HA240321A: Grand Pacific Odyssey: A Tropical Pacific Island Cruise from New Zealand to Papua New Guinea

GRAND PACIFIC ODYSSEY

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

21 March - 18 April 2024

Day 1
Thursday, March 21, 2024
Auckland

Our Grand Pacific Odyssey voyage started in Auckland where we, intrepid travellers from around the globe, gathered in preparation for our adventure ahead. After exploring New Zealand’s largest and most bustling city, we got ready to board our new home away from home, Heritage Adventurer, in the afternoon. After safety briefings and lifeboat drills, we settled into our accommodations before exploring the Observation Lounge and viewing decks where we no doubt would be spending a lot of time ahead.

After briefings for the next few days of sailing to Great Barrier Island and beyond we enjoyed the first of many delicious dinners! Dinner was ablaze with conversation as everyone got to know each other, or caught up with old friends, and stories of previous voyages being re-told. The bar was empty with everyone getting a good night’s sleep and ready for the adventure to begin tomorrow.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 2
Friday, March 22, 2024
Great Barrier Island – Hauraki Gulf

Welcoming us into our first port of call was a spectacular sunrise that transformed the pre-dawn darkness into a palette of blushing oranges, pinks and purples, lighting up the peaks of Great Barrier Island.

An impressive conservation project was alive and well here, and Steve from Glenfern Sanctuary came on board to tell us of the origin of this project and its aim to restore the island to a predator free zone. We then boarded our first Zodiac for a calm, short cruise, into the island’s jetty at Port Fitzroy to see and explore it for ourselves. We were excited to see straight away, the North Island Brown Teal enjoying a swim in the pretty bay.

Surrounded by a predator proof fence, we learnt of the trapping programs and some of the struggles of maintaining it including predators continuing to swim around the fence. There were options of a self-guided walk through the 83-hectare sanctuary, a guided walk with a Heritage Expeditions Expedition Team member, or a minivan ride to Sunset Lookout, offering expansive views of the Hauraki Gulf.

At the base of our walk, an open field of green provided the perfect landscape for up-close views of Banded Rails and squawking Kākā that were feasting in the surrounding fruiting Guava trees. From here some of us chose the path of many steps, guiding us upwards through protected and regenerating bush. We looked (unsuccessfully) for New Zealand’s largest and rarest reptile, the Chevron Skink, and Stella, our resident expedition expert on plants, was excited to point out an Epiphytic Orchid and chat to us about the surrounding towering tree fern groves. We stopped to photograph an iridescent green blue Kererū/New Zealand Pigeon, noisy Fantails and a mother Brown Teal with a family of six ducklings. For the braver among us, a small swinging bridge near the top of the forest, led to the trunk of a huge Kauri tree and small platform – another viewing point down onto the dense forest below.

After an exciting morning of activity, observing and photographing, we returned to Heritage Adventurer for lunch, departing to sail past the Mokohinau Islands, looking for New Zealand Storm Petrels.

Late afternoon, Thijs from our Expedition Team gave a presentation on Great Barrier Island Conservation and this evening Captain Tomasz welcomed us all on board with champagne and canapes, a lovely way to meet and get to know each other further, followed by a superb welcome dinner.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 3
Saturday, March 23, 2024
Waitangi, Urupukapuka Island, Russell – Bay of Islands

We woke to a showery morning that produced a kaleidoscope of colours in a spectacular overarching rainbow. Boarding Zodiacs, we took the short ride to shore to begin our Waitangi tour. Historically, this is one of the most important places in New Zealand – being the site of where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed. We heard about the history and current views on the treaty, together with the rich cultural history of Aotearoa, weaving together the stories of the people, events and places. Home to the world’s largest ceremonial waka (war canoe), we were free to wander and explore. We were also invited to be guests at a cultural performance that included waiata (songs), poi dancing and tī rākau, a stick game where wooden rods are thrown to each other in time to a song. We were told this is used to train their muscles and co-ordination for fighting.

Following our visit to Waitangi we had the option of returning to the comforts of Heritage Adventurer or being dropped into the quaint little seaside township of Russell, also known by the Māori name of Kororāreka. Here we wandered the foreshore of bustling cafes and restaurants, several enjoyed a beer beside the water, and everyone admired the towns historic buildings which hold an important place in the country’s history, having been the country’s first seaport. Interestingly, the town’s streets retain their original layout and names from 1843.

Back on board, Matt gave us a lecture on the rediscovery of the New Zealand Storm Petrel, and everyone readied themselves for another get-together in the lounge for a regular recap of our daily activities and briefing for the following day. Dinner as always was a fun way to end our day.

Image © F. Lambert, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © M.Jones, Heritage Expeditions

Day 4
Sunday, March 24, 2024
Bay of Islands on route to Norfolk Island

It was a glorious sea day as we sailed for Norfolk Island. Great food, great company, great birds and great comfort. The sea was calm and became calmer through the day. It started with two breakfasts, one for birders who were early risers and one for those wanting a sleep in. We enjoyed lunch and a very informative photography class with on board photographer Cathy Finch.

Still inside New Zealand waters, excitement grew as we came to the boundary of New Zealand and Australia. 12 minutes later we observed a Black Noddy, our first Australian bird! We enjoyed talks by Niall and Phil on Introduction to Seabird Identification to prepare us for the rest of the voyage.

During the day's recap, we learned why some birds have gone extinct on Norfolk Island, followed by the endemic birds to look out for tomorrow. The clocks went back, but everyone was early to bed for a well-earned rest and sleep in.

Day 5
Monday, March 25, 2024
Norfolk Island

As we awoke, Bottlenose Dolphins escorted us into Cascade Bay, along the north-eastern coast of Norfolk Island. We were hugely excited to sail beside the islands sheer cliffs covered in stands of Norfolk Pine and skies filled with soaring birds. As Norfolk Island is an external Australian territory, we welcomed custom officials on board to clear us for disembarkation.

We boarded the Zodiacs in testing conditions. This took a little longer to get everyone ashore, waiting patiently for the rise of fall of the swells to step safely onto our ride.

Our guide for the morning was Rachel from Island Explorer Tours, a seventh generation Norfolk Islander who carries the DNA and stories of the Bounty Mutineers and Tahitian royalty lines who started a new life on Pitcairn Islands. We boarded her minibus and started our journey through the heart of this destination at Mount Pitt Lookout. Here we had 360 degrees views of the entire island and vistas to the outer islands of Phillip and Nepean. We made a small stop at the Botanical Gardens as it continued to drizzle rain, clearing for spectacular views at Anson Bay and the Captain Cook Lookout, marking where Captain Cook and his officers landed in 1774. Below us flocks of White-capped Noddies were gliding above the glistening cobalt sea, dotted with White Terns and diving Booby birds.

We also stopped at the 19th-century church, St Barnabas Chapel, to admire its stained-glass windows and mother-of-pearl inlays. Many roamed the church grounds, popping one of the fragrant, falling Frangipani flowers into their hair, breathing in the smell of nature, history and holidays. From here we drove through the historic UNESCO World Heritage site of Kingston, a place with page-turning brutal history, attracting many ghostly and gory stories. Many cited this a wonderful place to one day return - to further indulge in the island’s multi-layered history.

The sun came out for morning tea, which was enjoyed on the grassy bank of Emily Bay. This was a gorgeous place for a quick swim, explore the sandy shoreline, or take photographs of nesting White Terns in the surrounding Norfolk Pines, and time to enjoy some delicious coconut bread and guava supplied by Rachel. Our time here quickly came to an end, and we returned to Heritage Adventurer for a late lunch. This afternoon Frank entertained us with a lecture on the Allure of Birds & Birding before enjoying another delicious dinner and drinks.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © M. Jones, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 6
Tuesday, March 26, 2024
Sailing north from Norfolk Island

It was a leisurely and relaxing day at sea as we enjoyed sunny and calm conditions. Out on the decks and in the Observation Lounge, we were treated to an array of wildlife spectacles as Red-footed Boobies circled Heritage Adventurer, a range of other seabirds were observed, and the incredible highlight of 5 Sperm Whales who put on a fabulous show with their unique blows. As always, the food was delicious, and we had excellent presentations on the etiquette of rainforest birding and why New Zealand is not part of France.

Hearing the well laid out plans for tomorrow's adventure in New Caledonia had us all excited for the next day in Nouméa.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 7
Wednesday, March 27, 2024
Nouméa

The day began early as the sky transitioned from a deep navy to a lighter shade of morning blue. At 0630, we were joined by our pilot, a seasoned navigator whose expertise promised a safe entry into the bustling Nouméa harbour. The air was fresh with a hint of salt as we glided smoothly through the water, ready to embrace the adventures that awaited on shore. By the time we docked, the sun had fully risen, casting a golden glow over the port. The official procedures were a flurry of activity, with port authorities bustling about, ensuring everything was in order before our adventure could begin.

Our first stop was the vibrant Nouméa Market. The structure, a perfect hexagon, buzzed with the energy of locals and tourists alike. In the centre, a quaint coffee spot offered a respite with its aromatic brews. The stalls around were a kaleidoscope of colour and activity—fresh fish glistened on ice, tropical fruits stacked in neat pyramids, and artisans displayed their crafts: woven bags, intricate necklaces, and aromatic spices. The scent of the ocean mixed with that of fresh produce and the earthy tones of handicrafts, creating an intoxicating atmosphere.

From the market, our bus climbed the winding roads to Ouen Toro. Despite the morning clouds, the view from the top was breathtaking, overlooking Nouméa and the serene Baie des Citrons. The historic canons, remnants of a bygone era, stood silently watch over the city.

Our next visit was to the majestic Cathédrale St Joseph de Nouméa, where our guide—a fountain of knowledge, courtesy of his deep local roots—shared tales of its construction by convicts, adding a layer of historical gravitas to the stunning architecture. A brief stop at the local museum on Coconut Square provided deeper insights into Nouméa’s mining heritage and early life. The square itself was a hive of daily activity, offering us a glimpse into the laid-back lifestyle of the locals.

After a refreshing lunch on board Heritage Adventurer, we returned to Baie des Citrons. The beach was a slice of paradise with its crystal-clear waters and gentle waves, ideal for a relaxing swim. The local crowd was a mix of readers, swimmers, and sunbathers, all enjoying the tranquillity of the bay. Nearby, a vendor sold exquisite ice cream and macarons, which paired delightfully with the robust local coffee.

As the day wound down, we visited the historic Site Historique de l'Ile Nou. Here, a dedicated site guide provided an engaging tour, offering interpretations that brought to life the penal history etched into the location. The museum was well-appointed, with compelling visuals and preserved old buildings that speak volumes of the site's storied past.

Back on board the comforts of Heritage Adventurer for dinner, the conversations were abuzz with the day’s experiences. Each moment, from the bustling market to the quiet beaches and the echoes of history, left an indelible mark on our hearts. As the sun set, casting a warm glow over us, and we looked forward to what tomorrow will bring in this enchanting land.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 8
Thursday, March 28, 2024
Nouméa

After a hearty and delicious breakfast filled with anticipation and the buzz of conversation, the announcement from our cruise manager directed us towards the day’s adventure. Our friendly driver and her husband, who had introduced us to Nouméa the previous day, were already waiting to take us to our first destination: the Tjibaou Cultural Centre.

The sun hung bright and warm in the sky, a pleasant contrast to the slightly cooler morning air as we disembarked from the bus. A short walk brought us to the main entrance of the centre, where we were greeted by George, our guide for the morning. George, a Kanak and native to New Caledonia, brought with him not just a wealth of knowledge but also an infectious enthusiasm for his culture. His passion was palpable, and his eloquence and insight promised an enriching experience.

The Tjibaou Cultural Centre itself is a marvel of design, its architecture blending modern aesthetics with traditional Kanak motifs. The building’s iconic cases, or pavilions, are designed like sails, pointing skywards as if to catch the breeze. This design not only captivated visually but also symbolises the blend of tradition and progress, reflecting the spirit of the Kanak people.

Our tour began in the main building, segmented into thematic exhibition rooms. Each room, from Case Bwenaado to Salle Bérétara, presented a facet of Pacific and Kanak culture through beautifully curated displays. Case Bwenaado, serving as a customary assembly place, featured artifacts that connected various Pacific ethnic groups, showing the reverence for oral traditions and rituals. A noteworthy exhibit included Kanak items on loan from Musée du quai Branly, offering us a glimpse into the rich heritage of the Kanak people.

Case Jinu explored the cosmology of Oceania, while Case Mâlep was dedicated to Jean-Marie Tjibaou, a leader whose vision was fundamental in establishing this very cultural centre. Each exhibit not only educated but also inspired, weaving a complex narrative of the Kanak's past, present, and aspirations for the future.

Leaving the confines of the exhibition spaces, George led us on a path through lush greenery, the 'Path of the Kanaks', where he shared stories that spanned centuries. This outdoor segment felt like a journey through time, with each stop enriched by George’s narratives. The traditional Kanak buildings along the path demonstrated their deep connection to the environment, showcasing architectural ingenuity that harmonises with nature.

The two hours of our tour flew by, with George’s storytelling making it seem like just the beginning of our cultural immersion. Reluctantly, we bid him goodbye, carrying with us a deeper appreciation of New Caledonia's indigenous heritage.

The afternoon was ours to explore Nouméa independently. Choosing how we wanted to spend our afternoon, we indulged in local flavours, sampling exquisite pastries and visiting the maritime museum, which offered another perspective of the island’s relationship with the sea. As the sun began to set, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink, we reflected on the day’s journey — a profound connection to a place so rich in culture and history, shared generously by those who cherish it.Image © H. Dohn, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © H. Dohn, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © H. Dohn, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © H. Dohn, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © H. Dohn, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © H. Dohn, Heritage Expeditions

Day 9
Friday, March 29, 2024
At Sea - New Caledonia to Solomon Island’s

After departing New Caledonia, we sailed towards the Soloman Islands. It was a leisurely day at sea looking for seabirds, relaxing or getting to know our fellow adventurers better. Enjoying the tropical weather, we were out on the decks alongside the birders with our helpful Expedition Guides helping us identify what we saw.

As we were sailing, we observed large flocks of flying-fish – silver ones to start with that turned into deep blue varieties. The Boobies were flying alongside us and dive-bombing the flying fish, missing 99% of the time, but occasionally catching an unfortunate fish. This went on for hours and was very entertaining especially trying to get the perfect shot of fish catching, which some managed to do.

After a quick recap and bird list it was into bed early as we needed a good night’s sleep for the upcoming adventure in the Solomon Islands.Image © L. Terrill, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © J. Van Logten, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © S. McInnis, Heritage Expeditions

Day 10
Saturday, March 30, 2024
At Sea to Solomon Island’s

It was an exciting sea day as we crossed from New Caledonia to Solomon Island’s waters. There was lots of excitement as we came across new birds and were greeted by a pair of Rough-toothed Dolphins spotted playing in our wake nearby.

To top off our day at sea we enjoyed cocktails on the starboard stern. Afterwards we had great observations of a distant White Tern, Juvenile Masked Booby as well as a blow of a distant whale. Frank Rheindt gave a great and interesting talk on plumage divergence of Monarchs on Santa Ana.

Finally, it was an early night to prepare for our adventure in the Solomon Islands tomorrow.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 11
Sunday, March 31, 2024
Santa Ana

Beneath woolly white cumulus clouds, we sailed into our first stop in the Solomon Islands, anchoring off the small coral island of Santa Ana. We awoke to the sights and smells of a different land. Arriving next to Heritage Adventurer, locals in wooden dugout canoes paddled out to greet us, bearing bunches of bananas, fish and huge smiles.

Everyone was excited for our first snorkel, and the underwater world of Santa Ana didn’t disappoint. Through our masks we viewed a variety of colours and corals as we swam over the reef. An impressive mix of fish species darted in and out of the corals, blue Linckia Starfish and strange sea cucumbers dotted the sea floor filled with boldly-coloured Moorish Idols, and games of finding Nemo ensued. The seas were calm, and we all snorkelled from the Zodiacs with our Expedition Team lowering a ladder into the water for our exit from the ocean.

We worked up a great appetite for lunch back on board Heritage Adventurer, and then hopped on Zodiacs to visit the local village of Gupuna for an afternoon that left our hearts full and overflowing.

Our initial cultural entry to the island was slightly terrifying, as spear-wielding men ran onto the beach towards our Zodiacs – warriors dressed in pandanus skirts, plastered with clay and brandishing huge smiles. We continued ashore to be entertained by various traditional ceremonial dances telling stories of their history. Elaborate costumes and adornments swayed and shuffled to the music produced by various musical instruments, the main component being ‘tube’ drums – a creative invention made from various length of poly pipe tied together and drummed upon with rubber thongs. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed our welcome and took refuge from the tropical humidity in a hibiscus lined hut assembled with wooden benches. We also accepted the kindness of locals who were lopping off the top of fresh coconuts for us to enjoy the delicious juice within. It was also lovely to witness the joy on faces when Chris donated school supplies to the village on behalf of Heritage Expeditions.

After performances from local dancers and musicians, we were befriended by the local children who led us to the beach to swim and collect shells (that we left on the beach of course). Local artists also displayed their carvings and many of us purchased souvenirs to take home to enjoy as memories, long after the songs and salt has dissipated.

Following the afternoon heat, deep blue storm clouds boiled on the horizon, threatening to dampen our goodbyes. We managed to get the last of everyone back on board just as the heavens opened and claps of thunder echoed across the bay, and we set sail to our next destination.

Day 12
Monday, April 1, 2024
Makira/Anuta

We awoke to another flotilla of dugout canoes around Heritage Adventurer this morning, welcoming us to the island of Anuta in the Makira-Ulawa Province of Solomon Islands. The skies were cloudy and early morning rain lightly drizzled upon us as we made our way into Zodiacs soon after breakfast, for a tour around the island. We were lucky enough to have knowledgeable English-speaking locals accompany us, proud to show us their home and the important habitat surrounding them. We witnessed the islands logging operation and passed by a huge ship being loaded in readiness for departure. We then turned from the ocean into the river mouth that wound its way into a twisted maze of mangroves. The overhanging canopy formed a natural cathedral above us, and meadows of sea grasses swayed below.

With ocean chop and currents picking up as the morning progressed, the visibility for our snorkel was poor but we found a protected area and enjoyed the warm 29-degree temperature of the ocean. It drizzled with rain, but we were all still content to swim and snorkel and enjoy the sea.

After lunch back onboard Heritage Adventurer, we made our way ashore to the village, met once again with a very heartwarming cultural island welcome. Our Zodiacs were stormed by clay-covered warriors that ran towards us and then vanished once again back into the bushes. Once ashore, the welcome began with a line of the island's young ladies adorned in grass skirts and headdresses of colourful flowers. They produced garlands of leaves and flowers which they placed around our necks and sat us down to be entertained by dancing, singing, chanting and drums. Heritage Expeditions once again donated an orange bucket filled with school supplies and after the ceremony we perused and purchased some of the local artworks made by the islanders as a source of income. Stella led those who were interested through the village, enthralled by the many different species of plants to be found here. The village children delighted in playing with us on the beach and in the water. Of particular interest to them is our hair. All too soon it was time to leave, and the children delighted in pushing our Zodiacs, loaded with guests, off the sand, and waving goodbyes.

Over a delicious dinner in the dining room, many stories and photographs of the day were shared.

Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 13
Tuesday, April 2, 2024
Honiara

Our first views of the capital of the Solomon Islands, Honiara, was drenched in the oranges, reds and golds of a spectacular sunrise. This picture-perfect morning was only a hint of what was to come. After a scrumptious breakfast we set out to explore the history and culture of this city, arriving to it in style via our Zodiacs. With our feet firmly on dry land our adventure could begin.

As we boarded the refreshingly air-conditioned bus, we began to hear about the culture of this city and had a very appropriate first stop at the Honiara Markets. It was a sea of sights, smells and experiences. From wandering the aisles of hand-crafted jewellery to admiring the neatly wrapped fruit and vegetables, there was something for everyone. Upon returning to the bus, bunches of sweet bananas and fresh peanuts were handed around for all to enjoy.

Our next stop was the American War Memorial, a sombre place which cast a reflective mood over all of us. Our excellent local guide, Chris, explained the history of the monument and included the part he played in finding the identity of a buried solider nearby. From our position atop the hill, we could see even more history across the harbour, the nearby islands having been bases for various groups throughout WWII. Eventually we carried on to the Japanese Peace Memorial, an austere place with the only colour being splashes of red and white hibiscus. But these were only two sides of this story and our final memorial filled in the gaps. A monument dedicated to the Solomon Scouts and Coastwatcher’s situated near the waterfront and detailed the names of the known Solomon Islanders that served and died during WWII. These men changed the outcome of the Battle of Guadalcanal, through immense bravery and by providing local intelligence. All these thought-provoking memorials only touched the surface of the rich and bloodied history of these islands.

Our final stop in Honiara was a small but excellent museum. Inside we were guided through exhibits detailing traditional burial practices to Solomon Island feather money. A nearby gallery elucidated the more recent history with a focus on RAMSI, the Regional Assistance Mission to the Solomon Islands. It was time to return to Heritage Adventurer and sail up the coast towards our next destinations. The warm weather had lured many of us outside and we were greeted by a pod of False Killer Whales, this farewell entourage was joined by several Sperm Whales blowing and tail slapping.

Sailing onwards, our evening recap dived into the False Killer Whales and briefings for tomorrow. A sumptuous dinner was next, and excitement followed us all to bed, looking forward to what the next day would bring.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 14
Wednesday, April 3, 2024
Tetepare Island

After an early breakfast we departed for the tropical forest of one of the conservation jewels of the South Pacific, Tetepare Island, to enjoy the calls of the birdlife and wander the dense canopies of vegetation of this largely uninhabited island. After a short Zodiac cruise, we arrived onto a jetty near the Tetepare Eco Lodge operating on the island. We were welcomed by local ladies doing a traditional water dance that consisted of lots of joyous splashing and singing. Along the forest walk, our local guides chatted with us about many of the trees and plants that are used by the Solomon Islanders in traditional medicine. It was warm and humid in the forest, but we continued to climb higher to an impressive Strangler Fig tree, then returned to the lodge's main hub where the ladies had prepared a Motu demonstration. A Motu is their method of traditional cooking in the ground on hot rocks and the Taro root vegetable was delicious.

Perched on colourful sarongs, local artists displayed many carvings for sale – masks, warrior heads, ocean animals such as flying fish, Manta Rays, Dugongs and turtles. Many supported them and made use of our cruise manager, Heidi’s, Solomon Island onshore ‘bank’ (we called her the Bank of Heidi).

Everyone returned to Heritage Adventurer for lunch, eager to Zodiac straight back for the afternoon's traditional welcome.

Once again, we were entertained by warriors and dancers covered in mud, wielding spears and axes. After the festivities were over, we were introduced to another of the island’s conservation projects – the preservation of the Coconut Crab – the largest land-living arthropod in the world. These crabs used to be common in the South Pacific islands but due to their tasty meat, they have become close to extinction in many places. While we weren’t allowed to handle them (they have large muscular claws that are stronger than a lion’s jaw, so best leave them just to open coconuts), we were able to get close enough for some great photographs.

Sea grass monitoring is also being done here at Tetepare. There once was a healthy population of Dugongs around the island because of the healthy seagrass beds, but following a tsunami a few years ago, the Dugongs had to find new feeding grounds. The locals were happy to tell us that some are now finally returning as the sea grass regenerates. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot one, but we did observe a Green Turtle – another of the conservation projects being taken out on the island. Tagging and turtle monitoring is routinely done on Green and Hawksbill Turtles which feed in the waters close to Tetepare. We watched as our guides weighed, measured, and tagged a Green Turtle, then recorded data and released her back into the ocean. The data collected will help researchers learn about the movements, numbers and habits of these turtles, and in turn then how to help protect them.

Our location for our afternoon snorkelling adventure continually changed due to weather and currents, so we settled on a spot on the north side of the island which was more protected. There was an impressive coral wall here that was previously a wall of thick Staghorn Coral, but because of a more recent tsunami, this had sustained substantial damage. Thankfully Staghorn Coral is a fast-growing species and most of the remaining Boulder Brain Coral and new growth was still providing the necessary underwater gardens for many species of fish. Interestingly, it appeared to be a nursery for many schools of fish which was great to see. Snorkelling in the Coral Triangle which sustains such a rich diversity of species was a real treat and there was so much for us all to learn. The coral and fish identification books in the on board library were well utilised later this evening.

We had time for one last snorkel near Heritage Adventurer on a reef near the channel to enter the island. There was a current flowing over the top of the reef, so we remained together and snorkelled along the side where there were lots of things to point out and enjoy. Reefs are often referred to as the ‘rainforests of the sea’ and this one didn’t disappoint. Starfish, Lionfish, Sea Cucumbers, Christmas Tree Worms, Puffer Fish, Boxfish and mating Triggerfish – corals covered in damsels and lots of fishes to identify.

It had been a beautiful day on Tetepare Island, and it was time to board Heritage Adventurer and set sail. With avid birders on board, there was excitement on the top deck as this was an opportunity as the sun set and darkness creeped over, to spot the Solomons Nightjar – a large-eyed and immaculately camouflaged nocturnal bird only found here. While eyes were seen onshore in a tree, and also on the shore, discussion over the colour of the reflections and lots of other factors ensued. What we saw is still being hotly contested. Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 15
Thursday, April 4, 2024
Kolombangara

After a smooth night of sailing, calm seas welcomed us to the waters surrounding Kolombangara Island, a towering extinct volcano. While enjoying breakfast we gazed out the windows at the thickly forested slopes and peaks wreathed in mist. Today was about exploring the wonders of this tropical forest. After a short Zodiac cruise in the early morning sun, we arrived on the island to greet our transport, two open air trucks. While lacking cushioned seats, our position enabled us unobstructed views of the dense tropical jungle.

We bounced higher and higher up the dirt roads before arriving at Imbu Rano Mountain Lodge. After a quick stretch, we admired the views from the comfort of the lodge deck. A few options were presented to us, a longer walk to the viewpoint or a short walk around the lodge. The longer walkers set out on a winding, root-covered track up the mountains. Led by our fearless, machete wielding local guide, we trekked up various hills and felt satisfied staring at our hard-earned view. Along the way, botanist Stella pointed out several beautiful plants, one of the highlights was the UV+ liverwort, Bazzania vittata. The short walkers enjoyed a less demanding track but no less diverse, hearing bird calls and experiencing a forest bursting with life. Then it was time to return in the trucks to the waterfront, where local carvers had set up shop to display their range of colourful local goods.

Back on board the comforts of Heritage Adventurer for lunch, we relocated to our next location. Our break was only brief as it was time to explore the next sites on Kolombangara. Another excursion in the Zodiacs led us to Hunda Village, a peaceful settlement located on an inlet’s sleepy banks. We chatted with locals, wandered the ornamental gardens, and enjoyed the tranquillity. Thijs and Captain Tomasz arrived with an orange bucket full of school supplies to donate, and hearing the plight of the local school left a deep impression on us all.

Our first attempt to reach Leleana Resort was unsuccessful as the conditions were too choppy to land at the seaward dock, so we doubled back and entered via mangrove fringed lagoons. This time we were successful and were greeted by the enthusiastic owners. After we were all given an orchid to decorate ourselves, we could begin our exploration. The rain didn’t put us or the butterflies off. We walked the volcanic paths with fields of white and purple Spathoglottis orchids surrounded us. Butterflies of all colours and sizes fluttered around us, attracted to the butterfly sticks that were spaced along the track.

After stretching our legs, it was time to relax in the tropical waters off the dock. The snorkelling was fantastic with Anemones, fan worms, Clownfish, Lionfish and even a Cuttlefish being sighted. Then the Heritage Adventurer bar arrived onshore and restorative cocktails were in order!

As dusk began it was time to catch a ride back to home. Bouncing across the waves, we had ample time to admire the evening light on the tropical cumulus clouds and reminisce about our adventure packed day. Back on board we were treated to a delicious dinner while we sailed away from the Solomon Islands, the site of five days of culture, marine life, and plants.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Days 16, 17, 18 & 19
Friday April 5 – Monday April 8
At Sea

After an action-packed adventure in the Soloman Islands, we had a chance to relax and enjoy the comforts of Heritage Adventurer on route to Micronesia. Perched on the decks or in the Observation Lounge, there was a flurry of bird activity with great sightings of White-tailed Tropicbirds, Long-tailed Skua, Sooty Terns Beck’s Petrels and many more. Not to be outdone by the birds, we were treated to sightings of a Pygmy Sperm Whale, a whale which was later identified by Ian as an Omura’s Whale and what appeared to be a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins.

There were a range of interesting lectures and documentaries to enjoy on board, and a photography masterclass by on board photographer Cathy Finch.

A highlight of our journey was crossing the equator! Our very own Neptune, armed with a trident and disguised, but rather easily identified by his unmistakable Lancashire accent, oversaw the traditional celebration for first timers (Pollywogs) who cross zero degrees of latitude by sea to become full-fledged Shellbacks. By his side, an extremely well-disguised bird guide, wearing a dress that allegedly belonged to our intrepid Cruise Manager, played the part of a (tail-less) mermaid.

After drinking punch or champagne, those who'd never crossed the Equator by boat were ushered by Neptune towards the Heritage Adventurer swimming pool. The swell caused the swimming pool to create its own waves, with those in the pool clearly having great fun.

As we continued to approach Micronesia, the excitement on board grew and we were ready to begin our adventure in Chuuk Lagoon.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © J. Van Logten, Heritage Expeditions

Day 20
Tuesday, April 9, 2024
Chuuk Lagoon

The skies were blue this morning as we sailed into the idyllic paradise of Chuuk Lagoon, Micronesia. We boarded customs officials for clearance and managed a quick peek outside before an early lunch and afternoon excursion on Weno Island. Boarding minibuses alongside a local guide we travelled to the base of a historic lighthouse built by the Japanese in 1940 and in use until being attacked by U.S. forces in WWII. The lighthouse was abandoned and never rebuilt and now makes a beautiful lookout to the island below. Overgrown by tropical vegetation, it also provided a lovely spot to view some of the island’s birds. On the trek upwards through lush forest and past local houses, many Red-tailed Tropicbirds flew low above us, and crash landed into the foliage. Next was another history stop, a remnant Japanese gun from this heavily fortified base for Japanese operations during WWII.

As we travelled around the island it was sad to see it used as a dumping ground for old cars and the plastic pollution of the island is off the scale, however the island’s history still runs deep. We were met with more vibrant sights as brightly coloured fabrics and dresses blew in the breeze along the main street where tuna and lobsters are sold beside homewares and clothing.

At the end of the afternoon, we relaxed at Blue Lagoon Resort, perched on the edge of the ocean, surrounded by Coconut Palms overarching the sea. Many of us took the opportunity to go for another snorkel, enjoying watching life under the sea play out in the mirror of our masks.

To end a fantastic day of exploration, we went ashore to enjoy a beautiful Micronesian sunset. The sky grew more and more intense, changing from golden yellows and oranges to deep purple, as the silhouettes of Coconut Palms painted a pretty palette across the sky, dotted with fruit bats, venturing out for dinner.

We returned to Heritage Adventurer at 1845 for dinner, satisfied after a fantastic day exploring Chuuk Lagoon.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 21
Wednesday, April 10, 2024
Chuuk Lagoon/Dublon Island

It was a morning of adventure, leaving at 0745 heading to the next island of Chuuk Lagoon, Dublon. The Zodiac cruise took more than an hour, and we had a lot of fun being splashed as the weather was still humid. We hopped into the back of local trucks and left for a tour of the tracks around the island.

At the local Japanese school, we played with the children, counting in English with them and collecting smiles and laughs. Another school was an old communication building, and an interesting piece of history was the old Japanese war hospital. Now covered in tropical vines and graffiti, it was eerie to spend time here walking through the old rooms. Our last port of call was the oldest Protestant church on the island, resting on the edge of a cliff, gazing out to sea.

Back at our landing site, locals prepared refreshing and tasty coconuts for us to drink before we said our goodbyes. The Zodiac cruise home was much easier with the swell behind us, and we departed from Chuuk Lagoon at 1400.

Throughout the afternoon we enjoyed a presentation by Stella on How to Tell a New Species. The library on Deck 7 proved a popular place to enjoy life at sea in the air conditioning, with those looking for birds sheltering under umbrellas on the very top deck above us.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © M. Jones, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Days 22, 23, 24, 25
Thurs Apr 11 – Sun Apr 14, 2024
At sea

After exploring the tropical paradise of Chuuk Lagoon, we departed the federated states of Micronesia towards our next destination, Japan. Here we would visit the series of islands located south of the mainland before arriving at Osaka. The sea days offered us a chance to relax, catch up on photography, attend fascinating lectures and of course, enjoy the delicious food on offer. There were great birding opportunities as we situated ourselves in the Observation Lounge or on the decks, and our expert Expedition Guides helped explain everything that we saw. Along the way we had great observations of Short-tailed Shearwater, Sooty and White Tern, Pomarine and South Polar Skua, Noddies, Boobies a range of Petrel species and many more.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 26
Monday, April 15, 2024
Chichi-jima, Japan

There was an excited feeling in the air as we approached the island of Chichijima, Japan. The birders were up early to try and tick off some new species, while we enjoyed a sleep-in and a delicious breakfast.

The cetaceans put on a real show with several pods of Short-finned Pilot Whales and lots of blowing, tail slapping and breaching Humpback Whales. We entered the harbour and parked at the wharf superbly by our Captain in trying conditions. We cleared customs and headed into Chichijima to explore the island at our own pace. Those opting to for a walk through the forest were rewarded with fabulous bird encounters, including the Japanese Bush-Warbler, Japanese Buzzard and the rare Eurasian Sparrowhawk. Others explored the quaint island streets, visiting the local aquarium and doing a bit of shopping. After soaking in the scenic and historical sites, we returned to Heritage Adventurer for a delicious lunch. During an afternoon of lectures, birdwatching or relaxing, we sailed towards our next destination in Torishima.

Image © J. Van Logten, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © P. Hansbro, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 27
Tuesday, April 16, 2024
Torishima

It was a truly spectacular day today at Torishima Island. After some early morning bird watching, or relaxing on board, we had an early lunch and then approached closely, searching for the rare Short-tailed Albatross. As we approached, we could see the white dots of the adults in small colonies, and a pod of Pantropical Spotted Dolphins came right to the front of Heritage Adventurer.

The island itself is volcanic and we could see the layers upon layers of deposited lava. We did a slow circumnavigation of the island and saw some remaining buildings from the slaughter days. We had a great commentary about the species history from Thijs. As soon as we got close, we had some cracking juvenile Short-tailed Albatross investigate and circle us, before some truly superb adults with their stunning golden heads and big white wing patches followed suit. We saw hundreds of these birds flying by themselves and gathering into flocks sat on the ocean in breeding colonies with their chicks. Some came very close allowing superb photographic opportunities. This albatross takes 10 years to reach full maturity and we saw every plumage variation from all brown with their huge pink bills to full adults.

Flocks were mixed with Black-footed Albatross giving excellent comparisons with Black-foots looking much smaller. It was awesome to see many of these birds that were once thought to be culled to extinction (>350 tonnes of breast feathers were collected from clubbed albatrosses at 100-200 per day) but happily they are now recovering to a healthier population, the vast majority nesting on this one island. An added bonus was a breaching mother and calf Humpback Whales that are no longer hunted by the Japanese, although other species still are. In the distance were a range of other birds including the Japanese Buzzard circling over the island, Japanese Cormorants, Egrets and Wedge-tailed Shearwaters with a Streaked Shearwater in with them.

Sadly, it came to the time to say farewell to this amazing spectacle and leave our new-found friends behind. A truly amazing experience and one that none of us will ever forget and will fondly remember forever. We sailed away late afternoon seeing a few more albatrosses along the way.

Day 28
Wednesday, April 17, 2024
Miyake Jima

As the last stars faded from the predawn sky, our Expedition Leader, briefed by the local agent from Miyake Jima, outlined our day with a note of cautious optimism. The weather, always a capricious companion on such voyages, promised challenges, but also an exhilarating prospect: three potential landing sites were on our itinerary, each with its own promise of adventure.

The morning broke with an air of excitement. As we cruised toward our first destination, the ocean bestowed a breathtaking spectacle — Humpback Whales, their majestic forms breaching the water's surface in a dance of ancient rhythms. Blows of mist marked their presence, a sight that brought everyone on deck, cameras in hand, hearts pounding in unison with each leap and splash. Despite the whales' enchanting display, our first landing option proved untenable. Our Captain, with a practiced eye, assessed the conditions with a mariner's seasoned judgment. Alongside our Expedition Leader, they weighed our alternatives and chose to explore the second site, where conditions looked more promising. Indeed, the second site was a go. The Zodiac ride to shore was exhilarating — a symphony of wind, wave, and spray — masterfully navigated by our Expedition Team. As we entered the calm harbour, a serendipitous sight greeted us: a turtle and a Blue Rock-Thrush, each a symbol of the enduring natural beauty that awaited us on shore.

The welcome was heartwarming. Local residents, along with police and other dignitaries, gathered to greet us, their faces alight with the joy of shared discovery. We boarded the buses, dropping off the Western Pacific Odyssey group for their activities before continuing to our main adventure: the Ako Lava Walk.

Here, we faced a choice between a 20-minute and a 30-minute walk through the remnants of a village once vibrant but now silenced by the relentless march of lava. Walking through this transformed landscape was surreal—houses and schools buried under the flow, their outlines ghostly underfoot. The sense of loss was palpable yet tempered by the knowledge that all had escaped unscathed.

Afterward, we journeyed to the coast, where the Miyake Jima Glass Rock and another site awaited. These formations, sculpted by the 1983 lava flow and polished by ceaseless ocean waves, stood as natural monuments to the Earth’s creative and destructive powers. Our final stop was the Toga Shrine. The approach was a peaceful walk through lush vegetation, leading to a tranquil site framed by cherry blossoms. It was a moment of quiet reflection, a serene pause before we returned to the bus, our minds filled with the day’s profound experiences.

On the bus ride back to Heritage Adventurer, the scenery outside seemed to echo our thoughts—vivid, beautiful, and etched with the journeys of those who traverse this path. With hearts full and spirits high, we bid farewell to the island. Sayonara, whispered on the wind, a promise of return to these remote shores where adventure and awe intertwine with every tide and turn of our Grand Pacific Odyssey adventure.

To finish an amazing expedition, we enjoyed the Captain’s Cocktails, and a fabulous slideshow put together by Cathy.Image © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage ExpeditionsImage © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions

Day 29
Thursday, April 18, 2024
Yokohama

After a fantastic expedition from New Zealand to Japan, our voyage had to come to an end as we arrived at Yokohoma. After our last delicious breakfast, enjoyed in the company of the new friends we made on board, we departed for the Yokohoma Travel Centre before heading to our next destinations. We all said our fond good-byes. It was amazing to renew old friendships, or start new ones, and we will be travelling companions forever.Image © C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions