2190: Unseen Fiordland, Stewart Island and The Snares: Exploring New Zealand's Remote Backyard

Day 1 March 5th 2021

Excited expeditioners travelled from around the country to meet at the Hillton Queenstown Spa & Resort this afternoon where we enjoyed a group dinner this evening. It was an excellent opportunity to meet our fellow travellers, some of our expedition team and learn more about our upcoming adventure.

Day 2 March 6th 2021

A very early start by most members of the team from Queenstown, after a drive around Lake Wakatipu and through Northern Southland a coffee stop at Te Anau was called for. At this point an extra person was loaded on board, and he didn’t stop talking until we reached Milford Sound. The other team members hopefully will remember to recall the stories of hardship of those that built the road and the early conservation gains made for national good within the Eglinton Valley.

A very enjoyable trip around Milford Sound was undertaken by the team members with a later boarding of the good ship, Spirit of Enderby. Meanwhile the talky one and another new person joining the Heritage Expeditions team had to help with loading supplies. Safety talks undertaken and getting to know the ship was the next priority prior to joining in the bar to make new friends.

After a great dinner and a few more talks we set off to bed and started a calm voyage down the Fiordland coast to Thompson Sound.

Day 3 March 7th 2021

An early Zodiac trip was undertaken up the Pandora River, a tidal river, that allowed the team members to see their first encounter with Fiordland forest up close. Chris forgot the key to open Pandora’s Box, so a lot of disappointed people, but the flowering Easter orchids more than made up for this small mistake. Back to the ship for breakfast and hash browns! Plus good old bacon and eggs, top fare.

Another Zodiac trip to Deas Cove and a high vantage point by some of the really fit team members was undertaken while us less energetic team members checked over the DOC hut and the regrowth vegetation on the large earthquake slip from 2006.

A trip down to Blanket Bay to pick up two COVID-19 clear Aucklander’s was the next task.

They had flown into the helipad with a very young pilot! Actually, at 23 years he has flown over 1200hrs of helicopter time. A special helicopter trip was undertaken by some of the team member’s into the famous Campbell’s Kingdom, a site used by many film productions. The rest enjoyed another lunch, prior to boarding the Zodiacs again for a cruise around Bauza Island visiting Gronos Beach. A short walk ashore to hear about the story of pest control on Secretary Island given by guide Lindsay Wilson, who had overseen the work, was informative. A trip out to the Shelter Islands was possible but disappointing no fur seals although one Royal Albatross was spotted.

Back on board ship for a warm up and drinks, plus a review of the days adventures. Another great dinner was enjoyed by all. A good night’s sleep will be enjoyed, prior to an early start to Dusky Sound getting into Breaksea Sound just on daylight.

Day 4 March 8th 2021

After a calm ride down the coast from Doubtful Sound we arrived at the entrance of Breaksea Sound just on daylight. The history of the first rat eradication in NZ on Breaksea Island was explained, then a very calm cruise down Acheron Passage to Dusky Sound accompanied by several lots of dolphins. Guests could see the narrow section of this passage in which stoats could still swim across to Resolution Island. Lindsay explained the pest project on Resolution Island the fifth largest island in NZ.

After entering Dusky Sound we turned to the east to go around Long Island to Cooks Passage, we travelled west for an hour and at the entrance of Cascade Cove we boarded the Zodiacs. Firstly viewing the Cascade Falls in which Cook’s painter, Hodges, painted the Maori Family at the base of the falls (with some poetic license). The next visit was to Astronomers Point and Pickersgill Habour. The story of Cook’s 1773 visit was told here as we rafted together in the Zodiacs.

After lunch the team split into three groups - some did the walk over Anchor Island, another group walked to the lake and back, the third did a Zodiac trip around to Luncheon Cove after a visit to the Waikare shipwreck site. Lots of seals and many young ones were seen. Once the across-the-island-group arrived we talked about the first settlement site. Returning to the ship for another great dinner, we settled in for a quiet evening sheltered in Dusky Sound.

A good number of birds were seen, but not as many as normal due to the overcast weather.

Day 5 March 9th 2021

A wet start to the morning in Dusky Sound but expeditioners soon were soon aboard the Zodiacs to explore Facile Harbour and Richard Henry’s house site. Ken told the Endeavour story from the wreck site, situated in the northwest corner of Facile. The tide and wind made searching and seeing the ballast stones impossible. After this the Facile groups went to see the rock formations on a very high bluff system.

Then off to Pigeon Island, to the site of the first, real conservation undertaken in New Zealand. The remains of the chimney base is all that's left of the 20 x 20-foot house Richard Henry built. The remains of a pen he built to hold Kakapo and Kiwi still remains after 100 years. A walk to his lookout was also undertaken.

Back on board for lunch and in the afternoon a Zodiac excursion into and around Earshell Cove. Some of the party went ashore for a bush walk. The others tried to spot Saddleback on some of the small islands. No luck, it was not the best weather for the birds, or man, for that matter.

After dinner Spirit of Enderby sailed south for the Snares, a very reasonable passage considering the weather reports.

Day 6 March 10th 2021

We arrived at the Snares just after 0800hrs, the Zodiacs were in the water after inspection of a safe boarding location. We made a coastal trip north along the shoreline looking at the vast seabird life that lives on the island – Snares Crested Penguins gathering into rafts, launching themselves ashore, or in reverse heading out to sea, Buller's Albatross on their highrise nests, their fluffy chicks progressing towards adulthood, and the hidden treasures of the Fernbird and Tomtits on the island.

Then our trip north to Stewart Island began with great weather.

For dinner we called into Port Pegasus as it was a little calmer. Port Pegasus was a site of early Maori occupation, the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi for Southern Maori, the first shipbuilding station in New Zealand 1826, New Zealand’s only tin mining and the base for three early fish processing plants. One of its most important claims to fame was being the last refuse of the Kakapo. These were Fiordland birds on their way to the Dunedin Exhibition in 1928, the weather held up the ship transporting them so they were let go to save them from starving. If this had not happened Kakapo in NZ would have been extinct.

A nice quiet trip up the coast after dark, prior to that, Julia gave a talk on her part of Russia.

Day 7 March 11th 2021

A nice fine morning at last, all ashore for an early morning walk on Ulva Island. The long walk team members were lucky to see a Kiwi and most everyone saw a Saddleback. Two local Stewart Island guides took the lead with their local knowledge which enabled us to see many more birds and learn a little more.

After our lunch, the group split into three: those that wanted to tramp from Kaipipi back to Oban, or travel by Zodiac to Oban, or stay on the ship.

A great afternoon of exploration as we all made our way to Halfmoon Bay to take our final Zodiac ride back to the Spirit of Enderby. Our trusty expedition team had complied a wonderful presentation of our voyage which we enjoyed and received a copy of, before our final farewell feast together with celebrations continuing in the bar for many.

Day 8 March 12th 2021

Spirit of Enderby sailed into Bluff under the cover darkness signalling the end of our adventure. Packing our gear, we left our luggage out in the hallways ready for collection, before enjoying a final breakfast together. Saying an emotional farewell to our new ship friends, we climbed aboard the bus bound for our next adventures.

Thanks to everyone who made this voyage the success it has been, the new friends we have made, the places we now know of that were once unseen by us and the privilege of sharing these places together. Safe travels and see you again soon!