220123: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean: Subantarctic Islands 23 January 2022

Day 1: 23 January 2022

After checking in to the Ascot Park Hotel in Invercargill, where we would spend the first night of the voyage getting to know each other, excited expeditioners met up for a welcome dinner where we met our expedition team and were given a introductory and welcoming speech outlaying the adventure awaiting us.

Day 2: 24 January 2022

Today started with breakfast at the hotel before an excursion from Invercargill to Curio Bay to see the petrified forest. The weather was fantastic for exploring this special Southland landmark where we were lucky to see Hector's Dolphins in the bay. From Curio Bay we made our way to the Port of Bluff, where we boarded the Spirit of Enderby (Professor Khromov). Once everyone was settled into their cabins, we met in the bar for tea and heart-shaped scones that were freshly baked by our talented on board chefs - a small taste of what was to come. We then familiarised ourselves with the ship, which included a lifeboat drill. As part of the drill we boarded the lifeboats and, to get an authentic experience, the lifeboats were closed up and the motor was started - there certainly was not much room inside! Now all that was left to do was to enjoy the excellent weather and beautiful scenery as we left the port and headed for the Snares.

Day 3: 25 January 2022

Arriving at the Snares, we enjoyed our first Zodiac cruise of the expedition, which took us to North East Island. The sea around the islands was nice and calm, and we saw large groups of Snares Crested Penguins. Many were climbing up the steep slopes or going up and down the big penguin slide, the Snare’s most famous landmark. It was here, where a Fiordland Crested Penguin/Tawaki was spotted far from home. Making our way along the shore we saw several Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions, with some of the more curious and playful approaching our Zodiacs. We even observed an Elephant Seal, which was happy to stay around while we were taking photos of it. The water was full of salps, and in one area glowing jellyfish were spotted. We saw the completely black Snares Island Tomtits and Fernbirds in the vegetation, and some mentioned they heard a Snipe. As we departed, the Captain took us past the Western Chain of the Snares. This was the first time this route was taken, and it was much appreciated. It is claimed by some that these islands are home to more nesting seabirds than all of the British Isles together. During the recap in the evening, Lou was very excited about the large amount of kelp that we saw on the rocks all around the island. We also heard from two of our inspiring True Young Explorers, Alice and Elvisa.

Day 4: 26 January 2022

This morning we woke to an overcast day right next to Enderby Island. After breakfast we piled into the Zodiacs with a short ferry to our landing at Sandy Bay. There we were greeted by a large group of Hooker’s/New Zealand Sea Lions including large Bulls, light-colored females, and many very cute pups. We also watched a group of very cautious Yellow-eyed Penguins/Hoiho make their way through the maze of Sea Lions and Skua down to the water. For the rest of the day we split into two groups, one going on the longer walk around the island, and the other on a shorter walk along the boardwalk. During the walks we observed fields of megaherbs, many still in flower, and Chris saw his first Pleurophyllum on the island. For lunch the group on the long walk was sheltering in a rata forest where not a single straight branch could be found. As we continued the walk the weather improved and we were treated to changing landscapes of tussock, rata and megaherbs. Arriving on the other side of the island we were taking some time to admire a colony of Auckland Island Shags, observed Light-mantled Sooty as well as some Royal Albatross fly right past us on the high cliffs, and spotted the reef the Derry Castle shipwrecked on. In the evening we learned in Matt’s lecture how to identify seabirds, and we heard from our True Young Explorers Lana and Jason.

Day 5: 27 January 2022

We woke up to a beautiful sunrise over Auckland Island and started with an excursion to the former Hardwicke Settlement. There we saw the old boat slipway, graveyard, and house sites. We also found many different orchids, and a Yellow-eyed Penguin with its fluffy chick. The next stop was the Ranui Coastwatch Station, where we explored the old hut and went for a walk up the hill for amazing 360-degree views of the island. Although the walk was not easy, the view was definitely worth the effort. During lunch the Captain repositioned our trusty expedition vessel allowing us to explore the delights of Musgrave Inlet. We split into two groups, one going for a Zodiac excursion to spot Rock Hopper Penguins on the rocks, while the second group walked to Lake Hinemoa. Although the lake temperature was very low, a large part of the group went for a swim and all enjoyed being in such a special place. The group on the Zodiacs did not only find the Rock Hoppers they were looking for, they also explored the caves around the coast, which was possible as the weather was beautiful the entire day. When we returned to the ship, we heard a fascinating lecture from Chris about the history of the colonisation of the Auckland Islands, and Lou gave us another excellent, very detailed recap of the day. Our True Young Explorers sharing their stories with us today were Millie and Sam. The tiramisu that our Chefs prepared as dessert was a crowd favorite with many requests for seconds.

Day 6: 28 January 2022

We were very lucky to enjoy beautiful weather today and calm seas for the Zodiac excursions in Carnley Harbour. Our first adventure of the day was either a walk up to the White-capped Albatross colony on Auckland Island, or a Zodiac cruise around Adams Island. The walkers had to climb a long way up in tough-going terrain, following muddy pig tracks and squeezing through bushes and tussock. However, sitting right next to where the Albatross were flying by, and observing them sitting on their nests or coming into land was well worth it. The Zodiac cruise went through Victoria passage and enjoyed a different perspective of the same colony. Our next stop was the Erlangen clearing, where we enjoyed Lou’s storytelling as well as a story from Chris about the Grafton. Once back onboard the Spirit of Enderby we enjoyed a close cruise-by of the Grafton wreck site, where a few planks are still visible on the shore. As we set sail for Campbell Island, we undertook another biosecurity screening of our gear, and enjoyed another recap from Lou. Our True Young Explorers presenting today were Emily and Kaitlin.

Day 7: 29 January 2022

Waking to high winds, rain and fog at Campbell Island, we were greeted by 60 knot winds when we came into the harbour, making it impossible to head to the island for a walk. Instead, we heard a lecture from Lindsay on the restoration of Campbell Island. The eradication method that was developed for Campbell in 2001 has since been used for island eradications all around the world. We also had an opportunity to buy souvenirs from the Sea Shop, and Chris gave a lecture about the plants of the Subantarctic Islands. This was followed by Cliff giving a much-requested talk on the continent of Zealandia and how it relates to the Subantarctic. After lunch the weather had improved and we were able to take the Zodiacs over to Campbell Island and split into two groups. One group went on a historical walk along the coast where we explored the remaining buildings of the old Meteorological Station where we observed an Elephant Seal, a flightless Campbell Island Teal, and the 'World's Loneliest Tree'. The second group ventured along the Col-Lyall Boardwalk, up the hill to a wonderful megaherb garden. The wind was so strong at the highest point that not everyone managed to stand upright. Along the way we observed Southern Royal Albatross, Snipe and many Pipits. In the evening during the recap, we learned about Albatross gamming from Matt, and our True Young Explorers Charlotte and Aaron shared their stories.

Day 8: 30 January 2022

A better start today, weather wise, allowed us to split up into three different groups for the day, all going on different excursions. The first group to leave the ship went to Tucker Cove for a long walk through megaherb gardens, along the cliffs, and through head-high tussock to Northwest Bay. Along the way we spotted many Albatross on the ground and wheeling in the air above, we even enjoyed the rare experience of observing a trio gamming only a metres off the track. The second group climbed Mount Honey, the highest peak on Campbell Island. The ascent was celebrated by Sam in a tie and dinner jacket, and two Snipe had also made it up to the summit. The third group went for a Zodiac cruise in the morning, leaving Perseverance Harbour and heading north to Smooth Water Bay where we saw many Rock Hopper Penguins in beautiful sunlight. After lunch the same group went for a walk along the boardwalk by the Met Station to see the megaherbs and Albatross, and most people ticked off the elusive Campbell Island Snipe. Back at the wharf the resplendent sunshine tempted a group into the water for a swim. Today it was Kate and Angus who told us how they became True Young Explorers.

Day 9: 31 January 2022

Today we celebrated Elvisa’s birthday, starting with a Happy Birthday song during Yulia’s daily wake-up call, and finishing with a beautiful birthday cake at dinner. We had a full day at sea, while we were making our way to the Antipodes. The morning was filled with lectures from Lou about the work he has done as Director General for the Department of Conservation and Predator Free 2050 and Christine about Little Penguins. Our chefs prepared a beautiful nacho lunch, and gave us a tour of the galley. Everyone was very excited to see a part of the ship that we are usually not allowed to enter. Most of us had a snooze in the afternoon, and then enjoyed the introduction to the Antipodes and Bounties by Chris. This was brought forward to today, as we were making such good time that we were going to be arriving earlier than planned. During pre-dinner drinks in the bar we had a Quiz night, and the winning team was only decided after a second tie-breaker question! It was David and Ella who told us about their True Young Explorer experience today, and after dinner Lana organised a movie screening which rounded out an interesting and relaxing day at sea.

Day 10: 1 February 2022

Arriving at the Antipodes Islands in the early hours we were greeted by Pipits flying out to the ship. After breakfast we ship cruised around the main Antipodes Island. Starting from South Bay, we went up the west coast and around Bollons Island, and finally, anchored at Anchorage Bay. Here we saw the yacht Evohe, and the BBC film crew it had delivered to the island could be spotted on the shore. We put the Zodiacs in the water and cruised all the way down the west coast, around the south coast and up to Ringdove Bay on the east coast. Along the way we observed many colonies of Erect-crested Penguins, most of which had a few Rock Hoppers mixed into their numbers. We also saw New Zealand and Subantarctic Fur Seals, Reischek’s as well as Antipodes Island Parakeets, Elephant Seals, Terns, and Prions. Along the way we were treated to Cliff’s excellent explanations about how the different layers we saw in the rock faces were formed by volcanic eruptions. Returning to the ship for a quick lunch, we were back out in the Zodiacs for another excursion. We continued our way around the island from Ringdove Bay to Alert Bay before we had to return to the ship. It is rare to be able to almost completely circumnavigate the main Antipodes Island in Zodiacs. Back at the ship it was time for an Antarctic plunge in the 11°C water. A small, hardy group also swam all the way around the Spirit of Enderby! Shortly after the swim we set sail for the Bounties. As we passed the hut on Antipodes Island we radioed Kath and Graham who research the majestic Antipodean Albatross there every summer, and who will be helping the BBC film crew. Sadly, they did not have good news for us. It looks like the older female Albatross are not returning to the Island anymore. At recap in the evening we heard from our True Young Explorers Imogen and Georgia.

Day 11: 2 February 2022

This morning we woke early to 'It’s a beautiful life' by Keb Mo at the Bounty Islands for a pre-breakfast Zodiac cruise. With the Northside of the islands being too choppy, our Captain kindly moved the ship to the Southside and we were able to load almost everyone onto the Zodiacs. It was a great time of the day to be cruising around the Bounties among the Albatross in the sky and the Erect-crested Penguins in the water. The rocks were also full of seals, with many pups much younger than we had previously seen on our voyage. While the seals and penguins occupied the lower part of the rocks, the upper areas were filled with Albatross, including many chicks. Shags were also observed breeding high up on the cliffs. Everyone managed to get close to the abundant wildlife and many photographs and videos were taken. After breakfast we had a tour of the engine room, which was a great behind the scenes look of how the ship works. In the afternoon we sadly had to cancel the bridge tour as the swell was too big, but we heard an interesting lecture from Steve about Southern Right Whales. Melanie and Jenny were our True Young Explorers talking to us today after yet another great recap by Lou. The seas picked up in the evening, but we made good way towards Bluff overnight.

Day 12: 3 February 2022

On the last day of our expedition we had a whole day at sea. Luckily it was calmer during the day than during the previous night, and we were able to settle our accounts in the morning. We then heard a lecture from Christine about developing lures for Goodnature Traps. After lunch we were given a tour of the bridge by our Captain, and learned about international flag signals and why there is garlic on the bridge. Then we heard a lecture from Lou about Southern Ocean and Antarctic Science Discoveries, before we were treated to a slide show of amazing photographs from our voyage and a final recap. We had good sea conditions for our farewell dinner and enjoyed one last meal together at sea.

Day 13: 4 February 2022

After final breakfast together it was time for farewells, boarding the bus and onwards to our next adventures, still buzzing from our fantastic voyage, and wealth of shared experiences, memories and new friends.

#220123 Group Photo