2163: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean: Subantarctic Islands 30 November 2021

With thanks to Chloe and Hannah, two of our True Young Explorers, we hope you enjoy reliving your adventures through their accounts.

Day 1 - November 30, 2021 - Dunedin, evening

Hannah: It was an exciting day/evening meeting everyone in Dunedin. All were excited; it wasn’t hard to spot the Heritage Expeditioners with slightly more luggage than others might have – however we need to keep warm! Nothing like a good night’s sleep to kick off what we are all hoping is an incredible expedition ahead.

We were all surprised to see so many young faces there and soon learnt that this voyage is going to be very unique with more True Young Explorer scholarships being awarded than ever before. Everyone is excited to start the expedition, with (some) nervous anticipation of what is to come.

Day 2 - December 1, 2021 – Catlins, let the expedition begin

Chloe: The cloak of kamahi flowering throughout the Catlins hazed the horizons and hillsides as we headed south to Bluff for boarding the Spirit of Enderby. Its stunning cloak reiterated the expected breeding season for kakapo and the beginning of a mast year. Would we see nature’s bounty repeated in the Subantarctics. James joined us this morning, our rock education began, James highlighted the twisting layers at Nugget Point which underlay much of the Catlins.

It was a busy first day heading in a bus south through Nugget Point, and the Catlins to Bluff. A few faces looked more relaxed once we saw the boat. How incredible! Crazy to think we are about to embark on the adventure of a lifetime. Awesome to learn a couple of Russian sayings from our Russian crew, and practice a lifeboat drill… Just in case. Words for the day - quiet, peaceful, remote, calm.

Hannah: We took off on a short bus tour of Southland, from Dunedin to Bluff, stopping at Nugget Point and the Catlins along the way. It was a beautiful day out at Nugget Point, very windy but we had a great walk up to the lighthouse. The cliffs, ocean and waves were all stunning and a few New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lions were lazing on the beaches, along with Spoon-billed Herons down on the rocks. We arrived in Bluff, boarded the Spirit of Enderby, saw our cabins and met the team. Everyone was involved in a life raft demonstration, a great way to break the ice with fellow passengers. I love the look and feel of this ship, it really does feel like we're heading off on a big adventure!Day 3 - December 2, 2021 – at sea – Snares Islands and marine mammals

Chloe: The hope of the incredible expedition has become reality, already on Day 2. For me it was a long night getting used to the rolling waves and being on a top bunk, however, I survived the night. Rise and shine at 6am allowed some of us to see The Snares as we headed towards them. Lots of birds were out and about. The Zodiacs are a fantastic way to do some exploring – the rock cliffs, kelp, Snares-crested Penguins and New Zealand Fur Seals were the highlights of the day. Incredible to learn that The Snares have more birds on them than the whole of the UK. We have been extremely lucky today! Dusky Dolphins were swimming around the bow of the shp at midday, and at 5:00pm we had a Humpback Whale join us and show us how it could slap its fins on the water. Definitely always pays to have a jacket handy for a quick escape out to the deck. Today’s words: humbling, peaceful, untouched, stunning.

Hannah: An early morning rising with the sun. The light outside looked beautiful and as we started approaching the Snares/Te Hiki, I couldn’t help but think of how much it felt like I was in a Jurassic Park movie. The islands were covered in a misty layer of fog and looked so mysterious in the distance. Our first Zodiac trip was very exciting and we clearly had a lot of luck on our side. The conditions were so good that we circumnavigated the main island, only the second time they have ever done that!

The rock formations were breathtaking. Towers of granite breaking out of the water, covered in giant kelp that reached out as the waves crashed on the rocks. Some areas were covered in Snares-crested Penguins waddling up and down the slides they had created from the hilltops to the sea. We explored coves and caves, saw sea lions and beautiful tree daisies.

Back on the ship, as we set sail for the Auckland Islands, we were greeted by Dusky Dolphins dancing around the bow of the boat. Matt gave us a presentation on seabirds with some handy tips to identify them. After lunch a Humpback Whale was spotted, as if this day couldn't get any better!

Chris delivered a lecture on the fascinating history of the Auckland Islands and before dinner James gave the daily wrap up along with an explanation of the geology of the Snares/Te Hiki. We are learning so much on this ship, definitely not your usual vacation.

Day 4 - December 3, 2021 - Auckland Islands

Hannah: Enderby Island, wow, what a phenomenal place! It was like no place I have ever stepped foot on before. It felt completely wild with all of the animals there doing their own thing with no care for us, apart from a few excited young male New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lions who wanted us to know we were intruding on their island. We had a first glimpse of how brave all of our guides really are, sacrificing themselves (or more so their backpacks) for the greater good of the guests.

I went on the 12km walk around the island and was blown away by all of the flowering megaherbs and wildlife that we came across. The star of the show for me was the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross which we saw sitting on her nest on the cliff face. One of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen. We were so lucky to see so many Yellow-eyed Penguins/Hoiho and even a Southern Elephant Seal having a nap on the grass. We also saw the endemic Auckland Island Shag, Tomtit, Snipe, Pipit and Kakariki. The boardwalk was just as stunning as the long walk and fortunately didn’t involve as much bush bashing and tussock wading.

We really couldn’t have been more fortunate with the weather, luck is on our side yet again! Back on the ship we took off to Carnley Harbour, sailing between the main Auckland Island and Adams Island, with cliff faces on either side of us and a fog-covered sea with flocks of Titi flying about.

Day 5 - December 4, 2021 – Auckland Islands, Carnley Harbour

Hannah: This morning we took off bright and early for a scramble up the hillside, joined by none other than Captain Pruss himself. It was a very challenging climb, involving a lot of mud and wading through dense bush and tussock. The main Auckland Island has been decimated by pigs and cats, yet we still saw so many wonderful plants, showing just how hardy and resilient they are. When we reached the top of the hill we were greeted with the spectacular sight of the White-capped Albatross colony, nesting on the cliff face surrounded by tussock and flowering megaherbs. The landscape is spectacular and we saw Light-mantled Sooty Albatross soaring through the sky. On our way back to the ship in the Zodiacs we went through Victoria Passage, something the morning Zodiac cruise had done noting this is not something everyone gets to do – we had good weather again. (I’m sensing a theme here).

After lunch we visited Tagua Bay to see the old Coastwatchers lookout hut and buildings. We were greeted on the beach by another territorial male New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lion and James valiantly defended us with his backpack. The forest was incredible and walking through it felt like we were in Lord of the Rings. The ground was covered in mosses, ferns and orchids; the sky was covered in Rata. What a wonderful day.

Day 6 - December 5, 2021 – Auckland Islands, at sea

Chloe: Sunday started with an early rise of 5:30 am with a beautiful song being played through the speakers to get everyone on board up. The early rise was met with eager eyes as we ventured out in Zodiacs to see Rockhopper Penguins in Musgrave Inlet. We also went into a large rock cave/structure that Costa likes to call the ‘washing machine’.

Hardwicke in Port Ross was the afternoon’s destination, where at peak around 300 people lived. Incredible. Fantastic to learn about the history and what would have been in the settlement, and also to see a Hoiho with a chick. The sun was shining, and the wind slowly rising, so the youngins and a couple of other braves jumped off the ship and did a ‘subantarctic plunge’. This was quite refreshing! Words the day: Eerily quiet, exhilarating, invigorating, denial.

Hannah: Chris woke us at 5.30am with a beautiful song playing over the speaker. Possibly the first time I haven’t been grumpy about getting up so early. We were in the Zodiacs by 6am with everyone excited and rugged up in their warmest gears. The weather conditions were much better than had been expected the night before and we were able to go on a fantastic cruise around the harbour (there’s that luck again!). We saw Rockhopper Penguins coming down from the bush, preening themselves and of course, hopping on the rocks. We were taken through an incredible rock formation that led into an enclosed little cove. The Rata-topped rock walls towered all around us as we sat atop the clearest water I have ever seen. The Zodiacs were tied together to form a raft and everyone passed around hot chocolate. Back to the ship for breakfast and then out on another excursion to Hardwicke Bay. There’s no stopping on this ship!

At Hardwicke Bay we saw the ruins of the Enderby colony, with a graveyard, some bricks, the old road and the Victoria Tree. It was all very interesting and we walked through yet another beautiful forest filled with wonderful flora. Back on the ship, a few brave (or perhaps crazy?) guests jumped in the water. It was exhilarating to say the least.

We set sail for Campbell Island and with a fairly rocky sea, we were in for a big night ahead. Unfortunately, there were a few people feeling seasick and some dinners went untouched. For those that managed to stay out of bed, Fiona gave a lovely presentation on advice for wildlife photography, filled with beautiful photographs, interesting animal facts and handy tips for everyone.

Day 7 - December 6, 2021 – Campbell Island

Chloe: The group parted ways again today, and apologies this is from the long walk! A group of 10 of us headed across to Campbell Island early. Land was met with a warm welcome as we had a rough night travelling on the seas with 4 metre plus swells, and an uncomfortable night’s sleep. We headed up a track to one of the points on Campbell Island, seeing a huge amount of albatross dotted on nests as we went. James filled us in on many geological happenings in the rocks and how the limestone cliffs were formed. A snipe was even spotted along the way. We had lunch accompanied by Elephant Seals which was incredible and made our way back to the bay. Overall it was probably a 10-kilometre-ish hike, and a beautiful one at that. The 'World’s Loneliest Tree' looked that – lonely. Along the boardwalk travellers on a different track encountered a Sea Lion and his female accomplice about 1.5 kilometres into the walk! A rare sight on a boardwalk, they seemed to be enjoying blocking everyone’s paths. Words of the day: mesmerizing, beautiful, tired, content.

Hannah: We woke to a stunning morning with incredible calm water parked in the Harbour of Campbell Island. This morning was not so rushed for those that didn’t embark on the long walk. Slow morning was welcomed by some of the guests who didn’t get much sleep the night before from the rocky travel. We took off on a Zodiac cruise and spotted lots of Shag, Teal and Giant Petrel.

After lunch we were ferried to the island and dropped off at the old research and weather station. We took off on a wonderful walk up the boardwalk, spotting many different megaherbs, mosses, orchids and veronica bushes on the way. Looking back towards the ship we had the most spectacular view of the harbour and mountains of the island. As we reached closer to the top of the boardwalk we began to see nesting, courting and gaming Southern Royal Albatross. What incredibly impressive birds they are! To be in their presence is truly something special.

After yet another fabulous meal (the kitchen crew are so talented!), we had a relaxing evening and soaked in the wonderful day we just experienced.

Day 8 - December 7, 2021 – Campbell Island – at sea

Hannah: As if this trip couldn’t get any better, the days somehow just keep outdoing themselves. This morning we experienced one of the most magical moments of my life so far. It is so hard to even articulate but I think we all had the same feeling.

We had two Zodiac cruises around the other side of Campbell Island. On the first cruise, we saw some incredible rock formations with ash deposits, dykes, sandstone, square cut-out caves and waterfalls. We saw New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lions, Campbell Island Shags and Rockhopper Penguins. On the second Zodiac ride, we went to see the nesting sites of the Campbell Island Albatross. I don’t think anyone knew what we were in for and were all completely blown away.

There were tens of thousands of albatross nesting on the cliffs, surrounded by megaherbs and waterfalls. There were hundreds of albatross flying overhead, swooping back and forth trying to land. The sun was shining and it was truly spectacular. We kept moving around the cliffs to different nesting sites, each one with more albatross than the one before. My mind just kept being blown, it was breathtaking. As we headed back to the ship we came across a raft of albatross floating on the sea and as the Zodiacs neared closer and closer they soon took off and flew all above and around us. I think everyone was speechless at this point. It was a magical experience for us all to share.

After lunch we sailed away from Campbell Island and many of us stood on the back deck to watch the albatross soar in our wake with the island behind them. I felt sad to leave this place, it was so special here. But of course, I am excited for what is in store next (after the 40 hours of sailing that is).

Lindsay shared with us his experience of the Campbell Island rat eradication of 2001 which was highly successful and a very interesting talk. It is no wonder this place is so incredible, in part thanks to him and his colleagues!

Chloe: Isn’t it amazing what a good night’s sleep can do! Definitely, a noticeable difference when sleeping on calm water. We were fortunate to have a beautiful and glassy night at anchored. Five layers of clothing later, I was ready to jump in the Zodiacs and head out of Perseverance Harbour. Sea lions and Rock Hopper Penguins were spotted, and it was incredible the colours beaming through the morning sun onto the rocks. Waterfalls were abundant on the cliff edges too. Back for a cuppa on the ship at Northeast Harbour, then back on the Zodiacs up to Bull Rock.

We passed a magnificent cave that had been squared out by smashing waves and came across hundreds and hundreds of Campbell Island Albatross (endemic) on the cliff edges. Circling around Bull Rock we neared a group of the albatross on the water, and they took off up over our heads. This will be a moment I will never forget. It was incredible. I’ve learnt from Kosta (one of our Zodiac drivers and chief engineer, I believe) that no whistling is allowed on Zodiacs or ships – as it brings big seas. A nice big afternoon nap followed by teaching others how to play Monopoly cards, filled in the afternoon as we began our travel up to the Antipodes. Words of the day: epic, astonishing, rocks, remote.

Day 9 - December 8, 2021 - At sea, towards Antipodes Island

Hannah: Today we have our first full day at sea. What was expected to be a fairly quiet day has turned out to be filled with lots of different activities. They sure know how to keep us entertained and busy on this ship. Although we did get to have a later start which I think everyone was pleased about. Chris delivered a botany lecture which was followed by a series of talks about the fauna and flora of the Southern Ocean region from some of the True Young Explorers. Fiona spoke about dolphins and whales, Hannah about pinnipeds (seals and sea lions) and Paul about the plants that we saw on Campbell Island. After lunch we were offered a tour of the galley led by Ed and Stephen which was so cool, it was interesting to see how the food is stored and created. I always find it quite entertaining to see big bulk containers of random things like dried wild mushrooms and cans of baked beans big enough to feed an army. The ship shop opened for perusing gift purchasing.

Before dinner Chris gave a lecture on the history of the Antipodes and Bounty Islands, a lot to fit into a short amount of time and as always he had our full attention. We also watched a very interesting video of the mouse eradication of the Antipodes, a huge undertaking but highly successful thanks to plans inspired by the rat eradication that Lindsay was involved in. Later everyone gathered in the bar and James gave a talk on the geology of Zealandia. We are learning so much on this trip!

Some after dinner Monopoly Deal started in the bar, a tradition that has now developed. At 9.30pm Elena and Olga came up to the bar and we had a Russian music dance party. A few of us got up and danced and sang and mostly laughed for an hour until everyone was too tired to go on longer. It was such a fun time, made even more fun by the rocking of the boat. Not many people can say that they have had a dance party in the Southern Ocean!

Chloe: It’s a long day on a boat at sea however the team has made it action-packed so I’ve barely noticed it. A lecture from three of the True Young Explorer scholarship about whales, seals and plants was absolutely fantastic. We also had a galley tour through the kitchens – wow! It must be a challenging job when the seas are roaring that’s for sure. Incredible to also learn how much food needs to be pre-ordered, one number was thrown out there was 400 kilograms of beef mince. We’ve also had a lecture on what to expect from the Antipodes tomorrow, I look forward to the days ahead. Hard to believe we are coming to the tail end of the trip now, I’ve been too busy enjoying the days we’ve had.

Day 10 - December 9, 2021 - Antipodes Islands

Chloe: We had a late wake-up today which was nice! Up and into the Zodiacs for a trip at the Antipodes. It was an incredible morning for it, reasonably flat, and beautiful colours on the rocks. We saw a lot of wildlife – Erect-crested Penguins, Rockhopper Penguins, Antipodean and Reischek’s Parakeet, Elephant and New Zealand Fur Seals, and even some Erect-crested Penguin chicks! It was an incredible Zodiac trip around the eastern side of the Antipodes.

We headed back to the ship for another subantarctic plunge! Less of us jumped in this time, however, Captain Pruss joined in too. It was a lot colder than the first time. We did some bird watching from the ship in the afternoon as we headed around to the western part of the island. It was amazing – the penguins we had seen on the other side of the island, didn’t even come near to the amount that was present here in large groups.

We had a lecture from James about life on Mars and finished the day off with a quiz night! The Rocks Rock team (our team) had the superbrains of Ella and James, and we took out the win, it was great fun. Words of the day: colorful, present, mesmerising, wavy.

Hannah: We arrived to surprisingly calm seas at the Antipodes and soon as you stood outside you could hear the penguin colonies chattering away, their calls amplified by the fantastic rock formations. We got out in the Zodiacs with the sun shining and were soon surrounded by rafts of swimming Erect-crested Penguins. We cruised around looking at the impressive towering cliffs, kelp-covered rocky shores and crystal clear water. We saw large groups of Erect-crested Penguins, shags, New Zealand and Subantarctic Fur Seals and Elephants Seals!

There were young male Elephant Seals fighting on the shore, juveniles/weaners playing in kelp-protected lagoons and females lying on the beaches.

There were a few Rockhoppers in amongst the Erect-crested Penguins and I was so surprised to see how much smaller the little rockers are in comparison. There was even a colony of Erect-crested Penguins that had chicks. They’re quite early to be hatched but what a treat for us to get to see them! Everywhere we looked we spotted something amazing.

Towards the end of the Zodiac cruise there was some anticipation building to spot the Antipodean Parakeet, an endemic species to these islands. And lo and behold just before we headed back we saw not one but three! They’re hard to spot as they look so much like the moss. Like all the other creatures here they have adapted so well to fit their habitat.

When we got back to the ship there was enough time for another swim. There were fewer people keen to jump in again but Captain Alex joined us and it was a great time, albeit very chilly.

After another delicious lunch a lot of us headed out to the back deck to watch as we sailed past the islands. The ship got so close to the cliffs, a very bold but well-executed move from the captain and his crew. We sailed right around the islands and were blessed with wonderful views of the cliffs, coves, caves and large penguin colonies up on the hills.

Overhead there were Light-mantled Sooty Albatross flying in stunning synchronicity as we set sail for the Bounty Islands.

James delivered an afternoon lecture on Mars which was both interesting and entertaining; he certainly knows how to grab an audience’s attention. Before dinner we had a pub quiz in the bar which was very fun and very funny, although slightly stressful for some. Jeremy did a great job as quiz master. The waves picked up as we sailed through the night and the ship rolled on.

As we created a figure of eight around Antipodes and Bollons Island Captain Pruss took us on a seamans tour of the navigational chart, almost close enough to touch the cliffs at times, viewing the large caves and across the curving face of Bollons. Our thanks to all who have charted these waters that we could safely enjoy this experience.

Day 11 - December 10, 2021 - Bounty Islands – at sea

Chloe: The last log I will do as we currently head away from the Bounty Islands towards Bluff. It’s around 444 nautical miles, so might take us around 44 hours Chris said. A wee way to go that’s for sure!

Waking up to the Bounty Islands this morning was incredible. Isn’t it amazing how many birds and animals can be present on rocks, with no plant life? There were hundreds on hundreds of birds flying in the wind above the island as we arrived. The swells were rolling but we were game enough to get into the Zodiacs and into the water. Our captain and crew have been amazing with that. We saw the rarest shag in the world – the Bounty Island Shag, and plenty of albatross, so many seals, and lots of penguins! The light on the rocks this morning was absolutely magical, and it was such a great way to complete the voyage for us. We have been spoiled with the weather, mostly sunny on islands it might normally be raining on. Maybe now we have a false reality of what they’re actually like, but either way, it’s been a privilege to travel to the Subantarctic Islands to learn about the plants, animals and history, and it will be a trip I never forget. Words of the day: bountiful, awe-inspiring, sensory over-load, masquerade.

Hannah: We were woken this morning at 5.30am by the Spirit of Enderby radio, hosted by Chris. Such a great way to wake up and even better when greeted with sunshine. We got ready and headed for the Zodiacs. As soon as you put one foot outside you could smell the penguins, albatross and seals. Something we hadn’t yet experienced so pungently on this expedition. The sea was also quite a lot rougher here than at the other islands, but still very calm for the Bountys.

Every day I am blown away. These small, barren rocks surrounded by crashing waves were covered in Erect-crested Penguins, New Zealand Fur Seals, Shags and Salvin’s Albatross, and when I say covered, I mean covered! It was a phenomenal sight, wildness in its purest form. The morning light made it all very magical, as penguins swum all around us, albatross flew overhead and seal pups looked on with their big glassy eyes. It was yet again another super lucky excursion!

Back on the ship for breakfast and we have set sail for New Zealand. We have a long way to go but it saddens me to think this trip will be ending soon. Although this day is certainly not! After a group photo, Matt did a little chumming. It started with just one albatross really far out from the ship and within about three minutes there were hundreds! We watched them soar in from the sides, swoop down and ski along to land on the water.

Then we were taken on a tour of the engine room by the one and only Costa, it was so interesting and so loud. After lunch we had another tour of the bridge with the lovely Captain Alex and his Chief Officer. Later Shirley delivered an inspiring presentation on Heritage Expeditions, its past present and future and we all met in the bar for a glass of bubbles and a toast to this incredible trip!

Day 12 - December 11, 2022 - at Sea towards Bluff

The penultimate day of our Southern Ocean exploration. Time to reflect on our experiences or continue to seek all the ocean can share with us whether it's bird watching from the back deck or scanning the horizon for a signature whale spout, or flashing dolphins.

Four artists shared their artistic thoughts and inspirations. Each working in their own personalised genre, our future will be enriched to see their interpretations and response to the environment and experiences of these lands and oceans, our interactions with nature.

A combined presentation from Fiona and Ruri with support from across the team recalled each days opportunities, highlighting the privilege of experiencing the subantarctic islands of the New Zealand for ourselves.

Captain Pruss and the crew were thanked by Chris, Captain Pruss returning the compliment and then joining us all in the dining rooms as Ed and Stephen, our chefs, presented the final dinner whilst we steamed ever closer to Bluff.

Day 13 - December 12, 2021 - and so we return to the beginning

Time to farewell our crew and staff, our ship the Spirit of Enderby, as we commence our onwards travel to our home destinations.

Thank you for sharing this journey with Heritage Expeditions from the team in the office of Gill, Mel, Natalia, Bryony, Maksim, Isaac, Heinrich, Aaron and Nathan through to the on board team of Chris, Aviaaja, Ed, Stephen, Matt, Glenda, Lindsay and Shirley.

And thanks to Captain Pruss and his crew, those we got to meet like Chief Mate, Costa, Yuri, Elena and Olga and to all those who made it happen, by their everyday work on board.