220110: Forgotten Islands of the South Pacific: Subantarctic Islands 10 January 2022

Day 1: Monday 10 January 2022
Departing Bluff, enroute to Snares Islands

The excitement of exploring south to the Forgotten Islands of New Zealand built as everyone arrived at Bluff. Our Expedition Leader, Helen Ahern, introduced everyone to the ship, the voyage program and the Expedition Team. Niall Mugan, Gus Anning, Murray Potter, Julia Mishina, Stephen Donaldson and Steve Bradley. It was then time to explore our floating home for the next eight days - the 72m Spirit of Enderby / Professor Khromov. While in the sheltered waters of Bluff Harbour we received our compulsory safety briefing then completed our practical lifeboat drill which included getting inside the ‘walnut’ shaped lifeboats on the 500 level… at which time the sailors started the engines.

Just after 1700 we cleared Bluff Harbour, and the Pilot peeled away in his launch with a friendly wave in good Southland fashion. Captain Alexandr Pruss set course for The Snares. Motoring down the protective eastern side of Stewart Island we were in fairly calm waters. Stephen and Steve, our chefs, made a great start with excellent cuisine for our evening meal - a standard maintained throughout the voyage.

Stewart Island slipped away starboard astern, as the evening darkened and we headed to the open sea with a light sea to lull us to sleep. As we enter the Roaring Forties we are in new territory for many of us – our ‘furthest South’ - as we make way closer to our next destination.

Day 2: Tuesday 11 January 2022
Snares Islands

Arrival at Snares was at 0600 to a sky darkened by millions of seabirds. Sooty Shearwaters leaving their peat burrows under the tree daisy - Olearia lyalli – to head out to sea to forage for the day. We ship cruised the Eastern coastline from the Penguin Slide in the North to Broughton Island in the South before repeating for more viewing. Southern Buller's Albatross soared, Snares-crested Penguins swam and the odd New Zealand Fur Seal played in the waters below the ship. The cacophony of sound was likened to a large motorway, constant and without a break.

Following breakfast we held a Zodiac briefing and Snares Overview. Once we were briefed, we boarded the Zodiacs for a 2.25hr cruise to get up close and personal with what we had viewed from the ship level. The granitic nature of the Snares makes it feel solid and foreboding, however up close the harshness is replaced by the flora of hebe, stilbocarpa polaris and olearia. We meandered, drifted and tucked into caves, rock stacks, admiring the southern bull kelp attached fast to the rocks and its long fingers flowing with the swell. Our conditions were good, and we were told this is as good as it gets on the Snares which has little shelter from ocean nor weather. The rain held off until our final look at the fascinating Penguin Slide – a ramp of granite which the gritty and tenacious Snares Crested Penguins use to go from colony to ocean. Once back aboard Spirit of Enderby we enjoyed a cup of tea and dry off, until Captain Pruss announced unexpectedly that we had Orca around the ship. What a surprise! This meant a hurried grab of the outerwear and back on deck. At least three individuals, including a large male with the telltale mighty dorsal fin were active in the bay and off the bow of the ship giving very good sightings. We stayed another hour to observe their movements before turning Southbound for tomorrow’s destination – the Auckland Islands.

After Niall’s later-than-planned lecture (due to the Orca) we enjoyed lunch before undertaking necessary Biosecurity precautions. These islands are some of the most fragile, and while human contact has had a huge impact through history we do not want to be introducing any further non-native species to the islands. Gus gave an Introduction to the Auckland Islands and covered what to expect for tomorrow at Enderby Island – our full-day landing. A social time in the bar followed then dinner. Some of us enjoyed the reading of the Birdlist in the Bar/Library with Niall and Murray covering off what we had already seen and could expect to see tomorrow, complete with images for ID. Others of us enjoyed watching the entertainment of the Birdlist! We went to bed with very friendly seas lulling us to sleep.

Day 3: Wednesday 12 January 2022
Enderby Island, Port Ross, Auckland Islands

This morning we woke in the somewhat sheltered waters of Port Ross. There were substantial SW squalls moving through bringing some rain, and the odd patch of sunshine. We could see over to Sandy Bay and harems of Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions dotted on the beach, while Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and Auckland Island Shags flew by the ship to check out what and who the strange visitors were to their home.

After collecting a packed lunch, and required toilet bag (just in case nature calls!) we were shuttled over to Sandy Bay where the Expedition Team met us. We weaved our way across the narrow sandy beach and up to some huts used mainly by scientific teams who come to the island to study the wildlife. A few New Zealand Sea Lions were lounging around on the beach, but seemed nonplussed about our presence. Some of us changed from gumboots to hiking shoes and we had use of a boat shed to keep our gear dry while we were away for the day. The ‘longer walkers’ who had opted for a day hike circuit of the island set off with Gus and Murray. Others opted for some time viewing the sea lion activity on the beach and a more gentle boardwalk hike across the island with lunch at the Northern cliffs. As well as the sea lion colony, we were mesmerised by the skua and Giant Petrels who were feasting and interacting around the sea lion pups which had perished – perhaps either from a bull squashing it, or maybe its mother not coming back from feeding. We were amazed how many females one alpha male/Beachmaster bull could have in his harem – up to 25. And he was kept busy fending off prospecting younger males, this was obviously an ongoing security issue for him.

We then turned North and through bushes of hebe, one with a Giant Petrel chick tucked underneath. Soon after we entered dense rata forest, twisted, gnarled and thick, and where the boardwalk started. As a Nature Reserve, the Department of Conservation has erected the boardwalk and it is relatively well maintained apart from a bit of lifting plastic netting here and there. This boardwalk of course decreases the impact of visitors on the ecosystem. We saw bellbirds, heard a falcon, and large disk-shaped leaves of the stilbocarpa polaris – Macquarie Island Cabbage which was used by early sailors to ward off scurvy. As rata made way to more open landscapes we had magnificent views of Southern Royal Albatross – at least 8 were using the strong SW wind as soaring practice – these were likely youngsters who were socialising and gallivanting around showing their flying skills to each other. We could see them gamming and communicating further along the island in a dip. The boardwalk took us to the northern cliffs where we took a moment to rest, snack and take in the vista. By this stage the weather had cleared and we were in brilliant sunshine. The weather can change so quickly here. Most of us took the chance to step off the boardwalk and hike further east into more dense megaherb fields. While the yellow bulbinella rossii was in post-flowering state, we had plenty of anisotome and gentians to see. Niall hiked us to a large set of cliffs with cascading waterfall and pointed out the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. We were overjoyed when one Sooty stood up and gave us great views of the chick underneath. This was a good lunch spot so we lay back in the gentle, soft grass and enjoyed our packed lunch - soaking in the serenity. After ambling back in our own time to the boardwalk we made our way to the landing in Sandy Bay, before being shuttled back to the ship. By this stage the wind had increased and the easterly swell meant we used a rock and kelp platform for boarding the Zodiacs. It was a little more bumpy ride back to the ship where we relaxed and enjoyed afternoon tea.

The long walkers made it back to the ship around 1600hrs having enjoyed a strenuous and rewarding hike with wildlife and a good use of extra energy.

A recap by Murray in the Bar/Library outlined some more information of the New Zealand Sea Lion and Helen went through plans for tomorrow – on and around the main Auckland island. After another great meal from our chefs Steve and Steven, some of us went to Birdlist with Niall and then turned in for the night. Another great day in the Subantarctic Islands.

Day 4: Thursday 13 January 2022
Musgrave Inlet, Grafton Wreck, ‘Epigwaitt’, Carnley Harbour, southern Auckland Islands

Lifting anchor early morning we relocated down the eastern coastline of the main Auckland Island, leaving Port Ross and Enderby Island behind us. The shades of green were contrasted against the red of the southern rata, and even more so as the clouds gave way to patches of sunlight that raced across the upper reaches of the windswept hillsides. Coves and bays opened up as we sailed down the coastline.

Within 2 hours we were tucked into Musgrave Inlet, with typical Auckland Island views and even a rainbow over the hills. Once in the Zodiacs we spent two hours exploring the shoreline delights. The kelp was attached fast against the rocky shore and also rose from the deep creating almost impenetrable floating barriers. The Zodiacs wound their way into the shore where they could and we sighted Rockhopper Penguins with their endearing yellow crest, heard some Bellbirds with their crisp, clear song, and many species of flora we had been introduced to on Enderby Island. After crossing the Inlet we saw endemic Auckland Island Shags, Terns, and Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions of which two put on a spectacular display for some of us by tossing a fish in the air and eating it. The caves were a particular favourite as we were able to Zodiac right into one which had fabulous white, grey and white patterning on the roof not far above our heads. Another had an arch but no roof so once inside we were left in a halo of light from above. It was serene. The water around us was crystal clear with abundant sea flora and fauna, as well as a jellyfish nearby a steep cliff wall.

We returned to our trusty expedition vessel for lunch and sailed into the calm waters of Carnely Harbour in the south of the Auckland Islands. Anchoring off the Grafton wreck in Northern Arm (off Raynal Point) we split into two groups. The first group met Helen and Gus on the shoreline at Epigwaitt – the home of the Grafton wreck survivors who were castaway for 566 days before being rescued. Gus told us their remarkable survival story on site. We ducked and tucked ourselves under hebe and into the rata to see the scattered and sparse remnants that are left. On the beach are the ribs of their boat as a reminder of their long survival story. We decided that on days like today – sunny and calm – life would not have been too bad, as the other group explored the shoreline by Zodiac before the groups swapped places, giving a more intimate and interesting experience ashore, rather than being in one large group.

Captain Pruss then lifted anchor and sailed as far west in Carnley Harbour as is possible – past the renowned Victoria Passage into Western Harbour before turning and ship cruising the coast of pest-free Adams Island. Victoria Passage is less than 10m deep and features Monumental Island in the middle. It is quite something that the pests from the main Auckland Islands (pigs, cats, mice) have not made it the short distance to colonise Adams Island – something we were grateful for when we saw so many albatross nesting innocently on its slopes.

Helen and Gus gave a Campbell Island introductory briefing at 1700hrs covering an overview of the island, its flora, fauna, and history. The ‘Plan A’ for our time at Campbell was also explained so we knew what to expect from our next destination. This was followed soon after by an early dinner at 1800 due to expected sea conditions outside of the harbour. As 1900 approached we exited Carnley Harbour, directly into a quite substantial SW swell. This caused a lot of movement we were not used to and it threw us around a bit! There were a few broken glasses in the dining rooms, but thankfully no one broke themselves. Most of us decided fairly quickly that the best place to be was bed, while a hardy few with good sea legs and balance stayed up on the bridge enjoying the evening birding. A myriad of sea birds were enjoying the windy conditions with petrels, prions and albatross as the eye could see.

Day 5: Friday 14 January 2022
Campbell Island

The ocean conditions did not improve until we tucked into the lee of Campbell Island on the easterly side and, to everyone’s relief, this was about the time breakfast was served. It was a slower start with breakfast at 0830 and by 0930 those opting for the full day, 11.5 kilometre walk over 7 hours were shuttled ashore with Niall and Amy. They set off with a rendezvous time of 1700hrs after crossing the island, dropping into Northwest Bay, up over the island, following its contours, passed the Coastwatchers cave and dropping back into Camp Cove.

Others opted for a Zodiac cruise of the upper reaches of Perseverance Harbour. This included Tucker Cove where the first farmhouse was located and just a stove remains, Camp Cove – with the sitka spruce which holds the Guinness World Record as the ‘loneliest tree in the world’ and finally Garden Cove where we were happy to see a solitary Campbell Island Teal which were once thought to be extinct. Venus Cove, where the French came to observe the transit of Venus, was passed on our way back to the ship. While it was a tad windy we were fortunate it was not wet.

After watching Battle for Campbell Island (the story of the pest eradication of the island in 2001), and Campbell Island Teal (the race to save this species from extinction) we enjoyed lunch and prepped ourselves for the Col Lyall Boardwalk hike. As the Albatross action up on Col Lyall takes place in the afternoon we disembarked at 1430, landing at the Met Service base, before ambling our way up the boardwalk. The botanists were having a field day among the megaherbs and certainly took a lot of photos to enjoy once back at home. The birders were happy with friendly pipits one of which even landed on someone’s boot. By the time we were at Col Lyall the Southern Royal Albatross had started their soaring in the wind above us – what a sight. To have these majestic birds soaring overhead, adjusting their wings and feet for balance was something we will not forget. The sounds of them as they come swooping just metres overhead is amazing. At one point on the boardwalk everyone had to ‘go bush’ to get around an albatross that was nesting close to the boardwalk. Amazingly enough, its partner landed as while we were there and we had amazing views of the two albatross ‘greeting and bonding’. It was quite something. The megaherbs were fantastic – and our ‘botanists’ were in heaven, although they were also seen to get excited over the albatross like the birders…and vice versa!

The top of the boardwalk had magnificent views down to Northwest Bay – huge cliffs dropping off precariously into the ocean. While the views were amazing it was also cold and windy with the odd passing shower which had a few tucking out of the wind and enjoying the other view down into Northeast Harbour.

As the afternoon went on we walked ourselves down the boardwalk and back to the jetty to await our shuttle back to Spirit of Enderby. It was a casual and relaxed afternoon – all in our own time. The last Zodiac returned right on 1900 hours and dinner was served.

Each time we have visited an island group down here we get to know it and its personality. Campbell Island is no different. With an enjoyable dinner on board to finish the day we are looking forward to our adventures tomorrow – ready for whatever the day brings.

Day 6: Saturday 15 January 2022
Campbell Island

A slightly more damp start to the day with low clouds and 6 degrees Celsius. It didn’t take long for the cloud to lift… somewhat. A group of 15 of us decided to join Murray and Julia and head back up to Col Lyall for more botanising and birding. They left the ship at 0800 hours and had the morning to enjoy more action on the slopes. Another larger group joined a Zodiac tour in the outer reaches of Perseverance Harbour. They made their way down the southern side of the harbour and had very good sightings of Campbell Island Cormorants, Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions, New Zealand Fur Seals, terns and gulls. The highlight was several Light-mantled Sooty Albatross on nests quite close to the water's edge, just tucked up in the start of the foliage. Once at the entrance of the harbour, we transited across to the other side to see the Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lion colony. While being quite a different location site to the Enderby Bay colony we could still see the harems and pups about. When we turned to head back to the ship, the wind picked up with some cold squalls coming through. We headed back to the lee of the southern side and hunkered down while we were ferried back to the ship to warm up and enjoy a cuppa.

The Col Lyall group were collected at 1100hrs and with everyone aboard we lifted anchor. As we were departing Perseverance Harbour we held our group photo opportunity before tucking into the next harbour up North East Harbour. We could see Col Lyall in the distance at the top of this harbour and our Captain dropped anchor while we enjoyed lunch.

At 1300hrs we were given word that conditions were ‘right’ for our last hurrah of the expedition – our final Zodiac cruise. With five Zodiacs in the water, we boarded and headed outside the safety of the harbour into the outer waters of Campbell Island. Rounding the corner we headed north for Bull Rock, weaving our way into caves, viewing waterfalls, and through arches. The huge volcanic cliffs were geologically dramatic. Anisotome, grasses, tussock and stilbocarpa tumbled across the cliff tops and down through crevices. Between the foliage we could see the many nesting albatross – mainly Campbell Island, Black-brow and a few Grey-headed and more solitary light-mantled sooty albatross. The sky was alive with the large wingspans of these birds. We witnessed a sea lion eating the remnants of either a sea lion or fur seal pup (photos will need to be analysed) which was fairly macabre but fascinating. Cruising the cliff line gave a great perspective of the nesting birds along the cliff and once at Bull Rock we could see the change in ocean surface indicating strong currents and wind chop. This was our turnaround point. As we headed for the ship some stopped at a raft of albatross on the water, a mix of Campbell and Grey-headed. After a transit back to the ship we were somewhat sad to have to turn in our Zodiac lifejackets and gumboots – heraldI the start of the end of our expedition of a lifetime.

With 360 nautical mile run to Bluff, it was time for Captain Pruss and his crew to turn Spirit of Enderby towards New Zealand which would take us approximately a day and a half sailing. The rest of the afternoon was in gentle seas with resting, reading and enjoying the company of friends. It has been quite a week of adventure with a great group of people with diverse and unique backgrounds. Many aboard have their own fascinating stories to tell as to how they ended up joining the voyage, their connection with these southern lands and their connection with the ocean.

Day 7: Sunday 16th January 2022
At Sea, en route to Bluff

Our day at sea was a relaxing and reflective one. The seas were calm in the morning, and became even calmer as the day went on. Not a lot of birding as sea fog surrounded the ship for much of the day. We downloaded and processed photos, wrote logs, enjoyed cups of tea with new and old friends, chatted about anything and everything. There were a few formal gatherings in the Lecture Room – a lecture from Murray on ‘Global Perspectives in Conservation’, and a lecture from Niall on ‘Habitat Restoration in the Wider Context’.

Costa, Chief Engineer, led several Engine Room tours which allowed us to see the inner workings of the Spirit of Enderby. We could see the pride he has in his job. Later in the afternoon, Helen gave us our Expedition Recap, thanking the Expedition Team aboard, the crew of the ship, and also all of us who chose to join the adventure into the Southern Ocean to the Subantarctic Snares, Auckland and Campbell Islands. After champagne and ‘cheers’ in the Bar we our final farewell dinner was served. Stephen and Steve have really provided a wonderful menu across the entire week we have been aboard. After dinner the evening was clear for a few more social drinks, packing and a restful night entering the coastal waters of New Zealand.

Day 8: Monday 17 January 2022
Bluff, New Zealand

With a new perspective on our southern-most islands, a week’s reprieve away from life as we know it, we entered back into the world. Our luggage was packed, transferred and we boarded the bus for our various drop off points. Many of us were looking forward to sharing our experiences with family and friends as newly-fledged ambassadors for the Subantarctic Islands. Go well, friends, go well.