1269: Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific 5 Jan 2012
Thursday 5th January 2012: Bluff
Our expedition party assembled early on a grey, showery Invercargill morning. Locals assured us that this was not normal Invercargill weather, as the previous month had been dominated by sunshine. Once bags had been assigned cabin numbers, the luggage was taken from us to be transferred to the ship. Then the group of voyagers boarded the coach for the short transfer to Bluff, all chatting with newfound friends about the adventure to come. After brief formalities at the port entrance we boarded the ice-strengthened Spirit of Enderby. Our Expedition Leader led us through a short introduction of key ship staff and crew and the Hotel Manager explained shipboard life and the hotel system.
We headed out into Foveaux Straight aiming for shelter in the lee of Stewart Island where we dropped anchor for lunch. Birds had been in good numbers around the ship as we crossed Foveaux Straight, Shearwaters, Salvin's Albatross, Pied Shags, Common Diving Petrels and Fluttery Shearwaters were all present, as were small pods of Dusky Dolphins.
After lunch we were briefed on the safe use of zodiacs and lifeboats, as well as the very important biosecurity measures. Then the emergency bell tolled and we moved quickly to our assigned lifeboats. By now we were in full sun and had great views of The Neck, a sand spit on the Eastern side of Stewart Island's Preservation Inlet (a fantastic site for spotting kiwi should you find yourself there). A quiet afternoon with little swell saw us progressing at 10 knots around the East and Southeast of the Stewart Island coastline. From Shelter Point our direction changed and we commenced a southerly line for Campbell Island. By dinner time the swell had increased, leaving the dining room sparsely populated. Those of us who did enjoy a delicious first dinner on board soon took ourselves off to our cabins, hoping conditions would ease during the night.
Friday 6th January 2012: At Sea
49° 35'S
168°45'E
Air temperature: 11°C
Water temperature: 11°C
Wind: NW 12 mps 23 knots
Overnight we had maintained our direct course for Campbell Island and a good swell had remained with us overnight. After breakfast we attended the first lecture for the day, detailing the evolution, life history and population dynamics of the seals of the southern oceans. The lecturer introduced us to the 4 species we were likely to see, and explained the difference between true seals and eared seals. The key dissimilarity is that the latter can turn their rear flippers and walk on four feet. We were impressed to hear that the largest seal on earth, the Elephant seal, which we hoped to see on either Campbell or Enderby Island, can reach up to 4 metres in length and 3.4 tonnes. The Elephant seal is a true seal, and along with the Weddell, Crabeater, Ross and Leopard seals, makes up the complement of that type present in the Southern Ocean. The Eared seals include the New Zealand Fur Seal, present on all three island groups we would visit, as well as the Antarctic Fur Seal, the Subantarctic Fur Seal, and the Hookers or New Zealand Sea Lion. The rarest seals in the world, these Sea Lions would feature regularly in our island adventures.
The midday lecture explained the history of Campbell Island, ranging from the discovery in 1810 to the bicentennial expedition in 2010/2011. The presenter touched on the sealers, relayed the story of the 'Lady of the Heather', and the French Venus Expedition in 1874. Continuing chronologically he covered the first whalers in 1888, the beginning of the pastoral lease in 1895, and the 1907 Subantarctic Islands Scientific Expedition. The more recent activities of note on Campbell Island included the erection of the 1970 and 1984 fence lines, when first half, and then the majority of the island was cleared of sheep. We were also told of the rediscovery, by Heritage Expeditions founder, Rodney Russ, of the Campbell Island Teal in 1975 on Dent Island. Lunch followed, and the chefs, appreciating some of our motion-related dilemmas, were kind enough to end the meal with ginger crunch, a natural remedy for queasiness. For those who were about after lunch, there was a very enlightening lecture introducing us to the flora of all three Subantarctic Islands, touching on what drives the assembly of Subantarctic ecosystems. Some quirks of the megaherbs were included as these are clearly the sexiest of the biotic elements of the island.
Our final lecture for the day explored the history of the Cape Expedition, which ran from 1940-1945, and was the covert name for coastwatching stations set up on many of New Zealand's offshore islands during World War Two. Presenter, Rowley Taylor, had had the pleasure of meeting a number of the coastwatchers soon after they had returned from Campbell and the Auckland Islands, and hence there are very few people with his insight into their work and daily life. He detailed the conditions the coastwatchers found on the islands when they arrived, the establishment of their huts and the ships that serviced their requirements. The incredible collection of images Rowley had procured from the men themselves was a particular highlight of his lecture, preparing us visually for enormous changes that have taken place on Campbell Island. Finally Rowley pointed out the great natural history literature that resulted from the Cape Expedition, an underutilised and highly important resource for comparative research on the island today. After a few drinks around the bar and a tasty dinner, we all retired, quite ready to end our slumbers in the calm waters of Perseverance harbour.
Saturday 7thJanuary 2012: Campbell Island
52° 33'S
169°09'E
Air temperature: 8°C
Water temperature: 10°C
Wind: NW 3 mps 6/7 knots
Russian Christmas was upon us. We spent much of the morning practising the Russian greeting "Serasve storm Christovem!" on the crew. After breakfast, Expedition Leader Nathan introduced us to Campbell Island and our options for the day. Botanist Alex led the North West Bay route, which we began by 9.00. From a dry landing at the wharf of the old meteorological station the group headed through the Dracophyllum scrub, past fields of Giant Button Daisies over to Tucker Cove, where the path to the old coastwatchers hut begins. Having a big day ahead we had to forgo a visit there and continue up and onto the wide flat cushion bog of Homestead Ridge. Crossing the ridge through masses of Beak Orchids, Odd-Leaved Orchids, and the first patches of Damnamenia daisies, we came to the base of an old slip now forming the trail up onto the southern ridge flanking Col Peak.
A quick morning tea fuelled us up the ridge. Passing our first Southern Royal Albatross we made our way onto the ridge proper and were delighted to see one of the most spectacular gardens of megaherbs on Campbell Island. Seldom do all three species of Pleurophyllum occur together, but here all three were in flower, as well as hybrids of the Emperor Daisy and Giant Button Daisy. Studded between this mix of unlikely shapes and colours were pockets of yellow and pink cauliflower-like flower-heads on stretched stalks, respectively the Macquarie Island Cabbage and Anisotome latifolia. In the middle of the megaherb field a Skua cried to attract our attention while its chick hid itself somewhere off behind a daisy. West of our position, the three teeth of Dent Island protruded into the sea. We climbed a little further to our highest point of the day and then began moving down along the coastline, above the sandstone cliffs. The effect of the great wind strength here was evident along the trail, where bits of sandstone had been scoured off and thrown back inland. Through dense patches of aromatic Anisotome we continued, eventually finding ourselves amid coastal tussocks reaching two metres and forming a labyrinthine path down to our lunch spot at Capstan Cove. Sea Lion sub-adults and pups, Elephant Seals, Hoiho (Yellow-eyed Penguins) and Giant Petrels all competed for our attention in the cove, where we spent a happy half hour exploring before climbing up through the Dracophyllum.
Here it was evident that Dracophyllum could indeed reach tree status, as we wandered upright under the canopy. Our company decided to investigate North West Bay hut where sporadic research into Southern Right Whale breeding is on-going. We returned to the 1984 fence line and picked a scant path through the ever spreading Dracophyllum scrub, emerging between albatross. Just at that moment sharp, biting, horizontal hail began. Hoods raised and our resolve hardened, we strode determinedly below Mt Dumas and across Camp Stream to a cave which was originally the Coastwatchers point of retreat should enemies attain the island. The two lounge chairs put there by Meteorological Service workers remained in place and were a welcome respite for a number of our party. A short plummet down to Camp Cove, the home of the "Lady of the Heather" and the Sitka Spruce, led us to the waiting zodiacs. It had been a fantastic walk, albeit a little more bracing than we anticipated.
Those who had chosen to follow the boardwalk to the Col-Lyall saddle in search of albatross and megaherbs had also been found by the wind and hail. The boardwalk wound up and around Beeman Hill, passing the old Meteorological Station Hostel, before opening out into a cushion bog, dotted with orchids and the first megaherbs. A short climb led to the mecca of Southern Royal Albatross nesting sites and a great view down into Northeast Harbour. At the top of the boardwalk wonderful views up and down the Western Coast and out to Dent Island complemented the dense megaherb field on the summit of the ridge. Events of the day were recapped when everyone was back aboard the Spirit of Enderby and we sat down to another great dinner. Folks slipped off fairly early to their cabins to regain a little energy for a second exhilarating day on Campbell Island.
Sunday 8thJanuary 2012: Campbell Island
52° 33'S
169°09'E
Air temperature: 9°C
Water temperature: 10°C
Wind: NW 8 mps 12 knots
For the keen thirteen who were eager to brave the heights of Mt Honey, the highest point on Campbell Island, an early start was essential. By 6.45 the group was delivered to Garden Cove. Within 45 minutes we had sped up the Rollercoaster track, so named for its continual rolling bumps. From the saddle of Mt Honey and Filhol Peak we attacked the Western flank of Mt Honey and began the steady grind through the tussock and megaherb field to the rocky tip of the mount. After one hour and fifty three minutes (as confirmed by a zealous timekeeper in the group) the first members of our party were on the top, followed very closely by the remainder. Our success was recognised by a small family of Sea Lions, resident atop the peak, who saluted us with barks as we arrived. Within minutes of arriving on the top of Mt Honey we were incredibly lucky to see the sun emerge from cloud. With spirits high and time to spare, we basked in the sun, explored the top of peak and recorded our achievement with a group photo. The walkers returned along the Rollercoaster, now taking the time to admire the orchids, club mosses, and dwarf scrub, and awaited the water-taxi back to the ship.
While some climbed Mt Honey, a second group went up the Col-Lyall boardwalk to find a good deal more movement than the day before among the albatross, and also found a juvenile Elephant Seal. A third group spent the morning exploring the history of Campbell Island via zodiac. After seeing a pair of Teal at the Meteorological Station wharf, the team cruised around Tucker Cove and landed at the site of the Tucker Cove Homestead. The group was told the history of the sheep station, and the one remaining feature, the Shacklock Orion Stove, was admired. A second landing at Camp Cove provided the opportunity for meeting the 'world's loneliest tree' and to examine the flax planted around remnants of a sod hut, supposedly once the residence of the 'Lady of the Heather'. Back on the zodiacs, they rounded the coast to the gravesite of Mr Duris, where the purpose and history of the French Venus Expedition was discussed, before returning to the ship.
The anchor was lifted after lunch and we navigated out of Perserverance Harbour, with albatross on the bow and small colonies of Sea Lions on both sides of the vessel. Conditions were remarkably favourable, so we were able to anchor off Cossack Rock to experience a very rare and cool excursion. Five zodiacs were loaded into the water and we began an incredible journey along the Northeast coast of Campbell Island, stretching from the heads of Northeast Harbour all the way to Bull Rock. Here mixed colonies of Campbell Island Albatross, Grey Headed Albatross, and Black Browed Albatross sat like fortifications on the cliff edges. As each new cove came into view, each albatross garrison increased in area and population, until the penultimate colony at Bull Rock. Campbell Island Shags, Hoiho, Arctic Terns, and Light Mantled Sooty Albatross were all spotted along the way. Flushes of bright green below some of the colonies gave an indication of the importance of marine subsidies into the terrestrial ecosystem. From Bull Rock we headed out towards a great raft of albatross only to find an intense current, which tested the power of the 60 horses on the back of each zodiac. Closer to shore we approached a reformed raft of albatross. Five zodiacs wide, we slowly approached the raft, resulting in some stunning photos and an incredible sense of being as one with the wildlife as the birds took to the air with a great beating of wings around us.
We returned to the ship, tired and very exhilarated. Many of us were probably not aware how lucky we were to have experienced as much as we had in just one day. Reluctantly we bade farewell to Campbell Island and after a much appreciated dinner, most retired early to dream about the next adventure, the Auckland Islands.
Monday 9th January 2012: Enderby Island
51° 72'S
166°14'E
Air temperature: 10°C
Water temperature: 11°C
Wind: N 9 mps 13 knots
We awoke surrounded by ocean, pushing 10 knots toward the Auckland Islands. After breakfast the heads of Carnley Harbour were in view, with Adams and Auckland Islands both shrouded in mist. Soon after the islands were in sight, Rowley Taylor presented our New Zealand Geographic keynote lecture, describing his early experiences in the Subantarctic and the production of his book "Straight through from London". The first expedition our speaker had made to the Subantarctic was in 1954 to Enderby Island, sailing on the Homeleigh. Those four days of research were focused on rabbit parasites and set the tone for Rowley's future research on exotic mammals on Subantarctic islands. Rowley went on to describe his involvement with the Antipodes and the Bounty islands, and noted his enviable record of having spent time on all of our Subantarctic islands, Antarctica and Raoul Island in the Kermadec group. The insight into scientific operations of the time was of particular interest, and if hanging a hoary lab coat across a bit of old wire was still an official distress signal, then such an article should certainly be an integral component of everyone's field attire. Rowley's lecture ended and the weather began to threaten our afternoon agenda. While we awaited signs from above, we learned about the chronological history of the Auckland Islands. Starting with Polynesian arrival, the presenter moved through Maori and Moriori settlement, onto the establishment and failure of Hardwicke. The most notable of the shipwrecks were illustrated, as was the Erlangen Rata poaching episode. We were then taken through to the establishment of the automated meteorological station on Enderby Island. By lunchtime we were at anchor in the Western Arm of Carnley Harbour, and over lunch folks decided how their afternoon would be spent. The options were a zodiac cruise or a hike up the South West Cape. Those who opted for the latter reported a fantastic trip up to the White Capped Mollymawk (Shy Albatross) breeding colony.
Bunches of endemic Auckland Island Gentians bloomed in whites, stripes, pinks, mauves, and all shades through to a deep cerise, and all three species of Hebe were noted. Pipits lost the limelight to the albatross with their nests elevated amongst the massive stalked heads of multi-coloured Anisotome bunches. While the hiking group were looking down upon this spectacle, members of 'team zodiac' were looking up with similar reverence. Prior to crossing the channel north of Monument Island, we had cruised along the northern shoreline of the Western Arm of Carnley Harbour, passing finger posts and an ever-reddening forest canopy. In Trinity Cove the motors were killed and the craft drifted to the chorus of Bellbirds soused on Rata nectar. We followed the coastline closely, noting patches of flowering Shore Hebe, the occasional Auckland Island Shag and the odd Hooker's Sea Lion. This was all prior to us sharing the views of the albatross colony. By this time we were motoring in and out of a large sea cave, admiring the twists of the Bull Kelp that bordered the most fantastically blue water. This vivid blue was broken only by huge pulsing pink and white jellyfish so large they could be seen by the group high above us. Fortified by these sights we took on the challenge of Victoria Passage and after battling the current, we emerged somewhere near Fairchild's Garden. A small group of parakeets and a New Zealand Falcon were spotted as we meandered up towards the site of the Adam's Island boat shed. By 18.00 everyone was back aboard, and the Captain decided to moor for the night close to Tagua Bay.
Tuesday 10th January 2012: Enderby Island
50° 30'S
166°16'E
Air temperature: 11°C
Water temperature: 11°C
Wind: N 6 mps 11 knots
Overnight the captain lifted anchor and moved the ship to Port Ross off Enderby Island, so we awoke with Enderby Island just visible through sea-mist. After breakfast we were briefed on the character of the island, where we should look out for certain wildlife, and what our options were for the day. Zodiac shuttles to the island began and we landed on a rock platform at the western end of Sandy Bay. Sandy Bay itself was relatively quiet. Tussles with the Sea Lion beach masters were yet to begin in earnest and the female Sea Lions were just beginning to plot their escape route from the harems.
We congregated around the old boat shed, discarded the gear we would not need for the day, and headed off into the haze. Hoiho or Yellow Eyed Penguins, dotted the open turfs we had to cross before breaking into the low forest. As the height of the vegetation grew, rounded mounds of Mountain Tauhinu and Weeping Mapou were evident in full flower, and these gave way to patches of the intense crimson of the Southern Rata.
Once on the boardwalk my orchid-searching eyes were alerted. First, small green Bird Orchids appeared. These gave way to Odd Leaved Orchids, pockets of Onion Leaved Orchids and Sun Orchids, the latter so close to bursting into flower that temptation to lie in wait along the boardwalk was almost too much. Towards the Northern end of the boardwalk the dwarf forest species were replaced by tussock and two megaherbs, Ross's Lily, Bulbinella rossii, and Anisotome latifolia. There is no common name for the Anisotome, but we would be pretty safe in dubbing it the Super-Carrot of the Subantarctic. This vegetation change had also led us into Snipe country and to the joy of the group, one was soon spotted and photographed. We crossed the 'Super-Carrot' fields, with endemic Auckland Island Gentians in full bloom, and hit upon the nesting sites of a few pairs of Sooty Albatross, embedded amongst a small colony of Auckland Island Shags.
Now the group divided into two, with some continuing around the perimeter of the island and the remainder returning via the boardwalk. The perimeter walkers set out to explore the rocky outcrop and pebbly beach at Derry Castle reef. This area where the reef attaches itself to the mainland is a biological treasure trove. Auckland Island Teal dozed between patches of rock, while a bevy of Auckland Island Banded Dotterel, numbering almost 50, grazed amongst the mats of turf vegetation. Sea Lions were sporadically dotted over the area, and in the northeast corner of the beach a colony of Fur Seals barked huskily at any incomers. From Derry Castle we followed the coast around Bones Bay and Three Cave Bay. The beaches beyond Fur Seal Cliffs were laden with mature and sub-adult Sea Lion males. We climbed up and over to Gargoyle Point to observe the ever-increasing colony of Auckland Island Shags. The birds were in a very social state and most definitely warranted a visit. Excellent photos of chicks and incoming birds were our reward. We parted ways with the shags and cut inland a little, following grass sward between high tussock, to the edge of the forest. Bellbird and Red-Crested Parakeets darted and dived amongst the Southern Rata and Weeping Mapou, and we followed indistinct Seal Lion tracks into the forest. Under a canopy of Rata, a sparse understory dominated by the contrasting shapes of Turpentine Scrub (Dracophylum longifolium) and Macquarie Island Cabbage (Stilbocarpa polaris) complemented the diversity of ferns and the occasional Hoiho nest.
Emerging from the forest we followed the coastline once again, passing along East Bay, Northeast Cape and eventually Pebble Point, the south-east corner of the island. The occasional Snipe or Teal were flushed and at moments where the tussock seemed to be getting the better of our ankles, Parakeets appeared to bring light relief. I followed two bobbing heads into the forest once again, and found a Hoiho nesting on the concave bows of a Rata with its blue eyed chick (the yellow eye and eyebrow develop later with the first moult). Along the Southern coast was Teal country, with adults and chicks seen in small creeks and at Teal Lake. At this point my eyes were starting to seek out a new family of orchids (new for the Subantarctic anyhow) which were spotted on a previous trip to Enderby. The Green Hood or Pterostylis species had been seen just the previous week growing below the tussock, and we were lucky enough to find three populations on this day, collecting GPS coordinates, counting and photographing each. We then followed the last curling stretch of trail, cut through scrub, towards Sandy Bay, and came over a low ridge to witness the promised dose of Sea Lion sex and violence. Having made good time around the island, everyone had the opportunity to get to the back of Sandy Bay and admire the beach masters fighting, the females escaping, and to generally fawn over the pups. Back aboard the Spirit of Enderby we recapped the day in the bar, then swapped stories and shared photographs over another amazing meal. We retired with a feeling of excited anticipation for what we might see on the Snares.
Wednesday 11th January 2012: Snares Islands
48° 19'S
166°36'E
Air temperature: 13°C
Water temperature: 13°C
Wind: NW 7 mps 14 knots
By breakfast the Snares Island group was in view and a pod of 15 Dusky Dolphins were porpoising off the bow of the ship. On arrival at the Snares, conditions were perfect with quiet seas and full sun. While the Spirit of Enderby drifted off the Southern coast of the main Snares Island we took the opportunity to get all five zodiacs into the water. We cruised around South Promontory, through the gap between North East Island and Broughton Island, and in slightly choppier more exposed waters we continued up to Station Point. Rafts of returning Snares Crested Penguins arose in the water around us as we crept closer into Station Cove. We eased the boats in around Station Point which was littered with New Zealand Fur Seals, and had incredible views of the haul out area for the Snares Crested Penguin. From here smoothed trails headed up into the forest through Shore Hebe and into the forest of Tree Daisies.
Olearea lyallii was still in flower, and patches of the yellow bundles of flowers of Brachyglottis stewartiae could be seen on the skyline. We could see in the understory the massive, glossy leaves of Snares Punui, Stilbocarpa robusta which is a sister species of the Macquarie Island cabbage. We snuck into the small cove where the little green research station sits tucked amongst the Tree Daisies. Beside this inlet half a dozen Sea Lions relaxed and roared in the shallows while a very young Elephant Seal hauled itself onto the rocks in an effort to distance itself from both us and the Sea Lions. Within the forest and scrub, chirps and whistles from the endemic Snares Fernbird and Black Tomtit were heard and the latter eventually emerged to be seen from at least one zodiac. From Station Cove we returned south around Mollymawk Bay and back through the channel at South Promontory. Here we regained our hug of the coastline, watching for nest sites of the southern race of Buller's Albatross and the sporadic nests of Salvin's Albatross. Continuing along the coast we marvelled at swathes of Snares Punui, flocks of Sooty Shearwaters and the occasional Fur Seal or Sea Lion. We crossed the channel from North East Island to Alert Stack and explored the east coast of Alert Stack as we waited for the Captain to reposition the Spirit of Enderby for our pick up. In all we had circumnavigated almost half of North East Island, an incredibly rare event, only made possible by the perfect conditions of the day.
Back aboard we had a late lunch, after which we settled in to listen to the Heritage Expeditions story. The company started out with a small bus tour through Central Otago, through to the first vessel, the first polar able vessel, to the present Spirit of Enderby. We were briefed on the extensive northern hemisphere cruising programme the ship follows in the Arctic summer. The distinct and very different flora and fauna in the setting of an active volcanic zone, accompanied by an enticing slide show, had many plotting a return to the ship. That evening in sight of Stewart Island, the chefs created an incredible buffet meal, and the noise in the bar wound up a notch, aided by our training in the correct practice of Russian vodka consumption. Midnight ticked over and for a few the fun continued into the wee small hours, though most turned in for our last night at sea.
Thursday 12th January 2012: Bluff
We awoke in Bluff Harbour to a beautiful cool morning. Breakfast over, bags were once again labelled and the farewells began. Rowley had the pleasure of practicing his autograph as boxes of his books were handed over to keen readers, and plans were set for future meetings in far off places. At 8.30 we waved as the bus pulled away from the ship, sad and just a little deflated that our thoroughly fantastic seven days in the Subantarctic with a very rewarding group of enthusiasts was at an end. Here's hoping that at least some of us will meet again in New Zealand's southernmost isles.
