2167: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean 18 December 2021
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Day 1 - Saturday 18th Dec – Invercargill
Travelling from around the country, we made our way to Invercargill’s Ascot Park Hotel, where we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon getting last minute supplies or exploring the town. Then we gathered for our first dinner together where we met our Expedition Team and enjoyed our last night on land before our Southern Ocean adventure begins!
Day 2 - Sunday 19th Dec – Curio Bay, leaving Invercargill, boarding ship and heading south
After breakfast at the Ascot, most of the group headed off to windy Curio Bay with Niall. Here people walked across the petrified forest, on the rocky wave platform, and visited the café and interactive visitors centre. One of the guests opened a muesli bar and had it stolen by a black-backed gull, the first big animal encounter of the expedition.
After lunch back at the Ascot, we boarded the bus for the short trip to Bluff and boarded the Spirit of Enderby. After being shown our rooms and doing some unpacking, we headed to the lecture room for a briefing from our Expedition Leader Katja. Soon afterwards, we had the lifeboat drill with all Heritage passengers and staff getting into one of the two lifeboats, which were then closed, and a short explanation of the lifeboat process given. We set sail just after 1600 hours heading towards Rakiura (Stewart Island). Soon after the Heritage staff were introduced in the lecture room. Window covers on the port holes, back doors and side doors were all closed; a sign of things to come. A wonderful dinner was enjoyed before the sea picked up after leaving the relatively sheltered coast of Rakiura. Despite the somewhat lumpy sea, many people still spent time outside or on the bridge, with a number of seabird species spotted, including the Mottled Petrel as we left the southern tip of Rakiura, a new bird of the year for Harry. Scott spotted our first penguin species, a Fiordland crested Penguin. Those in the bridge experienced an awesome lightning display. Richard managed to capture the lightning in the background on one of his video blogs. Before people turned in for the night, a reminder was given to secure items in rooms, with a big sea expected overnight.
Day 3 - Monday 20th Dec – Onward to the Auckland Islands
The overnight conditions were challenging with many struggling to get a good night’s sleep. The big sea also meant that a visit to the Snares was not possible. For a large part of the day, most people hunkered down in their rooms, resting and avoiding moving around the ship. While things were fairly quiet on the bird front, a number of species were spotted including Southern Royal Albatross and some smaller albatross species. Scott got his 200th bird for the year, the Black-bellied Storm Petrel.
At around 1600 hours we made it to the Northern tip of the Auckland Islands. The wind was still strong our Captain found a sheltered spot in Port Ross to anchor for the night. We completed our biosecurity checks (checking clothing for seeds etc.) as the plan was for a landing on the Auckland Islands the next day. Katja gave a talk after dinner introducing the Auckland Islands as we planned to spend a few more days on the islands. 
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
Day 4 - Tuesday 21st Dec – Auckland Islands: Hardwicke Settlement and Ship Cruise (via Chambres and Musgrave Inlets to Carnley Harbour)
After breakfast we got ready for our first off-ship adventure while our captain moved the ship closer to Erebus Cove, the location of the Hardwicke settlement (from 1849-1852). Zodiac shuttles ran from the ship to Erebus Cove. We set off in windy but fairly sunny weather. Soon after arriving at the cove, the skies darkened and there was a brief storm with hail, thunder and lightning. Luckily it didn’t last long and we continued to explore the location of the settlement of 170 years ago. There were several sea lion encounters (including on the landing point and a young sea lion near the final part of the track (just short of the actual settlement location). A number of people were also lucky enough to see a Hoiho (Yellow-eyed Penguin) make its way from the forest down to the shore. At around 11 am we started the shuttle runs back to the ship, with a short Zodiac cruise detour around Terror Cove. There we observed proposing Yellow-Eyed Penguins as well as other sea birds.
After lunch the ship pulled anchor and we started to move out of Port Ross and down the eastern coast of Auckland Island. The wind was still fairly ferocious but the swell not nearly as large as we had experienced the previous day. We made our way into Chambres Inlet and then Musgrave Inlet in the hope that we might get out in the Zodiacs again. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to get out in the Zodiacs due to the strong winds (gusting at more than 40 knots) but the Captain did an incredible job, bringing the ship close to the shore on the northern side of Musgrave Inlet. This allowed us to see the small colony of Eastern Rockhopper Penguins breeding on the rocks. Musgrave Inlet also provided the first sightings of Light-mantled Sooty Albatross.
After leaving Musgrave Inlet, we continued south and tucked into Carnley Harbour. Andy gave a lecture on seabirds of the Southern Ocean before a recap of the day up in the bar. After dinner Niall did his first “Bird List” meeting recording the birds that had been seen on the first three days of the expedition.
Day 5 - Wednesday 22nd Dec – Auckland Islands: Tagua, Carnley Habour ship cruise and reposition to Port Ross
We enjoyed a calm night tucked in near Tagua Bay in Carnley Harbour. After breakfast the Zodiacs were used to shuttle us to Tagua Bay beach (where the resident sea lion was thankfully nowhere to be seen). After negotiating a slippery step from the beach up to the forest we followed the track up through Southern Rata and Dracophyllum forest to the remains of the lower hut from the Coastwatching era. From there we continued up the track, with the weather closing in, and made it to the Coastwatchers Hut looking out over the harbour. After making our way back down to the beach we returned to the ship for lunch, followed by a ship cruise up the North Arm of the harbour before heading up the Western Arm (alongside the impressive Adams Island) to the Victoria Passage. Some good bird watching was enjoyed including Light-mantled Sooty Albatross soaring close to the ship and several Gibson’s Albatross (with nesting birds spotted on Adams Island). On the way back down Carnley Harbour we stopped at sheltered Camp Cove. Captain anchored the ship and we dropped passengers off at the shore to explore the forest and a hut that we’d spotted earlier when scouting the landing spot. A short Zodiac cruise allowed some further exploration of the area. Late afternoon we continued out of Carnley Harbour and headed north, eventually positioning back in Port Ross for the night. We were all nervous, hoping for good conditions for landing on Enderby Island the next day.
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
Day 6 - Thursday 23rd Dec – Auckland Islands: Enderby Island and south to Campbell Island
We woke to promising weather conditions in the morning for the planned day on Enderby Island. Katja and Lindsay took a Zodiac out to check out where the best spot was to land and we decided to land on the eastern end of Sandy Bay on the rock platform. By 0800 hours those completing the long loop around the island arrived at Enderby with those doing the boardwalk landing a little later. The walk around the island was superb. After pushing through the scrub an Auckland Island snipe was spotted (another new bird for Harry!), and everyone in the group (28 people) got to see it. The sea lions were making their presence known with a few close encounters. Guides worked hard to ensure guests were safe! A superb lunch spot was enjoyed beside an Auckland Island Shag nesting site, overlooking the ocean. The group continued on, with many Yellow-eyed Penguin sightings along the way. Despite a few brief showers, the weather was amazing. At about 1330 we reached the Boardwalk and sat and enjoyed the view over the ocean. The boardwalk group had already completed their walk across the island with some heading back to the ship. The remaining people headed down to Sandy Bay, walking beside the beach (and behind the breeding groups of Hokker's/New Zealand Sea Lions) to the Zodiac pick up spot. A superb day at Enderby Island for all. Once back on board, the ship set off for the journey south to Campbell Island. 
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
Day 7 - Friday 24th Dec – Campbell Island: Bull Rock and Perseverance Harbour walks
We arrived at Campbell Island at about 7.30 am and began our exploration of the island by cruising down past Bull Rock. Conditions looked good for a Zodiac cruise and so the captain pulled the ship into the sheltered Northeast Harbour and set anchor. We got the Zodiacs into the water at 0830 and immediately the heavens opened. However, it was short lived and we moved out of the harbour and along the coastline towards Bull Rock. Conditions were very good allowing us to make it almost all the way to North Cape. The views of the Campbell Albatross were superb.
There were thousands of the birds nesting high on the stunning volcanic cliffs with numerous birds soaring in the air around us. As well as viewing the albatross we explored the coastline including a stunning arch we Zodiac cruised through, and layers of hardened lava and ash that made up the cliffs. We headed back to the ship (arriving at about 1130) as the wind started to pick up, an excellent start to our time at Campbell Island.
Spirit of Enderby then began the short journey down to Perseverance Harbour where we would be for the next 24 hours. At around 1400 hours Zodiac shuttles ran us down to Garden Cove at the head of the Harbour. Here there were four options for the afternoon. The keen climbers set off for the summit of Mt Honey (569 m), the tallest mountain on the island. One group headed for the saddle between the harbour and the southern part of the island, while a 3rd group went partway up this track. The final group explored the Garden Cove area. Eleven people got to the top of Mt Honey and had an excellent time with Southern Royal Albatross on the slopes as they headed up, observed a Campbell Island Snipe and experienced some of the islands awesome plant life. Twenty people made it to the saddle with several of the photographers heading up a little further to compose some shots of the south side of the Island. In the late afternoon, Zodiacs were used to transport the various groups back the ship. Two tough guests then did their ‘polar plunge’ given that Campbell Island was the most southerly we would be on the voyage.
We settled into a calm night in the harbour, enjoying a stunning sky. A great way to spend Christmas Eve!
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
Day 8 - Saturday 25th Dec – Christmas Day at Campbell Island
Christmas Day in the Subantarctic!
It was an early morning start for the 10 who were taking on the Northwest Bay walk today with breakfast at 0630 hours. Niall dropped the group over to Tucker Cove to begin their walk at about 7.30 am. It began with a climb up to the ridge where there was an incredible megaherb garden, breath-taking views, as well as nesting Southern Royal Albatross. They then dropped down to Northwest Bay where they were greeted by Sea Lions and several Elephant Seals. They didn’t linger long on the beach before beginning the climb up through dense scrub. Sea Lions could be heard but not seen encouraging the group to stick close together and travel with pace! A fence line was followed up into the tussock dominated slopes, and lunch was enjoyed up on the tussocks. Suz and Ron were greeted by a skua and managed to get some great footage of the bird descending on them. More Albatross nests were passed before the group arrived for a quick rest stop at the cave above Camp Cove. With energy to spare, they were picked up by Zodiac at about 1330, and dropped off at Beeman Point to do the Col Lyall walk joining the remaining passengers for a windy explore up the boardwalk.
The other passengers departed after breakfast for a Zodiac cruise of Perseverance Harbour. The cruise began with an explore of Tucker Cove with some Bar-tailed Godwits sighted on shore. We also visited the ‘world’s loneliest tree’ a Sitka Spruce that was planted in the early 1900s. There was the opportunity to view the Campbell Island Teal at close range near the shore. We then motored down beyond the ship to Shoal Point to see a small breeding colony of Sea Lion. Several young pups were visible amongst the adult Sea Lions. The journey back to the trip was challenging with the wind having picked up. Zodiacs took the longer route into the waves to avoid soaking guests and it was a relief to finally make it back to the ship.
After lunch, Zodiac shuttles ran across the harbour to Beeman Point where the walk up to Col Lyall began. The first obstacle to negotiate was the Sea Lion guarding the track. From here the boardwalk track continued around behind Beeman Hill and climbed up to the ridge towards Col Lyall. Megaherbs were in abundance, particularly at the higher elevations. There were also a number of Southern Royal Albatross nesting close to the track. The wind had picked up to a very strong gale at this point and a number of people turned back to avoid getting blown off their feet. The megaherb garden near the Col itself was mind-blowing. The incredible density of plants and wonderful colour with the yellow Bulbinella rossii in full flower along with various Anisotome and Pleurophyllum species. The views over to Northwest Bay and Dent Island were spectacular. A great way to spend Christmas Day!
Back on board we enjoyed an amazing Christmas feast with a ham, turkey and salmon. This would be the last night in a sheltered harbour and our journey towards the Antipodes began just as dinner finished. The forecast was for strong winds, and this became evident as the ship began to rock and roll once we exited Perseverance Harbour. 
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
Day 9 - Sunday 26th Dec – At Sea (heading to the Antipodes)
It was a fairly rough night at sea meaning a challenging sleep for many. Some stayed in their rooms in the morning and eventually emerged as the sea calmed down around the middle of the day. The day itself was a chance for people to catch up on sleep and rest after three busy days at Enderby and Campbell Island. In the mid-afternoon Lindsay gave a lecture on the rat eradication project he was involved in on Campbell Island in the early 2000s. This involved 19 staff and 5 helicopters in a carefully planned operation. It also involved a follow up visit two years later to determine how successful the eradication efforts had been. It was an incredible success story and at the time was the largest island to be cleared of rats in the world. In the early evening Katja overviewed the plans for the next day, with a hopeful Zodiac cruise around some of the Antipodes coastline (weather permitting). The evening finished with the species list meeting, run by Niall and then some fun with a quiz, run by Avi (and won by the Wesley Snipers – largely due to Damon’s incredible knowledge of flags). We went to bed looking forward to the prospect of a visit to the Antipodes the next day.
Day 10 - Monday 27th Dec – The Antipodes and on towards the Bounty Islands
We woke to a message that whales had been spotted off the bow of the ship. For the next half hour we enjoyed watching a pod of about 30 Pilot Whales cruising around the ship.
Just before 0900 Katja gave an introductory talk about the Antipodes and then it was time to get ready for our Zodiac cruise of the Antipodes coastline. The weather was overcast and drizzly. However, by the time we were on the water, the drizzle had cleared, and conditions were excellent for an explore. We set off at Ringdove Bay, on the Southeast side of the island. The great conditions meant we stayed out for about 3 hours (and had to delay lunch), making it back to the ship at about 1300 hours. During the cruise alongside the coastline, we saw good numbers of Erect-crested Penguins (with chicks), some Rockhopper Penguins, many New Zealand Fur Seals and a small group of Elephant Seals. We also managed to sight both the parakeet species found on the Antipodes; The Antipodes Parakeet and Reischek’s Parakeet. The geology of the island was also stunning with great examples of basaltic columns, obvious ash layers and volcanic intrusions. After a late lunch our Captain took us on a circumnavigation of the island: a wonderful end to our time at the Antipodes.
We headed north for the Bounty Islands at about 1600 hours. The sea was relatively calm (compared to earlier in the trip) and we enjoyed time to relax after a busy few days. During the afternoon Niall gave a talk on ‘Restoration Ecology’ and Katja gave an overview of the Bounty Islands. At about 2130 the skies lit up in an incredible sunset. A fitting end to a brilliant day. 
(c) Aviaaja Schluter, Heritage Expeditions
Day 11 - Tuesday 28th Dec – The Bounty Islands and the start of the journey home
An early start at the Bounty Islands was planned to ensure enough time for our return journey to Bluff. Katja checked out the conditions at about 0500. Unfortunately, the large swell meant the zodiac cruise of the Bounty Islands wasn’t possible. Instead, we spent about two hours doing a ship cruise around the island group (20 islands) before breakfast. Our Captain was able to get us incredibly close to the rocky outcrops, giving great views of the wildlife. The number of birds was incredible as were the sounds and smells coming from the various islands. Huge rafts of Erect-crested Penguins were viewable from the ship as were the other seabirds breeding on the islands including Salvin’s Albatross, Snares Cape Petrel, Bounty Island Shag (arguably the world’s rarest shag) and Fulmar Prion. Leaving the Bounty Islands meant the end of our Island visits with the next stop Bluff.
Andy gave a talk on “Migration, Dispersal and Navigation in Birds” mid-morning. Just after 1400 someone spotted a whale (after an earlier sighting failed to re-appear). We got out onto the various viewing points from the ship and for about 30 minutes enjoyed seeing a couple of whales surface repeatedly, blowing from their blow-holes. The other feature we could see was a small sharp fin. The best-guess regarding the type of whale was a Fin Whale. The ocean itself was incredibly calm and pleasant, in stark contrast to what we had experienced a week earlier as we began our expedition. Mid-afternoon and Niall showed the documentary “Fools and Dreamers”, the story of Hugh Wilson and the restoration of Hinewai Reserve (Banks Peninsula) using gorse as a nursery plant for natives.
Katja gave a fascinating talk about the ‘Southern Ocean’ explaining the integral role it plays in maintaining stability in global ocean systems. Later in the afternoon Captain Pruss hosted a tour of the bridge, explaining the ship’s systems and the amazing capabilities of this vessel. Before dinner Richard Young, who was leading a group of photographers on this expedition, shared his incredible waves image taken during the early part of the expedition as we headed towards the Auckland Islands. He also shared images from the photographers in his group. It was great to see the different ways people had captured aspects of our journey.
Day 12 - Wednesday 29th Dec – At Sea to Bluff
It was another relatively good night in terms of the ocean conditions with just a moderate swell meaning most had a good night’s sleep. Today represented the final day at sea and the end of our adventure.
We got another call around 1000 that a whale had been spotted. For the next hour the binoculars and cameras were out, and all eyes were scanning the seas for more sightings. We soon saw a tail fluke appear quite a distance from the ship, a sign that a whale had dived. It appeared to be a large whale with some suggesting it was a Sperm Whale. Soon after another whale appeared much closer to the ship, giving great views to all on board and confirming the whales (perhaps 10 or more individuals) as Sperm Whales. Two more whales passed by, again nearby the ship. It was an incredible experience, seeing such large marine mammals right at the end of our trip.
Later in the morning Richard Young gave a talk regarding photography titled “Expressive Photography” and why you shouldn’t take the photos that everybody takes. It was a great opportunity to think about how we photograph and what our motivations are in creating images. After lunch there was a showing of the movie “Spectre – Journey to the End of the Earth with Leo Holding”, about a mountaineering adventure in the Antarctic.
The day finished with our expedition slideshow and then our celebration dinner, signalling that our journey was coming to an end. It seemed like a long time ago that we had ventured out from Bluff in rough seas to begin what was an incredible adventure.
Day 13 - Thursday 30th Dec – Invercargill, Bluff
As we breakfasted, the ship tied up in the Port of Bluff. Our amazing voyage had come to an end. Saying our farewells to friends old and new, we knew we’d gathered memories that would live on for ever, and that the Subantarctic Islands would always occupy a special place in each of our hearts.
(c) Katja Riedel, Heritage Expeditions
