HA230721: Kimberley Explorer: Expedition Cruising Australia's Iconic Kimberley Coast

KIMBERLEY EXPLORER

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

21 - 31 July 2023

Day 1
Friday 21 July
Broome

We arrived at the relaxed resort town of Broome, once a former wild frontier and now gateway to the Kimberley, and made our way to the Port of Broome for the first glimpse of our new home away from home Heritage Adventurer. Greeted by our expedition team, including our Expedition Leader Shirley, along with our Captain and hospitality team who spoiled us with a wonderful round of welcome refreshments and dinner, it was time for a mandatory lifeboat drill. What a pleasure it was for many of us meeting for the first time, intrepid travellers from different walks of life coming together excited for the adventures that lay ahead.

Day 2
Saturday 22 July
Lacepede Islands

Our morning arrival to the Lacepede Islands saw winds blowing up to 30 knots as we safely watched the spectacle over breakfast at the restaurant. Our expedition team made rearrangements to postpone our morning Zodiac excursion in anticipation of calmer conditions and we enjoyed a lecture by Niall on the history and birds of the Lacepede Islands instead. This allowed everyone the opportunity familiarise themselves with the birds we expect to see later today.

After lunch the wind dropped, and the decision was made to head for the Lacepede Islands where we enjoyed great views of a large crocodile, Manta Ray and a host of bird species. Brown Boobies littered the beaches and Masked Boobies were also present.

Once everyone was back on Heritage Adventurer, we met with our Captain and made a toast to the weather, for good luck, over the Captain's Welcome Drinks. We then enjoyed an excellent dinner and made for bedtime as the next day's 0500 start was one that needed an early night.

Day 3
Sunday 23 July
Montgomery Reef and Freshwater Cove

Our early morning start was put on hold with the news that 30 knot winds were blowing outside and the opportunity to see the sun rise at Montgomery Reef was cleverly rearranged for sunset as we instead set sail for Freshwater Cove. Upon arrival, we were given a ceremonial Welcome to Country by the traditional owners of the land.

Known by the local indigenous people as Wijingarra Bard Bard, Freshwater Cove is named after the Northern Quoll. During the dreamtime or Indigenous Australian story of creation, a Northern Quoll came from the water and shook its back creating the freshwater holes and soaks still present to this day. The caves we visited here had some amazing Wandjina style indigenous artwork to round off an amazing visit.

Our second attempt at Montgomery Reef was nothing less than spectacular. We floated in our Zodiacs waiting for the reef to appear looking for any little signs that might signal the reef was emerging. With excitement we waited and slowly the sea indicated a change coming. The water around us started to behave as though something was awakening below us. Ripples started to form and then the water seemed to lift out of the sea. Everyone was in awe of this natural wonder watching the reef 'rise' up out of the water igniting a feeding frenzy for birds, sharks and turtles alike as small fish were displaced. With the sun melting into the horizon our return Heritage Adventurer in the quickly falling night allowed us to observe a large shooting star - the ultimate pre-dinner show capping off a day that will never be forgotten.

Day 4
Monday 24 July
Talbot Bay

After breakfast in the sunshine we departed in our Zodiacs at 0800 to explore the exciting waters of Talbot Bay. A gentle breeze over the sea meant our Zodiac drivers needed skillfully work to keep us dry. Watching the Horizontal Falls do their thing left us in awe, of their power, with an Olympic-sized swimming pool passing through the entrance on the changing tide every second. Everyone had the chance to experience the energy moving through as we positioned our boats at the entrance of the gap. We also spotted a Rock-wallaby which was a fantastic surprise as they don't always show themselves at the falls and a Collared Sparrowhawk.

We carried on to Cyclone Creek for a few hours and had spectacular observations of several birds of prey. Sea and Wedge-tailed Eagle, Osprey, Brahminy Kite and Whistling Kite showed really well and a crocodile was our last reward at the head of the creek which basked in the sun among the mangroves.

Lunch was calling, so we returned to Heritage Adventurer followed by what was becoming a compulsory afternoon nap. We then enjoyed a few short lectures from Shelly on Green Sea Turtles, Allie on coral Rhodoliths, Jessa on the Insects of the Kimberly and Steve on the Tides.

Dinner was at 1900 after our recap and briefing at 1830 which covered everything that was planned for tomorrow's adventures.

Day 5
Tuesday 25 July
Hunter River & Porosus Creek

Heritage Adventurer set anchor in Prince Frederick Harbour for an early start as, following last night's briefing, we were given several options for a morning Zodiac cruise along Porosus Creek including a 0730 start for the early birds among us. An exciting helicopter option started at 0630 for those who wished to see the Kimberly's Mitchell Falls from the sky and visit the falls.

The tide was low during the morning for our Zodiac cruise, and we all enjoyed spectacular views of crocodiles with a peak count of 13 from Steve's Zodiac. The mudflats showed many signs of life with Flame-backed Fiddler Crabs and Mudskippers, while several Sea Eagles and Brahminy Kites rounded off our wildlife encounters in the area.

Lunch on board Heritage Adventurer was followed by a lie down which everyone but Cheli seemed to require. The announcement came loud and clear that our next outing was at 1500 for a high tide Zodiac cruise of the mangroves. We moved over to what were once mudflats to a enjoy the bird calls and drifted quietly, with the engine off, on what was now a falling tide. The sun made the cliffs glow red in a way that seemed like opal reflecting back. We enjoyed the company of a pod of Snubfin Dolphins on the return to our trusty expedition vessel as our Captain navigated Heritage Adventurer to the entrance of Porosus Creek and saved us the long ride home.

Day 6
Wednesday 26 July
Bigge Island and Careening Bar

We arrived on Bigge Island as the tide was dropping, noticing that the Flatback Turtles had been up laying eggs the night before as the tracks in the sand were fresh. We started our visit with a short walk around the tombolo and navigated the Spinifex to reach caves that showed several early contact drawings featuring three figures in Western attire, with pipes and shoes together with sailing ships. All pointed to the fact that these Wandjina-style drawings were a few hundred years old at most making for an incredible highlight of our visit.

The afternoon adventures began at 1500 after an afternoon nap which allowed time for our delicious lunch to settle.

Careening Bay during the high tide provided an easy disembarkation. We set up camp in front of the cycads, ancient trees related to the ferns and allies.

We made our way to the famous boab tree from Phillip Parker King's HMS Mermaid expedition which bares the engraving that King ordered his carpenter to create at the time, the tree is thought to be at least 1,000 years old. Carson Volcanics surrounded the bay with basalt boulders littering one side of the beach. We all went for a short walk to witness the spectacular constructions that the Great Bowerbirds have made; twigs and shells all placed with the sole objective to win the hearts of a female partner. A dingo made a short appearance, seemingly to check for any scraps or perhaps curious as to what we were doing on its beach.

With the sun setting just as the last Zodiacs were back on board, we settled in for an evening of BBQ and company on the aft deck on level 6.

Day 7
Thursday 27 July
Ashmore Reef

Our morning was spent preparing for our visit to Australia's most remote marine park, Ashmore Reef. Niall gave a highlights lecture on some of the 100,000 birds that nest there and, after another lovely lunch, our Zodiac adventures around Ashmore Reef had officially begun.

We were greeted by a sky full of birds which were either taking flight, diving into the water chasing fish, collecting materials to build their nests or just bobbing on the water's surface. Lesser Frigatebirds had some of the most conspicuous nests with large chicks not far off from fledging. Crested and Sooty Terns curiously inspected our Zodiacs, flying low enough for us to have a close look back at them. Masked, Red-footed and Brown Boobies filled the sky, with some resting on a nearly moored fishing boat while a few of their chicks patiently waited along the shore for their next meal. Immature Sooty Terns impressed us with their spotted plumage that resembled the patterns seen on Whale Sharks. A new species record for Ashmore Island was also noted once Niall spotted the vagrant Cinnamon Bittern.

Our cruise around Ashmore Reef was expanded with a snorkelling session for those excited to enjoy the life below the water. Giant Clams and Green Turtles were highlights among the colourful and diverse corals.

Day 8
Friday 28 July
Swift Bay

This morning, in preparation for our landing at Swift Bay, Steve shared a lecture on the Kimberley's involvement during World War II. Shirley also shared a presentation on the evolution of Heritage Expeditions and how Heritage Adventurer came to be.

We arrived on a rising tide to Swift Bay in the afternoon and enjoyed a safe ascent over some slippery rocks. Some of our affectionately named 'Mudskippers' walking group proved to be 'Rock Wallabies' as they climbed over the rocks to two unique rock art sites. The first art site featured Wandjina artwork featuring Wandjina spirits and a line-up of five Oystercatchers under a rock overhang. Underneath these amazing rock paintings were endless piles of shell middens, composed of cockles and clams, which made us reflect on the people who had been here in the past to eat and share stories.

The second art site features the older Gwion Gwion artwork which we accessed by going through a narrow rock ledge along the mangroves. Our 'Rock Wallabies' hiking group swiftly made it up to this site and some ventured further into the adjacent cave. Within the darkest depths of this cave, Jessa and Allie found Trap-jaw Ants, crickets, and a lovely large black tarantula as we enjoyed the afternoon admiring the artwork.

Day 9
Saturday 29 July
Vansittart Bay & Jar Island

The day started a bit cool with plenty of cloud cover in the sky, rather than the usual bluebird sunshine morning, but true to form here in the Kimberley things heated up quickly by the time we arrived onshore. Our morning excursion was a visit into the World War II history found at the northern end of Australia at Vansittart Bay.

Up and over a short sandbank, we overlooked a vast expanse of mudflats which we would be traversing. The tide had long since dropped leaving the mudflats dry and crumbly underfoot. Our guides ambled along with us as we explored the myriad Elegant Fiddler Crab holes, and piles of their feeding evidence. Much to our delight we saw many small Mudskippers along a shallow trickle of water snaking along one side of the flats. They sat motionless for our photographs, or played hide and seek from their nesting burrows as we tried to point them out quickly enough to each other. We came across wild cattle tracks, Straw-necked Ibis, Blue-winged Kookaburra, a Red-tailed Black Cockatoo, Triggerplants, Green Ants in their nests, termite mounds, a boab tree, and many other flora and fauna nearly overshadowing the main attraction of the site: A Douglas C-53 Skytrooper (DC-3) plane wreck laying in the forest just beyond the mudflats. We learned of the story involving its crash, the survival of its crew on board, and its connection to the war.

Once we were back on board Heritage Adventurer it was a leisurely afternoon for a post-lunch siesta while the ship made a short reposition to our afternoon destination. Jar Island's main attraction is a chance to see more Gwion Gwion rock art and, after a short walk along the sandy beach and some sandstone pathways, we had two different opportunities to see rock art roughly 12,000 years old or more. As our guides explained the differences between this style and the Wandjina style we had seen at other sites, it invoked great discussion and thoughtful observations from each of us. As we neared sunset, we made it back to the sandy beach only to be greeted by members of the hotel department serving up sunset cocktails and mocktails.

What a fabulous way to end a full and engaging day, not to mention the soft Kimberley skies at sunset. Another fun and successful day had by all!

Day 10
Sunday 30 July
King George Falls

An early morning wake-up call had us loading into our Zodiacs so we could watch the sunrise make the sandstone cliffs glow red along the King George River. Our visit today showed us just why King George earns its reputation of being one of the most spectacular river systems on the planet. The King George River Gorge is made up of Warton Sandstone dating back over 1.8 billion years, and is prone to weathering evident by the tafoni present and the cliff toe exposing beautiful variation in the sandstone's colour.

The scorched red, stone-stacked walls towered over us on either side as we made the 13 kilometre voyage up the river until we were met by twin waterfalls that cascade 80 metres down ancient cliffs. While on one side the falling water had retreated to a trickle, the other side still thundered with the overflow from the wet season. Peels of laughter and delight bounced off the gorge walls as those looking to cool down piled into the Zodiacs which entered the falls' splash zone for an unforgettable, refreshing experience.

We encountered a Rock-wallaby, crocodile, a Darter and a Peregrine Falcon which was seen chasing a Sea Eagle.

Koolama Bay, where Heritage Adventurer had anchored, was rich in history as was covered by Steve in his afternoon lecture.

The day proved to be action-packed the whole way through, and by the time we returned it was time to celebrate our adventures with a final dinner and drinks at the bar, coupled with an amazing slideshow by our on board photographers to relive the excitement, all together making for the perfect finish to our adventures here at the Kimberley.

Day 11
Monday 31 July
Darwin

We woke to find Heritage Adventurer had arrived at Australia's 'northern gateway' Darwin Port, famous for its glittering harbour, World War II history and enviable tropical outdoor lifestyle. We enjoyed one last breakfast together and exchanged details to keep in touch with our new friends before our bags were readied to be checked out and we were on our way for more adventures ahead.