HA241030: Discover the Secrets of Melanesia: Exploring Papua New Guinea, The Solomon Islands and Vanuatu
DISCOVER THE SECRETS OF MELANESIA
on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER
30 October - 15 November 2024
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 1
30 October 2024
Cairns/Australia
Arriving from various corners of the world we converged in Cairns, Australia at our hotel Rydges Esplanade, where we met our travel companions, some of the Expedition Team and our Expedition Leader Nathan Russ. As we enjoyed our dinner, Nathan prepped us for tomorrow’s journey to Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea and for our Discover the Secrets of Melanesia voyage to begin, before we enjoyed a variety of desserts, including local specialities such as Lamingtons.
Day 2
31 October 2024
Cairns – Port Moresby/Papua New Guinea
Some of us headed out early to explore Cairns, whilst others enjoyed a more relaxing morning at the hotel and surrounding areas as we prepared to head to Port Moresby later in the day. Those exploring Carins enjoyed a tour including the Cattana Wetlands, an area restored after sugar cane plantations and sand mining operations to an area of rainforest and wetland. We observed a plethora of bird, plant and insect species including Paperbark Trees, various varieties of palms, Green Pygmy Goose, Red-backed Fairywren, Comb-crested Jacana, Australasian Darter and encountered a few different types of spiders and stick insects.
On our drive from the wetland to the Botanical Garden, we stopped by a secret spot that our local guide had for the Metallic Starling, which had just completed a recent migration from Papua New Guinea. There were a multitude of nests set up in the trees where we could watch them coming and going feeding their young various berries and insects. We also saw Wagtails and Yellow Oriole before we left for the Cairns Botanical Gardens.
Arriving at the Cairns Botanical Gardens we explored and took in the carefully cultivated displays from orchids, pitcher plants, palms and hanging ferns from around the world, to spices and an area with local plants showing how the Indigenous people used them. There was also great wildlife to be found such as Australian Brush Turkeys, Megapodes, native bees and butterflies.
Afterwards, everyone converged at Cairns International Airport for our flight with Air Niugini. Taking off from Cairns we were treated to spectacular views of the Great Barrier and Osprey Reefs, before heading over the Gulf of Papua and into Port Moresby. Arriving at Port Moresby, we headed through immigration and onto buses bound for the port of Port Moresby, taking a route through the township and absorbing the local life as we drove through the city.
Those who stayed on from the Indonesia Explorer voyage enjoyed a day in Port Moresby and visited the Port Moresby Nature Park observing Birds-of-Paradise, butterflies, crocodiles, Tree-kangaroos, snakes as well as local flowers, trees and other plants. They then headed to Tutu Beach Retreat and enjoyed some local cuisine and a cultural performance. Afterwards, they visited Papua New Guinea Parliament which turned out to be a museum of sorts with beautiful specimens of some of the world’s largest moths and butterflies, beetles and other wildlife, as well as aspects of Papua New Guinea's history and Independence.
Finally, we reconvened at our new home for the adventure ahead, Heritage Adventurer. After the mandatory safety drills, we had a chance to settle into our cabins, chat with fellow guests and enjoy the first of many delicious dinners.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 3
1 November 2024
Doini Island
Our morning started with Suzanne introducing us to the Melanesia region, its culture and people, followed by Courtney sharing the relationships on the reef in preparation for our afternoon's snorkelling, and to the underwater world, bright corals and fishes that awaited us.
After lunch, we headed to Doini Island where some enjoyed a nature walk to the old WWII airstrip and the traditional burial area of the ‘Skull Cave’ – where prominent local skulls were kept. Others enjoyed exploring the local village with its large market, where some brought magnificent carvings and crafts. We then had our first experience snorkelling close by for those who wanted to immerse themselves in the warm, calm waters of Melanesia.
After this fantastic day exploring coral reefs and local landmarks, we returned to Heritage Adventurer and enjoyed another delicious dinner.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 4
2 November 2024
Tagula/Griffin Point Village
We started our day with a Zodiac cruise through the narrow mangroves, where locals could be found around each bend collecting sago, resting, and paddling up the river. Some local boys joined us and showed us a better channel for the mangroves. It was a great introduction to the ways of life in this area: resourceful and helpful.
We were the first tourists to ever visit Griffin Point, and a banner was raised to note this historic moment. Everyone was waiting on shore, welcoming us warmly. The school kids were dressed in grass skirts and traditional paint, with some holding fans made from turtle shells and spears with unique carvings. We climbed to the top of the hill and were met with stunning views of the ocean and surrounding islands. The school grounds held several modern and traditional buildings, with neat gardens and covered areas for communal cooking. The students performed dances about fishing, and another called a ‘love dance’ on how to woo a woman, which was met with laughter from both visitors and locals.
We donated school supplies in support of their mission, and in gratitude for their warm welcome. The students joined us for individual tours of the school buildings, and we learned how dedicated the students were to their education and how independent they were to live here for school, away from their families. Over 170 students are taught by just 7 teachers here, but there was a serenity throughout the place. We were reluctant to leave our new friends having formed special bonds with the students and teachers, but with a fond farewell, we returned to our trusty expedition vessel. Once aboard, we enjoyed lunch and could return to the village or explore a new snorkelling spot.
The snorkelling was an advanced option with a plunge in from the Zodiac. The warm, shallow waters allowed great encounters with reef fish and cleaner stations with cleaner wrasse ready for duty. A maze of coral bommies had us zigzagging through the shallow waters.
Those choosing to return to the village got a glimpse of their traditional way of life with trading, cooking and sports all happening. The women were playing netball, and the boys were playing a soccer game. Two guests, Peter and Navim, joined the rest of their team filled by local boys. It was a match for the history books, with the whole village watching and enjoying the great show.
Back on board Heritage Adventurer and sailing to our next destination, we had two presentations: the first from Betha on the politics of Papua New Guinea, a young country with great potential, and the second from Steve on tips for great photography and the philosophy for improving photographs no matter which camera you have.
Tonight was our first round of recaps, with a brief introduction from Suzanne. Jessa noted the unique animals we had seen, including the Common Spotted Cuscus and several unique insects. Phil gave a guide to key bird groups of Melanesia, while Andrew introduced the miracle food plant, Sago Palm, and how intricate its preparation can be. Glenda gave us a precap noting some of the unique geology that we would be seeing on tomorrow’s adventure on Fergusson Island and the Deidei geothermal areas.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 5
3 November 2024
Fergusson and Dobu Islands
After a delicious breakfast, we arrived at the geothermal area of Fergusson Island called Dei Dei Springs. Our local guides showed us around the many hot and mud pools and summoned some geysers for us too, or so we were told. They also showed us their local ways of cooking using the hot pools and the various areas where they would prepare Pandanus leaves for weaving to build house walls. Returning to the village, we visited the local market and met the locals who treated us with fresh pineapple and papaya, before we headed back to Heritage Adventurer.
During lunch, we sailed down to Dobu Island where a multitude of options awaited. Those who went ashore were treated to a local cultural performance with drumming and unique costumes, including headpieces worn in the mouth made from shells and pig tusks. After the cultural performance, we were shown local crafts including weaving (both for crafts and roofing materials), traditional clay pot cooking methods and items associated with Kula ring trading.
Those who headed into the water were treated to some of the clearest water snorkelling of the voyage on a local reef. The steep drop-off provided a vibrant selection of corals and a multitude of fish including tiny Clownfish nestled in the flowing corals.
Back on board we enjoyed a delicious dinner and prepared for tomorrow’s early start.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 6
4 November 2024
Trobriand Islands & Kaduwaga Village (Kaileuna Island)
It was another first on our Discover the Secrets of Melanesia voyage as we arrived early to a village that has never had visitors. We manoeuvred slowly in our Zodiacs over the shallow waters but quickly heard excited shouts from the shore of Kadugawa Village, on Kaileuna Island, where the locals welcomed us and laid woven Pandanus mats. We were met with an extraordinary welcome from the around 800 people who live in this village. They welcomed us further with a performance of several dances from women, paired with music played by men sitting on the ground. The first dances told a story about people canoeing in the ocean when their canoe broke and the people disappeared. Likely, a cautionary tale on how to safely canoe in the area, as canoeing is vital to their life. While the waters are shallow near the village, they quickly become too deep to anchor and even Heritage Adventurer had to drift while we went ashore. For the final dance, Suzanne and Chloe joined in and before long, several guests and staff joined too! The locals shared strips of Pandanus and flower crowns to help us get into costume!
After the welcome, we were guided by locals through the village with woven baskets, clay pots, and other items on offer. Several school kids came to see the arrival of tourists and the welcoming performance. Once the main event had concluded, they dashed back to their classrooms which was about a 15-minute walk away. Some of us joined them alongside a local guide, Mr. Susu, who was also a teacher at the Kaileuna School. He told us that students from all over the island came to their school, but they often didn’t have enough room for the students inside, so some would have to be taught outside. On our walk to the school, we also passed several local gardens filled with yams and pawpaw. Signs were up in some areas and would say “Tabu” for “don’t take, this belongs to …”. The walk to the school was serene, and we observed several butterflies, Blue-tailed Skinks, colourful crickets, and Golden Silk-orb Weaver Spiders.
We had another true expedition afternoon with the confirmation of a fabulous snorkelling spot on an uninhabited island adjacent to the village we visited in the morning. Snorkellers marvelled at the reef and saw a large stingray which was the talk of the night. Beachgoers enjoyed some cocktails or juice on the beach, with some swimming offshore and others exploring the unique vegetation of the area. Birders observed unique Kingfishers including the Beach Kingfisher. The main highlight was the sighting of a Curl-crested Manucode, a unique Bird-of-Paradise.
Once we were all back aboard Heritage Adventurer, Betha shared the geopolitics of Papua New Guinea and the challenge of supplying electricity to more of the population. Only 13% of its citizens have access to electricity!
After a fabulous expedition day into the unknown, we enjoyed dinner, eagerly discussing the day's events, before heading to bed to prepare for tomorrow’s adventure.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 7
5 November 2024
Woodlark Island
We were up and away with a visit to Woodlark Island to explore the local village, where we arrived at another stunning white coral sand beach where we were greeted by the local school and high school children dressed in traditional attire. They showcased their types of Kula rings and how they were traded amongst the various islands nearby, before being treated to local dances. We then joined in raising the national flag and singing their national anthem.
Once again, the children and villagers guided us around the village and to their crucial water source, founded during World War II. We explored the village at our own pace, meeting locals and checking out the market full of fresh papaya and mangoes alongside traditional weaving. Finally, we made our way along the beach to return to Heritage Adventurer.
Our afternoon at sea was filled with lectures and relaxation. This included Glenda discussing plate tectonics, Betha about Bougainville and its battle for independence and Jessa showing us the beautiful butterfly species that we have, and may encounter, on our voyage.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 8
6 November 2024
Bougainville
We had a well-deserved sleep-in after our big adventure through Melanesia so far. Steve shared more secrets about how to edit photos in a lecture entitled, What Photographers Do in the Dark. Chloe shared a lecture on Animism and Shamanism to give insights into the cultures we have encountered and what we will see continuing through the Solomon Islands and Vanuatu.
After lunch, it was time for us to become the first tourist ship to land at Kangu Beach and visit Buin, Bougainville. The news of our visit reached numerous ears, as there was a big entourage of people waiting near the pier for our arrival. Today we were the stars of the shows, as the locals photographed us in excitement of seeing tourists who looked so different.
The birders were first off, in search of the endemic birds of the island. They were thrilled to see a Variable Goshawk with a lizard in its talons, an Ultramarine Kingfisher, a Yellow-throated White Eye, a Long-tailed Myna, and many more unique birds found only in this part of the world.
We soon headed into the town of Buin with unique plants lining the road, including enormous fig trees, Rainbow Eucalyptus and a few large Ant Plants among the branches of the tall trees. We were welcomed by the local Laguai Elementary school kids who sang the National Anthem of Papua New Guinea and a new variant for their anticipated independence. They showed us around their school grounds and shared flags of Bougainville, set on a blue background with green triangles representing the trees, black representing the rich dark skin of its people, and a red and white headdress which is worn by significant members of its community.
Once back at the pier, we rode our Zodiacs to our next destination. Upon arrival, we were welcomed with an extraordinary cultural dance from three local villages. We walked along the beach surrounded by the music from bamboo and the sounds of flip-flops filled the air, with a unique rhythm only found around the Solomon Islands. Dancers showcased a series of traditional dresses from the three different villages. The first welcome dance featured a song about the dragonflies which fly up and down Bougainville’s special riverways. A large crowd of locals joined to watch the performances, with boys climbing trees to get better views.
The local police said it was the first time they had seen each group of people get along so well, and we all hoped this was a sign of what was to come for the future of this rarely visited part of Bougainville. Storm clouds began to appear as we loaded up in the Zodiacs, reluctant to leave our new friends, we returned to our trusty expedition vessel before the first rainfall appeared.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 9
7 November 2024
Kolombangara Island
After enjoying an early, but delicious, breakfast, we arrived on Kolombangara Island boarding local trucks, driving through local dirt roads and passing Kolombangara’s sustainable forestry blocks of Rainbow Eucalyptus, Acacia Tree and Mahogany. Weaving up the road we passed Solomon Sea Eagles, Roviana Rail and a multitude of orchids before reaching Imbu Rano Eco Lodge. On arrival at the lodge, we were greeted with spectacular views of Mount Veve before the mist arrived. A range of walks were offered, from a long walk up to a look out of Mount Veve to a walk down to the local river with a swim to cool off. A variety of flora and fauna were spotted on the walks, from spectacular Ant Plants and orchids to large Katydids and tiny shiny blue spiders, to the magnificent Blyth's Hornbill with its swooping wing beats.
Heading back down the hill on our unique transport, we were treated to some exquisite carvings at the local market and pipe drumming before returning to Heritage Adventurer for lunch.
After lunch some of us went for a Zodiac cruise of the lagoons around Leleana Resort Kolombangara, cruising through mangroves and observing various birds and orchids. Others went to Hunda Village where we met with the local people who showed us a slice of their daily life, inviting us to the local school and inside their homes. We all converged on Leleana Resort where a bar and a snorkelling area were set up. As we entered the resort, we were greeted by boundless butterflies and orchids and sat lagoon side enjoying the atmosphere and drinks. Others ventured out to the nearby reef for a snorkel where many interesting species were found including several corals, octopus and lionfish. A fabulous day in this slice of paradise!
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 10
8 November 2024
Tetepare Island
Our early morning arrival to Tetepare Island began with traditional water drumming by local women as we drifted in through the shallow waters. Once on shore, we headed up a path surrounded by rainforest to a small lodge with locals showcasing incredible artwork. Once we were seated near the lodge, warriors in traditional dress and weaponry slowly appeared from the bushes with shouts from the forest signalling there were more than we could see. We were soon surrounded by warriors who demonstrated intimidation methods used in the past. Once they had showcased their fighting skills, they shared a dance about birds hunting along the shore for crabs. This was then followed by a light-hearted dance by the warriors paired with singing by the local women.
Maria and the local rangers of the island then welcomed us, telling us the story of the previous inhabitants and the work to conserve this island, the largest uninhabited island in the Solomon Islands. Local Coconut Crabs, a conservation success story, appeared with one climbing a tree. The presentation concluded with food cooked in a traditional 'oven' with hot stones. We sampled local food including roasted and raw Nali nuts and a traditional cake made of baked banana and casava.
This island is a key breeding site for the critically endangered Leatherback Sea Turtle and the rangers shared stories about monitoring these special animals. They also caught a Green Turtle and demonstrated the tagging, measuring, and releasing methods used to monitor the turtle populations.
Plenty of souvenirs were purchased from the highly skilled carvers and we admired everyone’s craftsmanship with wood and shell inlays. Afterwards, most of the group set off for a walk in the rainforest. Walkers were led to an enormous Strangler Fig that could hardly fit inside any photos! The local guides shared some of the uses for these plants including for bush medicine, food and canoes. The light rain which had started earlier soon gave way to a proper downpour which many found refreshing and fitting given we were in the ‘rain forest’.
The Birders had set off earlier than the rest of the group and soon returned with bright eyes after seeing some of their target species including Song Parrots, White-winged fantail and a Dark-eyed White-eye.
After our adventure, it was back on board Heritage Adventurer to unwind and enjoy another delicious dinner.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 11
9 November 2024
Nggela Islands and Tulagi Island
This morning, we headed to the Nggela Islands while the birders were dropped off for a day of birding at Mount Austen. As we entered Roderick Bay, we saw the wreck of the MS World Discoverer which hit uncharted rocks nearby and managed to get everyone off the vessel successfully, whilst the Captain beached the vessel, in 2000. Some enjoyed snorkelling around the wreck and the reefs close by, whilst others enjoyed a dip and then explored the market and trails in search of wildlife or local wares. Those at the landing site watched as the local children jumped off trees and the wreck into the water and some even used the flying fox above our heads to dive into the water below. The wreck provided a sheltered yet tranquil location to enjoy our morning.
During lunch, we relocated to Tulagi Island where we enjoyed a traditional welcome from local warriors before heading on a driving and walking tour of the sites of Tulagi. This included the old British resident commissioner's house, the Blue Beach landing where the US Marines landed in 1942, and 'The Cut' made by prisoners to ease access from one side of the island to the other. We then walked through the village to the site of the Japanese U-caves, used as a defensive position by the Japanese in WWII. Returning to the beach we visited another market and enjoyed a traditional farewell by the local warriors before heading back to our trusty expedition vessel.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 12
10 November 2024
Santa Ana
In true expedition style, this morning found us at an unplanned landing site after our original destination was no longer suitable to visit. While we sent some officials ashore on the island of Santa Ana, we had permission to take everyone snorkelling in the vibrant blue waters. Despite the short notice, the locals put on a show with welcome dances by the women and school kids, then prepared guides for a long walk to the next-door village, or a short walk to their freshwater lake. We all found ourselves dancing to the fun local music and enjoying the welcome.
Our long walkers set off first, heading over to the next village. Once there, they were greeted by the local kids who were thrilled to see us. Some of the kids challenged us to races, and we felt like celebrities with all the attention. Back at the main village, others were invited to the local church which was in session. We had the chance to join in singing with all the locals, feeling both far and close to home. A few others headed off to see the freshwater lake with a path through a mature rainforest revealing unique plants, insects, and green-shelled snails along the way. At the lake, local boys were swimming, and a Frigatebird could be seen dipping into the surface of the water, perhaps to catch a fish.
Our kayakers had their own welcome and unique adventure further along the shore. Dancers performed exclusively for them and this intimate experience allowed them to get to know some of the locals better. Their explorations also revealed hot springs just off the coast of the island. As we all began to depart, we had the opportunity to pick up some unique shell necklaces or carvings for sale.
Back on board Heritage Adventurer, we enjoyed a later lunch. After a short break, cake and other treats were brought out for Nathan’s lecture on the Story So Far of Heritage Expeditions. He shared how he had been on board ships with his family from the age of 8 and developed key skills for expedition travelling and noted some of the unique capabilities of Heritage Adventurer.
Later, a presentation and panel discussion by Lou focused on current conservation projects and what we need to do for the future. This sparked some inspiring discussion amongst the audience and ended on notes of hope for the future. The panel included both staff and guests who have worked on various conservation projects.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 13
11 November 2024
Nendö Island and Noipe Village
Landing at the town of Lata, we hopped on our island-style transport of local trucks, for a ride up to the village of Noipe on Nendö Island, the largest of the Santa Cruz Islands. At Noipe we were surprised by warriors from the surrounding forest before we were welcomed with the Solomon Islands anthem and a traditional dance from the local women. After the welcome, there were more dances by the local ladies who drummed on a hollow log, along with demonstrations of making traditional feather money, known as Tevau, and feather money sticks.
Heading further into the village we immersed ourselves in more local dances. We then explored the village, visiting local stalls showing traditional ways of weaving, cooking spinach, taro and sweet potato and sampled some of these local delicacies. The market featured unique baskets, tapa cloths and carvings.
After exploring the village and receiving a fond farewell from the people of Nendö, we made our way back down to Lata passing pineapple, banana and papaya plantations, and friendly locals waving. Arriving at the landing site there was a makeshift market with betelnut, watermelon, tuna and a lychee-like fruit.
Back on board the comforts of Heritage Adventurer, we enjoyed a late lunch before a lecture from Suzanne on cargo cults, followed by Chloe discussing Solomon Islands culture and art.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 14
12 November 2024
Loh Island
The early morning found us in Vanuatu preparing to begin our adventures in this new country, on Loh Island. The stunningly clear and vibrantly blue waters dazzled us. Once we reached the shore, shouts were heard and warriors appeared, some jumping in our Zodiacs to welcome us. A calmer welcome by the Chief of the village was translated by Chloe and each guest received a flower necklace. Many parts of the island were decorated for our welcome, with woven palm leaves made into vases holding a variety of flowers. A local band with unique guitars and a box with a string for bass also put on a fantastic performance.
A gentle walk across the island let us enjoy the unique plants and chat with our local guides, wearing vibrant local dresses. Some guides were teachers, while the kids soon joined in to become guides themselves. Unique butterflies, skinks, and caterpillars were spotted along the track and the band soon joined us, periodically serenading our walk.
Once we reached the other village, the turquoise waters and pristine beaches made for a perfect photo opportunity. Our local band resumed their songs at the dance site, while everyone met at the area. Soon enough, we had a formal welcome and explanation of the significance of the dance we were about to see. The local band changed instruments, trading guitars for bamboo poles to strike against a hollow log. With the music rolling, the dancers shuffled into the area, first hidden behind fan palm leaves, which were slowly lowered to reveal vibrant hats on the men and coloured hair on the women. After a few rounds, guests were invited to participate in the dance which made for a spectacular experience.
Afterwards, we enjoyed local food including papaya, bananas, mangoes, a spongy coconut and fresh coconuts to drink. There was the chance to take a dip in the water, which was perfectly warm with gentle waves. On our walk back, we stopped by the local cave, which is used as a shelter during cyclones. The large cave was home to several bats which could be spotted flying around, but the light was too poor to identify them.
Returning to our trusty expedition vessel, we enjoyed a quick lunch and prepared for our snorkelling afternoon. We were met with more incredibly clear water and vibrant fish. Everyone marvelled at the high visibility in the water and shared which unique fish and corals they had seen. Back on board Heritage Adventurer, there was a conversation about the incredible insects seen on our journey so far from Jessa.
Tonight’s recaps featured a unique prize where guests had to guess which marine animals made the sounds played, and if they guessed correctly, they won a staff member to have dinner with.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 15
13 November 2024
Espiritu Santo
Our morning started with champagne on Champagne Beach with some of us choosing to relax in the sun, explore the local market or head out for a snorkel at the nearby reef. We were soon joined by local ladies who performed their traditional and renowned water music, using the surrounding water as their instrument, then letting us learn and practice their ways. After a relaxing morning, we went back aboard for lunch, before returning to start a tour of Luganville and the Blue Hole.
Weaving through the villages and the towns, we arrived at Luganville and explored its WWII museum and Million Dollar Point – where surplus army vehicles were dumped after WWII. We then headed down to the Blue Hole where a spectacular freshwater swimming hole awaited us. Some chose to relax by the water whilst others enjoyed a swim, or the more adventurous went down the waterslide or tried the rope swing. The Zodiac cruised down the river, weaved through forest and mangroves and even under a bridge before returning through the coral and back to Heritage Adventurer.
This evening, we enjoyed a conversation with Chloe before a BBQ dinner on the outer deck.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 16
14 November 2024
Ambrym and Sandwich Island
This morning, we arrived on a shore of broken corals and dark sand near the village of Nebul on Ambrym Island. We set out walking, or getting rides from the best available local transport, to reach the Nasara area. We heard the story behind the ancient Rom dance and soon the mysterious masked dancers appeared. The vibrations of their stomping and singing through the ground, black from the volcanic soil, was breathtaking. The rain gave the dance a spooky feeling as the dark spirits overtook the Rom dance.
We journeyed back down to Nebul, meeting villagers along the way and enjoying their spectacular gardens, which were a mix of flowers and edible plants. Near our landing site, there were unique carvings of masks and animals, and many people got a unique souvenir from this island of black magic.
We arrived back on board in time for another great lunch and heard the announcement for our ‘expedition afternoon'. The conditions were right for a Zodiac cruise along a river on Sandwich Island. As our Captain relocated Heritage Adventurer, we took the opportunity to put away gear and pack our belongings for our departure tomorrow. Soon enough, it was time to jump back into the Zodiacs and explore the flooded forest with the high tide. We observed extraordinary orchids blooming, an Imperial Pigeon posing nicely for us in a coconut tree, and other brilliantly coloured birds flying overhead. Along the river, we saw a few dwellings with canoes, and huts on the steep slopes. Near the entrance to the river, kids jumped in the trees and splashed in the water to say 'hello'.
Rain gave us a final ‘cool off’ and we rejoined our trusty expedition vessel to prepare for the Captain’s farewell dinner and the extraordinary slideshow of all our adventures from Steve Bradley. After one last fabulous farewell feast and conversation with our fellow travellers, we headed to bed with dreams full of our Melanesian adventure.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
Day 17
15 November 2024
Port Vila
An early arrival saw us enjoying a final breakfast together before we bid the crew, expedition team, Heritage Adventurer and our newfound friends farewell as we departed. Our Discover the Secrets of Melanesia adventure had ended, but the memories we made will last a lifetime.
© S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions
