HA230614: Asian Island Odyssey: Exploring the Remote Tropical Islands of Japan, Philippines and Indonesia

ASIAN ISLAND ODYSSEY

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

14 June - 11 July 2023

Day 1
Wednesday, 14 June
Osaka

We meet, excited travellers from around the globe at the Hilton Osaka where we will spend the first night. Welcomed by our Expedition Leader, Nathan, and some of the Expedition Team we enjoy an evening meal together as we get to know each other and discover common interests and followed by an evening of leisure and dreams of our upcoming Asian Island Odyssey voyage.

Day 2
Thursday, 15 June
Osaka and At Sea

Following breakfast at the hotel, we set off on the first adventure of our expedition. Travelling by coach through the busy streets, we learn Osaka is the third largest city in Japan and one of the busiest. However, it was only a short ride until we were in another world walking through a quaint old street through to the lushly forested slopes of Minoh Park. For most of us, a 40 minute stroll through a beautiful green valley beside a tumbling stream brought us to a spectacular waterfall over 30 metres high. Then it was time for a rest in the cool, clean air and taking some photos of the falls before heading back downhill. Others chose to visit the nearby Minoh Park Insectarium full of fascinating entomological displays and an enclosure of beautiful butterflies.

Then it was back into the heart of the city to visit Osaka Castle, rising majestically out of a large, wooded park. Originally built in 1586, it had been destroyed by battle and fire several times until finally being restored to its current state in 1931. From the top floor we had a panoramic view over the park and across the city, while on the floors below there were fascinating displays which told the story of the castle and its significance in Japanese history. This included an exquisitely detailed screen which depicted the Summer War of 1615, when a fierce battle saw the reigning Toyotami family defeated by the rival Tokugawa clan.

We made our way to the port and enjoyed our first glimpse of our new home, Heritage Adventurer. She is a beautiful ship and, as we checked in and were taken to our cabins, we discover she is just as beautiful and luxurious on the inside too. Greeted by the Expedition Staff and shown to the dining room for our first taste of the gourmet cuisine and excellent service. Both are first rate.

As our departure time was later in the evening, most of us opted for the optional short walk to the aquarium where we found huge tanks of exotic marine creatures. We were soon back aboard for the mandatory lifeboat drill. Our first briefing was in progress as we left the dock. It was an introduction to the vessel by the Hotel Manager, Sergiu; an introduction to the plans for the voyage by Expedition Leader, Nathan; a brief personal introduction from each member of our Expedition Team; and a look ahead at Takamatsu by Rod.

Having become familiar with the bar and lounge, along with another chance to get to know one another, we returned to the dining room for our first dinner. The menu had so many choices. We picked our favourites, and a wine to match, with conversations continuing well into the evening. What a superb start to our voyage.

Day 3
Friday, 16 June
Takamatsu

Our day started as Heritage Adventurer sailed into the port city of Takamatsu, on the island of Shikoku, in the early morning light. Once ashore we enjoyed a gentle stroll through the famous Ritsurin Garden. It was created over 400 years ago as a series of ponds, landscaped hills and rockeries, with manicured trees and other plants, all set against the backdrop of forested Mount Shiun-zan. It was designed for the pleasure of the Daimyo, or feudal lord, of the time and remains enchanting to the present day. A series of deliberately located viewpoints gave us excellent opportunities to stop, admire and photograph this sublimely fashioned landscape.

At our next stop the plants themselves had been fashioned into art. It was Kinashi, the main Bonsai production centre of Japan. Here, on a farm handed down through five generations, we were able to marvel at the exquisitely miniaturised trees and learn about the sophisticated techniques used to create them. The most beautiful and valuable specimens had taken many decades to grow, showing the great passion, patience, and dedication required to be a Bonsai master. While some returned to Heritage Adventurer for lunch, others stayed in town to enjoy some local cuisine, especially the Udon noodles that Takamatsu is renowned for.

The afternoon began with a tour of the Shikoku Mura Museum, a fascinating collection of traditional houses and industrial buildings that had been rescued from all over the region and reassembled here on a forested hillside. It gave us an insight into countryside living in the 18th, 19th and early 20th Centuries, including soy and paper making, sugar cane pressing, family houses, a lighthouse and series of lighthouse keepers' cottages. Our coach then climbed up through wooded hills to Yashima-ji Temple, one of Shikoku's major pilgrimage sites. Entering through a large red Torii Gate, we found ourselves in a quiet courtyard with multiple temple buildings. At the main temple, a small group of pilgrims had assembled to chant prayers, adding to the wonderful atmosphere of reverence and tranquillity. Walking a little further we arrived to a spectacular viewpoint and, in the warm afternoon sun, looked out over the city and harbour of Takamatsu to the waters of the Inland Sea and the misty islands beyond.

As we arrived back at Heritage Adventurer, girls from the local high school entertained us with a truly impressive display of giant calligraphy on the quayside. The evening gathering in the lounge started with the Captain's Welcome Cocktail Party and the introduction of the heads of all our ship's departments. A Zodiac briefing prepared us to be safe as we use the boats for the first time tomorrow for the transfer to Miyajima Island. The chef and his team excelled for the Captain's Welcome Dinner with a few extra courses and options. After dinner it was Happy Hour for the folding of origami paper cranes in preparation for our visit to Hiroshima where they would be offered in memory of victims of war. So much to take in and reflect on at the end of such a full and stimulating day on our adventure through the islands of Japan.

Day 4
Saturday, 17 June
Hiroshima and Miyajima

The journey from Heritage Adventurer to Hiroshima's Peace Memorial Park and Museum showed the city to be modern, busy, and pleasant as we followed wide rivers on wide boulevards to reach our destination.

The museum is intentionally confronting - showing the horror inflicted on the people of Hiroshima and warnings of the dangers of atomic weapons. At the Peace Park, a cenotaph was placed to commemorate the lives lost as a result of the blast: 40,000 in the first instance, another 100,000 in the following months, and a total of over 220,000 by the end. The walk along the Reflection Pool and Eternal Flame brought us to the memorial to Sadako Sasaki - a young girl who started the campaign to fold origami cranes as a totem of peace. Hiroshima receives more than 10 million cranes per year, including our contribution. Our walk continued to the Atomic Bomb Dome. The building, being very close to where the bomb exploded on August 6, 1945, had been left as a visible reminder of that terrible day.

After a sombre morning it was nice to have a light afternoon. We landed by Zodiac on Miyajima Island to visit Itsukushima Shrine and the other shrines, temples, and entertainment opportunities that shared the island. The tide was just coming in through the famous 'floating' Torii Gate as we arrived. From there we roamed at our own pace to visit the shrine, Daishoin Temple with 500 small statues of Jizo, the Five-Storied Pagoda, restaurants, shops, and more. The local coffee ice cream was a crowd favourite - just watch out for the deer! This was a sacred place, but the steady flow of happy families made it an enjoyable place too.

After a day full of photo opportunities, it was timely that Fiona helped us do better with the camera in our phones in her Introduction to Smartphone Photography. Dinner remained a good time to spoil our taste buds and, in the spirit of more-is-better, Happy Hour returned after dinner with Thijs giving us a Welcome to Japan presentation. Sleep came quickly and deeply soon after to end a very active day.

Day 5
Sunday, 18 June
Uwajima

Today we were back on the island of Shikoku, but now on the far western end at the port of Uwajima, set inside a deep bay surrounded by green hills. Famous for being the largest centre of pearl cultivation in Japan, our first visit of the morning was to a family run pearl farm. We were treated to a detailed demonstration of how one-year-old oysters are prepared to grow cultured pearls. In a delicate surgical procedure, a tiny fragment of mantle from another oyster was inserted along with a round nucleus, around which the cultured pearl would form. The oysters were then left to grow for another year, on racks hanging in the sea, before the pearls would be harvested. As the owner of the farm pulled some oysters from the water and opened them up for us we were astonished to see, right before our eyes, shiny new pearls emerge. How amazing! Our visit concluded with a visit to the shop to view the dazzling pearl jewellery that had been created.

Apart from pearl farming and fishing, the other mainstay of the rural economy was growing potatoes and other crops. Because of the steep hills, which rose almost straight out of the sea, they were grown on impressive steep stone-built terraces which we explored on foot. We learnt that because of a declining rural population there was now insufficient labour to grow more than one crop of potatoes each year, instead of the three that are possible. Having enjoyed views of the beautiful bay from the top of the terraces we descended to a café on the quayside. Here, delicious local potatoes had been prepared for us to sample, and washed down with some fiery but smooth tasting potato spirit - the perfect accompaniment!

After a brief spell back on board for lunch, we climbed a large hill in town to explore Uwajima Castle. Surrounded by high stone walls, it was built by the local feudal lord in 1601 to ward off enemies during the Samurai period. Originally it had been constructed on the seashore but as new land was required for reclamation it was moved to its present position overlooking the city. Steep wooden steps led us up through the tower to the top floor where we enjoyed panoramic views of Uwajima city and the forested hills surrounding it.

Our final visit of the day was a brief stop at Tenshaen Gardens, which had originally been created for the enjoyment of the 7th feudal lord of Uwajima during his retirement. Near the entrance was a lovely iris garden, while deeper in a large pond was surrounded by trees, ferns and other plants, giving the manicured landscape a feeling of tranquillity.

Once back on board we were treated to lectures on the Floral Zones of Japan by Moshe and Japanese History by John, before another delicious dinner.

Day 6
Monday, 19 June
Yakushima Island

Overnight we made our first foray out of the Inland Sea and into the open ocean. The motion of the ocean was slightly increased but, for most, it was like rocking in the cradle and we slept soundly. Yakushima is the rainiest place in Japan, so it was no surprise that the island's hills were hidden in the mist as we entered the port. Still, it was no more than a light to moderate drizzle as we made our way around the rugged coast and then up into the mountains to Yakusugi Land. Yakushima was granted UNESCO World Heritage status primarily due to its huge biodiversity including thousands of different plants, insects, and several mammals, many of which are endemic, in the island's climate zones. For all this, it was the impressive and ancient Sugi trees (Cryptomeria japonica - and remember that our botanist, Moshe, would be appalled if you called them Japanese Cedar) that featured most.

Our morning walk was through the dripping forest of Sugi, along a well-constructed walkway, with many steps taking us down to the creekside and up and over ridges. Everywhere we looked we saw evidence of past logging to make roof shingles. But, likewise, everywhere was also the evidence of recovery from the logging. The Sugi themselves, and the mossy, ferny undergrowth, glistened in the wet. The ride down was interrupted by troops of endemic Macaques warming themselves, and grooming each other, on the roadside. It was remarkable how little attention they paid to us. We made a stop at the excellent and informative Yakusugi Museum on our way back to Heritage Adventurer for a nice surprise lunch that featured a ramen station.

As we dined, the sun emerged and we had warm clear skies for the afternoon. This gave us extra choices on what to do next. Either stay aboard and enjoy a relaxing time by the pool, or walk into town, or travel back into the hills to the Shiratani-unsuikyo Ravine for a hike. Those who chose the walk were treated to a much different environment from the morning. The Sugi were still there with wet moss and ferns covered in raindrops, but the rushing stream with many large rapids and cascades over the granite boulders, and crossed by many bridges, added another dimension.

Before we weighed anchor we received a top notch farewell performance from a local schoolgirl brass band. Then Karen and Neil gave us their impressions of Japan: Nature and Culture. As always, the lounge was lively as we reviewed our adventures of the day and prepared for the next - including notice of a very early start. We continued to be spoiled with great food and service while the sea remained gentle before it was time to retire early in preparation for the morning.

Day 7
Tuesday, 20 June
Amami Island

Our second night at sea was as gentle as the first, which was well and good because we had a shortened sleep before our earliest start of the voyage. We quickly learned that travel on Amami was on narrow roads, sometimes with open cityscapes or seascapes, but often in tunnels. We passed through green tunnels of dense forest cover and through numerous concrete tunnels under the mountainous landscape.

We arrived at the Amami Nature Observation Forest early to have the best chance of finding wildlife during the active morning hours. The call of the Ryukyu Robin told us that they were around, but they remained hidden. Our local guides Tsuneda and John were very valuable knowing where to look for all the best amphibian encounters. We spotted Sword-tail Newts both male and female, along with giant frogs in the very clean pond, and plenty of tadpoles or maybe newt-poles which was a welcomed insight to the healthy ecosystem. We meandered our way through the tracks spotting spider webs covered in dew and epiphyte orchids flowering high up in the trees. Treading lightly, we took photographs with long lasting memories of the hazy mist, damp underfoot, and the smell of the bush as it came alive with the rain.

Residents at the Oshima Tsumugi Kimono Village have been creating fine silk kimonos for more than 1300 years. We were fortunate to watch the dyeing process as skilled workers manipulated the fabric within the iron rich muddy rice paddy. The fabric was then unwoven to create a thread for the warp and weft of the fabric. We were able to watch the ladies' hard at work by their looms, creating 7 centimetres of fabric per hour, as they meticulously aligned the warp and weft strands to create the desired pattern. In the past the kimono was believed to protect the wearer's soul with a supernatural power. Even with these enticements, we resisted. The shop was filled with silk pieces of varying designs. After marvelling at such history, art and beauty, it was back to nature with a walk on Ose Beach. We split into 2 parties - some went bird watching and fossicking in the tidepools while others chose to refresh themselves with a quick dip in the warm sea and even a beer.

After lunch aboard, we visited Kuroshio-no-Mori Mangrove Park and the Amami-Oshima World Heritage Center. The mangrove forests served as a critical habitat for many species enabling us to spot Mudskippers, Soldier Crabs, and more. We had warm rain with occasional thunder during our visit but, luckily, we were all prepared with either umbrellas, raincoats, or just prepared to enjoy the warm and wet sandy mud.

The ever-generous hospitality teams had been busy while we were away. Our return to Heritage Adventurer was met with ice cream being served on the aft deck as another lively music and dance performance from the dock bid us farewell. Moshe then continued our education with his talk on Mangroves - How Do They Survive in the Salty Sea? We had been up early, so it was nice that the lounge sessions and dinner were pushed forward a bit. We enjoyed them, and dinner, as always and a few even made it to Happy Hour.

Day 8
Wednesday, 21 June
Okinawa

We passed through a storm overnight, so our arrival at Okinawa provided heat and humidity but no rain. The morning excursion began with a visit to Shuri Castle, which was reconstructed after being levelled during the Battle of Okinawa. We knew that the impressive limestone walls were not original, but they were impressive nonetheless. Despite the fact that the main building is still under construction after a fire in 2019, we enjoyed the view over the city and marvelled at the ability to build such a structure in the 14th Century. From there we had something completely different - a walk through the caves and along the river through subtropical forest at the Valley of Gangala. Our local guide, and Moshe, kept us well informed as we encountered a variety of plant species. The explanation of human remains found in the cave showed how people have migrated from other parts the globe.

From there things became even more interesting. We had options to visit the Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters, the Mashiki Market, or both, and to have lunch in the market or back aboard. Add in coach and taxi logistics, sometimes with guides and sometimes on our own, we made the most of our opportunities. The former headquarters, now museum, is housed in tunnels dug by the Japanese Navy to support their last defence. It was here where the high command took their own life, and where more than 1,000 remains were collected during re-opening. Most of all it was a monument to the suffering of the 120,000 Okinawans who lost their lives in battle - more than a third of the population. The market was lively and interesting, and those that stayed on for lunch were well satisfied - as were those that returned to Heritage Adventurer.

The Pool Bar opened after lunch, and shortly after departure Courtney and Fi prepared us for fish spotting and underwater photography as we were briefed on snorkelling operations and issued our gear. Practice in the pool was a useful option for first-timers. John continued our education and understanding of Religion in Japan. As always, plenty of chatter at recap and dinner. Neil and Karen made the Happy Hour drinks an entertaining event by showing us how to improve our Creative Photography.

Day 9
Thursday, 22 June
Miyakojima

As the shuttle bus dropped us at the cruise terminal our welcoming committee commented that it was going to be a hot day, and if it was hot for the locals then we knew we were in for some sweat. Pity for the poor person bouncing up-and-down in the foam-covered mascot costume. The journey to Ikema Island past sugar cane and white sand beaches re-enforced the knowledge that we were heading to the tropics and leaving Japan behind.

The walk into the wetlands was through dense bush including pandanus, hibiscus, and sugar cane fields. Many insects were busy, notably many butterflies and the Flutterer Dragonflies, while the nearby viewing platform gave us sightings of Purple Heron, Little Egret, Bridled Tern and diving ducks. From there we stopped to admire the view of the bridge connecting Ikema Island to the main island - the azure blue water set it off beautifully. The Miyakojima Marine Park allowed us to descend below sea level and use special windows to view the fish with our clothes on. Great fun!

We made our way to the south coast of Miyakojima to visit the Ingya Marine Garden. This was a place with something for everyone. A group set off to the trails with our naturalists Moshe and Rod where they summited the small hill to get a full panorama of the coral-filled bay. Others paddled out into the sheltered bay, or beyond, for a swim. Most opted to try out our snorkels. From the beach the warm shallow water welcomed us. With optional extra flotation for beginners, or access under the bridge into the outer bay for the more experienced, we all had fun. The fish and the coral were easily found, and one lucky group were able to observe a friendly turtle as it swam along the limestone cliffs.

Back to the cruise terminal we had our passports checked as we exited Japan. Sadly this meant saying goodbye to Roy-san, The Best Guide In Japan. He had been a wonderful contributor to our group and our voyage, and will be missed. Nonetheless, we carried on. A cool beverage went down nicely at lunch, then Courtney showed some images taken earlier at Ingya Beach and explained aspects of marine symbiosis in her talk Relationships on the Reef. Ever vigilant that we not die of thirst or hunger, the hospitality team had the bar opened and afternoon tea served as we did the online paperwork to prepare ahead of time for our arrival to The Philippines.

At the briefing, Tropical Gannet were feeding around the ship and we learned that we would get one extra hour sleep overnight due to changing to Taiwan time. The precap prepared us for our first day in Taiwan at Keelung. Dinner and Happy Hour completed another fabulous day on this wonderful adventure.

Day 10
Friday, 23 June
Taipei, Taiwan

We cleared immigration and customs into Taiwan and were met by a contingent of drummers, swanky coaches, and our local guides. First stop was a shop and factory for pineapple cakes. We were each given dough, pineapple jam, a mould and instructions. In no time our kitten cakes were in the oven and we were in the shop sampling the varieties available. Ten minutes later we were trying to find and sample our own creations. Warm handmade pineapple cakes - a yummy way to stay the excursion.

Our stop at the large and impressive Martyrs' Shrine was touching as we arrived just in time for the changing of the guard. Their precision and dignified manoeuvres made clear the respect in which the dead are held. Then something completely different as we trundled off to the riverside to watch a couple of heats of the Dragon Boat Festival. We happened to be in Taipei for the holiday that marks these races. It was very clear that real effort and skill were required to make these large heavy boats go. We might stick to our Zodiacs.

We had a sumptuous nine-course lunch at a very stylish restaurant on the grounds of the National Palace Museum which held three floors full of amazing treasures. We picked our favourites from the jade, books, bronze, paintings, porcelain and more. So many truly beautiful works of art and antiquity. Then another transition to something completely different as we stopped at the Taipei 101 high-rise tower. The downpour made our approach a bit tricky, but we all managed it. Some chose to visit the 89^th floor Observatory while the rest window shopped in the up-scale arcade. So many modern treasures on display with names like Tiffany, Gucci, Dior, De Beers, and all the other luxury brands.

Having returned to Heritage Adventurer, some stayed to relax on board, but a hearty contingent made the 15-minute walk to the Keelung Miaokou Night Market to experience a full-on sensory assault in the press of the huge crowd. It was a great opportunity to sample the remarkable assortment of exotic treats; and to enjoy a bit of people watching. A yummy way to end an altogether yummy day.

Day 11
Saturday, 24 June
Hualien, Taiwan

Our arrival dockside was greeted with singing and dancing, then it was through the terminal to reconnect with our guides from Taipei who had travelled south by train. Their claim that Taiwan was the most mountainous island on earth was supported by the view to the west where huge peaks followed us on our journey north. We turned west into Taroko National Park where we learned the story of its construction in the late 1950s by thousands of labourers. It was virtually hand-hewn out of the marble cliffs. Walking through Swallow Grotto Trail and the Tunnel of Nine Turns Trail gave us some appreciation for their efforts. More than that, it gave us stunning views up and down the canyons. The gorges were remarkable for their rugged natural beauty, and complemented by the dramatic tunnels. During the road construction 226 men lost their lives. Our last stop in the park was at a shrine to their memory - Changchun Shrine, also known as the Eternal Spring Shrine. There, a huge natural spring roared out of the hillside, into a river and past three golden images of Buddha.

For lunch, a restaurant ran by indigenous people was chosen. It was a great choice with many unusual and tasty dishes including sticky rice in a bamboo container that required smashing the bamboo on the rocks to get the rice. There was a whole grilled fish, spicy peppers, deep fried tofu, greens in fish sauce, and more. The restaurant also served as a factory and shop for weaving and wood carving.

We rode back into town and stopped at the beach at Qixingtan Scenic Area. The locals were out in numbers on this holiday weekend - walking, shopping, eating ice cream and building stone towers on the gravelly beach, so we joined in. The hospitality team must have missed us because, as usual, we came aboard to be greeted with cool towels and iced tea. Aren't we spoiled? Another very full outing came to a close as we cleared immigration out of Taiwan, set course for the Philippines, and enjoyed afternoon tea in the lounge. What a remarkable two days of contrasts in Taiwan we have had.

As always, there was more to come. Moshe helped us to understand A Journey Between Two Worlds - The Origin and Distribution of Tropical Edible Plants. Later we had our recap and precap, including Sarah on Taiwanese bubble tea, and we chatted over dinner about the adventure. Happy Hour finished the day for those who were not already dreaming about tomorrow.

Day 12
Sunday, 25 June
Batan Island, Philippines

Arriving at Batan Island in the late morning meant we could enjoy a sleep-in and leisurely breakfast. The Philippine officials were aboard, so we were able to pass our health check and complete the remaining formalities in the bistro. The lounge was our next stop for Karen and Neil's presentation on The Ring of Fire. An early lunch on arrival meant that we were ready for the next chapter of our expedition at midday.

We then boarded into our Zodiacs for the transfer to Basco Port. From there we transferred onto a caravan of minivans which followed a concrete ribbon of road along seaside cliffs, past falling rock warnings, up twisty hills, down steep hills, and around countless hairpin bends - all while getting great views of the lush green hills.

Everywhere we went was delightful. Batan's Basco Lighthouse was clean and cheerful with a great view of our trusty Heritage Adventurer in the deepest of deep blue seas. Our adventures through the Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel was followed by time spent admiring breadfruit trees and a nearby Asian Water Buffalo. We then navigated through the traditional thatched cottages of a nearby fishing village to see the local fisherman using a cast net, and colourful boats, for their daily catch.

The next stop was the refreshment stand at the ridgeline with the four 'Gorgeous Girls' in the 'G' tops serving cool drinks and snacks while we wandered out among the cows to enjoy the view. The walk through the village of fortified stone houses showed that some of them were derelict, but it also showed the gardens and home lives of the residents - and the children were, you guessed it, delightful!

We were then surprised with two options for our time - to go for a swim or go for a walk in Basco Port. Those of us who chose to swim descended into a rocky cove to cool off, while the rest of us found the port to be decorated in preparation for the Batanes Day celebration to be celebrated the following day.

Soon after we were back at sea in our Zodiacs, and it was good to get a taste of the tropical pleasures to come - especially for those continuing past Manila. Our briefing back at Heritage Adventurer showed us what to expect next, and dinner was delightful as always!

Day 13
Monday, 26 June
Vigan

When our Expedition Leader Nathan told us at our introduction that we were going to need a holiday when we returned home from our expedition, he might have had today in mind. After breakfast we rode our Zodiacs across a glassy sea to Currimao Port - over there behind the tugboat. Then it was over the bow box with the sailor's grip, and onto the dock for a greeting of local music and dancers with paddles, fish and cooking pots.

The Basilica of John the Baptist was quite a change from the Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples of Japan and Taiwan. We were able to get right up and around the beautiful and extravagant altar. At the Luna House we learned of the two brothers who were key figures in Philippine art and revolution.

We then visited a local furniture factory that was all chainsaws and sawdust on the outside, and smooth finished furniture in the showroom with rocking recliners that were a hit. Walking past the three stories of school children hanging out the windows to wave to us was also good fun.

At the Pagburnayan Pottery Factory we lucked into being there on the one day every two months when they run the kiln. We were kept plenty busy admiring the skills of the potters at their wheels and their wonderful products kept in the storeroom.

We then ventured to The Hidden Garden Restaurant for cooking lessons, dancing lessons, and excellent local food - not to mention a lovely garden. It was a pleasant, fun, shady, tasty, entertaining interlude to our day. Horse-drawn carriages gave us an opportunity to tour through the streets full of scooters and sidecars on our way to the museum. In this modern, stylish and informative museum we were presented with the long and varied history of how the city's architecture had been influenced by history and climate.

Our arrival at the preserved colonial district of Calle Crisologo overlapped with the rainy season showing us that it often rains in the afternoon. Always prepared, we had our umbrellas, raincoats, and selection of cafes and shops to keep dry and get a good view of this amazing area. A police escort sped our return to the Heritage Adventurer for a quick change and shower. We then gathered in the lounge for a preview of the corals and 100+ islands that awaited the next day. It was hard to imagine that we were headed into the last full day of the voyage, and we were excited to make the most of it.

Day 14
Tuesday, 27 June
Hundred Islands National Park

Our run of hot, humid, windless days continued as our Zodiacs made their way to the landing beach on Quezon Island in the Hundred Islands National Park. Here we received a very energetic song and dance welcome on the beach. Colourful outrigger motor boats provided our transport around the park's many islands, with a local guide to help us interpret this incredible new world. The cruise took us very close to many of the limestone islands - often mushroom shaped by the sea, and sometimes with caves. The bird life was in evidence including Grey and White Herons and Terns.

First we visited Pilgrimage Island to climb the 185 steps to the base of Christ the Saviour, a giant statue of Jesus, and enjoyed the view. We then arrived at Mayor's Island for a chance to swim and snorkel. The water was just the perfect temperature, the beach was sandy and gentle, and those who went snorkelling saw a variety of corals and reef fish. Our final stop at the Giant Clam Garden was the best snorkelling of the visit, featuring some striking blue staghorn coral and a large number of giant clams. The clams were indeed huge and dappled with lovely colourful spots along their openings.

Our lunch was well-earned, and then we had the rest of the day aboard to enjoy whatever activity took our fancy. Some of us attended Rob's presentation on The Vanishing Treasures of the Philippine Rainforest, while others visited the Pool Bar for a swim and a beverage. Some gathered in the Observation Lounge for some reading or a game; and the rest of us took the relaxing opportunity for a snooze in the afternoon.

Nathan shared the incredible history of his family business with Heritage Expeditions: The Story so Far and tempted us with the wide variety of destinations on offer. A bit later in the evening we joined together in the lounge for the Captain's Farewell Cocktails and a review of the expedition for those departing tomorrow, with a viewing of our slide show. It was fantastic to view all that we have seen and experienced in such a short time. Smiles all round. The Captain's Farewell Dinner excelled the normal excellent fare and service as we carried on well into the evening.

Then it was a quick pack of the bags for those leaving the ship, a chance to think about Manila for those travelling back to back on Undiscovered Philippines & Indonesia, and a Happy Hour drink for all.

Day 15
Wednesday, 28 June
Manila

It was an exciting day of exploring the fascinating history of Manila, capital city of the Philippines with new travellers joining us on Undiscovered Philippines and Indonesia. It began with a short walk through beautiful Rizal Park to the José Rizal Monument commemorating Philippines' foremost national hero, whose writing inspired the uprising against Spanish colonial rule at the end of the 19^th Century. Rizal was executed by the colonial authorities.

Travelling by comfortable coach it was a brief ride to our next destination at Fort Santiago, an impressive stone fort built by the Spanish in the 1590s as the military headquarters for their new colony. It was used much later, in the 20^th Century, by both the Americans and then the Japanese for the same purpose. From here we had an excellent view over the Pasig River to Chinatown and beyond, now a prosperous business area with towering buildings.

Fort Santiago was set within the old walled city of Intramuros, again built by the Spanish. We learnt how this was largely destroyed in World War II in the battle to defeat the Japanese in Manila, but much has since been renovated or rebuilt in a massive restoration project by the city authorities. In all the fighting, only one significant building remained intact - San Augustin Church, the oldest in Manila, built by the Augustinians in about 1600. We visited the church and also the fascinating museum next door in the old monastery. We also enjoyed a moment to take in the atmosphere in Manila Cathedral where a wedding was being celebrated, we then enjoyed a delicious lunch at Guevara's restaurant owned by the famous Filipino chef Laudico.

After a tasty meal we toured two small museums nearby, one of which housed the ancient underground water supply of Manila. The other focused on the Philippines Katipunan Revolution, which started the fight for independence from Spain in the late 19^th Century. Then it was a short visit to the luxury Manila Hotel, the city's most historic, to appreciate its architecture and lavish foyer before arriving at Heritage Adventurer docked in the port of Manila.

Here we were entertained by an enthusiastic group of dancers on the wharf to send us on our journey. After a fine day of weather while exploring the city, we set sail across Manila Bay through a dramatic thunderstorm and lightning display. Our adventure to the far-flung islands of the Philippines and Indonesia had begun!

Day 16
Thursday, 29 June
Sibuyan

As we sailed towards Sibuyan our morning was taken up by briefings about Zodiac procedures and snorkelling.

Our skills were put to good use soon after as we finished our early lunch and boarded the Zodiacs for our first adventure, towards the towering forest-covered island of Sibuyan. A slight swell made for a lively landing onto a rocky beach - but we were well prepared and safely made it ashore.

We then boarded small minibuses and were given two options for exploring Sibuyan. Some of us headed off on a walk to explore a nearby a waterfall, while the rest of us were treated to a weaving demonstration using local forest materials. Most striking were the miniature tricycles being fashioned from rattan, a type of palm plant. The weaving was done in front of an old stone building, now smothered by large strangler figs, a reminder of how prolific the vegetation was in this tropical climate.

A short ride then took us to the start of a gentle stroll along a country road, between gardens and rice paddies. It was the planting season so the fields were being prepared, some by ploughs pulled by water buffalo, others by small mechanical ploughs. Flowers, butterflies and some birds kept the photographers busy and eventually we reached a beach with colourful fishing canoes.

Then it was on to view a large river tumbling down from the steep, forest clad mountains, claimed to be the 'cleanest water in the Philippines'.

The other option for the afternoon was a visit to Dagubdob Falls, arguably one of Sibuyan's most beautiful natural wonders. The waterfalls had a rich history dating back to the Spanish colonial era. It came as no surprise that it was once a favourite bathing spot for the Spanish soldiers stationed on Sibuyan Island and remains a popular destination for both locals and tourists alike.

It was a roughly 30 minute walk through lush greenery and crossing three shallow rivers to reach the falls. As the forest opened up, we were greeted by the sight of the waterfall and its fresh crystal clear waters that beckoned we jump in, cool down, and enjoy the tranquil natural surroundings.

Our local guides also had a surprise for us, offering locally made fruit salads and smoothies to enjoy in the natural pool, before we made our way back to Heritage Adventurer.

Later in the afternoon, after Heritage Adventurer had repositioned, we set off in our Zodiacs to explore the small coral island of Cresta de Gallo. We arrived at a sheltered sandy beach, with shallow water perfect for a swim. It was a relaxing end to the day and we stayed to enjoy the sun set.

Day 17
Friday, 30 June
Ticao

Today we found ourselves in paradise at Halea Nature Park on the island of San Miguel, just above Ticao island.

As we approached in our Zodiacs we watched the water turn from deep blue to a sparkling turquoise. The beach was made of fine, sugary white sand with a backdrop of swaying palm trees and, as we landed, we were greeted with a local dance performance and fresh drinking coconuts.

It was a fantastic day for snorkelling and exploring the island's house reef. Beneath the surface we were treated to an array of colourful coral and multiple fish species. A few highlights included a Yellow-lipped Sea Krait, bold Anemone Fish and a sweet little Pipefish.

However, the stars of the reef for many were the juvenile Blacktip Reef Sharks. The bay was believed to be a nursery ground for the sharks, and offered them a safe haven to grow up in until they were ready to venture into deeper waters on the outer reefs. We headed out in small groups with a local guide and floated quietly on the surface. With a little patience we were treated to some lovely sightings of these shy but beautiful sharks.

Some of us also took a walk up over the hill behind the bay, through old gardens and secondary forest, to a beach on the far side of the island. Overall it was a relaxing morning in a beautiful setting.

After returning to Heritage Adventurer for lunch, we enjoyed an Introduction to Photography from Fiona and Steve as well as a presentation on Vanishing Treasures of the Philippine Rainforest from Rod.

Day 18
Saturday, 1 July
Bohol

Heritage Adventurer arrived at Bohol on a fine, calm morning. A short Zodiac ride brought us to the small fishing port of Baclayan, with its picturesque Spanish colonial era church built from coral limestone, where we boarded comfortable coaches for our journey inland. Bohol was a lush green and characterful island and we stopped frequently for photos of the beautiful rural landscapes, until finally arriving at our first destination - the Chocolate Hills.

A long flight of steps brought us to a viewpoint that revealed a stunning panorama. Before us spanned hundreds of conical hills covered in grass and, in the dry season, would dry and turn brown hence the name. However, our visit was at the beginning of the wet season so the hills glowed with a green tinge in the morning sun, which was no less stunning. This land was formed from coral reefs below the sea millions of years ago and then later uplifted by great tectonic forces, and finally eroded into these extraordinary shapes by the action of water over many hundreds of thousands of years. It was a unique landscape and our viewpoint gave us the perfect vantage for some amazing photography and the odd selfie!

It was then a short ride to the Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary, which we entered with much excitement at the anticipation of seeing these tiny primates. Tarsiers are active at night and each morning return to the same place to rest during the day. With the help of the sanctuary guides we found them resting on low branches and, despite the dense vegetation and their diminutive size, we were able to get a good view of four different individuals. Occasionally, they would turn their heads and look at us with their huge eyes - a very special moment.

We returned to Heritage Adventurer for a brief lunch, then some of us spent the afternoon enjoying the beach and other facilities at the Bohol Beach Club. Others boarded two local boats for a half hour journey to the small coral island of Balicasag, one of the Philippines' top dive sites. Small canoes took us to the best spots for snorkelling where the reef was incredibly colourful and sloped down to a steep drop-off into the blue, where clouds of Anthias swarmed in the current. The highlight of the afternoon was watching the plentiful Green Sea Turtles, which fed and rested in the shallows. What a special place, and a fabulous end to a wonderful day of exploring on land and sea!

Day 19
Sunday, 2 July
Bucas Grande

During the morning we set out from Heritage Adventurer in our Zodiacs towards Sohoton Bay, an area of jungle-covered limestone that we planned to explore. At the tourist centre we donned life jackets and helmets and transferred into local outrigger canoes, each with a boatman and guide. Then it was off through the beautiful labyrinth of islands and channels. The area had been created in much the same way as the Chocolate Hills of Bohol: as a coral reef formed millions of years ago that had been uplifted above sea level, then eroded down into conical hills. The difference here was that the landscape had then been flooded as global sea levels rose at the end of the last Ice Age, so the rocky, jungle-covered hills rose out of the sea.

We soon realised why the helmets were required as we travelled through a low cave, ducking down in the canoe to avoid the stalactites, until we emerged into an enclosed marine lake, quiet and secluded. A Sea Eagle flew by and landed in a tall tree, giving us a great view of this magnificent bird.

We arrived into a small bay to glimpse the reason for our journey, floating just under the surface, jellyfish! Down into the water with our snorkels, we entered an alien looking world. Groups of white moon jellyfish pulsated in front of us, each about the size of a dinner plate. Among them were smaller golden jellyfish. This species lost its stinging tentacles and instead relies on millions of tiny algae living within their tissues to produce most of their food by photosynthesis. It was a fascinating experience, floating amongst the stingless jellies, in an amphitheatre of jungle-covered slopes.

Back out through the labyrinth of channels, we returned to the tourist centre to transfer into our Zodiacs for a cruise along the coast to a remote beach. While some of us snorkelled among the seagrass and coral, others went for a short walk through the forest. The path was rocky and we could still see the details of whole coral heads perfectly preserved. Eventually we came to a marine lake and were enclosed on all sides by steep forest-covered slopes into a hidden world.

Back at the beach some of us were lucky enough to spot a party of Hornbills flying overhead while we walked along the tideline and encountered a range of colourful seashells. Bucas Grande delivered on a wonderful variety of natural experiences during our visit.

Day 20
Monday, 3 July
At Sea

Today was spent at sea travelling between the Philippines and Indonesia. We enjoyed a panel of presentations on Tarsiers from Rod, Underwater Photography from Fiona, Turtles and Seagrass from Courtney and Sharks from Abam. Later in the morning Neil showed his film Oceans - Our Blue Planet for our entertainment.

After lunch Karen and Neil gave a presentation on Volcanoes, Earthquakes and the Ring of Fire followed by Thijs's Welcome to Indonesia.

After a relaxing day at sea, we were all looking forward to continuing our adventure tomorrow in wonderful Indonesia.

Day 21
Tuesday 4 July
Bitung and Tangkoko

We arrived in Indonesia during the early morning at the port city of Bitung on the island of Sulawesi and cleared customs and immigration, then headed into the port by Zodiac.

A short ride by minibus brought us to the main market, bustling and colourful, which sold fresh vegetables, dried fish, spices and other food. We were only the second international passenger vessel to visit Bitung this year, so our presence attracted a lot of attention and a warm welcome from the locals. As we took photos of the fascinating market scenes we found ourselves being enthusiastically photographed by stallholders and shoppers.

Then we took a brief stop at a souvenir shop and money changers where we also watched a demonstration of local cooking and sampled the delicious pastries and sweets being produced. This was followed by a visit to a Chinese temple where colourful dragons adorned the entrance while the atmospheric interior was crammed with mythological images, offerings and huge burning candles.

As we drove through the city streets we were treated as VIPs, with traffic bring directed by the local police to give us an unobstructed ride, until eventually we arrived at the palatial style mayor's office. The mayor of Bitung had invited us all to lunch! At the entrance, we were entertained by traditionally dressed dancers who greeted us with fierce facial expressions and waving swords. Then it was a generous buffet of local dishes with the mayor in his sumptuous dining room, before more dancing which we joined in to everyone's hilarity.

After lunch we drove through the countryside to Tangkoko Nature Reserve, a beautiful tropical rainforest by the sea. Walking through the forest we encountered the unusual Crested Black Macaques, with their distinctive faces and crests, unique to this part of northern Sulawesi. Large strangler fig trees were home to Spectral Tarsiers, tiny nocturnal primates, which many of us heard calling and were lucky enough to see. High in the canopy, several pairs of Sulawesi Bear Cuscus were spotted. These marsupials are evidence of Sulawesi's biological links to Australia as well as Asia. The park was also rich in endemic birds including Knobbed Hornbills seen at their nest high up a large tree. We also encountered a Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher, Green-backed Kingfisher, Cinnabar Boobook and Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker.

Late afternoon, we departed back to Heritage Adventurer from a beach of black volcanic sand after a day of very special cultural and natural experiences.

Day 22
Wednesday 5 July
Ternate

Arriving at the town quay at Ternate we were greeted by swimmers enjoying an early morning dip in the clear waters. Our bus transport for the day was provided by the local police, who drove us first to Fort Tolukko. The fort was built by the Portuguese in 1540 to help control the valuable trade in spices such as cloves from the island. Wandering around the fort, we were able to take in spectacular views of the town and across the water to a volcano on the neighbouring island of Tidore. Just below the fort were plantations of sago palms, one of the staple foods here.

We then headed to the Sultan of Ternate's Palace, where we were greeted with a traditional ceremony performed by the Sultan's staff in traditional dress, before being shown around. The impressive building was full of historical artefacts, including paintings of the previous Sultans and armour from the different settlers who wanted to control the trade in Ternate's spices.

The Sultans' deputy gave a welcome speech and we were offered a variety of Ternate dishes made from coconut cream, sago palm and other local ingredients, before being entertained by a dance group and a band playing traditional instruments. Our last stop was the Palace Museum where we took in exhibitions about the history of the Sultanate, including weapons, garments and an ornate horse drawn coach. As we departed the Palace the musicians played again and some of us joined in by trying to keep time with the music on the large gong.

Back at the town quay we were farewelled by friendly locals, keen for selfies with us and to practice their English skills, while groups of children in the water splashed around to attract our attention and have their photos taken. There were smiles all round as we departed in our Zodiacs for Heritage Adventurer.

During the afternoon Rod held a workshop on bird identification, to help us put names to the birds we'd seen so far, followed by a presentation from Neil on Indonesia - A Magical Mix of Wildlife.

Soon after 1800 we all gathered around the pool on Deck 7 as we approached 0° latitude. Graced with the presence of Neptune himself, at 1813 precisely we crossed the Equator. Neptune read out a proclamation welcoming us into his realm and then proceeded to inaugurate those who were crossing the equator at sea for the first time, anointing them with a snorkelling noodle before they leapt into the pool. Finally, we all toasted the crossing with a spicy cocktail. This wonderful day then ended with a perfect sunset over the sea.

Day 23
Thursday 6 July
Taliabu

During the morning Heritage Adventurer arrived off the small island of Seho, near Taliabu. We landed at a beautiful sandy beach backed by forested hills, an unspoilt paradise. While some of the group took a nature walk most chose to snorkel in the calm waters of the bay. Here we were treated to an amazing carpet of soft corals of many different colours waving in the gentle currents. A variety of hard corals and anemones also grew here, among a multitude of colourful fish and even a Banded Sea Snake. Back on the beach we enjoyed fresh drinking coconuts full of refreshing juice.

Back on board, we made our way to the township of Bobong on Taliabu, where we were greeted by what seemed to be the whole township. We were apparently the first foreign passenger ship ever to visit this place so we were a real curiosity to all the residents. We made our way onto various forms of transport including open trucks, mini buses and becaks, the local form of motorised rickshaw.

Our first stop were the local markets abundant in fresh produce, including ocean fish, spices and a variety of vegetables. We then made our way to the source of some of these spices: a plantation where we saw clove, nutmeg and cacao bean trees, and learnt some of the techniques in their planting, cultivation and harvesting.

We returned back to town and stopped at a sago palm processing area to watch how the pith of these palms is prepared for eating. The conclusion of our visit to Bobong was a large celebration at the local community centre, with what seemed to be most of the population. There were speeches and several traditional dances which some of us joined in, as well as a variety of local food and crafts. It was a happy occasion, with both the expeditioners and locals enjoying themselves with many guests requiring coaxing to return to Heritage Adventurer. What a special and privileged moment, to be the first ship ever to visit Bobong. With such a warm welcome we were sure to be back soon!

Day 24
Friday 7 July
Buru

As we anchored, the morning the sun rose behind the mysterious mountainous island of Buru. Pushed up from the depths of the Banda Sea many millions of years ago, to a height of 2700 metres, almost 9,000 feet, today it is cloaked in dense tropical rainforest.

First in the Zodiacs were our nature walking friends for a hike uphill from the coast, looking for birds and other wildlife. The rest of us headed for the small island of Tomahu for a cultural welcome. On our way we passed a pod of Spinner Dolphins.

On the beach hundreds of villagers were waiting to greet us and take selfies, arm in arm with their novel visitors. It was wonderful to see so many smiling faces, all delighted to see us. After a welcome speech from the Deputy Regent we were entertained by several dancing groups and offered a large range of local food to sample. It was hard to leave such a lively throng and the party continued long after we had departed.

Some of us then took Zodiacs to a snorkelling spot while others headed for the village of Pasir Putih, where we cruised by the numerous houses built over the sea on wooden stilts. Many villagers came out of their homes to wave and watch us pass. At the far end of the settlement we clambered up a crude ladder onto a wooden walkway before setting off to explore the village on foot. We were led by a local lady who offered to be our guide and gave us a fascinating insight into life in such a traditional village, where the main occupations seemed to be fishing and growing crops such as cacao and nutmeg.

As we boarded our Zodiacs for the journey back to the ship a large flotilla of small boats sped towards us, full of revellers returning from the beach where we had started the day. It had been a morning of rewarding immersion in the local culture of this remote and isolated island.

We spent the rest of the day at sea where Fiona and Steve gave a workshop on photo editing and Neil and Karen a presentation on Filming in Extremes.

Day 25
Saturday 8 July
Banda Islands

As we approached the Banda Islands in the early morning light, Heritage Adventurer passed the great shape of Gunung Api, an active volcano with old lava flows tumbling down to the sea. Two large kora kora canoes came out to greet us, each with over 36 paddlers and a drummer at the bow to set the pace. Once these would have been used for trade and war but now they're for ceremonial purposes only.

We anchored in a spectacular natural setting between the islands of Banda Api, with its volcano, and forested Banda Neira, before setting off in our Zodiacs for the main town on Banda Neira. Here we were greeted with a traditional welcome of dance and music, followed by a walking tour of the town. We learnt how the Banda Islands were once at the centre of world history because of the extraordinary value of nutmeg and mace, which originally came only from here. From the 16^th Century onwards, the Portuguese, Dutch and British were all here. The Dutch stayed the longest and constructed forts and other buildings. The centre of town still contained many old Dutch houses, as well as the old colonial club, the 'mini palace' of the governor, an old church and Fort Nassau, the first on the island.

We also visited a nutmeg plantation, to see the trees and their fruits which are still a commercial crop on the island. From there it was a short climb to Fort Belgica, built in 1611 by the Dutch to control the islands. It was set on a high vantage point with commanding views over the town, harbour and volcano. Later we descended to a characterful boutique hotel in an old colonial mansion for local refreshments and a chance to shop for souvenirs.

Some of our group stayed in town for lunch and more time ashore while most returned to the ship for lunch before setting off either on a nature walk or a snorkel. The walk was a pleasant stroll through forested gardens, where an endemic Banda Myzomela and Lemon-bellied White-eye were spotted as well as Spice Imperial Pigeons and Fruit Bats feeding together in the same tree.

Those who chose to snorkel enjoyed swimming over what used to be volcanic lava that flowed into the sea during the last eruption in 1988. It has since been recolonised by a wonderful diversity of coral, supporting a great variety of different fish, including colourful Parrotfish, Picasso and Titan Triggerfish, large schools of feeding Sergeant Majors and Tangs, and a lone Blacktip Reef Shark. It was a spectacular scene, full of colour and action, and we stayed in the water to enjoy it for well over an hour.

Soon after we had set sail for our next destination a pod of Sperm Whales were spotted from the bridge and we enjoyed watching their spouts on both sides of the ship, a perfect end to another great day of adventuring.

Day 26
Sunday 9 July
Matakus Island, Tanimbar Archipelago

It was a long transit to the Tanimbar archipelago so this morning was spent at sea. After breakfast, Fiona, Neil and Abam gave short presentations on topics we'd experienced on the expedition. These included: Whales, Dolphins and Flying Fish; Partnerships on the Reef, and Marine Biodiversity. Later Fiona and Glenda gave a workshop demonstrating how to create images with the technique of Cyanotype, and many people were then able to make their own images with this clever technique.

We arrived at Matakus Island at lunchtime and saw a very different island to those we had explored recently. It was low lying and ringed by white sand beaches. At first the wind was strong and the tide too low for us to get ashore by Zodiac but within an hour conditions had improved and we headed to the beach. There was a short ceremony in which village elders blessed our visit and children entertained us with traditional dancing and drumming.

With a local guide, we then set off to explore the small village of about 100 families. A majority of the population were Protestant which was obviously an important part of community life as the villagers were in the process of building a large and impressive new church. The village was well cared for and the streets lined with beautiful, flowering plants, including orchids which were the symbol of the Tanimbar region. We passed a local school and observed a demonstration of hand weaving as well as the construction of a large wooden canoe. It was a delightful visit to a very remote community.

Back at the sandy beach, some of us enjoyed a swim in the warm waters before heading back to Heritage Adventurer for dinner and recap.

Day 27
Monday 10 July
At Sea

This morning was on of leisure as we travelled from Indonesia to Australian waters in order to disembark at Darwin tomorrow. Karen and Neil gave a presentation on Making The Magic and revealed the secrets and techniques behind their wildlife films. After lunch Glenda led a quiz, with questions based on the things we'd seen and learnt during the expedition, before Nathan gave his presentation on Heritage Expeditions - The Story So Far. The day was rounded off with Captain's cocktails, Slide Show and a decadent farewell dinner, a time to share stories of our time together on our expedition on Asian Island Odyssey.

Day 28
Tuesday 11 July
Darwin

Early this morning we sailed into Darwin under clear skies and calm seas. After breakfast and filling in our departure cards, it was time to say goodbye to many new-found friends. We headed off in our different directions, enriched by the shared experience of our expedition to the remote corners of Japan, Taiwan, the Philippines and Indonesia.