HA230320A: Grand Pacific Odyssey: A Tropical Pacific Island Cruise from New Zealand to Japan

GRAND PACIFIC ODYSSEY

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

20 March - 17 April 2023

Day 1
Monday 20 March
Auckland

Arriving in Auckland, the City of Sails, we make our way to the Grand Millennium Hotel before transferring to the Port of Auckland where our home away from home Heritage Adventurer waits for us to board her. Welcomed aboard we are shown to our rooms and settle in before we set sale for the Hauraki Gulf.

Day 2
Tuesday, 21 March 2023
Great Barrier and northern Hauraki Gulf

Our first day of expedition kicked off with New Zealand's famous Great Barrier Island as Heritage Adventurer made her stop in the Hauraki Gulf. Following breakfast, we assembled for a 0745 departure by Zodiac ashore to Glenfern Sanctuary.

The sanctuary offered various track options. We gathered partway up the lower track, near the visitors' centre, where the keen-eyed birders among us had already spotted Banded Rail, several Kereru and a Kaka - the latter two species feeding in a large guava tree near the house. From here the various self-guided walk options - some easier than others - took us up to Sunset Lookout with its magnificent views of the harbour below, and then into the surrounding forest, on up to a large kauri tree sited in the head of a steep gully near the top of the tracks.

Kauri forest once covered Great Barrier, but the trees were extensively logged in the past because of their timber value. Today much of the canopy is a monoculture of manuka and kanuka - two 'nursery species' which provide ideal protective cover for the multitude of kauri, rimu, totara, and tanekaha (celery pine) seedlings, raised and planted out by conservationist (and famed yachtsman) Tony Bouzaid.

The thousands of trees Tony planted out, and the massive predator campaign he pioneered here are a testament to his vision, all of which was subsequently outlined back on board the ship by local reserve ranger Steve in his illustrative talk.

Shortly after Steve's informative talk we upped anchor and set sail for our next destination, the Mokohinau Islands, to view New Zealand's only resident Grey Ternlets roosting on a tiny rock stack. This was followed by observations of the exceedingly rare, and only recently re-discovered New Zealand Storm-petrel. Those fortunate among us would have seen in excess of 10 of the tiny seabirds before we headed off into New Zealand's Bay of Islands on course for further adventure.

Day 3
Wednesday, 22 March 2023
Bay of Islands

It was a bright and early morning as Heritage Adventurer anchored off in Russell at the beautiful Bay of Islands. Many of us clambered into three Zodiacs for a leisurely trip across the bay and along the coastal areas off Waitangi. The calm conditions allowed us to inspect the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where the first accord between the British Crown and the Maori people was signed in 1840. We had good views of the beautifully manicured lawns and woodlands, the Treaty House with its historic naval flagstaff, and the boathouse with its two beautiful ceremonial Maori wakas, double-hulled sea-going canoes.

We then recrossed the bay to the public quayside at Russell. Formerly known as the "hell hole of the Pacific" for its lawlessness, nowadays Russell is a picturesque coastal town with a lovely waterfront area. Several guests headed up Maiki Hill along a lovely forest track to the site of the infamous flagstaff. The original flagstaff was toppled four times in 1844-1845 by Maori who had become disenchanted after their expectations were not realised in the years following signature of the Treaty of Waitangi. The panoramic view at the top of the hill was well worth the short walk, and the information boards added useful detail about this important historic site.

There was time in Russell to shop in the stores dotting the waterfront and to visit the delightful museum and the Pompallier Mission, as well as the historical Anglican church, which dates back to 1835 and currently is the oldest surviving church in New Zealand. By mid-morning the wind had picked up, causing a bit of a chop on the sea. Guests were transferred back to the ship beginning 1100 and finishing with the last group at 1230, fuelled by a last-minute run to source freshly made spring rolls from a nearby cafe for the return trip.

The ship hauled anchor during lunch and we headed off on the leg to Norfolk Island. There was time for some sea-watching after lunch before Rod Morris presented a personal account of the devastating impact of introduced predators on New Zealand wildlife to explain the efforts that have been made over recent decades to reverse these impacts. Dinner was accompanied by a glorious sunset over the northern tip of North Island.

Day 4
Thursday, 23 March 2023
At sea en route to Norfolk Island

This was our first full sea day, providing an opportunity to adapt to life on Heritage Adventurer. In the morning, Chris Todd gave an informative presentation on Norfolk Island, regaling the island's tale of explorers, mutineers and convicts. Supplementing this 'taster', Part 1 of the 1984 film The Bounty was screened in the lounge in the afternoon. This movie dramatised the story of Lieutenant Bligh, whose cruelty led to a mutiny on his ship. The movie was enjoyed with popcorn!

Day 5
Friday, 24 March 2023
Norfolk Island

We got up in the dark and peered out toward the breakwater at Kingston, the southern end of the island. The sky was teeming with terns and the symmetrical Norfolk pines were silhouetted against the sky. However, the whole shoreline had a heavy southwest surf break overwhelming the landing. Instead, we headed around the pretty south east coast, past basalt cliffs topped with pines and dotted with houses, to Cascade Bay.

"Watawieh?" (How are you?) was one of the first words that we heard on landing at Cascade Pier. It was spoken in Norf'k, a hybrid dialect between old Tahitian and old English language, and reflects the fact that about a third of the islanders are descended from the mutineers of the Bounty and their Tahitian partners.

Once the birding party had left, the rest of us boarded utes and a bus to drive into town and meet Rachel our guide. What a treat! Rachel proved to be a complete polymath, shifting seamlessly between Georgian architecture, sea-wall engineering, the island's penal history at Kingston, ethnobotany, ornithology, island culture and current politics; namely the uneasy relationship between the islanders and the Australian Commonwealth over self-governance and taxes.

We stopped at St Barnabas Chapel, with its superb architecture; vaulted ceilings in the design of a ship's hull; and stone walls variously made from coral from the island, limestone from New Zealand, and sandstone and marble from Europe. The New Zealand Kauri pews had been beautifully inlaid by Solomon Islanders with Melanesian and Celtic motifs and local birds.

We rounded off the trip with morning tea in the Botanic Gardens: coffee, wild cherry guava, local bananas (locally called 'plun') and home-made coconut cake (equal parts coconut, milk, flour and sugar). Our wander amongst the garden's shady palm, pine and Meryta forest was over all too soon! We then bid farewell to our generous hosts and made our way through choppy swells back to the ship.

Day 6
Saturday, 25 March 2023
At sea en route to New Caledonia

After our very enjoyable time on Norfolk Island yesterday, today found us on the high seas en route to the port of Noumea in New Caledonia. The morning greeted us with calm seas and cloudy skies. Around 0700 some of us were lucky to spot several dolphins just off the bow of our Heritage Adventurer.

As usual, our serious birders were busy scanning the ocean for seabirds and we were very happy to spot a number of different Storm-petrels as well as White-tailed Tropicbirds.

Our expedition guide, Chris Todd, provided us with an introduction to the highlights of New Caledonia, where we will go ashore tomorrow. Then came a lecture from Matt Jones who highlighted the plight of the many seabirds that fall victim to long line fishing.

During an extended recap session our Chris Collins introduced us to the many different birds we hope to see during our visit to New Caledonia. The day finished with yet another delicious dinner.

Day 7
Sunday, 26 March 2023
New Caledonia

This morning while at sea off the main fringing reef of New Caledonia, the birders recorded many Wedge-tailed Shearwaters, White-winged Petrel, Gould's Petrel, and a lone Red-footed Booby.

The pilot from Noumea came on board shortly after lunch and guided us through the reef entrance, then up through the lagoon to a very elegant and modern port.

While the birders headed off for Mt Panie to spot island endemics, the rest of us decided to head by bus to the Thibault Cultural Centre, with its magnificent soaring architecture, reminiscent of the great sails of the ocean voyaging canoes, surrounded as they were by 30 to 60-metre tall spires of 'Cooks Pine', Araucaria columnaris.

From there we then moved on to the Parc Forestier, where Rod was keen to show us the Kagu - New Caledonia's famous, if rather eccentric looking, national bird. The Kagu only occurs in two forested regions of New Caledonia, living on the ground in the dry forests where it hunts for worms and other invertebrates. Roughly the size of a domestic chicken and a ghostly grey colour, it has a bright orange-red beak, legs, and an oversized crest on its head which it raises whenever excited or alarmed. Before we even entered the 'Kagu Forest' we could hear its puppy-like yapping cries. With more than four pairs to watch, everyone had ample opportunity to quietly watch the birds as they patrolled the forest like grey ghosts, occasionally raising their ridiculous crests in acknowledgement of neighbouring birds that came too close.

After leaving the Kagu display, we wandered along the 250-metre long path through the 'Valley of the Endemics' to see the New Caledonian Red-crowned Parakeet, Cloven-feathered Dove, New Caledonia Goshawk, Notu Pigeon (a giant fruit dove), the little Rousettus Flying Foxes, and the intelligent New Caledonian Crow which, unlike most birds, is able to fashion tools out of sticks and probe into crevices to catch their prey. We then headed back to the bus, past an array of planted endemic trees and shrubs, and returned to the ship, keen to explore this remarkable island again tomorrow.

Day 8
Monday, 27 March 2023
New Caledonia

This morning the ship was still quayside near the centre of Nouméa so we had an easy disembarkation via the gangway to join the tour bus with our driver Ina, and local tour guide Daniel. We proceeded by bus from the main island, Grand Terre, onto nearby Nouville over a small bridge. Nouville is the site of the old penitentiary where deported prisoners from France were housed from 1864 until it was closed in 1924. Some of the historic buildings associated with the penitentiary have been repurposed so we adjusted our tour to outside viewing. The area was relatively busy as it is located amongst the University of New Caledonia and other institutions. We then proceeded over the island to the scenic Kuendu Beach, where some of the guests watched tiny fish in the shallows being chased back and forth in a panic as (only slightly larger!) predatory fish darted in and out.

We resumed our tour of Nouméa and headed back to the main island for a stop at St Joseph's Cathedral. At the entrance we were enchanted to find two halves of a giant clam shell mounted on the wall. The cathedral was under renovation but we could still appreciate its towering structures and numerous stained-glass windows. Our next stop was the small Museum de la Ville in the town centre alongside Coconut Tree Square. The museum building served as a bank and town hall before being converted to a museum. Its three floors contained exhibits depicting the political and mining history in New Caledonia, as well as the contributions of New Caledonians during the First World War. Of amusement to some of the group were the exhibits on the top floor which displayed more contemporary items dating back to the 1960s. As we recognised familiar objects including appliances, furniture, vinyl records and a collection of Barbie dolls, we realised that many of us might be considered museum pieces for that exhibit!

After a pleasant hour in the air-conditioned museum our tour left the city centre to proceed along the coastline of Anse Vata Bay under beautiful sunny skies. Although the pedestrian walkway was busy, the seaside beaches were eerily quiet because of a current ban on bathing following several shark attacks in previous months. We drove up to a scenic viewpoint at the top of Ouen Toro Mount where two abandoned US Naval guns from World War II stand next to a contemporary military installation. We then headed down to a seafront restaurant for a delicious (and very filling) lunch, before proceeding back to the ship.

The ship left Nouméa mid-afternoon and sailed for several hours within the outer reef. There was lovely scenery on both sides of the ship as the pilot navigated the complex bathymetry. Many of us on deck were treated to a host of seabirds and the sharp-eyed among us also spotted several flying fish and sea snakes.

Day 9
Tuesday, 28 March 2023
At sea en route to the Solomon Islands

Heritage Adventurer slowly headed north leaving New Caledonia behind us. The birders enjoyed this sea day, as new species were added to the ever-increasing species list. Chris gave a fascinating introduction to the Solomon Islands, which whetted our appetite for exploring our next destination.

In preparation for outdoor activities, we were given a briefing on snorkelling including some safety information about signals to use if in difficulty. This was followed by a lively scramble for the right-sized fins, as each guest was issued with masks, snorkel and fins for the upcoming snorkelling opportunities in the Solomons.

As another day drew to a close we were treated to an absolutely stunning sunset surrounded by a calm glassy sea, entertained by a young red-footed booby chasing flying fish at the bow of the vessel.

Day 10
Wednesday, 29 March 2023
At sea en route to the Solomon Islands

Light SE trade winds, partly cloudy & about 30°C. Flying fish escaping from the ship's path were a source of fascination today. They emerge from the water flicking their oar-shaped lower tail rapidly from side to side, spread their enlarged pectoral and sometimes ventral fins like wings and take to the air, sailing across the wind just above the surface of the water for 100-200 metres and often much further. If they are desperate not to get back in the water they touch down again with the base of their tail and propel themselves back into flight. Unfortunately for them their predators are not only under water: we watched a Red-footed Booby circling the ship's bow swoop down behind a flying fish and snatch it in the air. It then flicked the fish back into the air, re-caught it head first and, with some difficulty, swallowed it whole.

Photographing flying fish is not for the easily distracted: they emerge from the water without warning and rapidly head away from the ship. In spite of this, a number of people took excellent photographs and were able to showcase their beautiful wing-fins, ranging from chequered patterns, translucent, to bright yellow bands and leading edges. We spent the morning sailing past the Vanuatu island of Espiritu Santo, its forested mountains shrouded by low cloud. Meanwhile, some of us practiced our snorkelling in the swimming pool with the snorkel and fins we were issued yesterday.

Coleen gave a fascinating lecture called 'Lighting up the Ocean', about marine bioluminescence in organisms ranging from angler fish to jellyfish to bacteria. Later Peter gave a presentation on seabirds, explaining why they are such amazing creatures.

Chris Collins introduced the birds of the Santa Cruz Islands at recap before we adjourned for another beautiful meal in the dining room, followed by the bird log.

Day 11
Thursday, 30 March 2023
Nendo Island, Santa Cruz archipelago

We had an early start today with breakfast available from 0500. The first Zodiac departed for the shores of Nendo Island (also known as Santa Cruz Island) while it was still dark to pick up the Solomon Island Customs and Immigration officials.

We had been advised that today would be an expedition day because the exact location of the site where birders would be able to do birdwatching was yet to be clearly identified.

By 0600 Heritage Adventurer had been cleared and we were ready to go ashore in calm conditions. The drop off point for the birders was in a shallow and picturesque inlet and from all accounts they had a great time ashore and saw most of the endemic birds they had come so far to see.

The rest of us went ashore at a different site and were transported by local transport to an area around 1.5-kilometres away where they were treated to a very warm welcome by the locals who performed traditional dances for them. All were invited to participate in the dancing and our dance moves caused much laughter among the hundreds of people witnessing them.

Some of us walked back to the landing site while others climbed back on the local transport for the short trip. The locals had prepared another dance performance as well as a display of their numerous handicraft items. Many of us bought some as souvenirs and also enjoyed a refreshing drink of coconut water straight from freshly cut coconuts.

After leaving Nendo we enjoyed observing looking Mount Tinakula, an active volcano, where recent lava flows could clearly be seen on one side of the mountain.

We enjoyed an afternoon of beautiful sunshine and flying fish before a tropical rain shower brought us inside where we listened with great interest to the talk by Suzanne on the 'Kastom' of the people of the Solomon Islands.

A great day was rounded off by yet another delicious dinner prepared by our galley team.

Day 12
Friday, 31 March 2023
Makira, Solomon Islands

Our birding friends had long departed this morning before the rest of us headed ashore at 0730 onto Frigate Island. We were greeted by many people from the neighbouring islands, all keen to sell their carvings and other products, and learned that despite the number of people only a small group of 10 family members actually lived here on the island. One of the elders kindly took the birders, with Rod, off into the forest.

Frigatebirds roost and nest on the island, hence its name. They nest in the tall Casuarina trees behind the beach, just inside the edge of the forest, although the Frigates themselves were strangely absent. Everywhere in the forest there were signs of how the guano from the Frigatebirds enriched the thin coral soils and benefitted other animals and the plants. Bird's Nest ferns (Asplenium) were abundant in the trees while the ground was speckled with white droppings and tiny land crabs everywhere. Rod demonstrated how to sex the crabs - on their underside the tail of the male crab is shaped like a lighthouse, whereas the female crab's tail is broad and rounded to carry the eggs.

With such rich soil fertility, the area up behind the beaches was littered with germinating coconut and Barringtonia seedlings, the buoyant seeds of which had floated here from other islands. Mangroves grew in patches just off the beach, and the Bird's Nest fern trees behind the beach were festooned with bunches of black crow butterflies, eagerly feeding on the powdery dry salts of the Frigatebird droppings, splashed on branches.

So everywhere we saw indications of the benefits that Frigatebirds have bought to the island, but of the Frigatebirds themselves we saw nothing! As our birding companions would say, if you want to see Frigatebirds before they fly off to fish at sea all day, you need to get up early.

After a pleasant time in the forest we returned to the beach for a snorkel in the refreshingly pleasant waters, sharing fun and games with the local children who had been given a day off school. Then just before lunch we headed back on board, and set sail for tomorrow's destination.

Day 13
Saturday, 1 April 2023
Honiara, Guadalcanal

We woke this morning off Honiara, the capital of the Solomon Islands located on the island of Guadalcanal. Heritage Adventurer was unusually quiet because two thirds of the guests had departed long before sunrise for a birding foray into island forest. We left the ship at a leisurely pace and were taken by Zodiac to the quayside over a calm sea under blue skies. The group was loaded into two buses for a sightseeing tour around the town, accompanied by local guides, Chris and Steve. The first stop was at the National Museum, where we found several fascinating exhibits explaining local practices and Kastom (custom). Of interest was an explanation of how red feather money was made, especially as we previously had seen examples of this in Nendo. The process involves three specialists and is non-lethal, with a few feathers being taken from each bird caught.

Our next stop, Honiara Central Market, was bustling with locals stocking up on fresh produce for the weekend. We wandered through the market and couldn't resist purchasing some of the offerings, returning to the buses with nuts, bananas and inkori (Spondias dulcis), a delicious tropical fruit that was unfamiliar to most of us. We then moved on to the US Memorial on Skyline Ridge, which honours those from the USA and Allied nations who lost their lives during the Guadalcanal Campaign of World War II (7 August 1942 - 9 February 1943). We were privileged to also visit the National Parliament, where we were given the political history of the Solomon Islands and allowed into the public gallery overlooking the parliamentary chamber.

A slow bumpy drive along dusty pot-holed roads took us past Henderson Field which was a former military airfield from World War II. Today the area is occupied by the Honiara International Airport, but it was originally built by the Japanese Empire and conflict over its possession was one of the ongoing battles of the Pacific War. Our journey terminated at Amazing Grace, a newly-opened agritourism enterprise established by Grace Fekau, a cocoa farmer from Makira. Here we were shown some of the elements used in processing cocoa and traditional food preparation methods, before being treated to a meal of traditional foods.

A group of dancers demonstrated a water dance in the nearby ocean, and we were enticed to buy some of the value-added cocoa products. Grace's business has been built with a focus on environmental sustainability and this was evident in the wide use of natural materials. Our tour ended with a Zodiac cruise back to the ship for a late lunch. Heritage Adventurer lifted anchor mid-afternoon and we headed off towards our next stop, Tetepare.

Day 14
Sunday, 2 April 2023
Tetepare and Rendova Island, Solomon Islands.

Today we awoke in the channel between Tetepare and Rendova Islands in the New Georgia group of the Solomons. Tetepare is set aside as a reserve island, so anticipation was high for a great morning ashore. After a slow commute through the fringing corals, we arrived at a small clearing teeming with birdlife as well as numerous lumbering monitor lizards. New birds were ticked off thick and fast, with most people seeing the first of many exquisite White-capped Monarchs and Claret-breasted Fruit-doves. Small parties of Dark-eyed White-eyes were common, while many of us encountered a local pair of Beach Kingfishers and a friendly Melanesian Megapode.

Team Bird went ashore to Tetepare Island just before first light, gingerly navigating through the coral reef toward our hosts' torchlight on shore. Local guides took the birders along forest paths before returning them to the rangers' base.

Meanwhile the rest of us enjoyed breakfast and were introduced to the island in a more traditional manner with an 'ambush' by warriors armed with spears, peace-making, dancing and a welcome speech by Mary, one of the traditional custodians.

Mary told us about how Tetepare Island came to be the largest uninhabited tropical island in the Pacific. In the early 1900s its inhabitants, not numerous to begin with, were head-hunted and eaten by other tribes. A number of the women escaped by dugout canoe and were subsequently married to men on neighbouring islands. Their descendants decided not to return to the island, but to set it aside as an uninhabited place; today it serves as a nature reserve for ecotourism.

A number of local carvers from Rendova Island had set up a market for us on Tetepare. Their carvings featured exquisitely inlaid bowls and masks, beautifully carved turtles, manta rays, dolphins, fish and many other items.

After lunch the birders headed to Rava Point on Rendova Island while the more experienced snorkellers among us could visit the stunning reefs off Tetepare, or join in Rendova to bird around Suki Ecolodge. There were a series of beautiful coral bombies next to a drop-off into 200-metres of water in the Balfour Chanel and beautiful fish amongst the coral, with a reef shark and large Manta Ray passing by. The latter lodge is set in an area of tall uncut forest and offered better views of Kolombangara Monarchs and White-winged Fantails than what most of us had on Tetepare Island.

By late afternoon everyone was on Rendova Island, strolling through towering forest trees or simply enjoying the breeze on wooden bench seats down by the jetty. The locals served us fresh coconuts as the evening grew more and more pleasant. We headed back to the ship at dusk, reluctant to leave this beautiful place. The sun set behind massive thunderheads as our Zodiacs motored slowly back to Heritage Adventurer.

Day 15
Monday, 3 April 2023
Kolombangara Island

Our day started very early with the birders taken ashore to a landing site on Kolombangara Island at 0515 while it was still dark.

Our group followed around 0800 but had the benefit of being able to get views of tropical rainforest on one side of the road and of eucalyptus plantations on the other. The island is divided into several zones that include conservation at the higher altitudes (above 400-metres) administered by KIBCA (Kolombangara Island Biodiversity Conservation Association) and managed forestry at the lower elevations.

Local guides took small groups of us on short walks into the rainforest where we were introduced to plants that are used for medicinal purposes. A plethora of birds were seen and some of us were lucky to spot the multicoloured Monkey Grasshopper. Rod enlightened us about ant plants and the many different orchids that we were able to enjoy. By mid-morning it was time to head back to the landing site.

At the landing site we were greeted by a local band of young men who played Solomon Island tunes on instruments made of plastic piping, recycled after a recent cyclone. While the men were playing the pipes the women sang for us in beautiful voices. We also had a chance to buy locally made wooden carvings.

On our way back to the ship we could observe the loading of timber onto the Panama-registered vessel Microchip. The gangway of our ship was visited by women in a canoe and our purser was able to obtain beautiful fresh flowers that now decorate the lounge. In the afternoon Coleen informed us about the many negative impacts caused by ocean acidification, a result of climate change.

The day ended with yet another delicious meal before it was time for bed.

Day 16
Tuesday, 4 April 2023
Kolombangara / Hambere Village and Ranongga Island, New Georgia Group

Yesterday we learned that we would be unable to land at Chuuk in Micronesia, but fortunately our intrepid Expedition Leader arranged an extra day in the Solomon Islands.

At 0600 this morning the birders departed the ship for a morning's birding ashore, hoping in particular to catch views of the Roviana Rail, which was seen by so few yesterday. Then at 0730 we were joined by a smaller team of birders for an extended Zodiac cruise along the edge of some beautiful mangrove forest bordering an inland channel running along the coast. Chris Todd explained the important role that mangroves play in protecting from coastal land erosion, as well as their significance as habitat for biodiversity, and as a nursery for fish species.

We slowly cruised along, enjoying good views of Sacred Kingfisher, sea eagle (osprey), Eclectus parrots, pigeons, and Hornbills, plus small flocks of the startlingly bright red, and noisy, Crimson Lories. At one point we entered a narrower side-channel, where mangroves, and palms closed in overhead, and the saltwater transitioned into fresh, as we quietly journeyed past patches of introduced water hyacinth in search of the Pygmy Kingfisher. And so from there, we headed back along the main channel at a faster clip, and landed on the beach at Hambere Village, where there were songs, and dancing, plus weaving and food preparation demonstrations. Some of us ventured further inland through the village on a walk, admiring orchids and the tropical fruits growing in the gardens, before we all headed back to Heritage Adventurer at 1100.

By mid afternoon, after the ship had repositioned to Ranongga and the birders had headed ashore, we headed out by Zodiac for a spot of snorkelling. Yet another great day's adventures in the friendly Solomon Islands.

Day 17
Wednesday, 5 April 2023
At sea off Bougainville and New Ireland

Today was an at-sea day as the ship steamed northwards towards our equatorial crossing, planned for the following day. The weather was warm and the seas calm, but people out on deck had to seek refuge to escape several showers. The decks outside were busy with birders, and we enjoyed spectacular displays of aerial skill as Boobies pursued and caught flying fish disturbed by the ship's passing.

Indoors, Peter presented a talk on plastic pollution in the oceans, highlighting some of the local and global impacts and suggesting some solutions for mitigation. An afternoon documentary on islands and wildlife of the South Pacific gave an opportunity to relive some moments from the past few days and to learn a bit more about places visited and sights seen.

At dinner, Jewish passengers on board were able to mark the Jewish Passover holiday and the start of Pesach with a traditional meal prepared by the ship's kitchen. There was much frivolity and singing at their table as they enjoyed one another's company in celebration.

Day 18
Thursday, 6 April 2023
Crossing the Equator at sea

Chris counted down from 10 to zero on the ship's PA. The moment the ship crossed the Equator the Captain sounded a long blast of Heritage Adventurer's horn and we toasted the occasion. Neptune suddenly appeared in our midst on the monkey deck, bedecked in horned sunglasses, draped in soft toys, wearing a backward baseball cap, surgical mask and surf shorts, and wielding a huge trident in one hand and a giant scrubbing brush in the other. He was truly a wild apparition as he proceeded to roar and scrub down uninitiated passengers and staff alike.

We passed the time variously at the ship's gift shop; doing games and puzzles in the forward Observation Lounge; listening to Frank's bird lecture on Pittas and Broadbills; watching another episode of the BBC South Pacific series, and wrapping up the day as usual with the Bird Log: 10 species today in spite of the quiet sea.

Day 19
Friday, 7 April 2023
At sea in the 'dead zone'

We awoke this morning to rain showers, which continued intermittently throughout the day. With bird sightings scarce for the birding group, inside the ship was busier than usual as birders joined us for indoor activities. The Wasgij station in the library was a popular meeting point as people drifted in to add a few pieces to the growing jigsaw puzzle and have a quiet chat with fellow guests. A beginner's game of Rummikub got some brains working and the new practitioners promised several return matches.

The morning was broken by a repeat lecture by Peter (on request) on Celebrating Seabirds. Outside, guests were entertained in the morning by Boobies that had appropriated the top deck as a resting place. In the afternoon Coleen gave a talk on the Invisible Ocean, describing the microorganisms that dominate the waters over which we were sailing. Known as the "dead zone" by the birders on board, she illustrated how it was in fact teeming with living organisms that are essential for supporting life on the planet.

In the late afternoon, two of the guests, Rafa and Ale, had put together a presentation on Photographing Seabirds. Presented by Rafa, the audience was treated to beautiful photos of seabirds as Rafa explained his motivations and objectives behind each shot, and conveyed the passion he has for both seabirds and photography. This talented couple are busy working on a book that will contain several of the pictures we were privileged to view.

The day ended with a recap in which Frank spoke about the elusive Beck's Petrel, and Suzanne challenged the guests with their understanding of nautical terms, including the one used for first-timers crossing the equator by boat: Pollywogs!

Day 20
Saturday, 8 April 2023
Cruising through Micronesia (East Caroline Basin, North Pacific Ocean)

These relaxing days at sea remind us landlubbers that the majority of the planet's surface is ocean. That the ocean is not just an inconvenience to pass through, getting from Point A to Point B, but an endless source of fascination and contemplation in its own right; its chemistry, role in the weather and carbon cycle; the strangeness and diversity of the organisms it supports; and the extraordinary complexity of its food-webs, from the tiniest nanoorganisms through to the largest animal that ever lived, the blue whale.

The morning sea was calm with a Brown-footed Booby hovering close off the back deck, dragging the photographers with it from one side of the ship to the other. At mid-morning we sighted land; a tiny, green, low-lying atoll named Pulusuk. It supports a small village, a freshwater lake, and an airstrip. We spotted a moulting bird on the water that may have been a Beck's Petrel, and circumnavigated Pulusuk to get a better look at it. A few birders spotted cetaceans in the distance Pantropical Spotted Dolphins and possibly False Killer Whales.

Our afternoon was soon full of bird action: we could see the white spray created as large predatory fish drove schools of baitfish to the surface. This attracted big aggregations of White Terns, Black & Brown Noddies, Wedge-tail Shearwaters and more that we could see wheeling and swooping on the baitfish. Further out on the horizon we could see huge surf crashing on a just-submerged coral reef.

Suzanne, who has spent a lot of time in the Pacific, gave a fascinating talk entitled 'Betel Nut (Buai): The Search for Green Gold' followed by a guest lecture about the birds of Papua New Guinea, generously presented by Matt. Dinner was served after another screening of the BBC series South Pacific: Ocean of Volcanoes before it was time for bed.

Day 21
Sunday, 9 April, 2023
At sea between Micronesia and the Mariana Islands

Easter Sunday found us sailing west of the Mariana Islands in calm and sunny conditions. In the early morning some of us took the opportunity to do some Qigong on deck. Later we listened to a talk by Thomas that outlined how his prolonged exposure to the beauty of Antarctica had led him and his wife to purchase a conservation block of rainforest near Mission Beach. This talk was nicely balanced in the afternoon when Charles, one of our guests, gave a presentation with the challenging topic: What is Nature?

The highlight of the day was the scavenger hunt as several teams were sent all over the ship to look for clues to find a hidden treasure.

In the evening we enjoyed a delicious Easter dinner and were pleasantly surprised to find a chocolate Easter egg on our pillows.

All in all, a quiet and relaxing day on the high seas

Day 22
Monday, 10 April 2023
At sea off the Mariana Islands

A very special day at sea! This morning while some of us joined Robyn for morning Qigong as we passed over the southern end of the Mariana Trench, 200-kilometres east of the Mariana Islands. This is the deepest oceanic trench on Earth, with its maximum depth at this southern end - almost 11-kilometres deep!

While we could only imagine what creatures lived down there, life on the ocean's surface kept the birders on the monkey deck happy. Here they enjoyed the spectacle of three species of Booby - 'tropical gannets'- that were attracted to the ship by the flying fish, regularly disturbed beneath the bow - leaping out of the water to skitter across the ocean's surface exposing themselves to the Boobies overhead.

It was interesting to see the different techniques the three Booby species employed. The Red-footed Boobies chased the flying fish across the ocean surface and snatched the fish in flight. The heavier Brown Boobies attempted the same strategy from time to time, but also snatched already captured flying fish from the smaller Red-foots. The largest species - the Masked Boobies - fold back their wings as they dive, entering the water like an arrow and capture their prey up to 10-metres below the surface. Then, they pop up like corks to swallow their prey back on the surface. Peter wondered whether the paler morph of the Red-footed Boobies might enjoy more success than the darker coloured Red-foots at capturing flying fish in flight, which might be easier to see against the bright sky. Certainly, in other seabirds there seems to be a relationship between plumage colour and the successful capture of prey. For example, White Reef-herons have better success on white coral beaches than dark plumaged Reef-herons.

Before lunch Rod gave his Island Magic talk about evolution on islands, and mid-afternoon Hadass talked about her art as many of us enjoyed a brief respite from being out in the bright sun.

Day 23
Tuesday, 11 April
At sea off the northern Mariana Islands

Early risers found the weather hadn't really changed overnight with choppy waters, a relatively strong wind, and scattered showers. This did not deter the birders or the Qigong enthusiasts who aggregated on the monkey deck for a short session to start the day.

Sailing past the Northern Mariana chain of islands, we spied the impressive 976-metre-high Agrihan Island, followed by the slightly lower Asuncion Island a few hours later. Throughout the day we were entertained by Red-footed and Brown Boobies circling the ship, the adults giving impressive aerial and diving displays as they watched for feeding opportunities around the boat. Before lunch Peter gave a presentation on the Pitcairn Islands which became home to many of the Bounty mutineers. This provided an interesting link for our visit to Norfolk Island early in the expedition, where descendants of Bounty mutineers comprise about 40% of the current-day population.

After lunch, we were treated to a fascinating guest lecture by Marc Guijt who described the six-year process of developing a bird identification guide that covered all plumages for each species in the Western Palearctic. In fulfilling his lifelong dream, Marc ably illustrated the amount of work that went into the project by his dedicated team of birders and photographers. This presentation was followed soon after by the screening of a documentary describing a birding journey in Colombia. Introduced by guest Alexandra Rendon Calle, the story was made more poignant by her personal connections to the makers of the film. Many of the audience are now eager to visit this beautiful country with its extraordinary diversity of birds.

The day finished with a lively recap as Peter provided some information he had gleaned on the Mariana islands we had passed, and Rod gave an entertaining description of colouration in organisms.

Day 24
Wednesday, 12 April 2023
At sea steaming towards the Volcano Islands

The birders were up at first light as is their custom; on the Monkey Deck, the Bridge 'wings', or the shady back of Deck 6 for those who prefer coffee & deck-chairs with their early-birding. Some of the must-sees for this last section of our voyage are albatross, with a good probability of seeing two species, and a low possibility of seeing a third. Others occupied themselves with books, games and puzzles, conversation, or simply watching the sea and sky.

Matt Jones gave a wry talk about living, working and birding (all the same thing to Matt) on his beloved Rakiura/Stewart Island. His account included helping to tag a Great White Shark that subsequently swam to Tonga and comes back each year, and footage he's taken of Tokoeka/Southern Brown Kiwi probing for grubs by day in the sand dunes of Rakiura.

Our guest presenter today was retired academic Gary, who gave a very informative talk about comprehensive ecosystem mapping and biodiversity conservation in his beloved Queensland.

Food has been a highlight of the voyage, as has putting on weight. For afternoon tea the Food & Beverage Team added the penultimate straw to the poor camel's back; providing food of such irresistible appeal and high calorific value that none could resist.

Meanwhile as we approached a very steep-sided seamount south of the Volcano Islands we enjoyed spectacularly close views of numerous Matsudaira's Storm-petrels, along with a single Tristram Storm-petrel.

A pod of False Killer Whales charged toward the ship late in the day, but disappeared all too quickly. Dusk was beautifully balmy as Boobies encircled the bow before we retired for recap and dinner.

Day 25
Thursday, 13 April 2023
Chichijima

Today we were heading north towards Chichijima as the morning greeted us with foggy conditions and poor visibility. We had left the warmth of the tropics far behind and it started to get progressively cooler. Some of the birders could be seen on the Monkey Deck wearing down jackets - what a contrast to a few days ago when the temperature was well above 30°C.

A lone Sperm Whale was sighted logging on the surface, and the ship altered course so that we could get a better view but unfortunately it dived and was not seen again. Coleen gave a talk in the morning on Movers and Drifters in the Ocean, describing the largest migration on earth when organisms migrate vertically on a daily basis, and the host of organisms that drift at the ocean surface. The afternoon's guest presenter was Denzil Morgan describing his quest to see 100,000 birds.

The highlight of the day came in the late afternoon when we sailed along the rugged southern and eastern shoreline of the Japanese island of Chichijima. The island is the largest and most populous island in the Bonin or Ogasawara Islands and is located 240-kilometres north of Iwo Jima.

Many of us spent time on deck to enjoy the late afternoon sun and early evening light that illuminated the rocky shores of the island. Birders were very keen to spot the elusive Bryan's Shearwater. Expert opinions on the matter varied and at the time of writing the jury was still out on whether one had been spotted or not.

Because of the beautiful scenery we were privileged to observe, recap was kept very brief and shortly after we were treated to yet another beautifully prepared and presented dinner.

Day 26
Friday, 14 April 2023
At sea between the Bonin Islands and Torishima

Today we are at sea after passing the island of Chichijima at dusk last evening, and we are now on route to Torishima - expecting to arrive around midday tomorrow.

A Humpback Whale was spotted in the distance this morning and we have also attracted a juvenile Red-footed Booby which rested on the bow for much of the day, and indeed stayed on overnight. A handful of Brown Boobies persisted through the day, plus a couple of Black-footed Albatross in the distance.

Later in the day Peter began reporting other strange objects floating by on the ocean's surface. These were scattered small groups of By-the-wind Sailors (Velella velella), and Violet Snails (Janthina sp), molluscs the size of garden snails, but a beautiful violet in colour, drifting by beneath their floating bubble rafts.

Talks today included Frank speaking on Threatened Land Birds of the Asia Pacific Region, one of the guests, Robyn, talked about her experiences in Nature Journaling, and Rod talked about Taxonomy- the Importance of a Name.

Day 27
Saturday, 15 April 2023
Torishima Island

The morning started with beautiful weather on deck as Heritage Adventurer made her way towards Torishima Island. Soon, Short-tailed and Black-footed Albatrosses were being spied at a distance, a prelude to the close-up views later enjoyed by all as we reached the island. After arriving we enjoyed a slow circumnavigation of the island, allowing plenty of time to appreciate the amazing displays of colour in the geological formations. Almost all guests were out on deck for several hours, taking in the island sights and enjoying the seabirds and Humpback Whales, which obligingly indulged in fin-slapping, full breaching and spy-hopping. At a rough guess, we decided that at least 50,000 photographs were taken during the day!

After lunch we sadly left the island and headed north. To celebrate the amazing morning, the hospitality staff provided cocktails and hot cherries and ice-cream outside on the bistro deck. The festivities attracted a curious Humpback Whale, which approached the ship and hung around for a while.

In the late afternoon Peter gave a presentation on the New Zealand Subantarctic Islands and showcased their unique flora and fauna. After dinner, Matt Jones challenged teams of guests with quiz questions about things learnt during the expedition. Aike kicked off the quiz evening by performing a beautiful traditional dance to provide context for the first question: which country did she come from? The very enjoyable evening ended with the expedition team attempting charade skits for the bemused guests.

Day 28
Sunday 16 April
At sea, en route to Yokohama

After the high of yesterday's visit to Torishima, many thought today's cruise through the Izu Islands would be something of an anti-climax especially as gale force winds were forecast. Fortunately weather remained mostly sunny despite the steadily rising wind, which soon had the sea in a frenzy of crashing whitecaps - by far the largest seas we had seen. The waves crashing past the restaurant windows at lunch made for amusing entertainment as Heritage Adventurer rode comfortably and, apart from a few lurches here and there, we barely noticed the increased motion.

The early morning was characterised by several lost land-birds along with a Cattle Egret that visited the ship yesterday morning. A Black-crowned Night-heron circled the ship, calling, while a Barn Swallow and an Eyebrowed Thrush briefly landed. After that excitement, there was a steady passage of Streaked Shearwaters, and their numbers grew ever greater as we approached the islands. By the time we reached Miyakejima there were rafts of Shearwaters dotted across the tumultuous ocean.

The ship's officers skillfully navigated the ship close to a spectacular series of rock stacks off the island where Japanese Murrelets breed, but we were not very optimistic to spot the birds in the rough seas. The strong wind made observations tricky, and the first Murrelets were spotted from the shelter of the Observation Lounge. Then, as we approached the lee of Niijima, we started seeing Murrelets on the water right next to us. It was amazing to see these tiny birds flying underwater in these wild waters. The ship also was visited by several Black-tailed Gulls - a particularly handsome species, with one even landing on the Bistro Deck, presumably hoping for some chips! A pleasant surprise was the regular passage of Short-tailed Albatrosses past the ship. It was a pleasure to see these large birds tossing around like Gadfly Petrels in the strong winds, and one was even buzzed by a Peregrine from the nearby island.

For those who had enough of the wind, Rod gave a lecture on rewilding a garden to attract wildlife. Then it was time for the Captain's farewell reception and dinner, after which the expedition slideshow was shown in the main lounge.

Day 29
Monday, 17 April
Arriving in Yokohama

It was an early start for those wanting to experience our arrival in Yokohama. With dawn before 0500, many birders were up to see if they could squeeze a few last birds from our voyage as we were overtaken by a procession of ships entering Tokyo Bay. Black-headed Gulls and Large-billed Crows accompanied our passage, and we docked at 0700. Then it was the time for fond farewells as we said goodbye to our many friends, old and new and embarked on our next adventures.