2192: Chatham Islands: New Zealand's Easternmost Islands 21 March 2021

Day 1: Sunday March 21, 2021

Ōtautahi Christchurch gave us a balmy evening of opportunity to explore this oldest and newest city of New Zealand. For those who ventured out from our inner city Sudima Hotel the pervading sense is of purpose and drive, a determination to rebuild, and create a city for the future. The locals were likewise enjoying the evening.

Day 2: Monday March 22, 2021 – Ōtautahi Christchurch to Rekohu Chatham Islands

And so it begins, as we shared the breakfast with other hotel guests, it soon became apparent who would be our fellow explorers on our Chatham Island expedition – friends waiting to be made.

Isaac and Shirley from the Heritage Expeditions office greeted us and all too soon it was on to the coach, check in at the airport and with handwritten boarding pass in hand we boarded Air Chathams Convair for the flight east to Chatham. Billed as the fastest turbojet, our smooth flight belied the years of service this trusty plane has delivered.

As we dropped through the cloud cover, Te Whanga Lagoon and the main Chatham Island was in view before we banked to land at Tuuta Airport. A quick transit and crossover with the outgoing team and we were into the coach transport aptly named ‘Albatross’.

Our Rekohu introduction commenced with our welcome to Kopinga, the Moriori cultural complex and marae built in the shape of a Chatham Island Albatross, and nestled into the hills overlooking Lake Huro and Te Whanga Lagoon. The word Kopinga comes from the word Kopi, which grow in groves and served as formal meeting places. The main meeting room has a circular shape of a Kopi grove, the five-sided central seat is a tribute to the basalt rock columns at Ohira Bay and, most unusual of all, in recognition of the challenging weather conditions visitors are welcomed inside the building itself. It is quite deliberately a marae like no other. Those Moriori who were living before the Ngata Mutuna arrived and ‘walked the land’ are recorded on the centre post, as remembered by elders. Today the building includes a display of dendrogylphs in Kopi trees, a display of the Crown’s apology to the Moriori people and a Board of Honour which includes Michael King, author of the authoritative work – Moriori: A People Rediscovered.

Around the communal table we delved into our packed lunch as we shared the time with each other before gathering in the meeting room where Deb Goomes welcomed us to this unique marae, shared Moriori insights and culture combined with her own life story. Her lineage being expressed as the melting place which created her life – Moriori, Maori, Portuguese and Irish, possibly more. With rare skill her presentation connected past, present and future with the threads of all life that connects with Moriori, whilst her description on life for the Moriori pre-European and pre-Maori arrival contrasted vividly with the record of the years between then and now. Artistic depictions within the building graphically express the links of past and present, while hinting at the richness possible in the future.

Crossing the farmland from Kopinga and out to the southeast coast we arrived to the hamlet of Owenga. Surrounded by peaceful combinations of Chatham Island forget me not, silver astelia chathamica and lush well mown lawn with a long view across the land of his birth right across to Kaingaroa, the Tommy Solomon statue was commissioned by the Solomon family in 1984 and unveiled by the then Prime Minister David Lange in 1986. Better known as Tommy Solomon, Tame Horomona Rehe was the last full-blooded Moriori, he died in 1933 at 49 years, having been a popular man, successful farmer and business man.

On the rocky shore there were Chatham Island Shags (cormorants). A scramble through the rocks located Chatham Island geranium as a local species often browsed out.

Looking across the seas of the eastern shore and on to the lagoon the impression of the day is a land borne of water, glistening silver and sparkly or a sedate grey to match the moods of a moment, the lushness of the Chatham Island flax with its startingly wide leaves in a more vibrant green all held together by the warmth and friendliness of a people who are the Chatham Islanders.

We completed our first day land exploration with arrival to the main wharf in Waitangi where our Zodiacs would take us to Spirit of Enderby. Flashing their dorsal fins, a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins displayed in the bay making the day totally memorable. The privilege in being welcomed to Rekohu is shared to all.

Chris Todd Expedition Leader and Holly Adams Cruise Director welcomed us aboard, ensured we learnt about shipboard life and safety before we joined in a lifeboat drill including donning life jackets and climbing into one of the two lifeboats. The rumble of their engines starting was reassuringly loud within the lifeboat.

A dinner of culinary delights was presented by the chefs Lance and Lindsay and all too soon the day was done as we rested at anchor at Waitangi.

Day 3: Tuesday March 23, 2021 – Spirit of Enderby at anchor Waitangi

For some the first night on board was restful, for others the story varied with all agreeing the ship’s motion was gentle. The wholesome and hearty breakfast choices were quickly followed by collecting packed lunches and our disembarkation to shore for a day’s exploration to the northern sunshine coast.

Life vest on, tag turned, backpack on with lunch safely inside, down the gangway and smartly into the Zodiac to shore before boarding our coach to travel through Waitangi and Te One to Ohira Bay with Basalt Columns, volcanic material which cooled into hexagonal columns leaving a honeycomb of blocks on the beach edge. Nature’s garden has cloaked the blocks with hebe chathamica and an occasional flax squeezing their roots into the cracks before trailing or curving gracefully across like a painted landscape over the white and yellow lichen blanketing the columns.

Two swans revelled in the rolling, foamy sea creating a surreal scene.

Blind Jim’s where the geological formations include a lagoon beach with fossilised shark teeth was our next visit. The white shell sand shoreline was cloaked by Lions Mane jellyfish with our intrepid guide and driver Jane sharing the joy of a fossilised shark’s tooth find and fossilised kina spikes. The peacefulness that we are becoming acquainted with surrounded this lagoon beach.

A short ride north is the entrance to Nikau Reserve, a 19-hectare fenced area home to a mix of indigenous Chatham Island flora. Gigantism features surprised us with a coprosma as large as a tree, Hebe diffenbachi, a mid-range shrub before, we saw Hebe barkerii as a tree. Even the supplejack leaves are larger than those on mainland New Zealand, whilst the tangle of supplejack always defies anyone to enter their labyrinth, except the introduced Weka which roams easily throughout.

The wooden shelter became a fitting stop to enjoy lunch before exploring the pathways of the reserve. Lancewood with no juvenile stage, mixed with lacebark and Chatham Island astelia soon included Chatham Island Christmas tree, Rautini, with Red Admiral butterflies alighting on the spent flowers, leaves and even feeding on the sap. Red, orange, white and black fungi featured on the decaying logs as they completed the life cycle whilst a lush grove of Chatham Island nikau palms with spathes falling and flowers blooming was the ultimate climax of the visit. Realisation of our dawdling pace and the steady march of time saw a hasty return to the shelter and out to the waiting bus before we pushed on to Ocean Mail Beach. Our day had been punctuated by showers with the next arriving as we viewed or walked the white sand of Ocean Mail, so named from the ship Ocean Mail which ran aground on nearby French Reef in 1877.

Furthest north was Kaingaroa, a fishing village with school, social club and houses including “The Ultimate Hideaway”. A walk around to the beach on the headland saw Rod Morris, our resident natural history lecturer, locating a significant patch of sow thistle and crystal woad – both rare plants on the Chathams.

We hastened back to Waitangi and onto the ship, our home away from home.

Impressions of the day – Chatham Island ake ake trees and their will to live whatever the elements throw at them, how big the main Chatham Island is and we did not even go as far as the road can take us, blue seas and white sand are not only found in the tropics.

Day 4: Wednesday 24 March, 2021 – Spirit of Enderby at anchor Waitangi

Today we knew the routine, breakfast, collect lunch, gear for the day, lifejacket, turn the tag, down the gangway one step at a time, not in a slide to the bottom(!!) and into the Zodiac for the quick trip ashore. Jane, our local driver and guide met us with 'Albatross' her trusty bus, and we were off to the south coast.

Turning right and south at Waitangi, passed the Chatham Islands’ government hub of the NZ Police, Council and Museum, we were very quickly passing through farm land used for sheep and beef. All stock leave the island as livestock, recuperate on a mainland farm before the final journey into meat products. There is currently no meat processing plant on the Chathams.

At Awatotara Reserve the fence line demarcates between pasture and reserve – a very visual difference. This private reserve is a rare example of south coast Chatham Island forest. Created by Bruce and Liz Tuanui its transition from shrub with a few adult trees to a thriving ecological native forest has occurred over 25 years. Entry is by permission. Bruce and Liz met us at the reserve entrance, taking time out from their busy day which included attending a wedding at Kaingaroa.

As Bruce and Liz shared the success of the reserve, flights of parea (Chatham Island pigeon), parakeets and fantail swooped across the valley in marked contrast to the monoculture of grass or gorse. Those walking to the coast, or on the shorter walk, disappeared into the bush allowing the roadsiders peace to appreciate nature’s diversity from the comfort of well-placed chairs.

The roadside gang enjoyed the occasional wander along the road being surprised at the plant diversity within the reserve. As wanderers from either the short walk group or the speedsters from the fast group returned the conversation and observations grew to describe the walk to the coast with a good swell crashing in from the south east, or the extending theme of island gigantism with orchid leaves and flowers seed heads being larger than those of the supposedly same species on mainland New Zealand.

A steady watch was kept on the parea movements and also the warbler with differing levels of success. By the time all the walkers returned everyone had lunched from their supplies and we boarded the coach bound for Waitangi.

Waitangi is the main centre of the Chatham Islands, the various entities enticing us to explore were the Hotel Chatham for its coffee and WiFi, and Kaia the chef explaining her Chatham Island freeze dried honey product which has gained a range of innovation awards. Next stop was the Chatham Island Council with the Museum collection including a wide range of artefacts. Bird boxes and nests from the Chatham Island Black Robin rescue programme of the 1970’s and through the 80’s attributed to Don Merton, the instigator of the Shining Cuckoo-like use of another bird’s nest to increase the Black Robin numbers. Information on the Ocean Mail wreck, an example of a Moriori float/canoe made from flax flower stems, hebe branches and raupo reeds (or similar), geological finds, fossilised sharks teeth and colonial artefacts. In progress is a new building for the Council and Museum.

Many took the opportunity to visit the Store and sat on the outside seat to enjoy an ice cream while others wandered across the river to the beach looking for Chatham Island Oystercatchers. Road signage to the Bottle Store, Catholic Church and the Hospital, all on the same sign post highlighted how close the main centre services are.

Those that wished to, returned by Zodiac to Spirit of Enderby, while the remainder of us went north on the Te One Road. Stopping at a farm gate signed as Nukuku Caves, we walked across a rapidly changing landscape with Central Otago brown grass stretching into limestone sink holes, then Kowhai trees and finally descending to the lagoon shore. Our local guide invited us to follow her into the cave enclosure to hear the legend of Nukuku, the Moriori ancestor who developed the culture of peace or Nunuku’s Law. The cave face has been changed with the graffiti ‘Te Ana o Moe’ meaning a cave of sleep, or dreams or possibly even death, gouged into the limestone, as well as metal poles which once held a cover to protect against the elements. The interpretation of the carvings ranged from seals, birds and fish. The lagoon shore stretched into the distance with the far side like islands where the lagoon, on occasion, opens to the sea. Wandering further around the lagoon we came to a ridge where investigations have shown habitation occurred.

And so back to Waitangi and out to Spirit of Enderby, joined by Jane, our local guide, plus Bruce and Liz Tuanui who had been invited to travel with us for the next few days. Lisa, sister of our Pitt Island host also joined for the trip across to Pitt Island.

An early departure during dinner soon affected the joy of eating as the motion of the ocean affected many, this being our first outing into the open sea. By midnight we were in the shelter of Pitt Island and put the anchor down off Flowerpot Bay.

Day 5: Thursday 25 March, 2021 – Spirit of Enderby at Flowerpot Bay, Pitt Island

The hours of calm and sleep before the morning helped restore personal equilibrium till morning dawned. From the ship we could see Flowerpot Cove and Flowerpot Lodge nestled into the hillside of the bay.

An early breakfast, then an introduction to Pitt Island from our host for the visit - Brent Mallison.

Divided into three groups, everyone alternatively explored Smugglers Cove and the coastline by Zodiac and went across the island to Caravan Bush. As with the main Chathams the geology of Pitt is on display through the cliffs, alternating in their colours from warm red through to slaty-grey, interspersed with limestone formations of fantastic form. The name Flowerpot reflects a sea-eroded formation which had become shaped like a flower pot rumoured to have once included plants growing in the top.

And so to Caravan Bush - after arriving on the beach, we were picked up by Brent with a van. As we bumped our way across Pitt Island, we saw rolling farmland dotted with sheep and cows. Liz pointed out the house where she was born and told us that the whole coast was still covered with forest when she was a little girl. Today most of the bush has been lost except for a few pockets and Caravan Bush, the reserve that we were going to visit. A cat-proof fence, with narrow mesh and netting up to 2 metres high surrounds the area. After passing through the gate, we walked to the hut where Brent pointed out the different trees, all growing much taller than on the mainland. For example, the Hebe here reaches heights of up to 4 metres and looks like a tree.

From the hut we headed off to look at nest boxes of the Chatham Island/Magenta Petrels. In another conservation effort Chatham Island Petrels are being transferred to the Reserve. They are competing with prions for nesting burrows, often being kicked out by the much feistier prion. A ‘prion exclusion device’, a piece of neoprene with a narrow slit, is put in front of each entrance tunnel. And while the petrels don’t mind squeezing through the fabric it deters prions from entering. When Brent briefly opened two of the nest boxes, two fluffy grey petrel chicks were exposed to daylight. They lifted their small heads and looked around with their black button eyes. After this heart-warming experience, we continued on the trail enjoying the regenerating bush and the company of Fantails, Grey Warblers, Tomtits and Tuis. We could hear parakeets but didn’t see them. After a bit more than an hour we were back at the hut where we sat down in the sun and listened to the birds. Especially one Tomtit which kept entertaining us by posing on tree branches for the photographers. Very soon the van arrived dropping off the next group of explorers while we made our way back to the beach at Flowerpot.

A welcome cooked lunch on board was enjoyed by all after our three groups returned to the ship, and then it was off to Mangere Island, a stronghold of the Chatham Island Black Robin, a true species rescue driven by the work of Don Merton.

Our Zodiac cruise along the wooded shoreline became a surfing saga before we turned for the Mangere Island landing bay, and then along the coastline of Little Mangere Island. A special thank you to Chris, Katja, Matt and Costa who responded to the changing conditions with appropriate actions. The geology continued to astound us everywhere we looked with towering cliffs, compressed tuff and rocky platforms cloaked with seaweed rising above the white spray from rushing waves and surges of a sea changing from azure to aqua edged by white.

The shelter afforded by Little Mangere allowed Rod Morris to share his experiences within the New Zealand Wildlife Service in transferring the seven Chatham Island Black Robin from Little Mangere to Mangere. Son Sam gained a new appreciation and respect for his father’s work as we followed the trail of rock scrambles, ledge sidles, wire ladders and an overhang as the route to the top where two female and five male birds lived.

Buller’s Albatross frequented us as we Zodiac cruised back to the ship with one paddling in close as we waited to cross from Zodiac to ship and up the gangway. Late afternoon we steamed back into the lee of Pitt Island for our overnight anchorage in calm waters.

Dinner was, as ever, appreciated, our thanks to Lindsay and Lance for their continued work and ability to produce tempting, tasty meals.

Day 6: Friday 26 March, 2021 – The Pyramid, South East Island and Rangatira

Engines rumbling into life woke many as we departed from our anchorage crossing a calming sea to The Pyramid, giving this rock full credit and respect for its place as the main breeding site of the Chatham Island Albatross. Its pyramidal shape varied as we circled once to gaze in wonder at the forbidding rocky shore and sheer sides, wondering ‘just how an albatross raises a chick on such a challenging site?’

Our second circumnavigation was accompanied by a trail of chum giving us a congestion of Albatross as they sought the fishy smell source, or seized on a globule of chum which Matt, with his cast iron stomach, ladled out. Northern Royal, Buller’s and Chatham Island Albatross starred in the show supported by Giant Petrel. Their antics in feeding and following allowed everyone to view their agility, utility of wind and strength and their ability to seize and swallow rapidly. Mainly Buller’s followed as we departed northward to South East Island (Rangatira) where we dropped anchor before learning more of the seabirds of the Southern Ocean from Matt as he shared his enthusiasm for these wanderers of the oceans. A most memorable image of a Grey-backed Storm Petrel relatively close to a Northern Royal Albatross startled us with the size difference - how do either cope with a Southern Ocean storm?

The honey-coloured eyes of a Campbell Albatross contrast dramatically with the almost gothic look of its black brow, while the rich yellow in a Chatham Island Albatross’ beak might be the next latest look for our first world fashion industry.

Note from the expedition team: when sorting your albatross images watch for a coloured numbered tag on the ankle of a Chatham Island Albatross, can you see one? If so please send the image to [email protected] and Shirley will pass it on to Liz and Bruce Tuanui.

Our afternoon Zodiac exploration along Rangatira’s shoreline gave us an appreciation for birdlife on a predator free island – Tuis raced and flitted through all the trees as far as we could see, parakeet (probably Red-crowned) chased both themselves and the Tui, Warblers called and flocked, Pitt Island Shag tucked into the rocky niches and Shore Plover flitted and scurried like balls of fluff over the wave platforms searching for their next meal. Forest has spread and thickened protecting the Chatham Island Black Robin which were not to be seen, but possibly heard.

As we rounded the eastern shore we saw the dramatic cliffs of the south. The complexity of patterning, overhangs and hollows, and the rise from the ocean straight upwards ensured we appreciated their grandeur. What could be better than to maximise the opportunity for a complete circumnavigation of South East Island.

Thanks to the gangway crew we crossed from Zodiac to gangway safely. With welcome cuppa in hand, we met in the lecture room for Rod Morris’ presentation on the Chatham Island Black Robin. Its conservation success lies with Don Merton, his vision, quiet determination and willingness to do whatever it took has ensured the current continuance of these birds – who will take the next step to ensure these birds have a third population centre?

Katja shared her expertise in island giantism at recap, Rod his experience at The Sisters, then Chris introduced our plans for tomorrow. A glowing sky with sunset at 1931 hours augurs well.

Day 7: Saturday 27 March, 2021 – The Forty Fours and The Sisters

As the sky lightened in the east the craggy outline of the Forty Fours became apparent, as the ship turned around the Forty Fours our sense of direction was challenged with the Pyramid and then Pitt appearing as further to the east than we were. And when the glow of sunrise occurred its striking brevity gave us a fix on east with a red fire in the clouds which quickly faded.

The increasing light appeared to wake the Northern Royal Albatross who became squadrons in flight, navigating with no air traffic control, wheeling above the island or landing in drifts across the ocean to mingle before preening and cleaning in the ocean.

Our final circumnavigation was in enough light to consider the quest of how to land on the Forty Fours. We knew Mike Bell, staff from the previous voyage, had been on the island for bird counts, our best guest was a ledge which appeared to lead to the top of the island, the leap from rolling surf, across slippery kelp and onto rock did appear significant. Is it only super people who do this, or are they really counting by satellite?

In an increasingly calm sea we departed from the Forty Fours towards the northern islands – The Sisters. A late breakfast and a presentation by Rod Morris in the library sharing his thoughts, experiences and knowledge of Island Magic.

Perhaps we should have had an obligatory exercise class before we shared lunch early. We did not, but it was all in anticipation for our Zodiac cruise at The Sisters.

Lunch early and then into the Zodiacs for our exploration of The Sisters. And what an experience it became as we weaved between rocky arches, rested beneath cliffs, surfed between the islands and watched as our fearless Rod Morris experienced the joys of a bird on the head, rather than in the hand.

The low reef surprised us all with its abundance of New Zealand Fur Seals, literally covered in the calm conditions with countless seals dancing through the surging waves on the rocky shores. And the same waves broke into mysterious depths of blue – aqua, turquoise, azure and every other shade of blue possible, crossed with foaming white and the rusty brown twists of seaweeds swirling to and fro. High numbers of young seals played in the rocky pools adding to the cycle of life.

Such was our delight in the day, the place and the wildlife we cajoled our Expedition Leader Chris to stay just a little longer – and so we did, thanks to Captain Max for his helpful second round on the Spirit of Enderby before coming back to the pick-up area. And all too soon we were coming back into Waitangi to return our guests, Jane, Liz and Bruce and two intrepid passengers to the island before we departed eastward towards Lyttelton.

As we farewelled Chatham Islands with so many memories, our minds turned to the sea journey, so with another excellent dinner we were soon horizontal. The sea conditions being the great unknown for our crossing of the Chatham rise. We also turned our ships time to New Zealand time – the Chathams being 45 minutes ahead of the mainland.

Day 8: Sunday 28 March, 2021 – At Sea

A day at sea as we steamed towards Lyttelton with a bit of a roll in the ocean we had some quiet time for those who needed to enjoy a few hours horizontal, although those that wished had breakfast.

Mid-morning Katja shared the world of circulation and the dynamics of the Southern Ocean – or plumbing the depths below us on the conveyor belt of the world. This was followed with a retail therapy exercise with Holly opening the Sea Shop.

By mid afternoon Katja encouraged us to gather for her presentation on the Geology of Zealandia or as her subtitle went – the stuff these islands are made of. All those cliffs, rocks, soils and lagoons we had seen on the Chathams were explained.

Our Pub Quiz led by our uniquely accomplished quiz makers provided another highlight. Thanks to Mark and Isaac for creating and delivering a quiz requiring a wide range of knowledge, testing the memory, ensuring hilarity and the ability for teams to display their winning prowess (and dance moves).

Day 9: Monday 29 March, 2021 – At Sea

Katja shared her interpretation of the ‘Effects of Climate Change on New Zealand’s Environment’, the indicators of today, the past and what the future might produce.

Late morning we gathered in the bar for a presentation by Rod Morris on island biodiversity with the richness of the tropics and birds of colour, whilst our own species have dimmed their tropical brightness.

Our on board accounts were settled leisurely with great opportunities to be out on deck enjoying the following birdlife, such as it was, even they were having a day off. Boots and life vests returned, books to the library and time to think about gathering belongings.

Mid-afternoon Shirley shared the history of Heritage Expeditions, a personal insight from the company’s beginnings in 1985 to the present day.

Our day at sea just got better and better.

Expedition Leader Chris led the final disembarkation briefing to ensure we were in the know for our onward travel plans. He thanked the Captain and crew for their outstanding and often unseen work, and the on board staff team for all the contributions to making the voyage the success it had been.

Katya had been super busy curating a collection of images which were presented in our final recap allowing us to relive the many memory-making moments we had all experienced. Banks Peninsula was clearly in view and we slowed coming to anchor under the headlands of Pigeon Bay as the conditions had allowed us to make great time, whilst our booking with the Lyttelton Port pilot and our berth in the port was not till the next morning.

The calm seas, warm breeze and with little encouragement we congratulated Captain, Crew and Staff from the front deck and enjoyed entrée and bubbles there before a superb final dinner of the voyage and the season from Lance and Lindsay, our talented chefs.

Day 10: Tuesday 30 March, 2021

It was still dark as Spirit of Enderby sailed into Lyttelton with guests out on deck watching the twinkling lights of the port come into view before breakfast was served.

Farewelling our last guests on our final Southern Ocean voyage of the season Chatham Islands - New Zealand's Easternmost Islands, we wave goodbye as their bus heads into the city bound for new adventures and reflect on the major achievement of getting our ship and crew down from Russia, and operating a season for Kiwis amid a global pandemic.

Spirit of Enderby will spend the next two days in port undergoing some end of season maintenance and preparations for our upcoming Russian Far East season before departing on April 2 and heading north for our Northern Season.

Expedition Team

Chris Todd – Expedition Leader
Holly Adams – Cruise Director
Katja Riedel - Lecturer and Guide
Matt Jones – Lecturer and Guide
Rod Morris - Lecturer
Lindsay Thorpe – Chef
Lance Canning – Chef
Isaac Wilson – Office Staff, Sales & Marketing
Shirley Russ - Office Staff, Expedition staffing
Dr Mark Gilbert - Medical Advisor

From our team to you, our fellow explorers, thank you for sharing the Chatham Islands – New Zealand’s Easternmost Islands with us. We look forward to our next adventure together ...