2184: Auckland Islands and the Snares 6 February 2021

Day 1: Saturday 6th February 2021
Invercargill, Port of Bluff

Day one saw us gathering at Invercargill’s Ascot Park Hotel to be met by guides Katja Riedel and Lindsay Wilson. It was soon on to the bus and then the short journey to Bluff where we embarked on to the waiting Spirit of Enderby. Expedition Leader Nathan Russ welcomed guests aboard, then there was time to settle in and explore. Muffins and a brew fortified us for our first briefing in the lecture room. Learning about safety procedures, housekeeping and preparing for the lifeboat drill. With sun and blue skies, it was on to the deck to view our departure from Bluff, shepherded seawards by the pilot boat.

30 passengers, 8 Expedition staff and a ship’s crew of 22 made up our complement as we ventured into Foveaux Strait. Gentle seas and a warm evening saw many of us up on the decks until late to enjoy the trip south. The experienced birders among us had counted 13 species of seabird by nightfall.

At sunset we were abeam the peaks Gog and Magog, behind Port Pegasus, as we headed for the southern tip of Stewart Island/Rakiura, bound for the Snares.© Katja Riedel, Heritage Expeditions

Day 2: Sunday 7th February 2021

We were greeted, as we approached the Snares (Tini Heke), in the pre-dawn light with a magnificent sunrise display and the flight of sooty shearwater heading out to the feeding grounds. The population of sooty shearwater, commonly known as titi or 'muttonbirds' is estimated at up to 2 million birds and are the most numerous seabird species in the southern hemisphere. Their feeding grounds lie as far south towards Antarctica and into the south Pacific and Tasman. Each year, after raising their chicks, they begin an annual, round trip migration of 60,000-kilometres into the north Pacific.

Delaying breakfast, we boarded the Zodiacs to explore the east coast of the main island (North East – 280ha.). The geology (100-million-year-old muscovite granite) of the rugged island made for fascinating cruising with towering cliff and sea caves and arches.

From the Zodiacs we could easily see the abundant wildlife and unique vegetation.

The most obvious vegetation was the large tree daisies (Olearia lyalli and Brachyclottis stewartiae), the coastal Hebe elliptica and the first of the subantarctic 'mega herbs' – Stilbocarpa robusta.

The island’s granite base is covered in peat which is ideal for burrowing birds. Little ground is not occupied by seabird burrows making walking on the island as precarious affair – for both the walker and the seabirds in the burrow – hence no people allowed on shore.

The nests on which the Buller’s albatross (or 'mollymawk' in seafarers’ terms) perch give uninterrupted views out over the ocean. This species is the most numerous of the two (the other being Salvin’s) albatross species breeding on the island.

And the numerous Snares crested penguin rookeries drew our attention. Call it anthropomorphic tendencies, but their antics always draw a smile with their 'human-like' squabbling, bumble-footed and sometimes tripping over themselves they descend the steep rocky shoreline.

The more alert observers also spotted the endemic black tomtit, fernbird and even the Snares Island snipe.

We managed to get around as far as Hoho Bay where the research hut is located. It seemed a safe spot but several years ago it was swept off its foundations by huge seas.

Returning the ship for a well-deserved breakfast, the general feeling was that we had seen some of the best of the wonderful Snares and it was time to head deeper into the Southern Ocean towards the Auckland Islands.

The sea and warm conditions allowed for an easy relaxing time as we headed south.

Greg Lind provided a lecture on the DOC plans for ridding Auckland Islands (Maungahuka) of the major introduced pests - mice, cats and pigs.

Katja introduced us to the geological diversity of the Subantarctic islands and Nathan gave us all a 'taster' of what lies ahead – Enderby Island being our early morning destination.

Day 3: Monday 8th February 2021

After a comfortable night at anchor in Port Ross, Auckland Islands, we awoke to a ‘Scotch mist’ sort of morning. While we ate a leisurely breakfast Captain Pruss relocated the ship to anchor off Sandy Bay, Enderby Island. Informed by a briefing from Nathan on the day’s planned adventures, it was in to the Zodiacs. We rode in with Hookers sea lions porpoising around us and then landed on the rock ledge at the eastern corner of the bay to be met by two welcoming Hoiho/Yellow-eyed penguins. With the weather clearing we quickly split in to the around-the-island-walking group (guided by Nathan, Lindsay, Greg and Robert), and the Sandy Bay/boardwalk exploration groups (led by Katja with assistance from chefs Lindsay and Al).

Nathan led the ‘longwalkers’ through the thick Cassinia and Hebe coastal shrub, seeing tomtits and bellbirds up-close. After breaking out of the shrublands, Nathan headed off with those wanting a good leg stretch, while the remainder of us split into groups that were appropriate to different interests and travelling speeds. With the skies remaining dry, a lunch stop was convened under the rata forest where we were treated to Red-crowned Kakariki, tomtits and a privileged few spotted a snipe scuttle past us as we ate. Re-energised after lunch we continued around the coast, weaving around small groups of sea lions and the odd lone bull, very amicable with the breeding season almost over. Light showers set in as we reached the Derry Castle reef, a site where 15 lost their lives when their ship was wrecked there. The route then took us along the tops of formidable sea cliffs, regularly bumping in to penguins, skuas and pipits. Just before reaching the boardwalk a cliff face ledge revealed two well grown Light-mantled Sooty albatross chicks, and one adult. The final leg of the walk down the boardwalk to Sandy Bay gave stunning views of Southern Royal albatrosses whooshing past at a little above ground level. A quick call in at the Stella Castaway Depot, then it was a short stroll past more sea lions and Hoiho to return to our pickup point.

Other wildlife seen along the coastal walk included congregations of Auckland Island shags, Hoiho, the flightless Auckland Island teal, falcon, giant petrels and pipits.

Katja’s Sandy Bay/Board walk group had a great explore of that area observing a late breeding group of sea lions on the beach with a small pup along with a good representation of the sea and forest birds to be found on the island. Happily, they managed to time their visit to return to the ship before the afternoon rain set in.

A superb meal was prepared for us by Lindsay and Al which was enjoyed while at anchor off Enderby.

Day 4: Tuesday 9th February 2021

We weighed anchor in the very early hours (before dawn) and headed south towards a 'possible' visit to Musgrave Inlet, halfway down the east of the main Auckland Island.

Once we exited Port Ross the full strength of the SSW wind was evident – gusting to 50+ knots, though the ship handled that superbly.

Any thought of Musgrave Inlet was abandoned as the seas and the winds made entry impossible. Most of us were oblivious to all this drama and slept on (or at least dozed…)

Entry to Carnley Harbour required an expertly taken 'turn to starboard' placing the ship side-on to the strong winds – that certainly heeled the ship over.

Carnley Harbour is the caldera or centre of an ancient volcano, now flooded. It is a magnificent expanse of deep water and arms, but must have been a challenging place in the days of sail. Anchorages safe from the gales which funnel down the arms and valleys are almost non-existent and shipwrecks such as the Grafton (1864) provide evidence of this.

As we travelled up the harbour the winds became less of a factor and the anchor was dropped in one of the small bays under the shrouded tops of Adams Island. Vast rafts of sooty shearwater were seen – clear evidence that the open ocean was not a pleasant place for even these hardy birds, or that this is a favoured gathering place before they depart north.

The nearly 10,000ha Adams Island was one of the earliest (1910) protected reserves in the New Zealand Subantarctic islands. It never had to suffer any introduced pests, unlike the adjacent main Auckland Islands. Though it was grazed for a short term it is now best known for the population of Gibson’s Wandering Albatross. A research hut is in Fleming Bay and a small field hut is established in the study area on the south side of the island – saving the researchers a hike from the base hut.

After the usual hearty breakfast, our intrepid Expedition Leader developed a cunning plan 'C', a Zodiac cruise along the semi protected shoreline of Adams Island and a few surprises were added… Nearing Victoria Passage, the colossal cliffs of the south coast of Adams Island came into view, as did the daunting channels out into the open ocean. Our Leader, leading as usual and knowing the seas from significant experience headed his Zodiac out through the entrance.

What could we do but follow? It was a very confused sea out there, but all exited and returned safely and that is what managed adventure is all about. Sometimes taking on our perceived limits and … exceeding them. A quick gaze up at South West Cape and the route – and we left it for another day.

We cruised further up Western Arm to the head with the misty tops still clagged in murk but revealing enough to appear to some like the Highlands of Scotland.

Some excitement created a raft of Zodiacs around a skua sitting on the water attempting to consume (stuff might be more accurate) a diving petrel. It certainly did not look an easy task getting the wings in but the skua flew off to escape the attention before we could see the conclusion.

Returning the ship and the subsequent lunch, concluded a wonderful morning within the confines of this magnificent and truly wild place.

With weather conditions only moderating slightly it was decided to raise the anchor and head up North Arm and see what we could see. We reached as far into the Arm to bring Figure of Eight Island into view (the third largest of the New Zealand sea lion rookeries) and faintly in the distance the Erlangen Clearing. The Erlangen was a German ship which steamed to the island when forewarned about the imminent outbreak of WWII. Having insufficient fuel to get to a neutral country the crew spent two months cutting rata for the steam engines. They did make it to South America but were intercepted by the Royal Navy and the ship was scuttled off Argentina.

The next Zodiac excursion took us to the subsequent part of this story. The New Zealand Government, fearing the islands could be used as bases for enemy (there some evidence suggesting the German commerce raider Orion may have in fact sheltered there) set up Coast Watch bases at Tagua (in Carnleyy Harbour), Ranui (at Port Ross) and also on Campbell Island.

As the main landing for the Tagua Base was unusable because of the wind, we snuck in the back door and walked up to the main base hut hidden in the forest. It is now totally derelict (having been built for a base intended for the Antarctic and the wet, forest environment has seen its demise). A 10-minute walk up the hill to the Lookout Hut (fully maintained as an historic site) gave us a real sense of what life was like during the war years in such an isolated and inhospitable place.

After the usual excellent dinner (especially the bread, butter, chocolate and prunes soaked in red wine dessert) Nathan laid out tomorrow’s plan. Departure for Port Ross immediately after dinner and 'batten the hatches' in our cabins for a bumpy trip back up the coast.

Such concludes a marvellous day in a truly awesome place.

Day 5: Wednesday 10th February 2021

A gentle rolling lulled us to sleep and we woke at anchor in Port Ross. The wet, windy view from the porthole was enough to ensure there was no rush to the leisurely 8am breakfast. Strong gusts and heavy rain continued as the ship made an exploratory probe towards Ranui inlet. With this area also being subjected to strong winds it was back to a comfortable anchor off Erebus Cove. The weather was ideal for some indoor time so Katja gave an excellent presentation on the Southern Ocean weather systems, a very appropriate topic. This was followed by an opportunity to be hosted on a tour of the intricacies of the engine room by the Chief Engineer and some retail therapy with the Sea Shop, an opportunity to purchase souvenirs, gifts and outdoor clothing.

There was time before lunch for the five Young Explorers aboard to share their backgrounds, their passions, and their future plans.

Lunch was a fortifying spread of fish tacos complete with guacamole and trimmings, then the good news that the weather had eased sufficiently for us to visit the Hardwicke Settlement site. It was close to 2pm before the Zodiacs were launched, squally showers and a less than balmy 6 degrees had some wondering whether hunkering down with a good book may have been a better choice. Notwithstanding Nathan’s accurate description of the weather, and the likelihood of some invigorating sea spray, there was a strong contingent of passengers that were keen to brave the elements. Energy levels rose with a good dose of fresh air as we bounced across the waves into Erebus cove. Greg has been visiting this area since the 1980s and gave us a great summary of the history of the settlement, possibly New Zealand’s shortest-lived township, built in 1849 and abandoned in 1851. Greg then led us to the key sites such as the cemetery, the Victoria Tree and the old boat haul out. The rain continued during our wander, but it was pleasantly sheltered under the rata forest that has reclaimed the settlement. We were a soggy team as we climbed back into the Zodiacs and returned to the warmth and comfort of the Spirit of Enderby.

Fully recovered with bar refreshments and tummies full of fine food, it was time to weigh anchor and head out past Enderby Island to begin the northwards journey, a leg of 23 hours estimated back to the lee of Rakiura. A hat whizzing past the bar window indicated the wind was a little stronger and there were a number of observers on the bridge watching our progress up and over some good-sized waves as we exited Port Ross and headed for the open ocean. With the wind expected to be mostly following us we could look forward to quick trip homewards.

Day 6: Thursday 11th February 2021

The wind definitely followed us throughout the night and it was an uncomfortable night for many with the pitching and rolling motion.

A few bleary faces greeted dawn and breakfast, but all were upbeat. Nathan made a wise decision, and a quiet morning was enjoyed by all. Plenty of seabirds around the ship and it was awesome to see the ocean in storm mode. The journey north to Rakiura/Stewart Island and some shelter from the following sea allowed all to catch up with photo editing and diary entries as well as the tasks of preparing for arrival at Bluff early tomorrow. These quieter, less hectic periods were valuable for reflections on the adventures done, the sights seen and to contemplate the memories.

After lunch Greg provided a presentation on the Campbell Island rat eradication, declared successful in 2003.

At that time this was the largest island successfully cleared of rats in the world and provided lots of learning that was then applied to other programmes elsewhere around the globe.

Campbell Island had a long history of exploitation (sealing, whaling, farming) and rats were the last pest left after cattle and sheep were destroyed in the 1970s – 90s. Cats died out probably because the vegetation grew back, and cats really don’t like the wet, cold conditions with no open spaces.

The planning for the eradication began in the late 1990s with the trialling of techniques and toxins, and establishing just how big the rat population was – it was established as the highest ever recorded on islands.

Some vulnerable (to the toxin and by kill) species especially Campbell Island teal were taken from the island to breed up for return post eradication.The operation had to take place when the albatross (risk for helicopters) numbers were at their lowest and the rats were at their hungriest - winter.

The operation used the new GPS technology to ensure no gaps were left, the massive cliffs were targeted with heavier bait drops and despite the usual dismal subantarctic weather the entire island was completed in six weeks over the winter of 2001. In 2003 after a team did a check over the island and found not a single rat remained, the operation was officially declared a success.

Snipe were reintroduced and have prospered in the absence of rats and Campbell Island teal self-introduced from their final refuge on Jacquemart Island.

Since then, Campbell has become truly a sanctuary worthy of its status as a National Nature Reserve.

Greg briefly spoke about the Maungahuka/Auckland Island Pest Eradication project and the technological advances made since the Campbell Island eradication.

The afternoon was concluded with a Disembarkation Briefing and a recap on the trip.

The ship finally reached a quiet anchorage in Chew Tobacco Bay on the east coast of Rakiura/Stewart Island.

All gathered in the bar for a celebration of the trip’s adventures and friendships formed followed by a sumptuous dinner.

Last night's rock’n rolling in the Southern Ocean was catching up and with some packing still to be completed the ship became very quiet by late evening.

Day 7: Friday 12th February 2021

Following a quiet night at anchor, an early morning departure saw us arrive in Bluff around 6am. After a final breakfast together, it was time to pack up, make last farewells and board the bus back to the mainland world. A fantastic trip with an adventurous group of people.