon, revealing a stunning day. The presence of the Southern Royal Albatross flying and nesting close by was sensational. We were mesmerised by their size, beauty and grace in their flying abilities. At the landing the New Zealand Sea Lions were cooperative, even swimming around the Zodiacs along with the Campbell Island Flightless Teal. It proved to be a good day for Snipe observations, and the megaherb garden was full of all the varieties. The activities all wound up by 1700 and Heritage Adventurer set course out of Perseverance Harbour and started making her way to Bull Rock. Dan announced our arrival for a superb viewing of the Campbell, Grey Headed and Black Browed Albatross colonies on the cliffs – and in the air, the many thousands of albatrosses left us all agape, speechless in the enormity of the sight. It was a stunning end to an amazing day.

After biosecurity and a briefing, we enjoyed another lovely dinner and a sound sleep in quiet gentle, rocking seas.

Day 10

Friday 27 December 2024

Enderby Island, Auckland Islands

We could scarcely believe our eyes as we woke this morning, a glorious, blue-sky day with little to no wind greeted us as we made our way into the entrance of Port Ross and anchored near Enderby Island. The restaurant was full of excited chatter as we discussed our options and worked out who was doing what. By 0800, the first group, doing the all-day circuit walk headed away. We had a delayed start as we waited for several Yellow-eyed Penguin/Hoiho, it seemed to be peak hour traffic on the 'Penguin Highway'. We headed up the boardwalk to the Northern Cliffs and admired the beautiful megaherbs, passing several Albatross, New Zealand Dotterel, and Pipits. After a stop at the Northern Viewpoint, we left the board walk and headed into the tussock and megaherb fields where large patches of beautiful, coloured Gentians carpeted the ground. We spent some time at the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nesting site. Onwards past sheer cliffs, we saw several Yellow-eyed Penguin/Hoiho, Giant Petrel chicks along with some inquisitive New Zealand Sea Lions which made the journey interesting. At Derry Reef, we stopped for lunch and enjoyed the views of New Zealand Sea Lions, swirling seaweed and sea spray. Carrying on along the coast, we passed through thick vegetation and onto stoney beaches in places, spotting several Kākāriki. The Rātā forest was coming into spectacular bloom, we observed this twisted ‘goblin forest’ and admired the Tūī and Bellbirds feeding on the nectar. Around the coast we come across a Shag colony and almost turquoise clear water with beautiful swirls of seaweed. Our final stop was at Sandy Bay to the main New Zealand Sea Lion colony where we witnessed several births and enjoyed watching everything that went on.

At 0830, the all-day boardwalk and Northern Cliffs walking group departed and had a fabulous time exploring the boardwalk area and cliffs, where Light-Mantled Sooty Albatross were nesting and soaring in the wind. By 0900, the rest of us headed on the two hour Zodiac cruise to explore the bays, islands and wildlife of the area. It was a stunning day to be on the water and so much wildlife was seen! Yellow-eyed Penguins were plentiful, as were the flightless Auckland Island Teal, Pipit, Tomtit, Kākāriki, Tūī, Bellbird, Southern Rockhopper Penguin, Skua and even a Falcon were seen. The geology and landforms were spectacular, and we enjoyed great commentary from the Expedition Team.

We enjoyed lunch back on board Heritage Adventurer, then prepped to go ashore. The landing onto Sandy Bay was easy, and the Sea Lions were busy ‘doing their thing’ further along the beach. The males chased each other around exerting their dominance, and the females lay in groups with many births occurring during our visit. Once we’d negotiated our way over the soft, spongy seaweed on the beach, we headed off to cross Penguin Highway, giving way to several Yellow-eyed Penguin/Hoiho amking their way to and from the ocean. The sunny day persisted for the duration of our stay ashore. Once up on the top of Enderby Island, we saw several Southern Royal Albatross dotted across the tussock-covered landscape and flying in the blue sky with the greatest of ease. Some nests were close to the track, and they didn’t seem to notice us, so photo opportunities were eagerly taken. At one point, we looked down on a nesting Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. We spent a lot of time admiring the albatross soaring through the air on their mighty, outstretched wings; there were so many of them! Returning to the beach, we spent some time watching the action near the New Zealand Sea Lions. The Skuas were busy pecking at the afterbirth from the new Sea Lion pups being born. Just incredible to watch nature in action, a mind-blowing experience.

Back on the comforts of our trusty expedition vessel, we cleaned our gear, relaxed enjoyed a drink and caught up with our friends to share our stories of our wonderful day on Enderby Island. At the briefing, Dan told us that we had another chance to visit the Snares Islands tomorrow, we all cheered and clapped at that prospect.

Day 11

Saturday 28 December 2024

The Snares

It was a familiar view from our port holes and windows this morning. We enjoyed a relaxing morning, with breakfast starting at 0800, then a disembarkation briefing. Following that, Lindsay gave a presentation on the rat eradication of Campbell Island, highlighting his role in that successful campaign. During quiet times between presentations and eating, we spent time on the open decks admiring and photographing the sea birds that followed us and flew by us without, what seemed, like a care in the world. Or we relaxed in the lounge with a cuppa and chat about our adventures.

While enjoying lunch, we arrived at The Snares for our Zodiac cruise. Our last excursion in the Zodiacs was a splendid adventure, on a rolling sea with occasional showers, but very comfortable in this exciting Subantarctic environment. We enjoyed fantastic encounters with wildlife along the way, with lots of Snares Crested Penguins, New Zealand Fur Seals, Sooty Shearwaters, Cape Petrels, Tomtits, Fernbirds and Buller’s Albatross to keep us fully entertained. It was simply amazing to see so much birdlife living on such a small island in the Southern Ocean. Our two hours seemed to disappear so quickly, and we had so much fun we wanted to keep going! But in the end, we returned to Heritage Adventurer, cleaned our gear one last time and got ready for departure.

We departed to Bluff, and by 1800, we gathered in the lounge for the Captain's Farewell Cocktails and presentations from our Captain and Dan. Then Ewen presented his slide show of our Galapagos of the Southern Ocean voyage that he had put together, a great reminder of the adventures we’ve had. It was off to dinner for one last amazing feast that the Galley team put out for us. Many of us gathered in the lounge after dinner to chat and tell stories of this adventure and plans for future ones, and then slowly, we drifted off to bed for one last, restful sleep on Heritage Adventurer.

Day 12

Sunday 29 December 2024

Bluff

Our arrival at Bluff looked like another day in the Subantarctic islands. Once alongside we got ourselves ready to go, finished breakfast and were cleared by New Zealand Customs and Immigration.

As Heidi called us by groups onto the wharf, we identified our bags, boarded the bus and headed away to continue our adventures elsewhere. We waved farewell to our new friends with plans to return to Heritage Expeditions on another expedition in another destination.