2067: Unseen Fiordland and Stewart Island

Day 1: Wednesday 30 December, 2020
Bluff

Day One saw us gathering at Invercargill's Ascot Park Hotel to be met by guides Courtney Rayes, Lindsay Wilson, Mo Turnbull and Medical Officer Dr Konrad Richter. After a pre-departure medical check, luggage and guests were transported to Bluff and embarked onto the waiting Spirit of Enderby.

Expedition Leader Chris Todd welcomed guests aboard over muffins and a brew, then it was time for our first briefing in the lecture room, learning about safety procedures and housekeeping. This was soon followed by an abandon-ship lifeboat drill.

Fifty guests, 8 expedition staff and a crew of 22 made up our complement as we headed out of Bluff a little after 1730, bound for Stewart Island/Rakiura. A warm, sunny evening with gentle seas in Foveaux Strait saw many of us up on the decks to enjoy the crossing.

Mooring for the night in Paterson Inlet we were poised for the next day's exploration of Ulva Island and able to enjoy a lovely meal prepared for us by chefs Linzy Thorpe and Lance Canning.

Day 2: Thursday 31 December 2020
New Year's Eve at Stewart Island/Rakiura

Ashore at 0800, we were met by Ulva and Emily who helped guide us about the island. In the warm, calm morning the birdsong was impressive and several Kaka screeched a welcome on arrival. Seeing and hearing Tieke, Weka, Robins, Mohua, Bellbirds, Rifleman, Tui, Kereru, Kakariki, Ruru, Brown Creepers and others provided a glimpse of what being predator-free means.

Then it was back to the ship for lunch and then some of the team opted for a gentle walk to Oban along the Kaipipi Track while the Spirit of Enderby relocated off Oban. Most of those who stayed aboard headed ashore to also explore the wonders of Oban including the excellent new museum. Gathering in the beach in front of the pub it was into the Zodiacs and back to the ship for a beautiful meal.

After dinner, some of the more revelry-minded among us returned to Oban to join the locals at the South Seas Hotel for refreshments, a live band and bonfire on the beach. Gumboots and raincoats were the appropriate party gear in the occasional showers. Tempting as it was to settle into the convivial company, the last of the party goers were rounded up to return to the ship for the magic hour as we gathered on the front deck to toast in the New Year, signalled by a local fireworks display of expired flares. A great ending to a great day.

Day 3: Friday 1 January 2021
Dusky Sound/Tamatea

Preservation and Chalky Inlets slid by as we had a leisurely New Year's Day breakfast. Seas were a gentle swell as we headed north for Dusky Sound/Tamatea. Lindsay gave a lecture on Fiordland Conservation en route, providing some scene setting and history of the nationally and internationally significant conservation work that has occurred in Dusky Sound/Tamatea.

Arriving at Dusky Sound, the Spirit of Enderby anchored off Luncheon Cove, Anchor Island, in time for lunch in sunshine and calm seas. Roughly half of the team trekked across Anchor Island from Luncheon Cove to 'Kuta Beach' on the northern side of the island. With Lindsay, Konrad and Mo leading us past the hissing juvenile New Zealand Fur Seal on to the muddy track there was plenty of time for discussion about the significant history and conservation importance of Anchor Island.

Scarlet mistletoe flowers (Peraxilla tetrapetala) and rata stamens added a splash of colour to the forest floor while an array of forest birds treated us with their presence, including Tieke, Mohua, Robins, Pied Shags, Kakariki and Kaka. The 70 plus Kakapo on the island remained hidden.

The rest of the team Zodiac cruised among the Many Islands and Seal Islands observing a good variety of wildlife including Fur Seal pups, Mollymawks, Petrels and Prions. Tieke and Mohua were heard calling from the shore. Taking advantage of the calm conditions the Zodiacs headed around the southern end of the island to meet up with the ship off Kuta Beach. Some gentle oceanic swells made the circumnavigation an exhilarating trip. Once at Kuta Beach it was time to meet up with the long walkers.

All aboard we gathered in the bar for a recap of the day's events from Chris and some sharing of highlights from the guests. Then it was another great meal as we began to steam up Acheron Passage and then on to Doubtful Sound/Patea. With a beautiful evening lighting many of the team gathered on the bow and took golden photos of each other and enjoyed the warmth and spectacular sunset of our first day of 2021.

Day 4: Saturday 2 January 2021
Doubtful Sound/Patea

After a smooth night voyage up the coast between Dusky and Doubtful Sounds, daylight saw us anchored off Blanket Bay in Doubtful Sound. With a usual hearty breakfast under our belts, the walkers among us were dropped off by Zodiac at Grono Bay on Secretary Island. Kaka were noisily present as we had an explanation from Lindsay about the conservation significance of this island (rodent free, deer eradicated, significant security site for threatened species), the group then headed off with Matt and Lindsay walking through mossy forest to the Gut Hut.

Meanwhile, Chris, Konrad, Mo and Kosta had taken the rest of the team on an exploratory Zodiac safari around Bauza Island, a pair of Tawaki (Fiordland Crested Penguins) greeted the boats on Shelter Islands. After some more nourishing nosh for lunch from our talented chefs, it was then time to relocate around to Thomson Sound where the Zodiacs were redeployed.

Taking advantage of a high tide we were able to travel a distance up Pandora Stream, treated to gin clear water and flowering rata along the banks. Stopping for a leg stretch at the upper navigable limit of the river, Mo Turnbull our expert geologist gave us a great rundown of the geology of the area. Onwards in the Zodiacs to Neck Cove, we split into a geologising, botanising and walking group, the latter checked a stoat trap line during a couple of hours hill work.

Particularly bitey sandflies near the coast ensured that afternoon tea on the boat was not missed. A tasty dinner was enjoyed at anchor in Thomson Sound and most were asleep by the time the anchor was weighed at 0100 as we turned north for Milford Sound.

Day 5: Sunday 3 January 2021
Milford Sound/Piopiotahi

Many of us enjoyed a great night's sleep as we cruised north in seas that were exceptionally calm for this part of the world. After breakfast it was up to the bridge or on to the forward deck for a spectacular entrance into Milford Sound. The water was oily calm, the dramatic fiord landscape was enhanced with moody wisps of mist and Mo's great commentary on the way in improved our understanding of the area's geology. The Spirit of Enderby hove to off Harrisons Cove, providing an opportunity for Mo to present a captivating lecture on how he worked with a team to map the Fiordland geology over an 18-year period, am amazing project in challenging terrain that significantly informed our understanding of Fiordland.

After collecting a packed lunch, the day was enjoyably spent exploring Milford Fiord by Zodiac, admiring the lush vegetation clinging to the precipitous walls of the fiord and sneaking past a couple of Fur Seal pups, plus visiting the Milford Sound Discovery Centre and Underwater Observatory provided a glimpse of the diversity of marine life beneath the surface and, for many, it was the first close up viewing of live black coral.

Mid afternoon it was time to leave Milford Sound, the cloud teased us with almost glimpses of Mitre Peak, but ultimately it remained hidden as Captain Pruss gave us a smooth slow journey up the sound. For those that were able to leave the view, there was an opportunity to buy gifts and souvenirs from the Sea Shop. With the seas still being kindly it was timely to join Matt Jones downstairs for a very enjoyable lecture on Rakiura/Stewart Island and its wildlife, well-illustrated with Matt's stunning photos and information about the local species.

After an occasional few spits of rain it was time to head south for Dusky Sound/Tamatea in clearing evening skies and yet more calm seas.

Day 6: Monday 4 January 2021
Dusky Sound/Tamatea

After another incredibly smooth sail south, we were off Five Fingers Peninsula, Resolution Island by daylight.

Skies were overcast but clearing, and with a high cloud base conditions were great for the planned helicopter exploration of Dusky. Breakfast was enjoyed while entering the southern end of Dusky, later anchoring in Cascade Inlet. From there it was into the Zodiacs to visit Astronomer's Point and Pickersgill Harbour, with discussions about the significant history of this site. With the sea continuing to be glassy smooth we were able to explore the nooks and crannies of southern Indian Island, then it was on to the iconic northern point of Indian Island where Cook met his first tangata whenua family in Dusky Sound/Tamatea. A quick diversion to islets off Long Island to watch Fur Seal pups playing then it was back to the boat with a short pause to admire Cascade Falls.

For those taking the Dusky helicopter flight it was a short Zodiac ride to the Cascade barge/helipad then on to the Southern Lakes Squirrel helicopter for a stunning aerial perspective of Dusky Sound/Tamatea. Smiling faces on the returnees said it all. Steaming past Anchor Island en route for Pigeon Island we were treated to an escort of Bottle-nosed Dolphins, part of a pod that is resident in the Sound. Unusually, a smaller Dusky Dolphin and its calf accompanied them.

The final landing for the trip was on Pigeon Island, where we shared the story of New Zealand's first wildlife Ranger, Richard Henry, who spent 14 years living here. Checking out the remains of his house chimney and Kakapo/Kiwi holding pens we were welcomed by a robin and listened to Tieke calling above us. The presence of these relocated species thriving in a predator-free environment was a fitting salute to Richard Henry's conservation work. A final Zodiac cruise to Facile Harbour to visit the site of New Zealand's first shipwreck the Endeavour (not Cook's Endeavour), a quiet circuit of the harbour enjoying the fading glory of the flowering rata nestled among the diverse podocarp/beech mix forest then it was time to re-join the Spirit of Enderby to set sail for Bluff.

Once on board it was down to the lecture theatre for one last time where Chris gave a great recap of the voyage, followed by a slide presentation complied by Mo and Konrad from staff photos. Another delicious meal was enjoyed in continuing smooth seas as we cruised down the Fiordland coast bound for Bluff.

All agreed that the expedition was exceptional in terms of great company, brilliant weather, awesome experiences and friendships made. As the light faded our ship rounded Puysegur Point and was abeam Big River. Phones began pinging, signalling the return to another reality.

Day 7: Tuesday 5 January 2021
Bluff

After final breakfast together at 0700, it was time for farewells and boarding the bus. A fantastic voyage with a wealth of shared experiences, memories and new friendships.