HA221114: New Zealand Coastal Odyssey: The Ultimate Cruise of the New Zealand Coast

NEW ZEALAND COASTAL ODYSSEY

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

14^th - 24^th November 2022

Day 1
14 November 2022
Auckland

Company co-founder Shirley Russ and guides Mike Sylvia and Chris Todd introduced themselves to us in the towering lobby of the Grand Millennium Hotel. We adjourned for dinner and were soon engrossed in conversation with those around us at table; our companions-to-be for the next 10 days on our New Zealand Coastal Odyssey voyage aboard Heritage Adventurer.

Day 2
15 November 2022
Auckland - Rotorua - Tauranga Harbour - Embarkation Heritage Adventurer

After an early breakfast we were on a bus by 0830, heading south against the flow of Auckland's commuter traffic. The sprawling city gradually gave way to fertile volcanic downs and market gardens. After a short stop at the quirky village of Tirau (public toilet located inside a corrugated iron sculpture of a dog!), we made our way to Rotorua to visit Te Puia, a Māori cultural and geothermal complex. After a buffet lunch our local guide Kahutia led us around the complex and gave us a very informative and personal narrative about the geothermal springs and geysers (unusually active during our visit), Māori culture, harakeke (flax) weaving, wood-carving school, meeting house and kiwi conservation.

We were on board Heritage Adventurer, our home away from home, by 1630, shown to our cabins, given a lifeboat drill and safety briefing, introduced to the expedition team and invited to a wonderful dinner in the aft dining room.

Day 3
16 November 2022
Gisborne

After a few bumps in the night rounding East Cape, we awoke to a calm but foggy dawn as Heritage Adventurer sailed south. By Breakfast the fog was breaking up revealing Tolaga Bay and Gable End Foreland. After a great lecture from Rod on New Zealand wildlife and their predators we dropped anchor at 1030 in preparation of an early lunch, and our afternoon ashore. With our first experience on the gangway under our belt we headed ashore where we were given a rousing welcome by a local kapa haka group from the Ngati Porou iwi before boarding the buses for our afternoon excursions.

Those that went to the Eastwoodhill - National Arboretum of New Zealand had a pleasant ride through the fertile plains of the badly named Poverty Bay. Tomatoes, grapes, kiwifruit and lucerne hay are all exported from the area and grow in profusion. Arriving at William Cook's Farm which is now the National Arboretum of New Zealand we were astonished to see what the passion and dedication of one man can achieve. The arboretum was started over 100 hundred years ago and contains the largest collection of Northern Hemisphere trees in the Southern Hemisphere including 170 species on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. After surviving the horrors of WWI 'Cookie', as the locals refer to him as, started to collect and plant specimens on his inland farm as he was certain the war would destroy the Northern Hemisphere. Our guide Prue, who Is one of the many volunteers of the trust overseeing the management of the arboretum, took us on an intriguing tour of the collection and the garden capping it off with a delicious afternoon tea.

Another group went to Waikereru Ecosanctuary and marvelled at the work that has been put into protecting local native species of flora and fauna for the purposes of conservation and education. We were shown around the 1769 garden which celebrated Captain Cook's first meeting with New Zealand Māori. Several species important to Māori were being cultivated with flax/harakeke and stylised kumara mounds made of rocks that supported many rare and unique species. The garden celebrated the works of Cook, Banks and Solander as well as the local gateway to the afterlife. The artwork, which interpreted the Claude Glass, was one of many that spanned the local Māori and European influence on this unique place.

By 1700 we were all back on board and setting course for Napier, the Art Deco capital of New Zealand.

Day 4
17 November 2022
Napier

At 0800 we arrived at the port of Napier, where Heritage Adventurer tied up alongside on this beautiful sunny morning. Having already eaten breakfast either in the Bistro or Dining Room, we were ready to join the two 20-seater buses waiting on the pier to take us on our adventure for the day. The buses departed the pier promptly at 0835 and we enjoyed a narrated driving tour of the historic downtown, which was rebuilt in the attractive Art Deco style after the devastating earthquake of 1931. Soon we found ourselves driving south on a country road lined with Norfolk pines, following the long coastline of Hawkes Bay. From our bus driver, we learned all about the local economy as we drove past vineyards and orchards and through the small farming communities of Clive and Clifton. We also learned the history of the area, including the story of the kidnapping/rescue of a Tahitian cabin boy by local Māori from Captain Cook's ship Endeavour while he visited the bay in 1769.

At 9:20, we arrived at the Cape Kidnappers Station, access to which is restricted to guided tours and guests of the exclusive lodge and world-famous golf course located therein. In addition to these attractions, the station contains the largest private wildlife sanctuary in New Zealand. A vermin-proof fence encloses the sanctuary and makes it virtually free of predators and rabbits. Upon passing through the gate, our driver put the bus in four-wheel drive for the remainder of our way along a narrow gravel road that wound steeply through the verdant hills. Along the way we encountered many sheep, cattle and wild turkey. We also passed some stock ponds, where we were happy to see native Paradise Shelducks with ducklings and a flock of rare, endemic Brown Teal.

At 1035 we arrived at our destination: the largest accessible mainland gannet colony in the world, boasting around 10,000 nesting pairs of Australasian Gannets. We were able to get within a few metres of one large nesting area, where parents were cooperatively raising large downy chicks. We watched in awe as the magnificent birds, resplendent in their white-and-black plumage, golden napes and striking blue eyes, circled fast over the colony before landing with remarkable precision next to their mate with food for the chick or seaweed for the nest. There was commotion and noise all the time, yet the scene was imbued with the peacefulness of nature. It was an amazing wildlife spectacle and a world-class birding experience.

After almost an hour at that amazing place, we boarded the buses and drove back along the winding dirt road through the sanctuary and out of the station. At 1215 we stopped at the headquarters of the tour company for a light lunch and relaxation. The delicious food really satisfied after a full morning of scenic driving and wildlife viewing. We were all particularly impressed by the huge local strawberries. We ate outside on picnic tables surrounded by trees filled with songbirds, including the melodious Bellbird and were on the road again by 1300.

At 1325, we arrived back to Napier, where those of us who weren't ready to go back to the ship were dropped off at the i-Site (information centre). From there we had the opportunity to explore the charming downtown area, replete with shops, cafes, parks, and a lovely walk along the pebbly beach. It was still mostly sunny, though a strong onshore wind had picked up. A shuttle bus took us back to Heritage Adventurer in time for sailing at 1600 sharp.

Later we enjoyed an excellent presentation by Glenda on the fascinating geology of New Zealand. Our recap this evening was given by Mike about the gannets and our expedition leader Nathan give us a briefing about tomorrow's activities in Marlborough Sounds before we enjoyed another amazing dinner in the Dining Room.

Day 5
18 November 2022
Marlborough

After a calm passage down the Wairarapa coast, dawn saw Heritage Adventurer off Cape Palliser and the deep-water trench that extends from Kaikoura with depths down to 2 kilometres. At 0900 Matt gave us a talk on the influence of the Southern Ocean on New Zealand and the planet. Followed by Chris with a great talk on Captain Cook and his voyages to New Zealand.

By 1130 we were abeam of the Brothers Islands with one of New Zealand's most remote and windy light houses. The island is also home to one of the last sanctuaries of the prehistoric Tuatara. By 1200 we had the pilot on board and were making our way to the anchorage in Ship Cove which was a favourite of Captain Cook who visited here four times in the late 1700s.

After lunch we took the Zodiacs ashore to look at Cook's monument and explore the tracks around the bay which are through lush native bush. Some ventured up the Queen Charlotte Track while others took in the peaceful atmosphere of the bay with a quiet rest under the trees. By 1500 we were transferred over to Motuara Island for a walk through the predator free forest and a great view from the top. By 1730 we were all back on board before the hard rain set in and we took our leave of this beautiful part of New Zealand, and back past the lonely sentinel of the Brothers Island and into to Cook Strait.

Day 6
19 November 2022
Akaroa

Gently rocked by an easterly swell overnight, we enjoyed a sleep in and breakfast at 0800. Mike, already out on the deck, had spotted a lone Cape Petrel circling the ship, with plenty of good views of Hutton's Shearwaters and the odd juvenile Buller's Albatross and Sooty Shearwaters. At 0930 we had Mike's presentation on Pelagic seabirds as we neared the Akaroa Heads. He explained pelagic birding as very different than birding on the land - it's exciting and challenging, lighting is often difficult either being very dull or very bright, the movement of the ship often adding to the challenge. Viewing of the birds is often at a distance with birds often briefly being seen in flight and consequently the trick is to know wing shape and colour patterns - but it's a lot of fun. Often birds pass unidentified. Photography helps as you can check images more closely afterward. Mike explained the trick is to relax and enjoy it as you go.

He then ushered us out on deck to do some pelagic bird watching and it was great weather for it. Entering the harbour around Banks Peninsula we were escorted by small groups of Hector's Dolphins and flocks of White-fronted Terns.

Akaroa was settled by the French in 1840 a source of some controversy for a while clashing Māori and British settlers. Our first cruise at 1245 was up to Onawe Peninsula where a Ngai Tahu pa, as well as 40 minute climb to a magnificent view of Akaroa Harbour. Others visited the historical village of Akaroa with its boutique shops, small museum and cafes.

The Wild Fibers group headed out to a working sheep farm at Pohatu Bay. Many of us were back on board, wet but contented with our afternoon adventures by 1530, just in time for a wine tasting in the bar from a local vineyard called French Peak; a boutique organic vineyard. Where we were fortunate to sample 4 of their limited-edition wines: a 2020 Pinot Noir, a 2021 Chardonnay, a 2022 Rose, as well as a 2022 Pinot Gris - together with a selection of cheese and crackers. Sergio, our maître d', explained "strong cheese with strong wine, mild cheese with light wine and washing the palate with a sip of water in between". By 1730 the remaining guests were back on board and at 1830 we had the day's recap and briefing to discuss today's experiences and book ahead to our plans for tomorrow.

Day 7
20 November 2022
Dunedin

We departed Dunedin Wharf by bus and headed off to the land of 'Rod' to see and hear about the Otago Peninsula. Rod has lived here for 40 years. Along our journey out onto the peninsula we would learn of the conservation efforts to restore the landscape. Our first stop would take us on a walk up a hill to learn more about the forests. The weather was socked in so the views were limited at the top. Some visited the interpretive centre and learned more about area.

We then gathered at the Portabello Hotel & Bistro for a fine lunch down near the harbour. The local-caught fish and chips, lamb burgers, chowder, and salads were enjoyed by all as well as some local brew.

Onward we pushed out to Taiaroa Head. The Wild Fiber group were dropped at a local sheep farm to learn about the wool in the area. The rest of us made it out to the head to visit a Northern Royal Albatross and Red-billed Gull colony. The show stealers were the gulls along the paths with all their raucous calls and antics. Many young chicks were also enjoyed by many.

Returning to Heritage Adventurer, we stopped briefly in Dunedin's historic centre to view the architecture and steam train engine on display.

Day 8
21 November 2022
Stewart Island

With a calm overcast morning breaking, Heritage Adventurer was anchored off Ulva Island in Patterson Inlet, Stewart Island/Rakiura. With another sumptuous breakfast completed there was an opportunity to spend time ashore on Ulva Island with local guides Ulva, Emma and Anita.

The calm conditions were perfect for observing the rich birdlife on this island, some of the threatened species seldom seen on the mainland included Yellowhead/Mohua, Saddleback/Tieke and Weka, along with numerous Kākā, Parakeet/Kākāriki and South Island Robin/Kakaruai. A Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lion cavorted in the bay as many guests enjoyed a Zodiac cruise around part of Ulva Island.

Over lunch the ship relocated to Kaipipi Bay where many took the opportunity to stretch their legs with a walk in to the village of Oban. There was the chance to go the longer or shorter route into town, one and two hours respectively. The route traversed diverse coastal forest habitat and provided another chance to see some of the more common bird species.

For those that went to Oban, the museum, gift shops and South Sea Hotel all provided their own attractions. With aboard around 1700 it was time to haul anchor and head for Fiordland.

Day 9
22 November 2022
Fiordland

With winds in excess of 50 knots driving the sea into a frenzy overnight, Heritage Adventurer's stabilisers were put to good use. Entering Thompson Sound in Fiordland around 0700, the water was much less rough inside the fiords, but from our breakfast tables we saw rain and winds causing whiteout conditions. Still, occasional improvements in visibility allowed us to see the spectacular scenery of Secretary Island on our starboard side and the mountainous mainland on our port side. We sailed through Thompson Sound to the intersection with Doubtful Sound, where conditions were much calmer. We headed west into Blanket Bay, which offered almost complete protection.

Here, Nathan devised a plan for the morning. We were given the choice of a strenuous hike or a placid Zodiac cruise. Nine of us chose the hike and many more chose the cruise. The hikers among us were dropped off on a rocky beach at Grono Bay on Secretary Island. From there, we were expertly guided along a rough trail that had been cut through the bush to facilitate trapping of pests and predators, which by now have been mostly exterminated from the island. We negotiated exposed tree roots and deep mud as we made our way through the lush vegetation. We stopped often to listen to Lindsay or Glenda interpret the myriad plants and birds that filled the primeval forest. After 3 kilometres we reached our destination: The Gut Hut, a rustic refuge hut available to hardy campers who venture into this remote part of Fiordland National Park. We were picked up here and taken back to the ship by Zodiac. Meanwhile, the cruisers among us got a scenic tour of Blanket Bay, with stunning views of waterfalls roaring with recent rainfall down vertiginous and verdant mountainsides. Conditions for hikers and cruisers were remarkably benign compared to the stormy weather at the start of the day.

However, just as we were all safely back on board the ship, the weather found us again. Lunch was served as the ship was buffeted by strong wind and rain. After heaving up the anchor, we set a course through Doubtful Sound, past beautiful Bauza Island and out to sea again. As we sailed south along the Fiordland coast, we were treated to a joint presentation in the Lounge by several of our experts on the history, wildlife and conservation of Fiordland. Before we knew it, we were turning into Breaksea Sound. We then entered the narrow and wonderfully scenic Acheron Passage between Resolution Island and the mainland. By now, the weather had greatly improved. We enjoyed the gorgeous mountain scenery and many waterfalls from the outer decks in calm conditions with excellent visibility and partly clear skies. When we reached the intersection with the Dusky Sound complex, we turned east and followed Bowen Channel to Cooper Island.

Again the Zodiacs were launched and our knowledgeable guides took us for a Zodiac cruise of the area. We closely followed the coastline of the island, where many native birds could be seen and heard, before entering a hidden passage into peaceful Sportsman's Cove. We had a mix of rain and sunshine during our tour of this magical place. After our Zodiac cruise ended at 1800, we sailed west along Cook Channel to Cascade Cove, where we anchored for the night behind Heron Island. At 1900, with cocktails in hand, we attended the recap and briefing conducted by our team of experts. After another delicious dinner, we were happy for a restful night in calm waters.

Day 10
23 November 2022
Fiordland

After a gloriously calm and quiet night at anchor behind Heron Island we awoke to low cloud and the odd shower. By 0900 the first groups had set off for their Zodiac cruise of Indian Island and Astronomer's Point. Indian Island was where Captain Cook first encountered Māori in Fiordland when he befriended a family living there supposedly refugees from the Nga Tahu invasion of Ngati Mamoi. The waka harbour offered great protection as well as good camouflage from their enemies. And the small islet off the coast was immortalised by William Hodges, Cook's artist on the expedition in his family portrait of the castaways.

Over at Astronomer's Point we were able to head ashore and visit the site of Cook's 1773 expedition which set up an observatory to get accurate lunar longitude readings which accurately fixed New Zealand's position on the world map. It was also the sight of the first brewery in New Zealand and, unfortunately, one of the first the places that the first ship rats landed in New Zealand. By 1100 we were back aboard and lifting anchor for our afternoon destination on the north side of Dusky Sound.

Once in position we headed out on a Zodiac cruise of Facile Harbour and a visit to the home of New Zealand wildlife conservation at the site of Richard Henry's house on Pigeon Island. The house is long gone but some foundations, the old wharf piles and a punga kakapo pen can still be seen. By 1530 we were all back aboard for our expedition recap and farewell dinner.

Day 11
24 November 2022
Bluff

Cruising down the Fiordland coast under the cover of darkness we made our way back through Foveaux Strait being greeted with a beautiful sunrise over Stewart Island/Rakiura's many Mutton-bird/Titi islands. Cruising into the port of Bluff we paid farewell to new found friends, our wonderful crew and expedition guides, and to the Heritage Adventurer.

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