HA230731: Kimberley Explorer: Expedition Cruising Australia's Iconic Kimberley Coast

KIMBERLEY EXPLORER

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

31 July - 10 August 2023

Day 1
Monday 31 July
Darwin

We arrived today at the City of Darwin, tropical capital of Australia's Northern Territory, famed for its sparkling harbour, outdoor adventures, and lifestyle. After making our way to the busy Port Darwin our excitement grew as we saw our new home, Heritage Adventurer, looking stately docked and patiently for us to board.

We were welcomed aboard by our Expedition Leader, Captain, Expedition Team and Hospitality Team over refreshments and given an opportunity to enjoy our luxurious new staterooms and suites. Shortly after, a call came from the PA informing us that it was time for a mandatory lifeboat drill. Afterwards we met back at the Bar & Lounge for a captivating introduction from our special guest Michael Butler who serenaded us with a preview of his expertise on the yidaki or didgeridoo, an Indigenous Australian instrument, that would be featured along our voyage. By evening we delighted in our first, of what would be many, gourmet dinners prepared by the Hospitality Team to finish off our first day on board.

Day 2
Tuesday August 1
King George River

This morning we woke to a gentle 0700 message over the PA system from our Cruise Manager Suzanne, who reminded us that breakfast was being served in the dining room.

Our first full day on our Kimberley Explorer expedition started off at sea crossing the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf or, as it's colloquially known, the Blownapart Gulf for its often choppy seas. Not so this morning! Smooth sailing meant a chance to watch for seabirds or bait balls in the water from the large dining room windows during breakfast.

Following this was our first briefing in the lounge for a trip overview from our Expedition Leader Steve about our upcoming excursion this afternoon and an overview of the Kimberley from Tina - now our excitement was really building! She talked about everything from the geology to the pearling history, from early explorers to World War II, from crocodiles to birds and the different types of Indigenous Australian rock art we'll be seeing. What a fantastic place we were about to explore!

Steve finished off the morning with a presentation on the history of Koolama Bay where we would be heading this afternoon, and its connection to World War II.

After lunch we donned our life vests, boarded our Zodiacs and off we zoomed up the incredibly scenic King George River as our drivers shared all sorts of information to get us acquainted with the cliffs we were dwarfed by and the animals we encountered (from Sacred Kingfishers and Eastern Reef and Striated Herons to 3-4 Humpback Dolphins with a very small calf!). We all had such a great time on the river that our short duration cruisers who chose to come out for only a couple hours ended up returning during a beautiful sunset and a bright full moon after three and a half hours! Time sure flies when you're having fun, and what an incredible location to start our exploration of the Kimberley.

Back on board were introduced to the senior officers and management as we shared a great toast to fair weather and a safe voyage over the Captain's Welcome Drinks followed by an extraordinary dining experience.

Day 3
Wednesday 2 August
Vansittart Bay

Early starts are always worth it, right? Well it sure was the case this morning as we enjoyed breakfast while the sun came up and the moon's reflection danced across the water. All this while Heritage Adventurer sailed for the war-time plane wreck at Vansittart Bay with barely no wind.

We walked across mudflats in small groups looking out for the Mudskippers, Elegant Fiddler Crabs and various birds that frequent the area and enjoyed a few unique stops along the way with our guides who shared information about the Douglas C-53 Skytrooper (DC-3) that crash landed in the bush. What an incredible sight - the gleaming metallic skeleton of the plane overgrown by nature and an incredible tale of wartime survival. We also learnt about the beautiful endemic Kimberley Boab, observed Green Ant nests, various wild flowers including Sundews, and a couple termite mounds as well. It's a landing with a little bit of something for everyone.

Back on board our trusty expedition vessel, Heritage Adventurer repositioned closer to Jar Island. Unfortunately, the early morning calm had been replaced by gusting winds preventing our landing so preparations began for tomorrow's visit to Ashmore Reef. The pool deck was the place to be with many of us reading on the lounge chairs, others in the pool or trying out snorkelling gear for tomorrow while the rest of us chatted with new friends overlooking the ocean.

During the afternoon we enjoyed lectures on the geology of the Kimberley, a big topic to get your head around but an important aspect of visiting this region; as well as our guest presenter Michael Butler on his Message Stick documentary, a journey made in outback Australia driving a vehicle made for war and reshaped for peace.

Day 4
Thursday 3 August
Ashmore Reef

What luck we had today as Heritage Adventurer arrived to the calm winds and international waters surrounding the massive Ashmore Reef and its tiny sandy islets.

It made for an easy Zodiac cruise as we divided ourselves between those who were snorkelling and those who were cruising. We had a fantastic time looking for turtles and observing rays zooming under the water's surface and taking in the incredible myriad of corals and colourful fish. The spectacular skies were also aflutter with Frigatebirds, Boobies, Tropicbirds and numerous Terns and Noddies.

Later, back on board, Dave lead two birding sessions at aft Deck 6 as we approached and departed the reef with a great turnout from keen birders and those who returned from the Zodiac cruise with a new-found appreciation for birding! It's hard not to get into the spirit with so many wonderful and curious birds flying so close for us to observe.

In the afternoon we enjoyed a presentation on the Marine Turtles of the Kimberley after we were lucky enough to spot many of their tracks on Ashmore Reef's West Island.Following some afternoon 'little lie downs' as they have become known on the ship, we made our way to the Bar & Lounge for some sweet treats and afternoon tea, then straight into cocktail hour poolside - one of the joys of being on board a ship with a pool! We relished the fact that we would never go thirsty or hungry on this voyage and still be able to get our steps in as we made our way around the ship. Many of us also spent time in the Observation Lounge to read or simply gaze out at sea through the many panoramic windows.

Just before our evening recap Michael Butler gave an enlightening presentation on The Yidaki, A Journey of Sound and Spirit. His expertise as a didgeridoo player shone as he explored the history, significance and techniques of playing this ancient instrument. The days are always full aboard Heritage Adventurer, and today was no exception.

Day 5
Friday 4 August
Bigge Island & Careening Bay

This morning we had the chance to sleep in, enjoy some more birding or get our photos in order as Heritage Adventurer sailed towards Bigge Island. Following a cryptic briefing last night we piled into our Zodiacs bound for adventures unknown as we cruised along the stunning coastline of Wary Bay on Bigge Island.

Here the imposing rough and tumble blocks of sandstone of the Wunaamin Miliwundi Ranges, the oldest sedimentary rock in the Kimberley, were joined by Heron, Kite and Osprey along the calm crystal blue water's edge. We were then whisked off to a small lagoon and ushered into a spectacular cave locally known as Cathedral Cave where the unmistakable sounds of a yidaki (didgeridoo) bounced off the cave walls as our special guest Michael Butler serenaded us from a ledge above. After exploring this remarkable cave, we headed back to our trusty expedition vessel where Phil gave a presentation on Phillip Parker King, the Great Australian Navigator, a preamble to our afternoon excursion to Careening Bay.

Careening Bay offered a fantastic and relaxing excursion where we meandered at our own pace to explore what the beach had to offer, while our Expedition Team were stationed at key highlights to provide valuable interpretations on everything from the beach's geology, endemic cycads, the famous Mermaid Boab Tree, a Bowerbird's bower, beautiful flora, and of course any birds and insects discovered along the way.

We arrived back on board in time for sunset cocktails and wrapped another delightful day of discovery on the Kimberley coast.

Day 6
Saturday 5 August
Swift Bay

It was a beautifully calm morning for today's visit to Swift Bay where we marvelled at the incredible Indigenous Australian rock art of both Wandjina and Gwion Gwion styles. Our local guides announced our presence to these sacred sites, calling out to the spirits and elders in a show of respect, and shared the history and story of the land.

Guests who considered themselves in the aptly-named 'Olympic athletes' group were taken to a less accessible site to view a great wall of Gwion Gwion art adjacent to a cave, discovering a Green Tree Snake among the rocks, while learning about the art from our guides.

After lunch and a short repositioning of Heritage Adventurer to the west side of the bay, we made our way across the sandstone terrain to what had looked like a gigantic pile of sandstone rubble from the ship but was actually an incredible rock art gallery featuring countless pieces of Wandjina art. It was a fabulous expanse to explore with plenty of room to roam, various conversation pieces to gather around, as well as small trails through the Spinifex for those to explore and look for birds and other wildlife. All agreed that it was a very special location indeed.

Back on board we had a pre-cap on top of our usual recap and briefing, all about the mangroves that we'll be seeing tomorrow during what many guides have described as their favourite expedition day - as if things could get any better on this voyage, each day seems to top the previous, and it is all truly spectacular.

Day 7
Sunday 6 August
Porosus Creek

Porosus Creek certainly lived up to its name today! Crocodylus Porosus, or the saltwater crocodile, is most likely to be spotted here and today was no exception. With Heritage Adventurer anchored up the Hunter River near the entrance to Porosus Creek, we saw our first 'salties' within minutes of our Zodiac cruise and many more during.

However, it seemed like the stars of the show were the Mudskippers, too numerous to count! They delighted everyone with their flicks of tails, skipping along the mud banks or making mad dashes across the creek waters in front of our Zodiacs. We watched one particular Striated Heron hunting for a Mudskipper for a meal with limited success.

At one point we heard a cacophony of noise coming from the mangrove canopy as we cruised by, unmistakably bats, though none visible to clearly identify. Numerous bird sightings, beautiful mangroves, vast expanses of low tide mudflats and towering cliffs surrounding us on all sides ... Perosus Creek really is a spectacular location with a little something for everyone. We enjoyed the best of both worlds as the tide had risen enough on the way back to Heritage Adventurer for at least one more excursion, now with enough water flooding into the mangroves and covering the mudbanks once more.

Guests opting for the Mitchell Falls helicopter excursion were treated to another of the Kimberley's natural wonders with a chance to stretch their legs up at the falls and an incredible scenic heli-flight enjoyed by all. The views from above really put this great, ancient land into perspective.

The afternoon was a quiet and relaxed affair until about 1545 when a call came over the PA announcing several Humpback Whale sightings, including a young calf learning to breach! This delayed the afternoon briefing and recap by about 15 minutes while folks hurried towards the bow of the ship for a better look. As it was al fresco dining on Deck 6 this evening for the BBQ, we had our briefing early and heard more about Fiddler Crabs and Mudskippers during recap. Hats off to our chefs on board who put together an outstanding BBQ, complete with all their fruit art displays, and a baked bread-croc too! Spirits were high as plenty of stories were traded from the day.

Day 8
Monday 7 August
Talbot Bay, Horizontal Falls

Today was a very special day, certainly when it came to geology, as Heritage Adventurer arrived at Talbot Bay to experience Buccaneer Archipelago's iconic Horizontal Falls.

Famously described by Sir David Attenborough as "one of the greatest natural wonders of the world" our Expedition Leader and Captain had arranged our visit to coincide at their peak ebb and flow, giving us the best opportunity to take our Zodiacs up close and fully experience these turbulent waters as they thundered out of the two main embayments through the eroded gaps among Warton and Pentecost sandstone layers of rock. With options of a longer and shorter Zodiac cruise of this incredible display, it was a thrill to feel the rush of water as our drivers skillfully powered through the strong flows. It was a spectacular sight to see, as we were surrounded by sheer vertical layers of rock above and all around us, rather than the usual horizontal blocks typical of many other locations we've visited.

After the falls we explored Talbot Creek, or as it's more commonly referred to as Cyclone Creek, to marvel at more geologic formations of rock that have been folded, buckled, bent and reshaped over millennia - truly magnificent scenery. At the end of the creek, among the Kimberley Rose trees, the Wedge-tailed and White-bellied Sea Eagles, we also observed several crocodiles! Our guides pointed out the strong claw marks in the mud of one sunbathing atop a steep mudbank watching us watching it, while another was observed sliding into the water.

Today though the star was truly the geology as we cruised out of Talbot Bay, taking in the many islands with all their picturesque and varying degrees of horizontal to vertical layers in this region that's been so drastically changed over time. With presentations, a near U-turn of our trusty expedition vessel for the sighting of a Humpback Whale, and plenty of warm sunshine poolside up on Deck 7, today was another incredible day exploring Australia's endlessly fascinating Kimberley.

Day 9
Tuesday 8 August
Montgomery Reef & Freshwater Cove

An early start saw us departing Heritage Adventurer in our Zodiacs at 0700 for a cruise at Montgomery Reef, the world's largest inshore reef system. With a tidal range exceeding 9-metres, the ebbing tide creates a spectacular phenomenon of waterfalls and rivers as the water drains off the reef which appears to rise up out of the water. We were treated to incredibly close views of numerous turtles as well as fish and birds, mostly Reef Herons, feeding on the exposed reef. The ebbing tide soon started to slow and it was time to return to the Heritage Adventurer.

The rest of the morning was spent at leisure after which the hospitality team once again exceeded our expectations with a live pasta cooking station set up in the dining room for lunch.

While we were enjoying lunch, our Captain had repositioned Heritage Adventurer to Freshwater Cove or Wijingarra Bard Bard, home to the Arraluli people. They had met us on the beach and we were privileged to receive a Welcome to Country that acknowledge our arrival as guests. Afterwards our cheeks were daubed with ochre, and we walked inland to the site of a cave featuring ancient Wandjina rock art. A couple of local guides joined us to interpret these paintings and, after hearing their stories behind the creation of the ancient rock art, we were given an opportunity to admire the different images that adorned the site before we decided to return back to Heritage Adventurer.

Day 10
Wednesday 9 August
Hidden Island

Today afforded a leisurely sleep in as Heritage Adventurer approached Hidden Island and breakfast was served at 0800.

On offer this morning was a full circumnavigation of Hidden Island, a shorter Zodiac cruise along its shores, or the chance to come ashore to the white silica sand beach and enjoy a cold refreshment in the form of mimosas or juices. The cruisers saw lots of turtles, colourful coral reefs, birds including Osprey, Egrets, Herons and White-bellied Sea Eagles, a Reef Shark, an old abandoned Osprey nest, and plenty of little islets to weave through. Among the stunning sandstone formations were termite mounds, and plenty of angles to photograph the peculiar geometry and lines of the rocks piled so spectacularly over time.

While the tide was a bit too low for the cruisers to explore among the mangroves, the waters were a serene calm turquoise blue - perfect for spotting the first crocodile of the day as it drifted without a ripple through the waters. Once ashore the squeaky sand between our toes was a delight as we looked for tracks from Quoll and Hermit Crabs, photographed the beautiful Kimberley Heath adorning the cliff sides, and generally relaxed with drinks in hand while taking in the beauty of this hidden beach tucked away in the Buccaneer Archipelago.

After lunch on board, much activity ensued including a quiz of our adventure so far. It was an enjoyable afternoon, and before we knew it it was time for the Captain's farewell and much anticipated voyage slideshow, lovingly put together by our photographer Cathy. It certainly highlighted an exceptional time had by all, and it will be a heartfelt moment to say goodbye to new friends tomorrow in Broome.

Day 11
Thursday 10 August
Broome

Our final day on board Heritage Adventurer treated us to one last delicious breakfast togetheras we arrived at the Port of Broome. While our adventures exploring the Kimberley may be over, may the lasting friendships, memories, and photographs gathered along the way keep this experience fresh in our hearts for years to come. Until our next voyage, safe travels!