2180: Unseen Fiordland, Stewart Island and The Snares 25 January 2021

Day 1 - Monday 25th January 2021

Invercargill, Port of Bluff

Expedition leader Aaron Russ and guide Lindsay Wilson greeted our exclusive group of Southlanders at the Ascot Park Hotel, and it wasn’t long before we were on a bus heading to the Port of Bluff to board the Spirit of Enderby (Professor Khromov).

Welcomed on board by the smell of fresh muffins, we acquainted ourselves with our cabins and the ship, eager to explore our new home for the week. Briefings and the lifeboat drill followed in quick succession so we could make way for a slightly choppy Foveaux Strait crossing. In the shelter of Rakiura (Stewart Island) on the other side, people slowly emerged from their cabins to kick off the first night’s drinks in the bar and hear the plan for our time on Rakiura.

The chefs produced a fabulous dinner, the amazing sunset and calm anchorage concluded a great first night. © Katja Riedel, Heritage Expeditions

Day 2 - Tuesday 26th January 2021

Ulva and Stewart Island

As we pulled up to Ulva Island jetty, we were greeted by local guides Ulva and Matt, as well as a friendly sea lion coming to check us out. Options galore for walks as we chose our groups and headed off for a morning tour of predator-free Ulva Island. Ulva and Matt highlighted an abundance of flora and fauna including, Saddleback, Kaka, Mohua, Kakariki, robins and podocarp trees to name a few. Their wealth of knowledge and storytelling made for an outstanding experience and to top it off the sun was shining, the water was glassy and there was hardly a breath of wind.

The glorious weather continued as we Zodiac cruised to Kaipipi Bay on the northern side of Patterson Inlet where we set off on a bush walk across to Oban. Several peaceful hours were spent meandering along the track and enjoying the cafes, museum and pub in Oban. As the evening came it proved a difficult task to pull everyone away from their last moments sunbathing or drinking a beer at the South Seas Hotel.

Another relaxing dinner at anchor was enjoyed before kicking off the first quiz night of the trip and making way for the Snares.

Day 3 - Wednesday 27th January 2021
At Sea

Following a decent attempt to get to the Snares in some very rough seas, it was decided we would change course and make our way to Dusky Sound. Captain Pruss expertly maneuvered the ship around South West Cape and up the southeastern coast of Stewart Island, taking us into calmer waters. While the Captain navigated us closely along the coast, Aaron shared some interesting information on the history, geology and fauna of Rakiura.

A day at sea also proved a great opportunity to do some on-board shopping and attend a couple of lectures on Fiordland restoration and marine life. As we travelled into the evening, those who had sea legs were up on the bridge taking in the breathtaking scenery as we made our way up the southern coast towards Fiordland.

Day 4 - Thursday 28th January 2021
Dusky Sound, Fiordland

After the previous day's travel, it was a delight to wake up to a calm anchorage north of Pigeon Island in Dusky Sound. The forest-laden hills of Resolution Island surrounded the ship and, typical of Fiordland, we were treated to numerous forms of weather in the morning.

Options galore, we moved between zodiac cruising the coastline in Facile Harbour where the 800-tonne Endeavour wreck (1795) lies, touring the remains of Richard Henry’s abode and bird enclosure, and enjoying a walk across Pigeon Island to a viewing platform on the southern side.

Back on board to enjoy a warm cuppa and hot lunch while the ship relocated closer to Astronomers Point and Cascade Cove for this afternoon’s activities. A short boardwalk was enjoyed in Pickersgill Harbour which was the site where Captain Cook moored for 6 weeks to chart the Transit of Venus at Astronomers Point, and to repair his ship. Interestingly, Cook and his crew were able to brew beer out of Rimu and while in the area described many of the native species they came across. After the short walk, we explored the adjacent Crayfish, Indian and Long Islands by Zodiac before cruising along the coast where several impressive waterfalls (including Cascade Falls) were flowing down the steep coastline.

Day 5 - Friday 29th January 2021
Dusky Sound

Anchor Island, a remaining strong hold for Kakapo and home of numerous other native birds was the first stop this morning. Saddleback frolicked around on the bush edge right on the beach and as we made our way towards Lake Kirirua, Mohua were busy in the trees. The healthy native bush completely engulfed us as we walked the track, until popping out onto the edge of the lake, where some of the keener walkers continued on to Luncheon Cove. Mud and tree roots were taken in our strides and we all returned a little dirty but having had a great experience.

A quick rest for the legs over lunch, then we were back on the Zodiacs cruising Luncheon Cove (where the first European house was built) and the Many Islands. Numerous New Zealand Fur Seals were basking on rocks, while some were cruising playfully around the shallows. This season’s pups were waiting patiently for their mothers, occasionally calling out, and other fur seals were busy playing. We zigzagged our way in and out of the many nooks and crannies along the island coasts before cruising back to the ship.

As we made way to Doubtful Sound, the clouds parted and Bottlenose Dolphins joined in on the bow wake. The scenery through the Acheron Passage was thoroughly enjoyed and was topped off by calm seas and clear skies through to Doubtful.

Day 6 - Saturday 30th January 2021
Doubtful Sound

It was a thrilling start to this morning, with helicopter tours over Doubtful Sound for one group, and for the other, a Zodiac expedition out to Shelter Islands, Grono Bay on Secretary Island, and through the Gut Marine Reserve in the Te Awaatu Channel.

Then we shifted slightly further north, which allowed us to explore the northern side of Thompson Sound in the afternoon. Timing the tides, we navigated up Pandora River taking in the tranquil surroundings, a contrast from the sea breeze blowing into the sound. The picturesque pebble and sand beach at the river mouth provided another relaxing spot before we jumped aboard the Zodiacs to explore further down the Sound. The next stop was a drop-off for those wanting to stretch their legs where Lindsay led a steep climb up a trap line. Everyone else moved across the bay to Neck Cove and explored a bush trail into Deas Cove, the site of a very tidy hut and beautiful bay.

After the serene setting at Deas Cove, we returned to the Zodiacs for one last ride back to the ship. Just to ensure we had experienced all the weather Fiordland offers, our last ride came with a bit more wind and the odd wave spray showering over the sides.

The final presentation this evening provided some good laughs and captured many of the great moments from the last week. A fitting end to the trip included a bubbly toast on the back deck and four-course spread by the wonderful chefs. Our quiz nights also came to an end with the grand finale and cheese platters in the bar.

Day 7 - Sunday 31st January 2021
Milford Sound

Arriving in Milford Sound brought an end to a fantastic expedition. We were treated to the unique scenery as we coasted into Milford and joined by a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins on the bow. One last Zodiac to shore and we bid farewell to the Spirit of Enderby, taking with us loads of photos, memories and stories to tell as we made our way to our post voyage hotel night in Queenstown.