2178: Galapagos of the Southern Ocean

Day 1 - Wednesday 13th January, 2021
Place: Invercargill

After checking in to the Ascot Park Hotel in Invercargill, where we would spend the first night of the voyage getting to know each other, excited expeditioners from around the country met up for a welcome dinner where we met our expedition team and our Expedition Leader Katja Riedel gave a brief introductory and welcoming speech outlaying the adventure awaiting us.

Day 2 - Thursday 14th January, 2021
Place: Invercargill/Bluff
Tumu Toka Curio Bay

After breakfast and loading of luggage for the ship, twenty six of the passengers, along with Andy and Niall Mugan, jumped on the bus for the 75-minute drive to Curio Bay. On arrival we headed up to the lookout point and were lucky enough to spot Hector’s Dolphin just off the surf at Porpoise Bay. After a coffee fix at the café, the group spent the next few hours exploring the Curio Bay area, including a visit to the Curioscape Interactive Centre. The Centre explained the history of the area, and in particular the geological processes involved in the formation of the petrified forest. A five-minute walk down to the rocky shore, with a perfectly timed low tide, allowed us to explore the petrified forest. Here we saw the silica-infused remains of the coniferous forest that existed millions of years ago, in the form of large tree trunks imbedded on the rocky wave platform. Some had time to walk the ‘Live Forest’ loop track, a small patch of native forest just across the road from the Centre. At 12.30 we departed for Invercargill for lunch before the bus trip to Bluff and the start of our Expedition.

The bus pulled up alongside The Spirit of Enderby at 1520hrs and we were welcomed on board by the expedition staff. After being shown to our cabins, it was off to the bar for freshly baked muffins and a cool drink, just what we needed on such a warm summers afternoon! The rest of the afternoon was packed with briefings and a rehearsal of the lifeboat drill – the latter was an experience not to be missed, but hopefully not repeated!

After all the formalities had been completed, the ship set a course for Bounty Island and we were finally on our way! Everyone was excited, especially because the seas were relatively calm and were predicted to stay that way on the first leg of our expedition.

The Pilot escorted us to the entrance of Bluff Harbour then we waved our farewells.

After watching Bluff disappear, and time in the bar chatting with friends and roommates, our first evening meal was ready. The bar was set high from the start with the option of a salmon steak, lamb or a sumptuous vegetarian dish – a hard choice! (Ed - try asking for a half and half next time).

Many of us opted for an early night, gently rocked to sleep by the motion of the ship in light winds, while a smaller group kept a lookout for albatross and birds on the wing, a great start to the expedition!

Day 3 - Friday 15th January, 2021
Position at 0800: 47 15.246, 171 58.195 @ 0800
Place: At sea

Breakfast was served at 0800hrs and after scanning the horizon for sea birds, the first activity of the day was a lecture on birds of the Southern Ocean by Andy Given. This provided us with a good overview of the species likely to be spotted, and how the different groups of birds are classified.

Next up was Katja Riedel our expedition leader. She gave us an overview of zodiac operations, along with the environmental care code that we follow.

By the time Lunch was served at 1230hrs fog had appeared, creating a very peaceful atmosphere.
Afternoon saw the Sea Shop set up and many of us took the opportunity to purchase gifts, books and souvenirs.

Probably the most important activity of the day was checking our gear so that we didn’t inadvertently take any hitchhikers to our amazing Sub-Antarctic Islands. This involved investigating every nook and cranny for seeds, insects and dirt - it’s amazing how efficient seeds are at working their way into the trickiest of places, but eventually the task was completed and we were able to pop outside for some fresh air and enjoy the afternoon sun.

The excitement grew with the prospect of reaching the Bounty’s with an ETA of 1000hrs. The plan is to drop all five zodiacs in the water and go for our first cruise – fingers crossed!!

Day 4 - Saturday 16th January, 2021
Position: 47 47.992 S, 178 47.485E @ 0800
Place: Bounty Islands

We awoke to glassy seas, light swell, and sea fog…

Breakfast was served at 0730hrs. Katja announced that she expected us to arrive at the Bounty Island group around mid-morning, and that we would launch zodiacs as soon as the ship was in a good position. With that in mind we packed our camera gear and prepared for the first zodiac cruise of the expedition!

What an amazing sight, seeing the cliffs of Bounty loom out of the mist! The guides along with a number of sailors launched all five zodiacs and before long we were cruising along the edge of the main group. The first thing we noticed was the noise and then the smell of wildlife. Bounty is home to a huge number of Salvin’s albatross, erect crested penguins, New Zealand fur seals and a smaller number of the endemic Bounty shag. Prions and cape petrels flew overhead while others rafted up in large groups. Penguins also hung out in large groups, sometimes swimming or porpoising out of the water. Albatross chicks were silhouetted on the tops of the rock stacks – large and downy. There was a constant stream of penguins and seals clambering up and down the rocky slopes. Surprisingly, all these different species seamed to tolerate each other, and apart from the odd squabble, the scene appeared to be quite peaceful. The whole scene was quite overwhelming with wildlife in every direction.

Getting back onto the ship proved a little difficult with a moderate swell, but with patience and a helping hand from the Russian sailors we all made it back onto the ship in one piece! We had a lovely lunch while the ship remained on anchor. Katja and the Captain decided that we should stay here until 1500hrs just in case the mist cleared, but it never really did.

As we steamed away, Phil Tisch gave a lecture followed by a short movie on the 'Million Dollar Mouse' – a project that aimed to rid Antipodes of mice. This was followed by a lecture on Geology by Katja which we all found really interesting.

Gus Anning led the recap that evening with a discussion on the history of these islands – fascinating stuff. As has become customary, all those with an interest in birds of the region met with Niall to add to the bird list for the trip so far, and its growing day by day.

What a day, and it ended with a beautiful sunset over a gentle swell, what more could we ask for?!

Day 5 - Sunday 17th January, 2021
Position: 49 39,385S, 178 47.026E
Place: Antipodes Islands

With the wind expected to pick up during the day, we were up at 0530 and off in the Zodiacs’ before breakfast. The cruise started at Ringdove Bay and we headed south along the coastline. Like many of the Sub-Antarctic Islands, Antipodes is the remains of an old volcano. We looked with awe at the huge, eroded bluffs, formed by successive volcanic events and weathered away by ferocious seas. There were lots of intrusive dikes and sills. Steep vegetated slopes fingered their way down between the bluffs, none of which made it to sea level – a castaway’s nightmare…

At several points along this coast, the rocks had been eaten away by the sea, forming caves and most of these were accessible by Zodiac. We watched New Zealand fur seal pups lounging on rock outcrops and stacks and some of us were lucky enough to see the Sub-Antarctic fur seals.

Pipits and kakariki were seen although the latter proved to be very elusive. Numerous sea birds cruised the coastline including the Antipodean wondering albatross, light mantled sooty albatross, cape petrels and white chinned petrels to name a few. Large beds of kelp covered the surface of the water in some of the more sheltered bays.

Antipodes and Bounty couldn’t be more different, one stark and washed smooth by glaciers and pounding seas, the other green and covered in tussock. This makes the latter ideal habitat for the wandering albatross which build their nests out of tussock and mud.

Once back on the ship Katja announced we would ship cruise along the edge of the main island, including a look around Bollons Island before heading south west to our next destination, Campbell Island. We got amazing views of the islands and the researchers hut and the Captain sounded the horn three times to let Kath Walker and Graeme Elliot know we were passing by. Shortly after, Graeme called on the radio to say hello!

As we left the Antipodes Islands lunch was served.

Three of the Young Explorers gave talks on what they are currently doing and what motivated them to come on this trip.

First up was Richa Garg. She loves the ocean especially all the animals that inhabit it and this drove her to join the expedition. Previously she undertook research on the critically endangered Maui dolphin, a photo-identification based analysis of the population. She then did her Master’s on snapper examining the effects of climatic variation on their recruitment. She used commercial fishing data to verify movement patterns. Richa is really looking forward to seeing our Sub-Antarctic Islands and believes this experience will help her as a marine scientist.

Christopher Meyer is a freshwater ecologist and is working towards his PhD. He wanted to experience something completely new and the Sub-Antarctic’s fitted that description! Chris has worked on a range of freshwater projects including endangered fish species work and whitebait studies. He is really looking forward to seeing what freshwater species inhabit the streams and lakes on the Sub-Antarctic’s!

Sarah Fisher talked about her career in nursing. She works at Wellington Hospital in Ward 7 North which specializes in general surgical, vascular, ear nose and throat, and eye! In her spare time, she enjoys trail running, tramping and mountain biking. She was inspired to apply for the Young Explorers programme because she really likes exploring new places and has a desire to share her discoveries and love of the outdoors with all those she meets back in New Zealand. She is also hoping to work in island conservation in the future.

That afternoon Andy gave a talk on migration and the issues facing many seabird species.

At the Recap Gus talked about two of the three shipwrecks that had taken place on the island and this was followed by John giving an account of his experience helping Kath Walker and Graeme Elliot band Antipodean albatross

Day 6 - Monday 18th January, 2021
Place: At sea

The plan for today was to learn as much as we could about our next destination: Campbell Island. Katja kicked things off with an introduction to the history, flora and fauna and an outline of options for our first day on land! This was followed by a lecture on the Royal albatross de-banding programme given by Phil. We heard what it was like to live and work on the island and why the majority of bands were removed from the royals.

After lunch we heard from three of the Young Explorers who explained why they had applied to come on this trip and where their lives have taken them so far.

John Timings (Jono) spoke about the family tramps, mountain biking and trail running that got him interested in the outdoors from a young age, and how this had influenced the work that he has chosen to be involved in. Over the last six years he has worked on many different conservation projects including the Department of Conservation’s National Biodiversity Monitoring Programme and rock wren monitoring projects. He now works for Zero Invasive Predators, a small company funded by DOC and the NEXT Foundation, to develop new techniques to help achieve the Governments goal of being Predator Free by 2050 (includes mustelids, rats and possums). For him, being able to experience the unique biodiversity of the Sub-Antarctic region has been the huge drawcard for this trip!

Isobel Backhouse is currently completing a BSC in ecology and environmental studies at Victoria University. She has been immersed in nature from a very early age and the experiences she has had have helped shape who she is. For a while now she has had a love for the Sub-Antarctic islands and has been looking for a way to get there, and that’s when she found out about the True Young Explorers. Isobel plans to share her experiences with friends, family and others, and she also hopes to get involved in island conservation in the future.

Cayla Fickling grew up in Auckland and has had spent lots time in, on and around the sea. She had put together a short video showing scenes of her swimming with dolphins, jumping into rivers and skiing. Cayla has just finished her first year at Auckland University where she is studying marine science and geography. Last year she took a paper on Antarctica and the Sub Antarctic’s and this inspired her to explore these places.

That evening many of us spent time out on deck watching the aerial display that were royals, Campbell Island albatross and sooty shearwaters accompanied by other sea birds making the most of the wind and a free ride behind the Spirit of Enderby – a great end to the day!

Day 7 - Tuesday 19th January, 2021
Position: 52 33.123’ S 169 09.764’ E
Place: Campbell Island

The ship anchored in Perseverance Harbour around 0400hrs, giving us a few hours of sleep in the shelter. We awoke to a nice day – overcast with a moderate breeze and no rain! A number of activities were planned:

•   Walk over to North West Bay via Tucker Cove returning via the high route and finishing at Camp Cove,
•   Walk up the board walk past Beaman Hill to Col Lyall
•   Afternoon Zodiac cruise to view historic sites and wildlife along the shoreline (this was cancelled due to poor conditions in the afternoon).

Walk to North West Bay
Those who chose the long walk to NW Bay lined up at the gangway for an 0700hrs drop off at Beaman Base. Our guides for the day were Phil and Niall, our Doctor Gary joined us too, just in case something unforeseen took place!

After a briefing on the planned route, likely wildlife encounters and expected weather, we were off past ‘The Bomb Shed’ and around to Tucker Cove. Along the way we saw pipits, sea lions and some megaherbs. Then it was up through a belt of Dracophyllum shrubland and onto a turf-like area with patchy snow tussocks (Chionocloa antarctica). Gentians were in flower along with some tiny orchids – very cute.

We traversed a number of small, incised streams – here ferns were plentiful and other plants such as weeping matipo (myrsine divaricate) and coprosma stretched their necks towards the tops of the wind-shorn dracophyllum canopy.

As we climbed higher the megaherbs became more spectacular and it really did feel like we were walking through someone’s garden!

The wind whistled over the ridge, but the views were breathtaking and eventually walking became easier. We took our time enjoying views of North West Bay, Dent Island and of course beautiful megaherbs right at our feet. We passed a juvenile skua and several young giant petrels, before coming face to face with a lively sealion! He had no intention of letting us pass- without a little game of chase! Phil kept him entertained while the rest of us skirted around him and made our way down to the tall tussocks at the top of the route to Capstan Cove. This section of the route was one of the more exciting ones with tussocks over our heads and deep channels made by many years of sealion traffic! Thankfully, we got to the bottom without incident.

An attempt was made at having lunch on a rock platform in Capstan Cove but the resident sealion wasn’t going to tolerate that, so after giving a young elephant seal and another large male sealion a wide birth, we made our way up the bank at the far end of the beach where we entered the Dracophyllum forest.

After about 20 minutes of wading through the dense vegetation we arrived at the North West Bay hut. Here we signed the hut book and looked at the impressive views while munching on our packed lunch.

From the hut we backtracked until we came across the old fence line that runs up to the tops. This section of track was quite overgrown, but it didn’t present too much of an issue.

Up until now the rain had held off, but it was soon falling – horizontally that is, due to the wind! The track contoured around the hill, then dropped into Camp Cove where we were to be picked up by Gus. This last section was a bit of a march, but we got great views of nesting royal albatross as we walked…

The last landmark before entering the forest again was a series of rock stacks – one with a small cave in it. We huddled together here, eating snacks while Phil arranged for a pickup at Camp Cove, near the loneliest tree in the world!

Walk to Col Lyall
While the walk to NW Bay was taking place a second group walked up the board walk to Coll Lyall. The conditions were pleasant with a moderate wind and even though it was early in the day we saw a good few royal albatrosses on the wing. Snipe and teal where seen and a friendly skua that flew low over our heads!

We got great views back towards the ship and Perseverance Harbour, North East Harbour and out west towards Dent Island and North West Bay. The megaherbs were in full flower and what a pretty sight seeing the hill slopes covered in purple flowers (Pleurophyllum speciosum)!

By the time we got back to the ship everyone was buzzing! With a few hours to spare before the long walkers returned, and conditions too wet and windy for a zodiac cruise, we got a special tour of the engine room!

That evening Gus gave a talk on ‘The Lady of the Heather’ – a young lass who was left on the island to live out her life on her own – very sad indeed and shrouded in mystery as the exact details have been lost.

What an awesome day – we all went to bed feeling content.

Day 8 - Wednesday 20th January, 2021
Position: 52 33.123’ S 169 09.764’ E
Place: Campbell Island

Our time on Campbell Island came to an end today, but we still had time for one more activity!

A small party led by Phil set off at 0615hrs for Garden Cove. From here the plan was to ascend Mt Honey, the highest point on the island. The day started off calm and grey although there was some blue sky to the north.

After stashing our boots and lifejackets under a bush we entered the thick Dracophyllum forest and made our way up onto a plateau. This was harder than it sounds due to the numerous streams that crossed the track. We slipped and slid our way down the steep peat banks, hoping to keep our feet dry, there was little chance! After about an hour, we popped out of the scrub and started to climb steeply towards the summit of Mt Honey. On the way we got great views of Six-Foot Lake along with many albatrosses on nests. We also traversed some amazing megaherb gardens with Pleurophyllum speciosum in full flower.

We finished by climbing to a highpoint overlooking Perseverance Harbour. The mist had come down and was sitting on the tops so after another look at the view we retraced our footsteps, taking time to take in the sights and enjoy this wild place.

Back on the ship for a late lunch and hot showers!

While this activity was taking place, a second group took part in a zodiac cruise. We had beautiful cruising conditions, calm with little wind and the odd bit of sunshine. We cruised right to the end of Perseverance Harbour then came back along the other side. It was good to see the regenerating tussock interspersed with hebe. There was lots of bull kelp which meant we were constantly moving in and out from the shore. We were all able to identify the sealions and honey coloured females. We also saw a large group of shags just above the waterline who appeared to be resting and drying their wings. In addition to this we saw giant petrels, arctic terns, an albatross chick in its nest and southern royals above.

And as if that wasn’t enough, one more activity was planned before leaving – a Sub-Antarctic plunge! About a dozen of us braved the cold waters and jumped off the gangway. Dr Gary took the cake with a somersault from the top of the gangway and he was soon followed by Cayla and Izzy!

The rest of the afternoon was spent cruising up the side of Campbell. We passed Bull Rock, a Campbell Island albatross colony which was really impressive. Everyone enjoyed viewing the beautiful landforms along with sightings of albatross and other seabirds on the wing.

Gradually the swell picked up and so it was a quiet evening and into bed.

Day 9 - Thursday 21st January, 2021
Place: Auckland Island

It was a pretty rough night travelling to Carnley Harbour at the southern end of the Auckland Island group. Thankfully, the anchor was dropped at 0430hrs and we got a few hours of uninterrupted sleep!

The first activity for the day was a walk to the Tagua Coast Watchers Station. There was very little wind or rain, and everyone enjoyed the opportunity to walk amongst the twisted rata trees.

The Coast Watchers Station itself was located halfway up a small hill on a little peninsula jutting into the harbour. We could see why this location was chosen as it was a very sheltered site that was completely hidden in the forest. From here it was a relatively short walk to the Coast Watchers Lookout Hut. From here it was possible to see the entrance to the harbour without being spotted due to the think vegetation. John Ball gave us a rundown on the hut restoration work he had been involved in which was really interesting.

Those that didn’t visit the Coast Watchers Station went on a zodiac cruise and had a thoroughly good time viewing the wildlife and vegetation in calm conditions.

After that we steamed up Carnley Harbour to Victoria Passage where we investigated Western Harbour. Along the way we saw several finger posts – signs that directed shipwrecked sailors to a castaway depot. Large rafts of sooty shearwaters put on a display as we slowly cruised past.

The Captain then positioned the ship in North Arm so that we could shuttle everyone to the site of the Grafton wreck. On shore Gus brought the place to life with stories of how the five shipwrecked sailors survived – an incredible tail with a happy ending!

Once back on the ship we attended a briefing on the plan for tomorrow – a walk on Enderby Island! This was followed by a presentation on Gibson’s Albatross by Phil. He and Chrissy had spent 2.5 months there as part of a long-term study on the population.

Late that afternoon we took advantage of the light winds and occasional glimpses of the sun to celebrate the discovery of this island, a successful trip so far, and the great job the Captain was doing.

After another great evening meal, we set a course for Port Ross, our staging post for the next few days activities.

Day 10 - Friday 22nd January, 2021
Place: Port Ross, Auckland Island

We were presented with two options for today; a short walk from Sandy Bay across the island to the cliffs on the far side, or a longer walk around the island.

But before the walkers started, a number of volunteers were given the task of counting sea lion pups. The team were dropped at the far end of the beach and made their way slowly back towards the huts, taking pictures of the large harems and counting pups as they went. It was a great opportunity to observe the sealions but rather tricky to do! After about 30 minutes the team had completed the job and were ready to join up with the rest of the walkers.

The Short walk
After landing on the beach, Gus led us up through the sandhills to the start of the boardwalk. On the way we spotted quite a few yellow eyed penguins making their way to the sea – such shy birds. We also got to watch the sea lions as the males rounded up the females and chased other males away. Lots of pups were playing together or hiding in the bushes.

The boardwalk wound its way through the forest to the western side of the island. The odd rata was in flower with its brilliant red flowers contrasting with the lush green leaves. As we approached the other side of the island the vegetation got smaller and smaller until all that remained was tussock, megaherbs (Bulbinella rossii, Anisotome latifolia) and turf species. Once on the coast, we watched light mantled sooty albatross sailing through the sky. We also saw royals and shags cruising about.

After enjoying the view, we returned the same way, taking time to get photographs of the interesting vegetation. We also had time to observe the sealions doing their thing which was a real treat.

The Long walk
We set off with Phil leading the way. After crossing the sand-dunes we made our way into the thick scrub. While we were following a track, it was very overgrown and slow going. Eventually we made our way through and to our relief didn’t come across any sea lions on the track!

At Teal Lake, Shannon spotted a family of teal who sat still and everyone got the opportunity to view them. We also saw kakariki, Auckland Island shags, snipe, bellbirds, tui, tomtits, pipits, yellow eyed penguins and giant petrels.

At one point we took a side trip into the rata forest. This was a great opportunity to take photographs of the twisted growth forms and to listen to the bird life – noticeably better than on mainland Auckland Island.

From here we walked around the coastline where we encountered a number of sealions and fur seals. Fortunately, they were all very shy and didn’t attempt to chase us!

After a quick bite to eat at midday, we entered a section of big tussocks and hebe which was slow going but enjoyable.

When we got to the site of the Derry Castle wreck, Katja recited a poem written by one of the castaways – very sad…

From here we passed a number of yellow eyed penguins on the top of the cliffs! Royal albatross flew over us along with shags and giant petrels.

And then we came across the boardwalk. This led us back to Sandy Bay through the rata forest. Here we watched the sealion antics before jumping into a Zodiac. But instead of heading straight back to the ship we went and had a look at the volcanic cliffs beyond Sandy Bay. Here we saw shags nesting, beautiful beds of kelp and impressive columnar basalt that looked like it had been carved rather than shaped through natural processes!

That evening Gus gave us a run-down on the history of Hardwicke and Katja introduced the plan for tomorrow – a trip to Hardwicke before breakfast!

This was followed by a talk on Kamchatka by Julia which looks like a fascinating place to say the least, and after tea Hanna gave a talk on her artwork – a fabulous way to finish an outstanding day!

Day 11 - Saturday 23rd January, 2021
Position: 50 32.459’S 166 13.488’ E
Place: Port Ross, Auckland Island

An early start today with a zodiac trip to Hardwicke before breakfast! There was a steady breeze blowing and clouds scudding across the sky but we did see some sunshine and the rain didn’t come to anything. Once on land we split into two groups – one walked along the old road to the Victoria Tree while the other group climbed up the boardwalk to the graveyard.

This settlement only lasted three years as it was extremely hard to grow anything and no whales were caught. It must have been heartbreaking for those that had invested all their savings to start a new life…

The Victoria Tree was carved by the crew of HMCS Victoria in 1865 when they visited the islands looking for castaways. At the time, the stump stood in an open area, so it was amazing to see it standing within a mature rata forest.

Well if that wasn’t enough, one more landing was planned. So, after a hearty breakfast the ship weighed anchor and relocated off Ranui Cove. This was the site of another Coast Watchers Station but with a difference. Two huts originally destined for the ice were joined together to form the Head Quarters for all coast watching on Auckland Islands. The buildings were restored by a team led by John Ball. If it weren’t for this work, these historic assets would now be in very poor condition. It was great looking around to get a feel for what it must have been like living here.

Then we walked to the lookout hut – a small building with a fantastic view and a camouflage colour scheme! We popped out on top of a hill with fantastic panoramic views! And we were lucky with the weather with blue sky and puffy clouds at the top and a small hail shower while making our way back to the Zodiacs.

Lunch was served at 1230hrs and then it was time to make sure our cabins were secure – the sea is expected to pick up and get quite rough on our way to Snares – our next island group to visit.

All lectures were cancelled for the afternoon due to the sea conditions, but a small group whiled away the hours singing songs to Dr Gary’s ukulele – a lovely sound to listen too!

Not so many people at dinner tonight, many of us opting to stay in bed.

Day 12 - Sunday 24th January, 2021
Position: 48 02.074’ S, 166 37, 411E
Place: Snares Islands

Last night was pretty rough and we found ourselves sliding up and down our bunks with each swell. However once in the lee of Snares it was noticeably calmer. Katja woke us gently on the intercom, recommending that we step outside. We watched the sunrise light up the rocky slopes and clouds of mutton-birds (Sooty Shearwater - puffinus griseus) leaving the Island.

Breakfast was ready at 0730hrs. Then the Captain took us on a ship cruise along the northern coast. This was spectacular, mutton birds flying everywhere, Snares crested penguins on the rocks and swimming around the ship. We saw lots of Buller’s albatross, Salvin’s, cape petrels, diving petrels and others, along with New Zealand fur seals. We finished the cruise at ‘The Penguin Slope’ a steep and smooth rock slope that penguins use to access their breeding grounds on top of the island. There was a constant stream of penguins moving up and down and it was amazing to see them doing this on their short legs!

Then the Captain set a course for Stewart Island and we steamed away from the Sub-Antarctic islands. Most of the day was spent reading, catching up on sleep and for those that travel well, spotting birds.

Rakiura/Stewart Island came into view just before 1400hrs – much sooner than expected due to a good strong wind and a following sea!

Katja called everyone to the lecture room for a celebration of our journey. She thanked everyone for their part in making our time so much fun. Then we viewed a slide show put together by Andy on the trip – quite moving and amazing to look back at all those fantastic places.

We found a sheltered place to stay for the night in the lee of Rakiura /Stewart Island. The chefs prepared an amazing evening meal for us and we celebrated our last evening meal together. After dinner Dr Gary led a group of singers who had made up several songs about our trip – a very special experience.

And then it was off to bed for our last sleep on the ship…

Day 13 - Monday 25th January, 2021
Position: 46 35.507’ S 168 20.104’ E
Place: Bluff

The ship weighed anchor around 0230hrs this morning and made her way towards Bluff. The Pilot boarded the vessel at 0600hrs and we were in port for breakfast at 0700hrs. First we packed our gear and put it in the hallways, then it was down for a hearty meal before disembarking at 0800. We said our farewells to staff, crew and new friends and with a tinge of sadness we climbed onto the bus.

It’s amazing how fast time has gone while we have been away, but all those places we visited are still out there, albatross swooping, petrels diving. Travel safe every one and hopefully we will meet again.

Ka kite koutou e hoa ma

#2178 Group Photo