1370: Ross Sea - In the Wake of Scott and Shackleton 08 Jan 2013

8 January – 6 February (Waitangi Day NZ) 2013

Voyage 1370 on MV Spirit of Enderby/Professor Khromov

Click here for Species List

Day 1. Wednesday 9 January 2013 – At sea southward

 

Noon position: Latitude 45^o 47.21’ Longitude 170^o 47.26’

Positions are taken from the Deck Log Book 

Air temperature 18^oC 

Concerning readings for air temperature, the thermometers outside a Bridge Port chart room window, are alcohol and mercury filled. For all readings, these are only an approximation. When the sun is out the thermometers receive direct sunlight. Unless mentioned readings need to be reduced by about 2^oC and in some instances probably more. A reasonable approximation can be gained from surface water temperature.

On our way at last, with 50 of us about to experience magnificent Subantarctic Islands followed by the wonders of Antarctica, in the Ross Sea region south of New Zealand. We arrived yesterday in the Scottish city of Dunedin and stayed overnight in the Southern Cross Scenic Hotel, meeting up for the first time over dinner.

 

It rained in the night and the morning was cloudy and calm. Expedition staff members Katya and David assisted with luggage and we soon boarded our ship the Spirit of Enderby, which had arrived in port yesterday following the completion of an expedition to sub-Antarctic Islands. At 10am as we were fare welled by the somewhat reduced Taieri Pipe Band, which today consisted of three drummers, a guitarist, accordion player and a piper (many members were on holiday). The ship departed on schedule and with the pilot on board, proceeded up the channel towards Port Chalmers and the open sea. On the way out of the port we passed the large passenger liner Celebrity Solstice; which was visiting Dunedin for the day. The pilot left us at 11.35am as we passed Taiaroa Head with its Royal Albatross colony, and headed south past a largely treeless landscape.

 

Rodney, who founded Heritage Expeditions over 25 years ago, assembled everyone in the lecture room where we were introduced to the expedition staff and received the all-important safety briefing. After lunch the abandon ship alarm (seven short, one long) was sounded three times and a compulsory lifeboat drill was held. We then spent a few minutes in our allotted lifeboats while the engines were briefly started.

 

At 4pm we again assembled in the lecture room for a final briefing of the day. This covered Zodiac inflatable boat travel, followed by an introduction to New Zealand’s Snares Islands, which lie south of Stewart Island. The lounge area with the Globe Bar seems to be a convivial place to get to know our shipmates. In the evening, chefs Bobby and Lindsay provided an excellent meal in the Ice Culture Restaurant, with venison or Thai curried fish offered for the main course.

Day 2. Thursday 10 January – Snares Islands 48^o02’S 179^o55’W

Noon position: Latitude 48^o 24.33’S Longitude 166^o 36.44’E 

Air temperature 19^oC

 

During the night the sea became moderately rough and although we woke to a fine day, conditions were not suitable to do the planned Zodiac cruise. We did however have excellent viewing of the Snares Islands situated about 209km south-west of New Zealand. 

 

The island group was discovered by Captain George Vancouver from the vessel HMS Discovery in 1791. The main island is named North East Island and the second largest is Broughton Island, which was named after Lieutenant William Broughton, commander of HMS Chatham. To the south-west is a group of five small islands known as the Western Chain; each with a Maori numeral name. Until 1830 the islands were visited by numerous sealing parties from Australia, which almost wiped out the New Zealand Fur seal (Arctocephalus forsteri) colonies. Despite their rugged rocky coastlines, no ship wrecks have been recorded.

 

This morning we had excellent viewing of white lichen encrusted sea cliffs of mica-rich granite, topped by stunted vegetation with two ‘tree daisies’ - the pale green Olearia lyalli and the darker green Brachyglottis stewartiae. Numerous seabirds sighted included Snares Crested Penguin, Sooty Shearwaters, Buller’s and Salvin’s Albatross. A south to south-west swell came up and when lunch was held at 1pm a course change was made to help both chefs and diners. As the sea was becoming rough, lectures were cancelled and most preferred to remain in their cabins. A course change was again taken to enable enjoyment of the evening meal and most retired in the early evening.

 

Day 3. Friday 11 January - Enderby Island; Port Ross

Noon position: Latitude 50^o 30.46’S Longitude 166^o 16.75E 

Air temperature 17^oC

 

 

When struck by large swells during the night, the Spirit of Enderby bucked and shook occasionally requiring a further change in direction. This took us 33 nautical miles west. Rodney said that in over 100 visits to the Auckland Islands he had never had to make so many course changes here. At 7am we anchored off Port Ross, opposite Sandy Bay on Enderby Island, the most northern of the volcanic Auckland Island group, formed 16-24 million years ago. The sea was now considerably calmer, despite a persistent 25 knot westerly.

 

We had an excellent view of the island with its stunted vegetation and to left and right of Sandy Bay, cliffs comprising volcanic columnar basalt encrusted with white and yellow lichen. These cliffs rose above an intertidal platform. After breakfast we assembled in the Lecture Room where Rodney gave an excellent introduction to the natural and human history associated with the Auckland Islands and suggested we should read some of the books available. We then made our lunch and prepared for the first landing on the expedition.

 

Before departing we were required to vacuum our clothing to prevent unwanted seeds being distributed on the island and to disinfect our footwear with ‘Virkon’. The Zodiac operation began at 9.15am and we landed on the rocky, kelp-covered shore platform, above which was a small collection of huts owned by New Zealand’s Department of Conservation.

Rodney pointed out a castaway ‘finger post’ which provided directions to an early supply depot. He then gave an interesting commentary on the large colony of New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lions on the beach. Large bulls guarded their harems and a large number of pups were congregated in creches. Apart from one early squall of hail and rain, it was a nice sunny morning. This added to the pleasure of taking the 45 minute walk across the west side of the island by way of an excellent walkway.

 

The windswept vegetation had a variety of plants in flower including young Southern Rata with red flowers, Casinia vauvilliersii with white flowers and the small endemic mauve and white Gentiana cerina. Unfortunately the large yellow-flowered megaherb Bulbinella rossii had finished flowering by this time. Beside the walkway we were privileged to have an excellent view of a nesting Southern Royal Albatross with other magnificent birds scattered over the landscape and either resting or in flight. On the west side of the island, Katya led many of us to see a Wandering Albatross chick and Rodney took others to search for an endemic Auckland Island Snipe (Coenocorypa aucklandica) with some of us fortunate to see one. Rodney then led 33 of the party on a five hour trek around the island. The party was rewarded with observing Snipe, a few Auckland Island Teal (Anas aucklandica), Red-crowned parakeet (Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae), and fortunately no domestic animals. The removal of rabbits and other introduced animals has led to a dramatic recovery of flora and fauna in this beautiful place.

 

Back at Sandy Bay a few enjoyed lunch in the Rata forest, where in the peaceful shaded environment they observed Bellbirds, Tui and the endemic Auckland Islands Tomtit. All had the pleasure of viewing at close quarters the sea lions and Yellow-eyed Penguin (Eudyptes chrysocome). 

 

By 5pm we were back on board after a superb day of natural history and dramatic scenery. In the evening Katya discussed bird sightings, this enabling an update to our Southern Ocean Species List. Many continued relaxation in the lounge where the library provides a good selection of titles.

 

Day 4. Saturday 12 January – Auckland Island; North Arm of Carnley Harbour

Noon position: Latitude 50^o51.30’S Longitude 166^o02.88’E 

Air temperature 9.5^oC

During the night while at Enderby Island, several Giant Petrels apparently visited the ship. By 6.45am we were anchored in Carnley Harbour with Adams Island visible to port. It was a rather bleak morning with low cloud, a light nor-west and light rain; not unusual for the region. After breakfast we anchored inside the entrance to the North Arm of Carnley Harbour. About 20 of us headed ashore in Zodiacs to the inspect remains of the Grafton wrecked in 1864 and also remnants of a rock hut named Epigwaitt, an Indian word meaning ‘house by the sea’. Here survivors from the Grafton eked out a miserable existence for 18 months and even constructed a boat to facilitate rescue. Apart for four ‘ribs’ from the hull, little remains of the ship and only the rear wall remains of Epigwaitt. After constructing a boat with improvised tools Captain Musgrave along with two others reached New Zealand then returned to collect the other two men.

 

As we stood in dripping, open Rata forest with a ground cover of nettles, ferns and other plants, Rodney narrated events concerning the wreck of Captain Musgrave’s ship and the later rescue. This was in many ways comparable to other great open ocean voyages such as Captain Bligh’s voyage in the Pacific and Sir Ernest Shackleton’s voyage in the James Caird to South Georgia in 1916. The Grafton rescue was in stark contrast to the wreck of the Invercauld on the other side of Auckland Island and we left with perhaps a better appreciation for the conditions the Grafton crew experienced. Also of interest on this adventure were female sea lions, two Auckland Island Shags, a Tui and various marine shells including blue mussels, limpets and pipis.

 

Before lunch David gave his first lecture entitled ‘Bleak Outposts in Stormy Seas’. This general lecture followed Rodney’s introductory lectures and focused on the exploitation of seals and penguins, shipwrecks and castaways, attempts at farming and scientific expeditions. There are several good books describing the privations of the castaways in particular. At 1pm we departed for Macquarie Island. As we left Carnley Harbour, we were treated to the impressive sight of a ‘raft’ of hundreds of Sooty Shearwaters. Cloud was now lifting and rounding the mouth of the harbour we viewed waterfalls and streams cascading over grassy slopes and cliffs formed by volcanic eruptions.

 

Course was set at 230^o with 341 nautical miles to go before we reached Macquarie Island about midnight (ship time) Sunday evening. For those on the Bridge many seabirds including Wandering, Gibson’s, Salvin’s, Shy and Light-Mantled Sooty Albatross were seen. One of the greatest and most beautiful pleasures when at sea in these regions is seeing a large albatross gliding on air currents and sweeping low over the waves with a wing tip almost brushing the surface. We can all now appreciate Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s ‘The Rime of the Ancient Mariner’ along with the comment by ornithologist Robert Cushman Murphy who stated ‘I have seen the Albatross’.

 

Other species seen today included Yellow-eyed Penguins, Northern Giant, White-headed, White Chinned, Storm, Diving and Cape Petrels, Red-billed Gulls, Auckland Island Shags, Brown Skua and one South Polar Skua which was seen in Carnley Harbour. Mammal sightings included a Sei Whale and a small pod of Hour Glass Dolphins. Also seen today and identified by two fins, was possibly a sleeping Basking Shark, measuring about three metres long. New Zealand Blue Cod or Moroccan Lamb (on plates) helped round off an excellent day. Chefs Bobby and Lindsay with help from Natalia, Albina and the ship staff have done an excellent job looking after our daily needs.

 

Day 5. Sunday 13 January – en route to Macquarie Island

Noon position: Latitude 53^o18.6’S Longitude 161^o26.28’E       

Air Temperature 12^oC

We enjoyed a blissfully calm sea last night and at 9am today were over the Emerald Basin and about 4300m of water. We have now completed about half our sea miles to Macquarie Island. Many enjoyed a restful morning in the library/lounge including at 10.30am an excellent brunch with fruit, bagels, smoked salmon, bacon and all the trimmings. With the calm sea some of us enjoyed time at the bow enjoying good viewings of albatross gliding above the waves with an occasional wing beat to maintain speed. Although there was some high cloud, the sun shone determinedly and it was a very pleasant change to being inside. On the Bridge the Officer on Watch is always very helpful with any questions concerning our progress. One bird which made an early appearance this morning was the beautiful Southern Fulmar.

 

At 12.30pm Steve presented his lecture ‘Ocean Wanderers: Southern Seabirds’. The information given will be very useful in the days ahead and make more meaningful the sightings and records of new species seen and recorded in our logs. Steve’s lecture was followed by Rodney’s introduction to Macquarie Island and Australia’s Station, with reference also made to his beautiful book, ‘Galapagos of the Antarctic: Wild islands south of New Zealand’ compiled with biologist Aleks Terauds. Two further books worth reading on this subject are ‘Castaway on the Auckland Islands’ by Thomas Musgrove and ‘Wrecked on a Reef or Twenty Months in the Auckland Islands’ by Francois E. Raynal. The lectures were followed by scones and other delectables along with tea or coffee in the restaurant. 

 

By 4pm the sea was rising a little and low cloud had appeared. This did not prevent an interesting debate over an albatross sighting however. Katya using binoculars noticed the yellow eyes and a debate on the Bridge was duly settled with identification of a Campbell Island Albatross. After dinner the bird observation discussion included five albatross species and numerous petrels including the Wilson’s Storm-Petrel. One cetacean seen may have been a Beaked Whale and Katya identified a Royal Penguin. By 9pm Macquarie was visible on the horizon below a band of apricot sky interspersed with streaks of pale grey cloud. Rodney contacted Macquarie which is now about 34 miles away and it was interesting to hear field parties checking in, their plans for tomorrow and to receive the weather report. The rest of us prepared for an interesting day tomorrow and wrote diaries.

 

Day 6. Monday 14 January – Macquarie Island - Sandy Bay; Buckle’s Bay; Macquarie Island ANARE Station

 

Noon position: Latitude 54^o 34.16’S Longitude 158^o 55.96’E

Air temperature: 12^oC

 

 

About midnight (ship time; Australia two hours behind) we dropped anchor at Buckle’s Bay and today were blessed with superb weather. To greet us were King Penguins swimming and calling beside the Spirit of Enderby. At 8.15am it was a warm 7.5^oC outside with the promise of a fine day. At 9am Rodney collected six personnel from Australia’s ANARE (Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions) Station. Activities began with a briefing by Rodney at 9.30am. Before he could begin however, he was advised he was late. Unbeknownst to him, the minute hand on the lecture room clock had been advanced to catch him out, which caused much amusement amongst the group. Rodney enjoyed the joke and we settled down to the business of the day.

 

We were introduced to staff from the Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service – Richard the last winter-over Officer in Charge; Cameron a rabbit hunter; Maria the station chef; Andrew of the Meteorological Bureau who advised, we may possibly have no rain, possibly sunshine and possibly wind; Paul a summer Ranger and Simon a summer scientist.

 

We began the landing at Sandy Bay at 10.30am. From the swell there was reasonable surf on the beach and at times Rodney and Dan were in water up to their chests steadying the Zodiacs. Once ashore Richard outlined further instructions and we were then left to enjoy ourselves. Many were soon taking photos of grunting, moulting Southern Elephant Seals, which lay like large brown logs of wood, occasionally grunting like pigs or hippos, along with younger animals, which resembled large grey slugs. An excellent board walk took us to the large Royal Penguin colony. This was a hive of activity with commuting, sleeping, fighting and the preening of chicks, some of which were clustered in crèches. The noise from the birds was extraordinary and the odour left a lot to be desired. A juvenile Brown Skua, perhaps three weeks old, was also seen along with scattered penguin eggs taken by adult birds to feed Skua chicks. Also of interest was the extent of flora rejuvenation since rabbit eradication.

 

Taking care not to slip on kelp and maintain a five metre distance from wildlife, a short walk enabled us to view other elephant seals and the King Penguin colony a little further on. Here many birds were moulting and some chicks were like large rugby balls covered with brown down. These penguins although emitting a different call, were noticeably quieter. We passed an old hut linked to the early days of ANARE, but links to the sealing era have now been swallowed by sand. All too soon it was 2.30pm and time to return to the ship and Lindsay’s superb fish chowder, breads and salad for lunch. In conversation with Richard, some of us learned that last year on 333 days, rain exceeded 2mm a day and that 50,000km has been covered by hunters in two years of rabbit eradication with many covering 20-30km by foot per day.

 

The ship now relocated to Buckle’s Bay and in preparation for landing a short briefing was held at 3.45pm. After surfing in a Zodiac through a channel devoid of kelp and alighting on a boulder beach, we were split into groups, each being accompanied by an ANARE Station staff member. From here we saw a Gentoo Penguin with a pair of chicks, then took a track past elephant seals sprawled among clumps of course Poa anua grass. There we joined the excellent board walk with viewing platforms, leading to the top of a rocky ridge known as the Razorback. The ridge provided an excellent view north towards the Station and across the isthmus to the west side and east from which we had come. We were fortunate to view Light- mantled Sooty Albatross, Giant Petrels and a few Redpolls, which arrived independently many years ago.

 

The walk along the coarse grey sand beach on the west side of the isthmus was interesting. Here we saw a number of Gentoo Penguins and at least 50 Giant Petrels, including a White Morph. Rocks were covered with bright yellow crustose, a salt-tolerant lichen. The tour then continued to the Station where very hospitable staff provided scones, tea and coffee. The Postmaster was kept busy selling stamps and postcards, proceeds from the latter making a contribution to those affected by the Tasmanian bushfires. Some of us enjoyed meeting the Station Leader Narelle Campbell and the Station Doctor John Cadden. After ‘smoko’ (afternoon tea) we were shown around some of the buildings including one of the oldest, a ‘donga’ (sleeping quarters). Iron ‘try pots’ used to render blubber from elephant seals and steam digesters used for rendering penguin oil showed links to the island’s sealing days.

 

By 8pm it was time to say goodbye to our hospitable hosts. After a brief detour to view Rockhopper Penguins, we were soon back aboard the ship. After a quick shower and a drink in the Globe Bar it was time for a sumptuous dinner at 9pm. All agreed that we had been very fortunate to have such a beautiful, albeit long day, with something of interest for everyone.

 

Day 7. Tuesday 15 January – Lusitania Bay to the Ross Sea

Noon position: Latitude 55^o28.35’S Longitude 160.0584^oE

Air temperature: 13^oC. Water temperature (until stated otherwise, refers to surface): +7^oC 

 

Today well rested, we had quite a different start compared to yesterday. Heavy fog had descended when Rodney made his 6am announcement. This meant we were unable to take the planned Zodiac cruise further south at Lusitania Bay to view the extensive King Penguin colony with rusting steam digesters in the centre of it. Course was then set for Antarctica and by 8.15am we were doing 10.9 knots and heading south-east to Longitude 180^o66’ near Scott Island in the outer Ross Sea. A recap meeting held in the lounge gave an opportunity to recall our wonderful day yesterday. Everyone, including those who had visited the island before, had thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Many spoke about how much they appreciated being able to get so close to the wildlife and amazement at the recovery of vegetation. Others paid tribute to the expedition staff with special recognition given to Rodney, Dan, Katya and Steve, along with the dedication and hospitality shown by the ANARE Macquarie Island Station personnel.

 

There were light-hearted moments, particularly with remarks about elephant seals; the largest seal in the World:

 

“I did not expect to find a clone of my boss, and such a big mouth! I took a photo.”

 

“Makes you want to go on a diet.”

 

“Their personality defined three words for me – Fart, Belch and Snort.”

 

“I now know what an Elephant seal’s breath is like.”

 

“Elephant seals have come to bed eyes.”

 

Other comments of note included:

 

“My highlight was seeing Rodney ‘arse up’ in the surf!”

 

“The Royal Penguin colony reminds me of Beijing.”

 

Expedition staff briefly outlined aspects of interest with David speaking on Macquarie Island history, Steve on penguins, Katya on seals (fur and elephant) along with Rodney on Conservation issues. The fog gradually cleared by mid-afternoon and was gone by 4pm, yet only one seabird was reported. We will soon pass over the Antarctic Convergence (a temperature and salinity boundary of the Southern Ocean) about 90 nautical miles south of Macquarie. The sea temperature will then fall and we should observe more oceanic birds owing to the upwelling of nutrients, plus new species as we move further south.

 

At 3.30pm Rodney outlined plans for the second stage of our expedition. This was very informative and great interest was shown in three satellite photographs showing ice conditions, particularly one received from his office this morning. Several key events will be marked over the coming days, including the Convergence; first iceberg, Antarctic Circle crossing (Latitude 66^o34’S) along with the pack ice, before we enter the Ross Sea proper. Later in the day discussions continued in the bar and lounge, an excellent facility for using a laptop, reading an e-book, browsing the on board library books (carefully reorganised by David and Bernd), or to discuss the expedition. The evening meal was up to the usual high standard with chicken and pasta or lamb shank with kumera (New Zealand Maori sweet potato) mash. 

 

At the regular bird identification meeting, yesterday’s sightings included four species of penguins. Rodney thinks Heard Island is the only other locality where these are all found together. Sightings also included Wandering (Exulans) and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and six species of petrels plus an unidentified whale seen during ‘bar time’.

 

Day 8. Wednesday 16 January – En route to the Ross Sea

Noon position: Latitude 59^o06.2’S Longitude 166^o12.3’E

Air temperature: +9^oC [Light rain-drizzle] Water temperature: 6^oC

 

After a very calm night and complete darkness between 2 and 3am, we rose to a fine day with scattered cloud and an outside temperature of 7^oC. At 7.25am a Right Whale was sighted near the bow by Maxim the Second Mate. During the night our run was 52.8 miles with an average speed of 13 knots. About 10am three Minke whales were sighted. These were named after a scientist named Meincke and the name means ‘winged whale with sharp snout’. Steve, wearing a special penguin hat, gave another of his interesting and informative presentations. This was entitled ‘Penguins: feathered fish or flippered fliers?’ He mentioned the last camera he owned was a Kodak Box Brownie received when aged about 10 with no film in it and paid a tribute to many who lent excellent photos for his lectures. We received numerous facts including the origin of the name penguin; perhaps from the Welsh ‘Pen-Gwyn’, given to the Great Auk extinct since 1844 and that 30-40% of penguins change their partners in the first year; this no doubt contributing to a divorce rate of 90%.

 

After ‘retail therapy’ (shopping) was concluded, many made their way to the Bridge to participate in bird and whale-watching. Small flocks of 5-10 Antarctic Prions darted erratically above the gentle swell around the ship, followed by a much larger flock of about 50 seen later in the day. Following lunch there were still a few birds about in the intermittent light rain. David and Vicki reported the unlikely sight of a truck tyre floating past. In the afternoon David discussed exploration of the Ross Sea region from Ross in 1841 to Borchgrevink in 1899 as a lead in to the start of the ‘heroic-era’. This lecture was followed by Katya who talked about the various families and species of cetaceans. Statistics quoted for whales taken in the 20th century were 725,000 Finn, 360,000 Blue and 200,000 Humpback whales.

 

At 6.10pm we crossed Latitude 60^oSouth and entered waters governed by the Antarctic Treaty (1959). Rodney told us that last September the sea ice extended to this point. The bird and whale sightings were recorded and more of each category may be repeated in the next few days. During the evening we pushed through a north to north-west swell which rocked us to sleep.

 

Day 9. Thursday 17 January – First iceberg; whales; Antarctic Convergence

 

Noon position: Latitude 62^o 34.35’S Longitude: 172^o41.2’E

Air temperature: 7^o Water temperature: +5^o

 

After another comfortable night, we continued in an easterly direction and at 8am were doing 12.3 knots and over 4600m of water. Overnight Rodney had received an updated satellite map which he said showed dramatic changes in the Ross Sea ice conditions which will happily be to our advantage. During the morning the first part of ‘The Last Place on Earth’, a film based on Roland Huntford’s controversial, well-researched and well-written book on Scott and Amundsen was screened. David then gave a lecture entitled ‘Antarctica Unveiled’ in which he discussed Robert Falcon Scott’s National Antarctic (Discovery) Expedition 1901-1904 with the emphasis on scientific and geographic achievements.

 

We are still waiting for the sight of our first iceberg, although Toni and others claimed to have seen one at 10.30am which turned out to be a hoax. At 3pm Katya talked to us about the three families of Pinnepeds (Seals) – True Seals or Phocids; Eared Seals or Otariids and the walruses. In Antarctic waters we expect to see the Crabeater (most numerous), Weddell, Leopard and perhaps the Ross Seal. At 4pm there was great excitement when the ghostly shape of the first (albeit weathered) iceberg appeared on the horizon. Alec was closest to the time in the competition predicting this momentous event. Soon afterwards the blows of two Fin Whales were seen as they passed us at a good pace. Katya suggested they were perhaps feeding near the surface.

 

When we crossed the Convergence there was a dramatic drop in the noon surface water temperature of 5^oC to 3.5^oC. Rodney gave an excellent presentation on the Antarctic Treaty and the usual convivial hour was spent in the lounge and bar. For dinner Lindsay’s samosa starter was followed by a tasty Indian dish of lamb or chicken curry accompanied by fresh vegetables. By 8pm fog over the sea indicated we were still crossing the Convergence and by 9pm the water temperature had dropped to 3^oC.

 

Day 10. Friday 18 January – Antarctic Circle (Latitude: 66^o33.4’S); Entered the ice; celebrated the birthday of our Chief Stewardess, Natalia Bogdanova.

Noon position: Latitude: 66^o12.42’S Longitude: 179^o43.62’E

Air temperature: 3^oC Water temperature: 2^oC (Antarctic water is generally accepted as -1.86^oC although depending on the region there are variations)

 

Our ship rocked occasionally in the night and the cabins were noticeably cooler, but we woke to find that the fog had left us and at 8am the air temperature was 2^oC. This afternoon we expect to cross the Antarctic Circle at 66^o33’S and ice is not far away. In the morning Katya gave a very useful presentation on photography, outlining important aspects relating to the camera itself and also for the photographer. She covered points such as composition with the two thirds rule, along with perspective, motion direction, to watch the horizon and to think before you shoot.

 

Light snow was falling by 11am when we were each issued with a handsome blue insulated jacket for the colder conditions we would soon experience. By 1pm we were almost due east of the Balleny Islands, just north-north-west of Cape Adare. At 2.15pm and rugged up in our newly issued jackets, we assembled on the bow. With light snow falling, Rodney dispensed a mug of mulled wine to each of us and we prepared for the signal from the Bridge that we had indeed crossed the Antarctic Circle. On hearing the ship’s horn, Kayta awarded each of us the ‘Mark of the Penguin’ this being a rubber stamp applied to the forehead. Rodney then read the following:

 

“By anyone’s standards this event is an auspicious occasion, as very few people have crossed the Antarctic Circle by ship. So on this occasion we want to both celebrate the occasion and acknowledge its importance. Today each one of us joins a unique group of explorers that have gone before us, not only showing us the way, but giving us the courage to follow and to make our own destiny. We follow explorers such as James Clark Ross, Robert Falcon Scott, Sir Ernest Shackleton, Roald Amundsen, Sir Douglas Mawson, Richard Byrd, Sir Edmund Hillary and others who pioneered new routes south of the Circle. Today we acknowledge them and their efforts.

 

Crossing the Circle also carries with it responsibility. A responsibility that those explorers who went before us took seriously which is part of the reason that we are here today. They advocated for the protection of these lands and wildlife that inhabited them, ensuring that future generations would have them to enjoy. So today as we cross the Circle, I would like each of you to take this vow and receive the ‘Mark of the Penguin’ as evidence that you have crossed the Antarctic Circle and have taken the pledge which I am going to ask you to say after me.

 

Having endured the privations of the Roaring Forties, the rigours of the Furious Fifties and the ice-strewn waters of the Screaming Sixties to cross the Antarctic Circle, pay homage to those early explorers who have not only shown the way, but have demonstrated what it means to advocate for the continued protection of Antarctica and its wildlife and history. I [put own name] hereby pledge that in accepting the ‘Mark of the Penguin’ will, until I take my last expedition, advocate to everybody, even those who will not listen, the importance of the Antarctic and its wildlife and history.

Would you please step forward and receive the ‘Mark of the Penguin.”

 

The ceremony now over, some of us lingered on deck to enjoy the freshness of the weather before retreating inside. We then continued south on a heading of 181^o.

Part 2 of the ‘Last Place on Earth’ was screened and by 4.30pm pieces of ice had started passing the ship. These small pieces became larger ‘bergy-bits’ which with the swell, rose up and down in unison to the sea’s orchestral accompaniment. Soon there were larger ice floes, some having the most beautiful blue hues, along with patches of brown algae beneath which nourish the krill.

 

The ship was no longer on auto-pilot with Daniel the helmsman hand-steering on instructions passed from Maxim (Max) the First Officer. Now in the ice, the birdlife changed and included several new species such as Antarctic Petrels, Southern Fulmar and the beautiful Snow Petrel. These were joined by other petrels, prions, albatross and a Southern Giant Petrel. Mammals seen included one Minke Whale in the morning and four Crabeater Seals in the afternoon. We passed Scott Island a few miles to port but were unable to make it out through the icy haze surrounding the ship.

 

A sumptuous meal included a sushi starter along with blue cod and chips, followed with the singing of ‘Happy Birthday’ to Natalia who then cut her cake. After the festivities many returned to the Bridge to watch the passing ice parade.

 

Day 11. Saturday 19 January – 100 years ago the Terra Nova uplifted the last of the expedition team from Cape Evans. In the ice; Thomas Buccholz’s birthday celebrated; a great day for wildlife, ice floes and icebergs

 

Noon position: Latitude: 68^o18.79S Longitude: 178^o36.38W

Air temperature: 10^oC Water temperature: 2^oC

 

 

We enjoyed a comfortable night with the ship in open areas of water (polynas) at times as we skirted the northern ice edge. We crossed 180^o briefly then re-crossed. At 8.15am we were at 68^oS and 179^oW. Light snow fell in the night and sightings of wildlife included more Crabeater Seals, Adelie Penguins and a Minke Whale. We were now following a course determined by the ice floes while enjoying the brisk fresh air in bursts of bright sunshine which made sunglasses a necessary accessory. Many of us took advantage of the bow and ‘flying bridge’ where we had good visibility. Toni sighted another Minke Whale and some ‘porpoising’ Adelie Penguins were observed. On the Bridge it was interesting to watch Captain Zinchenko studying the ice with his binocular and radar, occasionally relaying a course change to the Helmsman and manually adjusting the throttle for one engine.

 

Many of us saw Part 3 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ and by 11am we were in loose pack ice with the water as calm as a millpond. The calm sea gave us the opportunity to study two large icebergs as we slowly passed between them. At noon the air temperature was a balmy 10^oC and we were moving slowly through the ice at 5.5 knots on a course of 104^o and a little later at 148.5^o. We helped ourselves to lunch today and at 3pm enjoyed Steve’s informative lecture presented with his usual good humour, entitled ‘Frozen Garden - Antarctica’s coolest secrets’. He showed numerous beautiful images and supplemented these with key information from his research. Given our present position, the lecture was very timely.

 

Back on the ‘flying bridge’ interesting sightings included a Southern Fulmar and a Snow Petrel – the latter alighting on the sea, presumably to forage for food. Another pair of Snow Petrels were heard calling as they flew overhead. By 6pm several icebergs, some of them tabular varieties, were seen on the horizon and as we pushed our way at 4 knots through the floes, they appeared to grow larger as each hour passed. After dinner we sang ‘Happy Birthday’ to Thomas, a member of the German film crew. The daily summary of wildlife sightings listed several Emperor and Adelie Penguins, Snow Petrels, Southern Fulmar, Wilson’s Storm Petrels, two Minke Whales and many Crabeater Seals. We were now in 24 hour daylight and had much pleasure watching the passing parade of icebergs. Carolyn and Ian were amused to see three seals (possibly Crabeaters) endeavouring to board an ice floe, only to change their mind when the Spirit of Enderby pushed past. An unnamed photographer was overheard to say “I got a great shot there!” only to have pointed out that the lens cap was still on the camera!

 

Day 12. Sunday 20 January – Entering the Ross Sea; Ross seal sighting and breaching Minke whale. We leave the pack ice.

 

Noon position: Latitude: 69^o29.95S Longitude: 177^o44.44W

Air temperature: 7^oC (here on, mercury thermometer readings also); Water temperature: 2^oC

 

We enjoyed another comfortable night, lulled to sleep by the semi-regular bumps from floes against the hull. Those with good cameras have already obtained some beautiful images including one taken by Lyn of an Antarctic Petrel running over the water surface before taking flight and one of a Snow Petrel taken by Katya. The Snow Petrel had taken a fish that appeared to be too large for it, and although it was not known if the fish was eaten, the bird was later seen rolling on snow and preening itself.

 

Rodney held a briefing before Part 4 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ where he outlined the current ice situation, explaining that a problem with the ice map is that it is usually 24 hours old when received on the ship. At that point we were on a south-south-east course towards open water and managing 4.8-5 knots abeam of Cape Adare. A strong south-south-east wind of up to 35-40 knots was blowing along the west side of the Adare Peninsula and further south, so we may have to head straight to Ross Island and attempt our other landings later as we tracked north.

 

Just as some of us sat down to lunch, Katya announced a Ross Seal was off the port bow. This led to a rapid exodus from the dining room, where we were rewarded with excellent views of this beautiful seal. The animal displayed features such as its bulbous throat with stripes and Alec managed to obtain images of the head and whiskers with his long lens. Although the ship was close, the seal was apparently undisturbed and merely gave us a glance before it settled down to continue its rest. This was a rare sighting of a Ross Seal which because of its preferred habitat in the pack-ice is seldom seen. These animals can attain a length of 2.4m and a weight of 200kg.

 

David later gave his lecture entitled ‘Icons of Exploration’ to an appreciative audience. This talk focused on the work of countries active in the preservation of historic huts. As a forerunner to our site and hut visits, there was an emphasis on work by the Antarctic Heritage Trust. He then touched briefly on his own field work and research during three expeditions to Cape Adare 1982-2003. In the afternoon as we entered a large area of open water with scattered floes there was a sighting of an unidentified whale. At 5.15pm we passed Latitude 70^o South.

 

For the evening meal our chefs provided a superb Sunday roast with a choice of lamb or chicken, roast potato, parsnip, fennel, broccoli, peas and corn on cob. A fine trifle rounded out the tasty meal. During dinner we struck open water on a south-west course for Beaufort Island at the entrance to McMurdo Sound. The ship was again on auto-pilot and our speed picked up to 10.15 knots. In the evening Katya showed her excellent slides of the Snow Petrel and Rodney confirmed that the Ross Seal we had seen today was an adult. He mentioned that he had only seen between 10-20 Ross seals before so today’s sighting was quite rare. He also advised that New Zealand’s Prime Minister, the Right Honourable John Key, is presently visiting Scott Base.

‘The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel’ was the featured movie shown in later that evening and it attracted quite a good crowd. Those who chose to stay out of deck however saw a Minke Whale blowing and breaching close to the ship and a few penguins surface feeding. Around 11pm we were again confronted with ice floes and once more our speed had to be reduced while the Captain considered the best route through leads in the ice. 

 

Day 13. Monday 21 January – Open water; all four Antarctic seal species seen in one day

Noon position: Latitude: 71^o21.32S Longitude: 179^o14.84E

Air temperature: 4^oC (alcohol); 3.5^oC (mercury)

Water temperature: 2^oC

 

The fog which enveloped the ship overnight was gone by morning, but the sun had also disappeared. Although floes were reasonably concentrated, the ice appeared to be thinning as we made our way towards Beaufort Island which lies just north of Ross Island. This morning we saw a variety of birds including numerous Adelie Penguins and the occasional Emperor Penguin. The biggest excitement however was the sighting of our first Weddell Seal. Those not out observing wildlife viewed Part 5 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’. By lunch time we were about mid-way down the Adare Peninsula, although it was too far distant to be seen. Our next significant seal sighting was made by Lyn who spotted the second Ross Seal of the voyage. 

 

At 3pm Katya gave another of her quality lectures, this one entitled ‘The World of Contrasts – Antarctica and the Arctic’. This well-illustrated presentation focused on the physical differences and natural and human history of the Arctic and Antarctic regions. As the day wore on we sighted our first Leopard Seal with Katya saying “this must be a record – all four seal species in one day!” On hearing this comment David swiftly replied with “I presume this gives the seal of approval for wildlife sightings?” Later we enjoyed seeing seven Crabeater Seals on one floe with another two nearby, followed by a second sighting of a Weddell Seal. Throughout the day we watched the beautiful formations of ice glide past until we were once again in open water at 71^o44.12’S; 178^o36.41’E. The second engine was then engaged and we continued southward at a steady 12 knots.

 

There was a lively gathering in the bar as we celebrated leaving the ice, and after the social hour we dined on steamed mussels followed by either blue cod or belly pork and a desert of apricot crumble. After the bird and mammal discussion, a few of us went to the Bridge where we enjoyed observing several Antarctic Petrels as the evening wore on and looked forward to finally landing in the Antarctic.

 

Day 14. Tuesday 22 January – in the Ross Sea; Antarctic Quiz; Gary McCabe’s birthday celebrated

Noon position: Latitude: 74^o21.33’S Longitude: 173^o42.09’E

Air temperature:-2^oC (alcohol);-2.5^oC (mercury) 

Water temperature: +1^oC

We had a fairly comfortable night, but in the morning the ship was rolling a little and the sea scattered with white horses. There were just a few Antarctic Petrels hovering above the ship and Rodney commented on the low numbers of the Southern Fulmar. The open sea was a nice change from the ice we looked forward to visiting the historic huts of Shackleton at Cape Royds (1908) and of Scott at Cape Evans (1911-12). The sea was fairly rough at times and when the ship buried the bow in the troughs of big swells, large waves broke over the foredeck and Bridge windows. It was interesting to see how the two special rotating, heated glass discs on the Bridge windows maintained clear viewing even when this happened. Several Antarctic Petrels and a Snow Petrel circled the ship and Florian from the German camera team photographed a Minke Whale surfacing in foaming water near the bow.

 

In the morning Part 6 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ was screened, but many lay low, finding the cabin bunk the best place to be and there was not a large attendance at lunch. At 3pm David presented his lecture ‘A Charismatic Hero’ which focused on Ernest Shackleton’s British Antarctic (Nimrod) Expedition 1907-1909. He covered achievements of the expedition which whetted our appetites for a hoped visit to Shackleton’s hut. The Antarctic Heritage Trust summer party apparently departs from Cape Evans tomorrow.

 

By mid-afternoon the sea calmed a little and the sun tried to break through the cloud cover. At 5pm Rodney presented an important mandatory lecture on preparation for landings in Antarctica. This mostly focused on IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators) which was formed in 1991 to promote and practice safe and environmentally responsible private-sector activities in the Antarctic. The lecture was followed by a complimentary ‘Russ Sea Roughy’ cocktail during enthusiastic participation in the Antarctic Quiz with Rodney acting as Quiz Master. Gary’s birthday was celebrated over dinner and he was asked where the Irish flag was. We had the regular bird and mammal discussion at 9pm in brilliant sunshine as we looked forward to what promises to be an interesting day tomorrow.

 

Day 15. Wednesday 23 January – 105^th Anniversary of Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition, entering the Ross Sea; mountains of Ross Island; McMurdo Sound; Black Sand Beach, Cape Royds (Shackleton’s hut); Cape Evans (Scott’s Terra Nova hut)

Noon position: Latitude: 77^o 27.14’^oC Longitude: 165^o59.75E

Air temperature: 12^oC (mercury) 15^oC (alcohol)    

Water temperature: +1^oC

 

 

Rodney roused us at 5.15am and soon many were on icy decks enjoying the magnificent vista before us. To Port were the volcanic peaks of Mt. Terror 3230m, Mt. Terra Nova 2130m and Mt. Erebus 3794m, with Abbott Peak 1793m and Mt. Bird 1800m on the skyline. Gazing at the sunlit slopes where the DC10 aircraft went down 34 years ago, reminded us of that tragic day when people left their homes hoping to enjoy the majesty of the Antarctic landscape and did not return. Numerous icebergs were scattered across the ocean and far beyond we could make out the Transantarctic Mountains with the Royal Society Range west of Ross Island prominent. To Starboard the steep volcanic cliffs on the east side of Beaufort Island were varied shades of brown to yellow ochre, grey and black. As we rounded the southern end of the island, the Adelie Penguin colony could be made out on talus slopes along with the edge of the ice cap that is prominent on the west side.

 

Attired in our insulated jackets, warm headwear and gloves we made the most of the bright sunshine in the brisk cold southerly. This is what we had come for. There was plenty of scope for photography and wildlife including a Minke Whale and Weddell Seal. The Captain took the Spirit of Enderby through a narrow belt of floes past the south end of Beaufort Island to open water as we continued south past Cape Bird towards Wohlschlag Bay north of Cape Royds. By 9.45am we were passing Cape Bird where the New Zealand biological field station (formerly the Harrison Laboratory) is located. Off the bow Mt. Discovery (first climbed in 1959) was outstanding while to the west, there was good viewing of the Bowers and Wilson Piedmont Glaciers, the Ferrar Glacier, the location of the Taylor, Victoria and Wright Dry Valleys and the peaks of the Transantarctic Mountains.

 

At 1pm Rodney called us together in the lecture room for a pre-landing briefing. We were now positioned off Cape Barne and had excellent views south to the Delbridge Islands off Cape Evans. With a sense of great excitement we were shuttled to Black Sand Beach about a mile north of Cape Royds. A thirty minute walk over a ‘lunar landscape’ with the grey volcanic rock feldspar crystals sparkling in the bright sunlight, soon had us passing a US field station. From here Dr David Ainley’s group is monitoring the southernmost Adelie Penguin colony. We grouped near the green New Zealand refuge hut at the edge of the ASPA (Antarctic Specially protected Area). With only 40 allowed in the ASPA at any one time (including eight in the historic hut) we were able to enjoy views of the environment and the southernmost Adelie Penguin colony.

 

When we arrived at Shackleton’s hut erected in 1908, we went through an elaborate boot brush process before approaching the entrance along a vinyl mat. Actually visiting this place we had all read and heard so much about made history come alive and was quite a unique experience, even for those few who had been here previously. It was interesting to see the extent of restoration by work teams from the organisation responsible for preservation, the Antarctic Heritage Trust (AHT). Even timber used for a replica external door was weathering and appeared similar to Baltic pine elsewhere on the hut. About 5pm we began walking back to the beach. Some of us enjoyed a spell on a knoll with great views of the Western Mountains and Pearl proudly unfurled China’s national flag. Our chefs again produced a sumptuous dinner with very fine lamb and Chatham Islands monkfish, then after a further briefing we prepared to land at Cape Evans.

 

We landed at a site outside Captain Scott’s Terra Nova expedition hut from which he left for the Pole on 1 November 1911. At this time the great Norwegian Arctic explorer Roald Amundsen was already well on his way to the South Pole; this being his only visit to Antarctica. This fairly large hut was later occupied in 1911-13 and by the Shackleton Ross Sea Party in 1915-17. The AHT has undertaken considerable work on this hut which is undoubtedly the most important historic hut in Antarctica. We landed about 9pm to be greeted by a young Weddell Seal loafing in snow outside. The ASPA here is similarly restricted to 40 although the much larger hut could have 12 at any one time. On entering the porch we proceeded to walk quietly about the interior where David explained aspects related to the occupancy by Scott’s party in 1911-1912 along with Ross Sea party members in 1915-1917 and features in the adjoining annex and stables.

 

Some of us visited the Trust’s summer complex which included a purpose-built conservation laboratory and there met Artefact Conservation Manager Lizzie Meek and three members of her specialist team. Others enjoyed a short walk up Wind Vane Hill to the Memorial Cross erected in 1917. This commemorates the loss of Mackintosh, Hayward and Spencer-Smith the previous year. As with Shackleton’s hut, each person gained something special from their visit. This may have been a memory of a famous photo by Herbert Ponting and viewing his photographic darkroom; quietly playing Waltzing Matilda as a lament on a harmonica (Andrew) in Griffith Taylor’s cubicle; posing beside the beds once occupied by Irishmen Tom Crean and Patrick Keohane (Gary) or enjoying the peaceful ambience with subdued lighting from a small window above Scott’s bed. Toni said she felt the presence of someone close to her. Brian who had visited the hut previously said “as soon as I saw the wardroom table the hair came up on my neck – it made a difference being one of the last in the hut”. Valerie from Canada also on her second visit remarked “when I saw the (recreated) bulkhead, I felt that any moment I could look over my shoulder and think someone was coming in”. Such is the effect a visit to Scott’s Terra Nova hut has on people.

 

By 11pm we were back on board after an extraordinary day blessed with the most perfect weather. Discussions about all we had seen today continued long into the night.

Day 16. Thursday 24 January – the ice edge with pods of Orca Whales; views of Observation Hill, the Transantarctic Mountains and Ross Island coastline; Cape Bird – Adelie Penguins; Cape Crozier; Ross Ice Shelf.

 

Noon position: Latitude: 77^o16.120S Longitude: 166^o12.30E

Air temperature:-08.50C (Merc)-1(Alc) [at 08.15 -0.3^oC bridge computer – not always on]

Water temperature: +1.4^oC

 

This morning Rodney called us at 7.20am and we surfaced to a most beautiful morning with bright sunlight and a light breeze creating a ruffled sea. With no icebreaker having arrived to cut the channel essential for access to McMurdo Station, we enjoyed a cruise along the edge of the fast ice which was broken up by wind, wave and tides. At about 8am we reached what would ultimately be the furthest south for this expedition at 77^o38’S. Along the ice edge we saw pods of Orca along with some Minke Whales. In the distance we could see Observation Hill which has the Memorial Cross to Scott and his four men who died in 1912, Cape Armitage below and on Crater Hill, the Meridian wind farm which has greatly reduced the need of diesel fuel to run the generators for both Scott Base and the US McMurdo Station. Part 7 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’ was screened and we gradually made our way north past the Delbridge Islands, Cape Evans and Cape Royds toward Cape Bird where the New Zealand research summer station is located.

 

Following a briefing we were landed in beautiful weather on the beach near the southern colony of Adelie Penguins. Here two glorious hours were spent observing and photographing adults and chicks. By 3.45pm we were underway for the Ross Ice Shelf. We had a good view of the Cape Bird field station, Beaufort Island and again of the volcanic peaks seen yesterday morning. Karen was ecstatic. “I got a wonderful photo of a whale – but it was just a fluke!” she said. Soon after 8pm we neared Cape Crozier where we could make out snow patterns which indicating the path of violent winds sweeping over the landscape and also the location of the ‘rock igloo’ to right of The Knoll. This was built by Dr Edward Wilson, Henry Bowers and Apsley Cherry-Garrard during the famous ‘worst journey in the world’ in July 1911. We could also make out the large Adelie Penguin colony, where a message post from Scott’s Discovery expedition (1901-1904) still stands.

 

It was however the vast floating Ross Ice Shelf which is the area of France that attracted our attention. We were now positioned at 77^o25’S 169^o24.9’E. This huge feature butting against Ross Island at Cape Crozier has a series of ice ‘canyons’ where in comparative shelter, Emperor Penguins can breed on the sea ice in winter. The face of the 50m ice shelf appeared to have been sculpted by a giant artist’s pallet knife while below the sea was a beautiful turquoise colour. There was a sucking and crashing sound from the wave action beneath the over-hanging ice, while a few ‘growlers’ (water-worn pieces of ice barely on the surface) floated by. From the ‘monkey deck’ or ‘flying bridge’ as it is known, a shout of “thar she blows!” was heard, as a pair of Orca briefly surfaced.

 

Rodney gave us some fascinating facts about the ice shelf, such as the average thickness is 330m or 1100ft to 700m or 2300ft and about 1/7th is below the surface. He also told us the story of its discovery in 1841. We pondered what it must have been like for the early explorers who trudged for weeks or months on end, over this great white ‘desert’. At 9.15pm we turned north for Franklin Island about 90 nautical miles away. What a day!

Day 17. Friday 25 January – Franklin Island

 

Noon position; Latitude: 75^o59’S Longitude: 167^o52’E

Air temperature:-5oC (both thermometers)

Water temperature:-1^oC

 

This morning we arrived off the east coast of Franklin Island on another glorious morning and minus 2^oC at 6.15am. Our position was 76^o09.46’S, 168^o18.69’E. After breakfast Rodney introduced the island and its history. The latter included the naming by Ross after Sir John Franklin, then Governor of Tasmania. By 8.30am we were ashore at the Adelie Penguin colony, enjoying a further photographic opportunity with adults and chicks about three to four weeks old (some moulting), Skuas and a Weddell Seal. David was particularly interested in the evolution of the coastal geomorpholgy, while Dan compiled a map of the area. On the ice cliff along the back shore we saw weird freeze-thaw formations and ponds along the edge of a melt-water stream. Even Alec’s Polar Bear stuffed toy named Con (after Scott’s family nickname), enjoyed being photographed with a penguin as he lay on the cold, stony surface. Con who was born on the Equator (Singapore) had previously visited the Arctic. Off-shore were several icebergs, one of which had a tunnel and another was a beautiful deep blue, indicating old ice. By 10am we were back on board and en route for Terra Nova Bay and Inexpressible Island. We spent the rest of the day logging photos and viewing the film ‘Ice Bird’, a Natural History New Zealand production on the life cycle of the Adelie Penguin.

 

Before dinner the 2732m volcanic cone of Mt. Melbourne came into view as we neared the west side of the Ross Sea. The volcano is not active although there are areas of warm ground and fumeroles near the summit. Preparations were then made for a possible landing in the morning on Inexpressible Island.

Day 18. Saturday 26 January – Australia Day. Inexpressible Island; Gerlache Inlet; Terra Nova Bay

 

Noon position: Latitude 74^o44.96S Longitude 164^o15.6E

Air temperature: +1.5^oC (Alc. & Mec)

Water temperature: +1^oC

 

 

With the exception of a few of us who spent the night enjoying magic views from the ship, the remainder were woken by Rodney on the PA at 2.30am. Thirty minutes later we were in the lecture room for a briefing on our landing on Inexpressible Island. There was little time for much else as the area is notorious for the sudden arrival of the katabatic wind that can become quite violent. By 3.30am the landing operation was underway and soon most of us were assembled on an area of large granite boulders, in preparation for a walk of about one and a half kilometres to the site of the ice cave we had come to visit. This is beyond doubt, the holy grail of historic sites associated with Scott’s last expedition. Here six men comprising the Northern Party were incarcerated for nearly 200 days, including the 1912 winter. A beautiful sunrise was appreciated along with the interesting hike over undulating glacial moraine. Along the way we encountered eight Weddell seals. One of these had a beautiful silver-grey pelt with white and dark grey blotches and was vocalising as if singing, while another was described by Katya as “chirping like a bird”. This means of communication is also used when in the water. We also saw a few Adelie Penguins from the nearby colony, South Polar Skuas, interesting rocks of various colours and at least three species of ‘crustose’ lichens with black lichen being the most prominent.

 

It was a great thrill for us to arrive at the site of the cave which had ablated away within the last five decades. A bamboo and some seal bones were visible along with the four Antarctic Treaty plaques (English, Russian, French and Spanish) and a much weathered earlier wooden plaque placed a few decades ago. Many of us climbed an adjacent low hill from which men of the Northern Party perhaps kept watch for their ship which never arrived to pick them up because of the heavy pack ice. Very interesting moraine debris exhibited weathering from freeze-thaw, salt action and foliation. From the top we enjoyed a magnificent view down to Evans Cove and back to Hells Gate Moraine, including the Priestley Glacier named for Raymond (later Sir Raymond) Priestley, a geologist with the Northern Party and the earlier Shackleton Nimrod expedition at Cape Royds. The Terra Nova left a cache of food and equipment including a Nansen cooker on the moraine in 1913, although this was removed a few years ago by the Antarctic Heritage Trust, to ensure preservation. It seemed incredible that the Northern Party had to drag their supplies from Hells Gate to the site of the ice cave, then after roughing it for over six months, trekking down the coast, only to receive news of the loss of the Polar Party.

 

With the sky turning dark to the south, we were all back on board by 6am. Soon the weather had turned and two days of bad weather from the south-east was forecast. Many had a couple of hours rest and during breakfast a group which would charitably be called a choir, launched into “Advance Australia Fair” over the PA system. By 10am we were approaching the site of Germany’s small occasionally occupied summer station named Gondwana located at Gerlache Inlet. The Captain was continually watching the radar and echo sounder as we navigated several bergs and ‘bergy-bits’ through the murk with only brief views of land ahead. With snow driving in from the south, Rodney and Katya set out to check the possibility of making a further landing, but decided that conditions made it too hazardous. We then moved on and with wind and seas getting up, we were asked to keep clear of the Bridge where the Captain and officers were busy with navigation. This request was possibly what led to the snow fight on deck, which took place between a combined Australia/New Zealand team versus English passengers, with the main instigators being Vicki and Lyn. Brian G declared the Anzacs the winners!

 

During the afternoon David gave his presentation ‘Triumph and Tragedy’ which focused on Scott’s ill-fated 1910-1913 expedition including reference to the Northern Party along with the expeditions of Norway’s Roald Amundsen and Japan’s Nobu Shirase. In the evening the bird and mammal list was postponed until tomorrow and the amusing Australian movie ‘The Castle’ was screened. And so another great day with Rodney and Heritage Expeditions had come to an end. What an adventure!

 

Day 19. Sunday 27 January – off Cape Washington, Victoria Land coast with Admiralty Mountains, Cape Roget, Possession Islands, Cape McCormick and Adare Peninsula with all visible. 

 

Noon position: Latitude 73^o52.85’S Longitude 171^o14.7’E

Air temperature: +1^oC (Alc and Merc)

Water temperature: +1^oC

 

Our day began with a dramatic change in the weather. The Spirit of Enderby rolled a little in the night however by morning we were 240 miles from Cape Adare and the wind and sea were gradually easing. At 10am the Natural History New Zealand production of ‘Solid Water, Liquid Rock’ was screened. This excellent production filmed by renowned Dunedin photographer Max Quinn centred on Mt. Erebus. The DVD was followed by David’s final lecture covering the ‘heroic-era’ entitled ‘Fortunes and Misfortunes’. His presentation focused on the generally little known Shackleton Ross Sea Party of 1914-1917 during World War I, with reference to several Australian expedition members David was privileged to have known. By 1pm we were over 500m of water and far to the west could be seen rugged Coulman Island, with two peaks of 940m and 640m, along with talus cones formed by debris from steep rocky cliffs above. In 1902 the Discovery expedition left a message post here and an Emperor Penguin colony is also on the island. With the sea much calmer and a fine day developing, the crew took the opportunity of opening and washing Bridge windows. A relaxing day with an opportunity to read, play cards or attend documentaries and lectures unfolded. As the afternoon continued the sky cleared to a pale blue with light scattered cloud and Victoria Land to the west became much clearer. The second documentary screened for the day was ‘The Last Ocean’. This programme concerned the harvesting of tooth fish (popularly termed ‘Antarctic Cod’) in the Ross Sea and concern for the species future, including the need for further knowledge on the physiology and a possible Marine Reserve.

 

At 5pm we enjoyed an interesting lecture by Rodney entitled ‘Pelagic Whaling in the Ross Sea 1923/24-1932-33’ when we learned that in the 1930/31 season alone a total of 2482 Blue and 310 Fin Whales were taken with a total of 2908 whales from the Ross Sea. Rodney mentioned that he had been privileged to meet and interview several New Zealand whalers for an oral history university project and that he had never seen a Blue Whale. After dinner Katya showed her video with recordings of Weddell Seal vocalisations she recorded yesterday.

 

Despite a thin veil of evening cloud, we admired Mt. Herschel (3335m) and Mt. Minto (4165m), both named by Ross in 1841. Doing a creditable 13.26 knots, we passed the Emperor Penguin colony on Cape Roget, the Possession Islands (two of which had a volcanic pillar at one end) and later Cape McCormick where a few Giant Petrels paid a visit. As the evening proceeded, the Adare Saddle at the head of Robertson Bay came into view followed by Adare Peninsula, with its high snow covered peak of 2083m at the south end and the Downshire Cliffs. Much further along the peninsula could be seen Hanson Peak (1256m) named after the 1899 expedition biologist Nicolai Hanson.

 

The sea was beautifully calm and the evening too nice not to spend even a brief spell on deck or the Bridge enjoying the magic vista unfolding before us. With pack ice appearing to the west and north-west as shown by the satellite map, our course was altered to open water with speed reduced slightly to 12.27 knots. High hopes were held for a landing in the morning.

 

Day 20. Monday 28 January – Southern Ocean; in the ice; en-route to Campbell Island

Noon position: Latitude71^o46S Longitude 173^o48’E

Air temperature: 20^oC (Alc); 14.5^oC (Merc)

Water temperature: 0^oC

 

At 02.40am in the morning Rodney announced that after two hours of trying, it would not be possible to land at Cape Adare. Although disappointed, we had had some warning that this may be the case as the satellite ice maps showed that last year had been an extremely heavy year for sea ice in the Ross Sea. Cape Adare is well known for severe weather and ice conditions with the ice foot along the shore sometimes even preventing access to the beach. Such conditions were well known to the early expeditions of Borchgrevink and Campbell and indeed in more recent decades, a reason why comparatively few parties have landed by sea. However we were lucky enough to experience a calm sea and a fine day as we headed south-east for about 10 hours to access the track we had when we first entered the ice on the way south. Rodney said it would take about 9-10 hours to cover 107 nautical miles, after which we would turn north en route to Campbell Island.

 

At 10am a full theatre enjoyed the Paramount production ‘With Byrd to the South Pole’. This told the story of USN Rear Admiral Richard E. Byrd’s first expedition to Antarctica from 1928 to 1930. His ships were the City of New York (a wooden sailing ship named as a compliment to the city fathers) and Eleanor Bolling (a small steamer named after Byrd’s mother). This expedition established a base they named ‘Little America’ at the Bay of Whales on the Ross Ice Shelf. During the expedition Byrd made an 18 hour flight of around 1600 miles in a Ford Tri-motor named Floyd Bennett to the vicinity of the Geographic South Pole.

 

The DVD was then followed by Katya’s very interesting talk on the ‘Evolution and Adaption of Marine Mammals’. Katya focused on Cetacea and Pinnipeds (Eared and True Seals). We learned how the cetaceans evolved from a species of toothed carnivore around 53mya then diverged and split following the opening of the sea around Antarctica. The Pinnipeds appear to have evolved around 20mya with an ancestral animal found in the Northern Territory of Australia. Many interesting aspects of adaption considered anatomy, physiology, thermoregulation and echolocation.

 

We returned to the theatre at 3pm for Part One of ‘Shackleton’ starring Kenneth Branagh. This excellent production focused on the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition Weddell Sea (Endurance Party) of 1914-16. At the conclusion of the viewing, Bernd presented a summary of Frank Hurley’s career and drew attention to books in our ship-board library. After an excellent dinner of either oxtail casserole or cod the bird and mammal list for the day was discussed. Numerous Adelie Penguins, Giant Petrels (including a ‘White-morph’ seen by Lyn) and a few Snow Petrels were recorded.

 

About 8.25pm we encountered heavier ice so had to begin a rather erratic course as the Captain directed the helmsman to manoeuvre through leads. Rodney announced that the wreck of the missing Canadian Twin Otter aircraft was found today. It appears the aircraft may have flown into a mountain during bad weather, 56 miles south of the Beardmore Glacier. A beautiful sunset developed around midnight with a horizon of gold, merging into orange, mauve and finally a dark purple. Numerous Adelie Penguins were seen in the water and on floes along with a solitary seal, that Pearl said “poked its head out of the water”.

 

Day 21. Tuesday 29^th January – Southern Ocean; in the ice

Noon position: Latitude 71^o09.92’S Longitude 179^o20’W

Air temperature: 3.6^oC (Merc); 4^oC (Alc)

Water temperature: +1^oC

 

 

This morning we passed by a large moulting Emperor Penguin in an area with heavy ice floes. Rodney pointed out that there had been little movement in the ice since a week ago so the ice belt may be in this area for a while yet. The sea was very calm throughout the morning with just a slight ripple from an almost negligible breeze. At times it was quite foggy although this cleared after a while, leaving a heavy cloud cover. Adelie Penguins and several Snow Petrels obligingly appeared, enabling the bird enthusiasts to capture further images before we left the ice floes. At 10am Part One of the outstanding documentary ‘Life in the Freezer’ narrated by Sir David Attenborough was shown, and then our history lecturer David gave his presentation entitled ‘Douglas Mawson – Stalwart of the Heroic Era’. This was of particular interest to the Australian contingents, some of whom were very knowledgeable on Mawson or had a connection with the family. Afterwards we sat down to Lindsay’s excellent seafood chowder with fresh buns for lunch.

 

During the afternoon some people took advantage of the calm sea to enjoy circuits of the deck, while others opted for the ‘vertical’ workout on the stairways. With the excellent food and beverages on board it is important to work off a few kilojoules! The second part of ‘Shackleton’ screened at 3pm was well attended, while others enjoyed seeing a pod of Orca near the ice edge, along with a flock of 20-30 Snow Petrels with several resting on an ice floe. There was also a pair of Minke Whales near the ship with Neil obtaining an excellent photograph. The bar was well patronised in the evening and we enjoyed the usual sumptuous evening meal preceded with antipasto, before attending the bird and mammal sighting discussion. At 9pm we were at 70^o15’S 176^o42.78 W and treated to a passing parade of magnificent icebergs and ‘bergy-bits’. One berg seen to Starboard resembled a fairyland castle with another almost identical iceberg seen later to Port, while a further two resembled a large ship and a rhinoceros. Far to the east an enormous tabular berg hovered on the horizon.

 

Day 22. Wednesday 30 January – Southern Ocean; in the ice

 

Noon position: Latitude 68^o53.0’S Longitude 177^o36.4’W

Air temperature: +1^oC (Alc); +0.9^oC (Merc)

Water temperature: +1^oC

 

Part 2 of ‘Life in the Freezer’ was screened this morning, then at noon Steve gave an excellent presentation he called ‘Licence to Krill – Antarctica’s Web of Life’. In his lecture the significance of phytoplankton (diatoms) and zooplankton (e.g. a euphasid popularly termed krill) was explained. He particularly emphasised the significance to other animals in the ocean along with flying birds and also the role of climate and ocean circulation.

By 1pm we were heading in a north-westerly direction and Rodney considered it would not be long before we left the ice. During the afternoon we saw two Crabeater Seals as a swell was beginning to create larger openings in the floes. We returned to the lecture theatre in the afternoon for Part One of ‘Longitude’. This documentary concerned the 40 year struggle to win a £20,000 prize to prove a mechanical clock was the solution for accurately measuring longitude.

 

During the afternoon Katya alerted us to an iceberg with beautiful deep blue colouring nearby, which began a discussion about differing colours. Firstly, snow appears white because air trapped between ice crystals making up the snow scatter, reflecting all wave lengths of sunlight back into our eyes. This is seen by us as white, however compacted glacial ice from which many icebergs are derived, retain small ice bubbles which scatter light, allowing the penetration of sunlight deep into the ice. Ice crystals absorb six times as much light at the red end of the spectrum as at the blue end. Since the ice absorbs most of the red light, only the blue end of the spectrum is reflected back at us to see. The best viewing is normally very old multi-year ice, although under certain conditions including with no sunlight present, the observer can also be rewarded. The deck soon had a number of keen photographers braving the cold temperatures. We were still in the ice during the evening, although going by the movement of the ship after dinner, open water was not very far away. 

Day 23. Thursday 31 January – Southern Ocean

 

Noon position: Latitude 65^o71.8’S Longitude 177^o45.2’E

Air temperature: +3^oC (Alc) +2.4^oC (Merc)

Water temperature: 0^oC

 

 

After a comfortable night we woke to a calm sea with an occasional prion flying above. At 00.30am Paul sighted Scott Island to the west and compiled a quick sketch. We had not seen this elusive island on the voyage south and Paul had captured this glimpse between the sun setting about an hour earlier and imminent sunrise. He also completed a sketch of Haggitt’s Pillar, another feature of volcanic origin. This morning Steve reported passing a beautiful berg consisting of old glacial ice, and seven Humpback Whales were reported. Brian G said the blows, with one whale breaching with its head out of the water, were a magnificent sight. Rodney suggested we must be crossing the edge of the Continental Shelf where whales returning from breeding in the Pacific come south to feed. Although we had left the ice, there was still much to enjoy.

 

We continued to travel at about 12.5 knots and had around 848 nautical miles to run before our expected arrival at Campbell Island on the 3rd of February. More whales including Humpbacks and two Fin Whales were sighted during the morning but with a cold wind blowing, not many ventured out on deck. After the opening of the Sea Shop, which enabled us to purchase various mementos as reminders of this remarkable expedition, the final episodes of ‘Life in the Freezer’ were screened. The sea was a little rough, keeping many in their cabins as we headed into a broadly spaced swell on a north-west track. Birds seen included Black-browed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Antarctic, Mottled and White-headed Petrels, Shearwaters (perhaps drawn to scraps stirred up or left by feeding whales) and South Polar Skuas. The last penguins, notably an Emperor and some porpoising Adelies were also seen.

 

This afternoon photographer Herbert Ponting’s film donated by Brian G under a new title ‘90 Degrees South’ was screened. This excellent film was introduced by Scott’s Second in Command Lieutenant Edward Evans (later Admiral then Lord Mountevans) and Herbert Ponting. The photography of the Terra Nova and wildlife was particularly impressive. We had a very enjoyable evening in the bar with a ‘Whodunnit’ contest organised by Steve, where passengers had to identify a staff member linked to a particular experience. This provided much amusement, but details are perhaps best left out of this record! After dinner the bird and mammal sightings were recorded and the rest of the evening was spent playing cards or relaxing.

 

Day 24 – Friday 1 February – Southern Ocean

 

Noon position: Latitude 61^o06.95’S Longitude 174^o34’E

Air temperature: +6^oC (Alc and Merc)

Water temperature: +2^oC

 

The good ship Spirit of Enderby rocked and rolled a little in the night, but the day began with reasonably calm seas and light rain. At 9am we had 573 nautical miles to run before reaching Campbell Island about lunchtime on Sunday. With occasional large sheets of spray coming over the bow, this area was closed for the morning, as was the ‘monkey bridge’. During the morning we turned the passageway on Level 3 into a bowling alley using a ball made from gloves and paper cups as pins. Brendon emerged the victor of this bowling contest. Later Lyn and Vicki had a quoits competition throwing the tops from small rubbish containers over paper cups. Now that showed initiative! Later the second part of ‘Longitude’ was screened and during the afternoon Katya gave an excellent presentation entitled ‘Marine Mammals and Sound’. This focused on how sounds are produced, the unique process known as echolocation and how various mammals such as whales react to these sounds. One example given was of two Humpback Whales communicating from opposite ends of the Atlantic Ocean.

 

In the evening the wind came up and chefs Lindsay and Bobby along with some willing helpers did a magnificent job preparing and serving dinner. Rodney told us about problems being encountered by ships on the Antarctic Peninsula, with one having Bridge windows damaged and a large cabin window being broken on another. One ship was forced to turn back when faced with terrible weather just 13 hours out of Ushuaia in Argentina.

 

By early evening the wind from the north to north-west quarter began gusting to 30-35 knots and we were advised to stay away from the Bridge and if out and about, to “keep one hand on the ship and the other to oneself”. As the seas became rougher we looked forward to seeking shelter in the lee of Campbell Island. These conditions certainly gave us a good understanding of the experience of mariners in the 1800s who were wrecked on the rugged coastline of Auckland Island.

 

Day 25. Saturday 2 February – Southern Ocean

 

Noon position: Latitude 57^o12.27’S Longitude 171^o53.17E

Air temperature: +9oC (Alc and Merc)

Water temperature: +5^oC

We certainly rock n’ rolled last night and at some stage, we passed over the Convergence. The wind was true to form and many of us did a ‘dance’ on the bed, as we went from one end to the other and back again, for much of the night. Chairs and bags waltzed up and down the cabin floor and cupboard doors opened and shut in orchestral fashion. Katya said she found a camera memory chip which she lost three weeks ago! This morning the skies were clearing and with the wind subsiding, so most of us managed to catch up on some sleep. Once the sea was a little more benign it was good to be out in fresh air on the deck. A fine sight was a pair of Light-mantled Sooty Albatross gliding above the waves while at the same time, maintaining distance between them. Most of us took advantage of a rest today and few decided to have lunch.

 

At 4.30pm Rodney gave a presentation on Campbell Island ahead of our proposed landing tomorrow. This lecture outlined both the human and natural history of this volcanic island, along with his own personal reminiscences of extensive time spent there. The human history focused on early scientific Antarctic and Subantarctic expeditions, whaling, farming (initially 2000 Leicester-Merino sheep, 8 cattle and 2 horses), the World War II Cape Expedition, former manned meteorological station (closed 1995 and replaced with automated system) and pest eradication since 1990. The natural history information included reference to Rodney having discovered on his first visit, the Campbell Island Flightless Teal in 1975 on La Dent Island when this small bird was thought to be extinct. The island is also important for the breeding or presence of several species of Albatross, the endemic Campbell Island Shag and very important species of ‘megaherbs’ that have flourished since the pest eradication programme.

 

Light rain fell during the evening and the bird and mammal meeting reported for the last two days, observations of six species of Albatross and the departure of various Antarctic species. Also of interest was a New Zealand Fur Seal sleeping on the surface with one flipper and the tail flippers raised. The seal appeared to remain asleep for some time after the ship had passed and then woke and swam away.

 

Day 26. Sunday 3 February – Southern Ocean; Campbell Island – Col Lyall walk

Noon position: Latitude 53^o16.98’S Longitude: 169^o38.92’E

Air temperature: 10^oC (Alc) 9.5^oC (Merc)

Water temperature: 8^oC

 

 

The ship’s speed slowed to 6-7 knots overnight due to a strong northerly wind. By the time we started the day however, the ship was rolling under westerly conditions. At 9am we still had 78 nautical miles to go with arrival at Perseverance Harbour scheduled for about 4pm. Many seabirds were now about the ship and we had excellent views of albatross soaring on the breeze. The sea gradually calmed with the ship giving an occasional roll. Nevertheless many enjoyed a chance to rest up before our proposed landing. Some sighted what we thought was a Rockhopper Penguin far from home (or was it ‘Happy Feet’?) The prions with their characteristic brief flapping of wings and short glides were also of interest. Steve did a fine job of assisting in the galley and making a stir-fry for lunch. Others including Dan have helped with peeling potatoes or during rough conditions, by clearing tables and serving meals.

 

At 2.30pm with only 16 nautical miles to go, Campbell Island began to appear through the mist. Far to Port we had views of Jacquemart Island; one of several volcanic rock stacks named Le Boote; and Mt. Dumas (499m). These are just a few of several landmarks with French names given at the time of the French Expedition which called here in 1873 and again in 1874, to observe the Transit of Venus. As we neared Campbell Island, many seabirds were apparent with sightings of albatross, the Campbell Island Shag, Antarctic Tern, Cape Petrel and Yellow-eyed Penguin. We also noticed large purple and brown jellyfish ranging in size from dinner to bread and butter plates around the ship. By 4pm we had entered Perseverance Harbour with lava flows visible on wave washed cliffs and hillsides clothed in grass and Dracophyllum scrub. As we anchored in 28m of water, Rodney called us to the lecture room for a pre-landing briefing and by 4.45pm we began to go ashore.

 

We landed on a slipway upon which a rubber mat had been placed, and once assembled Rodney led the way along a board walk past the New Zealand Meteorological Service buildings past Beeman Hill, to the site of the Southern Royal Albatross colony. Here scattered over the landscape are around 7,000 birds on nests. Also of interest were magnificent flowering Pleurophylum speciosom with clusters of bright purple flowers and very tame Campbell Island Pipits, with one landing on Margaret’s head while another took a fancy to David’s feet. Unfortunately a front came through as we walked and with the rain, a strong gusting wind. A number of the group decided to turn back, while others including Bernd enjoyed reaching the junction to the new board walk where we could observe two albatross on nests barely a metre away. In spite of the weather change, the visit to the albatross colony was very satisfying. Rodney was able to tell us that probably all the birds were sitting on eggs which should hatch in about one month. After fledging, the one-year old birds depart and do not return from the sea for three to five years. On return, the adolescent albatross develop their relationship with a partner they choose for life. Today we saw young birds pair bonding with some elegant hovering over the partner on the nest, then landing and greeting by ‘bill-clappering’ as the wonderful pair-bonding process took place. The chick when hatched eventually returns to the locality to nest and have young. Steve told us that this has enabled species such as the Campbell Island Albatross to develop in isolation. We were indeed privileged to witness this important part of their life cycle.

 

On return to the landing a few had the pleasure of seeing a pair of large Yellow-eyed Penguin chicks that emerged from bushes, along with a pair of New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lion females that were most interested in the gallery of human faces staring down from the landing. Back on board a hot shower never felt better! While many of us exchanged our individual experiences in the bar, our chefs did a great job by making dinner (lamb or chicken curry) available by 9.15pm. Later in the evening a presentation was made by Ann and Andrew to Brian Gofton. An elaborate art work created by Andrew in the form of a scroll with red wool tie awarded the ‘Wooden Spoon Award for Meritorious Service in Fellow Passenger Stirring’. About 20 attended the impressive ceremony.

 

Day 27. Monday 4 February – Campbell Island – Col Lyall walk and Zodiac cruising; Southern Ocean; en route to Bluff

 

Noon position: Latitude: 52^o33.035’S Longitude: 169^o09.011’E

Air temperature: 10.9^oC (Merc); 11.5^oC (Alc)

Water temperature:  10^oC

 

 

Marieke roused us at 6.50am and we rose refreshed from a good night’s sleep to a beautiful calm morning. After breakfast Rodney announced plans for the day. As conditions were good, about 20 opted for the return walk to Col Lyall and a further opportunity to view the magnificent Albatross, Pleurophyllum and other aspects of nature on this wonderful island. Others preferred to catch up on expedition records and the take one of two Zodiac rides to various historic sites around Carnley harbour. It was interesting to see crew take part in a lifeboat drill when the two lifeboats were lowered.

 

Three Zodiacs operated by Katya, Steve and Marieke with 18 passengers on board left at 10am with the second cruise scheduled to depart at noon. There was a notable sighting of a flock of around 50 Shearwaters near the former meteorological station buildings, along with female sea lions amongst the kelp which extends a short distance offshore around the coastline. The first stop was at Camp Cove where we enjoyed photographing inquisitive sea lions, one of which breached totally from the water. At the head of the bay we landed on a small beach with shells of Blue Mussel and Limpet along with a few small top shells amongst the Ulva (sea lettuce). An historic rock wall of basalt boulders and a rock ‘jetty’ were nearby and what appeared to be flint (perhaps ship ballast) was amongst beach material. We walked up a slope and there standing proudly all alone was the only visible remnant of the old farm homestead, a Shacklock Orion coal range in amazingly good condition. We could not get over the extent at which non-indigenous plants had taken hold. The ubiquitous clover, docks and Paspallum, all of which appear on New Zealand farms, along with various grasses, were well established with the occasional Bulbinella rossi scattered throughout. Of great interest was a large black Giant Petrel that appeared to have a nest nearby. From the sea we could observe where the thick Dracophyllum merged with tussock grass higher up the slope, and part of a fence line used when plans were being made to remove sheep. Rodney was involved in this work.

 

The next stop was Camp Cove where we photographed a pair of well-developed Red-billed Gull chicks with an adult. We walked over undulating wet ground to view the ‘loneliest tree in the world’. This Spruce, featured in the Guinness Book of Records, with its dark-green foliage, appeared to be flourishing, while a nearby stream was an indication of the high annual rainfall. Katya led a group to try and find the house site of ‘The Lady of the Heather’ although on this quest they were unsuccessful. We departed just as light rain set in and were treated to a great display by several inquisitive sea lions. On the return to the Spirit of Enderby we passed Garden Cove where Black-backed Gulls and the Campbell Island Shag were seen, and at Venus Cove we made out the site of the camp where the Transit of Venus was observed in 1874. By 11.30am we were back at the ship.

 

Those who re-visited Col Lyall were also pleased with their visit and the opportunity to obtain further photographs in better conditions, enhancing future memories of the expedition. Apart from a little rain at the start of the walk, conditions were good at the top. On the way back one group saw a female sea lion with a pup suddenly appear from bushes beside the board walk. It was remarkable to see the sea lions about 200 feet above sea level. Some commented that the landscape of pale yellow-brown tussock grass, olive-green Dracophyllum and grey, lichen encrusted rock outcrops on slopes about our anchorage reminded them of parts of Otago in New Zealand’s South Island.

 

At 2.10pm while we enjoyed leak and potato soup, the anchors were raised and preparations made for departure from Perseverance Harbour. By 2.40pm we were on our way from Campbell Island and within ten minutes we were again in the open sea. During the afternoon our insulated jackets, Zodiac life belts and any gumboots were handed in to Marieke. For those of us on the ‘monkey-bridge’ there were excellent views of albatross, Giant Petrel, Cape Petrel and the occasional Campbell Island Shag in the bright sunshine. It was fascinating to watch each of these birds appear to handle the air pocket behind and along the sides of the ship differently. David was amazed at what he achieved with his ‘point and shoot’ but said he had yet to capture an albatross. Although the sea was up and causing the ship to roll, we were very satisfied with our opportunity to take just a few more bird photographs. Once again the Captain altered course so we could enjoy an uneventful evening meal which this time was a buffet. The bird and mammal report meeting followed, after which most of us retired to our cabins and made sure all was secure for the night.

 

Day 28. Tuesday 5 February – En route to Bluff

Noon position: Latitude: 48^o06’S Longitude: 49^o69’E

Air temperature: 11^oC (Alc)

Water temperature:  10^oC

 

We were now on the final leg to New Zealand. Yesterday 30 knot winds were forecast from the south-west and due to this the ship rolled most of the night. By 8.15am we had just 150 nautical miles to run. The morning was spent very quietly with not many out and about. At 1.20pm Rodney advised that a course change was being made, so we could make our approach to Bluff in the lea of New Zealand’s Stewart Island. Fortunately this eliminated some of the roll and enabled us to attend to packing. The Bridge advised that last evening we rolled at one stage to 55^o. By 6pm we were near The Traps, a series of rocky outcrops at sea-level named by the great navigator James Cook. Stewart Island was clearly visible to Port by 7pm and at 8pm we could also see the outline of New Zealand’s South Island with just 36 nautical miles to go. We were now at Latitude 47^o13.0 S and Longitude 168^o24.8’E.

Our chefs with help of Natalia, Albina and the staff produced what can only be described as an outstanding sumptuous farewell dinner. Antipasto with prawns, salmon, hummus, olives, salami and pastrami for an entrée, followed by a superb meal with salmon, glazed and baked ham (carved by Bobby), roast turkey, chicken and lamb, a selection of gravies, salads, a superb selection of roast vegetables and a beautifully presented desert selection consisting of pavlova, chocolate caramel tart, along with chocolate-cinnamon cheese cake. Many of us dressed especially for the occasion and Rodney looked splendid with his South Georgia tie while Bernd had a fine bow tie and penguin badge. Many of the ladies including Marieke, Elizabeth and Pearl wore dresses for the first time on the voyage. When chef Lindsay appeared, both dining rooms gave a cheer. Numerous photographs were taken and birding enthusiast Alec managed to secure a photo of each person holding Con in various poses with bottles or food. Katya called us together for our last bird and mammal sighting discussion. Of great interest was the news that Katya on the day we sighted the first iceberg may have photographed a Blue Whale. Further confirmation will be sought on this matter. Altogether we made sightings of 74 bird species and 15 mammals.

 

Our final meeting in the lecture room began with the screening of Katya’s photographic power-point presentation and was followed by Gary’s movie; they had worked very hard to ensure we were able to have the ‘premiere viewing’ tonight. Rodney then spoke and the expedition staff also contributed, expressing thanks to all of the passengers along with sadness that the expedition was drawing to a close. Katya arranged for us to receive a copy of the two presentations later in the bar and this provided an opportunity to also exchange photographs and have a final drink together. A late night for some of us was a fitting finale to proceedings.

 

Day 29. Wednesday 6 February – WAITANGI DAY. Bluff

 

Noon position: Latitude 46^o35.51’S Longitude 168^o20.09’E

 

The Pilot arrived on schedule at 5.30am and all too soon we were tied up at Bluff, on a cloudy and still morning. At 6.15am Marieke played a special birthday song for Dan, recorded by a mixed ‘choir’ in the office last evening. Dan who was by this time getting ready for breakfast was surprised and highly amused by the lyrics. With the final breakfast over, we completed packing, cleared New Zealand Customs and Quarantine and said our final farewells as we prepared to disembark. Bobby who was also leaving the ship today has been hard at work in the kitchen, preparing a wonderful selection of cookies. At 8.25am, following a group photograph on the wharf, the group bid a sad farewell to the staff and boarded the coach for Invercargill. And so our expedition which travelled 2240 nautical miles had ended.

 

David our history lecturer and compiler of this Log, very much appreciated the assistance given by all passengers on the Spirit of Enderby. They are welcome to visit him in Oamaru and be shown Antarctic related historic sites linked to Captain R.F. Scott, the North Otago Museum and the Forrester Art Gallery.