1231: Across the Top of the World 25 Jul 2012

25 JULY - 8 AUGUST 2012

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Wednesday 25th July

Anadyr

A fresh breeze and mild conditions accompanied the first day of our expedition as participants arrived from all corners of the world.

Those arriving into Anadyr from Nome, Alaska, were on schedule and were met by expedition team member Katya with picnic lunches and a briefing on the afternoon activities. We were whisked off to the local ferry, where we had great views of Beluga Whales. These beautiful white adults and grey calves were enjoying inshore currents in the protective shallow waters. Spotted Seals, always curious of any surface action, popped their heads up to check us out.

Behind Anadyr's pastel coloured renovated and newer buildings lies the hidden and intriguing story of Chukotka. The story begins with ancient indigenous coastal people surviving various political agendas aimed at cultural suppression, socialism and mineral exploitation. Later come tales of revolution, the breakup of the U.S.S.R. and then the more recent benevolent influence of a Russian billionaire who became the local Governor. We had a brief chance to explore the city including a visit to the museum and the surprisingly fashion conscious street style of this relatively wealthy administrative capital.

Meanwhile the second wave of expeditioners had arrived from Moscow. So far all had gone to plan. As the day became afternoon, the wind picked up and strong tidal currents created messy sea conditions in Anadyr Bay. The local harbourmaster then suspended all water traffic, so passengers accompanied by Katya and Alex from the expedition team were denied the use of the ferry to board the Spirit of Enderby. Meanwhile, Expedition Leader Rodney and Captain Alexander liaised with the harbourmaster for several hours during the frustrating delay ashore.  Close to 10pm the party was allowed to transfer to the ship and a late dinner was served. After a glass of wine and a few warm showers, the setback was behind us and we looked ahead to our great adventure together.

Thursday 26th July

Anadyrskiy Bay and Cape Aachen

We were lured to the dining room by the smell of fresh coffee and a hot cooked breakfast at the leisurely hour of 8.30am to begin the new day as we sailed north-east from the Gulf of Anadyr towards Provedeniya. Our first full day on board gave us a chance to unpack, learn more about the ship and formally meet the staff who would be guiding us 'Across the Top of the World'. We gathered in the Lecture Theatre mid morning for an orientation talk where Rodney introduced himself and other members of the team including the creators of the delicious treats from the galley, chefs Noel and Monique. Doctor Stephen made good use of his introduction to stress safety and in particular the 'one hand for the ship at all times' philosophy. Cruise Director Marieke provided information on subjects varying from email accounts to on board shopping and meal times. The Lifeboat briefing was extensive and we all felt ready for anything.

After this intensive information intake it was time to top up energy reserves at lunch and then suitably weakened from good food, surrender landing fees and passports, which would streamline probable Border Guard meetings along the way. Rodney later prepared us for Zodiac travel and whetted our appetites for the range of exciting possibilities that lay ahead in his 'Overview of the Expedition'.

The ship's whistle cranked up the volume for the practical lifeboat drill, and adorned in orange foam we proceeded in an orderly fashion to the orange life boats. During the exercise we wondered about lifeboat bathroom etiquette and decided to let it remain a mystery!

As afternoon eased into evening, our first invitation to venture out in the Zodiacs arrived. A half moon hung above soft sunlit fog as we approached the cliffs of Cape Aachen to the arresting sights and sounds of thousands of nesting auks and gulls. The geology of fluted granites, rising in layers of columns and clefts, was quite beautiful in itself, but the myriad bird species stole the show. Murres, kittiwakes, guillemots and lovable Tufted Puffins were nesting precariously on ledges in endless rows where they could enjoy the bounty of the rich Russian coast. Each species has its own niche, higher or lower on the cliffs to nest, deeper or shallower divers for ocean prey, allowing each to co-exist and live well in safe lofty nesting sites, free from the nimble approach of Arctic Fox. Predatory gulls keep natures balance. We saw a gull steal a murres egg, drop it accidentally, then swoop down and catch it just before it met sea surface.

The auk family are unique in their ability to dive deeply like heavier southern penguins, yet remain light enough to fly well too. They are a treat to watch, with back legs splayed out in flight, looking awkward but endearing and giving pause to ponder that penguins once looked like this before specialising further. Flocks moved across the vista in unison, but from time to time solitary Pigeon Guillemots still stole our attention, their restful black and white plumage set off by astonishingly red feet.

It was a great first experience to sit quietly for a moment and take in the scene of thousands of birds commuting from nest to sea and return, silhouetted against the soft blue sky.

We shared experiences over a pre dinner drink back on board, followed by a delicious dinner. Most then retired early to catch up on much needed sleep and dream of more adventures to come.

Friday 27th July

Yttrgran Island

Brilliant sunshine at 2.30 am greeted early risers as we anchored in calm waters off Yttrgran Island.

After a healthy breakfast, Rodney began the day with what was to become our regular morning briefing on the activities planned for the day. This was followed by an overview of the cultural significance of our first landing by Katya, and Grigory's Grey Whale talk.

We were soon out in the Zodiacs for a quick trip to shore where we began exploring. Previous landings here offered sightings of Wolverine and brown bear, so while staff kept one eye on the surrounds, guests relaxed and enjoyed the freedom to explore this mysterious setting. Our first sight was of multiple rib bones of Bowhead Whales standing upright in the earth, creating a promenade of several hundred metres with tundra hills for a backdrop. We had arrived at 'Whalebone Alley', once a central shrine to many nearby island villages. It is thought that the bones may have been a processional route used by these shamanic sea-hunting peoples for rituals and ceremonies as early as the 14th Century. Only recently re-discovered in 1976, it is one of the most significant ceremonial sites in the Arctic.

Natural stones on the site have been arranged to create about 150 meat storage pits for harvested walrus and whale meat, and perhaps also used for ceremonial burnings. Around 60 Bowhead Whale skulls (two tonnes each in weight) also littered the grassy foreshore in symbolic groups of two or four. The work involved in arranging them another indication of the importance of this place to its worshippers. Everyone found something to intrigue or cause reflection, including a hardy dozen of the 'flower power crowd' who took on the challenge to climb a nearby rocky outcrop for a higher view with our botanist Alex. One of our number really got into the natural spirit of things and took a dip in the icy waters.

Grey Whales frequent shallow coastal feeding grounds along much of the Russia's northeast coast, so off we went in search of their characteristic heart shaped blows. Five Zodiacs full of eyes scanning the horizon for a sign of these creatures which are still legally hunted by native Chukotkan peoples in sustainable numbers, respecting centuries old traditions. We came with a gentler agenda, to catch a glimpse of these graceful animals, to capture an image and delight in being witness to these sea giants in their natural world. Patience was finally rewarded with some fairly close views of the whales busy feeding below and surfacing for air regularly as we watched. Those close enough to smell the whales' outbreath were gifted with a good sniff of their seafood diet - a delightful aroma!

An easy cruise in midday sun brought us alongside island sea cliffs teeming with feathered activity. Perched on ledges were various species of guillemots, murres, Pelagic Cormorants, kittiwakes and gulls, both on the nest and on the wing. A pair of Harlequin Ducks paraded past and a Crested Auklet (the bird world version of Elvis) strutted his stuff. Lunch was followed by a tundra walk with options to soak in natural thermal pools, enjoy summer wild flowers or simply wander at leisure and admire the stark yet beautiful mountain scenery, reminiscent of a Salvador Dali painting. Another great dinner along with a birthday celebration was trumped by vivid pink sunset hues over the edge of Siberia.

Saturday 28th July

Cape Dezhnev

It was an early start for an interesting day ahead. Overcast and foggy skies created an appropriate atmosphere for our approach to Cape Dezhnev. This was once a Cold War military watch station and the most easterly point of Eurasia. A pair of timid walrus appeared and disappeared as fast as breakfast.

The cape is named after Semyon Dezhnev, a Cossack and hired protector for one of the most important Arctic expeditions ever undertaken. In 1648 the rich Russian fur trade prompted Moscow to act on rumours of untold wealth of fur bearing animals, walrus and mammoth ivory in the Anadyr region of the Russian Far East. Wealthy Moscow merchants put together a fleet of seven small sailing ships to discover a sea route across the top of Russia seeking these treasures.

On arrival in Chukotka after five ships had already been wrecked, Dezhnev and a prominent merchant guided the two surviving boats through the Bering Strait and the Pacific Ocean. A further wreck left Dezhnev alone, and he was forced to overwinter twice inland of Anadyr before a remarkable unscheduled rendezvous with another independent expedition that had arrived overland from Moscow. Dezhnev eventually retired in Moscow on a pension granted in honour of his discoveries.

Our own Expedition Leader Rodney had prepared us for potentially tricky conditions (thankfully less so than Dezhnev faced), letting us know the cape's open position was exposed to swells from all directions. We were hoping for calm seas so we could access the coast.

Unfortunately conditions were not kind enough to allow us to land here and so we bid farewell to the small huddle of abandoned patrol buildings decaying on a fast eroding shoreline amid monuments honouring fallen Russian sailors, Dezhnev and neighbouring Inuit Eskimo peoples. One of the oldest Eskimo villages in the area lies deserted inland from here.

We were enthralled by two great lectures during the morning. Firstly Grigory gave us a detailed understanding of wonderful Grey Whales and then Rodney spoke about the 'Russification of Siberia'. In this talk he illuminated the chequered attempts at conquering Russia's remote east, in a broad tapestry from Ivan 'the Terrible', to fur traders, to assimilation of peaceful native cultures.

Soon after lunch we transferred to Uelen village, a tiny Chukchi outpost of scattered buildings, the farthest settlement in north-east Russia and home to 800 people. The village has had a marine mammal harvesting culture for at least 2,000 years and welcomed us with many children on shore plainly delighted at our visit. We sat in a school classroom and were informed by the teacher about the importance placed on teaching indigenous Chukchi culture to village children. We were shown galleries of local photographs, cultural items and a breathtaking display of finely carved ivory, a few for sale which were snapped up by some of the group. A lively performance of dances evoking daily Chukchi life was presented in the village hall and at the end of a memorable visit we were farewelled by the village children waving goodbye on the shore. Small numbers of walrus, Humpback Whales and Largha Seals were spotted out at sea delighting those on the outer decks.

Social drinks, a recap of highlights and dinner, followed by a gathering of wildlife connoisseurs to recount the day's sightings led us one sleep closer to Wrangel Island.

Sunday 29th July

Kolyuchin Island

Today's excitement began around 2am when the unusual movement of the Spirit of Enderby navigating an ice maze woke many. Bleary eyed they appeared on deck to photograph the sunrise and enjoy the view as we made our way towards Kolyuchin Island. The early risers who braved the chill were rewarded with views of Humpback and Bowhead whales and even a few walrus.

A staff scout boat went ashore at Kolyuchin Island after breakfast to assess safety regarding Polar Bears. Once the all clear was given, guests were transferred to a gravelly beach in close reach of cliffs of nesting auks (mostly Brünnich's Guillemots and Horned Puffins), Pelagic Cormorants and various gulls. Abandoned research station buildings littered a grassy plateau and we noted Polar Bear paw prints on one of the windows! While ice made the approach to the island tricky, everyone enjoyed the excursion in relatively mild and occasionally sunny conditions.

Back on board we steadily picked our way towards Wrangel Island through what was an unusually large amount of ice for the time of year. Ice conditions dictated our clearest approach to the island was to make our way slightly west, then turn north during the night to avoid even thicker sea-ice. A variety of whales and seals were spotted from the Bridge and outer decks including Northern Minke, Bowheads, walrus and Largha Seals.

After a scrumptious lunch, Steve offered us a presentation on adaptations of Arctic wildlife and Katya deepened our understanding of the many differences between Antarctica and the Arctic in her lecture 'A World of Contrasts', providing education and entertainment to pass the afternoon.

During social hour in the bar, Rodney explained progress and plans based on regular ice map data arriving from the 'outside world', Grigory talked about myths of Bowhead Whales and Katya shared her knowledge on Polar Bear behaviour and awareness.

Monday 30th July

At Sea

After much discussion last night regarding Polar Bears, we all awoke this morning full of expectation of the chance to spot Polar Bears in their prime hunting habitat of sea ice. This was a definite upside of the ice conditions and to her credit, our sturdy Spirit of Enderby pressed on steadily through heavy ice as we all enjoyed photographing walrus and Ringed Seals and searched intently for the first distant Polar Bears. We were all excited by the true expedition conditions of our journey, the ice well and truly cleaning any hitch-hiking barnacles off the hull as we ground our way through the sea-ice.

Soon after breakfast, attention diverted from the outdoors for Alex's informative lecture on the flora of Russia, an eye-opening account of the incredible variety of micro-habitats supporting a huge variety of plants in this unique region.

After a quick hour on the decks and a cup of tea, Grigory described the communication signals and singing of marine mammals in the lecture theatre. Learning about how whales, dolphins and seals send, receive and use sound, gave us a greater appreciation of these creatures, whose secret lives remain so hidden from view. During this lecture the Bridge notified us of a Polar Bear nearby, so there was a spontaneous intermission while we all raced out to see a bear disappear into the water.

A yummy three course lunch satisfied our bear-like appetites and then our wilderness expedition turned urban as Marieke opened the 'Ship Shop' for the shopaholics in need of a little retail therapy. Who would have thought you could find fridge magnets, tee shirts and possum socks at such reasonable prices, so close to the North Pole!

Late afternoon saw the third in a hat-trick of lectures designed to fully prepare us for the wonderful experiences ahead at Wrangel Island when Katya filled us in on island history and gave us a taste of what was to come. Another Polar Bear was sighted moving across the ice and the upper decks and bridge filled with the excited hum of humans admiring this majestic creature. Good views of walrus pairs and triplets appeared occasionally as we made our way north, finally sighting land before dinner to the delight of all. After dinner the beautiful soft light drew many to outer decks to take in remote stillness.

During the evening Rodney and Katya went ashore to co-ordinate the Overland Traverse excursions which get underway early tomorrow. We slept well knowing we had arrived through a record ice year - the most summer sea ice since the 1970's - and were grateful for the Expedition Leaders' commitment to holding fast to a belief we'd make it through.

Tuesday 31st July

Wrangel Island

Marieke treated us to an early wake-up call this morning for our first day anchored off Wrangel Island. We gathered on deck and enjoyed watching seals and walrus, then went ashore escorted by a lone Grey Whale that cruised the shallow waters.

Overlanders - those hardy few who had opted to take a rangers guided 4WD tour across the island - prepared themselves with a briefing and familiarised themselves with camping equipment that would come in handy for their journey. The purpose built ranger's vehicle was loaded, food and equipment tied down, and the lucky five expeditioners climbed aboard for a unique opportunity to experience the heart of the island. Away they went with Grigory in tow, to help translate and show off his extensive culinary skills.

Those of us left in their wake were determined not to be left out and created our own mini overland excursion (albeit in gumboots) and check out some of the many old buildings in the vicinity. Katya took some more energetic members of the party for a longer walk in the direction of some Musk Oxen we could see keeping their distance from us on the horizon. Alex took flower lovers for a botanical stroll to investigate the summer blooms of the rare and exotic tundra species. Like the Pied Piper, his following seemed to grow with each outing. The rest of us stayed closer to the landing site, finding much to interest us including a Musk Ox skull and skeleton, lemming tracks and their foraging remains revealed after the snow melt, and various tundra birds winging by.

We were told that in 2010 an extreme sea-ice retreat left many Polar Bears on Wrangel in a state of starvation and found evidence of excavations bears had made to find scurrying Lemmings, which they would normally never bother to eat - a sign of desperate times. Irina, a scientist who lives much of her time on Wrangel, kindly showed those interested the inside of one of the science huts.

Afternoon sailing included cameo appearances of Polar Bears, many walrus, several Ringed Seals and a Minke Whale. Polar Bears sharing a seal meal were a big drawcard keeping everyone on the upper decks so late that Monique and Noel kindly put dinner on hold until all had their hunger for wildlife viewing satiated. A Russian Beer, fine food and good company rounded out a varied and special day.

Wednesday 1st August

Wrangel Island

How many days can you wake up and watch four Polar Bears eating breakfast before you do? We did just that, and were privy to the social interaction between hungry competitors for seal meat. Despite the competition we had to admire their willingness to co-operate and allow occasional shared meals which ultimately may prove essential to their survival.

Unlike the bears, our breakfast consisted of croissants and coffee, muesli, bacon and eggs. Like them we also fed shoulder to shoulder, but without quite so much growling or clawing. Then, dropping the Zodiacs into the icy sea, we slipped quietly towards them for a closer look. The two bears still feeding were shy and retreated to the water as we approached, but not before most of us had taken some excellent photos. We re-boarded the ship and made our way to Blossom Bay where we dropped anchor. Here we visited a hut surrounded by walrus skulls and whalebones where Nikita Ovsyanikov studied Polar Bears and made a documentary of this work.

Rodney led the 'calorie burner - take no prisoners' march in search of spontaneous points of interest, Katya a separate walk with other perspectives in a different direction and Alex with his buoyant band of botanisers, crawled about on hands and knees, looking more like a group of prostrating pilgrims, than expeditioners. The heavy ice conditions offshore meant bears were more likely to be hunting seals away from land, but the expedition team still maintained a watchful eye on the surrounds.

As we enjoyed lunch back on board, the ship travelled west, attempting to find a way through sea ice to a rendezvous with the Overlanders. However nature eventually dictated that we must return to the original drop-off point while enjoying views of Ringed and Bearded Seals and numerous walrus females with young enjoying their summer migration.

In the late afternoon we were privileged to see the documentary filmed by Nikita Ovsyanikov, Russia's foremost Polar Bear expert, whose hut we had visited earlier. Personal, informative and surprisingly intimate experiences of close encounters with Polar Bears kept all eyes keenly focussed on this gentleman's observations of nature's Arctic King. The footage was enhanced by his insightful commentary on their behaviour driven by extreme exposure to the elements, danger and isolation.

After the movie, boats sped off over glassy seas towards Cape Doubtful to pick up returning Overlanders and transfer five new explorers to replace them. Returning Overlanders were full of stories about their wonderful experiences of Musk Oxen, Snowy Owls, Arctic Foxes, blooming wild flowers and a deeper awareness of what treasures lay hidden behind the low coastal hills on this magical island.

In the evening recap of day, Rodney, Katya and Alex expanded on various themes and talked about the challenges of itinerary planning in such harsh ice conditions. This was a good reminder to us all of how expedition voyaging is an unpredictable beast which needs constant monitoring.

Thursday 2nd August

Wrangel Island

Overnight we continued to sail along the south coast of Wrangel Island, this time towards the east, with a 'to be determined' meeting place in mind for our second platoon of intrepid overlanders. Thick fog set in during the early hours and due to the icy and in the interests of safety, we slowed down to drift for a while, waking this morning to a wonderful mosaic of aqua coloured ice floes, kissing the hull on all sides.

After a lovely hot breakfast complemented by fresh fruit, we were briefed on the outline for the day, and soon arrived at Rodgers Bay, a shamble of what was once a small village, complete with school, shop and a 'main street'. Alex took the 'plant people' to the left, while Katya and Irina walked with the rest of us to the right, offering an intimate view of life and history in a place inhabited by man for less than 100 years. Village windows had boards that could be slid into their frames with huge 10 cm nails pointing outwards to discourage curious bears from joining the dinner parties inside. We visited a new weather station and saw the scattered bones of mammoth, walrus, reindeer, Musk Ox, Polar Bears and whales. A storage shed housed many of the village's proudest possessions - a new Zodiac, snowmobiles (though many were more vintage than reliable high powered transport) and an old 'bulletproof' 4WD that must have been stored more for sentimentality than any practical use.

After lunch we watched another Polar Bear from the ship and then Anatoly (a ranger on board to oversee travel within the Wrangel protected zone) gave a very enlightening talk on 'Life on Wrangel Island'. It was interesting to hear about his personal wildlife experiences, and hear about the hardship of long, cold, dark winters from someone living semi-permanently in the Arctic.

Katya and Irina led a walk in the tundra to see Snowy Owls, Common Eiders and their chicks and the strange and interesting polygonal patterns made by permafrost freeze and thaw, while Alex took the chance to do some more exploring with photosynthetic friends. Later in the afternoon Irina, a scientist specialising in behavioural ecology, gave an excellent presentation illustrated with her own spectacular photos. She gave a deep and thorough analysis of both of her chosen specialty species, the Arctic Fox and Snowy Owl. Those present felt privileged to look through the window she opened into the lives of these Arctic creatures and the relationship between them.

After dinner it was time to relax and welcome back Grigory and our second bunch of Overlanders. We retired to our cabins hoping that the ice would be kind for our journey south and were rocked gently to sleep by the quiet hum of the engines.

Friday 3rd August

At Sea

Crystal clear conditions created beautiful reflections of ice in the blue ocean as we moved with the currents through a challenging but workable passage south toward the North Siberian coastline. Another delicious breakfast was followed by a very close encounter with a Polar Bear which even followed the ship for a few minutes as we slid through the ice maze. It's always a special day when bears turn up out of what appears to be an endless horizon of ice. This encounter had everyone abuzz and talking about how incredibly at home they are in this rich, yet seemingly foreign landscape for a once land mammal.

Steve got the day's education underway with his presentation on walrus the 'Tooth-walker'. We had seen many around Wrangel Island and were hoping to see more hauled out on the Chukotka coast on our return journey. After morning tea, Alex brightened up our day with an excellent lecture on the Adaptation of Arctic plants - a colourful screening of the amazing variety of conditions met and overcome by a surprising array of plants and flowers.

In between lectures everyone made the most of the views from the Bridge and decks, snapping photos of several Ringed Seals, at times close enough to see the whole body beneath the water surface and sometimes just spy-hopping to take a look at us. Many Bearded Seals were also sighted, often hauled out on the ice, and we were thinking it was only a matter of time before we would see their main predator. Sure enough more Polar Bears came into view as the day unfolded.

After lunch Katya took centre stage to present us with a comprehensive presentation entitled 'What is the future for Polar Bears?' Katya tackled big questions including climate, evolution and behaviour of these intriguing and beautiful animals, providing much food for thought.

Most of the group spent the afternoon on deck, while others grabbed forty winks or sorted through photos in the library. Later in the day Part One of a new documentary on Russia was screened, before the daily social gathering in the bar provided a chance to snap up items the Wrangel Island Rangers had provided for sale to raise funds to support their World Heritage site.

Rodney outlined the plan for a landing tomorrow at Kolyuchin Inlet and possibly another as yet unexplored site. Grigory gave a detailed account of the experiences of both groups of Wrangel 'Overlanders' and Katya gave a warm and timely farewell to Wrangel Island. John, one of the expedition guests, unexpectedly stepped forward and presented Rodney with a signed copy of Stefansson's original 'Journey to Wrangel Island' which was very gratefully received.

During the evening we watched the Russian icebreaker Yamal slip past at a distance - a good sign that the Spirit of Enderby was mixing it with the best in this ice! An orange sunset over sea ice signalled that is was time to reflect and recharge for more great natural encounters come the morning light.

Saturday 4th August

Kolyuchin Inlet

The beautiful blaze of colour last night had been a good omen and we awoke to Marieke's dulcet tones, gently letting us know that a brilliant sunny day lay just the other side of our sleepy eyelids. After breakfast we donned our lighter expedition clothing and ventured ashore at Onman Point seeking Brown Bears. An early riser among us had spotted one on shore at 6 am. There were tracks of a female and cub, and tracks of Arctic Fox and Wolverine along the shoreline, but alas no bears. We did see some Red-necked Stint picking through tidal pools in water runoffs and Alex and the Photo-synthesisers (no, not a new Arctic rock group) wandered and discovered three new species for their trip. Some of the group climbed through the boggy, lush Tundra to view a shipwreck rusting on shore while others lay like basking seals on the beach.

After lunch it was time to catch the second episode of our 'Russia' documentary, an interesting modern look at many aspects of life, people and country in this great land. Then it was time to launch the Zodiacs and go exploring in Kolyuchin Inlet, on a search of waterfowl, migratory waders and hopefully the elegant Emperor Goose. The sunshine persisted through light wispy clouds so people reached for sunhats for their afternoon soiree. Still waters made for easy spotting of a Grey Whale upon departure followed by a pleasant cruise to the shore where we explored the wetlands finding all manner of marine mammal bones scattered about. We noted a fox den, active Arctic Ground Squirrel burrows, cool mosaic tundra flora, the jawbone of an ermine (weasel, Stoat), varied old signs of habitation and plenty of fresh brown bear tracks.

On the way back to the ship some curious Spotted Seals popped up to check us out and a Minke Whale surfaced to say hello. It was time for some social chit chat in the bar, dinner to top off an excellent spot of summer weather and a warm welcome to the Russian mainland.

Sunday 5th August

Cape Dezhnev

A welcome sleep-in and later than usual breakfast was our reward for the recent active full days. With our second crack at Cape Dezhnev due at 11 am (the weather had been too unfriendly on the way north to Wrangel), we squeezed in the 3rd instalment of the 'Russia' documentary after breakfast.

This time the weather was kind, with the swell abating for us to go ashore at the cape and most people chose to join the adventure. A stern (reverse) landing made it more comfortable to disembark, though not for Rodney and Alex who were up to their shoulders in freezing water to steady incoming Zodiacs. A fresh breeze blew through the Bering Strait and the sun shone brightly through misty sea conditions to add atmosphere and great light to this mysteriously intriguing place.

The isolated, deserted cluster of houses including memorials to explorer heroes and international 'co-operation' was once a Cold War outpost and had all the atmosphere of such a place. Yet, looking deeper, one could sense the ancient origins of Eskimo peoples who once lived their lives in a village just inland from this spot. Depressions in the ground showed the outlines of Eskimo dwellings, with scattered rock wall fragments stimulating the imagination further. Crested Auklets on the wing observed the shuttling Zodiacs.

Back on board, a few relaxed, read more in a favourite book, meditatively continued complex embroidery or relaxed with a hot cup of tea and enjoyed doing nothing save reflect on the journey and delight in the seabirds about the ship. Departing Cape Dezhnev we travelled a short distance to Big Diomede Island, just one nautical mile from yesterday. Yes, trying to understand how it works wasn't easy, but of course the International Date Line lay just a few metres to the east and here we truly sat in tomorrow, looking back at yesterday through misty glasses.

With some friendly negotiation we managed to secure a rare acceptance on the part of the Russian Border Guards to Zodiac along the coast of their island. Someone imagined they'd seen a Polar Bear, but of course it was highly unlikely for an 'ice bear' to be this far south. However it did turn out to be a Polar Bear! Left behind by the retreating ice, it was going to be a very tough summer for an animal that normally needs an icy platform from which to hunt seals, its main prey. The bear sighted us and quickly took to hiding among large boulders at the base of steep cliffs. Our attention turned to the cliffs which were alive with seabirds of every description. Lovable Horned Puffins flew precariously with splayed legs toward feeding grounds. Others spluttered helplessly across the water surface, their moulting process making it difficult to get airborne. Stylish Tufted Puffins were also about, guillemots in countershaded rows packed the ledges and ravens swooped from lofty perches to seek weaker prey. Gulls relaxed in suitable nooks, Pigeon Guillemots, black, white and red sat silently enjoying their own company. A family of Harlequin Ducks hushed along the secluded shoreline and Parakeet and Least Auklets littered the passage back to ship.

Monday 6th August

Yttygran Island

The temperature rose considerably as we left the Arctic Ocean and pack ice, well to the north of us now, though yesterday's Polar Bear sighting reminded us that this may be as warm as it gets any time of year and that the ice was closer than it felt today. Marieke confirmed the days rosy prospects when she announced the ship thermometers were recording a tropical 15°! Hot bagels, fresh fruit and coffee got our engines started and we found our way into a sheltered harbour and dropped anchor. Protected from southerly winds that were whipping the sea's surface, we disembarked shore side for optional walks in untouched, remote, tundra hills with patches of late spring snow still thawing in places.

Katya and Grigory led some, including birders upstream looking for wading birds, while Rodney and Alex made an unlikely combination of burly mountain climbers and gentle flower seekers. Others ambled along the waters edge, taking it easy and enjoying the glacially scoured scenery while investigating the various treasures the sea washed up. The groups were shuttled back to the ship as they returned. The mountaineers and sprightly leotarded plant people returned, agleam with the rosy cheeks of those that had seen breathless views, had an eye to eye standoff with an Arctic Hare and scrambled to the highest point they could find.

Good food rolled out as we did for lunch - it was a chance to gather ourselves and watch a further instalment of the 'Russia' series as an afternoon matinee, while the very capable crew sailed on towards our afternoon destination. Two Minke Whales slipped quietly past our ship to the delight of those watching at the time. We were welcomed on arrival at the southern end of Yttygran Island in sheltered, still conditions by Minke Whales, slowly cruising by us on the surface. As the Minke moved on, a Grey Whale slipped through the scenery, enjoying the rich feeding grounds.

More exploring was on the agenda, so we all went ashore, with harder walking options, tundra botany and beachcombing all on the menu. The sun shone eerily orange through burnt skies, perhaps due to fires in the south or volcanic soot being swept north on prevailing winds. Varied discoveries included a fossilised walrus tusk, a Horned Puffin beak, whalebones, Sandhill Cranes and great views from the higher places.

Returning to Spirit of Enderby, a good vibe in the group told the story of a day well spent and duly celebrated with a social drink (or two) in the bar and a good night's rest. Tomorrow would be spent at sea as we travelled south towards the end of our adventure.

Tuesday 7th August

Bering Strait

During the night back out in the exposed Bering Sea, we rolled a little, but certainly nothing like the Southern Ocean. We were rocked gently awake on an even swell and made our way to breakfast as the ship made its way past Provedeniya on the way to Anadyr. Today would give us a chance to take a breath and relive the weeks we had shared together.

Mid morning saw the final episode of the popular 'Russia' series screened, which satisfied our craving for some 'outside world' type entertainment while filling in more of the picture of the Russia we had already experienced. Rodney then responded to a request by many to talk about the work of Heritage Expeditions on behalf of the Spoon-billed Sandpiper, a native of this region. Heritage is doing very important work as a 'Species Champion' to save this critically endangered bird.

Lunch was provided as usual by the dynamic duo of Noel and Monique, who throughout the voyage had offered us magnificent meals. Then it was time to start packing, tie up some loose ends, finalise accounts and attend a briefing on departure plans for the morning in Anadyr. Rodney then used a wall map to talk us through the various places we had visited and some of the expedition team took the opportunity to wish everyone well on their onward journeys.

Then, on this our final afternoon, came the chance to relax and reminisce over our voyage slideshow, a collation of photos from the expedition brilliantly put together by Katya and shown on the big screen in the Lecture Theatre with evocative musical themes. It was a great reminder of the places, characters and moments we enjoyed together and the memories we would take home with us. Afterwards most guests retired to the bar requesting a copy of the presentation, and there we all stayed for our last pre-dinner social gathering. After a delicious seafood buffet and one last recap from Alex on the buds and blooms discovered on this expedition, we watched the escort of Northern Fulmars gliding effortlessly silhouetted against a flaming sky as we slipped into Anadyr Bay.

Our great adventure was now over, but the photographs and memories would linger a lifetime.

Wednesday 8th August

Anadyr

The Nome bound expeditioners started early with a last breakfast on the ship, followed by a sunny walk across Anadyr's wharf with bags in tow towards a final encounter with the Anadyr River. There they boarded the 'good ferry Kamchatka' and were escorted on the crossing by the ever present Beluga Whales which frolicked in the shallow waters.

The Moscow bound expeditioners relaxed for a few extra hours aboard the Spirit of Enderby, then they too made the river journey to the airport and their homebound flight.

Our great adventure was now over, but the photographs and memories would linger a lifetime.