HA221024: Discover the Secrets of Melanesia: Exploring Papua New Guinea, The Solomon Islands and Vanuatu

DISCOVER THE SECRETS OF MELANESIA

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

24^th October - 9^th November 2022

Day 1
Tuesday 24 October
Port Moresby, PNG

Having arrived from all corners of the globe, excited expeditioners meet up in Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea, at the Hilton Hotel where we join some of our Expedition Team for an evening meal and some important information regarding our voyage is shared.

Day 2
Tuesday 25 October
Madang, PNG

After our arrival dinner the night before, we departed Port Moresby airport for Madang on the first leg of our adventure. We were greeted on arrival by Suzanne, Rod and Fiona who took us on an interesting tour of Madang. Highlights included a series of welcome dances, markets, beautiful gardens and the memorial to Coastwatchers who died in the Japanese occupation of this area during WWII.

A small birding group led by Mike headed into the foothills of Madang and followed a riverside trail. Twenty-seven species of bird were seen including Forest Kingfisher and Black-browed Triller. By 1400 we were aboard our trusty expedition ship, and home away from home, Heritage Adventurer and enjoying the first of many delicious lunches. After checking into our cabins and suites there were mandatory lifeboat drills and an introduction to our Expedition Team followed by welcome cocktails with the Captain. By 1800 we departed the Port of Madang for our overnight voyage to the Sepik River in calm seas.

Day 3
Wednesday 26 October
Kopar Village, Sepik River

Our Cruise Director, Heidi, woke us from our slumber to rise early before heading out on a Zodiac cruise along the mighty Sepik River (See-pik) at first light. The meandering Sepik, over 700 miles (1,200km), is the longest river in Papua New Guinea and the fifth largest river in the world. Starting at the West Papuan border, the Sepik twists its way towards the Bismarck Sea. As we entered the river some of us spotted several impressive White-bellied Sea Eagles, along with a variety of parrots and egrets. Numerous rafts of floating debris, logs, water hyacinth and salvinia were being swept towards the sea. Small tributaries feeding the Lower Sepik were lined with dense wetland jungle dominated by Sago Palms, with occasional mangroves and emergent rainforest trees. Sago, the staple diet of the Sepik people, is cultivated on a regular basis to obtain flour which is used to make pancakes and a pudding with steamed fish and greens. The fibre of the trunk is pounded and washed. Then the starch is gathered once it settles at the bottom of a collection canoe.

As the Zodiacs carried us along the river, we kept a keen eye on the foliage along the banks and the sky above. Many birds were spotted, including cockatoos, white egrets and even a hornbill on the wing. The birding boat's highlights included some, Spotted Whistling-Duck, Gray Tattler, Whistling and Brahminy Kites, white ibis and the White-bellied Sea-Eagle.

Upon our return down river we visited the village of Kopar, built on a thin clearing of muddy soil. Here we were greeted by a dance group and arrived dancing the whole way to the delight of the locals. School children sang the Papua New Guinea national anthem and after official speeches and gift giving, we were privileged to see a spectacular tumbuna dance (time before white man) complete with a masala spirit mask that resembled the head of a dragon and the long body of a crocodile held high by local men.

Oral history plays an important role in Melanesia as it delivers ancestral stories, myths, legends and folklore. We had plenty of time to wander past the treasure trove of Sepik artefacts spread out for some distance and also had time to explore the village before returning, treasures in hand, to the Heritage Adventure

As we departed the mouth of the Sepik River, our Captain set a course to take us through the volcanic Schouten Islands with a great closeup view of the rumbling Kadovar Island that we had seen erupting earlier in the morning.

As we crossed a very languid looking Bismarck sea this afternoon we had two great talks from Suzanne on the Crocodile Men of the Sepik and from Courtney on the fascinating mangrove and coral ecosystems of the Western Pacific.

Day 4
Thursday 27 October
Manus Island

After a smooth overnight passage we awoke anchored off Manus Island. By 0800 we had eaten breakfast and were headed for the shoreline in our Zodiacs. We were welcomed by the children of Bundaili Village with a rousing dance. On the village tour we were impressed by the well-groomed gardens and striking houses up on piles that dotted the village. We were greeted by the chief and got to experience the fun of participating in some dancing including the spectacle of the frog dance. A refreshing round of coconuts and an Admiralty Cuscus in a tree took the edge of our thirst before we were escorted back the beach with much laughter and mirth.

By 1100 hours we were back on board for a quick change before heading over to the nearby uninhabited island of Hawei for some snorkelling. Many of the novice snorkellers among us took the opportunity to familiarise ourselves with our gear, and though the reef here was dominated by algae close to shore, presumably due to island nutrient runoff, an abundance of sand made finning practice easier. Beyond the algae there was a patchy reef with numerous colonies of short branching corals, plus the occasional brain and mushroom coral. Along with a collection of fish, especially damsels such as the Black-tailed Dascyllus. The echinoderms seemed to steal the show with numerous species of sea star and several species of sea cucumber.

Our birders took the Zodiacs up the small section of the Lorengau River and saw 19 species with many endemics. Island Imperial-Pigeon, White-naped Friarbird, Manus Monarch and the diminutive Meek's Pigmy-Parrot. While joining the snorkellers on Hawei Island, a Melanesian Megapode was spotted.

Back aboard Heritage Adventurer we enjoyed a respite from the heat and another delicious lunch. Rod's introduction to nature was well attended with his tips from decades in the business of capturing nature through the lens.

Day 5
Friday 28 October
Tsoilik Island, New Hanover

After a calm overnight passage we anchored inside the northern reef of New Hanover Island. After some early morning negotiations we were greeted by the island locals who bid us welcome with a mixed band of traditional drums complemented with electric guitar and bass to create a yet another unique musical experience. We also received a warm welcome from the children and families of the village.

The birding group were away by 0700 and greeted onshore by sing sing before walking the trails of the island with local guides. Seventeen species were seen including Flying Foxes, Bismarck Crow, Red-faced Lorikeet, Black-tailed Monarch and Yellow-bibbed Fruit-Dove.

The afternoon saw us entering the spectacular strait between New Hanover and New Ireland and two great lectures from Konrad and Suzanne on the context of WWII and the rituals of Haus Krai in morning the dead in Papua New Guinea.

Courtney set up a nice snorkelling spot on the inner reef with a great diversity of fish and corals on display. Others wandered the village and swam off the local beach. By 1400 we were back aboard Heritage Adventurer and making our way along the northern coast of New Hanover where we managed to transit the narrow strait between New Hanover and New Ireland before the sun went down.

Day 6
Saturday 29 October
Rabaul, New Brittan

We awoke just as Heritage Adventurer anchored under the menacing looking Tavurvur and Volcan volcanoes which, on 19 September 1994, destroyed 80% of the buildings in Rabaul. We landed at Hot Spring Beach which was living up to its name before embarking in convoy on our tour of the area. We drove through the remains of the pyroclastic flow (ash and pumice) and entered the centre of what was once the heart of Rabaul. Our first stop was the Volcano Observatory. We read the descriptions on the wall and saw the equipment used to monitor the rumblings of the sleeping giant, Tavurvur, whom the locals watch closely to gauge any activity. Afterwards we had time to appreciate the magnificent vista from the ridge overlooking the six volcanic cones, bay, the new settlement of Kokopo, which is now the provincial capital and the wasteland that was once Rabaul.

Our next stop was at former the bunker of Admiral Yamamoto, one of the architects of Japan's war in the Pacific and an instrumental part of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour. As we continued around the coast we stopped at one of the 300 of the Japanese tunnels that were built by POW's to house amphibious barges that were used to offload the submarine supply vessels during WWII. We were taken on a tour of the 200m deep tunnel that still housed the remains of five barges, most now in poor condition.

Next we stopped at the Kokopo War Relic Museum which had a great collection of primarily Japanese equipment from WWII including significant parts of aircraft, tanks, artillery, naval guns, bombs and vehicles including tractors and armoured personnel carriers. There were other buildings on the grounds that housed colonial and native artefacts and an enclosure with a resident captured crocodile!

The Kokopo Market was our final stop, what a riot of colour and smells from the vast array of stalls selling food and souvenirs. After another delicious lunch, the ship transferred to the nearby Duke of York Islands where we transported the bar ashore for cocktails on the beach followed by a great day of snorkelling. We watched the sun go down behind the volcanic peaks of Rabual and enjoyed yet another great day in paradise.

Day 7
Sunday 30 October
Nissan Island, PNG

We awoke this morning off the lush green Island of Nissan, identifying with Bougainville but having strong links to New Ireland, another beautiful mix in this land of diversity. There had been some serious preparations for our visit and despite being on a Sunday we were in awe of their kindness and love of life. The welcome began with a traditional cleansing, followed by a walk past lines of smiling and engaging locals in what felt like the PNG equivalent of a red-carpet welcome.

After some formal speeches to begin the proceedings, we were treated to a programme of 'sing sings' and dances performed by the school kids, their teachers and contingents from various other villages around the island. These included 6 dancers with Malagan-looking spirit masks enacting what appeared to be a fishing scene. Went also learnt the Nissan Island clap which came in handy throughout our visit.

At the end of official festivities, we were taken in hand by groups of willing local guides, many of them school children, and escorted enthusiastically around the island and the villages to see the way the community lived. We were led around gardens with staple crops of kaukau (sweet potato), coconuts, some cacao and drying sea weed. There were three distinct population groups on the island and our guides appeared to be a congenial mix of each of them.

After fond farewells, we retreated to the ship for lunch and a short rest before heading over to the northern reef of Nissan Island for a snorkel of the drop off and reef. The reef life below the water did not disappoint, with many brightly coloured corals interspersed with anemones and another suite of anemone fish and other damsels such as the prominent Bicolour Chromis. The clear water and bright sunshine made snorkelling a pleasure. By 1500 we were all back aboard and made our departure for Bougainville.

Day 8
Monday 31 October
Bougainville Island

By dawn we were anchored off the small port of Arawa and looking forward to seeing the notorious Panguna Mine which sparked 10 years of bloodshed on this beautiful island. The conflict was brought on by tensions of self-determination, disputes over indigenous control of land and inequality of profit distribution from the copper mine which was established in 1963.

After our convoy completed a steep climb to the top of the mountain we were able to experience the refreshingly cool mountain air and the great view down towards Arawa and the east coast of the island. Once over the hill we descended into the mine site passing some small scale local gold mining operations. We enjoyed an excellent study tour of the mine site visiting the main pit, standing atop the massive railings canal and the crusher plants. In its day the mine was the largest open cut copper mine in the world stretching over 5-kilometres long and deep, employing over 7,000 people and providing facilities such as schools, cinemas, shops, residential rooms, sports centres, churches and markets. International companies and countries alike now bid for annual contracts to remove large amounts of the scrap metal, contributing to the cash on the island. Bougainville people culturally associate themselves more with the people of the Solomon Islands than Papua New Guinea, giving rise to a recent referendum which decided to break away from PNG and form its own autonomous region.

After a quick lunch aboard we returned ashore to visit a local food market. Here we wandered the crammed stalls and walkways, filled to the brim with local produce, course cut tobacco, root vegetables with the top shelf overflowing with dried fish, tapioca, donuts and local nuts. A small artefacts section included lavalava (sarongs), beaded necklaces and the famous Buka baskets and bags offering a chance for us to spend our last Papua New Guinea currency (Kina). By 1530 we were all back aboard and saying farewell to PNG as we departed for the Solomon Islands.

Day 9
Tuesday 1 November
Kolombangara Island

The sight of one of the highest points in the Solomon Islands archipelago greeted us as we stepped out on the deck this morning to view the extinct cone volcano of Kolombangara. We had been invited by KIBCA (Kolombangara Island Biodiversity Conservation Association), to visit the conservation area 400 metres above the sustainable forest plantation. On shore we boarded the 'best available transport' - three 10-tonne trucks complete with slabs of wood in the back for seats, to begin our scenic drive to the ranger buildings within the conservation area. The gravel road left the coast and headed towards the two distant volcanoes, steadily rising in elevation. After 15 minutes, we left the forest plantation behind and entered vivid green sub montane forest. Arriving at the research station we enjoyed the pleasant cool temperatures granted to us by the altitude.

From there the more intrepid set out on a long walk into the thick rainforest, uncovering many unique insects and plants camouflaged to co-habitat in the lush undergrowth. A few of the speedier walkers made it to the look out which has overgrown since last we were here. Others enjoyed the peaceful calm of the lodge which had a wide variety of birds to be seen from the cool protection of the deck. Our birders wandered down the road hoping to spot the Roviana Rail.

Covering an area of over 20,000 hectares (200sq km), the conservation equates to approximately 28% of the island, making it the largest conservation area in the Solomon Islands. On the island both locals and the conservation groups are dedicated to maintaining wildlife corridors along with marine protection areas. On return to the landing site we were tempted by exquisite contemporary pieces of polished wood from bowls to elaborate masks from Rinaggi and Boboe village carvers.

After a quick lunch it was a short hop over to Lily's island where we enjoyed swimming and snorkelling off the beach and more chances for shopping. A few of the more intrepid snorkellers were able to head out to the sunken wreck of a WWII Grumman Hell Cat which lay perfectly intact on the sea floor in about 10 metres of water. By 1630 we were all back aboard and departing for Tetepare.

Day 10
Wednesday 2 November
Tetepare Island

One of the last wild islands in the South Pacific awaited us early this morning. Tetepare, a long, rugged island, cloaked in primary lowland rainforest and fringed with diverse reefs, is noted as the largest uninhabited island in the world and showcases unique terrestrial and marine animals protected by a permanent Marine Protected Area. The island has been uninhabited for 200 years and while headhunting certainly played its part, no-one is sure why it was abandoned. When the logging companies came in 2001 with their promise of easy money, the descendants of the original landowners chose instead to establish the Tetepare Descendants' Association (TDA) to protect the environment and culture of the island, focus on conservation and manage the island's resources sustainably.

On shore we were welcomed by our guides, the local rangers, who we did not at first recognise as rangers due to their traditional warrior attire, complete with bows, arrows and axes. Their ferocious charges were punctuated by squeals of delight from our group, and we were all thankful to be allowed entry and treated as friends and not foes! Marine turtles, such as the critically endangered Leatherback, nest on the volcanic black sand beaches here. Green and Hawksbill Turtles feed in the island's sheltered lagoons, while Dugongs are often seen grazing in its sea grass beds. Sharks, crocodiles and a myriad of fish species inhabit the reefs surrounding Tetepare, while several rare and endemic bird and bat species are found in its forests.

After an initial greeting and close up experience with the Coconut Crabs we split into groups for a wander around the forest tracks where we discovered the many medicinal plants found on the island. Others stayed back at the lodge and wandered the manicured gardens and walkways surrounding the research centre and eco-lodge. The local carvers were present with some exquisite inlaid shell wood work and we were happy to know all proceeds from their enterprise go to furthering conservation efforts on the island.

The birders had a very productive walk around the lodge grounds and into the forest. Bird hunting ceased a generation ago on this island and it was so refreshing to see plentiful birdlife with no fear of humans. The Melanesian Megapodes that are so shy on other islands strut over the lawns here. Stunning Claret-breasted Fruit Doves and Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeons feed peacefully in overhead fruiting trees while the birders stand underneath and watch. The endemic Tetepare White-eyes were plentiful and we obtained great views of White-capped Monarch and Crimson-rumped Myzomela.

On the way back to Heritage Adventurer we were able to stop for a great snorkel. The reef here was another delightful display of fringing reef with a brightly coloured patchwork of hard and soft corals below tranquil waters. A dramatic edge to the reef provided vertical walls and some small caverns for adventurous duck-divers, and there was a very healthy population of large fish such as snapper (Lutjanidae), parrotfish (Scaridae) and groupers (Serranidae).

By 1200 we were all back aboard and saying our farewell to this remarkable island.

Day 11
Thursday 3 November
Malaita Island

The birders headed off at first light into the mangroves where a truck awaited ready to transport the party a few kilometres up hill to an old gravel extraction road. Here they found a few key species, the main target, Malaita White-eye showing itself well. Amongst the other highlights a second calendar year Variable Goshawk also showed well as did a small flock of Song Parrots, Cardinal Lory's and Solomon's Cockatoos.

After dropping birders ashore, we repositioned Heritage Adventurer near the river. A small group went ashore with Rod and Suzanne to wander the local Gwaunau'ru Village which had beautifully tended ornamental gardens. A local group of boys, who had perfected carved wooden toy cars, were racing on the beach, while the hybrid architecture of the built-out-of-local-materials and innovative rain catching systems impressed us with their ingenuity.

A small group headed out to go snorkelling on a deeper reef and enjoyed the slightly cooler water that made a welcome change from the hot sun. Upon our return Chief Esau of the Kwaoi people and his wife and daughter came aboard in their traditional attire to fill us in on their unique culture. They had taken a long journey to get here from their remote mountain village where they practiced traditional ways of living.

After lunch we travelled further south along the coast of Malaita near the town of Auki where we went ashore to meet the rest of the Kwaio dancers and enjoy their demonstrations of cooking food in bamboo and the creation of shell money. With the local villagers keen to see us and the Kwaio dancers it was thought best to retreat back to the ship where we were privileged to see some of the traditional songs performed. Their sacred dance can only be participated in by those who wear the traditional attire so a small but dedicated group were given the privacy of the aft lounge deck to cast off their inhibitions and clothes for a private performance.

By 1600 our special guests had departed and we set a course for Makira Island.

Day 12
Friday 4 November
Star Harbour, Frigate Island. Solomon Islands

Dawn saw us safely anchored off the entrance to Star Harbour and near beautiful Frigate Island. Our birding group headed out at 0715 and up toward the inlets of Star Harbour. After a leisurely breakfast the rest of us went ashore at Frigate Island where we were greeted by the locals who treated us to a display of their dancing under the shade of a beech almond tree. Suzanne and Chief Alfred interpreted the meanings behind the dances which told of the everyday lives of the men. After speeches we were free to roam the island or head out snorkelling. Many got chatting with the locals who had come out from the main land to enjoy the festivities. Nathan gave rides in the Zodiac to the local children who shrieked with laughter at every wave.

By 1145 we were all back aboard and making our departure for remote Nendö Island in the Santa Cruz group. The afternoon was spent enjoying great lectures from Rod on the how life has dispersed around the vast Pacific Ocean and Suzanne on the traditional money of the Solomon Islands. The birders were out in force on the Bridge Deck as we approached the steep drop off of the Solomon Island trench with depths down to a staggering 6,000 metres.

Day 13
Saturday 5 November
Nendö Island Santa Cruz Islands, Solomon Islands

Sunrise saw us arriving in Glacier Bay, Nendö Island. After an early breakfast the birders were away for a walk in the rich rain forest of the eastern coast of Glacier Bay. With the arrival for the trade winds and the associated swell, snorkelling was cancelled and instead a small group went ashore at 0800 to wander in the forest with local guides. Near the top of the walk we encountered a small community centred around a technical college where students learnt vital skills in house building and construction. These students were involved in building a church which was still partly constructed due to lack of supplies. Further along the coast, the predominantly Anglican village was notable for its monastery which is a rarity in the Pacific.

After an early lunch Heritage Adventurer relocated across the bay to the small town of Lata. We boarded five trucks and headed into the hinterland through verdant rain forest. Our arrival at Noipe Village was a flurry of tribal warriors, politicians, elders and excitement. After welcome songs we were led to the dance arena where elders and chiefs circled the traditional dance pole and showcased their endurance, periodically supplemented by wild betel nut hanging in the middle.

After an excellent showcase of local dance we were able to wander the displays and market booths which showed everything from carvings to the manufacture of red feather money, from the Scarlet Honeyeater (Myzomela Cardinalis), which is used in the Santa Cruz Islands as a form of currency in settling important obligations in bridal wealth, mortuary celebrations and compensation payments. This currency, known as Tevau, is formed as coils resembling long belts and can reach up to 10 metres long and approximately 5 centimetres wide. The manufacture of the feather coils is limited to just a few hereditary specialists, working on one island, who are thought to receive their skills from spirits.

By 1630 we had descended the hill back to Lata and were back aboard our ship for a well-deserved shower and drink as we cleared the last country on our voyage, Vanuatu.

Day 14
Sunday 6 November
Loh Island, Torres Islands, Vanuatu

Dawn found us skirting down the eastern flank of the Torres Islands. Many of us enjoyed a well-deserved sleep in. By 0830 we had cleared into Vanuatu where a warm welcome awaited us with the drums heralding yet another cultural change on the journey. We were the first expedition ship to visit since 2016 so the locals were happy to see us. As we landed on the beach we were challenged by the local warriors to see if we were friend or foe. Luckily they considered us friends and welcomed us through an archway on the beach adorning us with beautiful leis. We were greeted by the chief, local village and wider community before beginning the dances,

They quickly invited us to join in their dance routine that involved different generations tramping out a circular beat in a show of unity. An intriguing visit to the village followed which included a glimpse into a nearby cave where small horseshoe bats nested. Loh is also one of the main exporters of Coconut Crab to the other islands of Vanuatu and the harvesting season had just opened hence the lack of crabs to be seen.

A torrential tropical downpour drenched us but it was a nice relief from the heat of the morning. By 1200 we were back aboard Heritage Adventurer to dry out and have lunch while our Captain looked to reposition the ship to the west coast to get out of the messy north east swell that was rolling in. Our efforts were successful as we were able to find a spectacular snorkelling destination while another group managed to visit the local village at very short notice. The weather did some spectacular extremes between bright steaming sunshine and torrential tropical downpours that added to the mood of the occasion. By 1630 we were all back aboard and setting sail for Espiritu Santo.

Day 15
Monday 7 November
Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu

Espiritu Santo (Spanish for 'the Holy Spirit') is the largest of Vanuatu's islands (3,677 sq km) and is home to some of the most beautiful white sandy beaches in the entire world. Voted as one of the world's Top 10 Beaches, the white soft sand and clear blue waters of Champagne Beach took our breath away - coupled with an early heart starter of a glass of champagne, served up by our expedition team.

The ease of snorkelling out from the beach and great fish life also proved great entertainment. An extra surprise awaited us onshore - the local water music ladies took us through the intricate percussion techniques required to create the wondrous bass and delicate accompany notes required to replicate the sounds of nature and wildlife. After a relaxed morning on the beach we said our farewell's to Sylvia and her creative team from the Banks and Torres region.

The remainder of the morning activities included a presentation from Neil in the Lecture Room called 'Volcano Odyssey" followed by an afternoon bus tour exploring Santo and downtown Luganville, the provincial capital. During WWII, particularly after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour, the island was used by Allied forces as a military supply and support base, naval harbour, and airfield. In a highly fictionalised form, it was the locale of James Michener's Tales of the South Pacific and the subsequent Rogers and Hammerstein musical, South Pacific.

After visiting Million Dollar Point, named for its worth after thousands of tonnes of US construction equipment was dumped into the sea after WWII, we headed to the memorial site of the SS Coolidge - an American luxury ocean liner that was converted into a troop carrier during WWII and sank as a result of hitting two US mines. All but two on board were saved. The SS Coolidge, along with Million Dollar Point, have now become world renowned dive sites on Santo.

Stopping for a refuel stop at the farmers' market, we end our trip at one of Santo's legendary Blue Holes - crystal-clear, deep iridescent blue pools unique to Vanuatu. These natural phenomena are formed when underground streams originating in the island's western ranges resurface as springs, cutting deep circular pools into the karst. Filtered by limestone, the water in these holes is pure and gin-clear, manifesting in luminous shades of blue. By 1630 our Zodiacs were ready to pick us up from Oyster Bay amid a short tropical downpour.

Day 16
Monday 8 November
Ambrym Island, Vanuatu

Clouds draped the peaks of the two active volcanoes, Marum and Benbow as Heritage Adventurer anchored near the north east coast of Ambrym this morning. The island, named by Captain Cook who anchored off here in 1774, means "here are yams" (ham rim in Ranon language). Ambrym is first and foremost a 'black' island due to its volcanic ash and because of its 'black magic' is steeped in mystery. Ancient customs play a significant part in everyday village life including unique characteristics such as the sculpted tam-tams (slit gongs), sand-drawing, tree fern statues and local mystical dances.

A solid north east swell had set up overnight which made landing on the beach perilous and snorkelling unwise. Our Expedition Leader Nathan and his team attempted another landing at 1000 hours but had to resort to swimming out to the Zodiac to get aboard in the heavy surf. By 1030 hrs we had up anchored and were heading for our next best option which was the Island of Malakula. On the south east coast we found refuge from the swell in Port Sandwich. While Nathan and the team scouted the opportunities of the bay, Chloe and Suzanne gave us a great talk on the cultural rights of Ambrym and displayed carvings that were bought aboard the ship though the surf. By 1500 we were aboard the Zodiacs for a cruise. The rain cleared and we had a peaceful glide up one of the tributaries that empty into Port Sandwich. By 1630 we were all back aboard and joined Nathan and the team for farewell cocktails and the expedition recap reliving the many Secrets of Melanesia we had discovered.

Day 17
Wednesday 9 November
Port Vila, Vanuatu

With more 2,300 nautical miles covered and more than 15 expedition stops over a 16-day period, we certainly feel we have discovered some of the secrets that Melanesia can offer and travelled to places that no other expedition ships venture to. Early morning, after a final breakfast together, we bid farewell to the Heritage Adventurer, crew and the Heritage Expeditions team, as each of us embarks on our next adventure.

HA221024: Discover the Secrets of Melanesia: Exploring Papua New Guinea, The Solomon Islands and Vanuatu

DISCOVER THE SECRETS OF MELANESIA

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

24th October - 9th November 2022

24^th October - 9^th November 2022