HA230627: Undiscovered Philippines & Indonesia: Cruising the Islands of the Philippines & Indonesia, Manila to Darwin

UNDISCOVERED PHILIPPINES & INDONESIA

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

27 June - 11 July 2023

Day 1
Tuesday 27^th June
Manila, The Philippines

After flying in from different corners of the world, we assembled at the Marriott Hotel in Manila to meet fellow expeditioners and the Heritage team over a delicious welcome dinner before our adventures would officially begin the next day.

Day 2
Wednesday 28^th June
Manila

Our first day was an exploration of the fascinating history of Manila, capital city of the Philippines. It began with a short walk through beautiful Rizal Park to the José Rizal Monument commemorating Philippines' foremost national hero, whose writing inspired the uprising against Spanish colonial rule at the end of the 19^th Century. Rizal was executed by the colonial authorities.

Travelling by comfortable coach it was a brief ride to our next destination at Fort Santiago, an impressive stone fort built by the Spanish in the 1590s as the military headquarters for their new colony. It was used much later, in the 20^th Century, by both the Americans and then the Japanese for the same purpose. From here we had an excellent view over the Pasig River to Chinatown and beyond, now a prosperous business area with towering buildings.

Fort Santiago was set within the old walled city of Intramuros, again built by the Spanish. We learnt how this was largely destroyed in World War II in the battle to defeat the Japanese in Manila, but much has since been renovated or rebuilt in a massive restoration project by the city authorities. In all the fighting, only one significant building remained intact - San Augustin Church, the oldest in Manila, built by the Augustinians in about 1600. We visited the church and also the fascinating museum next door in the old monastery. We also enjoyed a moment to take in the atmosphere in Manila Cathedral where a wedding was being celebrated, we then enjoyed a delicious lunch at Guevara's restaurant owned by the famous Filipino chef Laudico.

After a tasty meal we toured two small museums nearby, one of which housed the ancient underground water supply of Manila. The other focused on the Philippines Katipunan Revolution, which started the fight for independence from Spain in the late 19^th Century. Then it was a short visit to the luxury Manila Hotel, the city's most historic, to appreciate its architecture and lavish foyer before arriving at Heritage Adventurer docked in the port of Manila.

Here we were entertained by an enthusiastic group of dancers on the wharf to send us on our journey. After a fine day of weather while exploring the city, we set sail across Manila Bay through a dramatic thunderstorm and lightning display. Our adventure to the far-flung islands of the Philippines and Indonesia had begun!

Day 3
Thursday 29^th June
Sibuyan

As we sailed towards Sibuyan our morning was taken up by briefings about Zodiac procedures and snorkelling.

Our newly learnt skills were put to good use soon after as we finished our early lunch and boarded the Zodiacs for our first adventure, towards the towering forest-covered island of Sibuyan. A slight swell made for a lively first landing onto a rocky beach - but we were well prepared and safely made it ashore.

We then boarded small minibuses and were given two options for exploring Sibuyan. Some of us headed off on a walk to explore a nearby a waterfall, while the rest of us were treated to a weaving demonstration using local forest materials. Most striking were the miniature tricycles being fashioned from rattan, a type of palm plant. The weaving was done in front of an old stone building, now smothered by large strangler figs, a reminder of how prolific the vegetation was in this tropical climate.

A short ride then took us to the start of a gentle stroll along a country road, between gardens and rice paddies. It was the planting season so the fields were being prepared, some by ploughs pulled by water buffalo, others by small mechanical ploughs. Flowers, butterflies and some birds kept the photographers busy and eventually we reached a beach with colourful fishing canoes.

Then it was on to view a large river tumbling down from the steep, forest clad mountains, claimed to be the 'cleanest water in the Philippines'.

The other option for the afternoon was a visit to Dagubdob Falls, arguably one of Sibuyan's most beautiful natural wonders. The waterfalls had a rich history dating back to the Spanish colonial era. It came as no surprise that it was once a favourite bathing spot for the Spanish soldiers stationed on Sibuyan Island and remains a popular destination for both locals and tourists alike.

It was a roughly 30 minute walk through lush greenery and crossing three shallow rivers to reach the falls. As the forest opened up, we were greeted by the sight of the waterfall and its fresh crystal clear waters that beckoned we jump in, cool down, and enjoy the tranquil natural surroundings.

Our local guides also had a surprise for us, offering locally made fruit salads and smoothies to enjoy in the natural pool, before we made our way back to Heritage Adventurer.

Later in the afternoon, after Heritage Adventurer had repositioned, we set off in our Zodiacs to explore the small coral island of Cresta de Gallo. We arrived at a sheltered sandy beach, with shallow water perfect for a swim. It was a relaxing end to the day and we stayed to enjoy the sun set.

Day 4
Friday 30^th June
Ticao

Today we found ourselves in paradise at Halea Nature Park on the island of San Miguel, just above Ticao island.

As we approached in our Zodiacs we watched the water turn from deep blue to a sparkling turquoise. The beach was made of fine, sugary white sand with a backdrop of swaying palm trees and, as we landed, we were greeted with a local dance performance and fresh drinking coconuts.

It was a fantastic day for snorkelling and exploring the island's house reef. Beneath the surface we were treated to an array of colourful coral and multiple fish species. A few highlights included a Yellow-lipped Sea Krait, bold Anemone Fish and a sweet little Pipefish.

However, the stars of the reef for many were the juvenile Blacktip Reef Sharks. The bay was believed to be a nursery ground for the sharks, and offered them a safe haven to grow up in until they were ready to venture into deeper waters on the outer reefs. We headed out in small groups with a local guide and floated quietly on the surface. With a little patience we were treated to some lovely sightings of these shy but beautiful sharks.

Some of us also took a walk up over the hill behind the bay, through old gardens and secondary forest, to a beach on the far side of the island. Overall it was a relaxing morning in a beautiful setting.

After returning to Heritage Adventurer for lunch, we enjoyed an Introduction to Photography from Fiona and Steve as well as a presentation on Vanishing Treasures of the Philippine Rainforest from Rod.

Day 5
Saturday 1^st July
Bohol

Heritage Adventurer arrived at Bohol on a fine, calm morning. A short Zodiac ride brought us to the small fishing port of Baclayan, with its picturesque Spanish colonial era church built from coral limestone, where we boarded comfortable coaches for our journey inland. Bohol was a lush green and characterful island and we stopped frequently for photos of the beautiful rural landscapes, until finally arriving at our first destination - the Chocolate Hills.

A long flight of steps brought us to a viewpoint that revealed a stunning panorama. Before us spanned hundreds of conical hills covered in grass and, in the dry season, would dry and turn brown hence the name. However, our visit was at the beginning of the wet season so the hills glowed with a green tinge in the morning sun, which was no less stunning. This land was formed from coral reefs below the sea millions of years ago and then later uplifted by great tectonic forces, and finally eroded into these extraordinary shapes by the action of water over many hundreds of thousands of years. It was a unique landscape and our viewpoint gave us the perfect vantage for some amazing photography and the odd selfie!

It was then a short ride to the Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary, which we entered with much excitement at the anticipation of seeing these tiny primates. Tarsiers are active at night and each morning return to the same place to rest during the day. With the help of the sanctuary guides we found them resting on low branches and, despite the dense vegetation and their diminutive size, we were able to get a good view of four different individuals. Occasionally, they would turn their heads and look at us with their huge eyes - a very special moment.

We returned to Heritage Adventurer for a brief lunch, then some of us spent the afternoon enjoying the beach and other facilities at the Bohol Beach Club. Others boarded two local boats for a half hour journey to the small coral island of Balicasag, one of the Philippines' top dive sites. Small canoes took us to the best spots for snorkelling where the reef was incredibly colourful and sloped down to a steep drop-off into the blue, where clouds of Anthias swarmed in the current. The highlight of the afternoon was watching the plentiful Green Sea Turtles, which fed and rested in the shallows. What a special place, and a fabulous end to a wonderful day of exploring on land and sea!

Day 6
Sunday 2^nd July
Bucas Grande

During the morning we set out from Heritage Adventurer in our Zodiacs towards Sohoton Bay, an area of jungle-covered limestone that we planned to explore. At the tourist centre we donned life jackets and helmets and transferred into local outrigger canoes, each with a boatman and guide. Then it was off through the beautiful labyrinth of islands and channels. The area had been created in much the same way as the Chocolate Hills of Bohol: as a coral reef formed millions of years ago that had been uplifted above sea level, then eroded down into conical hills. The difference here was that the landscape had then been flooded as global sea levels rose at the end of the last Ice Age, so the rocky, jungle-covered hills rose out of the sea.

We soon realised why the helmets were required as we travelled through a low cave, ducking down in the canoe to avoid the stalactites, until we emerged into an enclosed marine lake, quiet and secluded. A Sea Eagle flew by and landed in a tall tree, giving us a great view of this magnificent bird.

We arrived into a small bay to glimpse the reason for our journey, floating just under the surface, jellyfish! Down into the water with our snorkels, we entered an alien looking world. Groups of white moon jellyfish pulsated in front of us, each about the size of a dinner plate. Among them were smaller golden jellyfish. This species lost its stinging tentacles and instead relies on millions of tiny algae living within their tissues to produce most of their food by photosynthesis. It was a fascinating experience, floating amongst the stingless jellies, in an amphitheatre of jungle-covered slopes.

Back out through the labyrinth of channels, we returned to the tourist centre to transfer into our Zodiacs for a cruise along the coast to a remote beach. While some of us snorkelled among the seagrass and coral, others went for a short walk through the forest. The path was rocky and we could still see the details of whole coral heads perfectly preserved. Eventually we came to a marine lake and were enclosed on all sides by steep forest-covered slopes into a hidden world.

Back at the beach some of us were lucky enough to spot a party of Hornbills flying overhead while we walked along the tideline and encountered a range of colourful seashells. Bucas Grande delivered on a wonderful variety of natural experiences during our visit.

Day 7
Monday 3^rd July
At Sea

Today was spent at sea travelling between the Philippines and Indonesia. We enjoyed a panel of presentations on Tarsiers from Rod, Underwater Photography from Fiona, Turtles and Seagrass from Courtney and Sharks from Abam. Later in the morning Neil showed his film Oceans - Our Blue Planet for our entertainment.

After lunch Karen and Neil gave a presentation on Volcanoes, Earthquakes and the Ring of Fire followed by Thijs's Welcome to Indonesia.

After a relaxing day at sea, we were all looking forward to continuing our adventure tomorrow in wonderful Indonesia.

Day 8
Tuesday 4^th July
Bitung and Tangkoko

We arrived in Indonesia during the early morning at the port city of Bitung on the island of Sulawesi and cleared customs and immigration, then headed into the port by Zodiac.

A short ride by minibus brought us to the main market, bustling and colourful, which sold fresh vegetables, dried fish, spices and other food. We were only the second international passenger vessel to visit Bitung this year, so our presence attracted a lot of attention and a warm welcome from the locals. As we took photos of the fascinating market scenes we found ourselves being enthusiastically photographed by stallholders and shoppers.

Then we took a brief stop at a souvenir shop and money changers where we also watched a demonstration of local cooking and sampled the delicious pastries and sweets being produced. This was followed by a visit to a Chinese temple where colourful dragons adorned the entrance while the atmospheric interior was crammed with mythological images, offerings and huge burning candles.

As we drove through the city streets we were treated as VIPs, with traffic bring directed by the local police to give us an unobstructed ride, until eventually we arrived at the palatial style mayor's office. The mayor of Bitung had invited us all to lunch! At the entrance, we were entertained by traditionally dressed dancers who greeted us with fierce facial expressions and waving swords. Then it was a generous buffet of local dishes with the mayor in his sumptuous dining room, before more dancing which we joined in to everyone's hilarity.

After lunch we drove through the countryside to Tangkoko Nature Reserve, a beautiful tropical rainforest by the sea. Walking through the forest we encountered the unusual Crested Black Macaques, with their distinctive faces and crests, unique to this part of northern Sulawesi. Large strangler fig trees were home to Spectral Tarsiers, tiny nocturnal primates, which many of us heard calling and were lucky enough to see. High in the canopy, several pairs of Sulawesi Bear Cuscus were spotted. These marsupials are evidence of Sulawesi's biological links to Australia as well as Asia. The park was also rich in endemic birds including Knobbed Hornbills seen at their nest high up a large tree. We also encountered a Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher, Green-backed Kingfisher, Cinnabar Boobook and Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker.

Late afternoon, we departed back to Heritage Adventurer from a beach of black volcanic sand after a day of very special cultural and natural experiences.

Day 9
Wednesday 5^th July
Ternate

Arriving at the town quay at Ternate we were greeted by swimmers enjoying an early morning dip in the clear waters. Our bus transport for the day was provided by the local police, who drove us first to Fort Tolukko. The fort was built by the Portuguese in 1540 to help control the valuable trade in spices such as cloves from the island. Wandering around the fort, we were able to take in spectacular views of the town and across the water to a volcano on the neighbouring island of Tidore. Just below the fort were plantations of sago palms, one of the staple foods here.

We then headed to the Sultan of Ternate's Palace, where we were greeted with a traditional ceremony performed by the Sultan's staff in traditional dress, before being shown around. The impressive building was full of historical artefacts, including paintings of the previous Sultans and armour from the different settlers who wanted to control the trade in Ternate's spices.

The Sultans' deputy gave a welcome speech and we were offered a variety of Ternate dishes made from coconut cream, sago palm and other local ingredients, before being entertained by a dance group and a band playing traditional instruments. Our last stop was the Palace Museum where we took in exhibitions about the history of the Sultanate, including weapons, garments and an ornate horse drawn coach. As we departed the Palace the musicians played again and some of us joined in by trying to keep time with the music on the large gong.

Back at the town quay we were farewelled by friendly locals, keen for selfies with us and to practice their English skills, while groups of children in the water splashed around to attract our attention and have their photos taken. There were smiles all round as we departed in our Zodiacs for Heritage Adventurer.

During the afternoon Rod held a workshop on bird identification, to help us put names to the birds we'd seen so far, followed by a presentation from Neil on Indonesia - A Magical Mix of Wildlife.

Soon after 1800 we all gathered around the pool on Deck 7 as we approached 0° latitude. Graced with the presence of Neptune himself, at 1813 precisely we crossed the Equator. Neptune read out a proclamation welcoming us into his realm and then proceeded to inaugurate those who were crossing the equator at sea for the first time, anointing them with a snorkelling noodle before they leapt into the pool. Finally, we all toasted the crossing with a spicy cocktail. This wonderful day then ended with a perfect sunset over the sea.

Day 10
Thursday 6^th July
Taliabu

During the morning Heritage Adventurer arrived off the small island of Seho, near Taliabu. We landed at a beautiful sandy beach backed by forested hills, an unspoilt paradise. While some of the group took a nature walk most chose to snorkel in the calm waters of the bay. Here we were treated to an amazing carpet of soft corals of many different colours waving in the gentle currents. A variety of hard corals and anemones also grew here, among a multitude of colourful fish and even a Banded Sea Snake. Back on the beach we enjoyed fresh drinking coconuts full of refreshing juice.

Back on board, we made our way to the township of Bobong on Taliabu, where we were greeted by what seemed to be the whole township. We were apparently the first foreign passenger ship ever to visit this place so we were a real curiosity to all the residents. We made our way onto various forms of transport including open trucks, mini buses and becaks, the local form of motorised rickshaw.

Our first stop were the local markets abundant in fresh produce, including ocean fish, spices and a variety of vegetables. We then made our way to the source of some of these spices: a plantation where we saw clove, nutmeg and cacao bean trees, and learnt some of the techniques in their planting, cultivation and harvesting.

We returned back to town and stopped at a sago palm processing area to watch how the pith of these palms is prepared for eating. The conclusion of our visit to Bobong was a large celebration at the local community centre, with what seemed to be most of the population. There were speeches and several traditional dances which some of us joined in, as well as a variety of local food and crafts. It was a happy occasion, with both the expeditioners and locals enjoying themselves with many guests requiring coaxing to return to Heritage Adventurer. What a special and privileged moment, to be the first ship ever to visit Bobong. With such a warm welcome we were sure to be back soon!

Day 11
Friday 7^th July
Buru

As we anchored, the morning the sun rose behind the mysterious mountainous island of Buru. Pushed up from the depths of the Banda Sea many millions of years ago, to a height of 2700 metres, almost 9,000 feet, today it is cloaked in dense tropical rainforest.

First in the Zodiacs were our nature walking friends for a hike uphill from the coast, looking for birds and other wildlife. The rest of us headed for the small island of Tomahu for a cultural welcome. On our way we passed a pod of Spinner Dolphins.

On the beach hundreds of villagers were waiting to greet us and take selfies, arm in arm with their novel visitors. It was wonderful to see so many smiling faces, all delighted to see us. After a welcome speech from the Deputy Regent we were entertained by several dancing groups and offered a large range of local food to sample. It was hard to leave such a lively throng and the party continued long after we had departed.

Some of us then took Zodiacs to a snorkelling spot while others headed for the village of Pasir Putih, where we cruised by the numerous houses built over the sea on wooden stilts. Many villagers came out of their homes to wave and watch us pass. At the far end of the settlement we clambered up a crude ladder onto a wooden walkway before setting off to explore the village on foot. We were led by a local lady who offered to be our guide and gave us a fascinating insight into life in such a traditional village, where the main occupations seemed to be fishing and growing crops such as cacao and nutmeg.

As we boarded our Zodiacs for the journey back to the ship a large flotilla of small boats sped towards us, full of revellers returning from the beach where we had started the day. It had been a morning of rewarding immersion in the local culture of this remote and isolated island.

We spent the rest of the day at sea where Fiona and Steve gave a workshop on photo editing and Neil and Karen a presentation on Filming in Extremes.

Day 12
Saturday 8^th July
Banda Islands

As we approached the Banda Islands in the early morning light, Heritage Adventurer passed the great shape of Gunung Api, an active volcano with old lava flows tumbling down to the sea. Two large kora kora canoes came out to greet us, each with over 36 paddlers and a drummer at the bow to set the pace. Once these would have been used for trade and war but now they're for ceremonial purposes only.

We anchored in a spectacular natural setting between the islands of Banda Api, with its volcano, and forested Banda Neira, before setting off in our Zodiacs for the main town on Banda Neira. Here we were greeted with a traditional welcome of dance and music, followed by a walking tour of the town. We learnt how the Banda Islands were once at the centre of world history because of the extraordinary value of nutmeg and mace, which originally came only from here. From the 16^th Century onwards, the Portuguese, Dutch and British were all here. The Dutch stayed the longest and constructed forts and other buildings. The centre of town still contained many old Dutch houses, as well as the old colonial club, the 'mini palace' of the governor, an old church and Fort Nassau, the first on the island.

We also visited a nutmeg plantation, to see the trees and their fruits which are still a commercial crop on the island. From there it was a short climb to Fort Belgica, built in 1611 by the Dutch to control the islands. It was set on a high vantage point with commanding views over the town, harbour and volcano. Later we descended to a characterful boutique hotel in an old colonial mansion for local refreshments and a chance to shop for souvenirs.

Some of our group stayed in town for lunch and more time ashore while most returned to the ship for lunch before setting off either on a nature walk or a snorkel. The walk was a pleasant stroll through forested gardens, where an endemic Banda Myzomela and Lemon-bellied White-eye were spotted as well as Spice Imperial Pigeons and Fruit Bats feeding together in the same tree.

Those who chose to snorkel enjoyed swimming over what used to be volcanic lava that flowed into the sea during the last eruption in 1988. It has since been recolonised by a wonderful diversity of coral, supporting a great variety of different fish, including colourful Parrotfish, Picasso and Titan Triggerfish, large schools of feeding Sergeant Majors and Tangs, and a lone Blacktip Reef Shark. It was a spectacular scene, full of colour and action, and we stayed in the water to enjoy it for well over an hour.

Soon after we had set sail for our next destination a pod of Sperm Whales were spotted from the bridge and we enjoyed watching their spouts on both sides of the ship, a perfect end to another great day of adventuring.

Day 13
Sunday 9^th July
Matakus Island, Tanimbar Archipelago

It was a long transit to the Tanimbar archipelago so this morning was spent at sea. After breakfast, Fiona, Neil and Abam gave short presentations on topics we'd experienced on the expedition. These included: Whales, Dolphins and Flying Fish; Partnerships on the Reef, and Marine Biodiversity. Later Fiona and Glenda gave a workshop demonstrating how to create images with the technique of Cyanotype, and many people were then able to make their own images with this clever technique.

We arrived at Matakus Island at lunchtime and saw a very different island to those we had explored recently. It was low lying and ringed by white sand beaches. At first the wind was strong and the tide too low for us to get ashore by Zodiac but within an hour conditions had improved and we headed to the beach. There was a short ceremony in which village elders blessed our visit and children entertained us with traditional dancing and drumming.

With a local guide, we then set off to explore the small village of about 100 families. A majority of the population were Protestant which was obviously an important part of community life as the villagers were in the process of building a large and impressive new church. The village was well cared for and the streets lined with beautiful, flowering plants, including orchids which were the symbol of the Tanimbar region. We passed a local school and observed a demonstration of hand weaving as well as the construction of a large wooden canoe. It was a delightful visit to a very remote community.

Back at the sandy beach, some of us enjoyed a swim in the warm waters before heading back to Heritage Adventurer for dinner and recap.

Day 14
Monday 10^th July
At Sea

This morning was one of leisure as we travelled from Indonesia to Australian waters in order to disembark at Darwin tomorrow. Karen and Neil gave a presentation on Making The Magic and revealed the secrets and techniques behind their wildlife films. After lunch Glenda led a quiz, with questions based on the things we'd seen and learnt during the expedition, before Nathan gave his presentation on Heritage Expeditions - The Story So Far. The day was rounded off with Captain's cocktails, Slide Show and a decadent farewell dinner, a time to share stories of our time together on our expedition through Undiscovered Philippines and Indonesia.

Day 15
Tuesday 11^th July
Darwin

Early this morning we sailed into Darwin under clear skies and calm seas. After breakfast and filling in our departure cards, it was time to say goodbye to many new-found friends. We headed off in our different directions, enriched by the shared experience of our expedition to the remote corners of the Philippines and Indonesia.